Well I kind of never started making them, just made few. I'm not a mechanic and don't do same repairs routinely every day. I'm owner operator. And only do occasional repairs to my truck which are new to me. So I often search TH-cam for clues how to do this or that. And often I find answers to my questions. That's why in return as a Thanks to TH-cam community I made those few videos. About something I knew how to do. So I don't only take but also give something. If we all help each other world will become a greater place for everyone. If I helped some one I'm glad that was my goal. Not making millions of subscribers. Maybe some times I'll make video about something else I know well how to do. If I have operator ( some of my kids by my side) If you do something and make a video at the same time it takes 2 times longer and than at home you need to spend time editing video so its not to long and not to boring. Which I'm also not a pro at. And it takes me long time. It's like another job. Any ways don't unsubscribe. My channel usually doesn't annoy You with extra notification about new video. So what's the point?
I see you turned the slack adjuster counterclockwise twice, once when removing the brake drum and again when installing new brake shoes. Is this correct, or did you turn the slack adjuster clockwise at some point?
@@thereviewer4173 it is just because it is easier to remove brake shoes than put them back on. First i rotated it far enough to be able to remove old ones. Than i just rotated them even more to have the thinest spot of s-cam in position where two rollers of brake shoes go on.
At 8:25 it’s clear that the s-cam bushings are worn out. Also those anchor pins are seized. They are suppose to rotate. They needed to be replaced and the parts were in the kit (with the bushings). That’s a 2018 Reefer? Looks more like it’s being maintained like a container chassis. Now you noticed the s-cam bushings were shot and you didn’t say anything. Is this really instructional? U
Well I'm not a pro in this stuff. I'm more of a driver and not a mechanic that much. Just trying to save some money doing stuff by my self. I learned how to change this brake shoes and honestly with good intentions just wanted to show other owner ops that its not that hard. I'm just showing basics how to take it apart, everyone decides for them self what else is time to change or not to change just yet. Tell me more what bushings i need to change and how to take them out
@@vityok3000 3 ways of getting anchor pin out. Air hammer may work. Second is a torch. Third is a snap on anchor pin press tool. Need to be careful if you heat and beat. You can bend the spider. Then you are taking it to a shop to have replaced.
When you released the brake drum at the beginning from the little nipple, are you not suppose to tight it back on place before putting the drum back. Don't take me wrong I want to learn boss..
No You not supposed to turn it back before installing the drum. Because if your brake shoes will sit too wide you wont be able to put the drum back in. Also if your ratchets are self adjusting and working properly, you don't need to touch that nut again. It will adjust after everything installed and you press brake pedal few times (with trailer brake released). Always check if your brake shoes adjusted them self. The adjustment purpose is to set the shoes as close to the drum as possible but without touching it while brakes are released. If you don't have self adjusting ratchet. Than after everything is put back together. And your trailer brakes released with truck running. You go to that nut and tighten it the way so brake shoes pressed against the drum. Than go back 3/4 of the turn. So your shoes will be close from the drum but released. You can keep the wheel elevated from the ground during that process. And try to spin it after brake adjustment. If brake shoes are still touching a bit you can release them a bit more. That's it adjustment done.
1/4 turn for Rockwell and Meritor auto adjusting slack and 1/2 a turn for Haldex and manual adjusting slacks. All slacks need to be adjusted after initially installing regardless of if they are auto adjusting or not. This is what I do for a living as a commercial transport mechanic
why you did not install new brake drums ? I need to change my brakes on my trailer but how do i know if brake drums are still in work condition. It has a little wear you can fill the edge but nothing crazy ? thank you!
Google 49 cfr 393.47. It will tell you all about different brake parts. About drums and rotors it says. The drum or rotor thickness shall not be less than the limit established by drum or rotor manufacturer. Personally me if i don't know my drums manufacturer or his limits. I would change my drums if they have cracks. Or if they have uneven wear inside with up and down lines that will cut in to my new pads. Usually drums get rusty, unevenly worn, or cracked before they get to thin. At least in my case with my style of driving. I brake very easy from far away most of my stoping power comes from engine break. Accept for emergency breacking when some one cuts you off or that stupid yelow light that is just half a second to early to pass the light. I was doing my anual inspections in this one shop and when my truck was like 4 or 5 year old the guy said your brake pads(pads not drums) look like new by how thick they are but some of them have cracks. So immagine how good my drums were if pads were like new. Peacefull, good planing driving will do it. Any ways You can change your drum at any time when you dont like them. They are not to expensive. And you see how easy to change.
JUST WANT TO SAY THANKS MAN FOR SHARING. KNOWLEDGE IS STRENTGH AND I AM IMPRESSED BY PEOPLE WHO SHARE TO HELP OTHERS. THANK YOU. EVER IN ARKANSAS I WILL BUY U A BEER.
No problem. I'm glad I can help. I didn't mention anything about brake adjustment because mine are self adjusting. No worries if yours are not. While brakes are released You just rotate adjusting screw until pads are pressed against the drum than rotate it back 3/4 of a full turn.
You're crazy for not checking wheel bearing end play while you had it all apart. Bearings out of adjustment are a common cause of premature tire wear. With the price of tires today, I take zero chances.
Trailer was 2 years old at the moment of that video. I use good practice, when i stop after few hours of driving, I walk around the truck kick tires and touch centers of the wheels with my hand to check temperature of the bearings. Also checking oil levels. Adiing oil if needed. Check it again at next stop. If level drops again I check for leaks. So I changed oil seals on both wheels on the other side already. Bearings wear 1000 times slower than oil seals. My first seal I changed at Loves truckstop some 30 miles north of Laredo TX. The mechanic guy didnt know what he was doing. After installing the seal he overtorked my bearings so bad that after driving some 100 miles it was so hot that oil window blew out from air expantion inside. I stopped at next Loves but they didnt have any mechanics that do anything other than tires. Stoped at second one they said mechanic will be here in the morning. Morning came he didnt show up, noon came no mechanic. So i ended up begging them to give me the large socket for the bearing nut, Ill do it my self and will have no problems with them. So they did. I released it and said never again I give my truck to any body. Next seal I changed by my self torked it and measured free play with micrometer. Few years later no problem. No leaks no overheating. It is good anough to tork bearings at every seal replasement. Than just check oil levels and temp on a daily basis. If properly lubricated at all times this bearings will live and stay in good shape untill your trailer will fell apart from rust. No need to check free play. Unless you dont drive it by your self and have stupid driver that drives untill wheels fell off.
I borrowed it from my friend who works in a shop of a trucking company. He said they bought it in Decarolis. If you don't have that store in your town check eBay item number 264735017675 Thats the cheapest one i found. I'm not telling you to buy this exact item but you can see the name of it there. Its your own responsibility to make sure its the right size and the seller have good feedback.
not a bad job for a driver, however get some mechanic help once in while and get a new s-cam, and cater pin replaced, since the brake might loose brake unevenly due to worn s=cam, moreover i am amazed to see you open you nuts with that small electric gun, if the electric gun can torque them back properly, it is fine, but if the electric gun is underpowered, the wheel might come off on the road, which is quite dangerous.
Thanks for your adwise brother. Will get those things changed for sure with my next brake set. About electric gun no worries. I been using it for few years now, and never had an issue. The gun is Dewalt DCF 897B. In max position it has unscrewing tork 1,200 ft/lbs and tightening 700 ft/lbs. Which is more than enough since ttuck nuts need to be torked 450. Sometimes only having hard time unscrewing them when they been overtorked in a shop by big azz air gun. Than it may take a minute or two but will eventually unscrew it. Thanks again, great day.
@@Diesel2530 Thanks but there is really no need for that. Once I was getting new tires in the shop with installation. And they had torque wrench for 450 ft/lbs which is the right specification for semi wheel nuts. I did experiment to check my gun. So i tightened few nuts with my gun and asked them to check with torque wrench. So they did and the nuts was not moving. The guys was impressed :). I'm also always using fully charged battery when torqueing the nuts. Also recently got 2 x 10 AH battery's. Those can probably do at least couple of tires on and off before they die.
@@vityok3000 Because this guy doesn’t know how to do brakes? The s cams are wore out as well. He should have changed those too! I put my dial indicator on them it will tell me they move too far. But I know nothing. Only been doing it for 10+ years.
@@richardrodgers895 Cool. Ive been driving trucks since 2005. I still drive this same trailer from the video 3 years later on same brakes and s cams. Everything works well no problem. This s cams are just thick plane piese of metal that doesnt move allot, and its gonna take atleast 10 more years for it to fail, so relax bro, this busines doesnt make anough money for unnecessary repairs. You know? When i was a company driver i drove trailers few times, that would lock the brakes on first light touch. And few times this trailers started drifting to the side on me. One time because of this i even broke mirror of a dump truck in the lane next to me while stopping for the traffic light. Thats after some kind of profesionals did the brakes. Tell me where to find real proffecionals and maybe sometimes i will have something done by them. Only if it's gonna be absolutely necessary though. Because I repeat this business is not self sustainable if you do everything in shops. Another situation; I changed leaky oil seal on Loves Truckstop shop near Laredo, TX. The guy overtorcked my wheelbearings so bad that my hub caps glass blew out after I drove some 60 miles. Air inside overheated and expanded to the point that hub caps oil window just blew up. I had sealed hub caps with tire inflation in them back than. Oil leaked out and the bearings was overheating badly. I had to drive slow and stop often to cool down. Also I was driving thru area where was no shops on my way on Saturday. And when i finnaly got to next loves they said our mechanic will come in the morning. And in the morning he didnt show up. So I ended up fixing the problem by my self just borrowed that large socket from them. Since than i changed 2 more seals by my self including the one that shop changed. Because it started leaking again soon. Now I do everything only by my self unless I brake on the road and need some part. I have 6 kids and I'm sorry but i dont have money for shops. I even changed my camshaft bushings and did valve anjustment. And thanks God everything works good. Because I believe what one man can do everyone can do. And you can't prove to me otherwise. Have a good day. And don't worry you not gonna lose all the job because of me. You can only lose it doing unnecessary repairs to people. Because your customers will not come back. Not because they suspected that you did something unnecessary but simply because they went out of business.
Always has to be a smart ass in every crowd...At least he did it himself and is trying to help others.....Most shops can't do shit anymore......@@richardrodgers895
I dont think it has a specific name. Just ask in stores like Fleet Pride, DeCarolis or other truck stores if they have "brake shoe spring removal tool". Or search it in online stores like eBay, Amazon...
You may need to. mine are self adjustable. Its easy to adjust if you need to. 1. Release brakes inside the truck. 2. Wrench that adjusting nut until brake shoes are pressed against the drum. 3. Turn the wrench 270 degree back so the shoes come just a little bit away from the drum again. That's it. That's how I did it on my old trailer. Maybe somebody did it different watch some videos if you like. To find out if your brakes are self adjusting: 1. After assembly brake shoes are so far from the drum you can probably fit your fingers between them. Don't put trailer in park after assembly and press brake pedal few times. 2. Keep trailer brakes released go back under trailer and see if your brake shoes came close to the drum. 3. If they are close your ratchets are self adjustable. 4. If brake shoes are still same far from the drum like when you assembled them, that means they are not self adjustable. Go ahead and adjust them manually. Like in the instructions above. Wrench them all the way up to the drum and a little bit back.
@@vityok3000 I may be mistaken, but I believe that even the self-adjusting slack adjusters need to be adjusted either when they're first installed new or when the nut is moved like when installing new brake shoes.
@@thereviewer4173 if your automatic slackvadjusters are properly lubricated and functioning as intended you dont need to adjust them.but when they become old worn and malfunctioning you do.
@@vityok3000 I looked into this a bit further and at least the manufacturer of Haldex is saying that the automatic slack adjuster must be manually adjusted when installing. There appears to be two ways to do this. One way is by turning clockwise until the brake shoes contact the drums and then turn a 1/2 turn back at least for the Haldex brand, and the other method is done with the brake pedal. For this one, with PSI over 100, one releases the brakes and depresses the brake pedal and holds it for like 3 seconds, and then repeats this same procedure 4-6 times. The automatic slack adjuster can adjust itself with this method. But I’m not sure if this method is valid for disc brakes.
@@merlonfox8769 if you are not sure of your slack adjusters type and condition. If they are self adjusting and still adjusting them selves correctly. Do this: After installation with parking brakes released. Truck engine working and good operating air pressure. Press your brake pedal few times slowly but hard anough. Than keep parking brake of the trailer (if you work on the trailer) released go check your brake pads. If they adjusted them selves they will be sitting really close to a drum but not holding it locked. It would be good to keep the wheel rised and try to spin it. If after this procedure you still see huge gap between brake pad and brake drum. That means ether your slack adjusters are not self adjusting from the factory or self adjusting function is not working anymore. Than adjust them manually. With parking brake still released rotate adjusting nut to bring brake pads all the way to the drum. Than go back like 45minutes or 3/4 of the turn or 270 degres which are all the same just what ever is easier for you to understand. If some brake manufacturers say to go back 180degree or half a turn. I noticed adjusting brakes this way may make them lock sooner than other wheels and slide your wheel locked while braking on the road. So I usually do release 3/4 of a turn. Also i noticed on some trailers there is only 2 abs sensors from the factory. For example on front axle only right wheel and on rear axle only left wheel has abs sensor(or may be otherwise). This way if you adjust half a turn one wheel without sensor it will get locked before all other wheels and just slide on the road damaging your wheels. On the other hand if it will be a wheel with the sensor your ABS module will register that first locking wheel and release your trailer brakes while your other wheels have not even started braking. Because their adjustment was done long time ago their pads got worn and become further from drum than the wheel you just adjusted. And you will have very weak brakes. So if you adjust your brakes adjust them all together. So all wheels would brake evenly. Its all simple logic. If you think about it you will understand it without any one explaining it to you.
Hey Brother, I just want to thank you, this video was incredibly informative. I was Quoted $1400 to change my brakes on my GD trailer. I am now going to save over $1000. doing it myself
This is Dewalt DCF 897B model with 3/4 drive. Unscrews easily any nuts if they are not overtorked. They should be torked to 450ft pounds. And this gun is rated to 1200ft pound unscrewing tork and 700 ft/lbs tightening. Sometimes if you change your tires in a shop where dumb mechanics work and they have huge air gun and they tork it as there is no tomorrow. Which rarely but happens, this gun still unscrews it but you might spend like up to 30 sec to get it moving. Once it brakes it goes fast, just like any air gun. But usually normal shops use tork measure wrench and tork it to specification. Than this gun brake it in 2 sec. I tork my wheels with it to the max and brake with the same gun no problems. Once in the tire shop i asked them to try tightening more with tork wrench after i tightened with the gun. And it was clicking not moving a bit. I always cary it with me. And change or fix tires for my self on a road. I would recommend carrying one used steer tire as your spare. Than its universal and you can mount it on any position. I also cary patches and tire mounting tools. Last time fixed trailer tire with bolt as huge as my pinky finger. Thanks to tire inflation system on my trailer im still using that tire with mushroom patch from inside. One time i had steer blew up in GA installed spare 1hr,20 min back on a road. Thats with triangles set up and collect after im done. No service calls no money spent. Poor owner op like me loves it. :)
@@vityok3000 Thanks this is great info. This month alone I needed to remove tires on 2 separate occasion and had to end up paying someone. you need to make a video about DIY tire changing, especially on the side of the road, you know, what tools to use, how to air the tire back up, things like that. I'm mad because I was going to buy this exact impact wrench last month from a guy that sell Dewalt tool near me, but he sold the 3/4 so I just bought the 1/2, now I wished I had waited.
@@eswifttt No problem brother, any time. Maybe you can return 1/2 or resell as barely used or like new condition. Friend of mine bought 1/2 dewalt gun like mine size and he claimed its the same strong. I'm not sure what the exact model of his gun was. But we were repairing our trucks together and his friend came over borrowed his gun. Than he came back and said he can't loosen some rusted bolt on a car he was fixing. I gave him my gun and it worked for him.
Eric, I was referred to Harbor Freight for an impact. I bought the Earthquake 3/4 drive/cordless for $279.99, I also bought an extra battery. This worked great for getting off the lug nuts on our dry van trailer.
@@mjconsultingtrainingdispat3118 Lucky You. I paid for bare tool 300$ That was few years ago tho. And back than was no Chinese copies of this technology. My Dewalt gun is made in USA. On the other hand I'm not sorry that i got it, because i have bad experience with chinese stuff.
Thank you very much sir, you made it look so easy
thank you my friend for helping us save some money 👍👍👍
2;49 cam seems to be a little dry of grease , binding up?
Your S cam bushing are shot !
thanks for the video. im trying to locate the brake pad size for my 2009 utility dx 4000. any insight would be appreciated. again thanks for the video
What i did, I took one wheels brake shoes off, and went with them to Fleet Pride.
Just take your old shoes to your local truck parts store.
And why did you stop making videos lol
Well I kind of never started making them, just made few. I'm not a mechanic and don't do same repairs routinely every day. I'm owner operator. And only do occasional repairs to my truck which are new to me. So I often search TH-cam for clues how to do this or that. And often I find answers to my questions. That's why in return as a Thanks to TH-cam community I made those few videos. About something I knew how to do. So I don't only take but also give something. If we all help each other world will become a greater place for everyone. If I helped some one I'm glad that was my goal. Not making millions of subscribers. Maybe some times I'll make video about something else I know well how to do. If I have operator ( some of my kids by my side) If you do something and make a video at the same time it takes 2 times longer and than at home you need to spend time editing video so its not to long and not to boring. Which I'm also not a pro at. And it takes me long time. It's like another job. Any ways don't unsubscribe. My channel usually doesn't annoy You with extra notification about new video. So what's the point?
@@vityok3000 ok cool bro....be safe on the road and I'm trying to prepare for my CDL's now
Amazing video. Thank You Sir for your perfect demonstration. I will take the courage and do it myself 😊
Thank you very much, this really helps me to change my brakes.
Very good explained.
Post more , good job and success to you.
Great video and thank you for your explanation of the process
U forget to readjust the brakes after putting the drum back
Hi! I love your spring remover, on my next work day I will craft one, thank-you.
Lisle 40030 spring brake tool $40.00 others $27.00 Amazon
I see you turned the slack adjuster counterclockwise twice, once when removing the brake drum and again when installing new brake shoes. Is this correct, or did you turn the slack adjuster clockwise at some point?
@@thereviewer4173 it is just because it is easier to remove brake shoes than put them back on. First i rotated it far enough to be able to remove old ones. Than i just rotated them even more to have the thinest spot of s-cam in position where two rollers of brake shoes go on.
At 8:25 it’s clear that the s-cam bushings are worn out. Also those anchor pins are seized. They are suppose to rotate. They needed to be replaced and the parts were in the kit (with the bushings). That’s a 2018 Reefer? Looks more like it’s being maintained like a container chassis. Now you noticed the s-cam bushings were shot and you didn’t say anything. Is this really instructional?
U
Well I'm not a pro in this stuff. I'm more of a driver and not a mechanic that much. Just trying to save some money doing stuff by my self. I learned how to change this brake shoes and honestly with good intentions just wanted to show other owner ops that its not that hard. I'm just showing basics how to take it apart, everyone decides for them self what else is time to change or not to change just yet. Tell me more what bushings i need to change and how to take them out
And finally We got a smart ass in here
Wow Christopher has a big mouth for criticism and a small mouth for a solution.
@@vityok3000 3 ways of getting anchor pin out. Air hammer may work. Second is a torch. Third is a snap on anchor pin press tool. Need to be careful if you heat and beat. You can bend the spider. Then you are taking it to a shop to have replaced.
@@dwightg9817 thank you very much. I bought super heavy duty pin press. Next time will change brakes will try it.
What’s the part number for brake kit?
When you released the brake drum at the beginning from the little nipple, are you not suppose to tight it back on place before putting the drum back. Don't take me wrong I want to learn boss..
No You not supposed to turn it back before installing the drum. Because if your brake shoes will sit too wide you wont be able to put the drum back in. Also if your ratchets are self adjusting and working properly, you don't need to touch that nut again. It will adjust after everything installed and you press brake pedal few times (with trailer brake released). Always check if your brake shoes adjusted them self. The adjustment purpose is to set the shoes as close to the drum as possible but without touching it while brakes are released. If you don't have self adjusting ratchet. Than after everything is put back together. And your trailer brakes released with truck running. You go to that nut and tighten it the way so brake shoes pressed against the drum. Than go back 3/4 of the turn. So your shoes will be close from the drum but released. You can keep the wheel elevated from the ground during that process. And try to spin it after brake adjustment. If brake shoes are still touching a bit you can release them a bit more. That's it adjustment done.
After reassembled,, tighten the brakes til drum doesn't turn anymore (shoes touching drum) and loosen 1/4 turn... you must do that...
My brakes are auto adjusting ones. So i don't need to do anything.
1/4 turn for Rockwell and Meritor auto adjusting slack and 1/2 a turn for Haldex and manual adjusting slacks. All slacks need to be adjusted after initially installing regardless of if they are auto adjusting or not. This is what I do for a living as a commercial transport mechanic
why you did not install new brake drums ? I need to change my brakes on my trailer but how do i know if brake drums are still in work condition. It has a little wear you can fill the edge but nothing crazy ?
thank you!
Google 49 cfr 393.47. It will tell you all about different brake parts. About drums and rotors it says. The drum or rotor thickness shall not be less than the limit established by drum or rotor manufacturer.
Personally me if i don't know my drums manufacturer or his limits. I would change my drums if they have cracks. Or if they have uneven wear inside with up and down lines that will cut in to my new pads. Usually drums get rusty, unevenly worn, or cracked before they get to thin. At least in my case with my style of driving. I brake very easy from far away most of my stoping power comes from engine break. Accept for emergency breacking when some one cuts you off or that stupid yelow light that is just half a second to early to pass the light. I was doing my anual inspections in this one shop and when my truck was like 4 or 5 year old the guy said your brake pads(pads not drums) look like new by how thick they are but some of them have cracks. So immagine how good my drums were if pads were like new. Peacefull, good planing driving will do it. Any ways You can change your drum at any time when you dont like them. They are not to expensive. And you see how easy to change.
@@vityok3000 okay thank you sir
Great video man
Thank you for this video! I m going to change my brakes this week
Very informative video brother 👍👍👍
thanks bro really helpfull.
Good job bro !!
That's a how to DIY video step by step 😎😎
JUST WANT TO SAY THANKS MAN FOR SHARING. KNOWLEDGE IS STRENTGH AND I AM IMPRESSED BY PEOPLE WHO SHARE TO HELP OTHERS. THANK YOU. EVER IN ARKANSAS I WILL BUY U A BEER.
No problem. I'm glad I can help. I didn't mention anything about brake adjustment because mine are self adjusting. No worries if yours are not. While brakes are released You just rotate adjusting screw until pads are pressed against the drum than rotate it back 3/4 of a full turn.
You're crazy for not checking wheel bearing end play while you had it all apart. Bearings out of adjustment are a common cause of premature tire wear. With the price of tires today, I take zero chances.
Trailer was 2 years old at the moment of that video. I use good practice, when i stop after few hours of driving, I walk around the truck kick tires and touch centers of the wheels with my hand to check temperature of the bearings. Also checking oil levels. Adiing oil if needed. Check it again at next stop. If level drops again I check for leaks. So I changed oil seals on both wheels on the other side already. Bearings wear 1000 times slower than oil seals. My first seal I changed at Loves truckstop some 30 miles north of Laredo TX. The mechanic guy didnt know what he was doing. After installing the seal he overtorked my bearings so bad that after driving some 100 miles it was so hot that oil window blew out from air expantion inside. I stopped at next Loves but they didnt have any mechanics that do anything other than tires. Stoped at second one they said mechanic will be here in the morning. Morning came he didnt show up, noon came no mechanic. So i ended up begging them to give me the large socket for the bearing nut, Ill do it my self and will have no problems with them. So they did. I released it and said never again I give my truck to any body. Next seal I changed by my self torked it and measured free play with micrometer. Few years later no problem. No leaks no overheating. It is good anough to tork bearings at every seal replasement. Than just check oil levels and temp on a daily basis. If properly lubricated at all times this bearings will live and stay in good shape untill your trailer will fell apart from rust. No need to check free play. Unless you dont drive it by your self and have stupid driver that drives untill wheels fell off.
Great job buddy.. 🚫🐂💩🫵🪨👍👍
great job .....thank you very much..... strait forward and informative
Where can you buy the spring tool you used? That looks more safe than using pliers or a screwdriver.
I borrowed it from my friend who works in a shop of a trucking company. He said they bought it in Decarolis. If you don't have that store in your town check eBay item number 264735017675 Thats the cheapest one i found. I'm not telling you to buy this exact item but you can see the name of it there. Its your own responsibility to make sure its the right size and the seller have good feedback.
@@vityok3000 I was able to find it on Amazon. This tool worked great! Thank you!
@@mjconsultingtrainingdispat3118 no problem, any time
What is that tool called?
@@jigsdagoat8963Lisle 40030 brake spring tool Amazon $40.00 some cheaper versions 27.00
Nice vedio man perfect explanation
Thank for the video my friend..
Best video I’ve ever seen…, goat of all videos
hard work i know , do it everyday good job man
Thank you have an Idea .....
Thanks.....
you welcome
thanks. it is really helpful
You're the man!
Good video brother
not a bad job for a driver, however get some mechanic help once in while and get a new s-cam, and cater pin replaced, since the brake might loose brake unevenly due to worn s=cam, moreover i am amazed to see you open you nuts with that small electric gun, if the electric gun can torque them back properly, it is fine, but if the electric gun is underpowered, the wheel might come off on the road, which is quite dangerous.
Thanks for your adwise brother. Will get those things changed for sure with my next brake set. About electric gun no worries. I been using it for few years now, and never had an issue. The gun is
Dewalt DCF 897B. In max position it has unscrewing tork 1,200 ft/lbs and tightening 700 ft/lbs. Which is more than enough since ttuck nuts need to be torked 450. Sometimes only having hard time unscrewing them when they been overtorked in a shop by big azz air gun. Than it may take a minute or two but will eventually unscrew it. Thanks again, great day.
@@vityok3000 what I do, I use some cross check after torquing wheels, and some wheel indicators. that never fails and gives you that piece of mind
Or roll into a truck stop and get the axle torqued. I think at TA it's $15 before tax or something like that, been a while since I've seen the price
@@Diesel2530 Thanks but there is really no need for that. Once I was getting new tires in the shop with installation. And they had torque wrench for 450 ft/lbs which is the right specification for semi wheel nuts. I did experiment to check my gun. So i tightened few nuts with my gun and asked them to check with torque wrench. So they did and the nuts was not moving. The guys was impressed :). I'm also always using fully charged battery when torqueing the nuts. Also recently got 2 x 10 AH battery's. Those can probably do at least couple of tires on and off before they die.
My fucking head hurts after watching this. I do this everyday for a career and you sir need to leave it to the professionals😂
I feel sorry for you. Get some advil.
@@vityok3000 Because this guy doesn’t know how to do brakes? The s cams are wore out as well. He should have changed those too! I put my dial indicator on them it will tell me they move too far. But I know nothing. Only been doing it for 10+ years.
@@richardrodgers895 Cool. Ive been driving trucks since 2005. I still drive this same trailer from the video 3 years later on same brakes and s cams. Everything works well no problem. This s cams are just thick plane piese of metal that doesnt move allot, and its gonna take atleast 10 more years for it to fail, so relax bro, this busines doesnt make anough money for unnecessary repairs. You know? When i was a company driver i drove trailers few times, that would lock the brakes on first light touch. And few times this trailers started drifting to the side on me. One time because of this i even broke mirror of a dump truck in the lane next to me while stopping for the traffic light. Thats after some kind of profesionals did the brakes. Tell me where to find real proffecionals and maybe sometimes i will have something done by them. Only if it's gonna be absolutely necessary though. Because I repeat this business is not self sustainable if you do everything in shops.
Another situation; I changed leaky oil seal on Loves Truckstop shop near Laredo, TX. The guy overtorcked my wheelbearings so bad that my hub caps glass blew out after I drove some 60 miles. Air inside overheated and expanded to the point that hub caps oil window just blew up. I had sealed hub caps with tire inflation in them back than. Oil leaked out and the bearings was overheating badly. I had to drive slow and stop often to cool down. Also I was driving thru area where was no shops on my way on Saturday. And when i finnaly got to next loves they said our mechanic will come in the morning. And in the morning he didnt show up. So I ended up fixing the problem by my self just borrowed that large socket from them. Since than i changed 2 more seals by my self including the one that shop changed. Because it started leaking again soon. Now I do everything only by my self unless I brake on the road and need some part. I have 6 kids and I'm sorry but i dont have money for shops. I even changed my camshaft bushings and did valve anjustment. And thanks God everything works good. Because I believe what one man can do everyone can do. And you can't prove to me otherwise. Have a good day. And don't worry you not gonna lose all the job because of me. You can only lose it doing unnecessary repairs to people. Because your customers will not come back. Not because they suspected that you did something unnecessary but simply because they went out of business.
Always has to be a smart ass in every crowd...At least he did it himself and is trying to help others.....Most shops can't do shit anymore......@@richardrodgers895
Where you buy the tool for the springs
The one on a video i borrowed from a friend. He said they bought it in Decarolis. Than later I bought one for my self on eBay.
What is the name of the tool that you use to remove the springs?
I dont think it has a specific name. Just ask in stores like Fleet Pride, DeCarolis or other truck stores if they have "brake shoe spring removal tool". Or search it in online stores like eBay, Amazon...
S-Cam Air Brake Spring Tool, search for "OTC 5081"
So wait after you put back on the drum is there no readjusting? Does it adjust it back or?
You may need to. mine are self adjustable. Its easy to adjust if you need to. 1. Release brakes inside the truck. 2. Wrench that adjusting nut until brake shoes are pressed against the drum. 3. Turn the wrench 270 degree back so the shoes come just a little bit away from the drum again. That's it. That's how I did it on my old trailer. Maybe somebody did it different watch some videos if you like. To find out if your brakes are self adjusting: 1. After assembly brake shoes are so far from the drum you can probably fit your fingers between them. Don't put trailer in park after assembly and press brake pedal few times. 2. Keep trailer brakes released go back under trailer and see if your brake shoes came close to the drum. 3. If they are close your ratchets are self adjustable. 4. If brake shoes are still same far from the drum like when you assembled them, that means they are not self adjustable. Go ahead and adjust them manually. Like in the instructions above. Wrench them all the way up to the drum and a little bit back.
@@vityok3000 I may be mistaken, but I believe that even the self-adjusting slack adjusters need to be adjusted either when they're first installed new or when the nut is moved like when installing new brake shoes.
@@thereviewer4173 if your automatic slackvadjusters are properly lubricated and functioning as intended you dont need to adjust them.but when they become old worn and malfunctioning you do.
@@vityok3000
I looked into this a bit further and at least the manufacturer of Haldex is saying that the automatic slack adjuster must be manually adjusted when installing. There appears to be two ways to do this. One way is by turning clockwise until the brake shoes contact the drums and then turn a 1/2 turn back at least for the Haldex brand, and the other method is done with the brake pedal. For this one, with PSI over 100, one releases the brakes and depresses the brake pedal and holds it for like 3 seconds, and then repeats this same procedure 4-6 times. The automatic slack adjuster can adjust itself with this method. But I’m not sure if this method is valid for disc brakes.
@@merlonfox8769 if you are not sure of your slack adjusters type and condition. If they are self adjusting and still adjusting them selves correctly. Do this: After installation with parking brakes released. Truck engine working and good operating air pressure. Press your brake pedal few times slowly but hard anough. Than keep parking brake of the trailer (if you work on the trailer) released go check your brake pads. If they adjusted them selves they will be sitting really close to a drum but not holding it locked. It would be good to keep the wheel rised and try to spin it. If after this procedure you still see huge gap between brake pad and brake drum. That means ether your slack adjusters are not self adjusting from the factory or self adjusting function is not working anymore. Than adjust them manually. With parking brake still released rotate adjusting nut to bring brake pads all the way to the drum. Than go back like 45minutes or 3/4 of the turn or 270 degres which are all the same just what ever is easier for you to understand. If some brake manufacturers say to go back 180degree or half a turn. I noticed adjusting brakes this way may make them lock sooner than other wheels and slide your wheel locked while braking on the road. So I usually do release 3/4 of a turn. Also i noticed on some trailers there is only 2 abs sensors from the factory. For example on front axle only right wheel and on rear axle only left wheel has abs sensor(or may be otherwise). This way if you adjust half a turn one wheel without sensor it will get locked before all other wheels and just slide on the road damaging your wheels. On the other hand if it will be a wheel with the sensor your ABS module will register that first locking wheel and release your trailer brakes while your other wheels have not even started braking. Because their adjustment was done long time ago their pads got worn and become further from drum than the wheel you just adjusted. And you will have very weak brakes. So if you adjust your brakes adjust them all together. So all wheels would brake evenly. Its all simple logic. If you think about it you will understand it without any one explaining it to you.
Hey Brother, I just want to thank you, this video was incredibly informative. I was Quoted $1400 to change my brakes on my GD trailer. I am now going to save over $1000. doing it myself
I'm glad it was helpful. If every owner operator posts at least one video about some problem and repair. It would be nice.
What size Dewalt impact is that and is it strong enough to remove semi lugs by itself?
This is Dewalt DCF 897B model with 3/4 drive. Unscrews easily any nuts if they are not overtorked. They should be torked to 450ft pounds. And this gun is rated to 1200ft pound unscrewing tork and 700 ft/lbs tightening. Sometimes if you change your tires in a shop where dumb mechanics work and they have huge air gun and they tork it as there is no tomorrow. Which rarely but happens, this gun still unscrews it but you might spend like up to 30 sec to get it moving. Once it brakes it goes fast, just like any air gun. But usually normal shops use tork measure wrench and tork it to specification. Than this gun brake it in 2 sec.
I tork my wheels with it to the max and brake with the same gun no problems. Once in the tire shop i asked them to try tightening more with tork wrench after i tightened with the gun. And it was clicking not moving a bit. I always cary it with me. And change or fix tires for my self on a road. I would recommend carrying one used steer tire as your spare. Than its universal and you can mount it on any position. I also cary patches and tire mounting tools. Last time fixed trailer tire with bolt as huge as my pinky finger. Thanks to tire inflation system on my trailer im still using that tire with mushroom patch from inside. One time i had steer blew up in GA installed spare 1hr,20 min back on a road. Thats with triangles set up and collect after im done. No service calls no money spent. Poor owner op like me loves it. :)
@@vityok3000 Thanks this is great info. This month alone I needed to remove tires on 2 separate occasion and had to end up paying someone. you need to make a video about DIY tire changing, especially on the side of the road, you know, what tools to use, how to air the tire back up, things like that. I'm mad because I was going to buy this exact impact wrench last month from a guy that sell Dewalt tool near me, but he sold the 3/4 so I just bought the 1/2, now I wished I had waited.
@@eswifttt No problem brother, any time. Maybe you can return 1/2 or resell as barely used or like new condition.
Friend of mine bought 1/2 dewalt gun like mine size and he claimed its the same strong. I'm not sure what the exact model of his gun was. But we were repairing our trucks together and his friend came over borrowed his gun. Than he came back and said he can't loosen some rusted bolt on a car he was fixing. I gave him my gun and it worked for him.
Eric, I was referred to Harbor Freight for an impact. I bought the Earthquake 3/4 drive/cordless for $279.99, I also bought an extra battery. This worked great for getting off the lug nuts on our dry van trailer.
@@mjconsultingtrainingdispat3118 Lucky You. I paid for bare tool 300$ That was few years ago tho. And back than was no Chinese copies of this technology. My Dewalt gun is made in USA. On the other hand I'm not sorry that i got it, because i have bad experience with chinese stuff.