Great tips: I am so glad that you spoke to people like me with a budget set up. That is 80% of bike owners. Many of these types of videos are for people with bikes that cost well into the 1000s.
After fiddling around with the wife's v-brakes for years and failing, finally, a video that helped me get them sorted at last - they work a treat now, better than ever. Thanks!
Degreasing with “Simple Green” degreaser on the rim’s braking surface would optimize more braking power to the point of like having disc brakes. Make sure the brake pads are toe in properly. My recommendation for high quality rim brake pads are “Kool Stop Dual Compound” brake pads. The Kool Stop Company have been around for many years since probably the 1980s. They work in both wet and dry conditions. Peace ✌️
After replacing hard stock pads on cheap bike with kool stops it's too easy to go otb) And softer compound will not ruin rims instantly (as long as they are kept clean, of course). Pricey but worthy.
1 eq 0 dot 99999 repeating They are not pricey but worth it to me. To prevent going over the bars than you need to know how modulate the braking power to prevent going over the bars. I know how to do it.
The reason the screw that is holding the brake arm in at the pivot is hard to loosen is "thread-lock" it serves the same purpose as a lock washer, it's so that CANNOT loosen up for any reason unless it's forced to. You don't need brakes falling of the bike due to vibration.
To the last tip - you just need to unclip the cable and squeeze the top of both caliper arms, that way you will see if the pads are adjusted or not and while you are squeezing the arms to the rim you can adjust them with some help or if you dont have help, you can just release the brakes unscrew them a little and start squeezing the arms again and while its pushed to the rim, you can adjust it
I own a number of older bikes. My choice of v-brakes are either Deore or XT when I find them. Jagwire pads, cables and housing. I've upgraded a friend's older GT aggressor (like the one in your video) and made major difference in stopping. Pads, cables and housing are not expensive and can turn a turd of a bike into a gem. Great informative video bro.
Bit by bit and Don't when the cable is inside. Haha.. I actually always have that picture in my head everytime I cut cables, and makes my heart beat faster.
Thank you very much, your video is of great help, I have to watch it several times since I can't afford disc brakes because I have to change rims and when I go to disc I would buy something of quality and that is more expensive than my bike :D So this video and just one more from park tool are the best I've seen.
One thing I would like to know is what is the limit of those wheels in terms of performance once they are well tuned? That would be great for many of us who don't have double wall rims.
Thanks for the video, it's very explanatory! I wanted to ask you if the bike you rode in the trail footage had v-brakes? What do you think of riding a v-brake bike on blue-difficulty trails? I'm not very keen on upgrading my mtb at the moment, so I'd like to squeeze every inch of performance out of it without spending a lot of money :) Cheers!
Lol no because if it’s hydraulic, then that means their is brake fluid and not a cable. It is completely sealed and the housing won’t move since it’s just brake fluid.
they are a lot easier to work on though not worried about bleeding my brakes every year just pop on a new cable and unless you are racing or doing red bull rampage type suff cable pull brakes are all you need
@@ivan-_-6192 exactly its all about price. V brakes have much lower tolerance so easier to work with. Also I don't care if i burn a pair of V brakes doing donuts, I def won't feel the same. About expensive disks..
Great video! I have cheap shimano pads on my MTB, but would like to have more stopping power without breaking the bank. Which pads are the most bang for the money?
Shimano sucks and damages rims, odyssey red or discontinued gum stops fast without much squeaks, swissstop bxp are ok, had to try koolstops but they are probably similar.
You unscrewed the brake pivot with brake bolt? Congrats! :-) What I use for lubrication is Hilti hammer grease. Does the job and seals the brake, so no moisture nor dirt can emter the cantilever area.
I had a set of Planet X carbon wheels which I badged as HED for elite drafting races which require wheels to be be on the UCI approved list Is that what you mean?
Sucks that there is no good rim brake pads, swissstop bxp is the best so far from not bmx specific ones but still not as good as odyssey in gum, the rest squeak like crazy.
Don't lube your cables, just don't. It will attrack more dirt and therefore wear out faster eventually. Cables are cheap, when they are done they are done. On new cables you can clean them with WD-40 before installing them but don't lube them. Also don't invest in teflon pre coated cables, the teflon coating will wear-out fast and then clog up your cable housing. Polymer coated cables don't have these issues but many brands have shown that top-tier innercables can also be polished and perform just as good in the long-run. Keep the internals free from dirt is the best you can do. Use outer caps with tongues where possible and make sure that rain can't directly rain in to the cables. If you did submerge a part of your bike in the water you need to clean the cables after your ride to prefent rust! (as shown @4:55, no lube, some cleaning with WD-40 is fine)
It's always been like that, having it the way you described would drive me nuts. I'm pretty sure it's standard for the front brake to be on the left for bicycles, you never confuse it with a motorcycle
Spacing the rear end of the regarded as cheap rubbish but highly effective clamp brakes simply go around your wheel wrap between 2 spokes with 2 layers of electrician tape to create a space, tighten pads, remove tape, violai no vibration noise from pads.
That is under EU law. V-brakes are more effective braking power and modulation as shown in video because of cable routing to the caliper accept hydraulic brakes which makes no difference.
You mean the spring/tension screw on the side of brake caliper arm. Yeah I think SickBiker shows this in another video episode but he should show on this episode also
Simple green is really bad for Aluminum. If your gonna use simple green use the Simple green Pro it's safe for Aluminum. Plain simple green is actually damaging your rim and making it porous and rough.
Wrong. On most cheap bikes with no-name brakes (as he mentions in the video) the brake cables are NOT coated, so you will be better off putting oil in them.
They are not dangerous and I have been using them for over twenty years and I have no issues with proper maintenance on the bike. I could make my V Brakes stop like it was Disc Brakes. Don’t make this assumption on V Brakes. The best V Brake pads are from “Kool Stop”.
@@evelasq1 I doubt you would, you obviouslly haven't seen bike disc brakes in action and even ride one with them. Not to mention disc brakes work in any weather. Yes they are dangerous, had countless accidents with them, never had accident with disc brakes and I've been riding bikes sincer early 90's.
Zagica I have ridden V Brakes in all types of weather and they work great. I have been in snowy conditions, rain and dry weather. There must of been something wrong with your previous setup. I have done downhills on City Bridges at maximum of 26.4 Miles per hour. I have gone up to 28 Miles per hour on a city streets. Disc brakes are about the same thing. V Brakes offer brake modulation more than Disc Brakes. Quality Rim Brakes perform nearly as good as Disc Brakes. At least I don’t have to bleed the brakes. If I wanted hydraulic V Brakes than I can do it by using Magura Hydraulic V Brakes. Or I could have Magura Disc Brakes in the front and Magura V Brakes in the back.
Kent Nilsson not everyone is buying at that place in the market. Some super cheap bikes still come with v brakes and often aren’t assembled that well . If this helps just one person get on the trails then it’s worthwhile
@Kent Nilsson hey I have a cookie for you buddy its awesome you have hydraulic disc brakes dude! Guess us mortals have to keep dealing with V Brakes. Some of us mortals have have more than one bike in our stable that we have to maintain. I have to maintain both systems. The more you know the more you grow.
Great tips: I am so glad that you spoke to people like me with a budget set up. That is 80% of bike owners. Many of these types of videos are for people with bikes that cost well into the 1000s.
After fiddling around with the wife's v-brakes for years and failing, finally, a video that helped me get them sorted at last - they work a treat now, better than ever. Thanks!
Degreasing with “Simple Green” degreaser on the rim’s braking surface would optimize more braking power to the point of like having disc brakes. Make sure the brake pads are toe in properly. My recommendation for high quality rim brake pads are “Kool Stop Dual Compound” brake pads. The Kool Stop Company have been around for many years since probably the 1980s. They work in both wet and dry conditions. Peace ✌️
After replacing hard stock pads on cheap bike with kool stops it's too easy to go otb) And softer compound will not ruin rims instantly (as long as they are kept clean, of course). Pricey but worthy.
1 eq 0 dot 99999 repeating They are not pricey but worth it to me. To prevent going over the bars than you need to know how modulate the braking power to prevent going over the bars. I know how to do it.
@@evelasq1 I mean diff between old woody pads and new KS's is huge. Of course one shouldn't brake mindlessly but that applies to any brakes.
i can tell you know what you are talking about im going to give that simple green a try
David Jenkins Good luck to you and please try to get the Kool Stop Brake Pads. Believe me that they do work very well in both wet and dry conditions.
My V-brake based commute bike was in a mess. Thanks it helped.
Solid video, I like it.
Bruh he didn't pinned or give ya heart it means he doesn't love other yt
The reason the screw that is holding the brake arm in at the pivot is hard to loosen is "thread-lock" it serves the same purpose as a lock washer, it's so that CANNOT loosen up for any reason unless it's forced to.
You don't need brakes falling of the bike due to vibration.
To the last tip - you just need to unclip the cable and squeeze the top of both caliper arms, that way you will see if the pads are adjusted or not and while you are squeezing the arms to the rim you can adjust them with some help or if you dont have help, you can just release the brakes unscrew them a little and start squeezing the arms again and while its pushed to the rim, you can adjust it
I do the same thing but I also release the springs that hold brakes open, you can line up each brake pad up with the rim by yourself.
I own a number of older bikes. My choice of v-brakes are either Deore or XT when I find them. Jagwire pads, cables and housing. I've upgraded a friend's older GT aggressor (like the one in your video) and made major difference in stopping. Pads, cables and housing are not expensive and can turn a turd of a bike into a gem. Great informative video bro.
agree with jagwire cables real nice
I’m a bike newbie. Will these cables work for a folding bike? Ty
Yeah, cleaning rim braking surface, as suggested. And filing off glazed layer from brake pads to maximize friction and slow down rim wear.
Great advice as always
Bit by bit and Don't when the cable is inside. Haha.. I actually always have that picture in my head everytime I cut cables, and makes my heart beat faster.
GREAT tips to know. Appreciate this informative video. Thanks 4 sharing! Cheers !!😎😎😎😎😎
Great video, thanks very much!
Thank you very much, your video is of great help, I have to watch it several times since I can't afford disc brakes because I have to change rims and when I go to disc I would buy something of quality and that is more expensive than my bike :D So this video and just one more from park tool are the best I've seen.
I’d add one more tip: use some samdpaper / emery paper on your wheel rims to refresh the braking surface and help prevent squeaking
One thing I would like to know is what is the limit of those wheels in terms of performance once they are well tuned? That would be great for many of us who don't have double wall rims.
Great tips! Thanks!
Thanks for the video, it's very explanatory! I wanted to ask you if the bike you rode in the trail footage had v-brakes? What do you think of riding a v-brake bike on blue-difficulty trails? I'm not very keen on upgrading my mtb at the moment, so I'd like to squeeze every inch of performance out of it without spending a lot of money :)
Cheers!
Really good, thank you
I don't even have V brakes but it's a great vid
Hi Danny! What tires are these? Brand and model, please. Thanks!
It’s called the wtb
The brake can be disassembled but the bold was too tight and removed the whole stud
Wait can I use like the chain oil or does it have to be a different type ??
I ve got roaters ? Disk hydraulic ! Does it still apply ?
No.
haha
Lol no because if it’s hydraulic, then that means their is brake fluid and not a cable. It is completely sealed and the housing won’t move since it’s just brake fluid.
Damn, cable pull brakes, I never realized, pretty much rely upon the cable housing 100%. They are pretty shaky bridges looking back at how they work.
they are a lot easier to work on though not worried about bleeding my brakes every year just pop on a new cable and unless you are racing or doing red bull rampage type suff cable pull brakes are all you need
Have shimano mechanical disc brake very good also in wet conditions plus safer easy to repair
Are v brakes still used on mountain bikes?
Yes
In cheap ones...
@@PiotrK2022 well yes no one has 5000 for a “good” bike
@@ivan-_-6192 exactly its all about price. V brakes have much lower tolerance so easier to work with. Also I don't care if i burn a pair of V brakes doing donuts, I def won't feel the same. About expensive disks..
I have suntour sf14 xrx32 Air fork but am looking for upgrade, so any suggestions?
How much travel?
Great video!
I have cheap shimano pads on my MTB, but would like to have more stopping power without breaking the bank.
Which pads are the most bang for the money?
Koolstop
I use the salmons
koolstop +1;
clarks tri-color also.
kool stop for the win
Shimano sucks and damages rims, odyssey red or discontinued gum stops fast without much squeaks, swissstop bxp are ok, had to try koolstops but they are probably similar.
Super
Super!
Sounds like I'm listening to a Ruff Ryder's album 😁
What happened to your Enduro bike? We wanted to see you sending it
You unscrewed the brake pivot with brake bolt? Congrats! :-) What I use for lubrication is Hilti hammer grease. Does the job and seals the brake, so no moisture nor dirt can emter the cantilever area.
lol right
Can you make video or give advice about replica wheels (triathlon). Is there some safe websites and are replicas safe?
I had a set of Planet X carbon wheels which I badged as HED for elite drafting races which require wheels to be be on the UCI approved list
Is that what you mean?
Sucks that there is no good rim brake pads, swissstop bxp is the best so far from not bmx specific ones but still not as good as odyssey in gum, the rest squeak like crazy.
They only squeak in the rain tho
@@ulysses4989 wrong
Sorry, no tricks in this video... Just normal breaks maintenance.
but you watched so he is good at titles lol
Brakes lol
real life canti socket problem detected 🙈
so lets ooo baby :D 8:32
Don't lube your cables, just don't. It will attrack more dirt and therefore wear out faster eventually. Cables are cheap, when they are done they are done.
On new cables you can clean them with WD-40 before installing them but don't lube them. Also don't invest in teflon pre coated cables, the teflon coating will wear-out fast and then clog up your cable housing. Polymer coated cables don't have these issues but many brands have shown that top-tier innercables can also be polished and perform just as good in the long-run.
Keep the internals free from dirt is the best you can do. Use outer caps with tongues where possible and make sure that rain can't directly rain in to the cables. If you did submerge a part of your bike in the water you need to clean the cables after your ride to prefent rust! (as shown @4:55, no lube, some cleaning with WD-40 is fine)
Or just upgrade shimano deore lever and v brake
Why do you have the rear brake on the right lever? Right lever should ALWAYS be front brakes just like on a motorcycle. Why confuse the issue? 😮
It's always been like that, having it the way you described would drive me nuts. I'm pretty sure it's standard for the front brake to be on the left for bicycles, you never confuse it with a motorcycle
Supposedly, that's how it is in mainland Europe. In the United Kingdom, the United States and Japan, the right brake lever engages the front brakes.
@@StephenBanyarnot true, I’m in the us & the right lever is the rear, left lever is the front, makes sense to me
no hacks in the video.
Spacing the rear end of the regarded as cheap rubbish but highly effective clamp brakes simply go around your wheel wrap between 2 spokes with 2 layers of electrician tape to create a space, tighten pads, remove tape, violai no vibration noise from pads.
What
Or you could use a rubber band, and reuse for a loooong time
Those bakes are reversed to UK FRONT RIGHT,LEFT BACK here???????
Yes yours are reversed
That is under EU law.
V-brakes are more effective braking power and modulation as shown in video because of cable routing to the caliper accept hydraulic brakes which makes no difference.
Greatt video. Fixing my V - brakes tomorrow. Just to make sure I don`t mess anything up. By the way Danny where are you from? :D
1st bro
Lubing doesn't fix pivot friction and it's stamped so no way dissasemble.
👍🏾🙏🏾
Indian legends are touch and cut the video
At 11.45 " The right arm isn't moving so I need to adjust that"......and then you didn't.
You mean the spring/tension screw on the side of brake caliper arm. Yeah I think SickBiker shows this in another video episode but he should show on this episode also
Simple green is really bad for Aluminum. If your gonna use simple green use the Simple green Pro it's safe for Aluminum. Plain simple green is actually damaging your rim and making it porous and rough.
Why are you making stuff slow and making vids longer dude ?
N.y
5 hacks? it should be called common maintananance.
None of these are really “hacks” it’s just common sense
The breaks on my 300$ bike doesnt break lol i have to use both foot to break...i almost killed myself in downtown where theres lots of trafic...
some people never had bikes before so what may be common sense to you is great knowledge to others.
@@pokiblue5870 change your BRAKE pads then
Oil on the Cable destroy the Teflonsurface,never add Oil on Cables
What about TPF lubricant instead of mineral oil?
Wrong. On most cheap bikes with no-name brakes (as he mentions in the video) the brake cables are NOT coated, so you will be better off putting oil in them.
I think mineral oil would do no harm, right?
No o0ne uses crappy v brakes on mountain bikes in 2019. They are dangerous.
They are not dangerous and I have been using them for over twenty years and I have no issues with proper maintenance on the bike. I could make my V Brakes stop like it was Disc Brakes. Don’t make this assumption on V Brakes. The best V Brake pads are from “Kool Stop”.
I'm even happy with my canti brakes! Now that's oldschool lol
@@evelasq1 I doubt you would, you obviouslly haven't seen bike disc brakes in action and even ride one with them. Not to mention disc brakes work in any weather. Yes they are dangerous, had countless accidents with them, never had accident with disc brakes and I've been riding bikes sincer early 90's.
Zagica I have ridden V Brakes in all types of weather and they work great. I have been in snowy conditions, rain and dry weather. There must of been something wrong with your previous setup. I have done downhills on City Bridges at maximum of 26.4 Miles per hour. I have gone up to 28 Miles per hour on a city streets. Disc brakes are about the same thing. V Brakes offer brake modulation more than Disc Brakes. Quality Rim Brakes perform nearly as good as Disc Brakes. At least I don’t have to bleed the brakes. If I wanted hydraulic V Brakes than I can do it by using Magura Hydraulic V Brakes. Or I could have Magura Disc Brakes in the front and Magura V Brakes in the back.
Laci O. You could upgrade your cantilever brakes to Magura V Hydraulic Brakes.
Boring to watch this in 2019... We use hydraulic disc brakes now, and have done in a long time now!!
Kent Nilsson not everyone is buying at that place in the market. Some super cheap bikes still come with v brakes and often aren’t assembled that well . If this helps just one person get on the trails then it’s worthwhile
No, we don't.
Some of us are buying vintage MTB's with cantilever brakes. Disc brakes back then weren't mainstream like now.
Who's "We"?
@Kent Nilsson hey I have a cookie for you buddy its awesome you have hydraulic disc brakes dude! Guess us mortals have to keep dealing with V Brakes. Some of us mortals have have more than one bike in our stable that we have to maintain. I have to maintain both systems. The more you know the more you grow.
Hello!! because they are cheap.
They're supposed to be. At that point you're better off getting disc brakes
Everyone is not rich baby 🍼