Thanks to everyone who requested this comparison and please let me now what oil brands you'd like tested in future. Thanks again, Todd Rotella T6: amzn.to/3aT3jDd Delo: amzn.to/2FNtlMP
Would love to see Rural King’s house brand “Harvest King 15w-40HD” Diesel oil and also their 0W-20/5w-20 full synthetic oil as well! Thanks for the great content! We all appreciate it! 🍻
This guy is planning multiple tests months and years in advance. Most of the people I know can’t plan out a cigarette break. Bravo. Amazing organization!
Why would he Change?? 😟😟 HE'S MAKING A FORTUNE= 💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💳💳💳💳💳💳💳💲💲💲💲💲 and He's MAKING WAY MORE NOW STILL. HE'S ADDED WANTING HANDOUTS= 💰💰💰💰💰💰💳💳💳💳💳💳THROUGH HIS PATREON" MONTHLY SO CALLED DONATING!!😒😒😒AS IF HE HE'.REALLY NEEDS IT! SELLS STUFF TOO! RUNS HIS OLDER VIDS' NONSTOP ALL OVER! MILLIONS OF VIEWS ALL OVER NONSTOP ADDS TO MASSIVE MONEY! 💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💳💳💳💳💳💳💳💲💲💳💲💲💲💲💲
@@BigBird629 ok. If freedom loving “ citizens” would stop voting for those that tax individuals out of the extra cash we would have to help out? We would all be independently wealthy with no needs. I know it’s hard for most to fathom, especially those that have to include “ fuck” into the question. Public indoctrination
Agreed. And one of the only channels I would actually become a patreon of. No sponsors, no paid promotions, no bs. Not even a bias! He uses Supertech or amazon so hes just using an affordable no name brand which is great. Love this channel
This went far beyond any testing I expected to see from this video. There was so much information that I had to rewatch some segments. Truly impressive channel.
I respect the effort of Project Farm alot but you're wrong. There are actually ALOT of more accurate tests in more realistic scenarios with a better scientific background and scientific methods. Doesn't mean that the work of Project Farm is bad or not meaningful. Just saying that you should actually learn how to use google properly before you make such statements.
Great test! My dealership was having me change oil every 3k, but new dealership says once a year. Im a recent widow (my husband got 439,000 out of his 95 Dakota and did all the maintenance and repairs on our vehicles) and have to rely on yt and research. I appreciate your work and attention to detail.
You should still change it every 3,000 miles if it is conventional oil, or 5,000 if synthetic, but you don’t need to change it every 3-6 months. Still change it based on operating miles. Dealerships will tell you more miles, but more than about 5,000 can cause damage, longer term.
I do agree on determining the oil change based on the driven miles. The only thing more accurate would be to have an hour meter! I think that the 1 year thing is probably a fairly good estimate on the milage on a regular daily driver in a year being close to the 5000km mark. Just guessing at stuff!
jenny I am a mechanic, it will not hurt your car to do it at 3,000 but if it is a newer car it is wasteful cars, like people need more care as they age, an average car will be ok with 7,000 miles until you hit about 70,000 miles then you should shorten it, over 100,000, 3,000 miles will keep it going, also the more miles you have, go up on the viscosity
I' ve always believed the " once a year regardless of milage" oil change was a way just to sell more oil. I change the oil based on mileage or operating hours on my vehicles and tractors. All have had long lives with no wear problems. So many people are throwing away good oil thinking they are prolonging the life of their vehicles. You proved them wrong. Thanks for the test.
Left my Shell Rotella T6 eight years and came back to find the crank had filled with gas, displacing the oil. Crap. Stuff like this happens when operating over the year too, so it really depends.
Changing your oil only once per year is okay if you don't drive a vehicle. For those of us who do, please don't let what this person thinks dictate your oil change schedule. You change it when the oil is spent. You can see by the color, viscosity and texture. Dark brown, non-see through, slight smell. Change it. Don't need to look at the odometer. That oil will stay tan and see through for a few decades if left in the garage, so the amount of time matters little. Each engine is different. Oil types are different. Some have older seals that allow blow by and burning of oil will require more frequent oil changes due to the amount of particulate in the oil. Once that particulate count gets too high, the viscosity decreases, and that same amount of oil is not as effective. It's easy to tell in 2 steps. 1. Find oil dipstick 2. if oil is black, change it.
You’ll love this Mr. Todd. I went to pick up an order from the local AMSOIL warehouse the other day and asked them to arrange it in a box so I could ship it. The guy asked “is it a gift for Christmas”? I told him I was sending it to a TH-camr that I send products to just as little gifts now and then. He perked up and said “ is it for project farm!!?” I told him who it was for and that you buy all of your own products to be fair. They all love your oil shootout videos!
@@ProjectFarm Could you do a video comparing 0w20 to 5w30 oils? The Toyota 3UR-FE V8 specs anywhere from 0w20 to 20w50 depending on country. The US specs only 0w20 while the Middle East and Australia can use 5w30.
@@Joe333x Maybe the variation is due to ambient temperature? I understand parts of the U.S. sees temperatures below freezing. In Australia, thats very rare. However we often have high temperatures, so we have to deal with that.
Good to know that for retired people like me that don't drive much (under 4000 miles a year), that using high quality full synthetic oil, the annual oil change is good enough. Also good to know that if you go 13 months, say, vs. 12 on occasion between oil changes, no big deal with low mileage. Thanks for the energetic testing efforts you do. Subscribing and thumbs up.
@@JesseMgala it's generally a good idea but it depends if you are in a humid climate, if the humidity wasn't terrible in the last year just check to see if the oil level dropped. If it dropped I'd just change it but if nothing was lost you could go a bit longer I think. I usually change one of my vehicles I dont drive much yearly due to the high humidity even though its parked in a garage just to be on the safe side and because I'm picky.
Do a Blackstone oil test. It's cheap. The report comes back with advice about if going longer is better. You might find that 2-year changes are safe. Someone actually analyzed a collection of anonymized Blackstone data and found that frequent oil changes actually produced more wear than than infrequent (until you reach the point the oil is so degraded that it begins to cause wear). The person doing this analysis wasn't sure why that pattern of new-oil wear was in the data. It could have been new oil dislodging contaminants which caused wear before being trapped in the filter? It was interesting that "more" isn't better that way. Changing every 3 months (which some "severe" schedules call for even when low miles) was worse than going a full year. A car's warranty is one thing to keep in mind. If it calls short-trip driving "severe," and you find through your own oil analysis that you can go 12-18 months between changes without any signs of degradation... you could find yourself in a tough spot if you have a warranty claim. You'd think the analysis reports would stand as proof. But, some car makers will use anything to get out of a claim. So, saving a little on oil changes might not be worth the fight, and voiding a warranty.
I really like your testing style... no assumptions, no personal years of experience, no nonsense... Like always no beating around a bush... pure a simple hard core testing....
It's been a year video, but still helps unanswered question for many. Totally respect your effort and time doing this experiment. Hands down the best auto tester channel
... you've confirmed what I've thought for many years... 'change your car oil every year regardless'... what a load of old tosh... PF, you really are providing an excellent service for all of us with these in great in depth tests... keep up the good work, cheers!
Thank you very much! The truck is my baby, although I do work the truck hard when its time to go to work. By the way, you've got amazing content on your channel!
I use Airwolf Filter Corp cutter every 50hr on aircraft filters. Open filter media and run a magnet across the folds while doing a close visual. That and trending a spent oil lab analysis will give you a good idea how things are functioning.
As a 25+ year mechanic, I really appreciate your comment about letting your engine come up to operating temp once a month to disperse any moisture. I have long believed that "time intervals" for oil changes were a joke/propaganda. I have always advised my family & customers to go by hours/mileage as long as the engine was operated at normal operating temp every 4 to 5 weeks.
I can not understand the term "normal operating temp" i have a new VW PASSAT that have an oil temp reading (not the water coolent temp) in the instrument cluster. If i drive gently for long distances it average 97 in summser and 92 in winter. If driven (reved) little harder in sport mode it reach 102 in summer. So my question is: should I bring the oil temp above 100 centigrade (boiling temp) or just the max temp of a gentle long run? They are way different temp from each other. Thank you
@@TubesWidener oil does not boil at 100 C. Water does at sea level and under certain barometric pressure.your oil should be fine upto an even higher C. Check oil manufacturer data. I replace my oil when i dont like the color ...black.thats it.£30 per year and only 4 L .I can live with that both environmentally and financially.we tend to overcomplicate things. Best Mick
@@TubesWidener ...then normal operating temp. for your car is approx. 95 Celsius on the instrument gauge (obviously the sensor's position is the reason why it is so low) so use that value.
@@solkim133 But it's water that must evaporate from the oil. Obviously the oil in his Passat gets much hotter than 100 Celsius, I don't know where the "German Engineers" placed the oil temp. sensor to read that low. I drove an Audi years back and the oil temp. gauge was at over 150 Celsius.
Todd, I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw this video today, because this is the question I asked you in the comments of a previous video! Thank you so much you made this video. This is Exactly like my case at the moment - my car oil is full synthetic at 1900 miles (3000 km) and is like yours - 17 months old. I change my oil myself because I find it satisfying experience and planned to change it in the spring when it is warmer. One day I spent a day researching the Internet whether I should change my oil around the one year mark but I could not find anything - everybody said that it should be changed once a year (for the synthetic) because it was written on the bottle... Also in the car forums was popular the opinion that the oil no longer has the lubrication properties, that it contains water/moisture, fuel and it is bad for the engine. However these were all peoples assumptions and absolutely zero tests, experiments, or facts, only opinions or writings from oil bottles. So knowing this rumors and legends I started to avoid driving my car because I false knew the engine oil is bad and I am going to damage the engine life. I drive the car couple of times a month and reaching operating temperature every time. Yes, I knew that the engine oil is not good as new, that the oil condition depends whether is city or highway driven and on other conditions. However until now I haven't seen any tests to show whether such low mile oil will ruin the engine if passed the annual change mark. So thank you so much Todd, that you myth busted this the one year mark for a low miles oil and brought light to this topic! With hand on my heart I am saying that this is one of the Best channels on youtube! Thank you and Merry Christmas!
This was such good news to hear about oils being good after 12 months. My fiancé drives a 2004 Toyota Camry only about 3000 miles every year. It is driven at least once or twice a month so the oil gets up to temp periodically. We keep the battery charged with a CTEK charger as well. I didn't do the oil change for nearly 21 months when we hit 5000 miles and the maintenance required light came on. This tells me the oil will be good for the time that we drive between oil changes. We haven't experienced any adverse issues so far and use high quality synthetic oil. Thank you Project Farm for putting out an incredible and informative video.
I still own a Toyota Tacoma 2004 with 300 thousand miles on its and still running around, no problem with engine yet, I always take it to the dealer and the dealer put a new chassis on it for free,
21 years of Amsoil annual oil changes and I've never had any issue. Oil level is the same after 1 year as it was the day I changed it. Less time wasted, less cost, super convenient!
Amsoil does not have brand specs codes on it's packaging, why not. I use Liqui Moly or Motul, with specific mfgs specs listed on bottles, it makes a difference...if the spec is not listed, means it wasn't tested to meet the mfgs specs for emissions, buildup etc..ie VW Porsche, Audi specs, Vw has codes like 502,504 505 506 507, weigh alone is not the true spec
I am a retired Heavy Mechanic, Used to work for Greyhound Bus lines in The Calgary Alberta shop [500 buses] we began testing synthetic oils on Select Buses in 1978, the wintertime in Calgary would require the Buses to be running 24hours a day, even when parked, due to extreme freezing temps., as you can imagine, these buses would go through Extreme duty most of their service life. What we found through much testing and Laboratory back up, The Oil did not break down at service intervals. The Filtration was the Issue. We found that Changing the filters [oil and Air} on a more frequent basis, e.g. Skip every other oil change but change out Filters, was giving Satisfactory results. Whether it was Natural or Synthetic did not matter. End result: Change your filters more often, and don't worry about the Oil as much, since filtration is the key. I have always run my vehicles on this method ever since and have never suffered any negative consequences. Kinda makes you think, Why the service manuals instruct us to change the oil every XXX Miles or Klms. So save your Money on Oil, and Change your Filters Often. Thanks for all your Vids, And i wish you and yours, the very best of the season. Al
I remember my Dad bought a Jeep Cherokee new in 1976, he started using Mobil 1 synthetic in it which said something like 25,000 miles on the can but he always changed the filter something like every 5,000 miles.
Fun story. I work as a parts salesman and an old timer would make the trip to the store every 6 months or so to pick up parts and a lot of oil for his shop and haul it back up north in his late 90s f150. He overheard us talking about needing an oil change and mentioned that hes never changed his oil in his truck for the last 15 years. I asked him to elaborate and he said that he drills small holes in the bottom of the oil filter to slowly drain out oil and he tops it up every few days so he always has fresh oil. I laughed thinking it was a joke and the other guy working with me has known the older gentleman for 30+ years assured me that hes telling the truth. So after the old guy pays up and left i took a look where he was parked and sure enough there was a little bit of fresh oil on the ground. seems crazy to me but that truck has made thousands of kilometers in terrible northern road conditions and weather without ever changing the filter or oil.
The mistakes I made many years ago was not to pull a vacuum through a PCV valve to draw moisture quickly back through the carburetor to expel the high moisture content , thinking a cleaner fuel air combustion was more important , maybe in drag racing but not as a street driver ! You pretty much covered what I learned over the years , thanks as always !
Fun Fact: You can clearly see in the video that the freezer is not set to -40degF but to -40degC. Does not matter, as -40 is the only temperature where Degree C = Degree F
First time I have watched one of your videos and have to say I'm impressed by the level of thoroughness you install in your tests. Very informative. Thank you
I have over a dozen cars, many that see less than 1k miles a year and always go back and forth how often the oil needs changed. I’ve been looking for a test like this for years. Excellent video and very informative. Thanks for the great video!
@@mikedubasak5280 Thats BS, fresh oil will change its color from honey-yellow to brownish in a couple 100 miles. You can see it in the video, when he cooked the oils. So dont tell us, your oil looks like new... Youve probably never seen it yourself...
That seemed like a dicky and unnecessary comment, especially on Christmas... He cooked the oil at 400 degrees to replicate extreme conditions, oil in a motor is typically right around 250 degrees. Color is a little subjective, especially when your looking at it on a dipstick. The only oil that is black right away (at least in my experience) is in an old ford 7.3 diesel truck I have. In a well maintained good running motor, oil doesn’t change very quick, especially in newer cars. Again, in my situation, oil I’m looking at oil less than 1000 miles in a car that is sitting in a garage. Maybe if a motor is really tired, it would be black pretty quick. Again, just sharing my experiences as a mechanic of 15 years.
I've given up on finding one for a price that isn't insane. I just did the next best thing and swapped a built Ford 300 six (the one with forged internals that were put in dump trucks) into a gas 4 speed F-250 that had an oil burning problem.
@@gregnixon1296 the secret to long life dodges is a well taken care of Cummins. More trucks over a million miles than the other 2 diesel competitors combined
I bought a new Ford Ranger in '03. 3.0 V-6 engine. When the warranty was up, I put it on an annual oil change. Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W/30 and Motorcraft filter. I would average 10 to 12 K. per year when it was my daily driver to work. The truck has 196K on it now. I recently replaced a leaking valve cover gasket and the valve springs, head, and valve cover were spotless. I have been retired for years and the yearly mileage has declined. But still once a year on everything I own. I love your videos! Very good unbiased and useful info.
I change oil on my four small engines every other year. They range in age from 30 to 40 years old and still run well when needed. I’ve had issues but not with parts contacting oil. Thanks for your good work!
Sounds like thats more of a testament to the build quality of the engines, rather than the oil. That or they have extremely low hours and light use. Ask an actual professional landscaper, builder, etc. NOTHING lasts that long under regular heavy use.
@@ProjectFarm Huge respect for coming back to 1 year old videos and checking what the viewers say. It's rare to see creators genuinely care about quality, precision and feedback from viewers. Love the content! Unique features and reviews of items that genuinely mater to the people.
My truck/tractor sat for 7 yrs, 5 years without starting. It had T6 with 5k miles on it. I started it & ran it for 30 miles. Took the oil sample. Sent it to Polaris. The test was good with slightly high lead they said wasn't a problem and that was it. They said run it for 3k miles & retest. (At this time know one can find T6). Your vids are a great help.
@@ProjectFarm For how long should I get it at full operating temp? And what if I did not reach operating temp at least once a month? Change the oil every 6 months? Thanks!
@@maubilla Dont, revving hard on a cold engine causes blown headgaskets. wait till the temp is on the guage for cars/trucks. for air cooled engines just warm it up till you feel heat on the cylinders side with your hand... heat up a thin frying pan to fast and it will warp just like a head being heated too fast.
Really good to know, since retirement, I only put 1,000 - 2,000 miles per year on my vehicles and now I can change the oil once every two years with a premium oil filter installed. Thanks again for your great videos !!!
@@danaoberlander5754 I changed them both annually as I only average between 2k and 3k per vehicle. Knowing this, I can postpone the interval a bit longer and save a little money and elbow grease.
Thank you! I'm putting less than 10K miles on my truck per year as I work from home. I was wondering about the 1 year limit for oil that I've heard about. Glad to see it is a myth. I always use pure synthetic. Mileage is another issue, but with modern metallurgy and lubricants I believe it safe to say that the 3K mileage limit is a myth.
@@joevarga5982 highly depends on the car and driver. No oil is going to last long in a small turbo engine with a 3.5 liter capacity you redline all the time
@@gigel99324 "No oil is going to last long in a small turbo engine with a 3.5 liter capacity you redline all the time" Sooo... you cherry-pick a severe-duty application to prove that I'm wrong? Lol. The traditional 3,000 oil change interval was STANDARD, GENERAL-PURPOSE advice for EVERYDAY typical use for AVERAGE people from back in the day. OF COURSE you'd have change more frequently for severe duty applications.
@@joevarga5982 I'm beginning to agree. Scotty says change every 3k, but I've got 5k on my oil now and it's still clean. Not spotless, but can clearly see the dipstick. Do you personally go 10k on synthetic?
I've always followed once a year or every 7,500 miles, whichever is first. Part of it is doing your research and learning which cars/engines have known oil issues like sludging or oil burning. Those you want to change more often.
When I was working in a highly stressful environment, I could not find the time/energy to change my oil for 2-1/2 years. I drove my 1999, 6cyl, 4.0L Jeep XJ for 25,000 miles over that span of time on conventional oil. (If I remember correctly, I did add a couple of quarts during that run). Years later it's still running great, but I'm back on an annual conventional oil & filter change schedule.
@@hhjhj393 5k mile changes, and full synthetic Valvoline and a synthetic oil filter for me. From what I've heard, 5k is the most commonly recommended oil change interval, but 3k is if you do conventional oil, tow heavy objects, or drive the car very hard. (Also you're probably doing the smarter thing, because the more frequently the better! Lol.)
Before I make it 10 seconds into the video, I can say for a fact, that oil does not expire. Viscosity doesn’t just disappear. Let’s see if what I’ve always believed is right. Thanks for the videos man!!!
Thank you very much! It's probably my fault since I don't ask people to subscribe, turn on the bell, etc. Viewers don't need someone else telling them what to do. lol. Thanks again!
Just stay away from supertech oil. Even the full synthetic is sus, on the package they depend on you not reading properly it doesnt say it meets or exceeds the standards, it says "use where you would use products that meet or exceed the standards", in other words they never themselves met or exceeded those standards, or they would say so.
There's very few channels on YT worth watching, but I always get excited when a new Project Farm video pops up in my feed! Informative and non-biased testing is hard to come by when it comes to oil/filters.
When I was a young guy I worked for Shell Oil. There was an area in the operation where they would make engine oil and near by there was a container filling area. Since I was moved around quite a bit I got to see many aspects of the operation. In the filling area I saw the same product poured into different containers from 1 qt size to 55 gal drum size. The names of those products were SHELL, AGWAY, PENZOIL, QUAKER STATE, and a few others I can't remember just now.
I, too, have worked for a lubricant oil factory, and it's pretty amazing how much the different oils are the same. Four different 5W-30s, but basically all of them identical. They might use one adative or the other, but the bases are the same. Speaking with the chemists there (QA chemists, not development chemists), they shrugged when I asked why I should choose the one oil over the other. All of the measured data were basically within each others' tolerances. They didn't want to say that they guarantee that they're the same, but they couldn't understand why an engine would suffer or last longer using the one 5W-30 over the other. OEM-labels were also fun. They didn't claim to do something different than the base-label, but they always used more "creative" language to upsell you on their oil.... that's exactly identical to the other.
10/10 is not for entertainment purposes only. I mean, I would never watch these videos and consider them as a basis for making a real life decision. But man, that Diablo carbide sawzall blade will cut stainless steel all day long!
My dad was a truck driver for 55 years before he retired a few years ago. He had driven just about every truck, engine combination you can imagine. The last truck he drove he was an owner operator and he would only put Rotella in it. I remember him saying that of all the oils he ever used it held the best oil pressure right up until the time it was time to change it. The truck had a 60 series Detroit in it and at the time of retirement it had 2,400,000 miles on it with two in frames one each at 1,000,000 miles. The truck was new when he purchased it so the engine had only ever seen Rotella.
You rock bro. The detail you go through with timing, temp, wear testing is unmatched and gives credible verification to the results vs simple anecdotal testimony....but my favorite video was when you turned motorhome into tree stump extractor. Haven't watched it in a couple years but just smiled thinking about it.
Wow. I'm always very impressed on all the tests you make on everything. Plus all your videos you throw extremely usefull information. This is one of my few A+ channels. Thanks so much for the great effort with the apropiate enginnering plus intelligence included on everything you make. You are a truly wise person.
Since you brought up oil bath air cleaners in the video: I've heard a LOT of old timers tell me oil bath was better at filtration than foam or paper media filters. Even heard one go as far to say that air filter companies launched a conspiracy to end oil baths just to sell more filters to farmers. Would be a cool test to see air flow and filtration efficiency between oil bath and other types of air filters.
paper air filters are very good at filtration and low restriction. oil filter baths are good at filtration but have much higher restriction. at least thats what i heard. i have seen many aftermarket air filters with dirt past the filter so i dont trust them (there are better ones out there however)
Oil baths are great at catching coarse to moderate sized particulate, but not finer stuff. Older engines could deal with this, modern ones can't. The other big factor: turbochargers. Not a good idea to be sending oil vapour through them!
Oil bath filters are extremely good at keeping particulate out of your engine, especially for dust and dirt, which is a lot more common on farms than it is for your car to experience most likely.
Great video and suggestion. GM had some bad head gaskets on older models. Curious if acidic old antifreeze could have caused additional corrosion beyond the 5 year mark. Tough to establish a control across this time period, and compare head gasket corrosion.
Oil and steel are one thing, water and steel another. Then there is aluminum which has some wild reactions with chemicals. I would not keep antifreeze in there much beyond the recommended. I did that and the impeller on the water pump in my 85 Toyota pickup completed rotted out causing overheating.
I would like to see that too, I am a pro mechanic, I am advising people with cars that have a sealed cooling system that a coolant flush is not needed, would like to know if I am right
Damn, most comprehensive testing for the everyday consumer to understand without all that “sales” talk from these Oil Companies…. A most excellent dude…
Just changed the Honda Accord V6 after 2 years and 5,000 miles. The maintenance minder said it still had 40% life. I only changed it because of always hearing about it has to be changed every 6 months even if you don't reach the mileage limit. I never believed that but was getting paranoid with it goin on 2 years. Now I know better. Thanks for confirming what I always suspected. Didn't know about the running at least once/month to get it up to operating temp. Good to know!
This test is even more relevant in this pandemic. Since I'm now working from home I'm not putting hardly any miles on my car. Normally I'd be changing the oil this spring and have about 5k miles on the oil. This year I'll only have about 1.2k miles. I'm thinking I can go an extra year this time.
@@eurotrash4629 Presumably also dependent on the usage of the vehicle. Or is there actual data proving that natural oil goes acidic and eats away at the engine even when the vehicle is only used occasionally?
@Ian or you could do your own oil analysis and see how your OWN oil is doing after an extended period of time, not just go by someone else's results using a different oil on a different vehicle. Just my $.02, no offense intended.
More like Boeing. Their new spaceship got lost the other day and didn’t make orbit. Not to mention their jet crashing issues and CEO that was just fired.
I’m impressed w/the quality of ur testing. Great work. This one video covered a question I’ve been wanting answered as my wife’s car doesn’t go 4K miles per year. I’ve been using Mobil 1 oil and filter probably for the last 10 years and the car runs flawlessly but I did not know if it was a good idea to do this. Thanks a lot for giving us the scientific answer!!
I work as a lubricant engineer and enjoy these kind of well done home made tests. FYI for all in case those that didn't know, TBN = Total Base Number, TAN = Total Acid Number. I concur with your findings which I believe personally. The oil is good, don't need to change. However some will cling on to the belief because they don't know about oil testings or how to read the results. Some might scoff at doing oil analysis since a bottle of oil might cost similarly. However it is always beneficial because you get to know what's the state of your engine is currently like. I think corrosion in an unused engine that's seated for a very long time happens more from condensation of water and causing rust.
I change my truck's oil once a year. 4000 miles +/-. My RV only gets 1200 miles per year + 20 minute start and warm up monthly, so I change that every 3 years. Hasn't been a problem.
@@bigfoot14eee99 start up and warming without driving is actually worse than not. Engine oil will take forever to warm up by idling and the amount of moisture is created gets in the exhaust and oil is scary. Just let the engine sit if you know you will not be driving the vehicle for at least 20-30 minutes.
@@Hathrandir Wrong, anything damaging will be collected by the engine filter. Plus we are talking about low hour low mile engine oil that sits not your daily short trip engine oil.
I'm going to stop at 0:34 and say what I should have said on another video of yours: that Dodge is sharp. I had an 02 just like that, 2500, Cummins, white, extended cab, long bed, bought new. Yours is in way cleaner shape than mine ever was after about 5 years.
🏍Please do a Motorcycle/ATV engine oil showdown. You have done a lot of other things on this channel and was great but I really believe that this would be a popular topic in the TH-cam community. Thanks and Merry Christmas!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Just run Rotella T6 and call it a day. That's literally what everyone else in this comment section does, including myself. You won't find a better oil for small engines with wet clutches.
Project Farm Please include the Motul 7100 fully synthetic 10W40, for egoistic reasons :p But really with all this positive feedback on rotella id really want to see wether a change of brand would be worth it!
@@JeremySchoeder Just as an fyi, a couple of years ago, Shell changed the formula for the Rotella line of oil, and added in some additional friction modifiers. This is not a good thing for motorcycle wet clutches. I only noticed this when my clutch started to slip, and I called my clutch company (Rekluse). They were the ones who used to say use the Rotella oil. They no longer recommend it due the the added friction modifiers. Still a great oil, just not for bike anymore.
I think it would be very interesting to see you put super frozen oils in the wear tester similar to a real cold start. Maybe figure out how to limit the flow of oil like an engine would have
One thing I've learned working at a lube shop is how important it is to double-check oil levels when doing a new filter. Even with smaller filters, it's common to need add another half quart when the filter is saturated. Even if you pre-fill the filter, it's best to double-check
I got 210.000 mile on my 07 Ford freestyle with 3 oil changes. It don't leak it don't smoke and it hasn't turned thick. Never added any. I figured it would blow up 150.000 ago but. What a great car
I used T6 in my 2004 jeep grand cherokee for the first time a month ago, based on recommendations from a jeep forum, I guess they were right and you proved it! It actually increased my gas mileage by 3 miles per gallon and is a quieter motor. Merry Christmas, Sir, may your next year be fun and good. Amen.
@@gristlevonraben Thanks. I'm going to try T6 in my 01 7.3 Powerstroke next oil change since this vid indicates it is slightly superior to the Chev Delo Full Syn I've been using.
@@melrobinson6919 awesome, just remember, they come only by the gallon, unless you are lucky enough to find a few quarts somewhere, so basically, you have to buy two gallons. They can be really cheap if you look around, though.
I've got 2 cars that have never had an ATF change.. one is 22 years old and has 200K miles, the other is 11 years old and has 150K miles on it..... both drive and shift like new.
Either change it often or don't bother. Dk why but have felt multiple vehicals seem to get stuck in neutral on low rpm shifts than slam into gear. It's super odd. Also flushes are the worst thing you can ever do.
I’m a firm believer in dump and fills. When I buy a new used vehicle; one of the many things is switching the atf to a favourite brand ( works out to be 1/2 the total fluid) and again in a few months to be 70%new. I did notice on my last 2 the transmission’s operated way better than I could think. It also gave me peace of mind, knowing what oil, the brand and the care involved with this maintenance.
I fill my horizontal-mounted oil filters to saturate the filter element prior to installation. Installing them dry, in my opinion, delays oil flow at start-up until the paper element absorbs the oil, which takes a second or two. Next time you change your oil, pour oil in the filter and watch how long it takes for the element to absorb it, especially large filters.
I am curious to see lab results comparing metal wear rates in a gasoline engine. Maybe rottela T5 10w-30 vs motorcraft 10w-30 (both are synthetic blend) after 5000 miles in a gas engine. This would be huge.
@@xlightssx I have a 4.6l v8 mercury grand marquis. In the owners manual here in mexico it says use 15w40 weight. It hardly drops below 0°c to 38°c on summer here. I use mobil 1 super "conventional" 15w40. I change it every 4 months with my fl 820 motorcraft oil filter. I want to change it every 6 months. My options are 15w40 api sp full synthetic from quaker state or this delo ( SAE 15w40 ) from chevron. Which one will you think it's better? My car is in good condition and the engine burns about 1 quart every 4 months. Thank you. Mobil super is working good so far. It keeps my engine quiet but I don't trust the brand much to leave it more than 4 months, my driving is commuting daily, might apply to severe use conditions.
I change every 10,000 miles on a Mercedes S550 that requires 13,000 miles changes. BUT it takes me 5 years to put 10,000 miles on. I changed it every 5 yrs with zero problems & it still looks good. Mobile 1 10w-40 🤷♂️👍🏼
Nice to see Shell oil products are still the top of the quality scale. My engineering class in 1994 did all of those tests, in our fuel chemistry course, including the ones you sent samples out to the lab to do, and came to the same results. Though we tested 10 different oil brands. Shell oils came out on top back then as well. (automotive, and aviation oils)
While the oil may have life in it, the danger is sludge buildup which can only be seen/measured by popping the valve covers. This is something that kills the Ford Triton 3valve motors. Even though you could be keeping under the mileage and oil analysis says its good, a removal of valve covers often reveals buildup that will kill modern engines due to their small oil passages
I'd trust the guys who engineered the car and performed testing during the R&D process (as documented in the owner's / service manual) and are on the hook for both the warranties and brand reputation well before anyone else.
Thanks to everyone who requested this comparison and please let me now what oil brands you'd like tested in future. Thanks again, Todd
Rotella T6: amzn.to/3aT3jDd
Delo: amzn.to/2FNtlMP
Hey Todd! love the videos! I was wondering if you could test Kirkland Signatures new 15W40 Diesel engine oil! See how it compares to Rotella T4!
Can you test semi synthetic oils
T6 vs Schaefers please. Which is better ?
I wonder if you can do a test for PERTUA Engine oil and metal treatment and check the claims of what Pertua do to the engine.
Would love to see Rural King’s house brand “Harvest King 15w-40HD” Diesel oil and also their 0W-20/5w-20 full synthetic oil as well! Thanks for the great content! We all appreciate it! 🍻
This guy is planning multiple tests months and years in advance. Most of the people I know can’t plan out a cigarette break. Bravo. Amazing organization!
Allegedly he has a military background. That would explain some things.
Thank you for the feedback
Really. This hurts my head
Yes, great job PF and thank you.
Nicole Martins funny how accurate this actually is..
Over a million subscribers and you haven't changed a bit. Your humility and diligence does you credit.
Thanks so much!
PF videos have saved more than one headache. He's a credit to society.
Spoken like a scholar and a gentleman.
Indeed.
Why would he Change?? 😟😟 HE'S MAKING A FORTUNE= 💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💳💳💳💳💳💳💳💲💲💲💲💲 and He's MAKING WAY MORE NOW STILL. HE'S ADDED WANTING HANDOUTS= 💰💰💰💰💰💰💳💳💳💳💳💳THROUGH HIS PATREON" MONTHLY SO CALLED DONATING!!😒😒😒AS IF HE HE'.REALLY NEEDS IT! SELLS STUFF TOO! RUNS HIS OLDER VIDS' NONSTOP ALL OVER! MILLIONS OF VIEWS ALL OVER NONSTOP ADDS TO MASSIVE MONEY! 💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💳💳💳💳💳💳💳💲💲💳💲💲💲💲💲
This should be one of the channels that deserve the patreon sponsorship.
Thank you!
@@normanmcneal3605 ....... what.... the.... fuck.... are you talking about?
@@BigBird629 ok. If freedom loving “ citizens” would stop voting for those that tax individuals out of the extra cash we would have to help out? We would all be independently wealthy with no needs. I know it’s hard for most to fathom, especially those that have to include “ fuck” into the question. Public indoctrination
Agreed. And one of the only channels I would actually become a patreon of. No sponsors, no paid promotions, no bs. Not even a bias! He uses Supertech or amazon so hes just using an affordable no name brand which is great. Love this channel
This video dispelled a myth that I’ve heard forever and saved me a bunch of time and money. Thanks.
Add that to the others.
1. Old cars are safer
2. Not changing your oil every 3000 miles is bad
3. Fram make the best oil filters
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k I still do 10k oil changes on my hybrid and has 200k miles on it runs fine
This went far beyond any testing I expected to see from this video. There was so much information that I had to rewatch some segments. Truly impressive channel.
Thank you!
Todd actually reads and responds to comments which is amazing
This kind of information is hard to find or doesn't even exist in a textbook anywhere. You are literally unlocking the mysteries of the universe.
Thanks for watching.
LOL! I second that!
I respect the effort of Project Farm alot but you're wrong. There are actually ALOT of more accurate tests in more realistic scenarios with a better scientific background and scientific methods. Doesn't mean that the work of Project Farm is bad or not meaningful. Just saying that you should actually learn how to use google properly before you make such statements.
@@NomNomNom1989 no sense of humor. Don’t be so serious... it’s a funny comment!
@@Eric_B im german so what did you expect from me?
Almost 1 - MILLION Subscribers and he doesn't even beg for them with each video!!!
Thank you very much! I figure people will subscribe if they enjoy channel. Thanks again!
I just now discovered this channel and obviously subscribed. Worth every penny LoL!
Reminds me of me. LoL
@@ProjectFarm so is it
I Love the people who really work hard..
Great test! My dealership was having me change oil every 3k, but new dealership says once a year. Im a recent widow (my husband got 439,000 out of his 95 Dakota and did all the maintenance and repairs on our vehicles) and have to rely on yt and research. I appreciate your work and attention to detail.
Thanks and you are welcome! I extend to you my deepest sympathy on the loss of your husband.
You should still change it every 3,000 miles if it is conventional oil, or 5,000 if synthetic, but you don’t need to change it every 3-6 months. Still change it based on operating miles. Dealerships will tell you more miles, but more than about 5,000 can cause damage, longer term.
@@Tir220 THANK YOU! PREACH!!!!!! IM TIRED OF THE ONCE PER YEAR RECOMMENDATIONS
I do agree on determining the oil change based on the driven miles. The only thing more accurate would be to have an hour meter! I think that the 1 year thing is probably a fairly good estimate on the milage on a regular daily driver in a year being close to the 5000km mark. Just guessing at stuff!
jenny I am a mechanic, it will not hurt your car to do it at 3,000 but if it is a newer car it is wasteful cars, like people need more care as they age, an average car will be ok with 7,000 miles until you hit about 70,000 miles then you should shorten it, over 100,000, 3,000 miles will keep it going, also the more miles you have, go up on the viscosity
I' ve always believed the " once a year regardless of milage" oil change was a way just to sell more oil. I change the oil based on mileage or operating hours on my vehicles and tractors. All have had long lives with no wear problems. So many people are throwing away good oil thinking they are prolonging the life of their vehicles. You proved them wrong. Thanks for the test.
Thanks for the feedback
My car manual says that but I think that's to make you check your oil and to cover the car manufacturer's butt.
@@LiveType Not really , it tends to clump after some time.
Left my Shell Rotella T6 eight years and came back to find the crank had filled with gas, displacing the oil. Crap. Stuff like this happens when operating over the year too, so it really depends.
Changing your oil only once per year is okay if you don't drive a vehicle. For those of us who do, please don't let what this person thinks dictate your oil change schedule. You change it when the oil is spent. You can see by the color, viscosity and texture. Dark brown, non-see through, slight smell. Change it. Don't need to look at the odometer. That oil will stay tan and see through for a few decades if left in the garage, so the amount of time matters little. Each engine is different. Oil types are different. Some have older seals that allow blow by and burning of oil will require more frequent oil changes due to the amount of particulate in the oil. Once that particulate count gets too high, the viscosity decreases, and that same amount of oil is not as effective. It's easy to tell in 2 steps. 1. Find oil dipstick 2. if oil is black, change it.
You’ll love this Mr. Todd. I went to pick up an order from the local AMSOIL warehouse the other day and asked them to arrange it in a box so I could ship it. The guy asked “is it a gift for Christmas”? I told him I was sending it to a TH-camr that I send products to just as little gifts now and then. He perked up and said “ is it for project farm!!?” I told him who it was for and that you buy all of your own products to be fair. They all love your oil shootout videos!
You do a great job, factual and demonstrated results with no drama or gossip. Its very refreshing these days.
Thanks so much!
i'm only on 3 hours of sleep right now. These videos are so important to watch. learning so much. thank you
You're very welcome!
press pause. go to bed. watch tomorrow. peace
Thank you. The unbiased information that you provide is extremely rare. I really appreciate everything you do.
Thank you for the feedback!
@@ProjectFarm interesting facts about leading oils, must see!!! th-cam.com/video/g7Tc-YkJRxk/w-d-xo.html
@@ProjectFarm Could you do a video comparing 0w20 to 5w30 oils? The Toyota 3UR-FE V8 specs anywhere from 0w20 to 20w50 depending on country. The US specs only 0w20 while the Middle East and Australia can use 5w30.
@@Joe333x Maybe the variation is due to ambient temperature? I understand parts of the U.S. sees temperatures below freezing. In Australia, thats very rare. However we often have high temperatures, so we have to deal with that.
Good to know that for retired people like me that don't drive much (under 4000 miles a year), that using high quality full synthetic oil, the annual oil change is good enough. Also good to know that if you go 13 months, say, vs. 12 on occasion between oil changes, no big deal with low mileage.
Thanks for the energetic testing efforts you do. Subscribing and thumbs up.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
My wife's car(Synthetic) has 5000km in a year, that's 3,125mi. Do you think it's time to have oil changed?
@@JesseMgala it's generally a good idea but it depends if you are in a humid climate, if the humidity wasn't terrible in the last year just check to see if the oil level dropped. If it dropped I'd just change it but if nothing was lost you could go a bit longer I think. I usually change one of my vehicles I dont drive much yearly due to the high humidity even though its parked in a garage just to be on the safe side and because I'm picky.
@@VintageCars999 We're in Toronto, Canada.
Do a Blackstone oil test. It's cheap. The report comes back with advice about if going longer is better. You might find that 2-year changes are safe.
Someone actually analyzed a collection of anonymized Blackstone data and found that frequent oil changes actually produced more wear than than infrequent (until you reach the point the oil is so degraded that it begins to cause wear). The person doing this analysis wasn't sure why that pattern of new-oil wear was in the data. It could have been new oil dislodging contaminants which caused wear before being trapped in the filter? It was interesting that "more" isn't better that way. Changing every 3 months (which some "severe" schedules call for even when low miles) was worse than going a full year.
A car's warranty is one thing to keep in mind. If it calls short-trip driving "severe," and you find through your own oil analysis that you can go 12-18 months between changes without any signs of degradation... you could find yourself in a tough spot if you have a warranty claim. You'd think the analysis reports would stand as proof. But, some car makers will use anything to get out of a claim. So, saving a little on oil changes might not be worth the fight, and voiding a warranty.
I really like your testing style... no assumptions, no personal years of experience, no nonsense...
Like always no beating around a bush... pure a simple hard core testing....
Glad to hear! Thanks for watching.
The most trusted channel on TH-cam. This thanks is way overdue. Thanks!
Thanks for supporting the channel! I really appreciate it!
It's been a year video, but still helps unanswered question for many. Totally respect your effort and time doing this experiment. Hands down the best auto tester channel
This video was years in the making... thats why PF is awesome!
Thank you for the feedback
... you've confirmed what I've thought for many years... 'change your car oil every year regardless'... what a load of old tosh... PF, you really are providing an excellent service for all of us with these in great in depth tests... keep up the good work, cheers!
if you have a paper end cap filter you want to change it at lest twice a year other wise you will have old filter sludge in your oil system..
I have been a member since the near begging of this channel. Love the genuine honestly in all the tests. Great channel.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Absolutely fantastic testing! Hard to dispute the lab results. That truck is in great shape for its age! I like that oil filter cutting tool.
Thank you very much! The truck is my baby, although I do work the truck hard when its time to go to work. By the way, you've got amazing content on your channel!
I think the tool could have been a pipe cutter
@@levivaughan3434 it’s a special filer cutting tool.
I use Airwolf Filter Corp cutter every 50hr on aircraft filters.
Open filter media and run a magnet across the folds while doing a close visual.
That and trending a spent oil lab analysis will give you a good idea how things are functioning.
As a 25+ year mechanic, I really appreciate your comment about letting your engine come up to operating temp once a month to disperse any moisture. I have long believed that "time intervals" for oil changes were a joke/propaganda. I have always advised my family & customers to go by hours/mileage as long as the engine was operated at normal operating temp every 4 to 5 weeks.
Thank you very much and great advice!
I can not understand the term "normal operating temp" i have a new VW PASSAT that have an oil temp reading (not the water coolent temp) in the instrument cluster. If i drive gently for long distances it average 97 in summser and 92 in winter. If driven (reved) little harder in sport mode it reach 102 in summer. So my question is: should I bring the oil temp above 100 centigrade (boiling temp) or just the max temp of a gentle long run? They are way different temp from each other. Thank you
@@TubesWidener oil does not boil at 100 C. Water does at sea level and under certain barometric pressure.your oil should be fine upto an even higher C. Check oil manufacturer data.
I replace my oil when i dont like the color ...black.thats it.£30 per year and only 4 L .I can live with that both environmentally and financially.we tend to overcomplicate things.
Best
Mick
@@TubesWidener ...then normal operating temp. for your car is approx. 95 Celsius on the instrument gauge (obviously the sensor's position is the reason why it is so low) so use that value.
@@solkim133 But it's water that must evaporate from the oil. Obviously the oil in his Passat gets much hotter than 100 Celsius, I don't know where the "German Engineers" placed the oil temp. sensor to read that low. I drove an Audi years back and the oil temp. gauge was at over 150 Celsius.
Todd, I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw this video today, because this is the question I asked you in the comments of a previous video! Thank you so much you made this video.
This is Exactly like my case at the moment - my car oil is full synthetic at 1900 miles (3000 km) and is like yours - 17 months old. I change my oil myself because I find it satisfying experience and planned to change it in the spring when it is warmer. One day I spent a day researching the Internet whether I should change my oil around the one year mark but I could not find anything - everybody said that it should be changed once a year (for the synthetic) because it was written on the bottle... Also in the car forums was popular the opinion that the oil no longer has the lubrication properties, that it contains water/moisture, fuel and it is bad for the engine. However these were all peoples assumptions and absolutely zero tests, experiments, or facts, only opinions or writings from oil bottles. So knowing this rumors and legends I started to avoid driving my car because I false knew the engine oil is bad and I am going to damage the engine life.
I drive the car couple of times a month and reaching operating temperature every time. Yes, I knew that the engine oil is not good as new, that the oil condition depends whether is city or highway driven and on other conditions. However until now I haven't seen any tests to show whether such low mile oil will ruin the engine if passed the annual change mark.
So thank you so much Todd, that you myth busted this the one year mark for a low miles oil and brought light to this topic! With hand on my heart I am saying that this is one of the Best channels on youtube! Thank you and Merry Christmas!
Thank you very much! Merry Christmas!
This was such good news to hear about oils being good after 12 months. My fiancé drives a 2004 Toyota Camry only about 3000 miles every year. It is driven at least once or twice a month so the oil gets up to temp periodically. We keep the battery charged with a CTEK charger as well. I didn't do the oil change for nearly 21 months when we hit 5000 miles and the maintenance required light came on. This tells me the oil will be good for the time that we drive between oil changes. We haven't experienced any adverse issues so far and use high quality synthetic oil. Thank you Project Farm for putting out an incredible and informative video.
Thanks and you are welcome!
I have a Mustang V8 that's rarely driven. I change the motor oil once every other year. No problems.
I still own a Toyota Tacoma 2004 with 300 thousand miles on its and still running around, no problem with engine yet, I always take it to the dealer and the dealer put a new chassis on it for free,
why woul you EVER CHARGE YOUR BATTERY? ive never heard of this,,it has an alternator that does it!THIS IS NONSENse!
@@geoestrada5001 a new chassis? what?
21 years of Amsoil annual oil changes and I've never had any issue. Oil level is the same after 1 year as it was the day I changed it. Less time wasted, less cost, super convenient!
Thanks for sharing.
Wow impressive
Amsoil does not have brand specs codes on it's packaging, why not. I use Liqui Moly or Motul, with specific mfgs specs listed on bottles, it makes a difference...if the spec is not listed, means it wasn't tested to meet the mfgs specs for emissions, buildup etc..ie VW Porsche, Audi specs, Vw has codes like 502,504 505 506 507, weigh alone is not the true spec
I am a retired Heavy Mechanic, Used to work for Greyhound Bus lines in The Calgary Alberta shop [500 buses] we began testing synthetic oils on
Select Buses in 1978, the wintertime in Calgary would require the Buses to be running 24hours a day, even when parked, due to extreme freezing temps., as you can imagine, these buses would go through Extreme duty most of their service life.
What we found through much testing and Laboratory back up, The Oil did not break down at service intervals. The Filtration was the Issue.
We found that Changing the filters [oil and Air} on a more frequent basis, e.g. Skip every other oil change but change out Filters, was giving Satisfactory results. Whether it was Natural or Synthetic did not matter.
End result: Change your filters more often, and don't worry about the Oil as much, since filtration is the key.
I have always run my vehicles on this method ever since and have never suffered any negative consequences.
Kinda makes you think, Why the service manuals instruct us to change the oil every XXX Miles or Klms.
So save your Money on Oil, and Change your Filters Often. Thanks for all your Vids, And i wish you and yours, the very best of the season.
Al
I remember my Dad bought a Jeep Cherokee new in 1976, he started using Mobil 1 synthetic in it which said something like 25,000 miles on the can but he always changed the filter something like every 5,000 miles.
That's because the automakers and the oil companies are in bed together.
@@philyip4432 void warranty?
how do we change the oil filter without spilling all the oil . I also live in calgary!
@@fishertech just use a drip pan underneath, then remove filter, and replace along with 1 liter of fresh oil.
This guys deserve a trillion subs, what an effort. Thx alot
You are welcome!
A TRILLION?!??
Yes
you answered a question that plagues everyone who has a car that sits a lot. thank you. may you be blessed.
You are welcome!
I don't even need to change the oil on my jeap, just the filter!
It drains itself, I just need to keep the level correct....
Same on my Mustang
Probly, but I'm not pullin' the trans until spring!
(leaky rear main seal)
Back in the early 70s a buddy had an old Chevy van from the early 60s and that is exactly what he used to do.
Fun story. I work as a parts salesman and an old timer would make the trip to the store every 6 months or so to pick up parts and a lot of oil for his shop and haul it back up north in his late 90s f150. He overheard us talking about needing an oil change and mentioned that hes never changed his oil in his truck for the last 15 years. I asked him to elaborate and he said that he drills small holes in the bottom of the oil filter to slowly drain out oil and he tops it up every few days so he always has fresh oil. I laughed thinking it was a joke and the other guy working with me has known the older gentleman for 30+ years assured me that hes telling the truth. So after the old guy pays up and left i took a look where he was parked and sure enough there was a little bit of fresh oil on the ground. seems crazy to me but that truck has made thousands of kilometers in terrible northern road conditions and weather without ever changing the filter or oil.
LOL
The mistakes I made many years ago was not to pull a vacuum through a PCV valve to draw moisture quickly back through the carburetor to expel the high moisture content , thinking a cleaner fuel air combustion was more important , maybe in drag racing but not as a street driver ! You pretty much covered what I learned over the years , thanks as always !
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
Fun Fact: You can clearly see in the video that the freezer is not set to -40degF but to -40degC.
Does not matter, as -40 is the only temperature where Degree C = Degree F
... agree. The race track was room temperature though which kinda screwed up the experiment...
@@f.d.6667 not really since the oils were all subjected to the same conditions.
@You Wish Would be okay with me.
@You Wish Because Rankine exists, clearly superior.
That's absolutely correct! At -40, Fahrenheit is the same as Centigrade.(Celsius) It's the only point of crossover on the thermometer.
First time I have watched one of your videos and have to say I'm impressed by the level of thoroughness you install in your tests. Very informative. Thank you
Thanks and you are welcome!
I have over a dozen cars, many that see less than 1k miles a year and always go back and forth how often the oil needs changed. I’ve been looking for a test like this for years. Excellent video and very informative. Thanks for the great video!
Thank you for the feedback
Same with me, I'll change every two years regardless of miles on oil.
I think I’m going to start going every two years now. When I go to do my annual oil change, the oil always looks new and feels like a waste
@@mikedubasak5280 Thats BS, fresh oil will change its color from honey-yellow to brownish in a couple 100 miles. You can see it in the video, when he cooked the oils. So dont tell us, your oil looks like new... Youve probably never seen it yourself...
That seemed like a dicky and unnecessary comment, especially on Christmas...
He cooked the oil at 400 degrees to replicate extreme conditions, oil in a motor is typically right around 250 degrees. Color is a little subjective, especially when your looking at it on a dipstick. The only oil that is black right away (at least in my experience) is in an old ford 7.3 diesel truck I have. In a well maintained good running motor, oil doesn’t change very quick, especially in newer cars. Again, in my situation, oil I’m looking at oil less than 1000 miles in a car that is sitting in a garage. Maybe if a motor is really tired, it would be black pretty quick. Again, just sharing my experiences as a mechanic of 15 years.
Been using T6 on my Cummins 5.9 fir the las 14 years and today I’m celebrating my good choice of oil. Thumbs way up PF!
Thanks!
Dude you have the holy grail of trucks. That 2nd gen is immaculate with low miles!!
Thanks!
Aha!! The secret to a Dodge truck’s long life is low miles.
I've given up on finding one for a price that isn't insane. I just did the next best thing and swapped a built Ford 300 six (the one with forged internals that were put in dump trucks) into a gas 4 speed F-250 that had an oil burning problem.
@@gregnixon1296 the secret to long life dodges is a well taken care of Cummins. More trucks over a million miles than the other 2 diesel competitors combined
@@devilselbow along with every other brand. Ask me how I know
I bought a new Ford Ranger in '03. 3.0 V-6 engine. When the warranty was up, I put it on an annual oil change. Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W/30 and Motorcraft filter. I would average 10 to 12 K. per year when it was my daily driver to work. The truck has 196K on it now. I recently replaced a leaking valve cover gasket and the valve springs, head, and valve cover were spotless. I have been retired for years and the yearly mileage has declined. But still once a year on everything I own. I love your videos! Very good unbiased and useful info.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I change oil on my four small engines every other year. They range in age from 30 to 40 years old and still run well when needed. I’ve had issues but not with parts contacting oil. Thanks for your good work!
You are welcome!
Sounds like thats more of a testament to the build quality of the engines, rather than the oil. That or they have extremely low hours and light use. Ask an actual professional landscaper, builder, etc. NOTHING lasts that long under regular heavy use.
@@Doomzdayxx I'm not a profession so you raise a good point. My use is limited to less than 200 hours per year for the most used engine.
This is simply one of the best channels on TH-cam!! Thank you sir for all the great content you produce. I loved the oil races!!!
Thank you very much!
I think I just discovered a new category of entertainment: oil racing.
lol Thanks for watching.
You should check out the marblelympics 😅
@@ProjectFarm Huge respect for coming back to 1 year old videos and checking what the viewers say. It's rare to see creators genuinely care about quality, precision and feedback from viewers. Love the content! Unique features and reviews of items that genuinely mater to the people.
Next year, drifting will be added
@@Bremend he'll stand in the middle and blow real hard to see how they handle curves
My truck/tractor sat for 7 yrs, 5 years without starting. It had T6 with 5k miles on it. I started it & ran it for 30 miles. Took the oil sample. Sent it to Polaris. The test was good with slightly high lead they said wasn't a problem and that was it. They said run it for 3k miles & retest. (At this time know one can find T6). Your vids are a great help.
Thanks!
11:50
So here is the important info...
Make sure the engine reaches
1. "Full Operating Temperature"
2. "Once a month".
Thank you!
@@ProjectFarm For how long should I get it at full operating temp? And what if I did not reach operating temp at least once a month? Change the oil every 6 months? Thanks!
Probably some of the best advice posted! More engines ruined by moisture in engines
What if we rev the engine and do hard acceleration in cold weather to warm up. India is actually having a very mix and changing weather.
@@maubilla Dont, revving hard on a cold engine causes blown headgaskets. wait till the temp is on the guage for cars/trucks. for air cooled engines just warm it up till you feel heat on the cylinders side with your hand...
heat up a thin frying pan to fast and it will warp just like a head being heated too fast.
I don't know how you have time to do all of these amazing videos but I'm glad you do. Keep them coming. I've learned so much from you. Thank you!
Thank you very much!
I love the way you logically test different oils, wipers, drill bits, etc.
This is wonderful information and I am glad I found your channel.
Thank you very much!
Really good to know, since retirement, I only put 1,000 - 2,000 miles per year on my vehicles and now I can change the oil once every two years with a premium oil filter installed. Thanks again for your great videos !!!
You are welcome!
I'm doing my 67 Nova 283 oil and filter change after 4 yrs of use :) I drive it like 20 times a yr around my area.
@@williamcrazylacyfurmage9953 I left oil in a parked Integra for 5 years. Ran great.
@@edwil111 quality of oil has nothing to do with how a vehicle runs.
I remember when I first subscribed to this channel, and it barely had any subs. So glad to see all of the success here.
Thank you very much!
Hands down one of best TH-cam pages.
100%
Ya old news bucko
One of the best content creators on youtube! I really enjoy watching this channel!
Yes it is!
Your dodge is a gem! Low miles 12v cummins are very difficult to find.
Thank you
Rust free are less common. I see 5 yr old dodges with rotten out rockers.
Most of them are beet all the Hell by high school kids
Man that thing is a beaut!! 12v 5.9L, legendary engine.
The cummins engines are the best quality part of those trucks. The rest ... is Dodge.
I'm going to start changing my gas guzzlers at mileage instead of time since I don't drive them very often. Thanks, Todd!
Thanks for the feedback. You are welcome!
Changing your oil based on time is like a carpenter using his hands as a tape measure ..... it doesn't make much sense.
@@danaoberlander5754 I changed them both annually as I only average between 2k and 3k per vehicle. Knowing this, I can postpone the interval a bit longer and save a little money and elbow grease.
Just be careful about Moisture and age.
Yeah, I think as long as you're getting up to normal operating temps for several miles at a time, then you should be ok.
Thank you! I'm putting less than 10K miles on my truck per year as I work from home. I was wondering about the 1 year limit for oil that I've heard about. Glad to see it is a myth. I always use pure synthetic. Mileage is another issue, but with modern metallurgy and lubricants I believe it safe to say that the 3K mileage limit is a myth.
Thanks for the feedback.
3K mi. oil changes are from decades ago, before synthetic oils were available. Synthetics go 10K mi.
@@joevarga5982 highly depends on the car and driver. No oil is going to last long in a small turbo engine with a 3.5 liter capacity you redline all the time
@@gigel99324 "No oil is going to last long in a small turbo engine with a 3.5 liter capacity you redline all the time"
Sooo... you cherry-pick a severe-duty application to prove that I'm wrong? Lol.
The traditional 3,000 oil change interval was STANDARD, GENERAL-PURPOSE advice for EVERYDAY typical use for AVERAGE people from back in the day. OF COURSE you'd have change more frequently for severe duty applications.
@@joevarga5982 I'm beginning to agree. Scotty says change every 3k, but I've got 5k on my oil now and it's still clean. Not spotless, but can clearly see the dipstick. Do you personally go 10k on synthetic?
I've always followed once a year or every 7,500 miles, whichever is first. Part of it is doing your research and learning which cars/engines have known oil issues like sludging or oil burning. Those you want to change more often.
Thanks for the feedback.
When I was working in a highly stressful environment, I could not find the time/energy to change my oil for 2-1/2 years.
I drove my 1999, 6cyl, 4.0L Jeep XJ for 25,000 miles over that span of time on conventional oil. (If I remember correctly, I did add a couple of quarts during that run). Years later it's still running great, but I'm back on an annual conventional oil & filter change schedule.
Time is not relevant
@@hhjhj393 5k mile changes, and full synthetic Valvoline and a synthetic oil filter for me. From what I've heard, 5k is the most commonly recommended oil change interval, but 3k is if you do conventional oil, tow heavy objects, or drive the car very hard. (Also you're probably doing the smarter thing, because the more frequently the better! Lol.)
That's it guys. He said end of discussion. Lol. What a waste. Especially if you're using full synthetic .
Before I make it 10 seconds into the video, I can say for a fact, that oil does not expire. Viscosity doesn’t just disappear. Let’s see if what I’ve always believed is right. Thanks for the videos man!!!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I feel like you have had great quality content for like 2 years now, how you aren't at one million subscribers yet is a mystery.
Thank you very much! It's probably my fault since I don't ask people to subscribe, turn on the bell, etc. Viewers don't need someone else telling them what to do. lol. Thanks again!
@@ProjectFarm A-PLUS!
I don’t hit the bell for anybody (I get enough spam emails as it) but new PF videos always appear on the top slot of my recommended tab!
@@ProjectFarm 1.67M 😂
ALL the "thumbs down" are from JIFFI LUBE owners.
Lmao DIY squad
@@bobespnza-la7030 Or Chevron employees LoL .
@@whip-its_dad4239 I don’t even think they know about this oil lol
Just stay away from supertech oil. Even the full synthetic is sus, on the package they depend on you not reading properly it doesnt say it meets or exceeds the standards, it says "use where you would use products that meet or exceed the standards", in other words they never themselves met or exceeded those standards, or they would say so.
621 thumbs down. I don't get it. Why ?
There's very few channels on YT worth watching, but I always get excited when a new Project Farm video pops up in my feed! Informative and non-biased testing is hard to come by when it comes to oil/filters.
Thanks so much!
When I was a young guy I worked for Shell Oil. There was an area in the operation where they would make engine oil and near by there was a container filling area. Since I was moved around quite a bit I got to see many aspects of the operation. In the filling area I saw the same product poured into different containers from 1 qt size to 55 gal drum size. The names of those products were SHELL, AGWAY, PENZOIL, QUAKER STATE, and a few others I can't remember just now.
Thanks for sharing.
I, too, have worked for a lubricant oil factory, and it's pretty amazing how much the different oils are the same.
Four different 5W-30s, but basically all of them identical. They might use one adative or the other, but the bases are the same. Speaking with the chemists there (QA chemists, not development chemists), they shrugged when I asked why I should choose the one oil over the other. All of the measured data were basically within each others' tolerances. They didn't want to say that they guarantee that they're the same, but they couldn't understand why an engine would suffer or last longer using the one 5W-30 over the other.
OEM-labels were also fun. They didn't claim to do something different than the base-label, but they always used more "creative" language to upsell you on their oil.... that's exactly identical to the other.
"Duff vs Duff Lite" moment
Bullshit....
@@joeybuddy96 don't forget duff dry! 😆
I base a lot of my purchases probably 90% off of this channel
Thank you
10/10 is not for entertainment purposes only. I mean, I would never watch these videos and consider them as a basis for making a real life decision. But man, that Diablo carbide sawzall blade will cut stainless steel all day long!
@अल्ली X 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Me too... :)
Me too
My dad was a truck driver for 55 years before he retired a few years ago. He had driven just about every truck, engine combination you can imagine. The last truck he drove he was an owner operator and he would only put Rotella in it. I remember him saying that of all the oils he ever used it held the best oil pressure right up until the time it was time to change it. The truck had a 60 series Detroit in it and at the time of retirement it had 2,400,000 miles on it with two in frames one each at 1,000,000 miles. The truck was new when he purchased it so the engine had only ever seen Rotella.
Thank you for sharing!
2.4 million miles, thats insane.
@@lunathecutest6652 Little bit. Feel for the guy.
you just saved me a butt load of money, and I didn't even have to switch to Geico
And the video was less than 15 minutes
Nice 👍
That’s funny!
How many insurance companies claim you can save a bunch of money switching to them.
Changing engine oil is not a buttload of money lol.
You rock bro. The detail you go through with timing, temp, wear testing is unmatched and gives credible verification to the results vs simple anecdotal testimony....but my favorite video was when you turned motorhome into tree stump extractor. Haven't watched it in a couple years but just smiled thinking about it.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Just now coming up on my one year oil change mark... you just saved me some money! Thanks for the great video!!
Thank you for the feedback
I could watch these oil tests for hours. Nice to know when I still had my diesel trucks that the T6 was more than adequate.
Thank you very much!
Wow. I'm always very impressed on all the tests you make on everything. Plus all your videos you throw extremely usefull information.
This is one of my few A+ channels.
Thanks so much for the great effort with the apropiate enginnering plus intelligence included on everything you make.
You are a truly wise person.
Thanks so much!
Could u test Mobil 1
What the HELL would all of us do without YOU!!!! And you use your own cars for tests that could go bad.....God Bless ya and thanks for all you do.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Since you brought up oil bath air cleaners in the video: I've heard a LOT of old timers tell me oil bath was better at filtration than foam or paper media filters. Even heard one go as far to say that air filter companies launched a conspiracy to end oil baths just to sell more filters to farmers. Would be a cool test to see air flow and filtration efficiency between oil bath and other types of air filters.
Johndeere167 TV
Oil bath very good
paper air filters are very good at filtration and low restriction. oil filter baths are good at filtration but have much higher restriction. at least thats what i heard. i have seen many aftermarket air filters with dirt past the filter so i dont trust them (there are better ones out there however)
My john deere tractors I have from the 40s and 50s with no over hauls to my knowledge run good yet so oil bath has to be pretty good
Oil baths are great at catching coarse to moderate sized particulate, but not finer stuff. Older engines could deal with this, modern ones can't. The other big factor: turbochargers. Not a good idea to be sending oil vapour through them!
Oil bath filters are extremely good at keeping particulate out of your engine, especially for dust and dirt, which is a lot more common on farms than it is for your car to experience most likely.
I would love to see this kind of test about new vs old coolant! It's great how in depth your analysis always is.
Great suggestion!
Great video and suggestion. GM had some bad head gaskets on older models. Curious if acidic old antifreeze could have caused additional corrosion beyond the 5 year mark. Tough to establish a control across this time period, and compare head gasket corrosion.
They had Intake gasket problems maybe that's what u ment !!
Oil and steel are one thing, water and steel another. Then there is aluminum which has some wild reactions with chemicals. I would not keep antifreeze in there much beyond the recommended. I did that and the impeller on the water pump in my 85 Toyota pickup completed rotted out causing overheating.
I would like to see that too, I am a pro mechanic, I am advising people with cars that have a sealed cooling system that a coolant flush is not needed, would like to know if I am right
Damn, most comprehensive testing for the everyday consumer to understand without all that “sales” talk from these Oil Companies….
A most excellent dude…
Thanks so much!
Just changed the Honda Accord V6 after 2 years and 5,000 miles. The maintenance minder said it still had 40% life. I only changed it because of always hearing about it has to be changed every 6 months even if you don't reach the mileage limit. I never believed that but was getting paranoid with it goin on 2 years. Now I know better. Thanks for confirming what I always suspected. Didn't know about the running at least once/month to get it up to operating temp. Good to know!
Thanks!
This test is even more relevant in this pandemic. Since I'm now working from home I'm not putting hardly any miles on my car. Normally I'd be changing the oil this spring and have about 5k miles on the oil. This year I'll only have about 1.2k miles. I'm thinking I can go an extra year this time.
Same here. Work from home and only put around 1100 miles in one year.
Only if you run Full Synthetic oil. Conventional oil goes acidic.
@@eurotrash4629 Presumably also dependent on the usage of the vehicle. Or is there actual data proving that natural oil goes acidic and eats away at the engine even when the vehicle is only used occasionally?
@Ian or you could do your own oil analysis and see how your OWN oil is doing after an extended period of time, not just go by someone else's results using a different oil on a different vehicle. Just my $.02, no offense intended.
I put 25k on in one year and i dont even commute for work 🥲
NASA: We need some testing done. Call that Project Farm guy. His testing is far better than ours.
Merry Christmas PF!
Elon musk: I wonder what kind of paint I should use on my next rocket ship..?
Elon musk: better check project farm.
@@TheSlimCognito Which car windows are the best rock resistant?
Lol, Thank you.
I like his methodology.
More like Boeing. Their new spaceship got lost the other day and didn’t make orbit. Not to mention their jet crashing issues and CEO that was just fired.
I'm always impressed by your incredible attention to detail. Your preparation, research, and choice of tests must take months !
It does take quite a few hours.
I’m impressed w/the quality of ur testing. Great work. This one video covered a question I’ve been wanting answered as my wife’s car doesn’t go 4K miles per year. I’ve been using Mobil 1 oil and filter probably for the last 10 years and the car runs flawlessly but I did not know if it was a good idea to do this.
Thanks a lot for giving us the scientific answer!!
Thanks and you are welcome!
You have the most interesting and informative channel on TH-cam. Thank you!
You are welcome!
HE TAKES IN BIG MONIES, FOR IT💰💰💰💰💳💳💳💳💲💲💲💳💲💲💲💰💰💰💰💰💳💳💲💲💲💲💲
@@captainamericaamerica8090 well deserved!!!!
I work as a lubricant engineer and enjoy these kind of well done home made tests.
FYI for all in case those that didn't know, TBN = Total Base Number, TAN = Total Acid Number. I concur with your findings which I believe personally. The oil is good, don't need to change. However some will cling on to the belief because they don't know about oil testings or how to read the results. Some might scoff at doing oil analysis since a bottle of oil might cost similarly. However it is always beneficial because you get to know what's the state of your engine is currently like.
I think corrosion in an unused engine that's seated for a very long time happens more from condensation of water and causing rust.
Thank you for the feedback and great point on the source of corrosion!
I’ve never believed that there is something magical about a year’s time. In fact I’d love to see a 2.5 year test.
How does that make any sense ? Old engines that use would Explode way before 21/2 years! ,DUH !.
I change my truck's oil once a year. 4000 miles +/-. My RV only gets 1200 miles per year + 20 minute start and warm up monthly, so I change that every 3 years. Hasn't been a problem.
the collection of iron filings would start cutting into the internals of the engine.
@@bigfoot14eee99 start up and warming without driving is actually worse than not. Engine oil will take forever to warm up by idling and the amount of moisture is created gets in the exhaust and oil is scary. Just let the engine sit if you know you will not be driving the vehicle for at least 20-30 minutes.
@@Hathrandir Wrong, anything damaging will be collected by the engine filter. Plus we are talking about low hour low mile engine oil that sits not your daily short trip engine oil.
I'm going to stop at 0:34 and say what I should have said on another video of yours: that Dodge is sharp. I had an 02 just like that, 2500, Cummins, white, extended cab, long bed, bought new. Yours is in way cleaner shape than mine ever was after about 5 years.
Thanks!
🏍Please do a Motorcycle/ATV engine oil showdown. You have done a lot of other things on this channel and was great but I really believe that this would be a popular topic in the TH-cam community. Thanks and Merry Christmas!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Just run Rotella T6 and call it a day. That's literally what everyone else in this comment section does, including myself. You won't find a better oil for small engines with wet clutches.
Thank you for the video idea!
Project Farm Please include the Motul 7100 fully synthetic 10W40, for egoistic reasons :p
But really with all this positive feedback on rotella id really want to see wether a change of brand would be worth it!
@@JeremySchoeder Just as an fyi, a couple of years ago, Shell changed the formula for the Rotella line of oil, and added in some additional friction modifiers. This is not a good thing for motorcycle wet clutches. I only noticed this when my clutch started to slip, and I called my clutch company (Rekluse). They were the ones who used to say use the Rotella oil. They no longer recommend it due the the added friction modifiers. Still a great oil, just not for bike anymore.
Absolutely
So straightforward, no BS, gosh this channel is gold!
Keep up the good work!
Thank you for the feedback!
Definitely gotta be one of the greatest TH-cam channels here. Thanks again for sharing this fantastic information!
Thanks so much!
I think it would be very interesting to see you put super frozen oils in the wear tester similar to a real cold start. Maybe figure out how to limit the flow of oil like an engine would have
Thanks for the suggestion.
That's irrelevant why would you want to freeze the oil beyond its capability.......
One thing I've learned working at a lube shop is how important it is to double-check oil levels when doing a new filter. Even with smaller filters, it's common to need add another half quart when the filter is saturated. Even if you pre-fill the filter, it's best to double-check
Thanks for the feedback.
As long as the oil is above the add line you are fine. 1/2 a quart below the full line is not an issue.
Yes, I noticed that, just a day after I had the oil changed ...at the dealer.
Your reviews and analysis segments are second to none sir. Thank you so much for so many comprehensive installments shared.
You are welcome!
You've really done a great job of improving and expanding your videos over the last year.
Thank you very much!
I got 210.000 mile on my 07 Ford freestyle with 3 oil changes. It don't leak it don't smoke and it hasn't turned thick. Never added any. I figured it would blow up 150.000 ago but. What a great car
Thanks for sharing.
Keep up the good work
Thank you!!
@@ProjectFarm Don't change a thing how you make these videos,very detailed and informative.Much appreciated.
All the old farmers were right......rotella is hard to beat
Thank you for the feedback
My grandma only uses Rotella in everything, gas or diesel.
Amsoil beats it any day. But rotella is easy to come by and price is great
Rotella FTW
I recently started to use rotella 10w60 in my m5
I used T6 in my 2004 jeep grand cherokee for the first time a month ago, based on recommendations from a jeep forum, I guess they were right and you proved it! It actually increased my gas mileage by 3 miles per gallon and is a quieter motor. Merry Christmas, Sir, may your next year be fun and good. Amen.
Thank you for the feedback
So what oil were you running before? Same viscosity? Thanks.
@@melrobinson6919 10w30, castroil.
@@gristlevonraben Thanks. I'm going to try T6 in my 01 7.3 Powerstroke next oil change since this vid indicates it is slightly superior to the Chev Delo Full Syn I've been using.
@@melrobinson6919 awesome, just remember, they come only by the gallon, unless you are lucky enough to find a few quarts somewhere, so basically, you have to buy two gallons. They can be really cheap if you look around, though.
I would really like to see some tests done on ATF. Old vs new etc. Keep up the great work.
I've got 2 cars that have never had an ATF change.. one is 22 years old and has 200K miles, the other is 11 years old and has 150K miles on it..... both drive and shift like new.
Either change it often or don't bother. Dk why but have felt multiple vehicals seem to get stuck in neutral on low rpm shifts than slam into gear. It's super odd. Also flushes are the worst thing you can ever do.
@@TedSchoenling Must be toyota right?
I’m a firm believer in dump and fills. When I buy a new used vehicle; one of the many things is switching the atf to a favourite brand ( works out to be 1/2 the total fluid) and again in a few months to be 70%new. I did notice on my last 2 the transmission’s operated way better than I could think. It also gave me peace of mind, knowing what oil, the brand and the care involved with this maintenance.
Nobody dives into ATF! Hummm?
You're the best mythbuster I've ever seen, and it helps us a lot! 👏👏
Thank you very much!
Helps the environment too!
Great video! This channels answers all the questions Google can't.
Thank you!
My speculation has been confirmed! That clarification is invaluable! Many thanks and Merry Christmas to you and yours!
I fill my horizontal-mounted oil filters to saturate the filter element prior to installation. Installing them dry, in my opinion, delays oil flow at start-up until the paper element absorbs the oil, which takes a second or two. Next time you change your oil, pour oil in the filter and watch how long it takes for the element to absorb it, especially large filters.
Thanks for sharing.
There is no reason to dislike these videos. Thanks for the videos man.
Thank you!
Every time I have a conversation with my friend he says that project farm has u well informed you bet keep up man
Nice! Thank you!
Definitely need to do this test on a gasoline engine and see if there’s any difference
Thank you for the video idea!
I am curious to see lab results comparing metal wear rates in a gasoline engine. Maybe rottela T5 10w-30 vs motorcraft 10w-30 (both are synthetic blend) after 5000 miles in a gas engine. This would be huge.
Thanks for all the great information. Just as I suspected!
@@ProjectFarm gonna do this idea soon?
@@xlightssx I have a 4.6l v8 mercury grand marquis. In the owners manual here in mexico it says use 15w40 weight. It hardly drops below 0°c to 38°c on summer here. I use mobil 1 super "conventional" 15w40. I change it every 4 months with my fl 820 motorcraft oil filter. I want to change it every 6 months. My options are 15w40 api sp full synthetic from quaker state or this delo ( SAE 15w40 ) from chevron. Which one will you think it's better? My car is in good condition and the engine burns about 1 quart every 4 months. Thank you.
Mobil super is working good so far. It keeps my engine quiet but I don't trust the brand much to leave it more than 4 months, my driving is commuting daily, might apply to severe use conditions.
I change every 10,000 miles on a Mercedes S550 that requires 13,000 miles changes. BUT it takes me 5 years to put 10,000 miles on. I changed it every 5 yrs with zero problems & it still looks good. Mobile 1 10w-40 🤷♂️👍🏼
Thanks for sharing.
I wish my 12 valve was in such a good shape as yours. 114k on a 96? That truck is worth some money where I'm from. Keep on with the awesome videos!
Nice to see Shell oil products are still the top of the quality scale. My engineering class in 1994 did all of those tests, in our fuel chemistry course, including the ones you sent samples out to the lab to do, and came to the same results. Though we tested 10 different oil brands. Shell oils came out on top back then as well. (automotive, and aviation oils)
Good to know.
Todd, I really appreciate you sending the oils in this project out for official analysis, really makes things official. Nice review
Thanks!
While the oil may have life in it, the danger is sludge buildup which can only be seen/measured by popping the valve covers. This is something that kills the Ford Triton 3valve motors. Even though you could be keeping under the mileage and oil analysis says its good, a removal of valve covers often reveals buildup that will kill modern engines due to their small oil passages
I'd trust the guys who engineered the car and performed testing during the R&D process (as documented in the owner's / service manual) and are on the hook for both the warranties and brand reputation well before anyone else.
Thus the reason to regularly get the engine to temp.