Brake Noise, Then Grinding, Almost Leads To Catastrophic Failure!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 เม.ย. 2024
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Years ago, I saw pistons on parts counters used as ashtrays.
I have several in the garage and house! But I'm 60 so that may have something to do with it!
Kenny, for the torque freaks you need to verbally go "click". 😂
Kenny, a health issue caused me to stop mechanicing for while. I couldn't fix my own stuff. So with my employee discount, I found after checking into every other company, I couldn't do better than with the company I worked for. I checked Honda, Nissan, Toyota and even the domestics. They wanted thousands and thousands more than my company. So I bought a brand spanking new GM pickup. At 60,000 miles it absolutely shut off at 60mph on the expressway. Without a laptop and the proprietary software one needs to purchase from the manufacturer, I couldn't diagnose it exactly. But with the help of a little starting fluid sneaked into the induction system, I found that the reason for not running was fuel. When I started to dive into it old school, it started up. For 8 months, it would stop running but restart. Sometimes the engine would idle, but I'd have no throttle response. After that 8 month period of intermittent running, it finally came to a total stop. Then I knew I had to replace either the fuel pump, the fuel pump driver, the manual high pressure fuel pump on the engine or the pcm. I had my son crank the engine while I was under the gas tank. Upon hearing no fuel pump, I began beating on it with a bfh and it started right up. So I R & R'd the pump. That worked. Then, at 66,000 miles I heard scraping from the rear disc brakes. It turned out to be the outer pad on the driver side. The entire friction material was missing on just the outer, the inner material was a good 1/8" or so. When I knocked the pad out of the slides I found they were stuck in there pretty severely. Ken, I've done countless 1,000's of brake jobs, and I have never seen pads stuck so bad in their slides. Forget all about the fact that this vehicle only had 66,000 miles* and I am the one who owned it that whole time. * I do not drive taxi cab service so I usually get nearly 100,000 miles on my brakes. In other words, this was the worst pos I have ever worked on bar none. The fact that I was the owner, and it spent very little time in salt, means to me there were errors in the manufacturing. This taught me a lesson: Even when purchased new, I will pull all the brakes apart and do a competition brake job like I did for 56yrs on all my brake jobs. I trusted the manufacturer to do it right and they failed me. Shame on you GM. I can only sit and wonder what will fail next. On the fuel pump issue, the dealer could not help me unless I had the vehicle towed to the dealership. The dealer had no concierge deliver service, so I called the local guy and he wanted $250 to flatbed it 3 the miles. Then the dealer couldn't commit to a cost less than $1,000 to diagnose it and repair it. I was a bit angry that right off the bat I would have to commit to around $1,200 to get it fixed. I always worked in a repair shop befor and during my 36yr tenure at GM, so I got to see first hand just how bad the stuff was we pushed out onto the public. But, me being the first owner and driving like a 90yr old lady, only on nice days? This thing really enlightened me. It's no wonder the EPA, DOT and our illegitimate government want us to go all electric. The drivetrain the oem's pedal is garbage and so are the brakes. ben/ michigan
There was a time when we bought caliper rebuild kits and rebuilt them ourselves.
Used to do the same for wheel cylinders, buy a kit and rebuild em, I even had a small 2 stone hone just for that...
Manufacturers prefer to sell more lucrative complete units these days.
There is ONE advantage to the lug bolts instead of studs: it makes the hub face easier to clean when replacing the rotor. Other than that, I agree, lug nuts > lug bolts
This is the 1st time I ever saw Kenny using brake cleaner to clean brakes! 😅
Always a first.
Sometimes it seems strange to see a product actually used for what it's advertised.
He wants to throw the empty can across the room like Rain man Ray does.
Not cleaning the Rotors seating face had me cringing Kenny.....Wire wheel it....🤔😏🇬🇧
I agree.
Why do people always wait till the brakes start grinding then do the brakes it cost more when you do it that way, I do my pads every 2 yrs and never have brakes problem 😅
Couldn't agree more, I've commented on this in previous brake rotor replacement and it stems from if you don't clean the mating face on the hub you'll have brake disc runout within a few thousand miles and have to do the job again. For any newbie watching this video it is a bad practice and I cannot condone this at all. I only watched this video to 9:13 and came away in disgust.
Agreed..... all that rust can cause vibrations during braking..... kind of a hack job..... jus’sayin.....
Kenny is fortunate enough to live where rust isn't a major issue. The Salt Belt is a different world.
I used to rebuild my calipers , buy a seal kit for a few bucks.. Nowadays I dont even think they sell a rebuild kit. ?? Same with alternators..
You don’t want to pay the mechanic 200 dollars a hour when you can get a rebuilt caliper for a fraction of the cost.
Yeah, we used to be able to rebuild starters also!
@@goodcitizen64 👍And rebuild alternator
@@goodcitizen64 You can on Toyotas, old boss would buy a pack of the copper contacts for the starter solenoid ($10 for a multi pack). Those wear out, and don't engage the starter anymore. Replace the contacts, all good for a long time
I like it when 'bleeding' goes smooth ! Just did a newer bmw... did a new abs hydraulic module also... even with scan tool it took a while. Don't know if bmw is the worst to bleed but it ranks at the top ! Anyway.... good job Kenny...
When I worked a a NAPA in the late 70’s all cores went into a 55 gallon drum all mixed together.
I started at Napa in 1985 that's how we did it they changed the policy late 90 early 2000 you had to have the core in a the box
The rusted hub should be cleaned with a wire brush or wire wheel then sprayed with Brake Cleaner. Rust can left on the hub could cause rumour error.. Also Torque your wheels especially after rotor replacement. This helps ensure a flat even contact on rotor to hub..
Hello Kenny!
Have a nice Sunday.
Your video is ok, but I'm wondering why you didn't clean the hub with a brass brush and apply special ceramic paste to prevent rusting. If there is dirt between the brake disk and the hub, this can lead to imbalance or the braking performance is not 100%. That's how I learned it once.
Nevertheless, your videos are great to watch and your explanations are very good. Please keep up the good work!
I wish you many more videos, the best of health and I will be happy to watch.
Greetings from Germany!👋👋👋
I'm surprised that the manufacturer didn't use a banjo bolt to make life easier when removing & installing the brake hose from the brake caliper, that's something that Holden did with my car.
I also made a one man brake bleeder out of a soft drink bottle & a length of clear PVC hose which works great as long as I keep the bottle above the level of the brake caliper or else it will keep siphoning the brake fluid out of the brake caliper.
I would've also checked the rest of the brakes as well because there's every chance that ar least the other front wheel needs new brake pads as well.
I always make it a practice to bleed the whole entire brake system because a ton of air came out of the rear brake system in my car when I bled the brakes once,I start at the furtherest brake caliper on the rear then I work my way to the closest brake caliper to the brake master cylinder !
That was some crazy wear on everything. Did the customer not hear the squealing? WOW!
Yea, we spent some time with the customer explaining what to listen for/feel with her vehicle. She will be coming to us for her regular maintenance, so it won't happen again. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
They heard it but as long as it could stop they don't care , people are cheap and stupid 😂
Over the years, I have had to drill out so many of those set screws, I lost count.
would have been a good idea to wire wheel the face of the hub prior to rotor install to prevent any runout...
Happened to me. Before it happened:
Vehicle was an old minivan that had clearly been a northern car and already needed brakes when I suddenly lost all the meat on one pad to rust jacking… I assume (never hit the squealer). Tire Discounters and Goodyear turned me away because it was around Thanksgiving… the busiest travel period of the year meaning they were booked solid. Tires Plus accepted then declined when they saw all the rust. Though the body panels were very rusted and you couldn’t jack it up from the almost-gone rocker panels, it wasn’t that bad. Frame was fine. Georgians just aren’t used to northern rust.
After that I resolved to do it myself but had no tools or workspace since I had been recently displaced by a tornado that also crushed my car… hence the 22 year old charity rust bucket I’m driving now. I got a bunch of tools on Black Friday and ordered everything I needed to do the brakes.
When it came time to move the van someplace I could do the work, I planned to get it there using engine braking and the parking brake… but almost immediately the wheel seized as the back plate slipped out of the caliper bracket. I found back in position even though you could see where it had torn its way through the caliper piston (heavily damaged). It must’ve gone back when the tow truck dragged it backwards.
Even new calipers for this old vehicle had sat in the warehouse for decades causing the factory grease to harden into wax. I removed as much as I could and added my own premium grease but I couldn’t get it all out with the tools I had. This means the slide pins would stick and cause excessive wear. I had to rebuild them two more times before they worked right!
Just finished the video. My pistons were WAY worse than these! Oddly, the rotor looked like it would have been fine before it went metal to metal. It’s like the brake pad back plate itself had worn thin, but even that didn’t seem too extreme. It had nubs on the back to align with the piston and those literally tore through the sides when it slipped the pad.
My Mom's car was grinding so bad that the wheel caught fire, lol
Good grief! That must have made for an interesting day! Thanks for watching 🔧
You said, "when you hear grinding, get your brakes checked". I found that it's too late by the time you hear grinding. Lately, I've noticed the brake pads no longer come with the wear indicator that would squeal when the brakes were low. Now, when I hear grinding, I go to the store and get pads and rotors. It seems as if the wear indicators were removed just to sell more parts. Your take?
What I have found over the years is that brakes dont always make a lot of noise even when they get down to the metal. If they did then people would fix things before they get thay far gone.
When putting new pads on my daughters cars I show them the wear bars and tell them when they get worn down to them they make really shrill squealing noise, then after awhile it goes away. It doesn't mean it fixed itself, it means it wore through the warning device.
It’s a bear trying to push the piston into the bore of the brake caliper past the rubber seal.
Drain the cores as well,I always do this before putting them in the box.Makes it easier for the parts store delivery person to pick the box up without making a mess on them
Getting those caliper bolts untorqued can be a bit of a challenge sometimes, going the other direction it can be hard to get in there with sockets and breaker bars. I got into collecting six - point box wrenches so in places like that i can use a hammer without just stripping the head.
My nephew rounded a 14mm completely and have to call uncle for help. I used a small file and filed the round head into a six sided head that i could get a 13mm six-point wrench on .
Look at how much metal is gone from the inside of the rotor - wow
It's not a "JEEP" which are sh*t but it'll worse it's a "FROGGY JEEP" from Stellantis which makes it prime quality SH*T!
I remember getting two right side calipers for my truck. Of course I was doing the job at night after I got off work, and the parts store was closed.
That's when it will get you, every time. Been there, done that.
As a shadetree mechanic, i noticed Kenny did not grease guidepins or the surfaces where the pads touched metal? Maybe not needed on a Jeep, maybe the new brackets and calipers didn't require grease? Just curious.
They new ones came pre-greased. I should have mentioned that in the video. Keep wrenching 🔧
Greasing the pad guides is a regional thing, and can actually be a problem in areas where rust isn't a huge issue since grease collects dust
You should remove the rotor before picking up the nuts before the rotor falls on your head.
what the heck, you left lint on the the rotor and no loctite on the set screw. that rotor is going to fly off and kill someone lol ha ha ha. love you vids mate
I hate the calipers when they put phenolic pistons in them versus a decent stainless steel one!!
My 1978 Dodge had those.
@@Michael-yi4mc my mothers ‘78 B100 van did as well.
The damage to that piston was nothing compared to the ones from my friends 06 F-250. It has dual piston calipers on the front and the pistons are plastic. They were DESTROYED! I guess that's what happens when you pull a heavy trailer with no trailer brakes!
Dang! He's lucky he didn't have an accident. Thanks for sharing that one! That's bananas 🍌😳🍌 Keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny Yeah. Obviously it spit out a pad too and locked up the right front. I actually had to put the truck in 4 Low and rock it back and forth to run the pad completely out just to get it inside my shop to work on it!
Nice job!
I have seen this sort of thing on farm venicles that only go on private roads, who would drive that on public roads...
one problem I've run into is frequently the metal line will seize to the fitting and I end up twisting the line off. another (usually on fords) the bleeder is tiny and easy to break off.
The lug bolts are probably a Fiat design.
A trick for those lug bolts, since they are hard to get lined up and started, especially if you rotate your own tires is to get a couple of studs the same size and start them in the hub and stick the wheel and start the lug bolts.
My friend had a Benz and such a stud was in the tool kit. Kenny doesn't have time to look for something like that, but it might be there.
When I first started at Napa all the cores calipers water pumps starters alternator were dumped in 55 gallon drums and the boxes were thrown in the trash at some point in time they changed to you had to have the core in its box and they put in the 55 gallon drums.
Vendors realized how much $ they were losing on packing & shipping. Thanks for commenting & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
FYI, I have run into new (rebuilt) calipers that did not have the slide pins lubricated. The instructions (yes, that stuff we never read!) said that the installer needs to lube the slide pins.
Sad that some drivers do so much damage because of ignoring noises and regular scheduled maintenance and inspections of safety systems like brakes. Wonder if the heat generated shortened the wheel bearing life due to the excessive heat created having steel against steel. When checking to make sure the caliper is the correct one before starting the job I would suggest verifying that the thread for the brake hose or banjo bolt are in good shape and that where the sealing surface is on the caliper is not damaged. Nothing more frustrating to find stripped threads or a damaged sealing surface after one gets the caliper mounted.
4.27.24. ⚠️I once had an issue with a remanufactured rear brake caliper not having the bleeder fitting drilled all the way through, it was only partially drilled. Thus the caliper piston was covering up what was drilled through🎯I had a hell of a time, figuring that one out! I thought I had a blockage in the rear line to the caliper. I finally took a flashlight and looked inside and that’s what I found. It was from Napa auto parts.
i like to clean between rotor and the plate and then put Anti seize on it so they don't get stuck on there from rust. also, between rotor and wheel saw people have terrible battles with alloy wheels stuck on car.
Thanks for the video. Hopefully some of the young guns can really have a oh moment on the steps and why you do how it's done.
Looks like Chrysler got those wheel bolts and set screws from Daimler. I have a 2005 SL65 and found some labels inside with “Daimler Chrysler”. It also uses bolts and rotor screws.
rusted hub oh my
U forgot to do tictok performance upgrades like drilling holes into rotors 😂
Question kenny way did the powers that be stop making studs reverse threads never had a tire come off always tight i think it was on a Dodge that was a long time ago
Caution . On some Ford's if pads worn to Metal they can eject from caliper .
A F150 did that we lost all brakes almost crashed went into woods 30 mph
🍌🍌🍌I'm glad no one got hurt. Keep wrenching 🔧
Every one of Kenny’s rebuttal makes a lot of sense.
I had a new 1978 Dodge (Mopar) Aspen and I saw smoke coming out of the front brake caliper. It was the plastic caliper piston that was seized it the bore. I found a metal piston to replace the plastic part and the brake never smoked again.
I had an extremely stupid friend who would not take advice. The more sage, the less likely he was to listen. He's dead now, indirectly from someone I warned him about.
My youngest brother is a head wrench at a Harley Davidson dealership.He has told some that would throw parts in the motorcycle not diagnosing the problem properly first telling them to diagnose it right.Would not listen to him about it.
No anti squeal paste on the pads !
The reason for the pad to rotate up like that was the inside surface of the rotor is gone. Look close.
Nice box wrench. Who made it?
People actually drive with worn out brakes? I’m staying off of the sidewalk.
YES! All the time. Ive seen cars where the pads weren't even there anymore.
@@clems6989 👍Exactly! And they will think that the squeaky is part of the music from their radio.
I don't think they use the same box after they rebuild the part. So if it goes back in any box, it shouldn't be a problem
We have a bunch of promaster vans my shop works on we saw a bunch of failures in their calipers just like this too would always spit the inside pad out around 9000 miles.
The factory put red loctite on those. They SUCK, unless you get them REALLY hot and then try removing them. And new calipers NEVER have enough grease on the slide pins, for use in the Salt Belt!
Thanks for pointing that out for the salty people. The only salt we get is from the ocean. Where we live now we don't even get that. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching.
did he really put the brake disc on that rusted dirty mount?
Do you guys in the usa still return cores I'm in canada and can't remember having a core change in years . Thanks again for your content
Why did you not grease the slide pins? You don't want those to freeze up sometime in the future.
They were already installed pre-greased on assembly. The slide shims were coated on 1 side. No need to add more grease. Thanks for bringing that up. I should have mentioned it. Keep wrenching 🔧
It’s lubed at the factory.
No grease?
Why would you need to replace the set screws? Wouldn’t the wheel hold everything together after being reinstalled?
I had a guy come to me for air in the line so i went to bleed it and guess what it was a right hand caliper on the lift side but the box said lift side for those who dont know the bleeder was on bottom that way cant get the air out that way.
That's the truth! Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
It appeared to be a slotted hole on the top bolt for the caliper mount or bridge. When you took the mount off you took the bolt out after. Chrysler is a little different. Not liking that along with the bolt in wheels. I see the issue with this job and frightening to spit out the pad. Yikes....good catch.
Reviewed the video and maybe the bolt was just simply out enough for it to pull off.
You didn't grease anything?
Nicely done brother Kenny. How was the birthday?
Happy weekend Mr Kenny, hope you and Meg have a good one. What did you get for your birthday, other than a backache?😊
Kenny, aren't the caliper bracket bolts TTY one time use parts? I know GM follows that strategy.
That is a first for me 😮
Hi Kenny , bless u for sharing an insight in what u do, very helpful, may I ask plse what do u think of the drilled and grooved rotors plse , am from across the pond in the uk , personally own a Land Rover discovery 3 , with them being heavy they certainally use wishbone bushes and brakes quicker than cars , saying that are so nice to drive , apologises as I’m waffling , thks again and really enjoy ur videos , stay safe and well , Gary
i had one that the inner rotor was welded to the rotor.
You didn't break in the new pads, that's something you really should be mindful of, you don't need to go bananas breaking them in but it does need to be done. Or are you happy with the way you did it?
The hub should have been cleaned before installing the new rotor…almost all mechanics do so. I very surprised you didn’t
If the gear box making noise does that mean it's gone and second gear keeps knocking out while not touching the gear stick thinking of getting something else any recommended would be good thanks
Have a toyota carolla 07
Would you top off master cylinder after brake bleed?
I did! Thanks for mentioning it. Keep wrenching 🔧
I do brakes every spring, I don’t wait until I hear the grinding noise to get it done. Just put the$400 in the budget every April & b done.
What the heck are you driving that requires brakes done every spring? I normally go about 90-100 k miles on a set of pads.
@@barrygrant2907 I’m talking just in general 2have them checked and whatever needs done or not. I’m not saying every spring u need a complete overhaul, my bad if that wasn’t clear.
Kenny,
Any advice on good rotors and pads for a 2018 1500 for towing semi heavy camper in the mountains of Pennsylvania? I always buy the cheap stuff from Auto Zone, and they never last. Third set of pads and have to replace rotors now at 67,643 miles.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. I absolutely love your honesty and straightforward approach to fixing our vehicles. Keep up the great work.
Jeffrey D
Honestly, I would go with Napa gold. Don't use the slotted & drilled rotors. I used them personally & it was a huge mistake. Thanks for watching the channel. I appreciate your kind words. Keep wrenching 🔧
@4:00 if the rebuilder can't sort out left and right, how do you expect them to actually have the mental capacity to successfully rebuild the caliper? Cores returned in the wrong box is NOT the reason you get the wrong part in the box. FFS.
i have a ratchet breaker bar
i use it to break nuts bolts free all the time
I’m DIY odd job of many things ….mr wrench couldn’t you squeeze/ clamp the brake hose to stop the leak and wouldn’t have needed to bleed the brake line ….and a little copper grease on the brake pads ?
He still had to bleed the brakes to get all the AIR out of the new caliper... I would also have exchanged all the brake fluid at the same time...
They are usually guite easy to drill.but if yuo have to put new on.then its better to take it other way out.they are useles in.ok its heps to keep holes in line.but its not so hard usually put them line without.my own car i dont put them back ewer.
arrogance is called stupidity in my book
i wwasnt the brightest bulb in IT but taking a class in it we had to set up a group in a business where one office was in the usa and the other was in europe
it wasnt working right I ssaid use the enterprise setup it should work he of course didnt listen instructor came in and said why wasnt it done yet well mr arrogsance told him he didnt know why. I said I told him to try enterprise instructor looked at him and said why didnt you? well the short ansewer was
DUZHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH and he was kicked off of being the had guy and second in command was in charge needless to say no one in the group listened to mr. arrogance and we were up and running in no time. simple deduction on doing it
🍌 's yes...
😂😂😂 yup 🍌🍌🍌
Why do manufacturers use weird bolts and fittings like those “E sockets” on that jeep with the destroyed piston/caliper?
I have my own theory: it’s because they are @$$h0les.
But i leave open the possibility that there just might maybe possibly somehow be a good reason for it. The same goes for all the different kinds of mechanisms to detach electrical connectors.
Many thanks,
-Bruce
I like Bananas in my pancakes. I don't have to go Bananas, but I like to,.🍌
To bad you do not have vacuum brake gun.
yep one of them .. u know nothing oldman. i know it all.. cant tell me chit.. hahhaaah i shake my head at them kids
If you had filmed it, you probably couldn’t have shown it anyway. If you anything like me, there would’ve been far too much cursing
Accurate!
not greasing the pad guides either wth am i watching
You're not the shop owner? Who lets you spend time filming?
That’s what friends are for!
I had a car with set screws . What a pain in the ass
Kenny not impressed with this brake job at all. 1. Never bend over to pickup something if the rotor is dangling. 2. Always clean the hub surface. 3. Spray the brake clean directly on the rotor and don't touch it. 4. Hand tighten the set screw. 5. Greese the pad slides.
This jeep is a fiat, hence the wheel bolts. The customer seems to be a winner. This has been grinding for a while. I'm sure the sludge/oil is just as bad...
Kenny, when I see you not wipe off sliders and put fresh grease when you do a brake job, when I see you not clean the rust off of the hubs before you put rotors, when I see you not use new hardware, etc., it reminds me why I do my own work. It's also why I'm unsubscribing. it's not about this video, it's all your videos. Do it by the book, or don't post it for the world to see.
Reminds me of a day a few years back @ home. My buds daughters 2014 Camry sporty coupe, need brake pads, and 4 new tires. So we tag team the brakes, each on 1 opposite sides. He ain't stupid, and can do basic mechanic work, as he does on his work car. So, we get done, and head out to a tire shop 4 miles or so away. He's driving , and I hear a scrape noise on the driver side he did the brakes on hmmmm...
Jokingly, I ask, "you sure you put the pads in right??.....Yeah he says, so as we go along, it gets louder and louder! At the tire shop, he goes to a store near by to break a $20 for a tip. So once the guys yank off the wheels, I go check, and sure enough, he put 1 pad in backwards. I borrowed a 13 mm wrench and screwdriver from the tire guy to take it apart.....The back metal side was rubbing the rotor YIKES!! Luckily we hadn't driven too far, so the rotor was still ok, just a little scratched up !
I flipped the pads around correctly, and took a pic of it to show him, once he got back from the store hahahaha. Oh man did I give him crap for a couple days on his boo-boo lol, I couldn't believe he actually messed up !!
For all my pre 1967 VW beetles over the years, I always installed studs in my drums/rotors..Makes it lot easier putting the wheels on too lol Besides I always had high performance engines/trannies in them.. Besides wheel studs were safer, I hated those VW wheel bolts !