With a "little twist". Off-topic : I use the SS 15w40 in air cooled engines like pressure washers, a Honda HRH mower. The high hths and low noack and overall quality is superior. Zero chance of overheating during hot summer. Stays in grade no matter. Excellent compression. Etc.
Mechanical Engineer here...This is ONE of the BEST simplified explanations of oil's influence on engine clearances I've seen yet. Your ability to convey advanced concepts at a digestible level is a marvel. It's the secret that makes some teachers great. Keep up the great work, good Sir! Subscribed!
I appreciate the kind words. I am an Engineer myself, but I also speak redneck 😉 I enjoy breaking it down to laymen's terms. It forces me to master (or at least attempt to master) the topic. Thanks for the sub! 👍
I am also an engineer and a redneck. Knowledge is the most important thing we can pass on. Like your Dillon equipment in the background. Love your flag. Thank you.
Oil still brakes down and thins out, this would not be a good idea, and the engine is naturally going to burn off some oil, atleast a quart in 3000 miles. Definitely wouldn't try this.
I'm an avid Amsoil user and use an fs2500 oil bypass, which is far better than the amsoil bypass. These are really only good for eeeexxxtended drains. Good video though
An old mechanic once told me that “oil is cheap”. What he meant by that is that in the scheme of things, when it comes to spending money on vehicle maintenance, even good quality oil is one of the cheaper things you’ll put towards the maintenance costs. I’ve always remembered this and generally over-change the oil and filters as cheap insurance against wear and failure.
Maintenance Reliability Tech here, although my experience is mostly heavy industrial machinery and not engines. I'm usually measuring oil in gallons, with our biggest sump holding 6000 gallons. This video was AWESOME. Right to the point, with minimal fuss but still some quick humor. VERY well explained for a rather technical subject. You gained an enthusiastic subscriber!
Another tip for seeing cleanliness of oil. Get yourself some blank business card stock. They are the perfect size. Take a small oil sample, use an eye dropper and place 2 drops of oil in the center of the card. Let it sit for 5-6 hours. The oil will disperse showing particulates. Shine a light from back to enhance the inmage. I use a small black light, similar to what they use for detecting AC refrigerant. It will show fuel dilution as a light ring around the outer edge. Ive using this for years. In the oil testing arena, its called radial chromatography.
If you wanna see even weirder stuff, do the same test with an electrical field through a gel carrier material. This is called electrophoresis and normally used in biology, though I wonder what it would do with engine oil!
@big0bad0brad can you provide more details. Just watched a video how oil filters and oil has changed so much that electrical conductivity and free ions are factors in performance.
I never realised that learning about engines, and lubrication systems and the effects of contaminants could be so fun and addictive. A real education, even for seasoned drivers and mechanics, thank you.
I had that bypass system on my Dodge / Cummins! (Changed oil every 25k), Main filter every 6k, bypass every 12k. Used AMSOIL 15-40, ( just kept adding fresh oil as needed) After 300k miles took the valve cover off and the engine LOOKED LIKE NEW YET! do it! Your engine will THANK YOU!
My 300K mile Cummins changes it's own oil every 12 tanks of fuel. One quart per tank. And I bought it that way, wasn't my maintenance that caused the oil consumption.
Simply going by visual oil cleanliness is so stupid I can't even comprehend it. The appearance of the old is only variable. There are addives(molecules) that break down in the oil when exposed to heat. The look of the oil cannot indicate this. If u are getting sample analysis, ok maybe I would take it back, but still.
Instead of just one oil change, you now do a bunch of different oil changes and cleanings. Plus we bought and installed some kind of device. I am very happy for the managers who sold all this to people.
@@Roboticpycoticnot to mention that oil also becomes acidic over time and will eat your engine when the base oil pack is used up. You have to test the oil to see if you can till run it. Just because it looks clean doesn’t mean it’s good.
I installed a Caterpillar Bypass Filter system on my 1981 GMC Gasoline 305 V8 back when I worked at Empire Cat Dealership in Tucson, Arizona my oil stayed looking clean & I changed the oil every year after that..I was very fortunate to buy my system very cheap back then & the filters were pennies on the dollar for me to buy
So you put this junk in your car for what then? you change your oil anyway at 1 year mark... I have a saying , when nothing is bothering you , put a pebble in your shoe , people are great at finding problems that dont exist.
Filters that dont clean oil do exist. They sell you a filter that doesnt clean oil and tell you to come back and they will drain your dirty oil then sell you another filter that doesnt clean oil.There are all kinds of debates about which of the filters that dont clean oil is the best. Not much interest in filters that actually clean oil.
I installed this system on a 19995 Dodge/Cummins and drove 155,000 Miles over 10 years, and NEVER drained the oil! I only changed the filters 3 times and did "OIL ANALYSIS" to determine the condition of the wear in the engine, and also the serviceability of the oil. Thanks for putting this video out on you tube, as it was very well done, as well as the appellant information on wear particles
I appreciate it. I’m just trying to educate and entertain folks. Getting a lot of flack from people thinking I’m trying to sell them something though. Or people that think they know more than I do about the topic, because they watched a Castrol GTX commercial when than were 7 years old. Never realized how many lubrication experts there were in the internet until I posted this video 😂
what if you made a fitting to fit the pan drain plug hole that could both drain and draw (tube inside a tube) and used an electric pump instead of joining into the existing oil filter system?@@freedomworx
@georgefeyen8759 the simplest meat of is to draw from a pressure port and return to the oil fill cap that has a fitting in it. That’s what the majority or aftermarket systems do.
I recommend TestOil for oil analysis. I used Amsoil contracted lab, Polaris for many years. Testoil gives you a sample pump and all the tubing, bottles, mailers, you want for free. No more laying on your back, we know how much you enjoy that. They include ISO particle count, and Analytical Ferrography. Same day turn around in most. cases.
I’ll look them up 👍. I’m definitely not going through Amsoil, not independent enough for folks. Even though this video isn’t sponsored in any way by them 👍
@JT-qf4it setup an account, once you do this you can request all the test kits you want for free. You pay for each test, as it is processed. Mine comes to $42 per test.
@@freedomworx I used Amsoil (AND Blackstone) for some of their MTF. They were honest with their results, despite the fluid actually doing damage to the tranny. (It wasn't designed for limited slip) But getting Amsoil the company to take responsibility was another matter entirely. Very disappointed.
Amsoil filters arent good enough and are too expensive. My wife asked me if I tuned up the old beetle. She didnt need to shift on the small hill going into town. I had just put Amsoil gear oil in it. Because of that I put Amsoil in the new 84 Subaru 5 speed. It didnt get drained in over 300.000 miles. Dont know what they have now.
This is the most informative video on engine wear and components I’ve seen to date. Had no idea the oil determined how the bearing placement. I can understand now how abrasion etc can cause engine damage.
Not saying thst this is a bad product but Even if it works as good as 0:12 you say the cleaning detergents that are in the oil break down over time and under prolonged heat exposure and t g e viscosity changes. You still need to change the oil from time to time to keep your motor running in top shape.
I agree generally. I was doing oil changes every 3 months @$150 per oil change (cost of oil and filter). After installing my FS2500 bypass oil filter, I found my oil is good for about 2 years by doing regular oil testing every 6 months. Nowadays I change my oil yearly, and don't bother with oil testing anymore, however oil testing always found 0% levels of soot in the oil, which was my major concern. The oil additive package was still acceptable after 2 years, but was getting to the point of needing a change by then. So I chose to change it yearly mainly to maintain oil with a good additive package and a high total base number to combat acidity.
Actually its a matter of keeping the oil analytically clean and adding enough new makeup oil to keep the additives up. Expensive filters dont get changed often enough. Some people say yes but the expensive filters can go longer between filter changes. The better the filter and the smaller the filter the more often it needs to be changed.
Wonderful video. I ran a diesel wrecker for 4 years during my repo years. I had to change my 2 oil filters every 10 days (as in every - 3000 miles). Oil was always black from day one. Motor died when the crank shaft key walled out and broke; I was lucky to be in my yard at the time the engine went out. Engine ran great up to then with 500,000 + miles on it.
@@richardhorner298 In the past year or two, Aramco, etc. the Saudi Royal Family oil company bought Valvoline, so every time you go into one of their quick lubes, you are putting USA dollars into the pockets of the Richest Family on Earth! Think about that for a minute???
@@richardkingadi5511I was a mechanic for a re refinery. Non synthetic oil gets better every time it is refined. You don't have to deal with the highway construction materials in crude oil. At one time new Mercedes cars came with re refined oil. Goodyear sold ours in quarts. I assume a lot of synthetic oil is in it now. People wont buy it. They want the new stuff. I dont know where you can buy it now. Most of it goes to the major oil companies.
First time viewer; and now subscribed. I don’t even know what your channel is about, but your humor is spot on. Excellent! I learned a bit about bypass filtration too!
I installed that kit on my 2015 F350 Power Stroke when truck was new. One thing I didn't hear you mention is fuel dilution from cold stars & regens. That may be the limiting factor on your oil life.
I'll have to discuss that in one of the upcoming video. But what you have to realize is, the fuel evaporates out of the oil under normal operation. There is always a minute amount of fuel getting in your oil like you mentioned, but it normally evaporates out as fast as it contaminates the oil. That's why a very small amount of fuel dilution is acceptable and normal when you do a used oil analysis. If it gets above that low threshold, it indicates abnormal in-leakage from a worn or failed component.
Ditto for the additive package. The oil is going to "wear out." I used one of these in my car years ago - having the oil tested every year. I was using AMSOIL's best oil. It appreared that I could get one more year of use from my oil and no more. AMSOIL re-iterated in no uncertain words that I must change my oil at 20,000 miles or less.
I'd say heat, friction, and time will cause degradation of the oil and especially the additives as well. I can see it work for high mileage driving to lengthen oil change intervals though.
Don’t try extended oil changes on a HUEI injection system like the ford 6 liter, even if you have bypass oil filtration. The high pressure oil system, which runs at thousands of pounds of pressure, will shear the oil (cut the viscosity) in short order. This is because most Diesel and automotive oil is not hydraulic rated, and not designed to run at such a high pressure. I have the 6 liter, and Amsoil bypass filtration. I tried to go 10,000. Miles instead of the factory recommended interval of 7500. I had problems with low boost codes, and injector stiction. Now I use Schaefer’s 0TR plus 5/40, and two shots of Revex, and change it every 3000 miles. I change the bypass cartridge every other oil change. Maintenance is cheap compared to engine failure.
Love your humor, knowledge, and easygoing, yet clear and concise way of communicating otherwise mundane technical specs to an average Joe like me in a manner that doesn't send me straight into REM sleep...
Read an article in motorcycle magazine many years ago regarding the quality of synthetic oil. This shop had a shop truck with 100,000 miles and never changed engine oil which was initially filled with Mobil 1 when new. They sent off OA and found that oil still retained virtually original specs as new oil. Synthetic oil doesn't break down and lose its properties like Pretoleum based oils. Filter out the contaminates and you're good to go!
I read that synthetic oils offer superior protection and cleaning at the cost of shorter maintenance intervals. This was supposedly due to the detergents in the synthetic oil, causing better carbon build up mitigation, but becoming oversaturated with acidic particles and carbon far more quickly, causing the oils viscosity to degrade. For context the piece I read was in reference to rotary engines specifically as the rotary requires conventional oil in order to burn it in the combustion chamber. The piece was in reference to the benefits of separating the oil used for burning, from the oil used for lubrication, allowing you to run a more efficient and clean burning oil in the combustion chamber, and a superior synthetic oil for lubrication. I know that rotary engines require shorter maintenance intervals anyway, however surely it would not matter which engine is the subject, if synthetic oils require more regular changes.
I was talking about a Detroit series 60 in a Peterbilt truck with over 1 million miles with virtually no engine wear and only 1 oil change using Shell Rotella conventional 15 40 and a Big Gulf Coast 02. At the time it used 2 rolls of Bounty big roll paper towels. Road King magazine asked me for the truck owners phone number. Road king did an article on it. They said the amount of makeup oil added at filter changes was equal to a full oil change every 40 K. The towels were changed every 10 K. The full flow filters were changed every 50 K. Oil analysis showed that was more filter changes than necessary.
Was talking about my 84 Subaru with over 250 K with no oil drains. Using Mobil 1 15 50 and a Frantz oil cleaner with a Frantz adapter that replaced the full flow filter. A Caterpillar lab manager saw my posts and sent me a sample kit. He said the oil looks good but recommended I change the Frantz every 6 K instead of every 12 K. Been doing 6 K since. The 06 Pontiac Torrent uses a Australian Jackmaster Classic with Walmart Super Tech. Im a filter guy not a oil guy. The top loaders are the easiest to service. The Caterpillar lab manager was concerned the Subaru wasnt getting enough new motor oil. It didnt use oil between filter changes. The 93 Legacy is another good one.
Filters that clean oil have been around longer than synthetic oil. We changed the filters more often and used single weight oil In 1963 Delo 30W and 20W was 29cents a quart in the discount stores. Couldnt use multi grades in a diesel if you wanted to keep the warranty.
I'm very happy that I stumbled upon this! Your delivery is wonderful and I really enjoy the little jokes! I ran that exact bypass kit on a few cars (2 Toyotas and 1 Subaru), and it was absolute overkill. The first car, a 1989 Camry, had 1200 miles on the oil when I installed a bypass kit. Within 90 miles, the oil looked nearly new! Starting was easier, idling was smoother, acceleration was noticeably quicker as well! We'll call this a win. The second car was a 1986 Mr2. Standard 4 cylinder. It was the same result - the oil went from death black to nearly new in appearance in less than 100 miles. At the time I was not doing UOAs, so I cannot give you factual data to backup any claim by any manufacturer. I will say, anecdotally, I would absolutely run a bypass kit on every vehicle if I could, as the health of the engine (longevity) means more to me than the money & time spent buying and installing the kit. The third was a 2006 Subaru Impreza. Just like before, death black oil turned nearly new in appearance. I started to do UOA on this car, and the results were very, very good. I started with 5000 miles (factory calls for 3750 miles), then 7500 miles, then 10,000 miles... And finally... 12,000 miles. Blackstone said I could run the oil longer... Longer than 12,000 miles... That is how clean the oil was, not NEW clean, but clean enough... You get the point. I changed the oil at 12,000 miles, as that was 1 year on that oil. To put it lightly, I was beyond impressed with the results. Sadly, my Subaru had to go to the shop to replaced a turbo that was allowing oil past the seals. The shop took the kit off and asked me "wtf is this contraption!?" I detailed it, and they said "that is absolutely overkill. btw - your engine is the cleanest engine we've ever seen." At that time, that engine had around 75,000 miles on it, and the shop knew the mileage of the engine as well. I did notice a very slight increase in fuel economy as well, 1-2mpg on average, which is not a massive amount, but does add up over time... and turbo Subarus absolutely need help with fuel economy. Your description of the economies of scale is spot on. The kit is expensive, and gets more expensive when you have to buy new AN fittings, hose, and Flame Guard... I was able to go 12,000 miles between oil changes with the kit though. Thank you for the laughs and being honest about your setup and results. :)
I use Amsoil SS in my 03 civic. I change filters at 10k miles and even at a final mileage of 20k when I do the oil change, the UOA comes back saying I can go longer. But I figure 20k is plenty. I just change it once a year now at 14-15k miles amd a filter half way through.
It's great that the oil looks cleaner, but without a detailed analysis of it you won't know if it still is good, or just looks good. For new oil it should help keep it cleaner for longer, but cleanliness is not the only thing oil is made for or what can go wrong with it. Honestly if these systems worked as well as people claim, they would already be in use by the manufacture. For an older car you would not need some magic oil or filters, $20-30 every whatever is recommended is far better still, even with this system in place. And no, companies are not out to get your money, an oil change is recommended and far easier for mechanics than an engine rebuild or replacement, if they wanted to really take your money, they would make engines purposely breakdown and with lemon laws in many countries that just adds to the cost that they don't want.
I e been operating a fuel barge with five Volvo D-13 engines for six years and never knew exactly what the point of the bypass filter was. Thanks for teaching me something.
Regarding the very fine soot particles found in diesel engines, I've found that the Land Rover 2.5L diesels manage to retain very clean oil thanks to the use of a novel centrifugal oil filter design - the filter spins inside its housing and seems to do a wonderful job of keeping the oil clean. Not sure how you'd replicate it in a bypass/external filter setup, but if you're chasing perfect filtration then it's something to consider.
Funny that you should mention that, I actually have a centrifuge to go on this truck. I’m going to run them simultaneously and see if the centrifuge can capture things that the bypass system does not 😎
Such a well done video. I may add one of these to my gas engine despite your good points on why one might not want to. I would imagine that when you consider improved engine performance and/or if you have a larger displacement gas engine, the investment starts to make more sense.
I use the toilet paper filters on everything including the riding mowers. Most are old when they werent so expensive. My wifes Pontiac has the Australian Jackmaster Classic. My daughter said she married you for your money. I said I married her for the Pontiac Torrent. I dont think she married me for my social security check. I change the Australian Jackmaster Classic every 6.000 miles.
In the old days they were called soot suckers lol. Im a HD mechanic and have been running Amsoil in all my vehicles since the 80's and my diesels have always had bypass filters. Oil sampling has proven how good this combination really is.
I dont have a truck nor do I have any intention to build this system anytime soon. Tell me why I watched this entire video. Man you're just great at keeping attention! Love the channel man!
This was a great and informative video. Didn’t know a bypass filter was a thing. Your analysis and delivery was complete and answered any questions that were going on in my head. Great job and happy new year.
I have used Trasko oil bypass which is a flow through and bypass filter in one and just screws onto the engine just like the original filter, and I have used Motor Guard - M30 - 1/4 NPT Sub-Micronic Compressed Air Filter with a roll of toilet paper, these have been around over 70 yrs and good to less than a micron, and I have used Gulf Coast filters for large equipment which used Bounty paper towel rolls which also good below 1 micron. A semi went over 1 million miles without wear and one oil change on this filter.
The Motor Guard on my old Ford F250 390 engine is over 50 years old. It was the best in the 60s. Frantz was suing the hell out of them. They had the compressed air filters. They dropped the lube oil filters. Most of my filters in use are Gulf Coast juniors and converted Motor Guards. My diesel tractor has a converted Motor Guard M 60 on the fuel. The best little filter still in production is the Australian Jackmaster.I have the least expensive Classic. It can handle the larger core and shorter paper.
Couldnt gravity enough diesel fuel thru the Great Value 1000 from Walmart or the Scott 1000. Went to the 2 ply Charmin ultra strong. A lot of oil filter BS now.
I wasn't planning on doing this, never even knew about this, the video just happened to be in my feed so I clicked it. I watched the whole video just because I like you my guy. AWESOME video, love the personality and the info!
I’ve been using the Amsoil By Pass system on my 1997 F-150 since I bought the the new in 1997, I then install it on my 2016 Silverado LTZ 3500 HD that I bought in 2019, the color of the oil never bothered me, I just like the fact knowing I’m doing my best. Thanks for the great video
Like your no nonsense aproach and logical truth aswell as your reloading kit at the back . We speak the same language although we are countries apart 👍🎯 tnx
I enjoy and respect this setup. I personally change my oil and filter every 3000 miles, I even use filters rated for 15k miles, but I do preventative maintenance. In my mind $40-$50 is going to save me the $500 in parts and hours of labor rebuilding my engine.
Great video, one thing you forgot in your FAQ is the reduced wear. How that SHOULD translate to longer lasting engine...which if you average out the repair...could pay for itself very quickly.
@@freedomworx , thanks. However, it's been kinda proven hasn't it? With he data from SAE and others (GM did a study as well). The most destructive particles are WELL below the 20-30 microns (at best) a GOOD (is that what most people are using? - not if they're going to a shop with a low cost oil change) full flow oil filter provides. So, the bypass would HAVE to provide less wear, hence longer life & performance.
Yes and no. The testing shows that removing those particles from the oil, reduced wear in the laboratory test conditions. But that test only accounted for the reduction from abrasive wear caused by the particles. Which is only a fraction of the wear that occurs in an actual engine operated in the real world. Most engine wear occurs during startups. Those engines didn't experience that at all. Nor did they deal with corrosion, erosion, or fatigue issue. And those engines weren't operated like a real world engine. They were fired off, heated up, and ran with contaminants introduced into the oil. So while it might have significantly reduced the wear from abrasion caused by larger particles (just say the wear reduction was 50% over a 20 micron filter), that doesn't mean you have reduced engine wear by 50%. It's only a fraction of that. That's why I say that its hard to quantify. My truck gets a lot more cold start wear than a hot shot rig. So it might significantly increase the life of a hot shot engine, but do little for mine. The benefit is proven, but the extent of that benefit varies greatly.
There were also some engines that come from the factory and the spin on filter that you might think is an awful filter but it's actually a bypass filter and there is no full flow filter
My 2002 Kia Sportage 2.0 TD have this system from factory. Obviously different design. return line of the secondary filter goes to oil pan. @@freedomworx
My early 80s Mazda diesel pickup had both a full flow filter and a bypass filter. To clean the oil I removed the bypass filter and installed a Frantz oil cleaner. Forgot to remove the Frantz before I ran the ad in the paper. Offered to put the Mazda back on. He knew about the Frantz oil cleaners. I still have the Mazda filter.
I had installed this system on my delivery van when it was brand new;I used to drive 7k kilometres per month; this system saved me from monthly oil change, after 1 year, I recovered the cost of system I paid in 2010, about $600.
a friend of mine, an Amsoil dealer, used a friend of his as a test mule. They used a Ford Focus RS that was tuned, and put a bypass kit on it. Did oil analysis every 10k miles and other than topping off what was needed it went around 80k miles on that initial change. Pretty impressive
Yes, the oil will still oxidize, all you are doing is slowing it down. But there are studies of semis going over 1,000,000 miles without needing an oil change. So it effectively eliminated the oil changes in those trucks.
There are several sources in the description of the video. Most of the extremely high mileage claims are marketing fodder for companies that make these systems. But there are several actual studies linked in the description of the. Video.
Ive used toilet paper filters for over 60 years. Ive seen a lot of changes.Frantz had filters that took 1 2 3 and 4 rolls of 2 ply toilet paper. They had a FAA approved AeroFrantz. John Frantz started in 1953 putting a Frantz canister in a larger canister that was usually optional equipment on American cars and pickups. Messy to change but very effective like all Frantz filters. A Frantz dealer in Gulfport Mississippi specialized in putting the filters on large marine engines. At some point they went out of production. He replaced them with a improved top loader toilet paper filter and large filters that used Bounty big roll paper towels. The little toilet paper filters were dropped luckily I still have a few in use. The Australian Jackmaster Classic is similar. I like it. The Frantz is a terrible design. I like toilet paper such as Great Value 1000 from Walmart. I see Ebay has Frantz elements for 10.95 18.68 shipping.
Actually all of these filters depend on keeping the oil clean and adding enough new makeup oil to keep the additive package up. I use the old truckers palm test. I put a little oil in my palm and smear it around. Dont plan on wasting money on lab analysis for my old engines. The Motor Guard oil cleaner on my old F250 390 is over 50 years old.
Love the Vid. I used to run a small trucking Co. We were running 17K+ miles per month with a 15,000 mile oil change interval so, we changed the oil 10 to 14 times per year at 11 gals. of oil per change. Times 8 trucks that is a lot of oil to purchase at $20 per gal. bypass is the way to go.
Very informative but I think I’ll just keep with my normal filter. The old 12 valve has made it half a million so far. My old man has a 24 valve he religiously changes the oil every 3-5k the oil is actually still clean looking for the first few weeks of use unlike most of us it’s black again as soon as you start it.
The old school system of allowing the oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it doesnt work for me. My oil must be analytically clean 100 percent of the time. If something happens like a leaky head gasket i will change the gasket and change the oil. If your filter isnt working get one that will.
mate this was really nicely done with some good points of view and great easy to understand comparisons that help paint a picture of the points you are trying to make. you have a very pleasant teaching style and i can see this channel doing very well for the future.
@@freedomworx keep it up bud. you've got all the makings of a top channel. the balance of humor, edumacation and redneckenes is spot on. genuinely had a good few laughs watching this. look forward to seeing more and i hope your channel grows massively because it deserves it.
@willyberg123 Cold flow depends on the brand. Amsoil’s Signature series 5w-30 has a pour point of -58 where Mobil 1, 5w-30 has a pour point of -33, so used Amsoil out runs other brands new oil.
Well done. Concise. Full of facts. Debunks myths. Too many reviews of the Amsoil system on here have ended with “Nope…my oil is still filthy dirty dark, so I deem this a scam!” with no oil analysis or any sort of scientific look at it (followed by comments being turned off). Looking forward to the oil analysis results. Subbed so I won’t miss them. 👍🏻
The oil has about 6,500 miles on it so it's about time to run an analysis. I'm also going to install a centrifuge to run in addition to the Amsoil system, to see if it captures any additional contaminants.
Nice video! Do you think the sub micron particles that don’t get filtered will build up more due to less oil changes? For example from say 10% to 20% and thus the oil that is being used would have a much higher % of sub micron particles in it? Will the lab results show this?
100 percent. I ran Amsoil to 12k miles and did analysis. Iron wear was double what it should be. Switched to Kirkland oil every 3k miles and wear dropped by 60 percent. Blackstone labs did a write up stating its not the brand of oil that matters in wear, it’s the frequency of oil changes.
@@dodgecummins6181 I would think it would be akin to a very fine polishing compound in the oil, that gets into everything. Shot gun blast vs sandblaster.
@@Vade1313 correct, that continues to accumulate the longer the oil change interval. Now I just use cheap synthetic oil at 3k vs the 7k owners manual recommends. No need for bypass or expensive oil.
@@dodgecummins6181 Same, i use synthetic and change it out. Also, a filter made for synthetic oil, filters better then a standard one. The micron size is set smaller on the filter because all the oil particles are the same in synthetic oil. Unlike conventional oil, where the filter size has to be set to the "largest" particle to keep the filter from clogging.
Thank you for the video! I am about to pick up a 2024 F350 and I am new to the wild world of coal rollers. This would certainly make the engine last a lot longer. I have a 07 RAM 5.9 Cummins 124k miles with a SunCoast stage two transmission with billet torque converter 8,400, new injectors 4,400 and mild tune at 450hp. It’s as fast as my 2020 Raptor was. If you would like another project truck. 29k OBO 😉 I picked up the RAM just a couple of months ago because the RV we ordered came in long before the new truck.
Absolutely greatest product after the dialysate filter. I work with filters and trust this product will work and save tons of money . Definitely will try it. 👌
That’s true. But you can’t just assume that the additive package will be used up faster than it is replaced by top-off oil when you change the filters. We shall see.
The reason the system works is the filters clean the oil and the new additives are replenished by new makeup oil added at filter changes. Centrifuges work but they need oil changes to replinish the additives. They dont require enough makeup oil. A big Gulf Coast filter on a large diesel truck takes 10 quarts of new makeup oil.
I have a 06 lbz, I put that same bypass setup on my truck at 500 miles. Had to make/change the bracket. I use the biggest filter Amsoil makes...for years the oil changes were $180.00 bucks. When I pulled the motor to do head studs I change to the PPE oil pan, now my truck holds 3 gallons... Thanks for the video!
Now add in a pre-lube pump to get oil pressure to the farthest bearing before you start your truck. It will reduce engine wear considerably. You see them on large diesel engines, but people don't want to wait when they get in their truck so even though they are great, they are cumbersome to use, and manufacturers don't build them in.
Yeah, that’s a little overkill for these small engines. Makes sense for large, long engines, and engines that load very quickly after starting. Like emergency diesel generators.
Man I really love the technical knowledge it also the way you try to explain it to people so that you want to learn and it’s not overly boring because sometimes this type of thing can be to the average person. I personally like this kind of stuff but for someone who doesn’t the way you are teaching them, I can see someone watching the video all the way through without skipping.
This was an amazing video. No fluff to pad things out, very good explanations, and just a touch of humor. (Sorry about the light falling on you. Those lights are heavy!)
"Are those live rounds"? "30 millimeter, full metal jacket". Seriously, nice video, it's good to see an engineer who can use tools, and I like your stress reliefs on the bracket.
I’ve only been doing this about 6 months, and I don’t post enough. Hopefully business will pick up 👍. Hard to make enough good content with a day job, wife, and kids. But I’m trying.
I have been running this exact system in my 2005 Duromax with Amsoil since new. Would love to see the internal parts condition and cleanliness. However, not willing to tear it down. Truck runs great!
I am about 4 weeks away from taking delivery of a new Chevrolet 3500 HD dually I ordered back in March and I plan on putting this system in at the first oil change!!!! Not sure it’d be ideal to do it sooner than that but I think the protection and saving would be priceless down the road!!!! Thanks for a great and informative video…. 👍🏼👍🏼
Just consider the warranty implications. If you do have a engine issue, the Dealer will almost certainly try to blame it on the modification. Thanks for watching 👍
I’ve always wanted an indicator that showed when the full flow filter bypass opened up. Filters catch smaller material as they fill up, and it would seem that peak efficiency would occur up to the point of bypass. The instructions for vehicles still show capacities for oil with and without filter change. When I first started changing oil 50 years ago I changed filters every other oil change.
Super nice idea !! But theres 2 main things to consider: 1 - adding a new filter can raise the pressure of the system, overcharging the pump... 2 - the quality and functionality of the oil cant be measured by dirt and particles removed; The oil composition changes with hi temps... by the example: cook oil becomes diesel if exposed to high temperatures by long times !! Long oil circuits can lower the oil temperature in very cold countries. This colder oil is inserted into the engine in different places, causing temperature differences where there should be homogeneity. In my humble opinion, the second filter may save some changes... but cant free you up from change oil in some future time... And still have the oil pump to worry about !!
I had a imprint that the system serialize another filter (see adapter conection) to the chain... Other filter (with the active filtering pores more thin or tights) gets high the resistence to oil pass... I worked some times ago in a system that bypass the original oil system, capturing the oil, filtering, cooling a little bit (external oil radiator; here the summer can reach 120°C on the asphalt ) and re-pump it to most upper side of motor !!
Freedomworks is correct. Bypass filters have been on engines since the 1920s. Never caused a problem. Its a problem telling people no more oil changes. People are brain washed into thinking oil is supposed to get dirty and be changed.
The oil pump pressures up the engine. To keep it from over pressuring the engine the oil pump relief valve opens and sends the excess oil back to the oil pan. The small amount of oil going to the bypass filter or the turbo is nothing. Has no effect on the oil pump. It pumps the same. If the oil pump or engine is worn out or the oil pump relief valve is stuck open thats another problem.
This video is really well done! I was a mechanic in the navy and we had lube oil strainers and centrifugal oil cleaners that we ran. The oil on a ship can last for a decade or more! then again, those don't have suit from combustion, as they're steam driven turbines and huge reduction gears. water contamination was the largest issue really. awesome stuff and funny! thanks!
i,ve run the Amsoil bypass filter kit for 200k miles on my 97 Dodge 12 valve (at 206k now) and also change my oil every 10k to 15k miles. i did oil analysis for about 5 years before i was convinced the system worked and since then i just follow the interval mentioned above.
I just found you channel off a different video where you put gear oil in your engine and man I love your videos and your humor and little comments and jokes its a great laugh keep up the great work
No offense intended... *really!*... but I am SO HAPPY to see someone else, while working on machinery, work SO HARD to keep tidy & neat... and MAKE A MESS in the process! I identify so much!! Years ago.. I basically (almost) gave up using funnels to pour liquid because I inevitably made a BIGGER mess with one than without!! You keep it real and honest... I will subscribe! 79 years old, and the only people besides myself that EVER changed my oil, was on a 2011 Toyota by the dealership that 'threatened' my warranty if I didn't let them change it for the first 20,000 miles.... :)
I had this system on my last Duramax (2015 LML) and now intend to install it on my newer Duramax (2018 L5P) it really does make a big difference and to me well worth the investment
I just wish I could get mine to stop leaking. I’ve replaced the oring that goes between the adapter and engine, and it still leaves a puddle of oil in my driveway anytime I cold start it before about 55 degrees. Not sure how something so simple keeps failing.
@@freedomworx one thing that happened to me with the system is that a crack appeared in the double filter mount, when I found that I contacted AmsOil and they sent out a replacement free of charge, I never had a spot of oil on the ground after that
So mounting the dual setup below the original oil filter location save installing the backflow preventer that would have been required if you mounted the dual setup above the original filter location, like on the inner fender. Great idea and a note to anyone installing in a higher location.
Again, very informative and entertaining video. Been kicking around the idea of putting on an oil bypass system for a while on a 5.9. Just haven’t gotten around to doing it. Great job on the editing and giving the science behind. Takes a while to film these things so I know you put a lot of work into it. Well done.
I appreciate the recognition. I wish I was good enough to put them together as fast as people think they go together. Takes a lot of time and research to provide factual information. Thanks for watching 👍
To your explanation at the beginning of the video... 1:04 min. the bypass filter should flow back to the sump... however, the adapter has an in and out lines. This means that any oil filtered by the " bypass" filter still going through the main oil passages... considering the reduction in flow on the bypass filter, It is very unlikely that 2 micron filtered oil will return back to the engine
Awesome presentation, but I have a bad and costly problem using amsoil products. Many years ago when I heard the oil promotion and the benefits that I could expected by stitching to amsoil, I did it. As soon as the oil and filter were changed, the problems started. It was a mechanical 3902 C13 cat with a history of strong performance, temp and oil pressure always great. I started, engine sounds good, oil pressure coming up, oil level was perfect and everything was normal. Before I ran one mile the oil temp started going up, out of the normal, but no vibration and the coolant started getting on high temp. So I turned around and went back to my mechanic. Long story short, after $4000.00 dollars later and a new set of bearings, i decided to never use amsoil again. But I do believe that anything that could bring down my maintenance costs, it is worth studying all the data available and taking it in consideration. Thank you for your good and honest presentation. God bless.
I don't even have a diesel and "those of you who don't speak Canadian" and the flag at 0:50 was enough for me to hit subscribe. God bless America and everyone that has pride of it in their hearts.
Great Vid - I learned allot on bypass filters! Thanks for the great vid - shows allot of setup, shots, editing, clear mic audio, super excellent! I like amsoil & now debating and calculating adding bypass. 200$ in garage door insulation is awesomeness for your tools. I did the cheapo menards and it was magical. Note: I made this low value insulation comment unasked for and with 0 knowledge of your needs, geo location, particulars of tool storage, plans, financial state, & etc. But comments help Algo I am told and I am happy to support!
The only problem i have as an oil technician is the additives. The additives that prevent oil burning and provide the correct friction coefficient between the cylinder walls and pistons are meant to burn over time. They create a sacrificial layer on the walls meant to burn so that the oil doesn’t. If you’re not changing the oil, and I’m assuming you’re not adding additives to the oil regularly, wouldn’t this result in excessive oil burn off?
There are no additives designed to reduce burning or be sacrificial burn additives. The amount of oil that burns (evaporates mostly) is a function of the density of the oil, which most people will refer to as "weight." Lighter (less dense) oils like 0W-20 will burn (evaporate) at a faster rate than a heavy oil 15W-40. But additives such as detergents, disperants, anti-wear (ZDDP generally), anti-foam, anti-oxidant, etc... Do get "used up" during the service life of the oil. They are supplemented when you change the filter and add new oil. The operating conditions will dictate if the supplamental oil is suffiecent to maintain the additive package.
A uncle once told me when he changes oil in his 59 Ford it uses a quart then doesn't use any more. When I got older I realized the crappy 10 30 oil he was using evaporated a quart soon after an oil change.
Back in the mid 80s I designed out of the blues a bypass engine oil filter and cooling system for my 1600cc 1969 Nissan. Me and a friend went from LA to NYC none stop. It was a nice looking station wagon, it had a 20 inch gold &silver Enkei rims, modified suspension, water cooling modified system and a lot of things that back then only car lovers can do. Now @60 years I still do some work on all kinds of motor vehicles. All the new ones are trash. Thanks for your video. You do great work. Kind regards from Bogota Colombia South America. I Apologize for my grammar.
This is *REAL*!!! I had one on my Honda Civic and it WORKS! Going to try to add this to my MEP-002 generator. TOUGH part though is finding a GOOD AND TRUSTED lab. Also not the easiest to do it the old school way (best) which is to put a T in the oil sensor to put the supply to the bypass which used to go back into the head via the Oil fill cap.
I wonder how effective are ctrifugal filters? I like the idea of just being able to clean it out at sevice time, rather than an expensive filter change,,,
You’re in luck, because I have one to go on the truck. I’m going to run the centrifuge and Amsoil kit simultaneously to see if the centrifuge actually performs better than the filters. Stay tuned 👍
On a diesel truck, it probably won't matter, but I am curious how this would affect the oil pump on a smaller gas engine due to the increased resistance of the smaller sized mesh in the bypass. Mainly to improve turbo life on small-displacement engines. Excellent video - masterful explanation of concepts!
It doesn't affect the oil pump, pressure, or flow. I mean technically it does affect the flow to a small degree, because you are diverting a small amount through the by[ass filter, but not enough for your engine to notice. But because it's a bypass route, it isn't causing a restriction to your oil pump. If you used a 2 micron filter only, that ould be a problem. Definite flow restriction. Thanks for watching 👍
I'm glad you film your work. Alot of other TH-cam "mechanics" say I did the work and not film it. How do you know if they did it themself or if someone else did it? I just don't trust those TH-camrs and I rarely watch their videos all the way through to the end. I don't watch any more of their videos either. I am going to subscribe to your channel because you have great meaningful and informative content.
Serious question- How do you change the filters without dumping a bunch of the old oil? Won't you have to replace all the oil lost in the filter swap? Won't the loss/replacement of oil in a way affect the testing by "spilling" some of the resident contaminents and replacing with fresh oil and additives? I suppose you can catch all the old oil and funnel it back into the engine, but then you run the risk of contaminating the spilt oil with it coming in contact with the outside of the oil filter, right?
It’s a good question. You definitely loose a couple quarts when you swap filters, but that doesn’t affect the testing. All of the oil will have the same chemical and contaminant composition, regardless of whether it’s in the filter or the sump. It’s actually a good thing that you lose that oil, because you are helping to replenish the additive package when you add new oil to replace the old oil.
I have this bypass filter on my 2006 Cummins and always wondered if the the filtration was working tho my oil is still black as ink. You answered this for me. Thnx so much a great work!
Thank-you for saying 'deppot' rather than 'deeepot'. Yeah, Canadian here but most Canadians now say 'deeepot' since the Home Despot came to Canada 30 plus years ago. I like your channel BTW
Most diesel trucks do turn dark due to soot , I have an 01 Cummins HO engine that has just stock filter and the oil has never been black ever. That’s a fact, and I changed oil as recommended Every 7,500 miles.
@@freedomworx it is I’m just glad it don’t write checks it’s ass can’t cash. Figure your shit out don’t bring your smart ass this way it won’t work out well for ya!
I worked for a company that used Detroit 2 cycle engines and Cummins. One Caterpillar engine. Some engines took longer for the oil to get black. I hear that a lot. The oil in my Cummins never gets black. No shit Dick Tracy. You change the oil before it gets black.
@@ralphwood8818 You I’m sure you didn’t call me dick Tracy right? Look man not very many diesels oil that doesn’t turn black as soon as you dump it in. Due to the suit from unturned fuel. So Sherlock freaking Holmes, get educated boy.
I like the way you dumbed it down for the average Joe and still got the point across, well done. The only comment I may object to is the 30 dollar oil change, I do my own and oil and filter cost $65 plus tax on sale. If you have the time I would like to see a chart on different oils for cost and quality. Thanks.
5 quarts of Wal-mart flavored 5W-20 Synthetic and a factory Honda filter for my minivan is under $30. Oil and a filter for my diesel engines is about $90-$100. That’s 15 quarts of synthetic 15W-40 diesel oil and a premium aftermarket filter. 👍
In Australia this makes sense. Here for the 2.3Litre diesel van, I pay $200 USD per change. Why cost of shipping parts from over seas and high labour rate. No $25 oil changes here
I had to pay about 50 bucks US shipping from Australia for my Jackmaster Classic. Well worth it. I guess the Australian Jackmaster filter company was in the jack making business at one time.
its like watching vice grip garage and project farm at the same time
If I could just get all their subs 😂
@@freedomworx
A guy just added a sub 👍
With a "little twist".
Off-topic : I use the SS 15w40 in air cooled engines like pressure washers, a Honda HRH mower. The high hths and low noack and overall quality is superior. Zero chance of overheating during hot summer. Stays in grade no matter. Excellent compression. Etc.
Thank You 🙏
I know lots of folks use Rotella T6 in everything. I know that I have 👍
Mechanical Engineer here...This is ONE of the BEST simplified explanations of oil's influence on engine clearances I've seen yet. Your ability to convey advanced concepts at a digestible level is a marvel. It's the secret that makes some teachers great. Keep up the great work, good Sir! Subscribed!
I appreciate the kind words. I am an Engineer myself, but I also speak redneck 😉 I enjoy breaking it down to laymen's terms. It forces me to master (or at least attempt to master) the topic. Thanks for the sub! 👍
I am also an engineer and a redneck. Knowledge is the most important thing we can pass on.
Like your Dillon equipment in the background.
Love your flag. Thank you.
Oil still brakes down and thins out, this would not be a good idea, and the engine is naturally going to burn off some oil, atleast a quart in 3000 miles. Definitely wouldn't try this.
@@bd9856I agree 👍
I'm an avid Amsoil user and use an fs2500 oil bypass, which is far better than the amsoil bypass. These are really only good for eeeexxxtended drains. Good video though
Its so cool Bert Kreischer can take time away from his comedy to teach us about bypass oil filters. Your the best!
I’m the younger brother. Burnt Chrysler 🤓
He went from being the machine, to working on the machine
Bert is a big toddler don't insult this nice man like that.
cmon man he just likes oil alot, you don't have to insult him like that
@@freedomworx Burnt Chrysler 😆
An old mechanic once told me that “oil is cheap”. What he meant by that is that in the scheme of things, when it comes to spending money on vehicle maintenance, even good quality oil is one of the cheaper things you’ll put towards the maintenance costs. I’ve always remembered this and generally over-change the oil and filters as cheap insurance against wear and failure.
You're killing the dinosaurs!!! I'm just doing my part to save them 😉
Oil was cheap. It isn't anymore.
The oil in my truck is literally cleaner than the oil in the bottle 😉
@barrys.2447 Well my cars and trucks have been out of warranty for 30 years or more. So I guess I'll be fine.
@@wolfkin73still cheaper than an engine! It’ll always be that way! oil prices go up and so do mechanical components and running a workshop!
Maintenance Reliability Tech here, although my experience is mostly heavy industrial machinery and not engines.
I'm usually measuring oil in gallons, with our biggest sump holding 6000 gallons.
This video was AWESOME.
Right to the point, with minimal fuss but still some quick humor.
VERY well explained for a rather technical subject.
You gained an enthusiastic subscriber!
I appreciate the support 👍
Another tip for seeing cleanliness of oil. Get yourself some blank business card stock. They are the perfect size. Take a small oil sample, use an eye dropper and place 2 drops of oil in the center of the card. Let it sit for 5-6 hours. The oil will disperse showing particulates. Shine a light from back to enhance the inmage. I use a small black light, similar to what they use for detecting AC refrigerant. It will show fuel dilution as a light ring around the outer edge. Ive using this for years. In the oil testing arena, its called radial chromatography.
Thanks for the tip 👍
I wanna see a video of this
If you wanna see even weirder stuff, do the same test with an electrical field through a gel carrier material. This is called electrophoresis and normally used in biology, though I wonder what it would do with engine oil!
@motlatsimolefe1077 I have Facebook group that I have posted details and images. GMC Terrain & Chevy Equinox Care & Maintenance
@big0bad0brad can you provide more details. Just watched a video how oil filters and oil has changed so much that electrical conductivity and free ions are factors in performance.
I never realised that learning about engines, and lubrication systems and the effects of contaminants could be so fun and addictive.
A real education, even for seasoned drivers and mechanics, thank you.
I’m glad you enjoyed it 👍🤓
love your sense of humor. amsoil once made a 100,000 mile oil filter which filtered to 0 micros. my local amsoil dealer had one on his chevy van.
Interesting. Thanks for watching 👍
Wouldn't that filter out the additive package suspended in oil?
@@Ton0987at that point I’d figure it’s gonna filter out the oil itself. 😂
Filtered to zero micros... That would basically mean that it sealed off the system
Nobody here got the joke.
Distilling technical information and infusing it with good humour makes your videos fun to watch. God bless you. Loved it . Cheers.
I’m glad you enjoyed it 👍
I had that bypass system on my Dodge / Cummins! (Changed oil every 25k), Main filter every 6k, bypass every 12k. Used AMSOIL 15-40, ( just kept adding fresh oil as needed) After 300k miles took the valve cover off and the engine LOOKED LIKE NEW YET! do it! Your engine will THANK YOU!
My 300K mile Cummins changes it's own oil every 12 tanks of fuel. One quart per tank. And I bought it that way, wasn't my maintenance that caused the oil consumption.
Simply going by visual oil cleanliness is so stupid I can't even comprehend it. The appearance of the old is only variable. There are addives(molecules) that break down in the oil when exposed to heat. The look of the oil cannot indicate this. If u are getting sample analysis, ok maybe I would take it back, but still.
Stupid is a pretty strong word 😉
Instead of just one oil change, you now do a bunch of different oil changes and cleanings. Plus we bought and installed some kind of device. I am very happy for the managers who sold all this to people.
@@Roboticpycoticnot to mention that oil also becomes acidic over time and will eat your engine when the base oil pack is used up.
You have to test the oil to see if you can till run it. Just because it looks clean doesn’t mean it’s good.
I installed a Caterpillar Bypass Filter system on my 1981 GMC Gasoline 305 V8 back when I worked at Empire Cat Dealership in Tucson, Arizona my oil stayed looking clean & I changed the oil every year after that..I was very fortunate to buy my system very cheap back then & the filters were pennies on the dollar for me to buy
Nothing that says Cat is cheap anymore! 👍
@@freedomworx Only the gloves
So you put this junk in your car for what then? you change your oil anyway at 1 year mark... I have a saying , when nothing is bothering you , put a pebble in your shoe , people are great at finding problems that dont exist.
Filters that dont clean oil do exist. They sell you a filter that doesnt clean oil and tell you to come back and they will drain your dirty oil then sell you another filter that doesnt clean oil.There are all kinds of debates about which of the filters that dont clean oil is the best. Not much interest in filters that actually clean oil.
I installed this system on a 19995 Dodge/Cummins and drove 155,000 Miles over 10 years, and NEVER drained the oil! I only changed the filters 3 times and did "OIL ANALYSIS" to determine the condition of the wear in the engine, and also the serviceability of the oil.
Thanks for putting this video out on you tube, as it was very well done, as well as the appellant information on wear particles
I appreciate it. I’m just trying to educate and entertain folks. Getting a lot of flack from people thinking I’m trying to sell them something though. Or people that think they know more than I do about the topic, because they watched a Castrol GTX commercial when than were 7 years old. Never realized how many lubrication experts there were in the internet until I posted this video 😂
what if you made a fitting to fit the pan drain plug hole that could both drain and draw (tube inside a tube) and used an electric pump instead of joining into the existing oil filter system?@@freedomworx
@georgefeyen8759 the simplest meat of is to draw from a pressure port and return to the oil fill cap that has a fitting in it. That’s what the majority or aftermarket systems do.
Another time traveller from 19,995 !!!
😂
I recommend TestOil for oil analysis. I used Amsoil contracted lab, Polaris for many years. Testoil gives you a sample pump and all the tubing, bottles, mailers, you want for free. No more laying on your back, we know how much you enjoy that. They include ISO particle count, and Analytical Ferrography. Same day turn around in most. cases.
I’ll look them up 👍. I’m definitely not going through Amsoil, not independent enough for folks. Even though this video isn’t sponsored in any way by them 👍
Where do you get free from? I went to their Web Site and a pump and 5 test bottles was $282.00. Nothing is free except the shipping.
@JT-qf4it setup an account, once you do this you can request all the test kits you want for free. You pay for each test, as it is processed. Mine comes to $42 per test.
@@freedomworx I used Amsoil (AND Blackstone) for some of their MTF. They were honest with their results, despite the fluid actually doing damage to the tranny. (It wasn't designed for limited slip) But getting Amsoil the company to take responsibility was another matter entirely. Very disappointed.
Amsoil filters arent good enough and are too expensive. My wife asked me if I tuned up the old beetle. She didnt need to shift on the small hill going into town. I had just put Amsoil gear oil in it. Because of that I put Amsoil in the new 84 Subaru 5 speed. It didnt get drained in over 300.000 miles. Dont know what they have now.
My right ear is lonely, but my left ear is glad you put so much thought into this. Thanks FW.
My mic had a stroke at some point 😂
@@freedomworxyou edited with microsoft movie maker?
This is the most informative video on engine wear and components I’ve seen to date. Had no idea the oil determined how the bearing placement. I can understand now how abrasion etc can cause engine damage.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching 👍
Not saying thst this is a bad product but Even if it works as good as 0:12 you say the cleaning detergents that are in the oil break down over time and under prolonged heat exposure and t g e viscosity changes. You still need to change the oil from time to time to keep your motor running in top shape.
Chances are, the oil will still require period of changes. But in some scenarios, it can run idefenitely.
I agree generally. I was doing oil changes every 3 months @$150 per oil change (cost of oil and filter). After installing my FS2500 bypass oil filter, I found my oil is good for about 2 years by doing regular oil testing every 6 months.
Nowadays I change my oil yearly, and don't bother with oil testing anymore, however oil testing always found 0% levels of soot in the oil, which was my major concern.
The oil additive package was still acceptable after 2 years, but was getting to the point of needing a change by then. So I chose to change it yearly mainly to maintain oil with a good additive package and a high total base number to combat acidity.
Actually its a matter of keeping the oil analytically clean and adding enough new makeup oil to keep the additives up. Expensive filters dont get changed often enough. Some people say yes but the expensive filters can go longer between filter changes. The better the filter and the smaller the filter the more often it needs to be changed.
Wonderful video. I ran a diesel wrecker for 4 years during my repo years. I had to change my 2 oil filters every 10 days (as in every - 3000 miles). Oil was always black from day one. Motor died when the crank shaft key walled out and broke; I was lucky to be in my yard at the time the engine went out. Engine ran great up to then with 500,000 + miles on it.
That’s a lot of filters. 😮
I am told that the quick-change oil company oils you get are reprocessed/filtered oils. Anyone have thoughts?
@@richardhorner298 I'm told that re-processed/re-refined oil is just as good as new stock . They then put in new additives...
@@richardhorner298 In the past year or two, Aramco, etc. the Saudi Royal Family oil company bought Valvoline, so every time you go into one of their quick lubes, you are putting USA dollars into the pockets of the Richest Family on Earth! Think about that for a minute???
@@richardkingadi5511I was a mechanic for a re refinery. Non synthetic oil gets better every time it is refined. You don't have to deal with the highway construction materials in crude oil. At one time new Mercedes cars came with re refined oil. Goodyear sold ours in quarts. I assume a lot of synthetic oil is in it now. People wont buy it. They want the new stuff. I dont know where you can buy it now. Most of it goes to the major oil companies.
First time viewer; and now subscribed. I don’t even know what your channel is about, but your humor is spot on. Excellent! I learned a bit about bypass filtration too!
I’m just a gearhead and engineer that likes to learn, teach, and make folks laugh. Thanks for supporting the channel 👍
Same here. This video is pure automotive gold!
I installed that kit on my 2015 F350 Power Stroke when truck was new. One thing I didn't hear you mention is fuel dilution from cold stars & regens. That may be the limiting factor on your oil life.
I'll have to discuss that in one of the upcoming video. But what you have to realize is, the fuel evaporates out of the oil under normal operation. There is always a minute amount of fuel getting in your oil like you mentioned, but it normally evaporates out as fast as it contaminates the oil. That's why a very small amount of fuel dilution is acceptable and normal when you do a used oil analysis. If it gets above that low threshold, it indicates abnormal in-leakage from a worn or failed component.
Ditto for the additive package. The oil is going to "wear out." I used one of these in my car years ago - having the oil tested every year. I was using AMSOIL's best oil. It appreared that I could get one more year of use from my oil and no more. AMSOIL re-iterated in no uncertain words that I must change my oil at 20,000 miles or less.
We’ll see 😎
I'd say heat, friction, and time will cause degradation of the oil and especially the additives as well. I can see it work for high mileage driving to lengthen oil change intervals though.
Don’t try extended oil changes on a HUEI injection system like the ford 6 liter, even if you have bypass oil filtration. The high pressure oil system, which runs at thousands of pounds of pressure, will shear the oil (cut the viscosity) in short order. This is because most Diesel and automotive oil is not hydraulic rated, and not designed to run at such a high pressure. I have the 6 liter, and Amsoil bypass filtration. I tried to go 10,000. Miles instead of the factory recommended interval of 7500. I had problems with low boost codes, and injector stiction. Now I use Schaefer’s 0TR plus 5/40, and two shots of Revex, and change it every 3000 miles. I change the bypass cartridge every other oil change. Maintenance is cheap compared to engine failure.
Man! Great video! Although I knew most of what you were saying, I did learn some new info. Your humor though! It stole the show!
I really appreciate that my friend. USPS just lost a set of my Cummins Injectors, so I need all the help I can get 😂. More to come 👍
Love your humor, knowledge, and easygoing, yet clear and concise way of communicating otherwise mundane technical specs to an average Joe like me in a manner that doesn't send me straight into REM sleep...
I’m glad you enjoyed it. You can make most things interesting if you spend enough money 😂
Read an article in motorcycle magazine many years ago regarding the quality of synthetic oil. This shop had a shop truck with 100,000 miles and never changed engine oil which was initially filled with Mobil 1 when new. They sent off OA and found that oil still retained virtually original specs as new oil. Synthetic oil doesn't break down and lose its properties like Pretoleum based oils. Filter out the contaminates and you're good to go!
They are certainly superior to conventional oils.
I read that synthetic oils offer superior protection and cleaning at the cost of shorter maintenance intervals. This was supposedly due to the detergents in the synthetic oil, causing better carbon build up mitigation, but becoming oversaturated with acidic particles and carbon far more quickly, causing the oils viscosity to degrade.
For context the piece I read was in reference to rotary engines specifically as the rotary requires conventional oil in order to burn it in the combustion chamber. The piece was in reference to the benefits of separating the oil used for burning, from the oil used for lubrication, allowing you to run a more efficient and clean burning oil in the combustion chamber, and a superior synthetic oil for lubrication.
I know that rotary engines require shorter maintenance intervals anyway, however surely it would not matter which engine is the subject, if synthetic oils require more regular changes.
I was talking about a Detroit series 60 in a Peterbilt truck with over 1 million miles with virtually no engine wear and only 1 oil change using Shell Rotella conventional 15 40
and a Big Gulf Coast 02. At the time it used 2 rolls of Bounty big roll paper towels. Road King magazine asked me for the truck owners phone number. Road king did an article on it. They said the amount of makeup oil added at filter changes was equal to a full oil change every 40 K. The towels were changed every 10 K. The full flow filters were changed every 50 K. Oil analysis showed that was more filter changes than necessary.
Was talking about my 84 Subaru with over 250 K with no oil drains. Using Mobil 1 15 50 and a Frantz oil cleaner with a Frantz adapter that replaced the full flow filter. A Caterpillar lab manager saw my posts and sent me a sample kit. He said the oil looks good but recommended I change the Frantz every 6 K instead of every 12 K. Been doing 6 K since. The 06 Pontiac Torrent uses a Australian Jackmaster Classic with Walmart Super Tech. Im a filter guy not a oil guy. The top loaders are the easiest to service. The Caterpillar lab manager was concerned the Subaru wasnt getting enough new motor oil. It didnt use oil between filter changes. The 93 Legacy is another good one.
Filters that clean oil have been around longer than synthetic oil. We changed the filters more often and used single weight oil In 1963 Delo 30W and 20W was 29cents a quart in the discount stores. Couldnt use multi grades in a diesel if you wanted to keep the warranty.
I'm very happy that I stumbled upon this! Your delivery is wonderful and I really enjoy the little jokes!
I ran that exact bypass kit on a few cars (2 Toyotas and 1 Subaru), and it was absolute overkill.
The first car, a 1989 Camry, had 1200 miles on the oil when I installed a bypass kit. Within 90 miles, the oil looked nearly new! Starting was easier, idling was smoother, acceleration was noticeably quicker as well! We'll call this a win.
The second car was a 1986 Mr2. Standard 4 cylinder. It was the same result - the oil went from death black to nearly new in appearance in less than 100 miles.
At the time I was not doing UOAs, so I cannot give you factual data to backup any claim by any manufacturer. I will say, anecdotally, I would absolutely run a bypass kit on every vehicle if I could, as the health of the engine (longevity) means more to me than the money & time spent buying and installing the kit.
The third was a 2006 Subaru Impreza. Just like before, death black oil turned nearly new in appearance. I started to do UOA on this car, and the results were very, very good. I started with 5000 miles (factory calls for 3750 miles), then 7500 miles, then 10,000 miles... And finally... 12,000 miles. Blackstone said I could run the oil longer... Longer than 12,000 miles... That is how clean the oil was, not NEW clean, but clean enough... You get the point. I changed the oil at 12,000 miles, as that was 1 year on that oil.
To put it lightly, I was beyond impressed with the results. Sadly, my Subaru had to go to the shop to replaced a turbo that was allowing oil past the seals. The shop took the kit off and asked me "wtf is this contraption!?" I detailed it, and they said "that is absolutely overkill. btw - your engine is the cleanest engine we've ever seen." At that time, that engine had around 75,000 miles on it, and the shop knew the mileage of the engine as well.
I did notice a very slight increase in fuel economy as well, 1-2mpg on average, which is not a massive amount, but does add up over time... and turbo Subarus absolutely need help with fuel economy.
Your description of the economies of scale is spot on. The kit is expensive, and gets more expensive when you have to buy new AN fittings, hose, and Flame Guard... I was able to go 12,000 miles between oil changes with the kit though.
Thank you for the laughs and being honest about your setup and results. :)
Thanks for the detailed response. I'm glad you enjoyed the video 👍
I use Amsoil SS in my 03 civic. I change filters at 10k miles and even at a final mileage of 20k when I do the oil change, the UOA comes back saying I can go longer. But I figure 20k is plenty. I just change it once a year now at 14-15k miles amd a filter half way through.
Agreed! His delivery with the levity thrown in, makes for great edu-tainment.
Thanks for confirming my questions about adding one of these to a gasoline engine.
It's great that the oil looks cleaner, but without a detailed analysis of it you won't know if it still is good, or just looks good. For new oil it should help keep it cleaner for longer, but cleanliness is not the only thing oil is made for or what can go wrong with it. Honestly if these systems worked as well as people claim, they would already be in use by the manufacture.
For an older car you would not need some magic oil or filters, $20-30 every whatever is recommended is far better still, even with this system in place.
And no, companies are not out to get your money, an oil change is recommended and far easier for mechanics than an engine rebuild or replacement, if they wanted to really take your money, they would make engines purposely breakdown and with lemon laws in many countries that just adds to the cost that they don't want.
I e been operating a fuel barge with five Volvo D-13 engines for six years and never knew exactly what the point of the bypass filter was. Thanks for teaching me something.
Glad you got something out of it. 👍
Regarding the very fine soot particles found in diesel engines, I've found that the Land Rover 2.5L diesels manage to retain very clean oil thanks to the use of a novel centrifugal oil filter design - the filter spins inside its housing and seems to do a wonderful job of keeping the oil clean. Not sure how you'd replicate it in a bypass/external filter setup, but if you're chasing perfect filtration then it's something to consider.
Funny that you should mention that, I actually have a centrifuge to go on this truck. I’m going to run them simultaneously and see if the centrifuge can capture things that the bypass system does not 😎
@@freedomworx I'll be keeping an eye out for it, then!
Such a well done video.
I may add one of these to my gas engine despite your good points on why one might not want to. I would imagine that when you consider improved engine performance and/or if you have a larger displacement gas engine, the investment starts to make more sense.
There is a benefit for any engine, if you are willing to pat for it. 👍
Agreed. As a retired Ford. Lincoln, Mercury engine technician, I think it's worth it.
@@freedomworx It also depends on your attachment to the car. If you have a Viper, Corvette or an old muscle car, you want to protect it. 😄
@@darrylsjodin7184 in planning on doing it on my charger
I use the toilet paper filters on everything including the riding mowers. Most are old when they werent so expensive. My wifes Pontiac has the Australian Jackmaster Classic. My daughter said she married you for your money. I said I married her for the Pontiac Torrent. I dont think she married me for my social security check. I change the Australian Jackmaster Classic every 6.000 miles.
In the old days they were called soot suckers lol. Im a HD mechanic and have been running Amsoil in all my vehicles since the 80's and my diesels have always had bypass filters. Oil sampling has proven how good this combination really is.
I can’t wait for all the internet hate when I don’t change the oil for a few years 😂
I dont have a truck nor do I have any intention to build this system anytime soon. Tell me why I watched this entire video. Man you're just great at keeping attention! Love the channel man!
I appreciate the kind words 👍😎
This was a great and informative video. Didn’t know a bypass filter was a thing. Your analysis and delivery was complete and answered any questions that were going on in my head. Great job and happy new year.
I appreciate you watching buddy 👍
I subbed because of it.
I have used Trasko oil bypass which is a flow through and bypass filter in one and just screws onto the engine just like the original filter, and I have used Motor Guard - M30 - 1/4 NPT Sub-Micronic Compressed Air Filter with a roll of toilet paper, these have been around over 70 yrs and good to less than a micron, and I have used Gulf Coast filters for large equipment which used Bounty paper towel rolls which also good below 1 micron. A semi went over 1 million miles without wear and one oil change on this filter.
The Motor Guard on my old Ford F250 390 engine is over 50 years old. It was the best in the 60s. Frantz was suing the hell out of them. They had the compressed air filters. They dropped the lube oil filters. Most of my filters in use are Gulf Coast juniors and converted Motor Guards. My diesel tractor has a converted Motor Guard M 60 on the fuel. The best little filter still in production is the Australian Jackmaster.I have the least expensive Classic. It can handle the larger core and shorter paper.
Couldnt gravity enough diesel fuel thru the Great Value 1000 from Walmart or the Scott 1000. Went to the 2 ply Charmin ultra strong. A lot of oil filter BS now.
I love how you show your mistakes in your videos. Very human of you.😊
If you can’t laugh at yourself… 😉👍
I'll definitely stay tuned for the analysis over time.
Should be interesting 👍
I wasn't planning on doing this, never even knew about this, the video just happened to be in my feed so I clicked it. I watched the whole video just because I like you my guy. AWESOME video, love the personality and the info!
I'm glad you enjoyed it 👍
Did this on a 2007 LBZ Duramax. Fresh bypass EaBP110 used to polish the oil back clean like it was just changed. Pretty awesome stuff !
You got that extra long one. 😎
@@freedomworx yep works like a charm. Incredible stuff
I’ve been using the Amsoil By Pass system on my 1997 F-150 since I bought the the new in 1997, I then install it on my 2016 Silverado LTZ 3500 HD that I bought in 2019, the color of the oil never bothered me, I just like the fact knowing I’m doing my best. Thanks for the great video
Gotta do all you can to prolong the life of those newer trucks, they aren't giving them away anymore.
Like your no nonsense aproach and logical truth aswell as your reloading kit at the back . We speak the same language although we are countries apart 👍🎯 tnx
I try to make it easy to understand. 👍
I enjoy and respect this setup. I personally change my oil and filter every 3000 miles, I even use filters rated for 15k miles, but I do preventative maintenance. In my mind $40-$50 is going to save me the $500 in parts and hours of labor rebuilding my engine.
Nothing wrong with normal oil changes. This is more of an experiment than anything for me.
I really love how despite the very clickbait title and thumbnail, you actually go into where it could make sense and where it doesn't.
Thanks. I’m not trying to sell anyone in anything. Just trying to provide the data 👍
Great video, one thing you forgot in your FAQ is the reduced wear. How that SHOULD translate to longer lasting engine...which if you average out the repair...could pay for itself very quickly.
You make a good point. It's a tough thing to quantify though. I'm anxious to see if my wear metals drop with the Bypass System.
@@freedomworx , thanks. However, it's been kinda proven hasn't it? With he data from SAE and others (GM did a study as well). The most destructive particles are WELL below the 20-30 microns (at best) a GOOD (is that what most people are using? - not if they're going to a shop with a low cost oil change) full flow oil filter provides. So, the bypass would HAVE to provide less wear, hence longer life & performance.
Yes and no. The testing shows that removing those particles from the oil, reduced wear in the laboratory test conditions. But that test only accounted for the reduction from abrasive wear caused by the particles. Which is only a fraction of the wear that occurs in an actual engine operated in the real world. Most engine wear occurs during startups. Those engines didn't experience that at all. Nor did they deal with corrosion, erosion, or fatigue issue. And those engines weren't operated like a real world engine. They were fired off, heated up, and ran with contaminants introduced into the oil. So while it might have significantly reduced the wear from abrasion caused by larger particles (just say the wear reduction was 50% over a 20 micron filter), that doesn't mean you have reduced engine wear by 50%. It's only a fraction of that. That's why I say that its hard to quantify. My truck gets a lot more cold start wear than a hot shot rig. So it might significantly increase the life of a hot shot engine, but do little for mine. The benefit is proven, but the extent of that benefit varies greatly.
@@freedomworxwell said
I try 🤓😉
There were also some engines that come from the factory and the spin on filter that you might think is an awful filter but it's actually a bypass filter and there is no full flow filter
I’m not familiar with any modern diesel engine that doesn’t implement a full flow filter. Can you be more specific?
My 2002 Kia Sportage 2.0 TD have this system from factory. Obviously different design. return line of the secondary filter goes to oil pan. @@freedomworx
Got a picture?
I've seen a LOT of cars but NOTHING with a similar setup from the factory
My early 80s Mazda diesel pickup had both a full flow filter and a bypass filter. To clean the oil I removed the bypass filter and installed a Frantz oil cleaner. Forgot to remove the Frantz before I ran the ad in the paper. Offered to put the Mazda back on. He knew about the Frantz oil cleaners. I still have the Mazda filter.
I think... I think I found the Wendigoon of car stuff *subscribed* - love your work mate.
I had to look him up. Interesting fella. 👍
I had installed this system on my delivery van when it was brand new;I used to drive 7k kilometres per month; this system saved me from monthly oil change, after 1 year, I recovered the cost of system I paid in 2010, about $600.
Finally, a success story 😎
When the van finally rusted out and I had to replace it, the inside of engine still looked good and new; no signs of sludge and brown stains at all.
a friend of mine, an Amsoil dealer, used a friend of his as a test mule. They used a Ford Focus RS that was tuned, and put a bypass kit on it. Did oil analysis every 10k miles and other than topping off what was needed it went around 80k miles on that initial change. Pretty impressive
I think the oil will still break down after so many heat cycles, but I'm interested what this video is going to tell me
Yes, the oil will still oxidize, all you are doing is slowing it down. But there are studies of semis going over 1,000,000 miles without needing an oil change. So it effectively eliminated the oil changes in those trucks.
could you please provide any source of that studies. you probably already found them. Thank you.
There are several sources in the description of the video. Most of the extremely high mileage claims are marketing fodder for companies that make these systems. But there are several actual studies linked in the description of the. Video.
Ive used toilet paper filters for over 60 years. Ive seen a lot of changes.Frantz had filters that took 1 2 3 and 4 rolls of 2 ply toilet paper. They had a FAA approved AeroFrantz. John Frantz started in 1953 putting a Frantz canister in a larger canister that was usually optional equipment on American cars and pickups. Messy to change but very effective like all Frantz filters. A Frantz dealer in Gulfport Mississippi specialized in putting the filters on large marine engines. At some point they went out of production. He replaced them with a improved top loader toilet paper filter and large filters that used Bounty big roll paper towels. The little toilet paper filters were dropped luckily I still have a few in use. The Australian Jackmaster Classic is similar. I like it. The Frantz is a terrible design. I like toilet paper such as Great Value 1000 from Walmart. I see Ebay has Frantz elements for 10.95 18.68 shipping.
Actually all of these filters depend on keeping the oil clean and adding enough new makeup oil to keep the additive package up. I use the old truckers palm test. I put a little oil in my palm and smear it around. Dont plan on wasting money on lab analysis for my old engines. The Motor Guard oil cleaner on my old F250 390 is over 50 years old.
Love the Vid. I used to run a small trucking Co. We were running 17K+ miles per month with a 15,000 mile oil change interval so, we changed the oil 10 to 14 times per year at 11 gals. of oil per change. Times 8 trucks that is a lot of oil to purchase at $20 per gal. bypass is the way to go.
You were decimating the dinosaur population 😂👍
Very informative but I think I’ll just keep with my normal filter. The old 12 valve has made it half a million so far. My old man has a 24 valve he religiously changes the oil every 3-5k the oil is actually still clean looking for the first few weeks of use unlike most of us it’s black again as soon as you start it.
Nothing wrong with doing it like a normal human 😂 I'm just providing information that I thought was interesting. 👍
@@freedomworxbeing different 🤝
The old school system of allowing the oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it doesnt work for me. My oil must be analytically
clean 100 percent of the time. If something happens like a leaky head gasket i will change the gasket and change the oil. If your filter isnt working get one that will.
mate this was really nicely done with some good points of view and great easy to understand comparisons that help paint a picture of the points you are trying to make. you have a very pleasant teaching style and i can see this channel doing very well for the future.
Thank you for the kind words. I hope the channel grows well. I enjoy talking, so if I can get paid for it...all the better 👍
@@freedomworx keep it up bud. you've got all the makings of a top channel. the balance of humor, edumacation and redneckenes is spot on. genuinely had a good few laughs watching this. look forward to seeing more and i hope your channel grows massively because it deserves it.
@willyberg123 Cold flow depends on the brand. Amsoil’s Signature series 5w-30 has a pour point of -58 where Mobil 1, 5w-30 has a pour point of -33, so used Amsoil out runs other brands new oil.
You have a great way for transfering valuable information to us in a fun yet analytical way! Great style video, really enjoyed it!
I’m glad you enjoyed it. That’s my goal 👍
Great video. Not too far from Project Farm (Todd's ) dedicated videos. Of course you've got another lucky subber!!. 🎖
I appreciate the support 👍
Call it a hunch but something tells me that wasn’t a genuine Rolex wall clock
The eBay ad said it was genuine 😂
Congratulations on not pooping your pants for 12 days bro!
Somebody saw it! 😂👍
You’ve got me beat!😂
@@Rumcreekadventures New Years is hard on a gut 😂
Its the little wins that mean the most.
Great info! As well as the content with details. Keep up the great work!!!!
I appreciate it. Thanks for watching 👍
Well done. Concise. Full of facts. Debunks myths. Too many reviews of the Amsoil system on here have ended with “Nope…my oil is still filthy dirty dark, so I deem this a scam!” with no oil analysis or any sort of scientific look at it (followed by comments being turned off).
Looking forward to the oil analysis results. Subbed so I won’t miss them. 👍🏻
The oil has about 6,500 miles on it so it's about time to run an analysis. I'm also going to install a centrifuge to run in addition to the Amsoil system, to see if it captures any additional contaminants.
Nice video! Do you think the sub micron particles that don’t get filtered will build up more due to less oil changes? For example from say 10% to 20% and thus the oil that is being used would have a much higher % of sub micron particles in it? Will the lab results show this?
It's definitely possible. A particle count wont pick those up. It'll probably just reflect in the viscosity of the oil...maybe.
100 percent. I ran Amsoil to 12k miles and did analysis. Iron wear was double what it should be. Switched to Kirkland oil every 3k miles and wear dropped by 60 percent. Blackstone labs did a write up stating its not the brand of oil that matters in wear, it’s the frequency of oil changes.
@@dodgecummins6181 I would think it would be akin to a very fine polishing compound in the oil, that gets into everything. Shot gun blast vs sandblaster.
@@Vade1313 correct, that continues to accumulate the longer the oil change interval. Now I just use cheap synthetic oil at 3k vs the 7k owners manual recommends. No need for bypass or expensive oil.
@@dodgecummins6181 Same, i use synthetic and change it out. Also, a filter made for synthetic oil, filters better then a standard one. The micron size is set smaller on the filter because all the oil particles are the same in synthetic oil. Unlike conventional oil, where the filter size has to be set to the "largest" particle to keep the filter from clogging.
Thank you for the video! I am about to pick up a 2024 F350 and I am new to the wild world of coal rollers. This would certainly make the engine last a lot longer. I have a 07 RAM 5.9 Cummins 124k miles with a SunCoast stage two transmission with billet torque converter 8,400, new injectors 4,400 and mild tune at 450hp. It’s as fast as my 2020 Raptor was. If you would like another project truck. 29k OBO 😉
I picked up the RAM just a couple of months ago because the RV we ordered came in long before the new truck.
I actually have a 2006 Regular Cab 4x4 Cummins truck. My driveway is already over full 😂
There ain't pin holes in your welds if you fill them up with paint
Exactly! 😎
Absolutely greatest product after the dialysate filter. I work with filters and trust this product will work and save tons of money . Definitely will try it. 👌
Yeah, I’d say that dialysis filters are on another level. Wonder if they would work for engine oil though??? 🧐
Doesn’t matter how “clean” the oil is when the additive package is used up
That’s true. But you can’t just assume that the additive package will be used up faster than it is replaced by top-off oil when you change the filters. We shall see.
The reason the system works is the filters clean the oil and the new additives are replenished by new makeup oil added at filter changes. Centrifuges work but they need oil changes to replinish the additives. They dont require enough makeup oil. A big Gulf Coast filter on a large diesel truck takes 10 quarts of new makeup oil.
Its a lot less expensive to add 10 quarts than 10 gallons.
Won't the filter also remove the additive components from the oil, or are the components smaller than 2 microns?
I specifically asked Amsoil that question. And they assured me that a 2 micron filter would not filter additives out of the oil.
I have a 06 lbz, I put that same bypass setup on my truck at 500 miles. Had to make/change the bracket. I use the biggest filter Amsoil makes...for years the oil changes were $180.00 bucks. When I pulled the motor to do head studs I change to the PPE oil pan, now my truck holds 3 gallons... Thanks for the video!
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Now add in a pre-lube pump to get oil pressure to the farthest bearing before you start your truck. It will reduce engine wear considerably. You see them on large diesel engines, but people don't want to wait when they get in their truck so even though they are great, they are cumbersome to use, and manufacturers don't build them in.
Yeah, that’s a little overkill for these small engines. Makes sense for large, long engines, and engines that load very quickly after starting. Like emergency diesel generators.
This might honestly be the most informative and entertaining channel I've seen for fixin shit.
I’m pretty good at breaking shit too 😂😂
@@freedomworx that’s all I know how to do. That’s why I’m watching your channel. Trying to do the other thing
Learn from my mistakes 👍
Man I really love the technical knowledge it also the way you try to explain it to people so that you want to learn and it’s not overly boring because sometimes this type of thing can be to the average person.
I personally like this kind of stuff but for someone who doesn’t the way you are teaching them, I can see someone watching the video all the way through without skipping.
I appreciate it. Keeping folks entertained so that they will continue to watch and learn, is my strategy. Glad it's working 😎
This was an amazing video. No fluff to pad things out, very good explanations, and just a touch of humor. (Sorry about the light falling on you. Those lights are heavy!)
I’m glad you enjoyed it 👍
Tremendous detail... Freedom Worx is doing his homework, not to mention an epic sense of humor.
I appreciate the kind words. I try to take it a little deeper than most folks can or choose to do 👍😎
"Are those live rounds"? "30 millimeter, full metal jacket". Seriously, nice video, it's good to see an engineer who can use tools, and I like your stress reliefs on the bracket.
Wouldn’t do much good if they weren’t live rounds 😉. Thanks for watching 👍
Dude, you got a sub off of your humor alone. That video was a pleasure to watch. I didn't 2x the whole thing like I do most videos. 😂
I appreciate it 😎
Now I have to wait 3 months see the results way to hook us in very clever
I've already got 2700 miles on that system, so I'm getting there. Installing a Centrifuge when I sample the oil at 5k, so it'll be worth the wait 😉
Love your presentation, Bert. It puzzles me that you don't have 10X the number of subscribers. Keep it up!
I’ve only been doing this about 6 months, and I don’t post enough. Hopefully business will pick up 👍. Hard to make enough good content with a day job, wife, and kids. But I’m trying.
I have been running this exact system in my 2005 Duromax with Amsoil since new. Would love to see the internal parts condition and cleanliness. However, not willing to tear it down. Truck runs great!
Same. I’m not willing to open it up just to look at it.
I think I've found my new favorite diesel channel
Awesome 😎
I am about 4 weeks away from taking delivery of a new Chevrolet 3500 HD dually I ordered back in March and I plan on putting this system in at the first oil change!!!! Not sure it’d be ideal to do it sooner than that but I think the protection and saving would be priceless down the road!!!! Thanks for a great and informative video…. 👍🏼👍🏼
Just consider the warranty implications. If you do have a engine issue, the Dealer will almost certainly try to blame it on the modification. Thanks for watching 👍
Your scientifical expertise is what convinced me to put a bypass filter on my 4th gen cummins. 🍻
Cool. Now just find a way to keep that tranny alive 😉
Careful, i live in california…
That word means weird things out here man.😂
@sandslinger6720 I meant it that way 😉
Thanks Bert. Its hard to explaine to regular folks how this system works.
I speak regular folk 🤓
I’ve always wanted an indicator that showed when the full flow filter bypass opened up. Filters catch smaller material as they fill up, and it would seem that peak efficiency would occur up to the point of bypass.
The instructions for vehicles still show capacities for oil with and without filter change. When I first started changing oil 50 years ago I changed filters every other oil change.
Knowing when the filter internal bypass opens would be interesting.
Super nice idea !!
But theres 2 main things to consider:
1 - adding a new filter can raise the pressure of the system, overcharging the pump...
2 - the quality and functionality of the oil cant be measured by dirt and particles removed; The oil composition changes with hi temps... by the example: cook oil becomes diesel if exposed to high temperatures by long times !!
Long oil circuits can lower the oil temperature in very cold countries. This colder oil is inserted into the engine in different places, causing temperature differences where there should be homogeneity.
In my humble opinion, the second filter may save some changes... but cant free you up from change oil in some future time... And still have the oil pump to worry about !!
This system has no affect on oil pump flow or pressure. It’s a bypass filter.
I had a imprint that the system serialize another filter (see adapter conection) to the chain... Other filter (with the active filtering pores more thin or tights) gets high the resistence to oil pass...
I worked some times ago in a system that bypass the original oil system, capturing the oil, filtering, cooling a little bit (external oil radiator; here the summer can reach 120°C on the asphalt ) and re-pump it to most upper side of motor !!
Freedomworks is correct. Bypass filters have been on engines since the 1920s. Never caused a problem. Its a problem telling people no more oil changes. People are brain washed into thinking oil is supposed to get dirty and be changed.
The oil pump pressures up the engine. To keep it from over pressuring the engine the oil pump relief valve opens and sends the excess oil back to the oil pan. The small amount of oil going to the bypass filter or the turbo is nothing. Has no effect on the oil pump. It pumps the same. If the oil pump or engine is worn out or the oil pump relief valve is stuck open thats another problem.
This video is really well done! I was a mechanic in the navy and we had lube oil strainers and centrifugal oil cleaners that we ran. The oil on a ship can last for a decade or more! then again, those don't have suit from combustion, as they're steam driven turbines and huge reduction gears. water contamination was the largest issue really. awesome stuff and funny! thanks!
I'm glad you enjoyed it 👍
i,ve run the Amsoil bypass filter kit for 200k miles on my 97 Dodge 12 valve (at 206k now) and also change my oil every 10k to 15k miles. i did oil analysis for about 5 years before i was convinced the system worked and since then i just follow the interval mentioned above.
I’m just amazed that you have a 97 with only 207k miles 😉
I just found you channel off a different video where you put gear oil in your engine and man I love your videos and your humor and little comments and jokes its a great laugh keep up the great work
I appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching 👍
No offense intended... *really!*... but I am SO HAPPY to see someone else, while working on machinery, work SO HARD to keep tidy & neat... and MAKE A MESS in the process! I identify so much!! Years ago.. I basically (almost) gave up using funnels to pour liquid because I inevitably made a BIGGER mess with one than without!! You keep it real and honest... I will subscribe! 79 years old, and the only people besides myself that EVER changed my oil, was on a 2011 Toyota by the dealership that 'threatened' my warranty if I didn't let them change it for the first 20,000 miles.... :)
I’ll make a mess, funnel or not 😂😂
I had this system on my last Duramax (2015 LML) and now intend to install it on my newer Duramax (2018 L5P) it really does make a big difference and to me well worth the investment
I just wish I could get mine to stop leaking. I’ve replaced the oring that goes between the adapter and engine, and it still leaves a puddle of oil in my driveway anytime I cold start it before about 55 degrees. Not sure how something so simple keeps failing.
@@freedomworx one thing that happened to me with the system is that a crack appeared in the double filter mount, when I found that I contacted AmsOil and they sent out a replacement free of charge, I never had a spot of oil on the ground after that
So mounting the dual setup below the original oil filter location save installing the backflow preventer that would have been required if you mounted the dual setup above the original filter location, like on the inner fender.
Great idea and a note to anyone installing in a higher location.
I need to look and see if either of these filters have backflow prevention valve in them. I can’t remember honestly.
Again, very informative and entertaining video. Been kicking around the idea of putting on an oil bypass system for a while on a 5.9. Just haven’t gotten around to doing it. Great job on the editing and giving the science behind. Takes a while to film these things so I know you put a lot of work into it. Well done.
I appreciate the recognition. I wish I was good enough to put them together as fast as people think they go together. Takes a lot of time and research to provide factual information. Thanks for watching 👍
To your explanation at the beginning of the video... 1:04 min. the bypass filter should flow back to the sump... however, the adapter has an in and out lines. This means that any oil filtered by the " bypass" filter still going through the main oil passages... considering the reduction in flow on the bypass filter, It is very unlikely that 2 micron filtered oil will return back to the engine
That’s true. Just didn’t want to complicate it for folks.
I'll be back , not for the oil analysis but for the bullet pointer 😂😂😂😂Great vid btw
I appreciate it 👍
around 3:45 well what sizes a black blood cell??
Larger than the white ones 👀
Awesome presentation, but I have a bad and costly problem using amsoil products. Many years ago when I heard the oil promotion and the benefits that I could expected by stitching to amsoil, I did it. As soon as the oil and filter were changed, the problems started. It was a mechanical 3902 C13 cat with a history of strong performance, temp and oil pressure always great. I started, engine sounds good, oil pressure coming up, oil level was perfect and everything was normal. Before I ran one mile the oil temp started going up, out of the normal, but no vibration and the coolant started getting on high temp. So I turned around and went back to my mechanic. Long story short, after $4000.00 dollars later and a new set of bearings, i decided to never use amsoil again. But I do believe that anything that could bring down my maintenance costs, it is worth studying all the data available and taking it in consideration. Thank you for your good and honest presentation. God bless.
Thanks for watching 👍. I don’t blame you for having issues with Amsoil after that experience 🥴
I don't even have a diesel and "those of you who don't speak Canadian" and the flag at 0:50 was enough for me to hit subscribe. God bless America and everyone that has pride of it in their hearts.
I’m glad you enjoyed it 👍
Looks like we have a choice in the US. Mean tweets or communism.
Great Vid - I learned allot on bypass filters!
Thanks for the great vid - shows allot of setup, shots, editing, clear mic audio, super excellent!
I like amsoil & now debating and calculating adding bypass.
200$ in garage door insulation is awesomeness for your tools. I did the cheapo menards and it was magical.
Note: I made this low value insulation comment unasked for and with 0 knowledge of your needs, geo location, particulars of tool storage, plans, financial state, & etc.
But comments help Algo I am told and I am happy to support!
I appreciate it. I actually could use some insulation on the garage door. 👍
The only problem i have as an oil technician is the additives. The additives that prevent oil burning and provide the correct friction coefficient between the cylinder walls and pistons are meant to burn over time. They create a sacrificial layer on the walls meant to burn so that the oil doesn’t. If you’re not changing the oil, and I’m assuming you’re not adding additives to the oil regularly, wouldn’t this result in excessive oil burn off?
There are no additives designed to reduce burning or be sacrificial burn additives. The amount of oil that burns (evaporates mostly) is a function of the density of the oil, which most people will refer to as "weight." Lighter (less dense) oils like 0W-20 will burn (evaporate) at a faster rate than a heavy oil 15W-40. But additives such as detergents, disperants, anti-wear (ZDDP generally), anti-foam, anti-oxidant, etc... Do get "used up" during the service life of the oil. They are supplemented when you change the filter and add new oil. The operating conditions will dictate if the supplamental oil is suffiecent to maintain the additive package.
A uncle once told me when he changes oil in his 59 Ford it uses a quart then doesn't use any more. When I got older I realized the crappy 10 30 oil he was using evaporated a quart soon after an oil change.
Back in the mid 80s I designed out of the blues a bypass engine oil filter and cooling system for my 1600cc 1969 Nissan. Me and a friend went from LA to NYC none stop. It was a nice looking station wagon, it had a 20 inch gold &silver Enkei rims, modified suspension, water cooling modified system and a lot of things that back then only car lovers can do. Now @60 years I still do some work on all kinds of motor vehicles. All the new ones are trash. Thanks for your video. You do great work. Kind regards from Bogota Colombia South America. I Apologize for my grammar.
Nice 👍 I don’t get a lot of comments from South America 👍
This is *REAL*!!! I had one on my Honda Civic and it WORKS! Going to try to add this to my MEP-002 generator. TOUGH part though is finding a GOOD AND TRUSTED lab. Also not the easiest to do it the old school way (best) which is to put a T in the oil sensor to put the supply to the bypass which used to go back into the head via the Oil fill cap.
Military Generator 😎
I wonder how effective are ctrifugal filters? I like the idea of just being able to clean it out at sevice time, rather than an expensive filter change,,,
You’re in luck, because I have one to go on the truck. I’m going to run the centrifuge and Amsoil kit simultaneously to see if the centrifuge actually performs better than the filters. Stay tuned 👍
On a diesel truck, it probably won't matter, but I am curious how this would affect the oil pump on a smaller gas engine due to the increased resistance of the smaller sized mesh in the bypass. Mainly to improve turbo life on small-displacement engines. Excellent video - masterful explanation of concepts!
It doesn't affect the oil pump, pressure, or flow. I mean technically it does affect the flow to a small degree, because you are diverting a small amount through the by[ass filter, but not enough for your engine to notice. But because it's a bypass route, it isn't causing a restriction to your oil pump. If you used a 2 micron filter only, that ould be a problem. Definite flow restriction. Thanks for watching 👍
I'm glad you film your work. Alot of other TH-cam "mechanics" say I did the work and not film it. How do you know if they did it themself or if someone else did it? I just don't trust those TH-camrs and I rarely watch their videos all the way through to the end. I don't watch any more of their videos either. I am going to subscribe to your channel because you have great meaningful and informative content.
I make all my mistakes myself... don't need anyone else to help me make them 😂
Serious question-
How do you change the filters without dumping a bunch of the old oil? Won't you have to replace all the oil lost in the filter swap? Won't the loss/replacement of oil in a way affect the testing by "spilling" some of the resident contaminents and replacing with fresh oil and additives? I suppose you can catch all the old oil and funnel it back into the engine, but then you run the risk of contaminating the spilt oil with it coming in contact with the outside of the oil filter, right?
It’s a good question. You definitely loose a couple quarts when you swap filters, but that doesn’t affect the testing. All of the oil will have the same chemical and contaminant composition, regardless of whether it’s in the filter or the sump. It’s actually a good thing that you lose that oil, because you are helping to replenish the additive package when you add new oil to replace the old oil.
I have this bypass filter on my 2006 Cummins and always wondered if the the filtration was working tho my oil is still black as ink. You answered this for me. Thnx so much a great work!
Glad you got something out of it 👍
Definitely one of the chanels that should have at least 10x the subs it has.
I agree. Just getting started 😉👍
Thank-you for saying 'deppot' rather than 'deeepot'. Yeah, Canadian here but most Canadians now say 'deeepot' since the Home Despot came to Canada 30 plus years ago. I like your channel BTW
I appreciate you watching 👍
Most diesel trucks do turn dark due to soot , I have an 01 Cummins HO engine that has just stock filter and the oil has never been black ever. That’s a fact, and I changed oil as recommended Every 7,500 miles.
Maybe your diesel is an overachiever 😉
@@freedomworx it is I’m just glad it don’t write checks it’s ass can’t cash. Figure your shit out don’t bring your smart ass this way it won’t work out well for ya!
I worked for a company that used Detroit 2 cycle engines and Cummins. One Caterpillar engine. Some engines took longer for the oil to get black. I hear that a lot. The oil in my Cummins never gets black. No shit Dick Tracy. You change the oil before it gets black.
@@ralphwood8818 You I’m sure you didn’t call me dick Tracy right? Look man not very many diesels oil that doesn’t turn black as soon as you dump it in. Due to the suit from unturned fuel. So Sherlock freaking Holmes, get educated boy.
I like the way you dumbed it down for the average Joe and still got the point across, well done. The only comment I may object to is the 30 dollar oil change, I do my own and oil and filter cost $65 plus tax on sale. If you have the time I would like to see a chart on different oils for cost and quality. Thanks.
5 quarts of Wal-mart flavored 5W-20 Synthetic and a factory Honda filter for my minivan is under $30. Oil and a filter for my diesel engines is about $90-$100. That’s 15 quarts of synthetic 15W-40 diesel oil and a premium aftermarket filter. 👍
In Australia this makes sense. Here for the 2.3Litre diesel van, I pay $200 USD per change. Why cost of shipping parts from over seas and high labour rate. No $25 oil changes here
I feel like everything Down Under tries to kill you. Snakes, Insects, Kangaroos, Drop Bears, Oil Prices...
What's the cost of getting the oil tested in Australia?
Committing charge close to $300 USD for an oil change
I had to pay about 50 bucks US shipping from Australia for my Jackmaster Classic. Well worth it. I guess the Australian Jackmaster filter company was in the jack making business at one time.
I want to thank you for reminding me to change my oil today. I’ve got the day off.
Fresh oil is a good feeling 👍