how do you find the durability of the mould sealer on composite moulds? also im having issues with print through on tooling pre preg moulds cured in autoclave at 120 degrees C at 5 bar. tried post curing at various temps up to 135, didnt work, im thinking maybe the stoichiometry of the tooling pre preg is not perfect. any insights would be greatly appreciated. thanks
Superb video! I have 2 rear panels for a supermoto I need to make, if I was to use the panels to make molds, and then make them out of carbon fibre, what sort of cost would I expect? They would only be 1 offs, trying to find a cost effective way to do it, and you seem to know what you’re doing!
I could use this for motorcycle side covers. However, could you pleas do a video on how to make a side cover and have the stems on it so that it attaches to the motorcycle? Thanks.
if you’re only making one time parts is it necessary to make the mold? if you just apply the release wax could you make the carbon straight from the original panel?
Erm not really. As the new piece would then be larger than the original, only be a few mm but may mean it doesn't fit. You could skin the part in the carbon though.
Hi, Great Work. Just one question, to match sharp undercuts/contours of the palstic part product should not we vacuum bag the galss mould ..? I don't think the galss mould have taken full precise shape of the object. Plz explain
I'd like to make a carbon fiber part for my SUV, but, it's perforated, and it has at least 12 attaching tabs on the back side. I don't even know if it's the best idea. Can you provide any recommendations? Your part looks great, and pretty easy to follow! I could buy a sacrificial part to cut/glue to the underside of the carbon fiber maybe?
Looks great that, I've making moulds and carbon parts for a long time, but just watching your vids has given me a few tips to improve things. I make my moulds with West System as find polyester resin fumes even with a respirator just make me ill. I mix blue tint and the white filler to thicken for the "gel coat". I just finished a mould recently for a new airbox I designed, used CAD, then 3d printed. Had to be 3 piece, but seeing in the other vid you did to avoid pinholes should help a lot. Looks like use rely on using gloves and finger pressure to work them out. Do you do that after the first layer then repeat on the others or just at the end? I usually use a heat gun to thin the resin and use the brush as you did to remove any excess! Anyway nice job! Cheers!
Thanks for the comment. 👍 Yeah a heat gun would of definitely helped me out. But yes the main thing is the finger rubbing Iv found. Pressing as firm as you can without the carbon moving, making sure not to miss any part of the carbon. I like to see it as I'm squeezing out as much resin as I can with my finger.
Thanks, Couple of reason I use it. - It's easier and faster than polishing the mould, just wipe the sealer on and drys glossy. - I found it gives a far better release of the part out of the mould time after time.
I have motorcycle parts that I want in carbon fiber. How can I get in contact with you so you can do it for me and how much you charge me. I am from Buffalo Ny.
Tricky little mould without the need for a split mould. Part 2 will show the lay up and triming of the part. 👌
Love your videos. Do you have an Instagram page?
كيف أتعلم هذه الحرفة!؟
شكرا لك
Very impressive work!! Good job
Great video! What was the purpose of the glass bubbles around the sharp corners? Haven't seen that before.
Yeah I just use it in sharp corners, it thickens the resin and avoids any bridging gaps when laying up
what is the ratio between resin and glass bubble?
@@CarbonWorkshops
Why do you add aluminum to the gel coat?
Hi, I saw the spectacular work you do, can I ask you what model the oven is? Thank you
how do you find the durability of the mould sealer on composite moulds? also im having issues with print through on tooling pre preg moulds cured in autoclave at 120 degrees C at 5 bar. tried post curing at various temps up to 135, didnt work, im thinking maybe the stoichiometry of the tooling pre preg is not perfect. any insights would be greatly appreciated. thanks
what is the reference of the gel coat you used at the beginning (blue)? Good videos
Superb video! I have 2 rear panels for a supermoto I need to make, if I was to use the panels to make molds, and then make them out of carbon fibre, what sort of cost would I expect? They would only be 1 offs, trying to find a cost effective way to do it, and you seem to know what you’re doing!
Hello. Is that white one Extrupor sheet or? Wondering in my project can extrupor live with styrene?
This is a real good video 👍
I could use this for motorcycle side covers. However, could you pleas do a video on how to make a side cover and have the stems on it so that it attaches to the motorcycle? Thanks.
if you’re only making one time parts is it necessary to make the mold? if you just apply the release wax could you make the carbon straight from the original panel?
Erm not really. As the new piece would then be larger than the original, only be a few mm but may mean it doesn't fit.
You could skin the part in the carbon though.
Hi, Great Work.
Just one question, to match sharp undercuts/contours of the palstic part product should not we vacuum bag the galss mould ..? I don't think the galss mould have taken full precise shape of the object.
Plz explain
Hi, the mould made is very accurate. And the part came out great. Part 2 will show the lay up.
Another good vid bud well done
I'd like to make a carbon fiber part for my SUV, but, it's perforated, and it has at least 12 attaching tabs on the back side. I don't even know if it's the best idea. Can you provide any recommendations? Your part looks great, and pretty easy to follow! I could buy a sacrificial part to cut/glue to the underside of the carbon fiber maybe?
Without seeing the parts it's hard to say. But the tabs on the back will be better to replicate after or bond the part into position
Looks great that, I've making moulds and carbon parts for a long time, but just watching your vids has given me a few tips to improve things. I make my moulds with West System as find polyester resin fumes even with a respirator just make me ill. I mix blue tint and the white filler to thicken for the "gel coat".
I just finished a mould recently for a new airbox I designed, used CAD, then 3d printed. Had to be 3 piece, but seeing in the other vid you did to avoid pinholes should help a lot. Looks like use rely on using gloves and finger pressure to work them out. Do you do that after the first layer then repeat on the others or just at the end?
I usually use a heat gun to thin the resin and use the brush as you did to remove any excess! Anyway nice job! Cheers!
Thanks for the comment. 👍
Yeah a heat gun would of definitely helped me out. But yes the main thing is the finger rubbing Iv found. Pressing as firm as you can without the carbon moving, making sure not to miss any part of the carbon. I like to see it as I'm squeezing out as much resin as I can with my finger.
What kind of clay is that sir? Sorry newbie here
Do you buff up the spray wax between coats?? I have just got myself some RW4 to experiment with
Iv tried both buffed and straight from the can. Not a huge difference by buffing it.
Great Work,
Whats the name of the blue polyester gel coat?
GC50 from easy composites?
Hi here is the link.
www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/polyester-gel-coat-b1837-wedge-wood
@@CarbonWorkshops thank you👍
Do you add the aluminium powder to the gel coat or is that part of it?
Yes to the Gel coat, to increase the temperature the gel coat can withstand
Hi mate, the white coupling coat you apply (with the glass beads), is it just white gel coat or is it a specific product?
Thank you.
It's like a powder that you mix with the Coupling coat, it thickens the resin into a paste
where are you located sir ?
Can this be done without heat curing?
With prepreg carbon fibre it needs the heat to cure. Other methods like infusion or hand layup can be cured at room temperature
What gelcoat you use?
Polyester gel coat. Link in the description
Lovely job bud, what's the purpose of the aluminium powder? Does it have any strength properties?
Thanks, it's to increase the temperature the gel coat can withstand. Recently made a video about it. 👍
What is the purpose of mold sealant? I have made a few molds and made some carbon fiber parts but never used sealant. Thanks! Good videos by the way!
Thanks, Couple of reason I use it.
- It's easier and faster than polishing the mould, just wipe the sealer on and drys glossy.
- I found it gives a far better release of the part out of the mould time after time.
@@CarbonWorkshops i was wondering if it helped with the polishing process. Thanks for the quick reply!
Che materiale è quello bianco per flange grazie
excellent video. thanks
What is that yellow putty stuff called?
Filleting wax
@@CarbonWorkshops Thanks!
What clearcoat are you using for carbon fiber?
Lechler 2000
@@CarbonWorkshops Nice. Great work - we make CF parts for motorcycles and I know that this requires high level of skills and precision :) Keep it up!
@@lukanemanic7507 Thank you! Appreciate it
Would love to see the part being made
Next video I will show lay up 😎
I have motorcycle parts that I want in carbon fiber. How can I get in contact with you so you can do it for me and how much you charge me. I am from Buffalo Ny.
Dommage qu'il n'ai pas plus d'explication.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
👌🏻
400
the yellow is playdoo