Change Oil Or Just Keep Topping Off? 300,000 Mile Toyota Oil Analysis
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- How far can you drive without an oil change in a car that burns oil?
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Oil analysis video Part 1: • Are You Changing Oil T...
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I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. The creator of this content assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. I recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not the creator of this content.
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Check out my other oil analysis videos:
Part 1 - BMW 5k, 7.5k, 10k comparison: th-cam.com/video/z1ZJJyfph4M/w-d-xo.html
Part 2 - BMW Two Year Oil comparison: th-cam.com/video/7hJU112oUg8/w-d-xo.html
Part 3 - 300k mile Toyota Yaris Oil Analysis: th-cam.com/video/caBVbGYHB4k/w-d-xo.html
Part 4 - 208k mile Jeep Grand Cherokee Oil Analysis: th-cam.com/video/4HWGCX9sWpw/w-d-xo.html
Part 5 - 10 years without an oil change - Jeep Transfer Case: th-cam.com/video/Oz1qMKvgpFk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NP0_otOTcWy_WHrd
Part 6 - Change the Oil or Keep Topping Off? Yaris Oil Analysis Part 2: th-cam.com/video/Pgw8NsaMB34/w-d-xo.html
I have an 09 Prius with the 1.5 and around 100k miles it used to burn 1 quart every 1500 miles with 5k miles OCI. I started changing my oil at 3k miles using Kirkland 5w-30 and today it burns half a quart at 3k miles. I really believe the shorter OCI helped clean things up a little. My Prius has 184k. I change the oil myself for under $20 with OEM filter. If there’s a Costco near you the oil goes on sale $30 for two 5 quart jugs. That’s $3 a quart for full synthetic Perfect for an oil burner. Very informative video by the way
Thank you. I may try this!
I am being honest. You are such an underrated youtuber and such a hardworking man. May God bless you and give you success in life brother.
Thank you so much!
Amaaaazing video! I have asked myself this question for years and never found a clear answer. Thank you!!! Please continue doing this!
Thank you. I will see how far we can go with this.
I do agree with you about filling up the oil filter first before installing it back on the vehicle that I owned at the time
You’re like the Bill Nye of cars. You’ve got a new fan for your channel
Haha thank you
I have a 2000 Toyota Echo - known as Yaris is other market with 285.000kms and it's been burning oil for as long as I've had it (100.000kms).
In my own experience going from 5w-30 to 5w-40 has helped reduced oil consumption - down to 1L every 5k kms.
I'm surprised by the lab conclusion that the oil leak is from the valve stem seal. A dry then wet compression test will show if it's instead a piston ring issue.
Great video. I had a corolla with similar issue and changed at 10000 miles. No issues but car had 200k miles. Defo try 7 or 8k miles or 10k with filter change at 5k.
Satisfying,high quality content.
This oil is on the thinner side of 5W30 oils, with cinematic viscosity 10mm^2/s at 100Celcius, right in spec for Toyota, but for your tired engine maybe you should try a thicker 5W30 with cinematic viscosity at arround 12mm^2/s, high flash point and low Noack evaporation loss, in order to top up less frequent.
I will look into this more. Was thinking of trying 5w40.
1. Thank you and I appreciate your sharing your experience.
2. My driving is probably less than 300 miles a month in retirement except for the visit to a relative about every 4 months. I drive a 2004 Toyota. No oil leaks. Type of driving? To the liquor store or super market.
3. The family has had 3 other units of the same generation of Toyota and each of them lasted more than 250,000 miles because they weren't doing the 10,000 mile oil changes and were not using synthetics.
4. The sales tax/increased registration fees, the additional types of insurance required on a newly acquired and financed car should enter into the consideration of the frequency of the oil changes.
If a person goes from long commutes to short hops all of a sudden, the oil analysis done last year or two years ago will, of course, become questionable as a future guide.
Just for kicks, I looked up the cost in 2015 of replacing valve seals on a Yaris. Yikes! It would be time to send it to the junk yard. With 300,000 miles and the cost of repairs, what would I do? Exactly what I did years ago in Palm Springs, Ca in the summer when the car gave up the ghost. Caught a ride back to Los Angeles. Donated the car to charity and met the charity tow service the next weekend. I drove my back up car. Make sure you either have a backup car or AAA extended towing.
The valve seals don't look too difficult to replace at home but requires a tool that costs about $100. I'll be doing them soon. Thanks for the comment!
Interesting video! My tip for your Toyota is to use RVS. I have used it in over 20 cars. Oilconsumtion will disapear and the engine will run super smooth. Read more online. This is not an ad! Keep making great videos! Science is nice!
/Volvo and BMW driver from Sweden.
I hadn't heard of RVS but will look into it more. Thank you!
What is rvs?
My family has had several Prius models: a 2006, 2009, 2011, 2012 plug in, and a 2016. One thing I have learned about both the Prius 1.5L (which is the same motor as the Yaris) and the 1.8L and the 2.4L Camry my son has is that oil consumption in these models is usually due to the piston oil control rings being stuck with carbon and the piston itself not having sufficient oil circulation holes in the gland that holds the oil control ring. The only way to reliably make the engine last is to change the pistons and the oil control rings. If you can't do so, then the motor should have 5,000 mile oil and filter changes to remove the carbon not seen in the oil analysis. Otherwise the oil control rings eventually freeze in place and score the cross-hatched hone of the cylinder head. If you borescope the 2&3 cylinders with the pistons down, then do the same with the 1&4 cylinders, if you can see a small black oval score mark on the cylinder walls, your motor cannot be rebuilt without a brand new short block. The score mark will continue to get bigger and the motor will use more and more oil over time. If you have no cylinder wear materials in the oil, then it's likely that any scoring has not yet occurred.
Some people have recommended I try Valvoline Protect and Restore to clear out any carbon in the rings. From what I've read, it sounds like it works pretty well but will need more frequent oil filter changes due to the carbon coming loose. Hopefully the cylinders are still in good shape, but we still suspect worn valve seals on this engine. Will be interesting to see what works. Thanks for the input!
@EndlessMoneyPits
I have also gotten an email recommendation from the certified tribologist on The Motor Oil Geek channel to use either Genuine Toyota Synthetic or try the Valvoline Restore & Protect in the factory-recommended proper viscosity per engine to remove as much piston gland/ring carbon as possible. I have seen one Ford mechanic who clogged up his filter in less than 5000 miles using the Valvoline, but I think that was an isolated case of too much sludge already built up in the motor. The Valvoline should be OK in most cars to do an oil & filter change in 5,000 miles if it's not a break-in cycle on a new motor.
Very cool. Let's see a compression test to corroborate lab results. Also, how about those fogged up headlights? I've used Mother's mag wheel polish to clear up a set on my Ford Escape. There are other methods as well. Thanks for sharing!
That's a good idea. I should have a compression test kit anyway. I'll look into trying that wheel polish on the headlights too. Thanks!
SUPERB VIDEO... I also drive a high-mileage Toyota gasoline engine.... Can I recommend using a 5W-40 fully synthetic oil for this car...
It will stop the oil consumption.
Kind regards Brian
Thank you! The 10w-30 we're running now hasn't helped much and I was thinking of trying 5w-40 next. Thanks for the recommendation.
You are more than welcome... 5W-40 sure will help with the oil consumption on your Toyota @@EndlessMoneyPits
Old engines could crave conv blend, and a viscosity upgrade. 15w 40 or 10w 30 will help seal it. A small dab of lucas oil stabilizer helps my 250,000 mile beeters!?! Imho.
Tried 10w30 but didn't help. Going to try 5w40 or 10w40 next. Lucas is an interesting idea, thanks!
Use wynns stop leak will help valve seals to reseal them, refresh them, use slightly thicker grade oil as engine is worn
Thanks, I'll look into that!
Heck yeah, a GMBN shirt! 🤘👌
Finally, a GMBN fan! I love that channel.
Never change it! For Bro Science!
Currently testing this with our Yaris that burns oil. Stay tuned.
I always wondered the same thing. Thanks for the video.
I’d love to see you try valvoline restore and protect to see if it helps the oil burning.
Interesting idea! I'll look into that.
This experiment would be more interesting if you can keep toping off oil and sample the oil every 5000 miles instead of draining it. Due to the topping off, you may find the oil analysis results become stable (steady state). If so, you would prove the point that you would never to change the oil ever.
Excellent idea! I think we will do something along those lines for a future video.
Oh come on pal. That little car owes you nothing. Fix it or let it gi
0
My son has a 2001 Corolla with 234,000 miles. It burns a quart every 1500 miles so he sets a trip meter and lets me know to check it. Recently he had gone 1650 miles without telling me. The oil was barely even touching the stick. I discovered that the Mobil 1 5W30 jug was empty. All I had was 0W20 that my Camry and RAV4 use. It was late and I didn’t want to use the 0W20 unless the Corolla was due for an oil change. I discovered that the oil hadn’t been changed in 37000 miles. Yes that’s 37 thousand miles! I regularly use oil analysis on my vehicles and etc. but have never had a sample analyzed on this car until now! I just have to know! It has used 11 quarts of make up oil in the 37000 miles! Yes it gets plenty of fresh oil but the contaminants are still there!
Interesting, I was planning to send in a sample at around 20-25k miles.
I have personally done this I only change the filter adxmprs ?18 years
Change p.c.v. often to help stop oil burning. With that much burn, clean throttle body flap often. My 2 cents
Thanks, I'll try that
It must cost you more in oil than fuel to run 😂
We're getting there...
Interesting video! The car has burned over 2qt of oil. Does the iron/aluminum in the final oil sample get reduced due to oil burning? If yes then iron become kind of too high?
I don''t know if I didn't understand the video but the title's claim wasn't really tested in this video imo.
As I undesrstand it, you just tested if adding back the oil as it burned up was good enough to keep the engine's wear withing spec.
If you had somebody else with an engine that burned no oil, and drove the same way as you send in their 5k miles sample as well then it would've tested if your engine oil that had been ''refreshed'' periodically was in better shape than theirs that had really seen the full 5k miles of wear.
Maybe it'd be interesting to run the oil until you've put back 100 % of the oil capacity back in to see if the oil is still in good shape.
Then run it until you've replenished the oil twice over without draining it to see how those samples look.
Lab said he could go 7000K between oil changes. Hope he does that and has another lab test.
Next oil test. Test oil at 8000km (current change) 15.000 km /20.000 and 30.000 km? All with the same oil. Would be interesting to see when its really time to change
@5:49 Unless it is cheaper to replace the valve seals than filling "her" up all the time.
Good point
How about not changing oil for 20 000 miles and just adding and adding new one.
Il faudra quand même changer le filtre à huile entre temps, par sécurité 😉.
That car burns more oil in one oil change interval, than that whole car is worth. And you say that this oil consumption isn't so bad??? I have VW Passat 1.9TDI with almost 650,000km (406,000miles) and it burns around 1litre (0,88qts) every 10,000km (6250miles)
That's great news. Just valve stem oil seals? I'd fix it. It'll only get worse and may cause other problems.
Yeah, it's constantly in the back of my mind. I'll probably end up doing it.
I say keep the 5000 mile interval. If oil is getting past the valve seals, or past the oil control rings, doesn't that mean more of the oil is getting burned and turned into carbon that would build up in the filter?
I believe burning a lot of oil will eventually clog the catalytic converter.
@@EndlessMoneyPits yes, both. At this mileage, it may be significantly clogged.
If it is clogged, you could consider purchasing aftermarket. They were ~$100 the last time I looked.
Don't you just love that 1NZ-FE? =)
Classic Toyota reliability
Why do you buy such expensive name brand oil Mr. Money Pit? I use supertech synthetic my self (Walmarts house brand), bout 20 bucks for 5 quarts. Considering how much you’re burning I feel like that would be a better option. Or any other cheaper synthetic for that matter.
I never considered buying the cheap stuff but in this car it would probably be fine. maybe I'll do a comparison video.
@@EndlessMoneyPits I know project farm has set up basic tests in his barn to test high end racing synthetics (royal purple, redline, and while not in the same class, mobile one) vs cheap house synthetics. They perform pretty damn similarly in just the tests that the average joe could do. I know that supertech makes a high mileage, extended protection synthetic, pretty comparable to the mobile one sku you used, while no scientific method, if you sent a cheap sample in to black stone and compared I would certainly give it a watch!
They may be a little worse performing, but for your daily driver I don’t think it matters. Hell, another good video you could do if you’re comfortable doing it, throw some cheap synthetic in your BMW, since that’s the car you redline, run it for 8k or so, and then see if it held up to the abuse as well as mobile 1 did. Cheers Mr. Moneypit. Your oil change series have been very entertaining.
I'll put some thought into this. Thanks!
Okay what, every 8000km for an oil change is insane. I thought 15000 km was early damn.
NO... Synthetic engine oil is only good for a maximum of 12,000 KM (7,500 Miles) the additives in the oil "break down once you go over this ... I drive a gasoline/petrol engine Toyota that has done over 360,000 KM (224,000 Miles) The reason it has lasted this long because the oil has been changed every 12,000 KM (7,500 Miles) since the car was brand new.
The engine on my car is still like a Swiss watch.
Please take no notice of the BS that engine oil can last 20,000 Miles (32,000 KM) no it can NOT!
Kind regards Brian
So is it okay to keep topping up oil and not change oil after 5k? Or change oil every 5k miles regardless?
At least 5k seems fine for this car. I will try 7,500 miles next and if the lab says to go further, I will.
5:08 Why did the lab say 10w30 when you used 5w30!? 🤷🏻♂️
Because I switched to 10w30 when I changed the oil.
AT205 reseal according to Scotty K & Project Farm …
Yes, I will be trying that soon. Thank you!
6:44 ..... if the piston rings are still doing their job, then where is the oil being lost?
Oil from the cylinder head is entering the combustion chamber through worn valve seals.
@@EndlessMoneyPits thanks so much for the reply 🙏
Is there such a thing as replacing these valve seals?
Yeah, it can be done at home but I haven't done them because it is A LOT of work. Maybe I'll do them eventually...
man, if replacing the valve seals is somthing you can do then do it, i say you even make a video out of it.
Yes, I've decided to do it. Need to buy some tools and seals but can't afford them yet.
Do the valve seals…it’s a 1.5 L Toyota and will run forever.
I probably will
Stop filling oil filters. It takes less than half a second to fill it.
For the pump to fill it, I meant.
Yaris is a good car.
Simple, practical, and reliable.
valve seals yeeep😂😂😂
Burns a mL per km lol