What issues have all of you seen and how could they have been avoided? Avoiding mistakes begins with having good work ethic, but starting with quality products and components helps. Check out our store where we've hand-curated kits and parts that will help your electrical system installation go smoothly: shop.explorist.life Here is a link to @Will Prowse's video. Go check it out and see what we said that was similar and different. Lots of good considerations between my video and his: th-cam.com/video/-3dNJAe8XEc/w-d-xo.html
I'm watching your videos - but I'm a sailor. For me nearly same business. What I experienced over time was: Just connecting new loads "somewhere" in the system - most without a fuse. What adds up in maritime environment: You should use marine grade cable (ok - more expensive) were each copper is coated with kind of tin. USCG regulations require that - for a good reason.
Yep, if you don't follow these "basics", you can't follow the more complex requirements. Trouble is, you have to pretty much know it ALL, which is where pros always have it over the DIYer. In Ex We Trust
Hey Nate! Been watchig for a bit now. Just wanted to say thank you for your knowledge on solar which has helped me install a system in my 4Runner. Your channels or classes as I like to call them helped me understand the system from wiring, batteries controllers and so on. Wanted a system mainly to keep the fridge going but now it powers so much much including induction burners and coffee maker! Although my system is complete (for now) I still love watching this channel. Keep it up!
Speaking from experience here as a customer. Electrical systems are not something you want to skimp on. We've been very happy with components, diagrams, and kits from Nate. He's done a huge amount of the leg work for you and I priced out buying the components for his kits, and his prices are comparable and fair and we ended up just buying his kits. Totally worth it, and ended up with a system that works great. This dude is a gem.
No, it is not a "shameless plug", Nate! LOL. You are saving so many people from making crazy mistakes. Your web store is so thorough along with your free calculators, pre-made kits and knowledge articles. If we are too lazy to use these tools/knowledge to make our lives better, then we deserve the consequence.
One thing I would add as a beginner miskate, is wearing rings, watches or jewery when working on DC systems. It only takes a small mistake to put your hand across a Positive and Negative and you will get a serious burn and a hospital visit. Take of all metal when working. Cheers
I bought a kit from Nate, and I cannot recommend it enough. It's been powering my van that I live in full time for almost a year. Absolutely fantastic.
Nate's work and attention to detail is excellent. I'm an experienced electrical designer / builder and I purchased a couple of his plans to support all of his hard work. They are excellent and great reference material. And I agree, so many problems could be avoided if people would read the OEM manuals. Victrons are excellent.
Hi Nate! I just wanted to pass on a big and long overdue thanks for all that you’ve helped me with on my RV’s electrical system. Following the techniques from your videos and schematics from your website, I totally rebuilt my RV’s off-grid system last winter ... with outstanding results. It performed flawlessly this past camping season ... all thanks to you. The content above represents one of the best “Top 10 Mistakes” videos that I’ve seen on this subject. A few of the 10 are subtle, but no less important than say choosing the correct wire and lug size and type. Lug size bit me when I tried to connect a 4/0 lug to the Victron Lynx Distributor and found that the HD lug version I had chosen would not fit. @WillProuse is an excellent source of info. I’ve been following Will since he first appeared on TH-cam and have learned so much from his content. Another good TH-cam choice for off-grid solar tips and tricks is Andy from @OffGridGarageAustralia, especially if you are into Victron gear. His content is geared toward the home solar system, but much of his work covers the off-grid RVer as well. He’s pretty entertaining to boot.
I’m really glad that I obsessively scour TH-cam before during and after a project. If I hadn’t then I wouldn’t have come across your video and your diagrams. I bought the diagram pdf just to show my support, but the page with the link to the correct products was the #1 best piece of assistance to me. I’m happy to say that I don’t think I’ve made any of the mistakes listed because I’ve been following your videos. Thank you!
Hi Nate, just wanted to say thank you for all of the videos you and Steph have created the last couple of years. I built out my van after I retired and I'm currently in Quartzsite enjoin the sunset. Thanks!
Great video.... Take your time in designing, planning and installation! I started back during the summer, and recently built everything up on a workbench to get a visible representation, and to get the latest Victron firmware updates installed. I'll be preforming the install/upgrade while our RV is in storage during the upcoming winter months. Several comments to add; mentioning of proper grounding of "ALL" DC components, mistake of thinking DC electrical systems work the same as AC electrical systems, using residential (Romex) wire in your builds, improper size of fuse to protect the battery bank and amperage rating of the battery shut-off (should be based on inverter, not on battery AH). I purchased the majority of my Victron equipment from a company in Arizona during their Labor Day sale (10% off), and my Battle Born batteries during their Recent Cyber Monday deals. Based on my design, both companies went far and above in asking questions before actually selling me the equipment, so I purchased components that will work together. Also, the Arizona company suggested that I create a Victron VRM portal to go with the Cerbo GX in order to fine tune the various settings of each component to get the best results possible
Completely agree. Bought and followed to diagram to a T. Now we do have experience in electric and construction but solar was a new aspect. Now, doing the work ourselves may have taken longer but the knowledge gained was invaluable. When boondocking, if issues arise, we have a understanding of how to fix. Thank you Nate
Just wanted to send my thanks for all the invaluable information your videos and website provided in my planning of my solar system for our 5th wheel. You're absolutely right about using quality components/equipment right from the start; well worth the "extra" money up front rather than dealing with potential issues with cheaper stuff. Your online schematics were very useful indeed! No need to 're-invent the wheel' :)
I've been interested in solar systems since the early 80s, and have watched the advancements in tech over the years. I've recently set up a system in my 'ute' (I'm Aussie) that I wired up myself. With a little experience, and using YT as a resource, I've set up roughly 500 watts of solar, 230 amps of AGM (to be upgraded soon), two charge controllers, a DC-DC charger, and a 3000 watt inverter. I was meticulous in wiring the system up correctly and double-checked everything. Thank you for this video. I just watched it and mentally checklisted my work against your advice. Happy to say, I think I did good. Disclaimer: I'm a jack of trades, master of none. The ute the solar system is in has also had the engine mostly rebuilt and upgraded in some parts by me, and I'm building the back for my tools, rooftop tent, 100 litres of spare water, plus a bunch of other stuff (hot water etc)
Oh Thank you so much, I have just had a pheonix 12/3000 installed and upgraded to 3x 100Ah Lithium batteries, so I am quickly acquiring another battery before my camper gets used. There are not many electrical installers to help with Victron Products in my city in New Zealand. I have watched heaps of your channel and direct my auto electrician to your channel to explain what I am wanting him to do.
@text426 Hi Nate I tried to send a message from my New Zealand prepaid phone but guessed you didn't get it. My phone probably only texts to New Zealand numbers sorry.
Lots of good information. I think with fuses there are also issues with post sizes. Some of these higher Amperage fuses have very small lug sizes. This is specifically related to the square marine fuses.
I am thinking about doing some sort of battery system to hopefully run a12v ac/heat unit in my van. I will definitely be visiting your website and likely be buying your products, thanks for the informational video!
Just re-watching your videos you, will and hobo are my three go to channels to watch thank you for your hard work I much appreciate it you help me build my Overland truck
A very good video, people don't realize that even at low voltage 12, 24, Batteries have a LOT of current and that current can start a fire so fast or smoke up and melt the insulation and that burning insulation could be harmfull to breathe.
Good video. I have a hydraulic crimper because I read from a guy that does sound systems. He said all of his connections are hydraulic. It is a little speedy but worth having peace of mind that it is tight. You can’t go wrong with buying the better tools.
@@dagwood1327 hello and thank you for the super quick reply! i’m an exterior painter who is building a power van to do my work in the field. I’m using Victron equipment. dc/dc charger, 100/50 MPPT Solar charge controller. All of the crimpers I am finding can only handle five gauge not four. What brand are you using?
Interesting comment you made regarding documentation and then the 12V multiplus II 3000 .... First I do have two 100 Ah Battle Born batteries in parallel in my 16' motorhome and very very happy with the performance .. also using Victron. I wanted to take advantage of the BB sales at Thanksgiving week (22) and called in advance regarding what I am building for a small radio shack. I have yet to complete the install of the Inverter mentioned. The inverter I think runs at 2400 Watts... and I looked up the specs and said it says minimum of 400 to max of 1200 AMP batteries (as you stated). I was interested in 1 x 270Ah battery possibly more Ah but BB sales (won't mention his name) said because the inverter 2400 Watt (?) non VA, all I would need is the 270 Ah. Even when I mentioned the Victron minimum 400Ah data he said that is just a suggestion on their part and not "required". I had other difficulties communicating with them and decided not to go with their great batteries. Price became and issue and issues with pre-fab wires I was going to buy. (I need to look at your store) ... Well I lost some confidence in their "support" and decided not to buy. I am working on installing the plus II into it's location and much more to do before getting batteries... So, I ordered an EG4 12V basic rack battery which has yet shipped. It is 400Ah and I feel I did right by this decision. They told me that I can add more units into the future with nothing like having to do it within 3 months or so. It will not communicate with the Cerbo GX but their 24 and 48 do ... but I plan on using a Victron shunt... and I think the multiplus ii has some monitoring but I don't know how to wire it to pick up all my use such that the Victron shunt does. .. yet.. We always need to be careful for just going by people who want to make a sale ... doing the right thing ... ? you never have to worry about money etc... basically.
I also purchased the EG4 rack batteries but also got the 48v EG4 all-in-one 6500 EX inverter/charger vs the Victron multiplus. Comes with its own monitoring software. i’m still going to buy the shunt for the batteries from Victron, but really that’s all I need. those two together the inverter and the battery rack is just so plug and play. dc-to-dc charging will be victron from my alternator. Nate’s diagram that I purchased still helped me a great deal.
@@mikefranks4528 Thanks. I am looking forward to receiving the EG$ 12V .... It looks like your system is quite a sizable one compared to my needs. Does the 6500 EX also pull and blend from various sources to invert at the same time as the Multi Plus II does? I have gotten mine connected up but do have it mounted on what I call the "Power wall". With the Cerbo GX an individual units I find I can or will be able to upgrade and even repurpose the different modules. I.E. the solar controller.
😂 awe crap… I made it in your video when you stared talking about poor workmanship. Was is the same size wires, the one random fuse or the cardboard box I stored my batteries in that gave me away? Haha thankfully I’ve watched enough of your videos and lectures by now I think my workmanship is now waayyy better!😅
Hey Nate thank you for all the work and time you put into your DIY videos. You helped me put together a solar system for my truck camper. Question regarding DC to Dc changing, can I utilize my inbed truck inverter to shorepower plug on camper while I'm driving?
The victron component with the minimum battery size required-- is that due to supporting the max rate of charge / discharge and the average C rate for lithium batteries?
Another great video. Thanks Nate. Happy to say my system is working rock solid at 100% . But then again I followed your instruction videos. Thanks Bro .....
Question: If one can not purchase all of their componants at the same time - in which order would you recommend? The thinking is that one may not be able to put together the perect plan before hand and do purchases as used componants become available. My guess is - Solar panels > Batteries > Charge Controller > Cables > Inverters Thank You
LMAO - I know this is 6 months old and I'm in the planning stage of my solar/electrical but at the end of #4 "Then you won't be in my tech support email anymore".. I had to laugh because I work IT, for 30+ years and I can relate SOOOO much. Just wanted to thank you for the laugh and I'm still powering thru (no pun intended) all of your videos so when I get done it'll be because of you and your training. Not to put any pressure on you. ;)
#10 is the challenge I enjoy! Buying for me is always price based so often have no choice but to make it work! #9 if your making that mistake maybe you shouldn’t be playing with charged particles!
I'm at the beginning of my build and only have my batteries wired so far. I was adding a negative wire to one end and it sparked a couple times! Is my battery fried? What did I do wrong? Could it just have been the other end of the wire touched the positive side and everything is still ok?? Nervous to keep going. 😅
It seems like an infrared thermometer would be a valuable troubleshooting and maintenance tool in case I screw up on wire gauge or poor crimps. I couldn’t find one in your store. Any recommendations?
Good Morning and thanks for all of the videos and wiring kits on your website. I'm using the all in one battery wiring kit for 4 - 100ah Battleborn with 3k Multiplus Inverter and had a question about adding a 2nd Orion Tr-Isolated 12/12-30 alternator charger to the linx distributor. I was curious if you would recommend running one large gauge wire from the Ford Transit (Attaching 2 leads to the CCP1 posts (2 posts) then to the 60 amp circuit breaker) before running back to the electrical box on the passenger rear of the van before using a bus bar to split the feed back into each Orion Charger. Thanks again for the content.
Each Orion needs to have it's own 60A fuse, so you'll basically want to 'copy/paste' the orion charging leg/kit so you have 2x 60a breakers and 2x positive wires. Plus... 2x 6ga wires are cheaper than 1x 2ga wire, which is what you'd want if you ran a single wire.
Hey mate, would 4awg wire handle 160amps on a 24v system? It’s what my inverter recommends, but most wire charts say it’s not enough, it’s an mpp 3624.
Hi Nate. Just subscribed and good information and wish I found you earlier. In any case first mistake perhaps you can assist. I bought an 800 watt solar system and this is what I have on order and ready to install on my 5th wheel. 1) Renogy 2000 watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter 12V DC to 10 volt AC. 2) Eco-Worthy 800 watt solar panels. 4Pcs Bifacial 195 W solar panels & 12 V 60A MPPT Charger Controller & Bluetooth Module 5.0 & 16' of solar cable. 3) SOK Battery 12v LifePO4 battery Bluetooth & built in heater SK12V206H. I presently have a 2019 Prime Time Crusader 5th wheel that I found out has a 1000 watt inverter some where in the front of my rig. I also have a 100ah lithium battery I bought sometime ago with a battery monitor added. After seeing your video am not wondering if I did the right thing on purchasing what I did. I know it can't run my AC with it and that is fine as I have a generator but for the rest I bought the solar system to help in running other components on over night stays or just rest spots. Any thoughts if a kit of what you offer can be built? Appreciate an advice. Thanks
Hey! So... realistically; you are falling under the 'don't buy parts without having a plan' catagory here. Realistically; you should return everything you've purchased (minus the solar panels; we can work with those) and get a plan together. For example... Renogy doesn't make an inverter/charger that is compatible with 50A RV's, which I believe all of those Prime Time Crusaders are. Check out the new system builder on shop.explorist.life for additional guidance on what you need for equipment that will work with your RV.
If I have two 12volt batteries wired as 24v about three years old is there a way I can add two more “new” batteries “without” the old wearing down the new?
We have historically not had good luck with hydraulic lug crimpers. If the dies aren't perfectly matched up with the lug brand, they seem to have inconsistant results and generally don't crimp tight enough and the last system we did with a hydraulic crimper, 50% of the battery to battery wires had failed at the crimp over time.
They are good batteries. There are two main types, the Victron SmartLiFePO4 Batteries and the Victron SuperPack Batteries. The main upside for the Victron SmartLiFePO4 Batteries is their size. They are quite a bit smaller than most other batteries on the market. The main negative aside from more expensive is they are just too complicated. They require an external BMS and communications to all chargers that requires a fair amount of setup and programming. If you are an installer doing this stuff all of the time, that may not be a big deal, but is not something I'd recommend to the person building their first electrical system. The SuperPack Batteries have an internal BMS and are way easier to set up. They are going to be more similar to Battle Born Batteries (my preferred battery brand) except the Victron batteries are more expensive, have a shorter warranty, and a lower output. Long story short... I recommend Battle Born Batteries in all of the systems I design.
Shoot. I just made one of the mistakes. I bought some used 310W solar panels around my area then bought a Renogy 50A Dual input on board battery charger w/ mppt. Turns out this charger has a max voltage of 25V and my panel puts out 33V. Plus I may want to add a panel in the future. So Ill have to send back my charge controller. Does Vectron make one that I can plug both solar panels as well as my trucks alternator that you might suggest? Im trying to run two dorm friges for an off grid camping trip.
Hey! Victron doesn't have a combo MPPT & DC DC charger all in one kind of unit; they do have separate units, though, that will work flawlessly for what you are after, though.
Hay what would you recommend i want to put a solar power in my 5x3 trailer all it need to run is 2 lights inside (off - on) to charge up a iphone AA batterys for head lamps and to run a bivvy fan and may be a 20" tv ow and a diesel night heater and a 12v spot lamp
The amount of builds I've seen on TH-cam where someone has spent thousands of dollars on components but then they toss in a random Amazon bussbar and eBay fuses and think that it's okay blows my mind
Yep, agreed. if someone needed to pinch pennies, I'd much rather see them spend their money on high quality fuses, fuse holders and tools and then skimp on the actual components with the goal of replacing the cheap component with quality later down the road when the cheap component craps out on them.
hey there , love all the helpful tips here .im getting ready to wire in a victron smart shunt in my engine bay (04 tacoma) i am also insalling the new dakota lithium 12v 135ah battery that will replace my primary starting battery and will be powering the dakota 1500w pure sine wave inverter.my ?'s for you are would 1/0 awg wire be ok to run from behind driver seat to engine bay ,about 8feet. and would the main wire from starter motor connect to battery positive or to the shunt. thanks any help would be greatly appreciated✌
Another reason to plan parts: not having to return stuff you simply never needed in the first place. I find buying from and contacting good vendors while planning helps stave off errors. Two vendors told me to send back ANL fuse I had intended to place between SCC and batt, e.g. Silly standalone dimmer switch, useless SPST switch when I needed 3-way etc. And your plug toward the end is not shameless, it's a consumer service. I must say I'm never sure which of your diagrams to buy for my particular setup. Should I email you what I think I need? Thanks as always.
Ope; and I see the 2nd half edit of your initial post. Yes, you can indeed always reach out for pre-sales support: shop.explorist.life/support. If you want to skip that part, the system picker embedded on the home page of shop.explorist.life is WILDLY helpful.
Can you limit the output on the Quattro? I’m about to build a system and will need a lot of power long term but want to start out with a smaller battery stack and add to it. Is this a good option?
You *can* limit the power output of the Quattro to a degree, but you *can't* undersize your battery bank because you can't limit the inrush current of the unit, which will shut down the battery BMS.
So as a beginner and not really knowing anything, when I start my build I could contact you and you'd tell me what I need for my particular set-up ie. the right panels and batteries? Then put together a complete kit I'd need to make it work properly?
I've already got kits put together and ready to go here shop.explorist.life and all the information on which one to choose and how to install it right here on this channel.
@timdunmyer4549 I was banging my head against the wall when trying to figure out my system. Wasted time and money buying on Amazon, returning what I could. Just to find Nate’s kits we’re just coming out last October. I got a 30 amp diagram from his website and everything but the inverted, panels, and batteries because I had those. I must say it was pretty easy to build after that. He took all the guess work out of it. My truck has run my table saw, chop saw, compressor, induction cooktop, and convection microwave. No issues. Just follow his plans that best suits your needs.
When you got to the part about reading the user manual, I was like "Duh, not everyone reads those things when they should."...but then even I had to go back and look again to be sure I didn't miss it. Am planning my solar setup and was reading manuals to make sure they work for what I need and such. And guess what...I didn't. Where I found that information that you mentioned for needing the minimum 400ah battery capacity, after looking around on the manufacturers website, was not in the User Manual, its actually in the Service Manual, which for sure almost no one reads as they think its for a Technician to read in case they need it. Now with this info, I need to go back to all of what I had selected for my planned setup to make sure I didn't overlook anything else such as this. 12/3000/120, Recommended Ah 400-1200, Rated Current 250A, Recommended DC fuse 400. 24/3000/70, Recommended Ah 200-700, Rated Current 125A, Recommended DC Fuse 300A.
I'd rather see you just use the complete kits I've pre-assembled as that is my most recommended methods. Do our pre-assembled wiring kits not meet your needs?
@@EXPLORISTlife Sure, understand completely. Maybe you could suggest which kit would be best for my needs. I have Renogy 2-200W solar panels, 2- 200W lith batteries, 60A DC to DC battery charger, 3000W inverter, Victron LYN060102000 Lynx Distributor, SmartSolar MPPT 100/50 Solar Charge Controller, BMV-712 Battery Monitor with Battery Temperature Sensor and blue sea ST Blade Split Bus Fuse Block and SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block.
This is the direction I'd point you. This wiring kit: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/complete-wiring-kits/wiring-diagram-kits/400-1200ah-multiplus-3k-12v-orion-12-12-30-wiring-diagram-kit/ Plus this solar charging kit: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/400w-solar-charging-wiring-kit-2x-200w-24v-battery-bank/ You'll have to return/exchange a few parts you've got going on (60A DC DC Charger, and the 3000w inverter if it's not the Victron Muultiplus), but it's pretty close.
Thanks so much for your help. Is there a reason I can’t use my renogy 3000w inverter and renogy 60A dc to dc charger? The reason I got such a big one is in case I wanted to add more solar or batteries. My van has a 100 amp battery and 220 amp alternator. Thanks again for your help.
hey nate you do amazing work, i appreciate it all. question: how would you choose to power 12v loads from 24v battery bank/inverter/charger? not sure what the proper amperage is to run a 30amp rv
For that, I'd leave the OEM batteries in place and then use a Victron Orion charger between the lynx distributor and the OEM battery bank to keep the OEM 12V system charged. If you need a 3000w or smaller inverter, I'd recommend just sticking with a 12V battery bank, though like I've got in this diagram here: www.explorist.life/30a-camper-inverter-with-solar-and-alternator-charging-wiring-diagram/
After studying DC systems for a few months, I went to BattleBorn Battery and purchased all of my system components. What they recommended was all based on a system diagram from your company. They graciously walked me through every inch of it, answered every question I asked and provided hand holding where necessary. Great company! However, they did not say anything about me using the 3000 watt Victron Inverter with 200 amp hours of BB Lithium batteries; all of which was purchased from them on a single order. Is this dangerous in the long term? This system has been installed and running for 2 years without any hiccups. Thoughts?
If it has been working...it should be fine. It's just hit or miss on if less than 400ah of battery bank capacity will support the inrush current of the capacitors on system startup of the Multiplus 3k.
Hey Nate, we used your renogy wiring diagram and followed it well even using a lot of the links your provided. We’ve been using the system for over 3 months and everytime our 400 amp hours of lithium battery gets to 50% all power shuts off. We’ve done diagnostic calls with renogy and can’t figure it out. Do you know why this would be happening?
Sounds like a settings issue. Make sure your BMV-712 'charged voltage' is set up to be .2V lower than all of your chargers 'absorption voltage' and that your battery bank amp hours is set to 400Ah in the BMV settings. If those two settings are 'off', your BMV may be miscalculating the state of charge. Once you make sure those are set up properly, if you're still having issues, that's going to be a Renogy issue which I unfortunately have to send you back to them for. They have pretty terrible customer support most of the time, but I'm pretty handcuffed with what I can do there.
HI Nate. Another great video with some great info. Question - I have a 12V 300Ah battery from Enduro. I'm looking to power it with a MultiPlus C 12/2000/80-50 120V. Do you have a wiring diagram that you would recommend for this build? I did a power audit and established I should be fine with 300 Ah (just a weekend rig no AC, small DC fridge etc.). It would be amazing if you were to do a video on a smaller power build using one of the 270 Ah batteries from BB.
Great video. I was just nodding along until you got to the bit about solar panel voltage. I was about to do that. I wonder if you would answer a question for me. I have an existing camper that was supplied with two solar panels (Hub Solar HS200-36M) with a Vmpp of 20.5V, and a PWM controller. The weird thing is that the panels are sloped away from each other so they'll never see the same sun angle. I was thinking of replacing the controller with two MPPTs, one for each panel, but it sounds like this won't work well because I'll rarely have enough voltage to charge the 12V batteries. Do you have any suggestions?
For panels of that low voltage stay with PWM controllers. Use 2 and parallel them together. Amps will add up. MPPT s typically need more voltage to work.
Have you ever thought about using a bluetti as the power source? I see they have a lot of options, seems to me it would be a great option, because of its portability and charging options .
Those portable power units are great for a 'chuck it in the truck and go' kind of thing. We have a Jackery for weekend tent camping like that. I don't like them for a permanently built in system though as they are generally too restrictive.
I don’t even know what you mean by the 12V connection to a 24V converter? Of course I don’t know anything about my electric system anyway but I’m really trying to! lol
I was part way into paying someone to design a system for my sailboat. The problem was that he wanted me to figure out what I needed based on what the loads are. We have 15yr old AGMs and want a new AGM starting and a lithium house bank. Our diesel is small and I don't want to overload it with a big alternator. We have a 70A Balmar externally regulated. I found a TH-cam channel that shared the system diagram with wire sizes and fuses all Victron. It's SV Tritea's system. As you said, no need to reinvent the wheel. I didn't know that you sold complete systems. I bought everything already except the new AGM. Thinking about the Optima D34M but it is kinda pricey. Any ideas?
That's fine as long as the array voltage/amperage is below the max voltage/amperage of the anderson connector. I prefer something like shown in this video, though, that we installed for our ground deploy solar array: th-cam.com/video/E5q7_4FH4LQ/w-d-xo.html
@@EXPLORISTlife just realised the auto correction messed up my question. What I meant to ask was, whats thickness and width on original victron bus bar
@@EXPLORISTlife ok thanks just thought the copper adapter looked much smaller in width, not sure of the thickness, compared to the victron, will it handle the same 1000A current.
Thanks so much for all your videos Nate. I have an 87 Vanagon Westy. It currently has a cheap battery solenoid, a 50 ah house batt. I need a plan that fits in the smaller needs and smaller space of that vehicle. I do have one 200ah lithium battery for this project. In looking through your plans it seems that even in the smaller systems you recommend tge MultiPlus inverter chargers. They’re fairly large. Do you have clients that have put those in Vanagons? I’d appreciate any thoughts you might have on using or adapting one of your plans for a Vanagon install. Looking forward to working with you and/or your plans and kits on this.
Yep! Seen that one used in a small system. A multiplus 2k will be smaller than an Inverter plus a charger plus a transfer switch with all the wiring and fusing.
I have a pwm charge controller that came on my rv with 400 w of solar on the roof. I would like to go with a mppt charge controller do I have to change the existing wiring size. Thank You
I am having trouble finding victron 48v mega fuses under 125A for the lynx distributor here in New Zealand. I have 2x 45A victron mppt wired into a lynx distributor, but in the 48v range i can't find a fuse lower than 125A. Does anyone know if they exist from Victron or do i have to go to another brand?
Nope. Pure copper or tinned copper (for corrosive environments) only. copper clad aluminum has a whole different set of amperages that are lower per wire size with, often, inferior insulation. It's simply a lower quality product.
Is it okay to use bigger than needed wire? I had a long run where I needed a bigger gauge, and instead of using a bigger gauge for only that one specific run, I just used it for everything 12v. I know I spent more money than needed but figured it would be okay.
Can I add 2 lithium 100-amp batteries in place of my lead acid. my converter has a switch. Do I need to change wires or anything else? I do not want to do a big rewire of trailer.
If your converter is set up to charge Lithium and everything else is good to go for Lithium, yes. You'll want to dive into learning about you system. I can't say for 100% sure that it will work based on the minimal amount I know about your system.
to add up on the #2 . those who want to make a system where they have for example a grid connection to, like a shed in their garden already wired to their home electrics and want to design a setup to charge their lawnmower battery only to "save money". Essentially spending $500 bucks on some kit to charge a battery that uses about 10 cents of electricity a year at the moment.
Nate. Really like your web and vids. You mentioned too low voltage from solar array not charging the batteries but what about too low array wattage to charge a battery. Because of fund limitations I can only afford a 800 watt array to charge a 600ah battery bank. I know I should have a 1800watt array but can’t afford it now. Will it work?
It may not charge all the way to 100% depending on how much of those 600Ah you are using every day and you'll need to supplement with a generator/alternator/etc
@@EXPLORISTlifethanks I’ll be adding 400 more watts soon. Will the Victron 150/100 mppt handle more than 1200w in case I want 1600watta. I will be using your1200w diagram system to guide me
Check this out (paying special attention to the 'NOTE' in the product description): shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/1600w-solar-charging-wiring-kit-8x-200w-12v-battery-bank/
Hey guys, hope your' season is going well. What heater option did you go with? Webasto diesel heater? Propane? Water heater? Is weboost really worth its price $$$? I'm in truck and trailer and would be great to meet up if you're still doing road gigs? Or camp meet
We haven't installed our heater just yet, but will be going with espar/webasto gas heater (can't remember which with my 6:30am-half-cup-of-coffee brain. 😂)
I installed the Rixen system in my truck build, I’m a carpenter and I have it set to 50° to keep tools warm and when camping in truck just turn it up. I bought it in Sandy OR because I happened to be working in Hood River at the time. Was a bit pricey but has worked flawlessly and the guys there were so helpful with any questions I had. Being in the mountains it also has a built in altimeter so it adjusts with elevation change. Also I bought the hot water kit and the engine kit so I can have free heat while driving!
Nate, greatly enjoyed the video. Earlier this year, you guys helped me out with the layout details for my set up. It's been running smoothly for months , util this weekend. This past Friday, we had a catastrophic failure in my Multiplus, loud pops and white smoke. This happened for no apparent reason. The RV had been sitting in the storage lot for over a week. I came back and discovered a fault on the MPPT. I went through the trouble shooting and upon re energizing , the smoke. I am in contact with Victron and the distributors; however, I still have no clue as to why or how this happens. What do you do when ALL the protocols and proper techniques are followed and you still have this kind of failure?
I ordered diy "battery box" with some cables in, added a solar charger. Once I started reading up I realized I could have just bought a empty box as I had to replace all cables and fuses, and had to add a bus bar, and then replace the useless usb charging ports as well... I did not have a plan and just started buying lol
Hey Nate I actually bought a very expensive bundle from victron for a for transit. Any chance I can get help with a wiring diagram? It’s all bran new best of the best, 3x 330ah batts, all victron components, and 2nd alternator kit. Cost over 15k so far, and there’s a few things are finding some conflicting information on and the absolute last thing I wanna do is screw it up
You'll want to get a diagram from whomever you decided to do business with on those components. Then for wiring, you can browse our wiring kits to see what we have that will work for you.
@@EXPLORISTlife I understand I bought it from, vanlifeoutfitters, they seem to want to be helpful but I like your content and explanations much better. Some of the stuff I have here you don’t have a tutorial on yet as far as I can see but I’m still hopeful. I guess my biggest question was they appear to be running the battery positives all the way back to the links distributor for each battery rather than daisychain them together essentially providing fused power for each and I wasn’t sure if they were doing that just so I had to purchase two links distributors lol but thank you very much for responding
@maddhatter8 Yeah, that's not what I recommend since it requires more wiring/fusing/components/space. Glad you find our content helpful, though! Would love to have you as a customer next time for your whole system so we can help you from the start! There's too many other dealers/distributors out there who are only interested in selling the components but offer no help on how to wire it all together. I hate that you didn't find us sooner. 😪
Nate-- ty for this video! Is the Victron 12V 3K inverter + GC3 270AH battery pair a big problem? I purchased my "kit" over the phone with Battleborn including those components. Everything else matches your wiring diagram in my set up. I had at least two conversations with Battleborn by phone to put my kit together and they never once mentioned the minimum AH for the inverter which seems like an obvious thing to let a customer know -- I didn't notice it in the manual until recently. I have everything wired up except the inverter to AC panel. Working on that currently. Now I have to buy another $2500 battery? Hmm.
Tough to say at this time. 3x100Ah Battle Born Batteries has issues pretty often, but I don't have enough data on the 270Ah batteries to know if their BMS handles the inrush current differently.
I placed an order last week with battle born for the Victron multiplus II 12V 3K 2x120 along with three 100 amps batteries and some more stuff but they never mentioned that issue… 😖 and my small rooftop it’s maxed out at only 400 watts of solar power… ☹️
Good morning I just traded coaches and want to know if two different battery system can both be incorporated in the coach. The coach has a Lifeline AGM GPL - 8DL 255Ah battery, Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 inverter/charger & a solar panel 200+/- Watts. I have 4 Battle Born 100Ah batteries, Go Power IC 3000 inverter/charger & a portable 200W solar panel and misc. components. These were all remover from my trade-in. Thank You for all the info. you provide.
Hey Nate, great video! One question on the "reading the manual" part. You say people have complained that their system turns off when they have 300 amp hours of batteries with a 3kVa inverter. What exactly was their problem do you know? I'm using a 220v 3kVa (2600 watts) inverter as I'm Europe, and my system is planned to have 300 amp batteries, but at the moment I'm with a 100 amps. I have been using the system for 1 year with 0 problems, the one thing I have done is limit the AC output from the inverter so I do not exceed 1C that the battery is capable of (1200 watts). I don't see any other issues that might be a problem with having a smaller batter bank, maybe the peak power of 5500 W that the inverter is rated? If you are using products that do not exceed 2600 watts the inverter is rated to, the batteries at 300 amps have a 3600 watts for output, so that will not be a problem for the batteries, and if you put a 300 amps fuse, the only with the peak power of 5500 watts that will happen will blow the ANL, which will be a appliance failure. Can you give some thought on that if I'm mistaken? Thank you!!
The issue lies in the inrush current of the multiplus 3k capacitors drawing so much power for a few milliseconds at startup that it shuts the BMS of the batteries down because it sees it as a short.
Tip 1. Oversize everything. Tip 2. Use components that you can add onto to grow the system. Tip 3. You will want a larger system than you think. Tip 4. Realize alot of sellers want to sell you as much stuff as they can so do your homework on the components you buy so you dont end up buying a larger inverter and have parts sitting on a shelf or trying to sell your to small of stuff that didnt work out.
Help ! 2021 Grand Design Reflection 5th-wheel came with a cheap, flooded battery. I upgraded to a 206aH SOK lithium battery only to find that the OEM WFCO converter was not lithium compatible. So, upgraded the converter to a WFCO 8955-AD (auto detect). It lasted about three weeks before it overheated to the point of the transformer coil coating melting off (nasty odor). Returned it, thinking the converter was defective. In the meantime, ordered and installed a PowerMax PM3 series, which was cheaper and easier to set up. It lasted 2-1/2 weeks before melting down as well. Any ideas? The converter replacement is very basic, so apparently not the issue. I am clueless at this point. I just finished a month long stay at an RV repair shop for slide motor replacement. When the first converter failed while at the shop, their electrical person was clueless (under-skilled) as well. Help ! PS; have a second SOK 206aH battery, but not yet integrated.
If you've burned up two converters in a row, I'd suspect there is something wired wrong. Converters can fail, but two of them back to back? I'd be triple checking all connections and making sure everything is connected properly. Reach out to tech support of your converter if needed.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you! I pulled the distribution panel out and traced the wiring back to converter. Found a worn spot where the hot had been rubbing against a screw. I insulated the area, properly secured the wiring (which the factory had not). Will be installing another replacement converter tomorrow, but pretty sure this was the issue.
Thanks Nate! Always great content. Can’t wait to order my wirering kit from you. Im still learning and planning but Im getting closer to that step. :-)
Welp, I am guilty of not reading the manual. Bought a renogy 2000W inverter and one 100Ah 12V battery. I guess the minimum capacity for their 2000W inverter is two 100Ah batteries. Kinda sucks. I was getting the 2000W inverter so I had headroom for extra loads later. Another battery right now is outside of this DIY budget of mine.
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you for this video though! luckily I saw this video before I started wiring everything together! And luckily Amazon makes returns easy! Haha gotta order the 1000W inverter now 😅
'Professional Installer' put a washer between the lug and fuse on the wire going to the Inverter which caused an immense amount of resistance -> heat -> smoldering which almost caught on fire.
@@EXPLORISTlife It seems like when one mistake is made, many are made. In repair projects at our shop we see loose wires, incorrect wires, incorrect components, washers between connections... It's almost impressive how confidently incorrect some can be. Icing on the cake is burying all that work so it can't be seen. The people that most need to see this video I fear aren't doing enough homework to find your fantastic resources.
What issues have all of you seen and how could they have been avoided?
Avoiding mistakes begins with having good work ethic, but starting with quality products and components helps. Check out our store where we've hand-curated kits and parts that will help your electrical system installation go smoothly: shop.explorist.life
Here is a link to @Will Prowse's video. Go check it out and see what we said that was similar and different. Lots of good considerations between my video and his: th-cam.com/video/-3dNJAe8XEc/w-d-xo.html
I'm watching your videos - but I'm a sailor. For me nearly same business.
What I experienced over time was: Just connecting new loads "somewhere" in the system - most without a fuse.
What adds up in maritime environment: You should use marine grade cable (ok - more expensive) were each copper is coated with kind of tin. USCG regulations require that - for a good reason.
Yep, if you don't follow these "basics", you can't follow the more complex requirements. Trouble is, you have to pretty much know it ALL, which is where pros always have it over the DIYer. In Ex We Trust
Hey Nate! Been watchig for a bit now. Just wanted to say thank you for your knowledge on solar which has helped me install a system in my 4Runner. Your channels or classes as I like to call them helped me understand the system from wiring, batteries controllers and so on. Wanted a system mainly to keep the fridge going but now it powers so much much including induction burners and coffee maker! Although my system is complete (for now) I still love watching this channel. Keep it up!
Speaking from experience here as a customer.
Electrical systems are not something you want to skimp on.
We've been very happy with components, diagrams, and kits from Nate. He's done a huge amount of the leg work for you and I priced out buying the components for his kits, and his prices are comparable and fair and we ended up just buying his kits. Totally worth it, and ended up with a system that works great. This dude is a gem.
"Expensive" components cost insignificantly more in the context of a van build. And I'm a cheapskate.
No, it is not a "shameless plug", Nate! LOL. You are saving so many people from making crazy mistakes. Your web store is so thorough along with your free calculators, pre-made kits and knowledge articles. If we are too lazy to use these tools/knowledge to make our lives better, then we deserve the consequence.
agreed!
One thing I would add as a beginner miskate, is wearing rings, watches or jewery when working on DC systems. It only takes a small mistake to put your hand across a Positive and Negative and you will get a serious burn and a hospital visit. Take of all metal when working. Cheers
Silicon ring. Save the gold ring for date nights!
Don't work on a live system, that's never a good idea
I bought a kit from Nate, and I cannot recommend it enough. It's been powering my van that I live in full time for almost a year. Absolutely fantastic.
Hey Sam Soffes, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Nate's work and attention to detail is excellent. I'm an experienced electrical designer / builder and I purchased a couple of his plans to support all of his hard work. They are excellent and great reference material. And I agree, so many problems could be avoided if people would read the OEM manuals. Victrons are excellent.
Hi Nate! I just wanted to pass on a big and long overdue thanks for all that you’ve helped me with on my RV’s electrical system. Following the techniques from your videos and schematics from your website, I totally rebuilt my RV’s off-grid system last winter ... with outstanding results. It performed flawlessly this past camping season ... all thanks to you.
The content above represents one of the best “Top 10 Mistakes” videos that I’ve seen on this subject. A few of the 10 are subtle, but no less important than say choosing the correct wire and lug size and type. Lug size bit me when I tried to connect a 4/0 lug to the Victron Lynx Distributor and found that the HD lug version I had chosen would not fit.
@WillProuse is an excellent source of info. I’ve been following Will since he first appeared on TH-cam and have learned so much from his content.
Another good TH-cam choice for off-grid solar tips and tricks is Andy from @OffGridGarageAustralia, especially if you are into Victron gear. His content is geared toward the home solar system, but much of his work covers the off-grid RVer as well. He’s pretty entertaining to boot.
Yeah, Nate, Will & Andy, my 3 top YT’s
I’m really glad that I obsessively scour TH-cam before during and after a project. If I hadn’t then I wouldn’t have come across your video and your diagrams. I bought the diagram pdf just to show my support, but the page with the link to the correct products was the #1 best piece of assistance to me. I’m happy to say that I don’t think I’ve made any of the mistakes listed because I’ve been following your videos. Thank you!
Hi Nate, just wanted to say thank you for all of the videos you and Steph have created the last couple of years. I built out my van after I retired and I'm currently in Quartzsite enjoin the sunset. Thanks!
Excellent example of Pre-sale service. Kudos. I'm looking at all your videos, and I like your way of explaining things.Yes, you've won a client.
Lessons Learned... over the years... this video is pure gold
Its a no brainer, I follow Will, and your recommandations and my system is running flawlessly 😊
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Very nice I can see how it would. The advice is second
Great video.... Take your time in designing, planning and installation! I started back during the summer, and recently built everything up on a workbench to get a visible representation, and to get the latest Victron firmware updates installed. I'll be preforming the install/upgrade while our RV is in storage during the upcoming winter months.
Several comments to add; mentioning of proper grounding of "ALL" DC components, mistake of thinking DC electrical systems work the same as AC electrical systems, using residential (Romex) wire in your builds, improper size of fuse to protect the battery bank and amperage rating of the battery shut-off (should be based on inverter, not on battery AH).
I purchased the majority of my Victron equipment from a company in Arizona during their Labor Day sale (10% off), and my Battle Born batteries during their Recent Cyber Monday deals. Based on my design, both companies went far and above in asking questions before actually selling me the equipment, so I purchased components that will work together. Also, the Arizona company suggested that I create a Victron VRM portal to go with the Cerbo GX in order to fine tune the various settings of each component to get the best results possible
You were the best thing we found when we were building a camper we designed everything off of your diagrams thanks again Nate
Your wiring diagrams are the best value in all of van building. As you said, very complete and easy to understand and follow for a novice like me.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Completely agree. Bought and followed to diagram to a T. Now we do have experience in electric and construction but solar was a new aspect. Now, doing the work ourselves may have taken longer but the knowledge gained was invaluable. When boondocking, if issues arise, we have a understanding of how to fix. Thank you Nate
Hello .. Nate Do u have a 48v wiring diagram?
Just wanted to send my thanks for all the invaluable information your videos and website provided in my planning of my solar system for our 5th wheel. You're absolutely right about using quality components/equipment right from the start; well worth the "extra" money up front rather than dealing with potential issues with cheaper stuff. Your online schematics were very useful indeed! No need to 're-invent the wheel' :)
Yep totally true I wish I would have seen all this before I did almost all the mistakes that he is talking about....suucks
As a new RVer about to perform some upgrades, your videos (and your store) are invaluable assets.
Hey, @fu4616! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
I've been interested in solar systems since the early 80s, and have watched the advancements in tech over the years. I've recently set up a system in my 'ute' (I'm Aussie) that I wired up myself.
With a little experience, and using YT as a resource, I've set up roughly 500 watts of solar, 230 amps of AGM (to be upgraded soon), two charge controllers, a DC-DC charger, and a 3000 watt inverter. I was meticulous in wiring the system up correctly and double-checked everything. Thank you for this video. I just watched it and mentally checklisted my work against your advice. Happy to say, I think I did good.
Disclaimer: I'm a jack of trades, master of none. The ute the solar system is in has also had the engine mostly rebuilt and upgraded in some parts by me, and I'm building the back for my tools, rooftop tent, 100 litres of spare water, plus a bunch of other stuff (hot water etc)
Oh Thank you so much, I have just had a pheonix 12/3000 installed and upgraded to 3x 100Ah Lithium batteries, so I am quickly acquiring another battery before my camper gets used.
There are not many electrical installers to help with Victron Products in my city in New Zealand. I have watched heaps of your channel and direct my auto electrician to your channel to explain what I am wanting him to do.
@text426 Hi Nate I tried to send a message from my New Zealand prepaid phone but guessed you didn't get it. My phone probably only texts to New Zealand numbers sorry.
Lots of good information. I think with fuses there are also issues with post sizes. Some of these higher Amperage fuses have very small lug sizes. This is specifically related to the square marine fuses.
Thanks Nate , Clear and Concise as usual
Congratulations. An extremely useful and pertinent video. I do hope people follow your advice.
Thank you very much!
I am thinking about doing some sort of battery system to hopefully run a12v ac/heat unit in my van. I will definitely be visiting your website and likely be buying your products, thanks for the informational video!
Nice! Sounds like an awesome project! Thanks for watching!
Just re-watching your videos you, will and hobo are my three go to channels to watch thank you for your hard work I much appreciate it you help me build my Overland truck
Awesome! Thank you!
A very good video, people don't realize that even at low voltage 12, 24, Batteries have a LOT of current and that current can start a fire so fast or smoke up and melt the insulation and that
burning insulation could be harmfull to breathe.
Good video. I have a hydraulic crimper because I read from a guy that does sound systems. He said all of his connections are hydraulic. It is a little speedy but worth having peace of mind that it is tight. You can’t go wrong with buying the better tools.
Hello Dagwood,
I’m looking for a hexagonal crimper that will crimp four gauge Ferrell’s, any suggestions?
@@tc4275 I have one. Who is this?
@@dagwood1327 hello and thank you for the super quick reply!
i’m an exterior painter who is building a power van to do my work in the field. I’m using Victron equipment. dc/dc charger, 100/50 MPPT Solar charge controller.
All of the crimpers I am finding can only handle five gauge not four.
What brand are you using?
Thank you for your great content. I plan to place an order from your store soon. Look forward to learning more.
Hi, could you recommend a good wire crimp tool to buy? Watch this video and love to get the k e you recommend to avoid issues. Thanks !!
Interesting comment you made regarding documentation and then the 12V multiplus II 3000 .... First I do have two 100 Ah Battle Born batteries in parallel in my 16' motorhome and very very happy with the performance .. also using Victron. I wanted to take advantage of the BB sales at Thanksgiving week (22) and called in advance regarding what I am building for a small radio shack. I have yet to complete the install of the Inverter mentioned. The inverter I think runs at 2400 Watts... and I looked up the specs and said it says minimum of 400 to max of 1200 AMP batteries (as you stated). I was interested in 1 x 270Ah battery possibly more Ah but BB sales (won't mention his name) said because the inverter 2400 Watt (?) non VA, all I would need is the 270 Ah. Even when I mentioned the Victron minimum 400Ah data he said that is just a suggestion on their part and not "required". I had other difficulties communicating with them and decided not to go with their great batteries. Price became and issue and issues with pre-fab wires I was going to buy. (I need to look at your store) ... Well I lost some confidence in their "support" and decided not to buy. I am working on installing the plus II into it's location and much more to do before getting batteries... So, I ordered an EG4 12V basic rack battery which has yet shipped. It is 400Ah and I feel I did right by this decision. They told me that I can add more units into the future with nothing like having to do it within 3 months or so. It will not communicate with the Cerbo GX but their 24 and 48 do ... but I plan on using a Victron shunt... and I think the multiplus ii has some monitoring but I don't know how to wire it to pick up all my use such that the Victron shunt does. .. yet.. We always need to be careful for just going by people who want to make a sale ... doing the right thing ... ? you never have to worry about money etc... basically.
I also purchased the EG4 rack batteries but also got the 48v EG4 all-in-one 6500 EX inverter/charger vs the Victron multiplus. Comes with its own monitoring software. i’m still going to buy the shunt for the batteries from Victron, but really that’s all I need. those two together the inverter and the battery rack is just so plug and play. dc-to-dc charging will be victron from my alternator. Nate’s diagram that I purchased still helped me a great deal.
@@mikefranks4528 Thanks. I am looking forward to receiving the EG$ 12V .... It looks like your system is quite a sizable one compared to my needs. Does the 6500 EX also pull and blend from various sources to invert at the same time as the Multi Plus II does? I have gotten mine connected up but do have it mounted on what I call the "Power wall". With the Cerbo GX an individual units I find I can or will be able to upgrade and even repurpose the different modules. I.E. the solar controller.
😂 awe crap… I made it in your video when you stared talking about poor workmanship. Was is the same size wires, the one random fuse or the cardboard box I stored my batteries in that gave me away? Haha thankfully I’ve watched enough of your videos and lectures by now I think my workmanship is now waayyy better!😅
Hey Nate thank you for all the work and time you put into your DIY videos. You helped me put together a solar system for my truck camper. Question regarding DC to Dc changing, can I utilize my inbed truck inverter to shorepower plug on camper while I'm driving?
Hi Nate can you do a video on using a Blueitti AC200max in a dyi system ?
The victron component with the minimum battery size required-- is that due to supporting the max rate of charge / discharge and the average C rate for lithium batteries?
Another great video. Thanks Nate. Happy to say my system is working rock solid at 100% . But then again I followed your instruction videos. Thanks Bro .....
Hey Jersey Jim, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Question: If one can not purchase all of their componants at the same time - in which order would you recommend?
The thinking is that one may not be able to put together the perect plan before hand and do purchases as used componants become available.
My guess is - Solar panels > Batteries > Charge Controller > Cables > Inverters Thank You
LMAO - I know this is 6 months old and I'm in the planning stage of my solar/electrical but at the end of #4 "Then you won't be in my tech support email anymore".. I had to laugh because I work IT, for 30+ years and I can relate SOOOO much. Just wanted to thank you for the laugh and I'm still powering thru (no pun intended) all of your videos so when I get done it'll be because of you and your training. Not to put any pressure on you. ;)
Fantastic video, Nate! Great info and high production quality! Thank you!
Mistakes
#1, 2 & 6…
Thank you TH-cam 😄
Thanks for the additional “Beginner Mistakes”. 🤙🏼
#10 is the challenge I enjoy! Buying for me is always price based so often have no choice but to make it work! #9 if your making that mistake maybe you shouldn’t be playing with charged particles!
I'm at the beginning of my build and only have my batteries wired so far. I was adding a negative wire to one end and it sparked a couple times! Is my battery fried? What did I do wrong? Could it just have been the other end of the wire touched the positive side and everything is still ok?? Nervous to keep going. 😅
It seems like an infrared thermometer would be a valuable troubleshooting and maintenance tool in case I screw up on wire gauge or poor crimps. I couldn’t find one in your store. Any recommendations?
Good Morning and thanks for all of the videos and wiring kits on your website. I'm using the all in one battery wiring kit for 4 - 100ah Battleborn with 3k Multiplus Inverter and had a question about adding a 2nd Orion Tr-Isolated 12/12-30 alternator charger to the linx distributor. I was curious if you would recommend running one large gauge wire from the Ford Transit (Attaching 2 leads to the CCP1 posts (2 posts) then to the 60 amp circuit breaker) before running back to the electrical box on the passenger rear of the van before using a bus bar to split the feed back into each Orion Charger. Thanks again for the content.
Each Orion needs to have it's own 60A fuse, so you'll basically want to 'copy/paste' the orion charging leg/kit so you have 2x 60a breakers and 2x positive wires. Plus... 2x 6ga wires are cheaper than 1x 2ga wire, which is what you'd want if you ran a single wire.
Hey mate, would 4awg wire handle 160amps on a 24v system? It’s what my inverter recommends, but most wire charts say it’s not enough, it’s an mpp 3624.
Another tip... have fun with the new hobby of building your solar cause when done right its really enjoyable
Hi Nate. Just subscribed and good information and wish I found you earlier. In any case first mistake perhaps you can assist. I bought an 800 watt solar system and this is what I have on order and ready to install on my 5th wheel.
1) Renogy 2000 watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter 12V DC to 10 volt AC.
2) Eco-Worthy 800 watt solar panels. 4Pcs Bifacial 195 W solar panels & 12 V 60A MPPT Charger Controller & Bluetooth Module 5.0 & 16' of solar cable.
3) SOK Battery 12v LifePO4 battery Bluetooth & built in heater SK12V206H.
I presently have a 2019 Prime Time Crusader 5th wheel that I found out has a 1000 watt inverter some where in the front of my rig. I also have a 100ah lithium battery I bought sometime ago with a battery monitor added.
After seeing your video am not wondering if I did the right thing on purchasing what I did. I know it can't run my AC with it and that is fine as I have a generator but for the rest I bought the solar system to help in running other components on over night stays or just rest spots.
Any thoughts if a kit of what you offer can be built?
Appreciate an advice.
Thanks
Hey! So... realistically; you are falling under the 'don't buy parts without having a plan' catagory here. Realistically; you should return everything you've purchased (minus the solar panels; we can work with those) and get a plan together. For example... Renogy doesn't make an inverter/charger that is compatible with 50A RV's, which I believe all of those Prime Time Crusaders are. Check out the new system builder on shop.explorist.life for additional guidance on what you need for equipment that will work with your RV.
Nate, I was surprised that your shop offers fuses for solar panels. When do you recommend such?
Saw already some problems on sailboats.
If I have two 12volt batteries wired as 24v about three years old is there a way I can add two more “new” batteries “without” the old wearing down the new?
I noticed you didn't show a hydraulic lug crimper is there a reason why? By the way great content
We have historically not had good luck with hydraulic lug crimpers. If the dies aren't perfectly matched up with the lug brand, they seem to have inconsistant results and generally don't crimp tight enough and the last system we did with a hydraulic crimper, 50% of the battery to battery wires had failed at the crimp over time.
What's your opinion on the Victron batteries? They're super expensive but do we need them?
They are good batteries. There are two main types, the Victron SmartLiFePO4 Batteries and the Victron SuperPack Batteries.
The main upside for the Victron SmartLiFePO4 Batteries is their size. They are quite a bit smaller than most other batteries on the market. The main negative aside from more expensive is they are just too complicated. They require an external BMS and communications to all chargers that requires a fair amount of setup and programming. If you are an installer doing this stuff all of the time, that may not be a big deal, but is not something I'd recommend to the person building their first electrical system.
The SuperPack Batteries have an internal BMS and are way easier to set up. They are going to be more similar to Battle Born Batteries (my preferred battery brand) except the Victron batteries are more expensive, have a shorter warranty, and a lower output.
Long story short... I recommend Battle Born Batteries in all of the systems I design.
Shoot. I just made one of the mistakes. I bought some used 310W solar panels around my area then bought a Renogy 50A Dual input on board battery charger w/ mppt. Turns out this charger has a max voltage of 25V and my panel puts out 33V. Plus I may want to add a panel in the future. So Ill have to send back my charge controller. Does Vectron make one that I can plug both solar panels as well as my trucks alternator that you might suggest? Im trying to run two dorm friges for an off grid camping trip.
Hey! Victron doesn't have a combo MPPT & DC DC charger all in one kind of unit; they do have separate units, though, that will work flawlessly for what you are after, though.
Hay what would you recommend i want to put a solar power in my 5x3 trailer all it need to run is 2 lights inside (off - on) to charge up a iphone AA batterys for head lamps and to run a bivvy fan and may be a 20" tv ow and a diesel night heater and a 12v spot lamp
Thanks a lot for all you guys do.
I’m curious if you have explored the idea of using a 48 Volts system? If so, is there any advantage?
Thanks
The amount of builds I've seen on TH-cam where someone has spent thousands of dollars on components but then they toss in a random Amazon bussbar and eBay fuses and think that it's okay blows my mind
Yep, agreed. if someone needed to pinch pennies, I'd much rather see them spend their money on high quality fuses, fuse holders and tools and then skimp on the actual components with the goal of replacing the cheap component with quality later down the road when the cheap component craps out on them.
hey there , love all the helpful tips here .im getting ready to wire in a victron smart shunt in my engine bay (04 tacoma) i am also insalling the new dakota lithium 12v 135ah battery that will replace my primary starting
battery and will be powering the dakota 1500w pure sine wave inverter.my ?'s for you are would 1/0 awg wire be ok to run from behind driver seat to engine bay ,about 8feet. and would the main wire from starter motor connect to battery positive or to the shunt. thanks any help would be greatly appreciated✌
Thank you Nate & Steph, great list...
Thanks! 🙂🙌
Another reason to plan parts: not having to return stuff you simply never needed in the first place. I find buying from and contacting good vendors while planning helps stave off errors. Two vendors told me to send back ANL fuse I had intended to place between SCC and batt, e.g. Silly standalone dimmer switch, useless SPST switch when I needed 3-way etc. And your plug toward the end is not shameless, it's a consumer service. I must say I'm never sure which of your diagrams to buy for my particular setup. Should I email you what I think I need? Thanks as always.
Good vendor here. 👋🏻👋🏻😅 We are here when you need us: shop.explorist.life
@@EXPLORISTlife I refer to direct vendor contact but plainly you're a one-stop shop-n-support. Pretty clear you know as much as them. Thanks again.
Yep! And in the case of Victron, they don’t offer direct support, so you have to go through a distributor like ourselves.
Ope; and I see the 2nd half edit of your initial post. Yes, you can indeed always reach out for pre-sales support: shop.explorist.life/support.
If you want to skip that part, the system picker embedded on the home page of shop.explorist.life is WILDLY helpful.
Nate you a champ! Shot bro! 💪🏼
Can you limit the output on the Quattro? I’m about to build a system and will need a lot of power long term but want to start out with a smaller battery stack and add to it. Is this a good option?
You *can* limit the power output of the Quattro to a degree, but you *can't* undersize your battery bank because you can't limit the inrush current of the unit, which will shut down the battery BMS.
A lot of good info as usual Nate. Cheers
Thank you for putting together kits!!!!
Our pleasure! Cheers!
So as a beginner and not really knowing anything, when I start my build I could contact you and you'd tell me what I need for my particular set-up ie. the right panels and batteries? Then put together a complete kit I'd need to make it work properly?
I've already got kits put together and ready to go here shop.explorist.life and all the information on which one to choose and how to install it right here on this channel.
@timdunmyer4549 I was banging my head against the wall when trying to figure out my system. Wasted time and money buying on Amazon, returning what I could. Just to find Nate’s kits we’re just coming out last October. I got a 30 amp diagram from his website and everything but the inverted, panels, and batteries because I had those. I must say it was pretty easy to build after that. He took all the guess work out of it. My truck has run my table saw, chop saw, compressor, induction cooktop, and convection microwave. No issues. Just follow his plans that best suits your needs.
When you got to the part about reading the user manual, I was like "Duh, not everyone reads those things when they should."...but then even I had to go back and look again to be sure I didn't miss it. Am planning my solar setup and was reading manuals to make sure they work for what I need and such. And guess what...I didn't. Where I found that information that you mentioned for needing the minimum 400ah battery capacity, after looking around on the manufacturers website, was not in the User Manual, its actually in the Service Manual, which for sure almost no one reads as they think its for a Technician to read in case they need it. Now with this info, I need to go back to all of what I had selected for my planned setup to make sure I didn't overlook anything else such as this.
12/3000/120, Recommended Ah 400-1200, Rated Current 250A, Recommended DC fuse 400.
24/3000/70, Recommended Ah 200-700, Rated Current 125A, Recommended DC Fuse 300A.
I've literally built this channel and our business around reading the manual and relaying that information to people. 😂🤣
Just a reminder to size fuses to specs of wire you are using and not to a generic wire or generic number
Hi Nate,
Is there a way to contact you for input on my van wiring kit needs? on the website doesn't look like you are consulting anymore.
I'd rather see you just use the complete kits I've pre-assembled as that is my most recommended methods. Do our pre-assembled wiring kits not meet your needs?
@@EXPLORISTlife Sure, understand completely. Maybe you could suggest which kit would be best for my needs. I have Renogy 2-200W solar panels, 2- 200W lith batteries, 60A DC to DC battery charger, 3000W inverter, Victron LYN060102000 Lynx Distributor, SmartSolar MPPT 100/50 Solar Charge Controller, BMV-712 Battery Monitor with Battery Temperature Sensor and blue sea ST Blade Split Bus Fuse Block and SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block.
This is the direction I'd point you.
This wiring kit: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/complete-wiring-kits/wiring-diagram-kits/400-1200ah-multiplus-3k-12v-orion-12-12-30-wiring-diagram-kit/
Plus this solar charging kit: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/400w-solar-charging-wiring-kit-2x-200w-24v-battery-bank/
You'll have to return/exchange a few parts you've got going on (60A DC DC Charger, and the 3000w inverter if it's not the Victron Muultiplus), but it's pretty close.
Thanks so much for your help. Is there a reason I can’t use my renogy 3000w inverter and renogy 60A dc to dc charger? The reason I got such a big one is in case I wanted to add more solar or batteries. My van has a 100 amp battery and 220 amp alternator.
Thanks again for your help.
@@MelanieMiller-dz5jl You can absolutely use those. I just don't have a wiring kit available for those specific components.
Thank you Nate- any link for the correct 4.0 wire for a battery bank? Looked in explorist store- none there :(
shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/component-wiring-kits/battery-bank-wiring-kit/
hey nate you do amazing work, i appreciate it all. question: how would you choose to power 12v loads from 24v battery bank/inverter/charger? not sure what the proper amperage is to run a 30amp rv
For that, I'd leave the OEM batteries in place and then use a Victron Orion charger between the lynx distributor and the OEM battery bank to keep the OEM 12V system charged.
If you need a 3000w or smaller inverter, I'd recommend just sticking with a 12V battery bank, though like I've got in this diagram here: www.explorist.life/30a-camper-inverter-with-solar-and-alternator-charging-wiring-diagram/
After studying DC systems for a few months, I went to BattleBorn Battery and purchased all of my system components. What they recommended was all based on a system diagram from your company. They graciously walked me through every inch of it, answered every question I asked and provided hand holding where necessary. Great company! However, they did not say anything about me using the 3000 watt Victron Inverter with 200 amp hours of BB Lithium batteries; all of which was purchased from them on a single order. Is this dangerous in the long term? This system has been installed and running for 2 years without any hiccups. Thoughts?
If it has been working...it should be fine. It's just hit or miss on if less than 400ah of battery bank capacity will support the inrush current of the capacitors on system startup of the Multiplus 3k.
Hey Nate, we used your renogy wiring diagram and followed it well even using a lot of the links your provided. We’ve been using the system for over 3 months and everytime our 400 amp hours of lithium battery gets to 50% all power shuts off. We’ve done diagnostic calls with renogy and can’t figure it out. Do you know why this would be happening?
Sounds like a settings issue. Make sure your BMV-712 'charged voltage' is set up to be .2V lower than all of your chargers 'absorption voltage' and that your battery bank amp hours is set to 400Ah in the BMV settings. If those two settings are 'off', your BMV may be miscalculating the state of charge. Once you make sure those are set up properly, if you're still having issues, that's going to be a Renogy issue which I unfortunately have to send you back to them for. They have pretty terrible customer support most of the time, but I'm pretty handcuffed with what I can do there.
HI Nate. Another great video with some great info. Question - I have a 12V 300Ah battery from Enduro. I'm looking to power it with a MultiPlus C 12/2000/80-50 120V. Do you have a wiring diagram that you would recommend for this build? I did a power audit and established I should be fine with 300 Ah (just a weekend rig no AC, small DC fridge etc.). It would be amazing if you were to do a video on a smaller power build using one of the 270 Ah batteries from BB.
Great video. I was just nodding along until you got to the bit about solar panel voltage. I was about to do that. I wonder if you would answer a question for me. I have an existing camper that was supplied with two solar panels (Hub Solar HS200-36M) with a Vmpp of 20.5V, and a PWM controller. The weird thing is that the panels are sloped away from each other so they'll never see the same sun angle. I was thinking of replacing the controller with two MPPTs, one for each panel, but it sounds like this won't work well because I'll rarely have enough voltage to charge the 12V batteries. Do you have any suggestions?
For panels of that low voltage stay with PWM controllers. Use 2 and parallel them together. Amps will add up. MPPT s typically need more voltage to work.
Hey Nate, Will other brands of solar chargers work with the Victron Lynx Distributor? Thanks
Yes. The Lynx Distributor is just 2 busbars and 4x fuse holders. It's not a communication device or anything.
Have you ever thought about using a bluetti as the power source? I see they have a lot of options, seems to me it would be a great option, because of its portability and charging options .
Those portable power units are great for a 'chuck it in the truck and go' kind of thing. We have a Jackery for weekend tent camping like that. I don't like them for a permanently built in system though as they are generally too restrictive.
I don’t even know what you mean by the 12V connection to a 24V converter? Of course I don’t know anything about my electric system anyway but I’m really trying to! lol
Great informative video. Thanks for All your knowledge.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
I was part way into paying someone to design a system for my sailboat. The problem was that he wanted me to figure out what I needed based on what the loads are. We have 15yr old AGMs and want a new AGM starting and a lithium house bank. Our diesel is small and I don't want to overload it with a big alternator. We have a 70A Balmar externally regulated. I found a TH-cam channel that shared the system diagram with wire sizes and fuses all Victron. It's SV Tritea's system. As you said, no need to reinvent the wheel. I didn't know that you sold complete systems. I bought everything already except the new AGM. Thinking about the Optima D34M but it is kinda pricey. Any ideas?
We don't deal with AGMs much, so I can't speak much for the quality of various AGM manufacturers.
Can you use an Anderson connector/ plug to connect an auxiliary/ suitcase solar array? I can’t find a high end connector/ plug.
That's fine as long as the array voltage/amperage is below the max voltage/amperage of the anderson connector. I prefer something like shown in this video, though, that we installed for our ground deploy solar array: th-cam.com/video/E5q7_4FH4LQ/w-d-xo.html
@@EXPLORISTlife Do you sell them in your store? I can't find it...
Hi,
What's the thickness and with of Victron copper strip?
Thanks
Our Lynx Adapters? They are .25" x .75"
@@EXPLORISTlife just realised the auto correction messed up my question.
What I meant to ask was, whats thickness and width on original victron bus bar
I don't know. Never have needed to measure that. They are rated for 1,000A though.
@@EXPLORISTlife ok thanks just thought the copper adapter looked much smaller in width, not sure of the thickness, compared to the victron, will it handle the same 1000A current.
Ah, no. They are the same size as 4/0 wire, which is sized for the largest wire we would ever connect to the Lynx Distributor in any of our designs.
Thanks so much for all your videos Nate. I have an 87 Vanagon Westy. It currently has a cheap battery solenoid, a 50 ah house batt. I need a plan that fits in the smaller needs and smaller space of that vehicle. I do have one 200ah lithium battery for this project. In looking through your plans it seems that even in the smaller systems you recommend tge MultiPlus inverter chargers. They’re fairly large. Do you have clients that have put those in Vanagons? I’d appreciate any thoughts you might have on using or adapting one of your plans for a Vanagon install. Looking forward to working with you and/or your plans and kits on this.
Yep! Seen that one used in a small system. A multiplus 2k will be smaller than an Inverter plus a charger plus a transfer switch with all the wiring and fusing.
I have a pwm charge controller that came on my rv with 400 w of solar on the roof. I would like to go with a mppt charge controller do I have to change the existing wiring size. Thank You
Probably not. Shop.explorist.life
I am having trouble finding victron 48v mega fuses under 125A for the lynx distributor here in New Zealand. I have 2x 45A victron mppt wired into a lynx distributor, but in the 48v range i can't find a fuse lower than 125A. Does anyone know if they exist from Victron or do i have to go to another brand?
Do you ever use copper clad aluminum wire?
Nope. Pure copper or tinned copper (for corrosive environments) only. copper clad aluminum has a whole different set of amperages that are lower per wire size with, often, inferior insulation. It's simply a lower quality product.
Is it okay to use bigger than needed wire? I had a long run where I needed a bigger gauge, and instead of using a bigger gauge for only that one specific run, I just used it for everything 12v. I know I spent more money than needed but figured it would be okay.
Most of the time it's fine given that the wire can fit into the terminal of whatever is being connected.
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you for the response!
Can I add 2 lithium 100-amp batteries in place of my lead acid. my converter has a switch. Do I need to change wires or anything else? I do not want to do a big rewire of trailer.
If your converter is set up to charge Lithium and everything else is good to go for Lithium, yes. You'll want to dive into learning about you system. I can't say for 100% sure that it will work based on the minimal amount I know about your system.
to add up on the #2 . those who want to make a system where they have for example a grid connection to, like a shed in their garden already wired to their home electrics and want to design a setup to charge their lawnmower battery only to "save money". Essentially spending $500 bucks on some kit to charge a battery that uses about 10 cents of electricity a year at the moment.
Nate. Really like your web and vids. You mentioned too low voltage from solar array not charging the batteries but what about too low array wattage to charge a battery. Because of fund limitations I can only afford a 800 watt array to charge a 600ah battery bank. I know I should have a 1800watt array but can’t afford it now. Will it work?
It may not charge all the way to 100% depending on how much of those 600Ah you are using every day and you'll need to supplement with a generator/alternator/etc
@@EXPLORISTlifethanks I’ll be adding 400 more watts soon. Will the Victron 150/100 mppt handle more than 1200w in case I want 1600watta. I will be using your1200w diagram system to guide me
Check this out (paying special attention to the 'NOTE' in the product description): shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/1600w-solar-charging-wiring-kit-8x-200w-12v-battery-bank/
Hey guys, hope your' season is going well. What heater option did you go with? Webasto diesel heater? Propane? Water heater? Is weboost really worth its price $$$? I'm in truck and trailer and would be great to meet up if you're still doing road gigs? Or camp meet
We haven't installed our heater just yet, but will be going with espar/webasto gas heater (can't remember which with my 6:30am-half-cup-of-coffee brain. 😂)
I installed the Rixen system in my truck build, I’m a carpenter and I have it set to 50° to keep tools warm and when camping in truck just turn it up. I bought it in Sandy OR because I happened to be working in Hood River at the time. Was a bit pricey but has worked flawlessly and the guys there were so helpful with any questions I had. Being in the mountains it also has a built in altimeter so it adjusts with elevation change. Also I bought the hot water kit and the engine kit so I can have free heat while driving!
Nate, greatly enjoyed the video. Earlier this year, you guys helped me out with the layout details for my set up. It's been running smoothly for months , util this weekend. This past Friday, we had a catastrophic failure in my Multiplus, loud pops and white smoke. This happened for no apparent reason. The RV had been sitting in the storage lot for over a week. I came back and discovered a fault on the MPPT. I went through the trouble shooting and upon re energizing , the smoke.
I am in contact with Victron and the distributors; however, I still have no clue as to why or how this happens. What do you do when ALL the protocols and proper techniques are followed and you still have this kind of failure?
Sorry to hear that
Ant access your shop mate. All i get are t shirts. Tried a couple of links but no go.
shop.explorist.life
I ordered diy "battery box" with some cables in, added a solar charger. Once I started reading up I realized I could have just bought a empty box as I had to replace all cables and fuses, and had to add a bus bar, and then replace the useless usb charging ports as well... I did not have a plan and just started buying lol
Hey Nate I actually bought a very expensive bundle from victron for a for transit. Any chance I can get help with a wiring diagram? It’s all bran new best of the best, 3x 330ah batts, all victron components, and 2nd alternator kit. Cost over 15k so far, and there’s a few things are finding some conflicting information on and the absolute last thing I wanna do is screw it up
I’m def buy all the wire and lugs from you also. I didn’t realize the bundle I bought doesn’t come with any
You'll want to get a diagram from whomever you decided to do business with on those components. Then for wiring, you can browse our wiring kits to see what we have that will work for you.
@@EXPLORISTlife I understand I bought it from, vanlifeoutfitters, they seem to want to be helpful but I like your content and explanations much better. Some of the stuff I have here you don’t have a tutorial on yet as far as I can see but I’m still hopeful. I guess my biggest question was they appear to be running the battery positives all the way back to the links distributor for each battery rather than daisychain them together essentially providing fused power for each and I wasn’t sure if they were doing that just so I had to purchase two links distributors lol but thank you very much for responding
@maddhatter8 Yeah, that's not what I recommend since it requires more wiring/fusing/components/space. Glad you find our content helpful, though! Would love to have you as a customer next time for your whole system so we can help you from the start! There's too many other dealers/distributors out there who are only interested in selling the components but offer no help on how to wire it all together. I hate that you didn't find us sooner. 😪
@@EXPLORISTlife me too :(
Do you ship to Australia? If not, do you have any referral partners based in Australia?
We do indeed ship to Aus!
Hi I would like to know if I can put a 100 ah battery with a 200ah. To give me 300ah or will it not work
Nope
Nate-- ty for this video! Is the Victron 12V 3K inverter + GC3 270AH battery pair a big problem? I purchased my "kit" over the phone with Battleborn including those components. Everything else matches your wiring diagram in my set up. I had at least two conversations with Battleborn by phone to put my kit together and they never once mentioned the minimum AH for the inverter which seems like an obvious thing to let a customer know -- I didn't notice it in the manual until recently. I have everything wired up except the inverter to AC panel. Working on that currently. Now I have to buy another $2500 battery? Hmm.
Tough to say at this time. 3x100Ah Battle Born Batteries has issues pretty often, but I don't have enough data on the 270Ah batteries to know if their BMS handles the inrush current differently.
I placed an order last week with battle born for the Victron multiplus II 12V 3K 2x120 along with three 100 amps batteries and some more stuff but they never mentioned that issue… 😖 and my small rooftop it’s maxed out at only 400 watts of solar power… ☹️
Good morning I just traded coaches and want to know if two different battery system can both be incorporated in the coach. The coach has a Lifeline AGM GPL - 8DL 255Ah battery, Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 inverter/charger & a solar panel 200+/- Watts. I have 4 Battle Born 100Ah batteries, Go Power IC 3000 inverter/charger & a portable 200W solar panel and misc. components. These were all remover from my trade-in. Thank You for all the info. you provide.
Hey Nate, great video! One question on the "reading the manual" part. You say people have complained that their system turns off when they have 300 amp hours of batteries with a 3kVa inverter. What exactly was their problem do you know? I'm using a 220v 3kVa (2600 watts) inverter as I'm Europe, and my system is planned to have 300 amp batteries, but at the moment I'm with a 100 amps. I have been using the system for 1 year with 0 problems, the one thing I have done is limit the AC output from the inverter so I do not exceed 1C that the battery is capable of (1200 watts). I don't see any other issues that might be a problem with having a smaller batter bank, maybe the peak power of 5500 W that the inverter is rated? If you are using products that do not exceed 2600 watts the inverter is rated to, the batteries at 300 amps have a 3600 watts for output, so that will not be a problem for the batteries, and if you put a 300 amps fuse, the only with the peak power of 5500 watts that will happen will blow the ANL, which will be a appliance failure. Can you give some thought on that if I'm mistaken? Thank you!!
The issue lies in the inrush current of the multiplus 3k capacitors drawing so much power for a few milliseconds at startup that it shuts the BMS of the batteries down because it sees it as a short.
@EXPLORISTlife so is the answer to this issue more battery power?
Yes
Tip 1. Oversize everything. Tip 2. Use components that you can add onto to grow the system. Tip 3. You will want a larger system than you think. Tip 4. Realize alot of sellers want to sell you as much stuff as they can so do your homework on the components you buy so you dont end up buying a larger inverter and have parts sitting on a shelf or trying to sell your to small of stuff that didnt work out.
Yes
Help ! 2021 Grand Design Reflection 5th-wheel came with a cheap, flooded battery. I upgraded to a 206aH SOK lithium battery only to find that the OEM WFCO converter was not lithium compatible. So, upgraded the converter to a WFCO 8955-AD (auto detect). It lasted about three weeks before it overheated to the point of the transformer coil coating melting off (nasty odor).
Returned it, thinking the converter was defective. In the meantime, ordered and installed a PowerMax PM3 series, which was cheaper and easier to set up. It lasted 2-1/2 weeks before melting down as well. Any ideas? The converter replacement is very basic, so apparently not the issue. I am clueless at this point. I just finished a month long stay at an RV repair shop for slide motor replacement. When the first converter failed while at the shop, their electrical person was clueless (under-skilled) as well. Help ! PS; have a second SOK 206aH battery, but not yet integrated.
If you've burned up two converters in a row, I'd suspect there is something wired wrong. Converters can fail, but two of them back to back? I'd be triple checking all connections and making sure everything is connected properly. Reach out to tech support of your converter if needed.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you! I pulled the distribution panel out and traced the wiring back to converter. Found a worn spot where the hot had been rubbing against a screw. I insulated the area, properly secured the wiring (which the factory had not). Will be installing another replacement converter tomorrow, but pretty sure this was the issue.
Thanks Nate! Always great content. Can’t wait to order my wirering kit from you. Im still learning and planning but Im getting closer to that step. :-)
Welp, I am guilty of not reading the manual. Bought a renogy 2000W inverter and one 100Ah 12V battery. I guess the minimum capacity for their 2000W inverter is two 100Ah batteries. Kinda sucks. I was getting the 2000W inverter so I had headroom for extra loads later. Another battery right now is outside of this DIY budget of mine.
Yeah, that's rough. 😣
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you for this video though! luckily I saw this video before I started wiring everything together! And luckily Amazon makes returns easy! Haha gotta order the 1000W inverter now 😅
I wanted to see the picture and story on the melted Lynx from your Facebook ad :)
'Professional Installer' put a washer between the lug and fuse on the wire going to the Inverter which caused an immense amount of resistance -> heat -> smoldering which almost caught on fire.
@@EXPLORISTlife Well, that would do that.
There was a post a few weeks back asking why they melted a lynx connection.... washers on the wrong side.
@@MyGoogleTH-cam Yeah, washers between electrical connections are a HUGE problem as well.
@@EXPLORISTlife It seems like when one mistake is made, many are made. In repair projects at our shop we see loose wires, incorrect wires, incorrect components, washers between connections... It's almost impressive how confidently incorrect some can be. Icing on the cake is burying all that work so it can't be seen. The people that most need to see this video I fear aren't doing enough homework to find your fantastic resources.
'Confidently Incorrect' is my new go-to passive aggressive phrase. 😂🤣