Scotty thinks he knows everything about everything, car expert, ev expert, and everything in between, he’s after views on his channel. This man knows what he’s doing and (unlike Scotty)he still works on cars for a living.
As an auto Tech who has been working on cars for over 30 years, I can tell you that Mr. Ahmad really knows what he is talking about. I have seen so many issues with so called mechanics botching the cartridge oil filter change job. Toyota, in my humble opinion, should bring back the spin on one piece metal filter to All its engine models . Keep it simple Toyota! That is how you became the most reliable car company in the world!
@@robertknight4672 Lol, proceeds to buy a vehicle that leaks oil everywhere but the oil filter. I love Subaru prior to 2018, their tanks, they leak a quart of oil a week after 120k miles and they keep going.
@@shaungranger2166 that was only one reason. I like Subaru's large windows and also it has an infotainment screen that's flushed with the dash I just don't like the ones that stick over the dashboard. In the 2023 Forester still has tactile dials for climate control. And I also like the steering responsive headlights.
Ahmed, this is such an incredibly important message! As I always say, engines and gearboxes are expensive, but fluids aren't. This is just a twice-a-year job, do it right and your Toyota engine will last incredibly long. Thanks for everything that you do for the Toyota community.
@@Breezyaon1 You have no idea what you're talking about. Ahmed tells it like it is. I own a 4Runner and a Tundra and his advice will help me keep them running forever. Toyota's are great vehicles but like everything else, they require common sense maintenance, faithfully performed.
@@Breezyaon1 I think you might be ignoring the part about him taking to time to generate quality content. How miserable do you have to be to make such a comment?
my oem plastic canister cracked and bought a dorman replacement, after watching this, i will replace it immediately. Thank you for always great advice and helping us to get the most out of our toyotas! God bless you sir!!
Toyota made a major mistake by abandoning spin on filters in favor of canister filters. I believe that the company wanted to make oil changes very messy for DIY mechanics. I do NOT trust Toyota dealerships! A service writer told me in 2015 that the 3.5 year old 12V AGM battery in my 2012 Camry hybrid needed to be replaced. I was incredulous and tested the battery at home. It was fine and is still working today over 11.5 years after I bought this Camry, vehicle. I started in servicing my Toyota vehicles using the expert advice on this channel in 2017..In 2018 I purchased a certified 2013 Prius with 36,700 miles. I changed the fluid in my radiator and inverter system two weeks ago at 88,500 miles. I found a jagged small rock and black fragments of it in the spent inverter fluid, suggesting deliberate sabotage! I now have to worry about my inverter system going bad.. Scotty Kilmer calls dealerships stealerships. I could not agree more! Stay away from Toyota dealerships! DIY or find a reputable private shop.
The canister filters are absolute garbage. To your point. The dealerships often over tighten them beyond the 18 ft lbs. in fact i have seen them tighten them the same or more as the Drain bolt. As result they crack and leak. Ahmed says he has never seen one fail cause he uses care but what he does not realize is not everyone is him. I have seen several OEM canister fail but never a spin on unless the gasket is bad. The spin on are cheap, the canister is not! If Toyota makes an OEM metal one for your particular car change it. The plastic is shit. All it takes is one time for the plastic and its trashed !
I dont think enough is said about a mechanic making videos like these. Free advice from a guy that makes his living maintaining vehicles. Showing how to and experience. Thank you. I enjoy watching all your videos.
My wife and I both have a couple of Rav4's (2003 and 2004). The oil filter part number is 90915-YZZF1 for both of them, but I found that the local Toyota dealer had been putting on the 90915-YZZN1 filter on during oil changes. The N1 is shorter than the F1, and I think it's a smaller diameter if I remember right. I couldn't find any information on the internet saying that both were compatible. My wife brought her RAV4 back to them and I mentioned that they were using the incorrect oil filter, so after the oil change they verified on the bill that they put on the F1, but they lied because the N1 is still on the car (or they lied and didn't even change the filter). Either way, I have quit taking it to the dealer and have been changing my own oil and filters ever since.
It's a shame that often a good local mechanic will be much better at carefully serving your car than some apprentice at a dealership, and yet servicing at the dealer looks better on the carfax for resale value.
As soon as I discovered this I would have gone straight to the dealership manager (not the service manager) to complain. Unless you are watching how do you know they are changing the filter..maybe they are just draining the oil and refilling. Also, how often are people charged for synthetic oil and get non synthetic? Its sad you have to resort to hiding a GoPro under your hood so you know what is going on.
@@prule1335 that's a great idea. Wish I had done that..... My old filter was full of metal shavings from assembly. Supposedly they changed it at 1000 miles but no.
You are right. The 90915-YZZF1 is obviously taller than the 90915-YZZN1 which by the way superseded the 90915-YZZF2 but is not a replacement for the 90915-YZZF1.
All great videos! Comment from a perfectionist auto tech for over 35 yrs. Worked a ambulance and limo companies. Always used oem filters and more than a few had over 500,000 with original eng. I was a Chevy guy for the style and v8’s. Now that I’m retired, I have a 2011 Lexus es350 with 74k that is as nice as the mileage. Very low maintenance and love that. Wife has been a Toyota fan for over 25 yrs and good thing cause I was always tinkering with the Chevys. I wish USA manufacturers would make a product like Japan has had. I support our country but logic makes the decision. Keep up the videos. They’re a pleasure to watch.
I wish I had you as my mechanic for my Toyota vehicles!! Great information for your viewers, thumbs up to you and your TH-cam channel. I never miss any new videos you upload.
About canister filters you will not get an experience automotive mechanic at dealerships or quick loop places. To change your oil they're going to send the new kid out there to do an oil change.. he's 18 and 20 years old.. the 30-year-old mechanic is going to be replacing timing belts.. not doing oil changes The experience mechanic is going to be replacing your brakes.. these kids are f****** up millions of Toyota vehicles cuz they're not properly trained or they don't care if they've damaged the bypass valve in the canister.. Toyota should go to spin-ons cuz these kids that they hired to change your oil won't f*** it up..
I have learned so much about care and maintenance for my 2016 Tacoma TRD Sport, and my wife's Lexus 2017 RX 350. But one thing, I'm from 1950, and I love the new technologies in automobiles. I still replace my fluids and filters, but I do have access to lifts. Keep up the good videos.
I am a HUGE Toyota Fan. I recently found your You Tube videos. Honestly you are the most honest and competent mechanic I have ever seen! I have learned so much from you. You seem like a very solid, kind and knowledgeable man. THANK YOU for taking the time to do these videos and educating me and I am sure MANY others!!
Wow, I've been doing my own oil changes for over 50 years and learnt some new things today. My engine is the 2.5 liter 4GR-FSE. It has the aluminium metal canister filter on its side, without the removable center cap. I always wondered what that little plastic tube in the kit was and if I was meant to be installing it somewhere, now I know!! Almost every other car I've owned has had a spin on filter. The only problem I ever had with them was many years ago. In my Datsun 510, a piece of metal flicked up at highway speed and punctured the filter. I may have left the splash panel off. I lost all the oil but fortunately, stopped as soon as the light came on and the engine was ok. Thanks for these great videos, I'm hooked!!
I used to buy FRAM filters if I was cheap, Mobil1 if I had some extra cash. Now, I drive full time and change my oil every 2-4 weeks. I buy the Toyota canister filters from my dealership by the case and use Mobil1 0W-16 for every oil change with no problems at 204,000 miles for my 2020 Camry. I’ve learned so much from your channel and hope this car lasts at least 600,000 miles because that’s when it should be paid off. 😀
Have you had any issues with your Camry? The A25A-FKS engine uses an electric water pump. I’m wondering if people are having issues with it. Have you changed the spark plugs and transmission fluid? I have a 19 RAV4 LE gas model and it has been problem free at 82k miles knock on wood.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q Coolant was changed at 100,000 and 200,000 miles. Transmission fluid was drained and filled at 70,000, 100,000, and 175,000 miles. Car is at 219,000 miles and engine and transmission are fine. Spark plugs are still original.
@@jasonjohnston94 spark plugs original at 219,000 miles? Toyota recommends changing all spark plugs around 120K.....wow you must have added many additives to your gas tank and intake to keep that plug clean...
I just sold my Cummins Ram pickup. I always used Fleetguard filters the ones they recommend. Same deal with my Honda's. I'm older now and have to depend on my dealer's Express Lube. It's wide open for customers to observe from the lounge. The same guys have worked there for yrs and actually do the job correctly. I always tip the guy. I get a full synthetic oil change and Honda filter for $79 otd. I have a 2005 Honda Pilot with 270K. 5K conventional oil and Honda filters.
Been filtration specialist for 8 years (former Toyota car tech / now Toyota forklift tech). I like your approach on how parts inside the filter works. The problem with some aftermarket filter brands is that they tend to use the same bypass valve and filter element for more than one car brand. If the bypass valve opens at a lower pressure on the wrong engine, the oil flow will bypass the filter element longer than intended and even at higher rpm. Stick to OE filters if possible or keep to the well known high quality brands. Here in Europe that would be Mann&Hummel, Mahle, Wix (Napa in USA)etc. Stay away from FRAM group filters especially. And remember that anything made in Japan is quality no matter what it is.
Man... I hope Toyota pays you a stipend for all the time you spend helping us "Toyota Fans" with maintenance questions and tips. You really are an asset to Toyota, and to us. Thank you.
I've recently bought a new Toyota Hybrid, and I honestly find your channel so informative! Especially when the car came with a Japanese user manual, watching your shows helps me better understand the technology behind hybrids. Your channel is great, both professional with some humor chucked in every now and then, can't truly thank you for your time and energy you put into the videos. Also, how you prioritize safety over anything else, is truly a work of art. Thank you again! Watching from New Zealand 🇳🇿🇳🇿
Great informative video. One important point I didn’t see you mention about the canister filter is to make sure you you get the large o-ring in the correct groove on the housing or else it will leak.
Well, since it's an OEM Toyota filter it comes in a box that has directions and illustrations right on the box, but yes, most guys will likely never look at those.
@@mikehand2668 I've been driving 51 years and can honestly say I have NEVER paid anyone to change my oil. My wife, before we married, had her oil changed in her Honda Civic at a quick lube shop, years ago. A few miles down the road the drain plug fell out, and fortunately, she had the sense to stop immediately when the light came on. Unbelievably enough, the employee admitted he only screwed the drain plug in a couple turns, intending to torque it later -- but got distracted. If you want something done right, do it yourself.
@@golden.lights.twinkle2329Just one less thing to go wrong, and it’s also sealed with a thin layer of plastic to keep any contaminants out if stored for long periods of time, and all that for 5 bucks
Started doing my own oil changes and so glad i did.. One day i was like im gonna save some money and it looks pretty simple. I go to untighten my filter housing and drain bolt and ofcourse they're so tight it took me a good 35 minutes of trying everything to loosen/get them off... No more taking it to the mechanic.
I worked as a paramedic firefighter a d approached a female Asian after an accident and she said "not my fault ice!" And she was the 100th car that day of tard after tard after tard u know ?
I took my new Toyota tacoma to village Toyota in Homossa Florida for it's first oil change and the plastic oil filter canister was tighten on so tight, I had to use a breaker bar to get it off! the factory spec tork value is 18 foot pounds, and the dealership had the canister over tighten, carless slobs. I will never trust the Toyota dealerships for nothing except buying parts and recalls!
I do my oil changes on my 06 Tacoma. Love the easy access spin off that sits on the top of the block. Kirkland full synthetic. Use the OEM Toyota filter. Like 7 bucks ... Enjoy the detail
I use Denso Toyota OEM filters but I confess to using the ones specified for the 2.4L on that engine and my 1.8L 1zz-fe. The 1.8L filter is the same diameter and thread pitch but a little shorter. The oil pressure specs are very close at idle and identical at 3K RPM. Never had any trouble. I'm good with the canister on the 2GR but my local Toyota dealer put it on so tight during the "maintenance included" oil changes that even a 2 foot breaker bar wouldn't free it. I used a large impact to get it off without damage. Said dealer also overfilled the oil. Better to DIY or find a good shop like The Car Care Nut's.
I do my own maintenance just for those reasons. Number one, I know exactly what oil is going into the engine, ie the correct viscosity and brand, number two I torque the filter according to specs and not with a freaking impact wrench, number three I use a little TLC such as wiping the dirt from around the oil fill port so it doesn't get knocked in before adding oil. Can pretty much guarantee the dealership will screw one of those up.
@@frankharley1000 Maybe I'm OCD for this but I also take the time to fill the filters/canisters with oil so as to give the engine less time without oil pressure upon startup.
@@frankharley1000 Great info. I also wipe clean the inside of where the oil filter screws on to. I bump the starter 5 or 6 times to build oil pressure before i start the engine. Also I always drain the oil when the engine oil is hot so more of it comes out. It all makes a difference.
My dealer did the same thing. I was afraid I would damage it taking it off, so I took it back to the dealer and had them do it. What is crazy is that the torque specs for the filter is less than the drain plug.
I am a Tacoma person, I had a few of the 3.5 v6 engines, hated those canister filters and also hated that I had to drop the skid plate to do an oil change. Just changed up again and now into a 2022 Tacoma 4x4 with the 2.7, best engine ever and no more dropping the skid plate and no more canister filter, thank God for spin on filters.
I'm with you, dropping the skid plate ony tundra is a pain in the butt and takes two sizes of fasteners. Almost as if a Ford engineer infiltrated Toyota. My 10 Corolla has the cartridge type and I miss the spin on. They can put the cartridge style up their b holes.
I have a 2021 Tacoma 4wd with the SX package. I went with the 4 cyl and love it. Will not win a race, But Very easy to work and and I know it will run for years. So glad I went with the 4 banger,
thanks for your comment I have a 2000 Tacoma with the v6 engine never really had any major issue out of the truck only got 174 thousand miles on it still run great. but however i take my truck to the dealer ship to have the oil change, no problem. the only issue that have since i can not get conventional oil for the truck anymore I was told I had switch over to synthetic oil I am not a fan of synthetic oil at all but I have no choice, but any way the truck has been a good truck needs a paint job other than that it is good shape thanks for your comment
It's like Bob Ross of auto repair. I really enjoy your channel. As the owner of 3 Toyotas, I'm learning why these vehicles run for so long, and how to take care of them.
Welcome to the club. You've just leveled-up your independence as a capability as a person. You'll also save money while being in control of the quality of oil and filtration for your vehicles. Congratulations.
as a lube tech at a toyota dealership, i deal with these filters every day. issues i see are people forgetting to lubricate the o-rings when replacing them, and not putting the o-ring into the right groove. everything youve said is spot on. one more thing NOT to do, is using the filter cups with the wings that hit the ribs on the side of the canister filter housing, especially if the housing is plastic, it can break them off and put a hole in the housing
Make sure your fellow lube techs know the difference between a 1.8 and 2.0 Corolla. They put 4.9-5qts in my 21 1.8 Corolla when it calls for 4.4. The 2.0 calls for 4.9. Only had them do it because of Toyota care plan.
Why do dealerships not adhere to specs regarding tightening filters? My dealership socked down my plastic oil filter housing so tight it cracked when I tried taking it off today. Do they not know what the manual states, or do they just rush and not care?
During my first oil change on my Corolla, I decided that I didn't like the insert style filter. I decided that it was over engineered. Subsequently I gradually came to appreciate the insert style filter. It is messier, more work, etc. I am now a fan.
What’s nice about the cartridge, is you can pull the pleats apart easily and look for contamination and debris. I found an eyelash one time in the filter.
Just bought a 2008 Rav4 and will be doing my own servicing on the driveway so videos like this are unvaluable. Straight to download. Thank you sir, please keep them coming 👌👍
THANK YOU for being so hands on and DETAILED. Plenty of light...and your hands and fingers NOT in the way of what you are showing. Really enjoy your QUALITY Tundra videos.
Excellent presentation! I especially enjoyed learning how the bypass function works and you are very right- a spring is not just a spring. It has a specific inner and outer diameter, solid length, spring stiffness, etc etc. They are meant for specific applications. I'm a mechanical engineer and had to source a spring for a pick and place machine with a vacuum tip that was spring loaded so it would return to its zero position after dropping the object. It took a lot of effort to find the exact spring that would fit around the air tube and be fitted to the mass of the tube+tip without bottoming out (solid length) so what I picked was relatively obscure given my configuration.
That's called spring stack up I believe and your probably already aware. Used to have to deal with this on our race car engines. It's extremely important.
I leave the bottom plug and small O-ring on my filter housings, and after loosening the housing to the point where it is finger tight and about to leak, I place a 1-qt freezer bag around it and continue to unscrew it. All the oil leaking from the housing (and some from the engine) collects in the ziplock, preventing a big mess and keeping my gloves clean.
@@koomo801 I've been using the drain pipe this whole time, now I'm going to skip that and use your method to keep oil mess to minimum. Also 1 more thing -- the filters I get for my 15 Camry & Rav 2014 don't have a plastic ring around the middle of the filters, instead they're just all paper. Don't know which is better.
@@NSXLA I use Wix (under the Napa Gold brand name) and they're filter elements with no band. NAPA usually has a 30% off sale every month and I buy them in bulk. I help take care of our extended-family's cars...10 Toyota/Lexus (newest is a 2012) and two Hondas. The Hondas take more time than the others combined :/
Great info! Much appreciated I use Toyota filters and Costco 0w20 oil. Oil gets replaced every 4000 km (about 2500 miles) and the oil filter every 8000km. So far so good on my 2014 Camry with the 2.5 I realize this is a little bit of over kill with the oil but the car gets used for a lot of short commutes.
if your using kirkland signature full synthetic oil ....it could easily last 5000 miles even in the severest category.....mainly short repeated trips under 5- 15 miles back forth....the only time id cut it to 3000 miles is if I am literally driving in dirt roads most of the time and the air intake will absorb a lot of dust into the engine...otherwise given todays sythetic tech they have friction modifiers and detergents that keep the oil good even against thermal breakdown and oxidation....2 main culprits for frequent short trips....
Toyota engines are typically very easy on oil. I have actually done oil analysis through Blackstone and every one I send in at 7500 miles they tell me to go to 10k. I do a lot of highway driving so if I was doing around town a lot I would do every 6-7k or every 6 months,
The three oil filters I use on my 2006 scion xB are Toyota, Purolator, and Bosh. 303K miles later the car still runs great. It is my daily driver for winter 100 miles to work and back home.
I raced and rallied Toyotas for many years. It was many, many years ago, so used 4K, 2T-G and 4A-GE engines. All used the standard 'spin-on' type oil filter. When racing and rallying, you are always looking for the maximum power etc. So you try all sorts of things. We modified the head, the valves, the inlet manifold, the exhaust manifold & we installed oil coolers, where a sandwich plate went under the spin-on filter. But, like many 'regular' Toyota users (by the way, my road cars are still Toyota/Lexus) we also tried aftermarket oil filters. The number 1 lesson we learned was, aftermarket filters had a tendency to 'spin-off' WHILE IN USE. Out in a forest, bouncing around at speed, with the engine running at sustained high revs, the oil pressure would suddenly drop to zero. You immediately turn the engine off, get out, lift the bonnet (hood in the US), and see (in amongst a LOT of oil covering the engine bay) the oil filter is nowhere to be seen. Tried a number of 'quality' brand filters. Had several of them do this. NEVER had a genuine Toyota one come loose, let alone come off. Now, pushing the engine to its limit as you do in competition, we certainly had a few failures over the years. NONE were ever due to lubrication problems. The standard lubrication (at least on the older engines), was more than up to the job.
I like the cartridge oil filters. My Camry has the plastic housing and with 212k miles, never had an issue with it. I like paying < $7.00 for oil filters as well.
Thanks for doing this video because I was going to “upgrade” my plastic canister to the metal one and now I won’t. So glad I found your channel. Now I just have to find a mechanic like you in my area. Thx
100%. I “upgraded” to a metal housing and now will be “upgrading” back to oem plastic one. I can confirm that the core tube has come off with my filter a couple times (with my metal housing). It’s not suppose to do that.
Great video explaining the two types of filters. I had no issues switching from the plastic canister to the aluminum. I went to toyota and the aluminum canister was cheaper in my case. We matched it with Toyota parts guy and it is the same thing. I bought 2 for my 2012 scion tc and Venza. My venza is almost 200k and the tc is over 100k. I had no issues removing the inner tube and spring and transferring it to the new aluminum cap. Replaced both plastic cap because they were leaking. Bought both vehicles when they were 70k ish. I know the previous owners and tech over torqued these. IMHO the aluminum cap is better and has a better feel to them. As long as you get the Toyota brand cap this is definitely an upgrade. Been wrenching almost 20 years and the plastic ones do leak but because they are super mega over torqued. There is no way of removing them without breaking them. Also had 2 celica with 22re engines that lasted over 350k before the engines had major issues with spin off filters. The key is oil changes at 3 to 4k. Good quality filters and descent oil and these Toyota last a lifetime. Keep up the great work and I personally enjoy your breakdown engine videos.
Crazy that people over torque them…canisters don’t seal using torque…they use o-rings that seal on the side…simply turn with your hand until it hits bottom & stops turning…doing it by hand is preferable as you can feel it hit bottom…no need to keep twisting!
Just venting, that's all. I use Royal purple oil. I started having the DREADED timing chain rattle in my 2008 Toyota Highlander with 198,000 plus miles. I decided to check my oil and it was NOT royal purple!! No idea how long my mechanic has been stealing my provided oil (they don't stock it and agreed to let me use it) but as soon as I figured it out and switched, NO more timing chain issues!!
I love your channel, Ahmed. Nothing but honest information based on experience and training. Keep up the great work sir and thank you for taking the time to educate the world.
Always keep in mind the "honest" information is based on your perception and warm and fuzzy feeling. I'm not saying it isn't here, only that people want to believe their favorite presenters without any critical thinking or doing their own research.
I grew out of the warm and fuzzy metric decades ago. Yes I’m perceiving that the information is quality, and that’s based on better than 50yrs of life experience and and above average mechanical knowledge that allows me to sniff out the BS. But I’m aware that TH-cam is full of “experts” and view all content with discernment.
Excellent information. I have always used a NAPA gold #1516 in my 06 4Runner 4.0. It is a about 1/3 taller then the standard Toyota oem filter. But they are getting ridiculously expensive. So I switched to WIX same part number on line for about 6 bucks vs 14. I read Wix makes the Napa Gold. I still do my own oil changes at age 66. I take my time, use good parts and I know it is done right. Your presentation shows us all how important a simple maintenance item is. I think many many people skimp to save a few bucks.
Ahmed, thanks for another great video, I have 2022 Camry SE4 cylinder and a 2022 Tacoma SR5 4x4 6 cylinder. I use to do all my own oil changes but Toyota has made it more difficult for me at 67 years old. I don’t trust my dealership maintenance shop to fully service my vehicles
Totally agree about not opening the cap on the metal cartridge housing, it's never leaked on mine. Best to just leave it be and deal with a miniscule amount of extra spill.
The Toyota dealership overtightened the filter on my 4runner and it took my breaker bar to get it off and it broke the housing. The plastic housing was $144 and the metal one $39. I did swap out the tube and have not had a problem since.
You are the best in the world. I really enjoy watching your videos. Everything you say makes sense. I own a 2007 4runner and 2012 Camry hybrid and lucky me I have no major issues yet. I have learned a lot of things because of your dedication of teaching people like us to do the correct basic preventive maintenance on Toyotas. Glad to have you as a mentor. Best wishes from GA.
A lot of us on a popular 4Runner forum have removed the standpipe from the OEM plastic housing and installed it into a genuine Toyota metal housing PN 15620-31060 to make it the correct height. The tabs are bent to changeover the standpipe even though the CarCarNut recommends against it at 11:20-12:30
@@Gilbertmk2 The Doorman is usually fine. Just make sure the correct pipe is installed and change the 2 O rings. Check to make sure the rest of the filter housing is assembled correctly.
I have done the OEM metal housing filter housing with the standpipe swap in both my 4Runner and my Tundra. It’s worked in both vehicles so far just fine. I’m not worried about me cracking the housing, but was worried that a mechanic may crack the housing in the event I need to get it serviced.
I personally don’t see why you’d change to the metal housing. Modern plastics are as strong, or stronger than the aluminum used. You’re not gaining anything by changing it.
I used to work as an automotive technician and at the time I did a lot of research on the filters we used to sell and most of the brand named ones were trash. According to some of the articles I read and videos I watched a few of the cheap filters were some of the best performing/or performed as well as the expensive brands and I was quite shocked after finding that out. Worse was finding out that some brands that have a basic filter and a premium version of that same basic one were practically the same exact thing just that the premium filter has a different colored o-ring and says premium on it! That's just ridiculous! That's not the case with all but some might be like that. Again this was research I did around 2017-18. Not sure if the quality of those filters stayed the same, or gotten better or worse. Just do your research and save money.
Something I’ve seen a good few times with the plastic cartridge filter housing is that it had been way over tightened, and the tabs on the outside get broken off. Over tightening of these filters seems like the most common problem. I had heard that the local dealership even has techs put them on with an impact gun!
You are so correct. When I bought my 2010 Camry, I performed my 1st oil change and realized that the plastic oil filter housing tabs were severely bent. I was the 2nd owner and the car was only service at the Toyota dealership. Every oil change, even wiper blades were bought from Toyota. So I changed it out with the OEM Toyota Metal one.
Toyota will destroy your luggnuts.. The technician claims it was already striped. Case closed. 😆 Speaking to a toyota Technician. He said why waste time with a torque wrench? Impact off and impact on..
Good video. I have both "plastic" and Aluminium version on my Toyotas. Never had a problem with either. From an environmental perspective the canister type is better, less wastage. As for aftermarket parts, 100% agree why bother?
at 487K , you probably have changed the rear main seal to prevent engine oil leaks and probably have changed out all 4 o2 sensors and that transmission probably has been replaced. Has your toyota transmission ever been replaced?
We have ordered a 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR in Canada and really appreciate your videos to understand how to look after it. We hope you keep the videos coming. Thanks so much
The comments regarding doorman filter housing is so true. Do not use anything other than factory. Ran into this with my ‘12 sequoia who’s previous owner used doorman. I had no pro Our experience with this type of housing so didn’t notice the inner tube was missing. Come winter with temps just below 0, the filter was crushed and started having issues with timing belt tensioner. For me, it’s factory parts whenever possible!
You make many, many great points. Cover all the bases. Imo the spin on filters benefits still outweigh the downside. I don’t want to fight a filter that someone else installed wrong. And I don’t know why they even put that drain on the canisters because even if you drain them as much as possible, they still spill oil. The whole thing is just maddening. I do buy better filters then factory because I keep my cars for decades and it does make a difference over time. Best thing about spin on is the fact that the brand and line is printed right on the can.
I personally think the canister (just the filtration element) types are better if you want to keep a check on engine wear. It is much easier to see if you are getting metal sparkles in the oil.
You can use an oil filter cutting tool for the same effect on the canister styles. There are a lot of members at the shop that do this with new builds to track what you are describing. Looks kinda like the cap cutter for a wine bottle when you cut the aluminum sleeve off before de-corking the bottle.
Thank you for posting this. I have never thought of engine oil as a hydraulic fluid that operates the variable valve timing systems. I take your point.
great info - makes you realize what we take for granted what an oil filter actually does and how important the parts are in the filter. I wish I could find a dealer that cares about my car even half of how much I care for it. Almost going stop my subrscription to this channel because tired of hearing toyota oil and oil filters are the best and are made for Toyotas. Wish he would actually show how it is made for the toyotas. Seems like they still have valve cover gaskets that end up leaking using toyota oil. I have had cars with over 200,000 miles when I sold them using nothing but Amsoil oil and they all had the original pcv valve and all the original gaskets and they never leaked oil only when the toyota dealer couldn't put their great filter on right and the oil level never changed between 7500 mile oil changes. I have a neighbor - a little old lady who gets service by the dealer every six months and uses their oil and filter and she barely drives because her 2005 toyota camry only has 85,000 miles and she has already had to have a valve cover replaced. ANY vehicle that I have had and used Amsoil since day one has never had any kind of engine gasket replaced that kept in oil. That was even on some crappy GM products too. I wish I could find the specs on Toyota oil so I can see the flash point and cold flow point of their oil.
Understanding the difference between the canister and the spin on filter is a revelation! I never had a canister filter until I got a Toyota Camry 2017. I was puzzled by this design until I watched this video. Thank you so much!
My first adventure with the canister style filter was in a 67 Chevy Impala. I was surprised to see it in my daughter's Toyota. The Toyota canister is about 10x messier than the old Chevy style, which was basically one large steel container instead of all the piece/parts of the Toyota canister.
I change my own oil and found the exact same things as you have shown. Don’t bother with the bottom plug on the cartridge . Yes it’s messy but safer. Always use OEM parts. Never over tighten these filters. The o ring seals. I agree with you plastic sucks but use OEM. I really prefer the screw on cartridges. Easy and hard to screw up. I worry about someday day taking my Hylander in for service. You never know what they did. Toyota use to have oil filters on top. Messy but easy to drain if you poke a hole in top and wait. So easy so simple. You are expert in your videos. Keep up the good work.
Yes I agree... they designed the engine, they designed the filter to spec , it works and just use it..change the oil and filter every 5k and as you say.. to quote you.. life is good ! Keep up the great work, AMD ! :- ) Almost time for my 5k interval change... next weekend . I'm glad it hit now and not mid-january LOL !
However..., they're all designed with allowable tolerances. Car engines are not some magical precision device that are sensitive down to .005 psi... Operating tolerances may be bit lower on German cars. But, all mainstream American and Japanese cars have tolerance designed into them. So no need to lose our nerve on these topics. Key is to change early and and on time.
@@digitalkov the bypass is inside the engine oil filter bracket. The little spring under the riser tube helps keep the filter centered and presses down on a plate that allows oil to flow when you use the handy drain spout. The filter housings are the same but the riser tubes interchange easily. Just remember to bend the tabs back to prevent the tube from rotating while installing. Use the same tube that came with the vehicle.
@@chuck_howard I've gotten this too. The Napa Gold filter are well made and provide excellent filtration. I don't consider $12.99 to be expensive at all.
@@4x4gear33 If the Mobile 1 filter was not available I would go with the Napa filter too. A few extra bucks to make my engine last 200,000 miles or more is worth it.
One small nit that I’ve seen in almost all oil filter videos- the anti-drainback valve does not prevent the oil from leaving the filter. It prevents unfiltered oil from draining back. In other words the sludge and particles from the “dirty” side (that is, the inlet) would otherwise flow back toward the pump/pan. On a vertical installation (baseplate facing down), the oil will absolutely drain down, but only through the outlet, where it will have been filtered. It does NOT provide uninterrupted oil flow at start. Anyone who has changed a baseplate facing down filter with an ADV a few minutes after the engine has stopped can attest to the filter being nearly empty.
Yeah that's making a lot of sense. Well I always look at my filters because quality is a joke these days. The modular 07-21 cartridge filters have the bypass in the bracket anyway. That spring is only to hold pressure on the drain valve for the included plastic spout when you get a filter. I like how the A25 engine and the new Toyotas have spin ons again.
Good information, at first I thought the newer filters systems from toyota were a gimmick, but after changing it just once with the right tools, its not that bad. I'm sticking with it and I'm not switching to a metal after market after watching this.
Very informative. Explicit. I like mine when I got used to it. I change my own oil and mines the canister type on a 3.5 liter engine rav4. It has the smaller drain plug that allows you to drain it so there's no spilling out of it before you twist the canister off. Much less messy. Good point about using only OEM filters. You can't go wrong.
My first car is a '09 Corolla with 58k miles (2018) and still runs extremely well. All your videos are really informative and educational for me and others. Thank you!! 😃👍
I would really really hope that your car of only 14 years old with less than 60000 On it would still be running extremely well. That being said I'm not trying to sound like a Dick and I'm stoked that you have that car as it is definitely low mileage for the year. I'm sure it will last you the rest of your life properly maintained. Heck it might not even need to be properly maintained considering my buddy has a Camry from the late 80s and barely does any maintenance whatsoever when the thing is already over 380000 km😅 👍🏻
@@lazroo Same here I've got a 99 Camry V6 excellent and I'm just about to hit 210,000. Other than some paint damage and dense here or there the thingwithout a doubt the most reliable car I've ever owned and will ever own. Which is why I also have a 96 of the exact same model 😂 . If they didn't quadruple in price on the used market once the wu-flu hit and people wanted a inexpensive reliable car regardless of whether or not it looked a new or fancy I would have a half-dozen more than I currently do😂 I got mine for $1200 Canadian with only a 160000 on the engine, Leather interior full electric everything... Now you cannot even find one in that shape or condition and if You do not Only is it gonna be a Minimum of $4500 it's gonna need new tires brake pads fluid CHANGE and likely we'll have More than a bit of paint Damage or fading as I've seen with everyone that I do end up seeing on The Used market since I bought Mine. I'm very glad that I picked it up right before wu-flu infected the world
Thank you so much for educating me, Master AMD! I have never seen the inside of an oil filter before! Thank you so much for spending your precious time on this topic!
Hello, as an engineer I enjoy to self service my V8 Toyota and I totally agree with your video. Here's a tip: the thermal expansion of the black plastic canister is 4 times that of the alloy housing that it screws into so these housings get real snug tight as the engine heats to temperature. It's why they never unscrew. Any tight to unscrew housing will unscrew easily when cold. While engine oil should be dropped hot so all the flocculant rubbish in suspension can gush out, after you clean the filter housing and slide the new filter, find a way to cool it before refitting. It will screw on earier.
This video was great for me because I always change my own oil. My daughter bought a 2014 SR5 Toyota 4Runner and I was going to change the oil. I am so happy that I have researched this topic, because it's not as easy as my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherooke. I have bought the metal ones from Amazon and now I am thinking I will use it as a backup and stick with the plastic one for now. Great information and thank you so much!
thank you for your videos. I recently purchased a 2013 tundra and it had the same exact aftermarket dorman oil cap. I went to my dealer and purchased OEM cap for $103.08
Man i appreciate your professionalism, im an auto glass technician and its hard to come by people who are professional, educated and clean with their work space.
A year or two ago, the Wix/NapaGold filters were equivalent in price to Toyota filters (for my model at least), but now the Toyota filters are much less expensive because Toyota did not double their prices like everybody did, their prices stayed the same. And the other advantage is that the Toyota cartridge filters fit more precisely/tightly over the center tube, the Wix/NapaGold are loose, very loose.
@@nicholaspetre1 You could give your local Toyota dealer a call to see their price and pick one up, and also pick one up from Napa and see the difference for yourself, not that much $ for peace of mind. Also FWIW, the Napa Gold fiters for my model were made in Mexico a few years ago, now they're made in China, and even looser on the center tube. At this point I simply go to a Toyota dealership for all my parts since I realized the techs who say "you'll never get a better part than OEM" are pretty much right. Especially now when you consider the artificially inflated prices of the aftermarket world. EDIT: OH I forgot about oil pan washers, I was buying aftermarket drain plug washers (still the blue gasketing material laminated on both sides of a steel washer like Toyota does, but not the same) and they were always sticking like crazy and delaminating either on the pan itself or on the screw/plug, I had to use a steel plaster spatula to pry off the glued gasketing materiel on the pan or the screw, then I switched to Toyota ones and the crazy sticking and delaminating issue went right away, no problems since. It's the small things like this that make you realize Toyota knows more about how to make parts right than the aftermarket world.
@@gtfkt thanks for sharing, very interesting actually. The primary reason I wanted to buy Napa Gold is because those OEM filters made in China - YZZA4 are so shitty and look like crap in hands. They are so weak and literally falling apart when you touch them. Have a few pleats. I dont know if these OEM filters can do any good in 5.7 L engine. I know many mechanics say they are still good but I am just trying to do my own due diligence since I am the one whose gonna be responsible for the parts I am buying. I ve used Napa Plat and Gold in past and never had problems. Made in China actually does not mean its bad, everything is made there these days, it is just that the filter itself looks like a joke.
My filter is the YZZA6 (made in Thailand), much smaller. Yours shouldn't be falling apart tho... unless you're doing something you shouldn't be doing. The Napa Gold/WIX is made the same way as the Toyota ones except Toyota's center plastic binder material is transparent instead of yellow. They all look like a joke because they're cartridge filters made for a relatively non-demanding application, the standard steel sprin-on filters have the exact same filtering element inside. From purely a mechanical standpoint, I think cartridge filters are a much better idea than spin-on because you can directly see any foreign material stuck in the filter when you remove it, unlike a spin-on which you have to cut apart to get to the filter and sinpect it. @@nicholaspetre1
I used to only drive VWs and my wife was a Volvo fan but circumstances eventually led us into both owning Toyotas (My brother wrecked my '69 VW bus!) and your videos have been a tremendous help in learning the ins and outs. I am driving a 2007 Matrix with almost 250K on it and it still runs good if a bit sluggish shifting gears. My wife likes newer cars and is in a 2015 Camry SE. Not going to say I don't miss the bus, though.
WWII in plastic nice dude! I have a 2006 Matrix base, & I assume you mean 250K miles/400,000 km. Because mine has 244,000 km/151000 miles. It shifts just like new. Has the transmission fluid ever been changed on yours? If it’s a bit sluggish, then just don’t abuse it all the time. If you drive it correctly, it might go another 100,000 miles if you baby it. I’ve seen old old late 80’s early 90’s Toyota automatics shift hard when super high mileage, but if the owner took care of it, it could go on that way for nearly another 100,000 miles. What kind of shape is the rest of the car in, cosmetically & mechanically? Just unusually curious because I have the exact same car just a year older.
@@Blakecryderman7244 I do mean miles. It's not in great shape on the exterior--missing the front logo, all the door handles are broken or badly cracked but I am ordering replacements, both tail lights have damaged plastic covers, and it is scratched and dinged. Has the standard Georgia cracked windshield. My wife was nice enough to scrape a pole in a parking lot so the driver's fender is creased. On the plus side, the prior owner kept the cargo netting and other accessories in the back and it has a nicer stereo (which I installed for her years earlier). I have not done the tranny fluid but I have replaced the front rotors. All in all a good buy for the $300 I paid.
I've been doing my own oil changes since 1975. I always know what oil is in there, what filter and if I did it right. This video got me thinking - what do Toyota original oil filters cost - $5.97. I've used mostly FRAM in the past but I may change.
Honestly this is how I felt about oil change in general but dealership said otherwise..but this simple honest information made me consider sooner change on all 3 vehicles one being a Honda…now that cooler weather is coming
Excellent video. Don't forget there are a lot filters out there that look like and say Toyota filters but they are not. I purchased myself 5 of those clones from Amazon. They have all the original markings in the box and filters but they are not Toyota filters. When you compare them to the original, you can see the differences.
Excellent, informative, comprehensive video, your experience really shines through. Helps me a lot in making informed decisions for myself. I bought a conversion kit into a spin on but hadn't installed it yet, now I won't. One of my favourite channels. Great work!
Bought the Preown (leased) 2016 Rav4 from Toyota dealer and then did the "first oil change" myself. Lo and behold, the plastic filter cartridge was extremely tight. I had to use breaker bar to unscrew it. Then the plastic tab of the filter cartridge broke and oil started to leak out. Thank you so much for the Toyota tech. who over tighten the filter cartridge. I bought a new cartridge from dealer and tightened the cartridge per the torque spec. on the filter element. Never have any problem to unscrew the cartridge since then.
Very food information, however I have been to many classes on oil and filters, and was always told the "bypass" valves in oil filters operate on "differential pressure" to open the bypass valve. Every vehicle has a specific pressure point that opens the bypass valve. I have seen 8-10 PSi on some filters, and some as high as 10-15 PSI.
Great advice, to the point and without any "scare tactics." Thank you. I had a plastic cap break when I was removing, because the previous person who worked on it over tightened it. I ended up buying the aftermarket metal one not knowing the information about the bypass. Now I'm going to go back to the OEM. One question: is the spring the same on the metal vs plastic OEM covers?
Great advice ! I'm with you a hundred percent, but I always wondered about the metal filter housings for both my 5.7 motors. Glad I kept the filter housings orginal !
@@breckfreeride It is because the plastic one breaks over time. I don't think it heat cycles well. The real Toyota metal one is a LOT better, just don't get the Doorman knockoff and be careful transfering the spring and you'll be fine.
I always just make sure I use a Ryco oil filter in my daily 2001 Corolla and also in my e46 m3. I never knew why my Corolla used a normal filter and my m3 uses cartridges. Know I know the difference in function. I learned something today. Thank you
When I bought my new oil filter, I used Wix, I replaced the o-ring on my 2012 Prius. Toyota does make fantastic Parts but is tha o- ring reusable and not supposed to be replaced at each cartridge change Thank you for spending the time to make these videos.
Thank you for a simple, straightforward explanation! Since retirement, I have started to change my own oil again. I'd rather do it and be sure than take it somewhere and have to hope they did it with the right stuff.
I greatly prefer canister types. But even better than Toyota is top mount canister types like most BMWs and Subarus (and a couple others) have. It makes changing them so much easier.
This video actually taught me a couple of things. First, you explained the differences between the 2 style of filters. I bought a 2017 Sienna last year, and that was the first time I ever encountered the canister style housing. I did some research on how to change the oil when it’s due. This was going to be a learning curve for me. It really isn’t that bad. I did buy a new canister before my first oil change was due, just in case. Well, I’m glad I did. When I removed the canister from the car, the inside parts just fell apart. I will admit, I tried to repair it, but then thought, why, when I have a new one. I compared the parts and discovered the one I had just removed did not say Toyota. It was an aftermarket piece. The new one I had bought was from Toyota and I’m glad I had it. Still get a little nervous doing the oil change, but I just take my time and all goes well. The second thing I learned was, I have been using Wix filters for over 10 years, and they have worked very well for me. A few years ago, I thought about using a “better” filter, but thought, why. If what I’m using is doing the job, with no problems, stay with it. You just reconfirmed that. Thank you for putting up these videos. I love hearing the straight scoop from someone such as you, that services Toyotas on a daily basis. Again thank you, and may God Bless you!
You’re like a calm, less generalizing Scotty Kilmer. I love it.
No reason to insult this guy 😂
No insult. Was thinking the same thing during arm flailing portion and the most important point is he love for Lexus / Toyota. 😂
He like Scott finally realize Toyota is the finest money can buy. 😂
Scotty thinks he knows everything about everything, car expert, ev expert, and everything in between, he’s after views on his channel. This man knows what he’s doing and (unlike Scotty)he still works on cars for a living.
@@ronl2463 unlike Scotty he isn’t bought and payed for
As an auto Tech who has been working on cars for over 30 years, I can tell you that Mr. Ahmad really knows what he is talking about. I have seen so many issues with so called mechanics botching the cartridge oil filter change job. Toyota, in my humble opinion, should bring back the spin on one piece metal filter to All its engine models . Keep it simple Toyota! That is how you became the most reliable car company in the world!
That stupid filter is one of the reasons never considered bying a new Toyota when I was in the market for a car. I bought a Subaru Forester.
@robertknight4672 what you bought a Subaru over a toyota because of the filter, each to each, I'd even buy a faulty toyota over a Subaru 😂.
@@robertknight4672 Subaru? Oops.
@@robertknight4672
Lol, proceeds to buy a vehicle that leaks oil everywhere but the oil filter. I love Subaru prior to 2018, their tanks, they leak a quart of oil a week after 120k miles and they keep going.
@@shaungranger2166 that was only one reason. I like Subaru's large windows and also it has an infotainment screen that's flushed with the dash I just don't like the ones that stick over the dashboard. In the 2023 Forester still has tactile dials for climate control. And I also like the steering responsive headlights.
Sometimes less is more. This man is a mentor and a legend. Probably has forgotten more than we will ever know about Toyotas.
Never any Toyotas here. Tho he'd fairly interesting. Engineer perspective.
Man, this man keeps on delivering clear info for those of us who care about their cars. Thank you!
Agree 100% I love this guy he is so knowledgeable and honest in his judgment always.
He is the only person I trust
This man is a hero. Giving out good knowledge and PSAs.
I’m learning a lot watching this and i am eternally grateful.
Ahmed, this is such an incredibly important message! As I always say, engines and gearboxes are expensive, but fluids aren't. This is just a twice-a-year job, do it right and your Toyota engine will last incredibly long. Thanks for everything that you do for the Toyota community.
Don't bother, he never responds just pushing the algorithm for monetization
@@Breezyaon1 You have no idea what you're talking about. Ahmed tells it like it is. I own a 4Runner and a Tundra and his advice will help me keep them running forever. Toyota's are great vehicles but like everything else, they require common sense maintenance, faithfully performed.
@@Breezyaon1 I think you might be ignoring the part about him taking to time to generate quality content. How miserable do you have to be to make such a comment?
Twice a year is too little, it needs to be done more in my opinion. Sometimes I’ll change my oil when I’m bored and I’ve driven my truck kinda hard
Twice a year? It's about every other month for me lol. I do mine every 7 thousand.
my oem plastic canister cracked and bought a dorman replacement, after watching this, i will replace it immediately. Thank you for always great advice and helping us to get the most out of our toyotas! God bless you sir!!
I did too. But I sold the rig a year later. Poor chap lol
Same here, but the quality didn't seem that bad. I used the toyota orings. Should be just fine.
Toyota made a major mistake by abandoning spin on filters in favor of canister filters. I believe that the company wanted to make oil changes very messy for DIY mechanics. I do NOT trust Toyota dealerships! A service writer told me in 2015 that the 3.5 year old 12V AGM battery in my 2012 Camry hybrid needed to be replaced. I was incredulous and tested the battery at home. It was fine and is still working today over 11.5 years after I bought this Camry,
vehicle. I started in servicing my Toyota vehicles using the expert advice on this channel in 2017..In 2018 I purchased a certified 2013 Prius with 36,700 miles. I changed the fluid in my radiator and inverter system two weeks ago at 88,500 miles. I found a jagged small rock and black fragments of it in the spent inverter fluid, suggesting deliberate sabotage! I now have to worry about my inverter system going bad.. Scotty Kilmer calls dealerships stealerships. I could not agree more! Stay away from Toyota dealerships! DIY or find a reputable private shop.
The canister filters are absolute garbage. To your point. The dealerships often over tighten them beyond the 18 ft lbs. in fact i have seen them tighten them the same or more as the Drain bolt. As result they crack and leak. Ahmed says he has never seen one fail cause he uses care but what he does not realize is not everyone is him. I have seen several OEM canister fail but never a spin on unless the gasket is bad. The spin on are cheap, the canister is not! If Toyota makes an OEM metal one for your particular car change it. The plastic is shit. All it takes is one time for the plastic and its trashed !
Bought a 2024 Tacoma and the filter is spin on.
I dont think enough is said about a mechanic making videos like these. Free advice from a guy that makes his living maintaining vehicles. Showing how to and experience. Thank you. I enjoy watching all your videos.
My wife and I both have a couple of Rav4's (2003 and 2004). The oil filter part number is 90915-YZZF1 for both of them, but I found that the local Toyota dealer had been putting on the 90915-YZZN1 filter on during oil changes. The N1 is shorter than the F1, and I think it's a smaller diameter if I remember right. I couldn't find any information on the internet saying that both were compatible. My wife brought her RAV4 back to them and I mentioned that they were using the incorrect oil filter, so after the oil change they verified on the bill that they put on the F1, but they lied because the N1 is still on the car (or they lied and didn't even change the filter). Either way, I have quit taking it to the dealer and have been changing my own oil and filters ever since.
It's a shame that often a good local mechanic will be much better at carefully serving your car than some apprentice at a dealership, and yet servicing at the dealer looks better on the carfax for resale value.
That is why I avoid them (ie, dealerships) like the plague.
As soon as I discovered this I would have gone straight to the dealership manager (not the service manager) to complain. Unless you are watching how do you know they are changing the filter..maybe they are just draining the oil and refilling. Also, how often are people charged for synthetic oil and get non synthetic? Its sad you have to resort to hiding a GoPro under your hood so you know what is going on.
@@prule1335 that's a great idea. Wish I had done that..... My old filter was full of metal shavings from assembly. Supposedly they changed it at 1000 miles but no.
You are right. The 90915-YZZF1 is obviously taller than the 90915-YZZN1 which by the way superseded the 90915-YZZF2 but is not a replacement for the 90915-YZZF1.
All great videos! Comment from a perfectionist auto tech for over 35 yrs. Worked a ambulance and limo companies. Always used oem filters and more than a few had over 500,000 with original eng. I was a Chevy guy for the style and v8’s. Now that I’m retired, I have a 2011 Lexus es350 with 74k that is as nice as the mileage. Very low maintenance and love that. Wife has been a Toyota fan for over 25 yrs and good thing cause I was always tinkering with the Chevys. I wish USA manufacturers would make a product like Japan has had. I support our country but logic makes the decision.
Keep up the videos. They’re a pleasure to watch.
Jeez... imagine being carried in an ambulance that has 500,000 miles...
@@digitalkov Gosh I was thinking if that engine drops dead while transporting a patient!!!!
I wish I had you as my mechanic for my Toyota vehicles!! Great information for your viewers, thumbs up to you and your TH-cam channel. I never miss any new videos you upload.
About canister filters you will not get an experience automotive mechanic at dealerships or quick loop places. To change your oil they're going to send the new kid out there to do an oil change.. he's 18 and 20 years old.. the 30-year-old mechanic is going to be replacing timing belts.. not doing oil changes The experience mechanic is going to be replacing your brakes.. these kids are f****** up millions of Toyota vehicles cuz they're not properly trained or they don't care if they've damaged the bypass valve in the canister.. Toyota should go to spin-ons cuz these kids that they hired to change your oil won't f*** it up..
Start repair urself
I serviced my Prius to 300k with same plastic housing,NO ISSUES and never touch the drain.BUT I REALLY APPRECIATE YOU SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE.
Same here but sold it at 120,000 miles.
I have learned so much about care and maintenance for my 2016 Tacoma TRD Sport, and my wife's Lexus 2017 RX 350. But one thing, I'm from 1950, and I love the new technologies in automobiles. I still replace my fluids and filters, but I do have access to lifts. Keep up the good videos.
Some of the technology I like but the ones that replace common sense and alertness while driving I'm not a fan of.
I am a HUGE Toyota Fan. I recently found your You Tube videos. Honestly you are the most honest and competent mechanic I have ever seen! I have learned so much from you. You seem like a very solid, kind and knowledgeable man. THANK YOU for taking the time to do these videos and educating me and I am sure MANY others!!
Well said, Japan rules the automotive industry. TOYOTA 1ST.
Wow, I've been doing my own oil changes for over 50 years and learnt some new things today. My engine is the 2.5 liter 4GR-FSE. It has the aluminium metal canister filter on its side, without the removable center cap. I always wondered what that little plastic tube in the kit was and if I was meant to be installing it somewhere, now I know!! Almost every other car I've owned has had a spin on filter. The only problem I ever had with them was many years ago. In my Datsun 510, a piece of metal flicked up at highway speed and punctured the filter. I may have left the splash panel off. I lost all the oil but fortunately, stopped as soon as the light came on and the engine was ok. Thanks for these great videos, I'm hooked!!
I bet you wish you could still work on that 510. I had a 72' 510 wagon.... my 1st car. Put it through hell, learned about car repair with it.
I used to buy FRAM filters if I was cheap, Mobil1 if I had some extra cash. Now, I drive full time and change my oil every 2-4 weeks. I buy the Toyota canister filters from my dealership by the case and use Mobil1 0W-16 for every oil change with no problems at 204,000 miles for my 2020 Camry. I’ve learned so much from your channel and hope this car lasts at least 600,000 miles because that’s when it should be paid off. 😀
Have you had any issues with your Camry? The A25A-FKS engine uses an electric water pump. I’m wondering if people are having issues with it. Have you changed the spark plugs and transmission fluid? I have a 19 RAV4 LE gas model and it has been problem free at 82k miles knock on wood.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q Coolant was changed at 100,000 and 200,000 miles. Transmission fluid was drained and filled at 70,000, 100,000, and 175,000 miles. Car is at 219,000 miles and engine and transmission are fine. Spark plugs are still original.
@@jasonjohnston94 spark plugs original at 219,000 miles? Toyota recommends changing all spark plugs around 120K.....wow you must have added many additives to your gas tank and intake to keep that plug clean...
@@user-tb7rn1il3qcurrent mileage update?
I just sold my Cummins Ram pickup. I always used Fleetguard filters the ones they recommend. Same deal with my Honda's. I'm older now and have to depend on my dealer's Express Lube. It's wide open for customers to observe from the lounge. The same guys have worked there for yrs and actually do the job correctly. I always tip the guy. I get a full synthetic oil change and Honda filter for $79 otd. I have a 2005 Honda Pilot with 270K. 5K conventional oil and Honda filters.
Been filtration specialist for 8 years (former Toyota car tech / now Toyota forklift tech). I like your approach on how parts inside the filter works. The problem with some aftermarket filter brands is that they tend to use the same bypass valve and filter element for more than one car brand. If the bypass valve opens at a lower pressure on the wrong engine, the oil flow will bypass the filter element longer than intended and even at higher rpm. Stick to OE filters if possible or keep to the well known high quality brands. Here in Europe that would be Mann&Hummel, Mahle, Wix (Napa in USA)etc. Stay away from FRAM group filters especially. And remember that anything made in Japan is quality no matter what it is.
Tell me exactly what is wrong with the team Ultra cartridge style filter?
I have used Fram filters for well over 40 years and all my engines went over 250K km with no issue and were still running when I sold the vehicles.
That is correct and folks Toyota and all auto makers do not make oil filters or oil
FRAM being junk is old news. The FRAM Ultra Synthetic filters (less than $9) are excellent.
FYI, both Wix and Purolator filters are Mann+Hummel brands now.
Man... I hope Toyota pays you a stipend for all the time you spend helping us "Toyota Fans" with maintenance questions and tips.
You really are an asset to Toyota, and to us.
Thank you.
This man is calm and so knowledgeable. I've learned so much from him and I don't own a Toyota. He does concise reviews of other brands too.
I've recently bought a new Toyota Hybrid, and I honestly find your channel so informative! Especially when the car came with a Japanese user manual, watching your shows helps me better understand the technology behind hybrids.
Your channel is great, both professional with some humor chucked in every now and then, can't truly thank you for your time and energy you put into the videos.
Also, how you prioritize safety over anything else, is truly a work of art.
Thank you again!
Watching from New Zealand 🇳🇿🇳🇿
Oh wow I wonder if it was meant for the Japan market and got shipped out by mistake 😮
Naw they said 🤷♂️ Kiwi ain't gonna read that ish 😂
You can use Google lens to translate the pages for you. Although you have to go page by page😂
Great informative video. One important point I didn’t see you mention about the canister filter is to make sure you you get the large o-ring in the correct groove on the housing or else it will leak.
This is in the instructions on the box. People are idiots and do not read nor look at the instruction pictures.🙄
Someone at an oil change shop did that to me , no o ring at all , leaked all the way home and back , I check it every time now
Well, since it's an OEM Toyota filter it comes in a box that has directions and illustrations right on the box, but yes, most guys will likely never look at those.
you do not have to change the o ring every time they last at least 5-10 changes. never had one leak or go bad in this time period
@@mikehand2668 I've been driving 51 years and can honestly say I have NEVER paid anyone to change my oil.
My wife, before we married, had her oil changed in her Honda Civic at a quick lube shop, years ago. A few miles down the road the drain plug fell out, and fortunately, she had the sense to stop immediately when the light came on. Unbelievably enough, the employee admitted he only screwed the drain plug in a couple turns, intending to torque it later -- but got distracted.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
One thing that I really like about the Toyota spin on filter is the sealing gasket it is rounded and comes pre lubricated.
Kinda like your sister...prelubricated
Big deal, it takes 10 seconds to smear any gasket with oil.
I like it comes with the plastic seal. I guess that helps keep it lubed
@@golden.lights.twinkle2329Just one less thing to go wrong, and it’s also sealed with a thin layer of plastic to keep any contaminants out if stored for long periods of time, and all that for 5 bucks
Started doing my own oil changes and so glad i did.. One day i was like im gonna save some money and it looks pretty simple. I go to untighten my filter housing and drain bolt and ofcourse they're so tight it took me a good 35 minutes of trying everything to loosen/get them off... No more taking it to the mechanic.
Or like me they strip the bolt and cross thread the oil pan a wonderful thousand dollars minimal
I worked as a paramedic firefighter a d approached a female Asian after an accident and she said "not my fault ice!" And she was the 100th car that day of tard after tard after tard u know ?
I took my new Toyota tacoma to village Toyota in Homossa Florida for it's first oil change and the plastic oil filter canister was tighten on so tight, I had to use a breaker bar to get it off! the factory spec tork value is 18 foot pounds, and the dealership had the canister over tighten, carless slobs. I will never trust the Toyota dealerships for nothing except buying parts and recalls!
I do my oil changes on my 06 Tacoma. Love the easy access spin off that sits on the top of the block. Kirkland full synthetic. Use the OEM Toyota filter. Like 7 bucks ... Enjoy the detail
I use Denso Toyota OEM filters but I confess to using the ones specified for the 2.4L on that engine and my 1.8L 1zz-fe. The 1.8L filter is the same diameter and thread pitch but a little shorter. The oil pressure specs are very close at idle and identical at 3K RPM. Never had any trouble. I'm good with the canister on the 2GR but my local Toyota dealer put it on so tight during the "maintenance included" oil changes that even a 2 foot breaker bar wouldn't free it. I used a large impact to get it off without damage. Said dealer also overfilled the oil. Better to DIY or find a good shop like The Car Care Nut's.
I do my own maintenance just for those reasons. Number one, I know exactly what oil is going into the engine, ie the correct viscosity and brand, number two I torque the filter according to specs and not with a freaking impact wrench, number three I use a little TLC such as wiping the dirt from around the oil fill port so it doesn't get knocked in before adding oil. Can pretty much guarantee the dealership will screw one of those up.
@@frankharley1000 Maybe I'm OCD for this but I also take the time to fill the filters/canisters with oil so as to give the engine less time without oil pressure upon startup.
@@randyduncan795 then I guess I'm OCD as well, Randy! I do the same thing if possible.
@@frankharley1000 Great info. I also wipe clean the inside of where the oil filter screws on to. I bump the starter 5 or 6 times to build oil pressure before i start the engine. Also I always drain the oil when the engine oil is hot so more of it comes out. It all makes a difference.
My dealer did the same thing. I was afraid I would damage it taking it off, so I took it back to the dealer and had them do it. What is crazy is that the torque specs for the filter is less than the drain plug.
The amount of information I’ve learned from this man 10/10
I am a Tacoma person, I had a few of the 3.5 v6 engines, hated those canister filters and also hated that I had to drop the skid plate to do an oil change. Just changed up again and now into a 2022 Tacoma 4x4 with the 2.7, best engine ever and no more dropping the skid plate and no more canister filter, thank God for spin on filters.
My next Toyota is a most likely going to be a new 4 cylinder Tacoma. I don't need to tow or use 4WD so I figured I'd save my $$$
I'm with you, dropping the skid plate ony tundra is a pain in the butt and takes two sizes of fasteners. Almost as if a Ford engineer infiltrated Toyota. My 10 Corolla has the cartridge type and I miss the spin on. They can put the cartridge style up their b holes.
I love my 2011 Tacoma trd off road, less then 100k miles and the 4.0 pulls harder then the 3.5
I have a 2021 Tacoma 4wd with the SX package. I went with the 4 cyl and love it. Will not win a race, But Very easy to work and and I know it will run for years. So glad I went with the 4 banger,
thanks for your comment I have a 2000 Tacoma with the v6 engine never really had any major issue out of the truck only got 174 thousand miles on it still run great. but however i take my truck to the dealer ship to have the oil change, no problem. the only issue that have since i can not get conventional oil for the truck anymore I was told I had switch over to synthetic oil I am not a fan of synthetic oil at all but I have no choice, but any way the truck has been a good truck needs a paint job other than that it is good shape thanks for your comment
It's like Bob Ross of auto repair. I really enjoy your channel. As the owner of 3 Toyotas, I'm learning why these vehicles run for so long, and how to take care of them.
Thank you for clearing this subject up for me, I love my FJ and do not ever want to compromise her quality.
I did my first oil change about a week ago, and I did it because of your video. God bless brother and keep giving that good info.
It’s super simple isn’t it? Soon you’ll be doing all your own maintenance just go slow and take your time.
@@StrongerThanBigfoot yea just it was the longest oil change in history. I do a lot of maintenance and just never did that. Hahaha
Your first oil change, no longer an oil virgin, well done.
Welcome to the club. You've just leveled-up your independence as a capability as a person. You'll also save money while being in control of the quality of oil and filtration for your vehicles. Congratulations.
@@ORflycaster hahaha
as a lube tech at a toyota dealership, i deal with these filters every day. issues i see are people forgetting to lubricate the o-rings when replacing them, and not putting the o-ring into the right groove. everything youve said is spot on. one more thing NOT to do, is using the filter cups with the wings that hit the ribs on the side of the canister filter housing, especially if the housing is plastic, it can break them off and put a hole in the housing
Yes! I use the basic aluminum cup from the snap on truck. 30 dollars or something. 24mm hex. Absolutely do not use the slotted design!
Make sure your fellow lube techs know the difference between a 1.8 and 2.0 Corolla. They put 4.9-5qts in my 21 1.8 Corolla when it calls for 4.4. The 2.0 calls for 4.9. Only had them do it because of Toyota care plan.
Which filter wrench brand do you recommend?
Why do dealerships not adhere to specs regarding tightening filters? My dealership socked down my plastic oil filter housing so tight it cracked when I tried taking it off today.
Do they not know what the manual states, or do they just rush and not care?
Patt lobb dealership sold me a non OEM filter
During my first oil change on my Corolla, I decided that I didn't like the insert style filter. I decided that it was over engineered. Subsequently I gradually came to appreciate the insert style filter. It is messier, more work, etc. I am now a fan.
What’s nice about the cartridge, is you can pull the pleats apart easily and look for contamination and debris. I found an eyelash one time in the filter.
Just bought a 2008 Rav4 and will be doing my own servicing on the driveway so videos like this are unvaluable.
Straight to download.
Thank you sir, please keep them coming 👌👍
THANK YOU for being so hands on and DETAILED. Plenty of light...and your hands and fingers NOT in the way of what you are showing. Really enjoy your QUALITY Tundra videos.
Excellent presentation! I especially enjoyed learning how the bypass function works and you are very right- a spring is not just a spring. It has a specific inner and outer diameter, solid length, spring stiffness, etc etc. They are meant for specific applications. I'm a mechanical engineer and had to source a spring for a pick and place machine with a vacuum tip that was spring loaded so it would return to its zero position after dropping the object. It took a lot of effort to find the exact spring that would fit around the air tube and be fitted to the mass of the tube+tip without bottoming out (solid length) so what I picked was relatively obscure given my configuration.
Geseënde verjaarsdag
That's called spring stack up I believe and your probably already aware. Used to have to deal with this on our race car engines. It's extremely important.
I leave the bottom plug and small O-ring on my filter housings, and after loosening the housing to the point where it is finger tight and about to leak, I place a 1-qt freezer bag around it and continue to unscrew it. All the oil leaking from the housing (and some from the engine) collects in the ziplock, preventing a big mess and keeping my gloves clean.
Using a plastic red "party cup" to unscrew the filter works similarly.
Brilliant. But did he mean not to use the drain pipe on both aluminum and plastic filter housings?
@@NSXLA I think so. It's only function is to reduce the mess. But as he says it introduces an unnecessary failure point.
@@koomo801 I've been using the drain pipe this whole time, now I'm going to skip that and use your method to keep oil mess to minimum. Also 1 more thing --
the filters I get for my 15 Camry & Rav 2014 don't have a plastic ring around the middle of the filters, instead they're just all paper. Don't know which is better.
@@NSXLA I use Wix (under the Napa Gold brand name) and they're filter elements with no band. NAPA usually has a 30% off sale every month and I buy them in bulk. I help take care of our extended-family's cars...10 Toyota/Lexus (newest is a 2012) and two Hondas. The Hondas take more time than the others combined :/
Great info! Much appreciated I use Toyota filters and Costco 0w20 oil. Oil gets replaced every 4000 km (about 2500 miles) and the oil filter every 8000km. So far so good on my 2014 Camry with the 2.5 I realize this is a little bit of over kill with the oil but the car gets used for a lot of short commutes.
Oil formulation today is better than the old days. 5000miles would be overkill
if your using kirkland signature full synthetic oil ....it could easily last 5000 miles even in the severest category.....mainly short repeated trips under 5- 15 miles back forth....the only time id cut it to 3000 miles is if I am literally driving in dirt roads most of the time and the air intake will absorb a lot of dust into the engine...otherwise given todays sythetic tech they have friction modifiers and detergents that keep the oil good even against thermal breakdown and oxidation....2 main culprits for frequent short trips....
Toyota engines are typically very easy on oil. I have actually done oil analysis through Blackstone and every one I send in at 7500 miles they tell me to go to 10k. I do a lot of highway driving so if I was doing around town a lot I would do every 6-7k or every 6 months,
The three oil filters I use on my 2006 scion xB are Toyota, Purolator, and Bosh. 303K miles later the car still runs great. It is my daily driver for winter 100 miles to work and back home.
I raced and rallied Toyotas for many years. It was many, many years ago, so used 4K, 2T-G and 4A-GE engines. All used the standard 'spin-on' type oil filter.
When racing and rallying, you are always looking for the maximum power etc. So you try all sorts of things. We modified the head, the valves, the inlet manifold, the exhaust manifold & we installed oil coolers, where a sandwich plate went under the spin-on filter.
But, like many 'regular' Toyota users (by the way, my road cars are still Toyota/Lexus) we also tried aftermarket oil filters. The number 1 lesson we learned was, aftermarket filters had a tendency to 'spin-off' WHILE IN USE. Out in a forest, bouncing around at speed, with the engine running at sustained high revs, the oil pressure would suddenly drop to zero. You immediately turn the engine off, get out, lift the bonnet (hood in the US), and see (in amongst a LOT of oil covering the engine bay) the oil filter is nowhere to be seen.
Tried a number of 'quality' brand filters. Had several of them do this. NEVER had a genuine Toyota one come loose, let alone come off. Now, pushing the engine to its limit as you do in competition, we certainly had a few failures over the years. NONE were ever due to lubrication problems. The standard lubrication (at least on the older engines), was more than up to the job.
I like the cartridge oil filters. My Camry has the plastic housing and with 212k miles, never had an issue with it. I like paying < $7.00 for oil filters as well.
Thanks for doing this video because I was going to “upgrade” my plastic canister to the metal one and now I won’t. So glad I found your channel. Now I just have to find a mechanic like you in my area. Thx
100%. I “upgraded” to a metal housing and now will be “upgrading” back to oem plastic one.
I can confirm that the core tube has come off with my filter a couple times (with my metal housing). It’s not suppose to do that.
Great video explaining the two types of filters. I had no issues switching from the plastic canister to the aluminum. I went to toyota and the aluminum canister was cheaper in my case. We matched it with Toyota parts guy and it is the same thing. I bought 2 for my 2012 scion tc and Venza. My venza is almost 200k and the tc is over 100k. I had no issues removing the inner tube and spring and transferring it to the new aluminum cap. Replaced both plastic cap because they were leaking. Bought both vehicles when they were 70k ish. I know the previous owners and tech over torqued these. IMHO the aluminum cap is better and has a better feel to them. As long as you get the Toyota brand cap this is definitely an upgrade. Been wrenching almost 20 years and the plastic ones do leak but because they are super mega over torqued. There is no way of removing them without breaking them. Also had 2 celica with 22re engines that lasted over 350k before the engines had major issues with spin off filters. The key is oil changes at 3 to 4k. Good quality filters and descent oil and these Toyota last a lifetime. Keep up the great work and I personally enjoy your breakdown engine videos.
Crazy that people over torque them…canisters don’t seal using torque…they use o-rings that seal on the side…simply turn with your hand until it hits bottom & stops turning…doing it by hand is preferable as you can feel it hit bottom…no need to keep twisting!
Just venting, that's all. I use Royal purple oil. I started having the DREADED timing chain rattle in my 2008 Toyota Highlander with 198,000 plus miles. I decided to check my oil and it was NOT royal purple!! No idea how long my mechanic has been stealing my provided oil (they don't stock it and agreed to let me use it) but as soon as I figured it out and switched, NO more timing chain issues!!
This is why i avoid mechanics as much as possible.
I love your channel, Ahmed. Nothing but honest information based on experience and training. Keep up the great work sir and thank you for taking the time to educate the world.
Always keep in mind the "honest" information is based on your perception and warm and fuzzy feeling. I'm not saying it isn't here, only that people want to believe their favorite presenters without any critical thinking or doing their own research.
I grew out of the warm and fuzzy metric decades ago. Yes I’m perceiving that the information is quality, and that’s based on better than 50yrs of life experience and and above average mechanical knowledge that allows me to sniff out the BS. But I’m aware that TH-cam is full of “experts” and view all content with discernment.
** I couldn’t delete the extra “and” with my phone.
Excellent information. I have always used a NAPA gold #1516 in my 06 4Runner 4.0. It is a about 1/3 taller then the standard Toyota oem filter. But they are getting ridiculously expensive. So I switched to WIX same part number on line for about 6 bucks vs 14. I read Wix makes the Napa Gold. I still do my own oil changes at age 66. I take my time, use good parts and I know it is done right. Your presentation shows us all how important a simple maintenance item is. I think many many people skimp to save a few bucks.
Thanks for the Wix info.
Wix has been making NAPA filters for over 50 years fyi
Purolator filters Rule!
Toyota filters are available at dealer or Walmart.
Most engines don't even need a filter..just change it every 5000 miles!
Ahmed, thanks for another great video, I have 2022 Camry SE4 cylinder and a 2022 Tacoma SR5 4x4 6 cylinder. I use to do all my own oil changes but Toyota has made it more difficult for me at 67 years old. I don’t trust my dealership maintenance shop to fully service my vehicles
Totally agree about not opening the cap on the metal cartridge housing, it's never leaked on mine. Best to just leave it be and deal with a miniscule amount of extra spill.
I got a survey from TH-cam on this video! Gave you big thumbs up and marked it informative
The Toyota dealership overtightened the filter on my 4runner and it took my breaker bar to get it off and it broke the housing. The plastic housing was $144 and the metal one $39. I did swap out the tube and have not had a problem since.
Same with my tundra
Same with my FJ. Also, I use a special brass fitting to drain the Housing. Clean and mess free! And, don't over torque it; use a Torque Wrench.
You are the best in the world. I really enjoy watching your videos. Everything you say makes sense. I own a 2007 4runner and 2012 Camry hybrid and lucky me I have no major issues yet. I have learned a lot of things because of your dedication of teaching people like us to do the correct basic preventive maintenance on Toyotas. Glad to have you as a mentor. Best wishes from GA.
I see that you’re from GA. Do you know of any good Toyota shop in Metro Atlanta? Thanks!
A lot of us on a popular 4Runner forum have removed the standpipe from the OEM plastic housing and installed it into a genuine Toyota metal housing PN 15620-31060 to make it the correct height. The tabs are bent to changeover the standpipe even though the CarCarNut recommends against it at 11:20-12:30
Can The Care Care Nut address this? Just recently bought a 4runner and would like more information before I do my first oil change
I did the same but I bought a dorman one from Napa. Now he's got me rethinking it.
@@Gilbertmk2 The Doorman is usually fine. Just make sure the correct pipe is installed and change the 2 O rings. Check to make sure the rest of the filter housing is assembled correctly.
I have done the OEM metal housing filter housing with the standpipe swap in both my 4Runner and my Tundra. It’s worked in both vehicles so far just fine. I’m not worried about me cracking the housing, but was worried that a mechanic may crack the housing in the event I need to get it serviced.
I personally don’t see why you’d change to the metal housing. Modern plastics are as strong, or stronger than the aluminum used. You’re not gaining anything by changing it.
I used to work as an automotive technician and at the time I did a lot of research on the filters we used to sell and most of the brand named ones were trash. According to some of the articles I read and videos I watched a few of the cheap filters were some of the best performing/or performed as well as the expensive brands and I was quite shocked after finding that out. Worse was finding out that some brands that have a basic filter and a premium version of that same basic one were practically the same exact thing just that the premium filter has a different colored o-ring and says premium on it! That's just ridiculous! That's not the case with all but some might be like that.
Again this was research I did around 2017-18. Not sure if the quality of those filters stayed the same, or gotten better or worse. Just do your research and save money.
Something I’ve seen a good few times with the plastic cartridge filter housing is that it had been way over tightened, and the tabs on the outside get broken off. Over tightening of these filters seems like the most common problem. I had heard that the local dealership even has techs put them on with an impact gun!
Problem is, techs at the Toyota dealerships are the ones most famous for destroying the plastic housing! 😅
You are so correct. When I bought my 2010 Camry, I performed my 1st oil change and realized that the plastic oil filter housing tabs were severely bent. I was the 2nd owner and the car was only service at the Toyota dealership. Every oil change, even wiper blades were bought from Toyota. So I changed it out with the OEM Toyota Metal one.
They just destroyed mine!
The dealer always OVER TIGHTEN EVERYTHING.
That’s how they get you to buy new parts
Toyota will destroy your luggnuts.. The technician claims it was already striped. Case closed. 😆 Speaking to a toyota Technician. He said why waste time with a torque wrench? Impact off and impact on..
Good video. I have both "plastic" and Aluminium version on my Toyotas. Never had a problem with either. From an environmental perspective the canister type is better, less wastage. As for aftermarket parts, 100% agree why bother?
I like the K&N filters with synthetic oil, I’ve been running this combo since 2004 in my 4.0L 4-Runner now with 487k on it.
can't argue with that!
Same here! I find that even after 5,000 miles that the oil still looks quite clean. Best combo I’ve found.
at 487K , you probably have changed the rear main seal to prevent engine oil leaks and probably have changed out all 4 o2 sensors and that transmission probably has been replaced. Has your toyota transmission ever been replaced?
We have ordered a 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR in Canada and really appreciate your videos to understand how to look after it. We hope you keep the videos coming. Thanks so much
The comments regarding doorman filter housing is so true. Do not use anything other than factory. Ran into this with my ‘12 sequoia who’s previous owner used doorman. I had no pro
Our experience with this type of housing so didn’t notice the inner tube was missing. Come winter with temps just below 0, the filter was crushed and started having issues with timing belt tensioner. For me, it’s factory parts whenever possible!
You make many, many great points. Cover all the bases. Imo the spin on filters benefits still outweigh the downside. I don’t want to fight a filter that someone else installed wrong. And I don’t know why they even put that drain on the canisters because even if you drain them as much as possible, they still spill oil. The whole thing is just maddening. I do buy better filters then factory because I keep my cars for decades and it does make a difference over time. Best thing about spin on is the fact that the brand and line is printed right on the can.
I personally think the canister (just the filtration element) types are better if you want to keep a check on engine wear. It is much easier to see if you are getting metal sparkles in the oil.
Install an oil drain valve.
By that time it's too late.
You can use an oil filter cutting tool for the same effect on the canister styles. There are a lot of members at the shop that do this with new builds to track what you are describing. Looks kinda like the cap cutter for a wine bottle when you cut the aluminum sleeve off before de-corking the bottle.
@@josephspellman2698 wine bottle foil!?
Mr fancy here.
😉
Easier to see if the filter element fell apart. Heard this happening to Purolator filters but never got around to cutting one apart.
I never mess with that over-designed drain cap in my ES350. It's too easy just to remove the whole cannister and have a good drain pan below.
Love your channel. I was a Toyota tech for ten years. I've always hated that plug to drain it.
Thank you for posting this. I have never thought of engine oil as a hydraulic fluid that operates the variable valve timing systems. I take your point.
great info - makes you realize what we take for granted what an oil filter actually does and how important the parts are in the filter. I wish I could find a dealer that cares about my car even half of how much I care for it. Almost going stop my subrscription to this channel because tired of hearing toyota oil and oil filters are the best and are made for Toyotas. Wish he would actually show how it is made for the toyotas. Seems like they still have valve cover gaskets that end up leaking using toyota oil. I have had cars with over 200,000 miles when I sold them using nothing but Amsoil oil and they all had the original pcv valve and all the original gaskets and they never leaked oil only when the toyota dealer couldn't put their great filter on right and the oil level never changed between 7500 mile oil changes.
I have a neighbor - a little old lady who gets service by the dealer every six months and uses their oil and filter and she barely drives because her 2005 toyota camry only has 85,000 miles and she has already had to have a valve cover replaced. ANY vehicle that I have had and used Amsoil since day one has never had any kind of engine gasket replaced that kept in oil. That was even on some crappy GM products too. I wish I could find the specs on Toyota oil so I can see the flash point and cold flow point of their oil.
Understanding the difference between the canister and the spin on filter is a revelation! I never had a canister filter until I got a Toyota Camry 2017. I was puzzled by this design until I watched this video. Thank you so much!
My first adventure with the canister style filter was in a 67 Chevy Impala. I was surprised to see it in my daughter's Toyota. The Toyota canister is about 10x messier than the old Chevy style, which was basically one large steel container instead of all the piece/parts of the Toyota canister.
I change my own oil and found the exact same things as you have shown. Don’t bother with the bottom plug on the cartridge . Yes it’s messy but safer. Always use OEM parts. Never over tighten these filters. The o ring seals. I agree with you plastic sucks but use OEM. I really prefer the screw on cartridges. Easy and hard to screw up. I worry about someday day taking my Hylander in for service. You never know what they did. Toyota use to have oil filters on top. Messy but easy to drain if you poke a hole in top and wait. So easy so simple.
You are expert in your videos. Keep up the good work.
OEM is best for most people! I wish I would have known 50 years ago! Thank you for your advice!!! Love your channel!
Yes I agree... they designed the engine, they designed the filter to spec , it works and just use it..change the oil and filter every 5k and as you say.. to quote you.. life is good ! Keep up the great work, AMD ! :- ) Almost time for my 5k interval change... next weekend . I'm glad it hit now and not mid-january LOL !
However..., they're all designed with allowable tolerances.
Car engines are not some magical precision device that are sensitive down to .005 psi...
Operating tolerances may be bit lower on German cars. But, all mainstream American and Japanese cars have tolerance designed into them.
So no need to lose our nerve on these topics.
Key is to change early and and on time.
@@digitalkov the bypass is inside the engine oil filter bracket. The little spring under the riser tube helps keep the filter centered and presses down on a plate that allows oil to flow when you use the handy drain spout. The filter housings are the same but the riser tubes interchange easily. Just remember to bend the tabs back to prevent the tube from rotating while installing. Use the same tube that came with the vehicle.
I just use the WIX/Napa Gold oil filter in my 21 4Runner. Never had any issues with them in my previous vehicles.
I am told I am overpaying for a "deluxe" filter too but it's little cost compared to an engine rebuild or replacement.
@@chuck_howard I've gotten this too. The Napa Gold filter are well made and provide excellent filtration. I don't consider $12.99 to be expensive at all.
@@4x4gear33 If the Mobile 1 filter was not available I would go with the Napa filter too. A few extra bucks to make my engine last 200,000 miles or more is worth it.
One small nit that I’ve seen in almost all oil filter videos- the anti-drainback valve does not prevent the oil from leaving the filter. It prevents unfiltered oil from draining back. In other words the sludge and particles from the “dirty” side (that is, the inlet) would otherwise flow back toward the pump/pan. On a vertical installation (baseplate facing down), the oil will absolutely drain down, but only through the outlet, where it will have been filtered. It does NOT provide uninterrupted oil flow at start. Anyone who has changed a baseplate facing down filter with an ADV a few minutes after the engine has stopped can attest to the filter being nearly empty.
Yeah that's making a lot of sense. Well I always look at my filters because quality is a joke these days. The modular 07-21 cartridge filters have the bypass in the bracket anyway. That spring is only to hold pressure on the drain valve for the included plastic spout when you get a filter. I like how the A25 engine and the new Toyotas have spin ons again.
Good information, at first I thought the newer filters systems from toyota were a gimmick, but after changing it just once with the right tools, its not that bad. I'm sticking with it and I'm not switching to a metal after market after watching this.
Very informative. Explicit.
I like mine when I got used to it. I change my own oil and mines the canister type on a 3.5 liter engine rav4. It has the smaller drain plug that allows you to drain it so there's no spilling out of it before you twist the canister off. Much less messy.
Good point about using only OEM filters. You can't go wrong.
My first car is a '09 Corolla with 58k miles (2018) and still runs extremely well. All your videos are really informative and educational for me and others. Thank you!! 😃👍
Bruh that things a baby of course it's gonna run well 😂 my 98 4runner with 208K runs like a dream 👌
I would really really hope that your car of only 14 years old with less than 60000 On it would still be running extremely well. That being said I'm not trying to sound like a Dick and I'm stoked that you have that car as it is definitely low mileage for the year. I'm sure it will last you the rest of your life properly maintained. Heck it might not even need to be properly maintained considering my buddy has a Camry from the late 80s and barely does any maintenance whatsoever when the thing is already over 380000 km😅 👍🏻
@@lazroo Same here I've got a 99 Camry V6 excellent and I'm just about to hit 210,000. Other than some paint damage and dense here or there the thingwithout a doubt the most reliable car I've ever owned and will ever own. Which is why I also have a 96 of the exact same model 😂 . If they didn't quadruple in price on the used market once the wu-flu hit and people wanted a inexpensive reliable car regardless of whether or not it looked a new or fancy I would have a half-dozen more than I currently do😂 I got mine for $1200 Canadian with only a 160000 on the engine, Leather interior full electric everything... Now you cannot even find one in that shape or condition and if You do not Only is it gonna be a Minimum of $4500 it's gonna need new tires brake pads fluid CHANGE and likely we'll have More than a bit of paint Damage or fading as I've seen with everyone that I do end up seeing on The Used market since I bought Mine. I'm very glad that I picked it up right before wu-flu infected the world
Thank you so much for educating me, Master AMD!
I have never seen the inside of an oil filter before!
Thank you so much for spending your precious time on this topic!
Hello, as an engineer I enjoy to self service my V8 Toyota and I totally agree with your video. Here's a tip: the thermal expansion of the black plastic canister is 4 times that of the alloy housing that it screws into so these housings get real snug tight as the engine heats to temperature. It's why they never unscrew. Any tight to unscrew housing will unscrew easily when cold. While engine oil should be dropped hot so all the flocculant rubbish in suspension can gush out, after you clean the filter housing and slide the new filter, find a way to cool it before refitting. It will screw on earier.
You should replace hot oil since it has oil sediments shaken and dissolved. In cold engine it all falls down into crankcase.
This video was great for me because I always change my own oil. My daughter bought a 2014 SR5 Toyota 4Runner and I was going to change the oil. I am so happy that I have researched this topic, because it's not as easy as my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherooke. I have bought the metal ones from Amazon and now I am thinking I will use it as a backup and stick with the plastic one for now. Great information and thank you so much!
thank you for your videos. I recently purchased a 2013 tundra and it had the same exact aftermarket dorman oil cap. I went to my dealer and purchased OEM cap for $103.08
Man i appreciate your professionalism, im an auto glass technician and its hard to come by people who are professional, educated and clean with their work space.
A year or two ago, the Wix/NapaGold filters were equivalent in price to Toyota filters (for my model at least), but now the Toyota filters are much less expensive because Toyota did not double their prices like everybody did, their prices stayed the same. And the other advantage is that the Toyota cartridge filters fit more precisely/tightly over the center tube, the Wix/NapaGold are loose, very loose.
Every wix filter I’ve fitted to my Tacoma fits perfectly in the cartridge.
Interesting. I was about to buy exactly Napa Gold. Hmm….
@@nicholaspetre1 You could give your local Toyota dealer a call to see their price and pick one up, and also pick one up from Napa and see the difference for yourself, not that much $ for peace of mind. Also FWIW, the Napa Gold fiters for my model were made in Mexico a few years ago, now they're made in China, and even looser on the center tube. At this point I simply go to a Toyota dealership for all my parts since I realized the techs who say "you'll never get a better part than OEM" are pretty much right. Especially now when you consider the artificially inflated prices of the aftermarket world.
EDIT: OH I forgot about oil pan washers, I was buying aftermarket drain plug washers (still the blue gasketing material laminated on both sides of a steel washer like Toyota does, but not the same) and they were always sticking like crazy and delaminating either on the pan itself or on the screw/plug, I had to use a steel plaster spatula to pry off the glued gasketing materiel on the pan or the screw, then I switched to Toyota ones and the crazy sticking and delaminating issue went right away, no problems since.
It's the small things like this that make you realize Toyota knows more about how to make parts right than the aftermarket world.
@@gtfkt thanks for sharing, very interesting actually. The primary reason I wanted to buy Napa Gold is because those OEM filters made in China - YZZA4 are so shitty and look like crap in hands. They are so weak and literally falling apart when you touch them. Have a few pleats. I dont know if these OEM filters can do any good in 5.7 L engine. I know many mechanics say they are still good but I am just trying to do my own due diligence since I am the one whose gonna be responsible for the parts I am buying. I ve used Napa Plat and Gold in past and never had problems. Made in China actually does not mean its bad, everything is made there these days, it is just that the filter itself looks like a joke.
My filter is the YZZA6 (made in Thailand), much smaller. Yours shouldn't be falling apart tho... unless you're doing something you shouldn't be doing. The Napa Gold/WIX is made the same way as the Toyota ones except Toyota's center plastic binder material is transparent instead of yellow.
They all look like a joke because they're cartridge filters made for a relatively non-demanding application, the standard steel sprin-on filters have the exact same filtering element inside.
From purely a mechanical standpoint, I think cartridge filters are a much better idea than spin-on because you can directly see any foreign material stuck in the filter when you remove it, unlike a spin-on which you have to cut apart to get to the filter and sinpect it. @@nicholaspetre1
I used to only drive VWs and my wife was a Volvo fan but circumstances eventually led us into both owning Toyotas (My brother wrecked my '69 VW bus!) and your videos have been a tremendous help in learning the ins and outs. I am driving a 2007 Matrix with almost 250K on it and it still runs good if a bit sluggish shifting gears. My wife likes newer cars and is in a 2015 Camry SE. Not going to say I don't miss the bus, though.
WWII in plastic nice dude! I have a 2006 Matrix base, & I assume you mean 250K miles/400,000 km. Because mine has 244,000 km/151000 miles. It shifts just like new. Has the transmission fluid ever been changed on yours? If it’s a bit sluggish, then just don’t abuse it all the time. If you drive it correctly, it might go another 100,000 miles if you baby it. I’ve seen old old late 80’s early 90’s Toyota automatics shift hard when super high mileage, but if the owner took care of it, it could go on that way for nearly another 100,000 miles. What kind of shape is the rest of the car in, cosmetically & mechanically? Just unusually curious because I have the exact same car just a year older.
Blake is right on changing transmission fluid to cure the sluggish gear-shifting.
@@Blakecryderman7244 I do mean miles. It's not in great shape on the exterior--missing the front logo, all the door handles are broken or badly cracked but I am ordering replacements, both tail lights have damaged plastic covers, and it is scratched and dinged. Has the standard Georgia cracked windshield. My wife was nice enough to scrape a pole in a parking lot so the driver's fender is creased. On the plus side, the prior owner kept the cargo netting and other accessories in the back and it has a nicer stereo (which I installed for her years earlier). I have not done the tranny fluid but I have replaced the front rotors. All in all a good buy for the $300 I paid.
@@vancheeliu6794 Yes, it is something to look at but the weather has not been great lately and I don't have cover to work under.
I was VW only. I’ll never sell my 92GTI 16v, but I appreciate the no nonsense experience of my 2015 Scion XB. The manual makes it a bit entertaining.
I've been doing my own oil changes since 1975. I always know what oil is in there, what filter and if I did it right. This video got me thinking - what do Toyota original oil filters cost - $5.97. I've used mostly FRAM in the past but I may change.
Honestly this is how I felt about oil change in general but dealership said otherwise..but this simple honest information made me consider sooner change on all 3 vehicles one being a Honda…now that cooler weather is coming
I thought about coverting my plastic oil housing to metal housing. Glad I saw this video before switching. Very informative as always!!
High quality plastic >>> cheap steel
Excellent video. Don't forget there are a lot filters out there that look like and say Toyota filters but they are not. I purchased myself 5 of those clones from Amazon. They have all the original markings in the box and filters but they are not Toyota filters. When you compare them to the original, you can see the differences.
Yep. That why I only buy from the dealer part department or eBay seller from a Toyota dealer.
AMD has a separate video on counterfeit Toyota filters.
@@jml9550 got a 10 pack from Toyota of conicelli.
@@boostedmaniac bought from them before. Great seller.
Excellent, informative, comprehensive video, your experience really shines through. Helps me a lot in making informed decisions for myself. I bought a conversion kit into a spin on but hadn't installed it yet, now I won't. One of my favourite channels. Great work!
Bought the Preown (leased) 2016 Rav4 from Toyota dealer and then did the "first oil change" myself. Lo and behold, the plastic filter cartridge was extremely tight. I had to use breaker bar to unscrew it. Then the plastic tab of the filter cartridge broke and oil started to leak out. Thank you so much for the Toyota tech. who over tighten the filter cartridge. I bought a new cartridge from dealer and tightened the cartridge per the torque spec. on the filter element. Never have any problem to unscrew the cartridge since then.
Very food information, however I have been to many classes on oil and filters, and was always told the "bypass" valves in oil filters operate on "differential pressure" to open the bypass valve. Every vehicle has a specific pressure point that opens the bypass valve. I have seen 8-10 PSi on some filters, and some as high as 10-15 PSI.
Thank you for a very well reasoned discussion about oil filters in Toyota engines. 🙏
Great advice, to the point and without any "scare tactics." Thank you.
I had a plastic cap break when I was removing, because the previous person who worked on it over tightened it. I ended up buying the aftermarket metal one not knowing the information about the bypass. Now I'm going to go back to the OEM.
One question: is the spring the same on the metal vs plastic OEM covers?
Great advice ! I'm with you a hundred percent, but I always wondered about the metal filter housings for both my 5.7 motors. Glad I kept the filter housings orginal !
Funny how they went back to metal on the latest version
@@breckfreeride It is because the plastic one breaks over time. I don't think it heat cycles well. The real Toyota metal one is a LOT better, just don't get the Doorman knockoff and be careful transfering the spring and you'll be fine.
@@flatspin99 Yes. It's not as simple as just being metal. The Toyota designed and made oil filter housing will be better than that Dorman one.
I always just make sure I use a Ryco oil filter in my daily 2001 Corolla and also in my e46 m3.
I never knew why my Corolla used a normal filter and my m3 uses cartridges.
Know I know the difference in function.
I learned something today.
Thank you
When I bought my new oil filter, I used Wix, I replaced the o-ring on my 2012 Prius. Toyota does make fantastic Parts but is tha o- ring reusable and not supposed to be replaced at each cartridge change
Thank you for spending the time to make these videos.
Thanks again for another very informative video! I’ve learned so much from your channel and only wish I had a local mechanic like you!
When tightening the filter cartridge, once it stops moving, I stop tightening it. the O ring is what seals it.
Bingo!
Thank you for a simple, straightforward explanation! Since retirement, I have started to change my own oil again. I'd rather do it and be sure than take it somewhere and have to hope they did it with the right stuff.
I greatly prefer canister types. But even better than Toyota is top mount canister types like most BMWs and Subarus (and a couple others) have. It makes changing them so much easier.
The Dodge Grand Caravan 3.6 cartridge filter is installed from the top.
This video actually taught me a couple of things. First, you explained the differences between the 2 style of filters. I bought a 2017 Sienna last year, and that was the first time I ever encountered the canister style housing. I did some research on how to change the oil when it’s due. This was going to be a learning curve for me. It really isn’t that bad. I did buy a new canister before my first oil change was due, just in case. Well, I’m glad I did. When I removed the canister from the car, the inside parts just fell apart. I will admit, I tried to repair it, but then thought, why, when I have a new one. I compared the parts and discovered the one I had just removed did not say Toyota. It was an aftermarket piece. The new one I had bought was from Toyota and I’m glad I had it. Still get a little nervous doing the oil change, but I just take my time and all goes well. The second thing I learned was, I have been using Wix filters for over 10 years, and they have worked very well for me. A few years ago, I thought about using a “better” filter, but thought, why. If what I’m using is doing the job, with no problems, stay with it. You just reconfirmed that. Thank you for putting up these videos. I love hearing the straight scoop from someone such as you, that services Toyotas on a daily basis. Again thank you, and may God Bless you!