DIY Camper Van Electrical System | Comprehensive Start to Finish Install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มิ.ย. 2024
- Learn how to build your own DIY camper van electrical system in this start to finish tutorial!
Full wiring diagram and link to all parts available here: www.mosermakes.com/articles/c...
Correction: the Renogy combined charger can do voltage sensing for traditional alternators (but it is best to use the ignition signal when connecting to smart alternators in newer vehicles).
↓ Links below to tools used in the install ↓
Large Wire Cutters (up to 4/0 AWG): amzn.to/4batYK1
Smaller Wire Cutters (up to 8 AWG): amzn.to/3wrohZ2
Lug Crimper (10 - 4/0 AWG and larger): amzn.to/3wrndo0
Single Crimp Tool (8-22 AWG): amzn.to/3WzbiiG
Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper: amzn.to/4bx3GSb
Ferrule Crimping tool (28-7 AWG): amzn.to/3Ux7qMv
Large Ferrule Crimper (8-2 AWG): amzn.to/4bygBmV
Heat Gun: amzn.to/3JPUg8m
Torque Wrench: amzn.to/4btF0db
Mounting Zip Ties: amzn.to/4b6FKoF
↑ Links are Amazon affiliate links 👍↑
Sections:
00:00 Intro
01:02 Frame
01:42 Battery bank
06:33 Solar and alternator charger
10:42 Inverter charger
14:19 Distribution panel
17:20 Moving into van
19:30 Alternator charger connections
21:20 Distribution panel completion
23:57 Testing the system
#vanlife #offgrid #electrical - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Nice work Sam!
Fantastic build and guide!
Thank you kindly!
Omg I need so much help with my electrical system in my van! It was already installed by previous owner and now I have no idea what to do to get it organized properly
Maybe the best campervan electrical tutorial I have seen. You've made it beautifully simple thanks!
Thanks! happy to hear that
That's pretty impressive!!
That particular renogy dc-dc unit is actually voltage sensing - no ignition wire needed as long as you aren't connecting to a smart alternator.
Hey good catch! I missed that the Renogy unit includes the voltage sensing for traditional relays. This install was in a newer transit which does have a smart alternator and needs the ignition signal.
The Victron units seem to have a leg up here as in their configuration settings you can choose the alternator type (smart or traditional) and fine-tune the voltage sense settings. But I think this renogy unit is really great for combing both solar and alt charging features in one fairly compact package.
@@MoserMakes I really wish Renogy offered this unit with a higher voltage capability on the mppt. The 25v limit prevents wiring in series, which is a bummer. It's the only thing stopping me from using them. The new Orion 50amp dc-dc looks great, hoping they put out an isolated version soon.
Great stuff thanks but why the complication of 3 x 100 Ahr batteries & not just 1 x 300 Ahr?
A single 300 Ah battery could work as well. If doing one larger battery you do need to double check the max discharge current rating and if it can handle your largest loads. Often the max discharge current of a single large battery is less than that of multiple smaller ones in parallel.
I noticed in the video you used SOK batteries but on your wiring diagram and component list, you listed battle born. Which SOK batteries are these. Thanks
These are the SOK 12V 100Ah (I’ll add link below). Any similar 12V LiFePO4 battery could be swapped in.
www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/sok-100ah-12v-lifepo4-deep-cycle-battery
What size system would you recommend going from 12v to 24v. Love all your content. So much attention to detail. Which state are you located?
That's a good questions! I actually considered doing a 24V on the last full conversion I did (the promaster) mainly because I wanted to try one but it ended up not making sense to. With 24V you can reduce the size of the wiring since higher voltage means lower current at the same power. 24V is good if you have long runs of wire or multiple large DC appliances (air conditioner, etc) which you can buy in 24V versions rather than 12V versions. The problem is that a lot of camper components only come in 12V, so you usually end up also needing a 24V to 12V converter to power those things (or have it power a separate 12V fuse panel).
@@MoserMakes which state are you located?
@@ireloaded9 I'm in central Texas
@@MoserMakesdang! Austin by chance? I’m moving back to Austin this summer and praying my van makes the trip! Haha!
@@chartmann43 I'm not too far from Austin. If you need some help sorting out the electrical in your van send me an email at mosermakes@gmail.com
Great, now when I get near the electrical section at the hardware store I'm going to be afraid of feral (ferrule) wires!
hahah! Another van builder I know used to joke that ferrules should be called wire un-ferals since they tame the wire strands haha
Yeah, this out does all of them.
Thank you!
Am I reading the torque numbers correctly? 10:38 for example. 21 newton meters seems reasonable, but 186 foot pounds is enormous. Also, these aren’t equivalent so either I’m reading it wrong or a scaling factor is incorrect in your conversion.
Edit: the capital “I” in the font looked like lowercase “l” to me and I didn’t read the rest. Inch pounds. 😂 makes much more sense!!
Yep the second number is in-lbs!
3 batty's parallel but you didn't fuse them in between each? Man... I spent a lot on 3x victron power ins if I didn't need to!
It doesn't hurt to fuse each one individually (and definitely adds some extra protection) but it's also acceptable (and fairly common in campers) to fuse the whole parallel group at one point.
@@MoserMakesI guess that's the BMS job at the end of the day isn't it
The more connectors the more chance of bad connection's