How to Make a Carbon Fiber Part - Disc Brake Cover for HONDA motorcycle
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ส.ค. 2022
- Hi, In this video I take you through the steps of how to make a HONDA motorcycle front disk brake guard/cover out of carbon fiber and Epoxy Resin using the Resin Infusion VARTM technique.
First step:
Getting everything ready to make the mould. I've started with an original part made out of PP, to make a good mould we'll need some flanges around the part. I've used some corrugated plastic flute board to close any gaps and create a flange. It's important to take good care here to make sure we have no undercut (meaning you couldn't remove the part due to geometry locking)
It's very important to close any gaps or bolt holes at this stage to make sure we can make a good mould. For the transition of the part to the flange I use some filleting wax and round them over with a ball end tool. Once the preparations are done we can proceed with the release film or coat. In my case I use the Chemical Easy Lease agent from @easycompositestv
Second step:
Making the mould at this point. I use the Uni-mould tooling system from Easy Composites here. It's a system where you have to go through 3 stages.
First stage is the Tooling Gelcoat (black layer) It is mixed with some MEKP catalyst to ensure a good curing 1-2% needs to be used here and mixed with the gelcoat. After around 8 hours the gelcoat should have cured enough for the next step. After the gelcoat stage we proceed with the coupling coat. The Coupling coat will ensure a good bond between the gelcoat and tooling resin. This time we also mix it with 1-2% MEKP catalyst. To create a stronger layer of the coupling coat, some layers of 100g Chopped strands fiberglass is used and applied in small patches all over the part. The final coat is the tooling resin, the tooling resin is a bit thicker and will create the strength of your mould. The resin is being applied with 4x layers of 400g chopped strand fiberglass pieces. After this is done you are done with the mould stage and can let it cure for preferably over 24h, the longer the better.
Third step:
Once the mould has fully cured, the sharp fiberglass edges are trimmed to size using an angular grinder. Make sure to wear proper personal protection with a dustmask. After that the mould can be sanded and polished if needed. Then 5 coats of Chemical Easy Lease agent is used again.
Now we are ready to put the dry carbon fiber layers into the mould. I'm using a 200g 3K Twill weave Carbon Fiber here. Try to be careful to make sure there is no bridging (parts where the carbon fiber cloth isn't fully in contact with the mould. This would create air pockets. Using the fusion FX spray tack I apply 2 more layers of carbonfiber to create a thickness of 0.6mm in total.
Normally we would then proceed with the peelply. But I tried something different here by just using a perforated film inbetween the carbonfiber and the infusion mesh. This saves me some time and material. The only downside is that the back of the part will have a less good finish than with peelply but in this case I didn't matter that much.
Now it's time for the vacuum bag with tack tape and infusion mesh followed by the resin lines and vacuum lines. while bagging the part some pleats are added to make sure the bag will conform nicely over the part and create an even pressure. Once full vacuum is reached (meaning we have zero leakage of pressure we can start mixing the resin.
I'm using the IN2 Epoxy resin from Easy Composites. This is a resin type that is thinner than a regular laminating epoxy. This helps with the resin flowing nice and quickly through the part.
After the VARTM resin infusion is done we can let the part cure.
Fourth step:
After curing for 48 hours the bag is removed and the infusion mesh. The part is demoulded and can be trimmed by using a dremel and my permagrit tools to create the good geometry of the part again. The holes can be drilled using a regular dril on low speed. After drilling the holes can be fine tuned by using some files. Some sanding is advised prior clear coating the part.
Main materials used:
www.easycomposites.eu/uni-mou...
www.easycomposites.eu/in2-epo...
For more of my projects make sure to follow me on:
Facebook: / mat2composites
Instagram: matthieu.libeert
twitter: @matthieutje65
web: www.mat2composites.com
#Carbon #motorcycle #epoxy - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I forgot just how much work it can take to make hard tooling, especially for such an intricate shape. Respect!
It isn't an easy part and takes time yes, but once the mould is done you are ready to go for multiple parts 😁
Great video for people that are working with polyester / vinylester resins! 👍🏻 I‘m a fan of epoxy, a bit harder to work with it but the moulds are tougher and some other benefits. Especially for our autoclave
True on more demanding moulds I use epoxy as well, mostly high temp resins then
Hemm.. I must have a learn to much from you bro... 👍👍
Thank U
as always great job such a useful video about how to do this thanks
So nice of you
Pretty cool! Specially because it didn't have to go to the oven!
finally, turned out great :)
haha thanks!
Super cool
Great work😊👍. I making molds for my 1996 Suzuki ts50x
Quality 👍👍
Thanks!
Beautiful carbon fiber
Thank you! Cheers!
loved the video.. Looking to create carbon fiber parts in place of chrome trim. windshield trim to be exact.
00:33 Great stuff!
Thanks!
Hello Matthieu! Great video, thank you so so much for taking the time to film! I have a question: How do you prevent from parts going yellow, if they are not painted? I have some parts I made, but they went from clear transparent to yellowish transparent.. Thanks!
Did you use a gelcoat? Here it's almost bare carbon on the surface so not a lot of resin that can yellow, otherwise depends on the brand of the resin system you are using.... Another solution is to use a 2k clearcoat with a uv blocker in
Hi Mat, really useful video! thank you. could you please advise what rotary tool you use to sand with the 200 grit? it has the 3M sticker on it...thanks
I like it
Thanks!
Awesome video! What product did you use to achieve the final “glossy” finish?
First of all I want to thank you for the vids . Then I want to ask you if you bake them or you let the epoxy to harden outside?
super
Thank you!
Great video Matthieu! Thank you. How much +- same part will be costs to customer? Mould and small series production(up to 20 pieces)
Hi, Thanks! Using this technique, these are pretty expensive parts...The mouldmaking is a big time-consumer as you might see in the video, specially if its just for one piece.
I think you would be at around €400/part which might be hard to get sold at this price, specially if you are looking on chinese websites offering them for a way lower price (lower quality as well obviously) . The problem is that most people take price as a more important thing than quality, making it hard to get these sold unless you are really looking for something specific or modded specially for your needs making it worth the price
Hi Matthieu i have question regarding your 3m pistol sander. Is it orbital sander or rotator ? Can you Sharm any link for it . Thanks
👍
I have ben nervous about doing a complex part like that but you gave confidence thanks. Could you do a aur intake tube if so can you show us how?
On your sanding table, what do you call the rubber part that is on top of the table? I've always been curious and really would like to have something similar for my sanding. Thanks!
I buy it at the hardware store, These are just rubber floor mats
Wish i could do that work.
Honest question, the exposure to high heat from the brakes is not an issue with the resin? Like bubbling? Saw bonnets with that issue, so I always stayed away from high heat applications, in fact I want to prepare an underbody for my e39 on carbon fiber and because of this reason I don't
good question! regular epoxy resins will be save till +/- 70°C if you need higher temp applications you could use a high temp resin that is save till 150°C but you'll need to make some adjustments to your mould (high temp gelcoat and resin) and postcure your part till higher temperatures for that. So far it's good for this application but different applications might need different resin systems
Could you please post something with hand layup? Things much easier to do without experience, which doesn't require buying expensive equipment.
Will do! thanks for your question
I noticed you used the wax to make a seal between the old part and the board. This fillet radius will show up in the mold and means that the finished part has a radiused edge and does not match exactly the original part. If you wanted to make a part with straight edges how would you make the mold?
The filleted edge is runoff. Extra material after the part edge that gets trimmed off after casting. The filleted edge is so the original part doesn’t get locked into the mold during the molding process
what kind of board are you using to set the part onto?
Can i ask 2 question:
1. How weight diffrent from plastic part to carbon part
2. How much (material) for carbon fiber part, include mould
When you put the first layer of carbon on the mold. Do you put like some grease or some on the mold so its easy to get the carbon out at the end or..
Yes a release agent is needed
Болгарка в кожухе и с ручкой,-нуба видно сразу.расскажи про разделительный спирт отдельно,какой дюзой накладываешь,сделай разделитель с сухого ПВА и т.д.тема очень тонкая и важная.
thanks for your comment, unfortunatly I don't speak your language :)
What year honda front cover was that for?
Can u show us how to make a mold and carbon fiber front lip a any car
Unfortunately not in my project list at the moment 🙂
just one thing dear mat you said you mixed one kg then followed with the second cup and it seems the second cup is as much as the first cup so I assume you are using 2kg of unimold resin then you said you used 400 gram of CSM this makes the resin to fiber ratio of one to five am I missing something in here? is this correct?
yes correct! good thinking! It's a bit different with the fiberglass - tooling resin than with other resins and fibers where you aim for a 50/50 ratio. You have to X5 the Chopped fiber to resin ratio here. It's pretty rich on resin in comparisson to fiber. But keep in mind that 5 Kg of resin will give you less litres of resin (meaning the density of the resin is higher as it is filled with all kind of materials, I dont know of :D) This to offer you stable moulds with less shrink.
Where can i buy this carbon fibre Part?Thank you
in a part like this there is no benefit in taking it to the oven?
The part got post cure into the oven at 60°C yes, this will ensure the part is stable till these temperatures at least
Hola buen día donde consigo todo el producto de resina para mi elaboración
Hi, sorry I don't speak spannish 🙂
@@MatthieuLibeert hello, good, where can I get all the resin product for carbon for my elaboration, I want to buy, would it be possible by this means?
Like
here's what I would love to do. I would love to make fairings for a motorcycle(that have the same style as a 2022 Ducati Panigale V4S), but I would want to create it for the 2022 Suzuki Hayabusa. I would want to create the side fairings only. If you look at the 2022 ducati Panigale V4S you will see that they resemble 'shark gills'. That's what I would want to create for the 2022 suzuki hayabusa. Mathieu, would you or anyone you know be able to create the carbon fibre fairings for such a project?
What cutter are you using at 7:50?
called "EC cutter" will be featured soon in a "Top 5 Tools for composites" video ;)
@@MatthieuLibeert Thanks so far I have bought few different carbon specific cutting and grinding tools, used them for something less demanding and those have been destroyed immediately from cutting wood or roofing material. Have carbon waiting but I destroyed my tools before.
гууд джоп
А почему углеволокно криво лежит на лицевом слое?
Brakes get very hot, not sure this is a good idea.
Depends on the resin matrix that is used. Our parts are made with prepreg & autoclave, and they can handle this temperature without any problems.
Should be ok for here, should be able to handle over 70°c, the guard isn't in direct contact with the brakes so heat gets removed quite quickly
Most Dirt Bikes run a disc guard.
@@MatthieuLibeert a brake rotor temperature varies from 200 degrees Celsius to 550 degrees Celsius, depending on how hard you're using it. Hopefully you don't have any issues with the air gap and airflow.
@@Specter0420 A dirt bike won't reach those temperatures for long enough to cause a problem. Look at brake shrouds for f1 cars. They're carbon
The finished look is pretty low quality, heavily distorted weave, sanded through fibers. Might as well make it out of fiberglass, if it is going to get painted. Pre-preg next time?
Like mentioned this is a B-grade Carbon fiber that is woven in a not so tight way than the more cosmetic fibers I otherwise use, went for ease instead of cosmetic. Did some parts in prepreg as well in the past but took me double the amount of time, resulting in a better finish but more expensive part. Went pretty hard on the sanding as it didn't matter that much, part will probably get painted. Correct, sanded through a few fibers but I'm not making parts for NASA or military here so shouldn't have to much of an impact on strength here. Sometimes you just need to find the right balance between effort and price for a part