I thought I was done with forged carbon fiber, but this video is excellent, and has inspired me to give it another go. Right after I finish this ham sandwich.
YESSS I came for this! :D I started 3D printing thanks to them and I loved to see that. It took me a while to understand he was bamboozling us, one year ago i wouldn't have noticed anything!
This is, by far, the best company advertising I've ever seen on TH-cam. Someday I hope to have our house and shop done so I can get this a try (I've done a lot of fiberglass work in the past). But, until then I still watch all your videos. These are awesome content.
Thank you very much. We wish you all the best getting your house and shop sorted and we'll be happy to supply you and hear about your projects when you get going.
I’m a student trying to make a fully carbon fibre rc airplane for a scholarship project. This companies infinite knowledge on carbon fibre has helped me beyond anything else on the internet. Thank you for sharing your superior insights.
Thanks. I hope it does 😃. This has actually become a process that we use quite a bit internally at Easy Composites as a great method of producing all manner of small moulded parts. The more it gets seen, the more people can add this process to their 'toolbox'!
@@easycompositestv Exactly! Just like carbon fiber skinning, forged carbon is something that is very much achievable by diy'ers at home, which makes it all the more interesting. Your videos are the reason why i now consider self made carbon fiber parts for my project cars, so thanks again :)
One thing I'd suggest is to use a deburring tool to remove the flashing. There is way less risk to cut yourself and damage the part with the sharp tip of the knife. They make them in all sorts of shapes and sizes and they are great for 3d prints, too.
Still blown away these videos are free! Thank you guys so much I made brake levers for my goldwing after the first video and now after this I feel like my excf might need some 🤔
Thanks for the comment! i'm still riding on the levers made in that last video, I would have normally broken 2 or 3 in that time, maybe just good luck but they have taken a good few drops!
Kit worked great, was a bit disappointed it came chucked in a plain box with no instructions, but knew from the YT Video and my own manufacturing experience what to do. great kit Just wish the presentation was better! Thanks for revisiting this super cool stuff
Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad the process worked for you. We originally intended the video tutorial to be the instructions (in our experience, this is the way most people prefer to learn) and as such this is always the focus of our attention but it's good feedback to know that you expected, and would have liked, printed instructions too. As it happens, we have started putting together a PDF instruction booklet which will be downloadable from the product page (not that you'll need that now!) but I'll discuss with the team whether adding a printed copy to the box is something we'll choose to do as well.
Thanks for the reply! Even just a qr code to the youtube video would be great! Not even a full pdf, just a welcome flyer with a qr code! Kit worked great though very happy! Top work guys keep it up thanks
I’m usually dumbfounded by some YT channels with high number subscribers, turning out poor quality, practically Usless and non educational content . This channel has got to be in the top 10 and dare I say it TOP channel for technical quality, video production, professionalism and manners to name a few . It puts the mainstream media including the BBC and many others to shame. You do genuinely deserve the views 👍🇬🇧.
I just took delivery of your cast kit the other day, shipped halfway across the world, inspired by the previous video on the motorcycle engine cover. Can't wait to get started with this.
What i love about these videos is you get a useful piece of information in every single sentence, none of this watching for half an hour just to get a single punch line 😅😅 every video makes me smarter! And not easy 😮 lol
We do spend a fair amount of time consciously trying to find the balance between being informative enough to get the technical knowledge across without it being an information dump. It sounds like we've managed to get it about right on this one so thanks for the feedback. 😃
I use this method to make components for my recumbent trikes. Cranks, suspension arms, etc. I'm glad more people are learning of these techniques from you! Most can't CNC aluminum at home, but with your methods they can get similar stiffness very easily.
Thanks for the comment, yeah it really is an engineering hack to get high performance parts without a big budget! Glad you've been making good use of it.
You guys.. these videos are so well thought out, jam packed with all the needed information and of the highest quality with the greatest attention to details. Already a customer, and I shall keep recommending easy composites. Keep up the fantastic work
That was one fast printer! Still waiting for that video on moldless construction with infusion over sacrificial 3D print. Also do a video on fasteners suitable for composite work and embedding metal parts into composites. Another problem I saw with anyone making videos on composites - almost nobody makes structural parts, its all hoods, covers, shells and the like, glad to see something different here.
Nobody makes structural parts because it's almost impossible to do on your garage😂😂 in Lamborghini we made the revuelto monocoque tub in forged, and it takes almost 8 years to develope, imagine in a normal garage without the right equipment😅.
This video is so fantastic for someone needing to understand the benefits AND how possible it can be to get started in this. Thanks for such an easy to understand and inspiring look into this. One day I want to build my own parts and this has made that day look closer.
Have you checked whether your kit has the long strand fibre in? - We did start adding it to the kits a bit early in preparation so it's worth checking. If you find you haven't and you have any future orders coming up, let us know and we'll include a pack of the long strand tow free of charge 😃.
So happy to see this video, I've been planning to try this method for FPV arms for a while, so seeing your approach is super helpful. This channel is an absolute gem!
I have had quite the success in following the last forged cf video, having made myself a set of thru axle rear dropouts for a bike frame. Thank you for encouragement, knowledge and inspiration to take on a new hobby, would never happen if not for this channel.
You guys know how to sell your products. You make such excellent, detailed videos that one can only appreciate the effort. I'm on the other side of the planet on a tiny rock but I am yet to find any company that comes remotely close to what you guys are doing and so you're getting some of my money as soon as I am ready to learn and do some composite work on my project car. Cheers.
Thanks for your kind words, they certainly make it work the time and effort that goes into them. Whilst you guys keep watching and enjoying them, we'll do our best to keep them coming. Feel free to get in touch when the time comes and you're ready to get stuck in.
Wonderful video! Will get my forged kit on the way ASAP. I have had a lot of requests from people asking to show mold creation and I always send them to your channel. So clear and concise!
These videos are (saying it again and yet again) so well done. They can really freshen up even a very bad day and make viewers, simply, want to go out there and build something.
Me and a buddy used the Easy Composites kit and instructions to make a clutch lever for a husqvarna 701 SM and it worked absolutely perfectly! it was so exciting seeing the part come out of the mold looking almost perfect !
Years ago I was obsessed with making carbon parts. Nowadays I realize I don’t really like doing it, I just enjoy watching this guys videos while he does it haha
Just when I thought your videos couldn’t get any better, you drop this one! Thank you so much for sharing your amazing knowledge with the world. I’m so looking forward to creating my own forged parts. I think I’ll start with my old school Kent 1600 Xflow Cosworth rocker cover for my mk1 escort. Then I’ll try an inlet manifold for twin DCOE Weber carburettors. Thanks again!!! 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀☮️☮️☮️
Hi Steve, nice to hear from you as always. Off the top of my head, I'm picturing the rocker cover being relatively large, by 'forged carbon' standards. If you do give it a go, it might be worth starting with something smaller; the forged process is easier and more reliable on small, solid components, although the flywheel cover we made in the first video was probably a bit closer in terms of shape and size. Let us know how you get on.
It's incredibly satisfying to read the comments on your vids. Everyone seems to genuinely positive. Also great advertising for your products. Whenever i see carbon fiber i think of you guys now.
Is there any virtue in offsetting the surfaces slightly more and building up a few layers of primer with an airbrush on order to improve the surface quality of the mould? Back when I worked in F1 we used TB650 and often that was pained post machining to improve the part quality. I can’t see how it wouldn’t help in this application…. I’m keen to get myself one of these kits and have a play. It’s brilliant that these kinds of technologies, coupled with the quality of consumer 3D printers these days, means that Joe Schmoe in his garage can knock out some decent quality carbon parts. The world truly is your lobster these days. Great vid as ever @easycomposites
Thanks for the comment, if you can find a coating that will bond to the print then absolutely you could improve the finish of the parts by finishing the moulds further, printing with a resin printer could also be a good option for improving the finish.
@@easycompositestv I have a resin printer so could give that a try, I wasn't sure that resin parts would be up to the job, but thanks for the pointer. Thinking about it, I could resin print patterns and then use something like TC80 to make the moulds from the patterns. Cheers
I like to think of 'forged carbon' as the oriented strand board (OSB) of composites. Some things you would never construct with it - but often it's strong enough for the job and really doesn't matter.
If you want to improve the strength of the drone arm even more with this method, you could have the long fibers added first and last, and using the chopped ones as a "core". Although it will be not as visually appealing as the chopped fibers. One solution for this is to add a very thin layer of chopped fibers, then half of the long ones, fill the mould with almost the rest of the chopped, and lastly the other half of the long fibers with some chopped ones over it for aesthetics.
The issue with this being that the long fibres are not able to 'flow' around the cavity and take the form of any surface detail which is present. The short strands on the other hand are far more manipulatable and can pick up this detail with far less risk of producing voids in the surface.
@@easycompositestv i have done this exact way about a month ago, by following your first video on forged carbon. after a few trials with molding, I came up with a 4 piece mold for drone arms almost like yours in this video. What a coincidence! After i saw this - got instant satisfaction that i was on a right track to make a successful mould. But i agree with previous comment - i ran long strands of tow as much as i could everywhere, and short strands around small features and on outside surface finish. it came out great!
Awesome, inspiring video as per usual! The 3D printer shot had me ready to put an axe to my Prusa printers there for a second til I realized some video wizardry was taking place lol!
thank you for another excellent video. especially for the extended cad on your website. you are like the titans of cnc of carbon composite but much cheaper to set up in your garage at home! 😄
3:44 That's quite a sound effect! I have a feeling whoever edited the video was not wearing headphones with good bass... Or was that a huge vehicle passing by the shop?
Maybe you've got better headphones! I'm checking it now and can't really hear anything, but we are on an industrial estate and operate a busy warehouse ourselves so a big truck is never out of the question!
I was just making a guide for forged carbon as my master thesis, I'm thorn between thinking this is bad timing or good timing, some points I make in my guide are reinforced in this video I guess. It will be open source, so when it is done, I'll be uploading it and hope to get some feedback.
Hi Brent, I'd love to read your thesis and give you some feedback when it's done, drop us an email whenever. Great choice of subject, there's a lot of untapped potential for it.
Bought the forged carbon and prepreg kit to get to know how carbon fiber parts are made. Well I've made like 3 parts for my motorcycle out of the forged carbon fiber, now looking to replace the TC80 with resin printed molds as i'm already familiar with 3d modelling and I can be lazier lmao. Thanks guys for bringing this knowledge with the kits to the general population :)
Thanks for watching, glad that you've been having success with the process, for sure printing the moulds is a faster route than casting with TC80, although the TC80 is more durable if you plan to make a batch.
@@easycompositestv Yea that was a concern of mine aswell. The tensile strength compared to the TC80(12-17MPa) is quite a bit weaker compared to the tensile strength of the e.g. Anycubic 2.0 Tough Resin wich is 58MPa). Sadly I couldnt find anything regarding the compressive strength but I will see how that translates into reallife use compared to the TC80. Will be alot cheaper aswell as im still in school scrapping by on pocket money :)
@@easycompositestv Yea okay, I had tensile strength and felxural strength / modulus mixed up. Yea the resin is quite a bit lower in the overall strength. Gonna see how that affects the moulds / if its even possible to create reiable moulds
I find this a blessing ! .. . The world is starting to shed the old guard ( 1%) ..... The peoples world is coming ... Companies like this will free us from big tech in many ways . Amazing products
It would be very interesting to see a further optimization of the carbon weave and structure, by 3D printing a central skeleton piece that can be strategically designed to allow weaving the strands around it, then placing more carbon on top and compressing it. I think it would allow for repeatable results, with less variables. Just a thought, could be way off.
Another GREAT video. One detail though, for the drone arm: you've got the long tow fibers going down the middle of the part. You needed to do that because they don't flow like the chopped tow, and you used chopped tow near the surfaces of the part to get better conformation to the mold. But this is a problem. That part is stressed in cantilever. The centerline of the part sees essentially no stress at all, which means your long tow fibers are right where they do the least good. I'm not suggesting you've made a mistake. Rather, I think there's a fundamental tension here in designing forged carbon fiber parts, that all of us are going to have to deal with. I'd really like to see you address that tension in the high-quality way that you've made all these videos. Various approaches I can imagine: * In your suspension part, you've got the axis of compression across the width of the beam. This makes it practical for you to push the long tow fibers towards the areas of maximum stress. Good solution. * You might load the drone arm first with long tow fibers, then chopped tow fibers, then finish with long tow fibers. I don't know how well this will conform to the mold. I'd also like to see a discussion of where the air bubbles go. How do you avoid voids in the finished part? My guess is that you are dissolving the air into the epoxy by applying pressure. Is that true, and does it determine some minimum pressure that is needed to get a good void-free part?
Thanks for the well considered questions, you are right that loading the long tows more centrally compromises their potential but was done to aid flow into the contours, during the fibre migration they actually end up being forced to the outside more, also these arms face some of the greatest stress in frontal impact (not the direction tested) where they will be working more effectively. That said I could have done more testing and experimentation with the loading on this part. With regard to the air entrapment, the pressure is primarily present during closure, once the tools bottom out the resin flows out until near equilibrium is approached, the air tends to escape very readily during closure as it is able to flow much more quickly to the low pressure regions (atmosphere) it very much depends on the part but a very low void content is typically achieved.
The main complaint I hear about carbon fibre is repetitive stress fractures. You should really do a CF vs FCF vs Aluminum test for strength after many many non-failure stresses. Like flexing it over and over.
You guys have the best marketing strategy on youtube! Do you have ideas for faster finishing of the parts? I was thinking maybe vibratory tumbling could do it?
A vibration tumber isn't something that we've tried but it's certainly worth giving it a go with a fine grit and it wouldn't need to go in for very long. You might find that it pitts the surface slightly or even breaks out the resin matrix and leaves fibres behind. It can't harm to give it a go though.
Would you not technically get better stiffness/strength if you put the chopped tow in the center and the long strands on the surface? Since the maximum stress is at the surface and the least in the center of a cross section.
Hi, good question... someone else just asked this below, maybe something we should have discussed in the video! As you've pointed out, the UD fibres would have more influence the further out they were. The reason is really a practicality of the forged carbon process. It's only the short strand fibres that are properly mobile and will 'flow' into the mould's surface detail reliably, which is why we opted for short strand on the surface and then the long strands could happily sit in the middle of the laminate. That said, this is a relatively new process even to us and it's quite possible that we could have put UD fibres closer to the outside faces of the component and still got good results. If you experiment with this yourself, please do share your experience and results.
Thanks for watching. The issue isn't just the temperature resistance but also wear rates and variation in thermal expansion compared to more traditional metallic materials.
This is a really great tutorial! I can't help but wonder how viable it would be to create a forged part with chopped up prepreg. Have you ever tried doing that? The 3D printed mold probably wouldn't work, but it seems like it would eliminate a lot of the mess and hassle of getting the resin in the mold.
A bonnet with a layer of short cut carbon fibers on the outside for optics and woven carbon fiber on the inside for strength would look simply out of this world.
I think about 75-85% of a part being long single direction strands. With the rest being a 'forged' skin. A somewhat thick skin . To me a typical skin would be as thick as vinyl wrap or a heavy primer , sealer and base clear paint job. Less than 0.015" this skin of forged carbon being possibly .030"-.045'' on a .350"-.400" part. The short random orientation strands should improve torsional rigidity and the three point test should show exelent strength basically as strong as he part can possibly be made from that material. Awesome video.. i would love to work with carbon, fiberglass, kevlar, any composite basically. I'd like to start a TH-cam channel making things, like car parts. Retro car bodies, motorcycle parts, fairings. With 3D printers bring available nearly anyone can buy one. I saw a guy 3D printed a car... If you can print a car, you can print a mold of a car. And make a composite body for a car. I'd like to build a modern model 'T'. A 24-25 year model a 2025 not 1925! Maybe electric, maybe hybrid. Or maybe alternative fuel possibly propane or methane or CNG, use 20"-22" rims 7.5-8.5" wide. A steel and aluminum frame with steel rollbar a minimal roll cage. Hidden inside the body. Or Maybe a 28; A-model, insted of thr ,T-model. The model A was more of a modern car. Maybe make it a wide body low like a modern car. More aerodynamic. Use a mid 2000's honda engine or a gm vortec 4200, with manual transmission produce 270hp stock , minimum. Lay the grill and windshield back and chop the top. And look into the possibility of carbon reinforcing steel. For things especially like the bumpers. Make them from sheet metal with carbon to make it Ridgid chrome bumper with a carbon (basically a carbon fiber hollow 2x4 having a foam or honeycomb inside) glued ir epoxied to the steel. Make the body wider (it would be awesome if the the car manufacturers would build something like a old car with modern parts, no computers for everything.) Tear drop headlights. And make the grill shorter wider and laid back slightly with a posdible bulge in the center to promote aero. The vortec 4.2L with a turbo can easily produce 500+ hp curious what it would do on propane or CNG. Injecting liquid propane into the engine maybe a direct injection vortec 4300 would fit better possibly and produce more power curious if propane direct injection is possible. Maybe have both direct and port injection. And multi fuel, inject methanol and methane/propane! Mays well add a turbo and produce 600+ HP and get near 30:mpg with a 5-speed with a additional over drive. Or split the gears having 10 gears! 10 speed manual! All built from carbon fiber and possibly kevlar, sorry to ramble have a great day.
These components are only relatively structural. If they'd been designed for higher loads or more safety critical applications then we would have included a sandwich, or at the very least some crushed up Pringles.
Still love your videos. I learn so much. Could your next video be about the manufacturing of a carbon one-piece aero cockpit for road bikes ?? We see them a lot nowadays, but I can't figure out how they're made...
Thanks for the feedback, glad you're enjoying them. We have kind of covered this process with the mountain bike frame. th-cam.com/video/UWSePEV88tw/w-d-xo.html You would need a multi part tool and internally bag the part to provide consolidation to the inside of the mould.
Gotta say i had huge succes with forged carbon from 3d printed molds . I did it different tho . I did single use molds since most parts i make are single pieces. I just laminated the part and then temper it up to the right temp on an old printer headbed with a thermo box on top . Afzer the cycle which i control by printer g code i just temper back up to 70 degrees and then peel the pla mold off like chewing gum. As mold release i exclusivly used pva . Two coats. Also i never cared about sanding the molds . Sanding the carbon is way easier then sanding pla oder petg
To add some spice into the mix, what about using various gauges of longer fibers, or adding some twists into the fibers before wetting down for internal compressive stress
I thought I was done with forged carbon fiber, but this video is excellent, and has inspired me to give it another go. Right after I finish this ham sandwich.
Let us know the results.
HAHAHAHAHAHA...came to comments to suggest sfm might need to play with this again...did not disappoint.
Lose the bread and ham, the mechanical properties are a bit shit 😂
I still can smell that episode 😂
damn it I came here to make a ham sandwich reference 10 hours too late.
Absolutely loved the camera trickery when you showed the 3d printer running while talking. Fastest 3d printer in the world!
I was thinking the same thing. Someone has been polishing their video editing skills.
@@tomhollins5303 It's really easy though, you just talk reaaaally slowly and speed up the video
YESSS I came for this! :D I started 3D printing thanks to them and I loved to see that. It took me a while to understand he was bamboozling us, one year ago i wouldn't have noticed anything!
@@sovietmaize8277 Today's Job: Speak for 8 hours
almost sold me an ultimaker there for a second.
This is, by far, the best company advertising I've ever seen on TH-cam. Someday I hope to have our house and shop done so I can get this a try (I've done a lot of fiberglass work in the past). But, until then I still watch all your videos. These are awesome content.
Thank you very much. We wish you all the best getting your house and shop sorted and we'll be happy to supply you and hear about your projects when you get going.
I’m a student trying to make a fully carbon fibre rc airplane for a scholarship project. This companies infinite knowledge on carbon fibre has helped me beyond anything else on the internet. Thank you for sharing your superior insights.
Glad to hear that we've been able to help you out and provide some insight. Best of luck with your project.
Best composites content on youtube!
Thanks Robin, appreciate your support.
The stop motion knolling with sound effects at 9:24 is incredibly satisfying.
Thanks. I think that was some expertly produced custom sound-scaping (our videographer Ben drumming his fingers on the table!).
I see an easy composite video : I like the video first then I enjoy.
I saw it when i opened YT and a smile came on my face haha
Hahaha me too!
This will most likely blow up just like your last forged carbon video! Great job, thank you!
Thanks. I hope it does 😃. This has actually become a process that we use quite a bit internally at Easy Composites as a great method of producing all manner of small moulded parts. The more it gets seen, the more people can add this process to their 'toolbox'!
@@IkarimTheCreature Oops, thanks for letting me know - I've updated it; replying to responses too quickly :)
@@easycompositestv Thank you for continuously bringing innovation to everyday people!
@@IkarimTheCreature It really is our pleasure.
@@easycompositestv Exactly! Just like carbon fiber skinning, forged carbon is something that is very much achievable by diy'ers at home, which makes it all the more interesting. Your videos are the reason why i now consider self made carbon fiber parts for my project cars, so thanks again :)
One thing I'd suggest is to use a deburring tool to remove the flashing. There is way less risk to cut yourself and damage the part with the sharp tip of the knife. They make them in all sorts of shapes and sizes and they are great for 3d prints, too.
Good suggestion!
Who knew these parts could look so good simply by not putting a ham sandwich in them
haha yes SuperfastMatt has some unorthodox methods!
The bread does tend to absorb too much resin
The sandwich is structural.
Still blown away these videos are free! Thank you guys so much I made brake levers for my goldwing after the first video and now after this I feel like my excf might need some 🤔
Thanks for the comment! i'm still riding on the levers made in that last video, I would have normally broken 2 or 3 in that time, maybe just good luck but they have taken a good few drops!
Kit worked great, was a bit disappointed it came chucked in a plain box with no instructions, but knew from the YT Video and my own manufacturing experience what to do. great kit Just wish the presentation was better!
Thanks for revisiting this super cool stuff
Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad the process worked for you. We originally intended the video tutorial to be the instructions (in our experience, this is the way most people prefer to learn) and as such this is always the focus of our attention but it's good feedback to know that you expected, and would have liked, printed instructions too. As it happens, we have started putting together a PDF instruction booklet which will be downloadable from the product page (not that you'll need that now!) but I'll discuss with the team whether adding a printed copy to the box is something we'll choose to do as well.
Thanks for the reply! Even just a qr code to the youtube video would be great! Not even a full pdf, just a welcome flyer with a qr code!
Kit worked great though very happy! Top work guys keep it up thanks
I’m usually dumbfounded by some YT channels with high number subscribers, turning out poor quality, practically Usless and non educational content .
This channel has got to be in the top 10 and dare I say it TOP channel for technical quality, video production, professionalism and manners to name a few .
It puts the mainstream media including the BBC and many others to shame. You do genuinely deserve the views
👍🇬🇧.
Thanks for the kind words, it's appreciated. We try to improve with every video, not sure that we would quite rival a BBC production yet though!
I just took delivery of your cast kit the other day, shipped halfway across the world, inspired by the previous video on the motorcycle engine cover. Can't wait to get started with this.
That's great to hear, I really hope you get good results with it. And of course, you know where we are if you have any questions or problems 👍
What i love about these videos is you get a useful piece of information in every single sentence, none of this watching for half an hour just to get a single punch line 😅😅 every video makes me smarter! And not easy 😮 lol
We do spend a fair amount of time consciously trying to find the balance between being informative enough to get the technical knowledge across without it being an information dump. It sounds like we've managed to get it about right on this one so thanks for the feedback. 😃
one of the best technical instructional channels out there. Informative and well presented. Order coming your way soon. That’s how it’s done folks.
Thanks for the kind words, it's appreciated.
I use this method to make components for my recumbent trikes. Cranks, suspension arms, etc. I'm glad more people are learning of these techniques from you! Most can't CNC aluminum at home, but with your methods they can get similar stiffness very easily.
Thanks for the comment, yeah it really is an engineering hack to get high performance parts without a big budget! Glad you've been making good use of it.
Your videos are so incredibly well done. I'd never even considered making parts in this method!
You guys.. these videos are so well thought out, jam packed with all the needed information and of the highest quality with the greatest attention to details. Already a customer, and I shall keep recommending easy composites. Keep up the fantastic work
Thanks for your support and feedback 🙂
That was one fast printer!
Still waiting for that video on moldless construction with infusion over sacrificial 3D print.
Also do a video on fasteners suitable for composite work and embedding metal parts into composites.
Another problem I saw with anyone making videos on composites - almost nobody makes structural parts, its all hoods, covers, shells and the like, glad to see something different here.
I know! It'd be great if they really were that fast though, right? Thanks for the votes/suggestions, they're all topics we do plan to cover.
@@easycompositestv the bambulab printers are almost that fast, you guys really need to upgrade from that ancient ultimaker
@@DingDongDrift They're not that fast LMFAO
@@gunsmoke132 i know it's not as fast as this clip, but still 4x faster than an ultimaker
Nobody makes structural parts because it's almost impossible to do on your garage😂😂 in Lamborghini we made the revuelto monocoque tub in forged, and it takes almost 8 years to develope, imagine in a normal garage without the right equipment😅.
This video is so fantastic for someone needing to understand the benefits AND how possible it can be to get started in this.
Thanks for such an easy to understand and inspiring look into this. One day I want to build my own parts and this has made that day look closer.
Glad it was helpful!
Curses! Just days after my order you add the long strand to the kit 😆 Great you're listening to feedback and yet again a great video.
Have you checked whether your kit has the long strand fibre in? - We did start adding it to the kits a bit early in preparation so it's worth checking. If you find you haven't and you have any future orders coming up, let us know and we'll include a pack of the long strand tow free of charge 😃.
@@easycompositestv I hope so as I paid extra :D
A new Easy Composites video?! LETS GOOOO
So happy to see this video, I've been planning to try this method for FPV arms for a while, so seeing your approach is super helpful. This channel is an absolute gem!
Glad you found it useful, thanks for watching !
I have had quite the success in following the last forged cf video, having made myself a set of thru axle rear dropouts for a bike frame. Thank you for encouragement, knowledge and inspiration to take on a new hobby, would never happen if not for this channel.
I actually thought I knew all the little tricks with FCF. and once again you gave me a new idea. brilliant!
You guys know how to sell your products. You make such excellent, detailed videos that one can only appreciate the effort. I'm on the other side of the planet on a tiny rock but I am yet to find any company that comes remotely close to what you guys are doing and so you're getting some of my money as soon as I am ready to learn and do some composite work on my project car. Cheers.
Thanks for your kind words, they certainly make it work the time and effort that goes into them. Whilst you guys keep watching and enjoying them, we'll do our best to keep them coming. Feel free to get in touch when the time comes and you're ready to get stuck in.
Every video gets better than the one before. Thanks for these insights.
Wonderful video! Will get my forged kit on the way ASAP. I have had a lot of requests from people asking to show mold creation and I always send them to your channel. So clear and concise!
Thanks for the feedback, glad to hear that you find the chanel to be a useful teaching tool.
The quality of your content is exceptional 👍. Highly appreciated.
Thanks for watching and commenting, it's appreciated!
Paul from Easy Composites, the hero we need!
These videos are (saying it again and yet again) so well done. They can really freshen up even a very bad day and make viewers, simply, want to go out there and build something.
Glad you enjoy them.
Me and a buddy used the Easy Composites kit and instructions to make a clutch lever for a husqvarna 701 SM and it worked absolutely perfectly! it was so exciting seeing the part come out of the mold looking almost perfect !
Nice one, glad to hear you had a successful moulding!
I love the small editing flourishes put in!
Years ago I was obsessed with making carbon parts. Nowadays I realize I don’t really like doing it, I just enjoy watching this guys videos while he does it haha
Your videos are fantastic. Basically one of the best tutorials and education on TH-cam.
Thanks for the feedback, it's nice to hear they're worth the effort.
Just when I thought your videos couldn’t get any better, you drop this one!
Thank you so much for sharing your amazing knowledge with the world.
I’m so looking forward to creating my own forged parts.
I think I’ll start with my old school Kent 1600 Xflow Cosworth rocker cover for my mk1 escort.
Then I’ll try an inlet manifold for twin DCOE Weber carburettors.
Thanks again!!!
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀☮️☮️☮️
Hi Steve, nice to hear from you as always. Off the top of my head, I'm picturing the rocker cover being relatively large, by 'forged carbon' standards. If you do give it a go, it might be worth starting with something smaller; the forged process is easier and more reliable on small, solid components, although the flywheel cover we made in the first video was probably a bit closer in terms of shape and size. Let us know how you get on.
The one and only paul, best notification on youtube what a guy!
Great video. Really enjoy your tutorials on composite manufacture.
That's great, thanks for your feedback 🙂
It's incredibly satisfying to read the comments on your vids. Everyone seems to genuinely positive. Also great advertising for your products. Whenever i see carbon fiber i think of you guys now.
Thanks for the support. We do like to think we have built up a great community of enthusiasts over the years so it is nice to see.
This is a great vid!
I'm definitely using this method when building suspension parts for my streamliner later this year. 😀
great video and great explanation as usual. I will need to design a part to use this process!
Is there any virtue in offsetting the surfaces slightly more and building up a few layers of primer with an airbrush on order to improve the surface quality of the mould? Back when I worked in F1 we used TB650 and often that was pained post machining to improve the part quality. I can’t see how it wouldn’t help in this application….
I’m keen to get myself one of these kits and have a play. It’s brilliant that these kinds of technologies, coupled with the quality of consumer 3D printers these days, means that Joe Schmoe in his garage can knock out some decent quality carbon parts. The world truly is your lobster these days. Great vid as ever @easycomposites
Thanks for the comment, if you can find a coating that will bond to the print then absolutely you could improve the finish of the parts by finishing the moulds further, printing with a resin printer could also be a good option for improving the finish.
@@easycompositestv I have a resin printer so could give that a try, I wasn't sure that resin parts would be up to the job, but thanks for the pointer. Thinking about it, I could resin print patterns and then use something like TC80 to make the moulds from the patterns. Cheers
Moment Paul said Hi was the moment I had to give Like button right away
Superb video as always mate and awesome work on the parts.
Thanks for the comment Jon!
I like to think of 'forged carbon' as the oriented strand board (OSB) of composites. Some things you would never construct with it - but often it's strong enough for the job and really doesn't matter.
Super video...great production as always
Could we imagine for a second... a DIYPerks x easy composites collaboration... I would die a thousand happy deaths...
Superb video quality!!!
This channel is a gift. We don’t deserve it 🙃❤
Steven Spielberg of composites tutorials strikes again!
If you want to improve the strength of the drone arm even more with this method, you could have the long fibers added first and last, and using the chopped ones as a "core". Although it will be not as visually appealing as the chopped fibers. One solution for this is to add a very thin layer of chopped fibers, then half of the long ones, fill the mould with almost the rest of the chopped, and lastly the other half of the long fibers with some chopped ones over it for aesthetics.
The issue with this being that the long fibres are not able to 'flow' around the cavity and take the form of any surface detail which is present. The short strands on the other hand are far more manipulatable and can pick up this detail with far less risk of producing voids in the surface.
@@easycompositestv i have done this exact way about a month ago, by following your first video on forged carbon. after a few trials with molding, I came up with a 4 piece mold for drone arms almost like yours in this video. What a coincidence! After i saw this - got instant satisfaction that i was on a right track to make a successful mould. But i agree with previous comment - i ran long strands of tow as much as i could everywhere, and short strands around small features and on outside surface finish. it came out great!
The best of TH-cam. Seriously.
Thanks, glad you appreciate it!
love these videos
As always, thanks for the great video!
Thanks for your feedback 🙂
Fantastic! Thank you for you amazing how to videos! 👌
Thanks for watching, Glad you like them!
Very detailed video manual with a lot of useful information. The best for beginners.
Thanks for the feedback, glad you found it useful.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome, inspiring video as per usual! The 3D printer shot had me ready to put an axe to my Prusa printers there for a second til I realized some video wizardry was taking place lol!
That 3d print timelapse edit at 9:00 is real slick, man.
All thanks to the work of our videographer 😅
thank you for another excellent video. especially for the extended cad on your website. you are like the titans of cnc of carbon composite but much cheaper to set up in your garage at home! 😄
You're very welcome. It's been something we've wanted to share for a while.
I use this techniqe for some time to make my custom quadcopter frames. :) This is nice detailed tutorial.
3:44 That's quite a sound effect! I have a feeling whoever edited the video was not wearing headphones with good bass... Or was that a huge vehicle passing by the shop?
Maybe you've got better headphones! I'm checking it now and can't really hear anything, but we are on an industrial estate and operate a busy warehouse ourselves so a big truck is never out of the question!
The editor obviously (and rightfully so) knows that jungle is massive. 😁
You got me as soon i saw a mark 5 ,love to learn more about moulding with you in the future, peace ✌️.
Thanks for watching, be sure to subscribe so you don't miss out on any of our future videos.
Damn good job as allways. You make crazy fine parts. Love it.
You could improve strength by putting the long strands near top and bottom surfaces. In the middle they do little for bending loads.
Nice edit of the 3d printing!!!
Yes, Thanks go to our videographer Ben for that!
I was just making a guide for forged carbon as my master thesis, I'm thorn between thinking this is bad timing or good timing, some points I make in my guide are reinforced in this video I guess. It will be open source, so when it is done, I'll be uploading it and hope to get some feedback.
Hi Brent, I'd love to read your thesis and give you some feedback when it's done, drop us an email whenever. Great choice of subject, there's a lot of untapped potential for it.
Your workshop is amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks! Yeah I love it in there, we've got some upgrades coming soon too!
Bought the forged carbon and prepreg kit to get to know how carbon fiber parts are made. Well I've made like 3 parts for my motorcycle out of the forged carbon fiber, now looking to replace the TC80 with resin printed molds as i'm already familiar with 3d modelling and I can be lazier lmao.
Thanks guys for bringing this knowledge with the kits to the general population :)
Thanks for watching, glad that you've been having success with the process, for sure printing the moulds is a faster route than casting with TC80, although the TC80 is more durable if you plan to make a batch.
@@easycompositestv Yea that was a concern of mine aswell. The tensile strength compared to the TC80(12-17MPa) is quite a bit weaker compared to the tensile strength of the e.g. Anycubic 2.0 Tough Resin wich is 58MPa). Sadly I couldnt find anything regarding the compressive strength but I will see how that translates into reallife use compared to the TC80.
Will be alot cheaper aswell as im still in school scrapping by on pocket money :)
@@easycompositestv If i plan to make more ill probably.... I dont know. Maybe CNC some aluminium or ill see the durability test vs the two materials
@@easycompositestv Yea okay, I had tensile strength and felxural strength / modulus mixed up. Yea the resin is quite a bit lower in the overall strength. Gonna see how that affects the moulds / if its even possible to create reiable moulds
Your videos are very informative and appreciated! please continue making them
Thanks Dillbeet, we enjoy making them and intend to keep doing so - we have lots more either under way already or already planned.
love it excited to give it a go on a design i have
I find this a blessing ! .. . The world is starting to shed the old guard ( 1%) ..... The peoples world is coming ...
Companies like this will free us from big tech in many ways .
Amazing products
Gosh I love this channel
professional video
It would be very interesting to see a further optimization of the carbon weave and structure, by 3D printing a central skeleton piece that can be strategically designed to allow weaving the strands around it, then placing more carbon on top and compressing it. I think it would allow for repeatable results, with less variables. Just a thought, could be way off.
For certain applications, more precise orientation of the fibres as that may allow, could be beneficial.
You should try something like 60% infiil, but with adaptative cubic or equivalents, un my esperience, works really well.
Thank you so much for making this video Paul!!!
Another GREAT video.
One detail though, for the drone arm: you've got the long tow fibers going down the middle of the part. You needed to do that because they don't flow like the chopped tow, and you used chopped tow near the surfaces of the part to get better conformation to the mold.
But this is a problem. That part is stressed in cantilever. The centerline of the part sees essentially no stress at all, which means your long tow fibers are right where they do the least good.
I'm not suggesting you've made a mistake. Rather, I think there's a fundamental tension here in designing forged carbon fiber parts, that all of us are going to have to deal with. I'd really like to see you address that tension in the high-quality way that you've made all these videos.
Various approaches I can imagine:
* In your suspension part, you've got the axis of compression across the width of the beam. This makes it practical for you to push the long tow fibers towards the areas of maximum stress. Good solution.
* You might load the drone arm first with long tow fibers, then chopped tow fibers, then finish with long tow fibers. I don't know how well this will conform to the mold.
I'd also like to see a discussion of where the air bubbles go. How do you avoid voids in the finished part? My guess is that you are dissolving the air into the epoxy by applying pressure. Is that true, and does it determine some minimum pressure that is needed to get a good void-free part?
Thanks for the well considered questions, you are right that loading the long tows more centrally compromises their potential but was done to aid flow into the contours, during the fibre migration they actually end up being forced to the outside more, also these arms face some of the greatest stress in frontal impact (not the direction tested) where they will be working more effectively. That said I could have done more testing and experimentation with the loading on this part.
With regard to the air entrapment, the pressure is primarily present during closure, once the tools bottom out the resin flows out until near equilibrium is approached, the air tends to escape very readily during closure as it is able to flow much more quickly to the low pressure regions (atmosphere) it very much depends on the part but a very low void content is typically achieved.
The main complaint I hear about carbon fibre is repetitive stress fractures.
You should really do a CF vs FCF vs Aluminum test for strength after many many non-failure stresses. Like flexing it over and over.
Fatigue tests would certainly be an interesting comparison, although it's not something we specifically have the test facilities for at present.
@@easycompositestv I guess you would want something a little more professional looking than a motor with a spinning arm on it. Lol
Your back!
When is the "Paul" action figure going on sale?
You guys have the best marketing strategy on youtube! Do you have ideas for faster finishing of the parts? I was thinking maybe vibratory tumbling could do it?
A vibration tumber isn't something that we've tried but it's certainly worth giving it a go with a fine grit and it wouldn't need to go in for very long. You might find that it pitts the surface slightly or even breaks out the resin matrix and leaves fibres behind. It can't harm to give it a go though.
excellent video ! you have saved many hours and hours of frustration and learning curve has certainly been reduced in forging forwards ;)
Thank you!!
Brilliant engineering skills! Thank you so much for sharing!
No problem, thanks for watching!
Been watching your videos and they are great.
Thanks for watching.
Would you not technically get better stiffness/strength if you put the chopped tow in the center and the long strands on the surface? Since the maximum stress is at the surface and the least in the center of a cross section.
Hi, good question... someone else just asked this below, maybe something we should have discussed in the video!
As you've pointed out, the UD fibres would have more influence the further out they were. The reason is really a practicality of the forged carbon process. It's only the short strand fibres that are properly mobile and will 'flow' into the mould's surface detail reliably, which is why we opted for short strand on the surface and then the long strands could happily sit in the middle of the laminate. That said, this is a relatively new process even to us and it's quite possible that we could have put UD fibres closer to the outside faces of the component and still got good results. If you experiment with this yourself, please do share your experience and results.
This is a great video. Now I'm waiting for the full fordge engine with high temperature resins in the pistons and Conrods.
Thanks for watching. The issue isn't just the temperature resistance but also wear rates and variation in thermal expansion compared to more traditional metallic materials.
This is a really great tutorial! I can't help but wonder how viable it would be to create a forged part with chopped up prepreg. Have you ever tried doing that? The 3D printed mold probably wouldn't work, but it seems like it would eliminate a lot of the mess and hassle of getting the resin in the mold.
We haven't done it ourselves but it's certainly possible. As you say though, it does rule out the 3D printed mould.
A bonnet with a layer of short cut carbon fibers on the outside for optics and woven carbon fiber on the inside for strength would look simply out of this world.
Thanks for the comment, this is certainly something we could look at doing, it's perfectly possible.
Great video and useful tips.
Thanks a lot
Thanks for the feedback, glad you found it useful.
I think about 75-85% of a part being long single direction strands. With the rest being a 'forged' skin. A somewhat thick skin . To me a typical skin would be as thick as vinyl wrap or a heavy primer , sealer and base clear paint job. Less than 0.015" this skin of forged carbon being possibly .030"-.045'' on a .350"-.400" part. The short random orientation strands should improve torsional rigidity and the three point test should show exelent strength basically as strong as he part can possibly be made from that material. Awesome video.. i would love to work with carbon, fiberglass, kevlar, any composite basically. I'd like to start a TH-cam channel making things, like car parts. Retro car bodies, motorcycle parts, fairings. With 3D printers bring available nearly anyone can buy one. I saw a guy 3D printed a car... If you can print a car, you can print a mold of a car. And make a composite body for a car. I'd like to build a modern model 'T'. A 24-25 year model a 2025 not 1925! Maybe electric, maybe hybrid. Or maybe alternative fuel possibly propane or methane or CNG, use 20"-22" rims 7.5-8.5" wide. A steel and aluminum frame with steel rollbar a minimal roll cage. Hidden inside the body. Or Maybe a 28; A-model, insted of thr ,T-model. The model A was more of a modern car. Maybe make it a wide body low like a modern car. More aerodynamic. Use a mid 2000's honda engine or a gm vortec 4200, with manual transmission produce 270hp stock , minimum. Lay the grill and windshield back and chop the top. And look into the possibility of carbon reinforcing steel. For things especially like the bumpers. Make them from sheet metal with carbon to make it Ridgid chrome bumper with a carbon (basically a carbon fiber hollow 2x4 having a foam or honeycomb inside) glued ir epoxied to the steel. Make the body wider (it would be awesome if the the car manufacturers would build something like a old car with modern parts, no computers for everything.) Tear drop headlights. And make the grill shorter wider and laid back slightly with a posdible bulge in the center to promote aero. The vortec 4.2L with a turbo can easily produce 500+ hp curious what it would do on propane or CNG. Injecting liquid propane into the engine maybe a direct injection vortec 4300 would fit better possibly and produce more power curious if propane direct injection is possible. Maybe have both direct and port injection. And multi fuel, inject methanol and methane/propane! Mays well add a turbo and produce 600+ HP and get near 30:mpg with a 5-speed with a additional over drive. Or split the gears having 10 gears! 10 speed manual! All built from carbon fiber and possibly kevlar, sorry to ramble have a great day.
Excellent as always!
Excellent Video and Components.Thank you.🌐🖖
Thank you for your kind comment, it's greatly appreciated!
OK, I'm confused. Did you guys skip the part where you put a ham sandwich in the part? I thought that was a necessary part of the process
These components are only relatively structural. If they'd been designed for higher loads or more safety critical applications then we would have included a sandwich, or at the very least some crushed up Pringles.
World's fastest Ultimaker 😂 but nice video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Still love your videos. I learn so much.
Could your next video be about the manufacturing of a carbon one-piece aero cockpit for road bikes ??
We see them a lot nowadays, but I can't figure out how they're made...
Thanks for the feedback, glad you're enjoying them. We have kind of covered this process with the mountain bike frame. th-cam.com/video/UWSePEV88tw/w-d-xo.html You would need a multi part tool and internally bag the part to provide consolidation to the inside of the mould.
Gotta say i had huge succes with forged carbon from 3d printed molds . I did it different tho . I did single use molds since most parts i make are single pieces. I just laminated the part and then temper it up to the right temp on an old printer headbed with a thermo box on top . Afzer the cycle which i control by printer g code i just temper back up to 70 degrees and then peel the pla mold off like chewing gum. As mold release i exclusivly used pva . Two coats. Also i never cared about sanding the molds . Sanding the carbon is way easier then sanding pla oder petg
I started 3D printing watching your videos, loved to see how fast can print that Ultimaker!! 🤣🤣🤣
To add some spice into the mix, what about using various gauges of longer fibers, or adding some twists into the fibers before wetting down for internal compressive stress
As long as you think about the practicality of laying it in the mould, then yes no reason why you couldn't mix it up to get different properties.