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@@thereviewer4173 it is just because it is easier to remove brake shoes than put them back on. First i rotated it far enough to be able to remove old ones. Than i just rotated them even more to have the thinest spot of s-cam in position where two rollers of brake shoes go on.

you are welcome

Pull the door down more and it will eject

No You not supposed to turn it back before installing the drum. Because if your brake shoes will sit too wide you wont be able to put the drum back in. Also if your ratchets are self adjusting and working properly, you don't need to touch that nut again. It will adjust after everything installed and you press brake pedal few times (with trailer brake released). Always check if your brake shoes adjusted them self. The adjustment purpose is to set the shoes as close to the drum as possible but without touching it while brakes are released. If you don't have self adjusting ratchet. Than after everything is put back together. And your trailer brakes released with truck running. You go to that nut and tighten it the way so brake shoes pressed against the drum. Than go back 3/4 of the turn. So your shoes will be close from the drum but released. You can keep the wheel elevated from the ground during that process. And try to spin it after brake adjustment. If brake shoes are still touching a bit you can release them a bit more. That's it adjustment done.

Google 49 cfr 393.47. It will tell you all about different brake parts. About drums and rotors it says. The drum or rotor thickness shall not be less than the limit established by drum or rotor manufacturer. Personally me if i don't know my drums manufacturer or his limits. I would change my drums if they have cracks. Or if they have uneven wear inside with up and down lines that will cut in to my new pads. Usually drums get rusty, unevenly worn, or cracked before they get to thin. At least in my case with my style of driving. I brake very easy from far away most of my stoping power comes from engine break. Accept for emergency breacking when some one cuts you off or that stupid yelow light that is just half a second to early to pass the light. I was doing my anual inspections in this one shop and when my truck was like 4 or 5 year old the guy said your brake pads(pads not drums) look like new by how thick they are but some of them have cracks. So immagine how good my drums were if pads were like new. Peacefull, good planing driving will do it. Any ways You can change your drum at any time when you dont like them. They are not to expensive. And you see how easy to change.

@@vityok3000 okay thank you sir

I feel sorry for you. Get some advil.

@@vityok3000 Because this guy doesn’t know how to do brakes? The s cams are wore out as well. He should have changed those too! I put my dial indicator on them it will tell me they move too far. But I know nothing. Only been doing it for 10+ years.

@@richardrodgers895 Cool. Ive been driving trucks since 2005. I still drive this same trailer from the video 3 years later on same brakes and s cams. Everything works well no problem. This s cams are just thick plane piese of metal that doesnt move allot, and its gonna take atleast 10 more years for it to fail, so relax bro, this busines doesnt make anough money for unnecessary repairs. You know? When i was a company driver i drove trailers few times, that would lock the brakes on first light touch. And few times this trailers started drifting to the side on me. One time because of this i even broke mirror of a dump truck in the lane next to me while stopping for the traffic light. Thats after some kind of profesionals did the brakes. Tell me where to find real proffecionals and maybe sometimes i will have something done by them. Only if it's gonna be absolutely necessary though. Because I repeat this business is not self sustainable if you do everything in shops. Another situation; I changed leaky oil seal on Loves Truckstop shop near Laredo, TX. The guy overtorcked my wheelbearings so bad that my hub caps glass blew out after I drove some 60 miles. Air inside overheated and expanded to the point that hub caps oil window just blew up. I had sealed hub caps with tire inflation in them back than. Oil leaked out and the bearings was overheating badly. I had to drive slow and stop often to cool down. Also I was driving thru area where was no shops on my way on Saturday. And when i finnaly got to next loves they said our mechanic will come in the morning. And in the morning he didnt show up. So I ended up fixing the problem by my self just borrowed that large socket from them. Since than i changed 2 more seals by my self including the one that shop changed. Because it started leaking again soon. Now I do everything only by my self unless I brake on the road and need some part. I have 6 kids and I'm sorry but i dont have money for shops. I even changed my camshaft bushings and did valve anjustment. And thanks God everything works good. Because I believe what one man can do everyone can do. And you can't prove to me otherwise. Have a good day. And don't worry you not gonna lose all the job because of me. You can only lose it doing unnecessary repairs to people. Because your customers will not come back. Not because they suspected that you did something unnecessary but simply because they went out of business.

Always has to be a smart ass in every crowd...At least he did it himself and is trying to help others.....Most shops can't do shit anymore......​@@richardrodgers895

I always find solutions how to fix stuff in TH-cam or on google. And my videos are my thanks to other people. If it helped some one I'm happy means it was a right thing to record this issue. I had this blinds for over a year and learned a trick or two so I share. Have a Blessed day.

I'm glad I could help. God bless You

Trailer was 2 years old at the moment of that video. I use good practice, when i stop after few hours of driving, I walk around the truck kick tires and touch centers of the wheels with my hand to check temperature of the bearings. Also checking oil levels. Adiing oil if needed. Check it again at next stop. If level drops again I check for leaks. So I changed oil seals on both wheels on the other side already. Bearings wear 1000 times slower than oil seals. My first seal I changed at Loves truckstop some 30 miles north of Laredo TX. The mechanic guy didnt know what he was doing. After installing the seal he overtorked my bearings so bad that after driving some 100 miles it was so hot that oil window blew out from air expantion inside. I stopped at next Loves but they didnt have any mechanics that do anything other than tires. Stoped at second one they said mechanic will be here in the morning. Morning came he didnt show up, noon came no mechanic. So i ended up begging them to give me the large socket for the bearing nut, Ill do it my self and will have no problems with them. So they did. I released it and said never again I give my truck to any body. Next seal I changed by my self torked it and measured free play with micrometer. Few years later no problem. No leaks no overheating. It is good anough to tork bearings at every seal replasement. Than just check oil levels and temp on a daily basis. If properly lubricated at all times this bearings will live and stay in good shape untill your trailer will fell apart from rust. No need to check free play. Unless you dont drive it by your self and have stupid driver that drives untill wheels fell off.

Well I kind of never started making them, just made few. I'm not a mechanic and don't do same repairs routinely every day. I'm owner operator. And only do occasional repairs to my truck which are new to me. So I often search TH-cam for clues how to do this or that. And often I find answers to my questions. That's why in return as a Thanks to TH-cam community I made those few videos. About something I knew how to do. So I don't only take but also give something. If we all help each other world will become a greater place for everyone. If I helped some one I'm glad that was my goal. Not making millions of subscribers. Maybe some times I'll make video about something else I know well how to do. If I have operator ( some of my kids by my side) If you do something and make a video at the same time it takes 2 times longer and than at home you need to spend time editing video so its not to long and not to boring. Which I'm also not a pro at. And it takes me long time. It's like another job. Any ways don't unsubscribe. My channel usually doesn't annoy You with extra notification about new video. So what's the point?

@@vityok3000 ok cool bro....be safe on the road and I'm trying to prepare for my CDL's now

I'm glad it was helpful. If every owner operator posts at least one video about some problem and repair. It would be nice.

I dont think it has a specific name. Just ask in stores like Fleet Pride, DeCarolis or other truck stores if they have "brake shoe spring removal tool". Or search it in online stores like eBay, Amazon...

S-Cam Air Brake Spring Tool, search for "OTC 5081"

you welcome

thank you greetings to you too from USA

You may need to. mine are self adjustable. Its easy to adjust if you need to. 1. Release brakes inside the truck. 2. Wrench that adjusting nut until brake shoes are pressed against the drum. 3. Turn the wrench 270 degree back so the shoes come just a little bit away from the drum again. That's it. That's how I did it on my old trailer. Maybe somebody did it different watch some videos if you like. To find out if your brakes are self adjusting: 1. After assembly brake shoes are so far from the drum you can probably fit your fingers between them. Don't put trailer in park after assembly and press brake pedal few times. 2. Keep trailer brakes released go back under trailer and see if your brake shoes came close to the drum. 3. If they are close your ratchets are self adjustable. 4. If brake shoes are still same far from the drum like when you assembled them, that means they are not self adjustable. Go ahead and adjust them manually. Like in the instructions above. Wrench them all the way up to the drum and a little bit back.

@@vityok3000 I may be mistaken, but I believe that even the self-adjusting slack adjusters need to be adjusted either when they're first installed new or when the nut is moved like when installing new brake shoes.

@@thereviewer4173 if your automatic slackvadjusters are properly lubricated and functioning as intended you dont need to adjust them.but when they become old worn and malfunctioning you do.

@@vityok3000 I looked into this a bit further and at least the manufacturer of Haldex is saying that the automatic slack adjuster must be manually adjusted when installing. There appears to be two ways to do this. One way is by turning clockwise until the brake shoes contact the drums and then turn a 1/2 turn back at least for the Haldex brand, and the other method is done with the brake pedal. For this one, with PSI over 100, one releases the brakes and depresses the brake pedal and holds it for like 3 seconds, and then repeats this same procedure 4-6 times. The automatic slack adjuster can adjust itself with this method. But I’m not sure if this method is valid for disc brakes.

@@merlonfox8769 if you are not sure of your slack adjusters type and condition. If they are self adjusting and still adjusting them selves correctly. Do this: After installation with parking brakes released. Truck engine working and good operating air pressure. Press your brake pedal few times slowly but hard anough. Than keep parking brake of the trailer (if you work on the trailer) released go check your brake pads. If they adjusted them selves they will be sitting really close to a drum but not holding it locked. It would be good to keep the wheel rised and try to spin it. If after this procedure you still see huge gap between brake pad and brake drum. That means ether your slack adjusters are not self adjusting from the factory or self adjusting function is not working anymore. Than adjust them manually. With parking brake still released rotate adjusting nut to bring brake pads all the way to the drum. Than go back like 45minutes or 3/4 of the turn or 270 degres which are all the same just what ever is easier for you to understand. If some brake manufacturers say to go back 180degree or half a turn. I noticed adjusting brakes this way may make them lock sooner than other wheels and slide your wheel locked while braking on the road. So I usually do release 3/4 of a turn. Also i noticed on some trailers there is only 2 abs sensors from the factory. For example on front axle only right wheel and on rear axle only left wheel has abs sensor(or may be otherwise). This way if you adjust half a turn one wheel without sensor it will get locked before all other wheels and just slide on the road damaging your wheels. On the other hand if it will be a wheel with the sensor your ABS module will register that first locking wheel and release your trailer brakes while your other wheels have not even started braking. Because their adjustment was done long time ago their pads got worn and become further from drum than the wheel you just adjusted. And you will have very weak brakes. So if you adjust your brakes adjust them all together. So all wheels would brake evenly. Its all simple logic. If you think about it you will understand it without any one explaining it to you.

Lisle 40030 spring brake tool $40.00 others $27.00 Amazon

The one on a video i borrowed from a friend. He said they bought it in Decarolis. Than later I bought one for my self on eBay.

My brakes are auto adjusting ones. So i don't need to do anything.

1/4 turn for Rockwell and Meritor auto adjusting slack and 1/2 a turn for Haldex and manual adjusting slacks. All slacks need to be adjusted after initially installing regardless of if they are auto adjusting or not. This is what I do for a living as a commercial transport mechanic

What i did, I took one wheels brake shoes off, and went with them to Fleet Pride. Just take your old shoes to your local truck parts store.