1. rotate cotter pin with needle nose pliers then pull. 2. hit ball joint nut with a wrench before you disassemble from the knuckle bud...much easier. or if you did it your way, you could have literally just stuck a screwdriver in the open hole where the bolt was just to zip off your ball joint nut...
Wow, you're really struggling with that cotter pin. Correct way to do it is to turn the wavy side to the top side and pull it out. Otherwise, it latches on to the castle nut like it is intended to. Think of it as a key and lock mechanism where you have to turn the key back to the upright position before you can pull it out.
What kind of symptoms did your car had? I have a es350 and I believe the ball joint is bad. I do see some grease around it and it’s popping when I have been parked and start to move away. Otherwise, it rarely ever makes any noise at all. But I can tell that something is lose and when going over bumps it feels rough. Before it was pretty tight. Mine only had 95k miles. But it’s a salvage title, therefore not sure what happened to it exactly. I already had to replace the radiator because it failed. It was a cheap Chinese part
yoyo Bored the customer complaint was loud banging over bumps coming from that corner. As you can see from the video there was also a lot of play in the ball joint
Already have to change out the lower ball joint? I just changed my 2011 Camry and i really didn’t need to change them. 159K. I guess quality has gone down.
Sir Sweetness This is my car. It was in a pretty bad curb accident a few months ago involving this wheel. We’re thinking the repair shop just overlooked this part.
Thanks for this video so much, answers so many questions for me. Having the same issue with my 2014 RWD GS fsport on all 4 wheels! Had the knocking issue initially on one of the front wheels at around 60000 miles. Didn’t know what was causing it at the time and dealer said everything was normal (as if they actually tried to diagnose it) ignored it till it progressively got worse and now at 110,000 miles knocking occurs on all 4 sides. Wanted to ask you, could bad control arm linkages cause the same type of knocking? If so how would one differentiate that from the ball joints? I was planning to swap the linkages and ball joints on all 4 sides but not sure if it’s necessary thanks again!
I can’t really answer your questions without looking at the car. Bad control arms will cause wondering of the car, misalignment and knocking over bumps or while steering. If you’re going to replace them replace them with oem Toyota/Lexus or higher level part.
Why didn’t you loosen that while it was still attached and then just hand thread it off?
1. rotate cotter pin with needle nose pliers then pull. 2. hit ball joint nut with a wrench before you disassemble from the knuckle bud...much easier. or if you did it your way, you could have literally just stuck a screwdriver in the open hole where the bolt was just to zip off your ball joint nut...
Have you ever try needle nose pliers to take out cutter pins?
I live in the rust belt. That needle nose pliers don’t cut it up here
I live in Minnesota… and we still use pliers here
Wow, you're really struggling with that cotter pin. Correct way to do it is to turn the wavy side to the top side and pull it out. Otherwise, it latches on to the castle nut like it is intended to. Think of it as a key and lock mechanism where you have to turn the key back to the upright position before you can pull it out.
First it was the cotter pin and now the ball joint lol I do t know if I should take this advise
An impact gun would really come in handy huh? Lol
What was sprinkled at the end?
do i have to take the rotor off
Would this apply to a 2007 lexus gs350 AWD?
I don’t think so. They are different platforms I believe
What kind of symptoms did your car had? I have a es350 and I believe the ball joint is bad. I do see some grease around it and it’s popping when I have been parked and start to move away. Otherwise, it rarely ever makes any noise at all. But I can tell that something is lose and when going over bumps it feels rough. Before it was pretty tight. Mine only had 95k miles. But it’s a salvage title, therefore not sure what happened to it exactly. I already had to replace the radiator because it failed. It was a cheap Chinese part
yoyo Bored the customer complaint was loud banging over bumps coming from that corner. As you can see from the video there was also a lot of play in the ball joint
Already have to change out the lower ball joint? I just changed my 2011 Camry and i really didn’t need to change them. 159K.
I guess quality has gone down.
Sir Sweetness This is my car. It was in a pretty bad curb accident a few months ago involving this wheel. We’re thinking the repair shop just overlooked this part.
FrederickGFX
Makes sense.
Thanks for this video so much, answers so many questions for me. Having the same issue with my 2014 RWD GS fsport on all 4 wheels! Had the knocking issue initially on one of the front wheels at around 60000 miles. Didn’t know what was causing it at the time and dealer said everything was normal (as if they actually tried to diagnose it) ignored it till it progressively got worse and now at 110,000 miles knocking occurs on all 4 sides. Wanted to ask you, could bad control arm linkages cause the same type of knocking? If so how would one differentiate that from the ball joints? I was planning to swap the linkages and ball joints on all 4 sides but not sure if it’s necessary thanks again!
I can’t really answer your questions without looking at the car. Bad control arms will cause wondering of the car, misalignment and knocking over bumps or while steering. If you’re going to replace them replace them with oem Toyota/Lexus or higher level part.