WOW!!!! I have been looking at harnesses. I didn't know all of that. I am swapping a l94 turned Ls3( truck Intake). Ls3/6L90 in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor.
Excellent video. There are so many different versions of this harness for sale from so many different sellers it'll make your head spin trying to find what you need, especially if you want plug and play. Personally I will always spring for the cheapest harness possible and modify it a bit. As long as the pcm connectors are correct you can pretty much make anything work. I have a 2001 5.3 swapped in an s10. I used the cheapest harness i could find, which was advertised as "LS1 4l60e". I have a manual transmission and just simply taped the transmission connectors into a bundle on top of the transmission. I could have depinned them or cut them, but there was no need to and the connectors are there if i ever need them. The only things that I needed to modify for my application was lengthen the 5 wire MAF connector (funny, it was advertised as an LS1 harness), lengthen the o2 sensor connectors, and lengthen the crank sensor connector. I also used EV1 to Multech adapters for the injectors, but you could just as easily cut off some multech connectors from the junkyard and splice them into the harness. I can see how quality control could potentially be an issue on these, but the actual materials used are just fine for the intended purpose. Cant tell you how many times I've heard people say they are a fire hazard and not designed to cope with temperatures under the hood. This simply isn't true. While I will say the quality of OEM wire is definitely higher, as well as the loom, it's not enough to always justify the extra time and effort involved with modifying a crusty old harness.
Yeah I haven't seen any that I'd conciser unsafe. Sure it's not GXL, TXL or SXL wire, but it's also not CCA (which would be unsafe). On higher end builds I always use PSI harnesses, since they're actually made with the right wire.
Serious info drop, thank you so much for this...the mess of wrong harnesses on ebay is astonishing. I been looking for one on my 90 obs(02' L59/5spd/DBC)and its jut crazy trying for find red/blue-ev6-man trans-5 wire 😮💨
I'm going with a factory harness off of my donor Silverado. That way I know everything will be right. I'm aware that I will have to do a couple modifications for it to work properly in a swap. Best part is that it's free and I already have it.
And when you order your ebay harness it comes with a different diagram that does not match 100% to the harness you received. And when you contact the seller they cant answer your question.
I recently just purchased 2 harnesses off of Ebay both 4l60 and 4l80 models. They both came with all the correct connection. For the injectors it came with adapters. Working properly at the moment IJS. Those pictures are just for reference or maybe I got lucky
I have a 5.3 Vortec that came out of a 2007 Suburban, but everything is 1997-2006 for the standalone harness. Are the 2006 wiring harness the same as the 2007 harness? If so, could I purchase an already tuned ECM as well since I have to delete my Dod? Please help, your video is on beast mode right now, but I'm confused on what I need to get because I don't have the original ECM and wiring harness. I want to go DBC instead of DBW, and I have a TH350 transmission. Thank you in advance.
If you have a 2007 DoD engine, it's a gen4 engine. The earlier gen3 wiring and computer won't work without some engine modifications and/or a reluctor converter box. It's a whole lot cheaper and easier to either use the gen4 E38 computer, or buy a gen3 engine.
Can’t find a harness for my LQ4 needs blue/ red connectors, multi fuel inj connectors, 5 wire ,and 4L80. Messaged multiple sellers on Amazon and eBay. No help. Have you seen one? Can you help? Thanks
Good information, except the explanation of the MAF sensor is inaccurate. It IS 100% correct from a compatibility standpoint. Just not the specifics. The 5 wire has an IAT (intake air temp) sensor built into the MAF sensor housing. The 3 wire has a separate IAT sensor. The sensor is easy enough to add. But the difference shown in the tune file is due to the MAF housing diameter being different between the vehicles. The actual sensors are functionally the same for many GM vehicles of tbe LS engine family. It is NOT operating on a different voltage range as stated. The calibration is different due to airflow differences. It is an interpretation. The sensor samples only a small part of the total air volume. The frequency calibration is how the total air volume is computed. Example: If you only increase the size of the MAF housing, the sensor has no idea extra air is flowing by. Because it only measures a small area of the total cross section and the calibration hasn't changed. The frequency calibration would need to be changed via tuning in order for the PCM to determine the correct total airflow. The LS1 had a 75mm vs trucks having 85mm inside diameter MAF housing That is already a 13% difference in airflow if the air is moving at the same speed past the sensor. The PCM will see a lean condition and attempt to adjust for the airflow change without actually measuring a change in airflow. It will see the difference coming out of the engine via the O2 sensors. Just like havkng a vacuum leak, it will use O2 readings to adjust fuel trim. If the amount of compensation exceeds a preset threshold, it will cause correlation codes for MAF, MAP, & RICH/LEAN conditions. This is why genuine performance intake tubes require proper tuning or they will cause drivability issues and trouble codes. I hope this helps others understand some of the specifics and maybe help someone who's having issues with hardware/software compatibility.
True the total voltage range is 1.5-12v for both sensors. I just say it that way to make it easier for the average swapper to understand. At idle and running the trucks use a certain range within the voltage band and the cars use a different range within the voltage band. Neither engine uses the extremes of 1.5 or 12v, so their "operating voltage range" is different. The airflow volume is the real difference since the trucks are from 12.5-3600 and the cars are 18.4-3485. So I'll just call it "Operating Voltage Range" from meow on. The real issue I was addressing, is when someone buys a 3 wire MAF harness, plugs in a 3 wire car MAF, then buys a truck tuned PCM that has the 5 wire MAF settings and then they don't understand why the engine won't run and it's throwing MAF codes. Most people don't have or want tuning software to really go in and change the settings, they just want to buy parts that work. It's actually closer to a 28% difference in flow area between the two MAF's (PI r^2 those suckers).
I appreciate the visuals to go along...alot of videos on this topic but none quite like this one. This will be super helpful in buying my harness.
Glad it was helpful!
WOW!!!! I have been looking at harnesses. I didn't know all of that. I am swapping a l94 turned Ls3( truck Intake). Ls3/6L90 in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor.
I’m a Chinese learning it right now lol. All love brother
Excellent video. There are so many different versions of this harness for sale from so many different sellers it'll make your head spin trying to find what you need, especially if you want plug and play. Personally I will always spring for the cheapest harness possible and modify it a bit. As long as the pcm connectors are correct you can pretty much make anything work. I have a 2001 5.3 swapped in an s10. I used the cheapest harness i could find, which was advertised as "LS1 4l60e". I have a manual transmission and just simply taped the transmission connectors into a bundle on top of the transmission. I could have depinned them or cut them, but there was no need to and the connectors are there if i ever need them. The only things that I needed to modify for my application was lengthen the 5 wire MAF connector (funny, it was advertised as an LS1 harness), lengthen the o2 sensor connectors, and lengthen the crank sensor connector. I also used EV1 to Multech adapters for the injectors, but you could just as easily cut off some multech connectors from the junkyard and splice them into the harness. I can see how quality control could potentially be an issue on these, but the actual materials used are just fine for the intended purpose. Cant tell you how many times I've heard people say they are a fire hazard and not designed to cope with temperatures under the hood. This simply isn't true. While I will say the quality of OEM wire is definitely higher, as well as the loom, it's not enough to always justify the extra time and effort involved with modifying a crusty old harness.
Yeah I haven't seen any that I'd conciser unsafe. Sure it's not GXL, TXL or SXL wire, but it's also not CCA (which would be unsafe). On higher end builds I always use PSI harnesses, since they're actually made with the right wire.
thank you I am doing a 4.8 and 460le drive by cable into an 89 Formula - this was very helpful as I begin looking for the pcm and ecm.
Great info I wish i had seen this before I was in the boat I’m currently in
You are a wealth of information. Thank You.
You are very welcome
No hay nada en internet que explique mejor el tema!! muchísimas gracias por este video!!
Thanks for the video. I was noticing the problems myself and thought I was wrong. But I see I am right. Glad I have not purchased yet.
Very good video!
Thanks for sharing 👍
Always great information,thanks for sharing…
You bet
This info is gold, thank you 👍🏼😎
Serious info drop, thank you so much for this...the mess of wrong harnesses on ebay is astonishing. I been looking for one on my 90 obs(02' L59/5spd/DBC)and its jut crazy trying for find red/blue-ev6-man trans-5 wire 😮💨
Yeah it's pretty annoying trying to find a budget friendly option for that type of application.
I'm going with a factory harness off of my donor Silverado. That way I know everything will be right. I'm aware that I will have to do a couple modifications for it to work properly in a swap. Best part is that it's free and I already have it.
Good decision, factory harnesses are rock solid.
Great information!!
What about the oil pressure sensor connector.
And when you order your ebay harness it comes with a different diagram that does not match 100% to the harness you received. And when you contact the seller they cant answer your question.
I recently just purchased 2 harnesses off of Ebay both 4l60 and 4l80 models. They both came with all the correct connection. For the injectors it came with adapters. Working properly at the moment IJS. Those pictures are just for reference or maybe I got lucky
That's good to hear, the few I've bought always looked like the picture so I had to modify them, but it's been awhile since I bought a cheap one.
Link please!
This helped a lot thanks
I have a 5.3 Vortec that came out of a 2007 Suburban, but everything is 1997-2006 for the standalone harness. Are the 2006 wiring harness the same as the 2007 harness? If so, could I purchase an already tuned ECM as well since I have to delete my Dod? Please help, your video is on beast mode right now, but I'm confused on what I need to get because I don't have the original ECM and wiring harness. I want to go DBC instead of DBW, and I have a TH350 transmission. Thank you in advance.
If you have a 2007 DoD engine, it's a gen4 engine. The earlier gen3 wiring and computer won't work without some engine modifications and/or a reluctor converter box.
It's a whole lot cheaper and easier to either use the gen4 E38 computer, or buy a gen3 engine.
quick question is there a way to modify the harness to an iAC connection for DBC on a harness without the iAC?
Yep, you just need to add the wires to the harness.
@@wilsworkshop thx for getting back to me- any tutorial on that- or what is the process
Vortec is purely a marketing name. All of these engines are from the LS series.
Can’t find a harness for my LQ4 needs blue/ red connectors, multi fuel inj connectors, 5 wire ,and 4L80. Messaged multiple sellers on Amazon and eBay. No help. Have you seen one? Can you help? Thanks
Psiconversion.com should have one.
Good information, except the explanation of the MAF sensor is inaccurate. It IS 100% correct from a compatibility standpoint. Just not the specifics. The 5 wire has an IAT (intake air temp) sensor built into the MAF sensor housing. The 3 wire has a separate IAT sensor. The sensor is easy enough to add. But the difference shown in the tune file is due to the MAF housing diameter being different between the vehicles. The actual sensors are functionally the same for many GM vehicles of tbe LS engine family. It is NOT operating on a different voltage range as stated. The calibration is different due to airflow differences. It is an interpretation. The sensor samples only a small part of the total air volume. The frequency calibration is how the total air volume is computed.
Example: If you only increase the size of the MAF housing, the sensor has no idea extra air is flowing by. Because it only measures a small area of the total cross section and the calibration hasn't changed. The frequency calibration would need to be changed via tuning in order for the PCM to determine the correct total airflow. The LS1 had a 75mm vs trucks having 85mm inside diameter MAF housing That is already a 13% difference in airflow if the air is moving at the same speed past the sensor. The PCM will see a lean condition and attempt to adjust for the airflow change without actually measuring a change in airflow. It will see the difference coming out of the engine via the O2 sensors. Just like havkng a vacuum leak, it will use O2 readings to adjust fuel trim. If the amount of compensation exceeds a preset threshold, it will cause correlation codes for MAF, MAP, & RICH/LEAN conditions. This is why genuine performance intake tubes require proper tuning or they will cause drivability issues and trouble codes.
I hope this helps others understand some of the specifics and maybe help someone who's having issues with hardware/software compatibility.
True the total voltage range is 1.5-12v for both sensors. I just say it that way to make it easier for the average swapper to understand. At idle and running the trucks use a certain range within the voltage band and the cars use a different range within the voltage band. Neither engine uses the extremes of 1.5 or 12v, so their "operating voltage range" is different. The airflow volume is the real difference since the trucks are from 12.5-3600 and the cars are 18.4-3485. So I'll just call it "Operating Voltage Range" from meow on.
The real issue I was addressing, is when someone buys a 3 wire MAF harness, plugs in a 3 wire car MAF, then buys a truck tuned PCM that has the 5 wire MAF settings and then they don't understand why the engine won't run and it's throwing MAF codes. Most people don't have or want tuning software to really go in and change the settings, they just want to buy parts that work.
It's actually closer to a 28% difference in flow area between the two MAF's (PI r^2 those suckers).
I love being able to read the written info and still listen to the voice over, my brain can retain it all better so thank you! Subscribed.
Fuck… I bought the wrong harness
A lot of the time they use generic images and not specific. Even thought there ARE specifics on the pictures like all of the labeling. Stupid.