Gotta love engineers...I'm surprised that you got the expansion block out but it looks like they designed to be serviced from the outside. The screen and desiccant bag didn't look too bad, I've done some that were completely plugged. From the looks of the oil, the compressor failure was quick, which is always a blessing lol. I always charge low side, learned that in school.
Car A/C videos always seem to interest me. You got lucky getting that expansion valve out and back in without having to remove part of the dash. Great job!
The first compressor I replaced in a 79 1 ton Chev, I bought a rebuilt compressor from a premier auto parts supplier. After reading over all the instructions I could find, I understood contamination was the biggest enemy. So when I took the cover off the rebuilt compressor, I was surprised to see the residual oil in the compressor was already full of contamination. After replacing several compressors, I bought a new one. The rebuilders must live and work in a place with dirt floors with their animals and don’t have access to cleaning equipment because I’ve not found a supposedly rebuilt compressor that did not have visible contamination in the oil. I had a hard time convincing the parts suppliers that they were getting crap overhauls because they worked hard to only sell good stuff.
Most of us in the DIY world are one broken bolt away from exceeding our skill set. So, we find it really valuable to watch a pro deal with adversity. Just when you start to get angry and frustrated at how your day is going, remember us, and keep the camera rolling, ha ha.
I work on refrigeration systems all the time and filled up spray bottles with the oils and fluids I use every day. Way easier to handle that way and always stays clean inside.
I use my A/C nearly every second day. Even in winter. About 5 minutes a time. The reason being it keeps the refrigerant moving through the system and more importantly the seals moist. Dry seals do not seal. Plug out a domestic fridge for a month or 2 and you may scrap it because the seals dried out and gas escaped.
That's a good practice! The manufacturers realized that years ago, I believe, sometime in the 80s. The AC will cycle in all modes except "vent" even if you don't have the AC on. Thanks for your comment & keep wrenching 🔧
Here in Australia my air con man changes the TX valve every time he does a recharge & if it was me in the driveway I would not have changed that one (the TX valve on both my vehicles is easy to access in the engine bay) Cheers Kenny.
Compressors never go bad on their own, they’re always murdered. The problem is you don’t know if that TX valve is bad even if it looks good. Just a tiny fragment that gets stuck in the valve could destroy that new compressor.
27:19 To you old and new guys using a machine with an integrated scale. If you let the tank rest against other objects it can throw the weight calculation off for when you are charging the system. You can over or under charge a system if you have this oversight. Undercharging can result in low-side pressures that are too low, poor cooling in high temperatures, short cycling of the clutch, freezing line leading to the expansion valve. For overcharging a system you can see very high high-side pressures, a noisy compressor, high pressure blow-offs, poor cooling when hot outside and freezing of the compressor body.
It's amazing how much suction/holding power those 'O' rings have on parts keeping them from coming apart when you want them to. I agree with another subscriber that the compressor clutch may have seized. I had a Honda Accord compressor clutch break off the front of the compressor at highway speed and I found it a miracle that it didn't blow a hole through the hood as it hit so hard. The clutch fell off and was just laying there at the front of the engine under the hood! Honda engineers need higher quality compressors. Not sure if Honda and Toyota use different brands.
Aerosol cans of AC Flush do exist, I have used that. But I can count how many times I've used an open end adjustable wrench on a vehicle repair in the last 4 decades on one of 3-Finger Mordecai Brown's hands !!! Yes, install new schraeder valves and good caps.
Just wondering, did you add any oil to the system and or does that compressor come with the proper amount of oil? Can you trust that the compressor has the proper amount of oil? Thanks Kenny, was a very informative video.
Most A/C systems have too much oil in them when they end up at a shop because customers or others have been putting oil and dye in the systems while filling them to mask the leak. Some compressors come with oil inside and some do not. Kenny did a nearly complete removal and re installation of this system and if he had ran some cleaner through the evaporator and blown it out with compressed air he would be starting with an oil free system. From there you can decide how much oil to add. Oil can be added to the refrigerant charge by the A/C machine or manually when reassembling the system. I prefer to add it before assembly so I can pull a vacuum on the oil.
Changing the valves is a personal preference. Doing so can save you time and headache or introduce problems that cost you time and cause headaches ( like when the valves break in two inside the body during removal). OR!!! You can use a bubble solution on the low side when not operating or a bubble solution on the high side valve when operating to check for leaks. Personally if i can tell I'm the first or only person in the system I bubble test. If others have been attaching hoses and injecting dye or the caps are missing I would replace the valves to rule out trash contamination at the valve.
THANK YOU KENNY FOR CONFIRMING A LOW SIDE CHARGE, SO MANY NEW SCHOOL TECHS CHARGE ON THE HI SIDE, I KNOW IT CAN BE DONE EITHER WAY HOWEVER... WHY WOULDN'T YOU WANT TO CHARGE ON THE SUCTION SIDE ? 313
Charge on high side to not wash the oil out of the compressor and have a small chance of hydrolocking the compressor on start up. That's why. If it's already running as you charge it then low side is the only option due to the pressure on the high side as it is working. It's not really an interesting subject to talk about.
The compressor clunch may have locked up - not the compressor itself, so metal may not be in the system. Btw, that escort has been on the lift for a minute )
They are the same oils with different viscosity. You simply check the manufacturers recommendations. Edge case are old compressors from the 90s may want a thicker oil if they are converted. Personally I uses a thinner oil in all climates as it's easier for the refrigerant to pick it up and circulate in low temperature operation like defrosting in the winter time. The other edge case is I use a POE oil in newer cars with electric compressors.
Hey brother Kenny, I'm not sure of the reason why but having owned Hondas and Toyotas, Honda seems to have a lot of catastrophic failures with their air conditioning compressors whereas Toyota has a lot fewer. They both have about an equal amount of loss of refrigerant issues. I always personally wondered if they use different refrigerant oil and possibly Honda uses less oil. If they can get you passed the warranty period, the cost of repairs is on you the owner. I had a 1991 Lexus LS400 that cost $1700 to repair and the repair lasted one summer only! Pretty pathetic! Being older and remembering the days when it was rare to have air conditioning, you quickly get used to putting the windows down quickly. At least I have heat in the winter cold...thankfully.
I usually get like 13 years out of my Toyota and pre-2010 Nissan compressors and power steering pumps . The Honda ac compressors and powering steering pumps always seemed weaker to me than Toyota and older Nissan. But of course, newer Nissan parts are worse than Honda since the French company got rid of Japanese parts in Nissan.
your lucky just a locked compressor its real mess when the desiccant bag ruptures if do have flush use compressed air or more professional job use nitrogen the vacuum test is tell if you leaking what if you pinched a oring or had a defective component it would show in the vacuum test use a spray bottle with soap and water i prefer blue dawn but make professional big blue for gas leaks spray the lines and compressor find bubbles you have leaks
What !! What was the temp in the car kenny 🤨 is not a happy ending if we dont know the temperatute in the car . After Replacing condenser compressor and expansion valve ...the temp supposed to be at least 42 F Please kenny dont make videos without a happy ending..maybe temperature in the car was more than 70 F ....lots of money wasted for 70 F 🤨
He said it was nice and cold, good enough for me sitting here at my desk. The low side gauge was reading 20 or so PSI. That is below freezing at the evaporator and would be around 40-50 at the vents. The car was also cold and the shop air is air conditioned so there's not much heat load on the system. While cold that's also cold enough to freeze the evaporator in ice and result in poor airflow and cooling inside the car at idle. What ever happened Kenny made it right. He's been doing this for decades.
![F.HERO Ft. JSPKK x ลำไย ไหทองคำ x M-PEE - ไม่สนิทบิดหมด (Thai Riders Anthem) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kPJZ0UihBfk/mqdefault.jpg)
Gotta love engineers...I'm surprised that you got the expansion block out but it looks like they designed to be serviced from the outside. The screen and desiccant bag didn't look too bad, I've done some that were completely plugged. From the looks of the oil, the compressor failure was quick, which is always a blessing lol. I always charge low side, learned that in school.
Car A/C videos always seem to interest me. You got lucky getting that expansion valve out and back in without having to remove part of the dash. Great job!
The first compressor I replaced in a 79 1 ton Chev, I bought a rebuilt compressor from a premier auto parts supplier. After reading over all the instructions I could find, I understood contamination was the biggest enemy. So when I took the cover off the rebuilt compressor, I was surprised to see the residual oil in the compressor was already full of contamination. After replacing several compressors, I bought a new one. The rebuilders must live and work in a place with dirt floors with their animals and don’t have access to cleaning equipment because I’ve not found a supposedly rebuilt compressor that did not have visible contamination in the oil. I had a hard time convincing the parts suppliers that they were getting crap overhauls because they worked hard to only sell good stuff.
nice job. the compressor shaft seal is a common leak spot
Nice job Kenny, I need to change the evaporator coil on my Jeep Commander. I am not looking forward to it. The whole dash has to come out.
You are correct, somethings will not leak under a vacuum but will under pressure.
Most of us in the DIY world are one broken bolt away from exceeding our skill set. So, we find it really valuable to watch a pro deal with adversity. Just when you start to get angry and frustrated at how your day is going, remember us, and keep the camera rolling, ha ha.
I work on refrigeration systems all the time and filled up spray bottles with the oils and fluids I use every day. Way easier to handle that way and always stays clean inside.
Forget the leak down test. We'll put dye in it.😅😅😅 I agree with you, Kenny. Good job.
Good job. I did the same job on my Honda civic with a K24 last year, the worst part was removing the evaporator.
What about the oil? How did you calculate how much to put in?
I use my A/C nearly every second day.
Even in winter. About 5 minutes a time.
The reason being it keeps the refrigerant moving through the system and more importantly the seals moist.
Dry seals do not seal.
Plug out a domestic fridge for a month or 2 and you may scrap it because the seals dried out and gas escaped.
That's a good practice! The manufacturers realized that years ago, I believe, sometime in the 80s. The AC will cycle in all modes except "vent" even if you don't have the AC on. Thanks for your comment & keep wrenching 🔧
I’d love to get those guys that design car components to work on them for a month then see how much easier they become to work on 😎😎😎😎
You got that right.
Blame the styling guys. They come up with a look they want and the poor engineer has to fit everything inside that style. I know this from experience.
Here in Australia my air con man changes the TX valve every time he does a recharge & if it was me in the driveway I would not have changed that one (the TX valve on both my vehicles is easy to access in the engine bay) Cheers Kenny.
Compressors never go bad on their own, they’re always murdered. The problem is you don’t know if that TX valve is bad even if it looks good. Just a tiny fragment that gets stuck in the valve could destroy that new compressor.
Must be nice to work in a air conditioned and heated shop!
I try to always charge both when using the machine but old school way when notably need however I always use anti seize on aluminum
Saw sparkly metal on the filter plug for dessicant bag housing.
Why Honda put the expansion valve inside the car instead in motor bay??? Amazing!!!
27:19 To you old and new guys using a machine with an integrated scale. If you let the tank rest against other objects it can throw the weight calculation off for when you are charging the system. You can over or under charge a system if you have this oversight.
Undercharging can result in low-side pressures that are too low, poor cooling in high temperatures, short cycling of the clutch, freezing line leading to the expansion valve.
For overcharging a system you can see very high high-side pressures, a noisy compressor, high pressure blow-offs, poor cooling when hot outside and freezing of the compressor body.
Wow,no black death inside the hole,I'm surprised. Not an ac guy but I know what most blown compressors looks like. Good luck Mr Kenny
Brilliant mechanic, most would drop that dash. I would have been one of them
It's amazing how much suction/holding power those 'O' rings have on parts keeping them from coming apart when you want them to. I agree with another subscriber that the compressor clutch may have seized. I had a Honda Accord compressor clutch break off the front of the compressor at highway speed and I found it a miracle that it didn't blow a hole through the hood as it hit so hard. The clutch fell off and was just laying there at the front of the engine under the hood! Honda engineers need higher quality compressors. Not sure if Honda and Toyota use different brands.
Aerosol cans of AC Flush do exist, I have used that. But I can count how many times I've used an open end adjustable wrench on a vehicle repair in the last 4 decades on one of 3-Finger Mordecai Brown's hands !!! Yes, install new schraeder valves and good caps.
Thank you for the video. 👍
Taking the radiator fan cooling engines out gave you plenty of room.
Great job Kenny!
The last mechanic must have actually left the orange stickers on.
Just wondering, did you add any oil to the system and or does that compressor come with the proper amount of oil? Can you trust that the compressor has the proper amount of oil? Thanks Kenny, was a very informative video.
Most A/C systems have too much oil in them when they end up at a shop because customers or others have been putting oil and dye in the systems while filling them to mask the leak.
Some compressors come with oil inside and some do not. Kenny did a nearly complete removal and re installation of this system and if he had ran some cleaner through the evaporator and blown it out with compressed air he would be starting with an oil free system. From there you can decide how much oil to add.
Oil can be added to the refrigerant charge by the A/C machine or manually when reassembling the system. I prefer to add it before assembly so I can pull a vacuum on the oil.
Did you change the Schrader valve
Doesn't look like it. Yikes.
Probably did it off camera.
Changing the valves is a personal preference. Doing so can save you time and headache or introduce problems that cost you time and cause headaches ( like when the valves break in two inside the body during removal). OR!!! You can use a bubble solution on the low side when not operating or a bubble solution on the high side valve when operating to check for leaks.
Personally if i can tell I'm the first or only person in the system I bubble test. If others have been attaching hoses and injecting dye or the caps are missing I would replace the valves to rule out trash contamination at the valve.
We used to call catastrophic compressor failure "black death".
Fords
THANK YOU KENNY FOR CONFIRMING A LOW SIDE CHARGE, SO MANY NEW SCHOOL TECHS CHARGE ON THE HI SIDE, I KNOW IT CAN BE DONE EITHER WAY HOWEVER... WHY WOULDN'T YOU WANT TO CHARGE ON THE SUCTION SIDE ? 313
Just a heads up. All caps are noted as screaming.
Charge on high side to not wash the oil out of the compressor and have a small chance of hydrolocking the compressor on start up. That's why. If it's already running as you charge it then low side is the only option due to the pressure on the high side as it is working.
It's not really an interesting subject to talk about.
Hacks figure it out as they go along. Hacks are full of confidence while the wise are open to doubt.
Engineers designed the car not to be repaired.
That bending over stuff is hard on your back…..
The compressor clunch may have locked up - not the compressor itself, so metal may not be in the system. Btw, that escort has been on the lift for a minute )
PAG-46 or PAG-100?
They are the same oils with different viscosity. You simply check the manufacturers recommendations. Edge case are old compressors from the 90s may want a thicker oil if they are converted.
Personally I uses a thinner oil in all climates as it's easier for the refrigerant to pick it up and circulate in low temperature operation like defrosting in the winter time.
The other edge case is I use a POE oil in newer cars with electric compressors.
Nothing wrong with charging on the low side. It’s a feature on the machine, so why not use it?
Just takes a minute or three longer.
@@SeanBZA 👍Exactly!
Hey brother Kenny, I'm not sure of the reason why but having owned Hondas and Toyotas, Honda seems to have a lot of catastrophic failures with their air conditioning compressors whereas Toyota has a lot fewer. They both have about an equal amount of loss of refrigerant issues. I always personally wondered if they use different refrigerant oil and possibly Honda uses less oil. If they can get you passed the warranty period, the cost of repairs is on you the owner. I had a 1991 Lexus LS400 that cost $1700 to repair and the repair lasted one summer only! Pretty pathetic!
Being older and remembering the days when it was rare to have air conditioning, you quickly get used to putting the windows down quickly. At least I have heat in the winter cold...thankfully.
I usually get like 13 years out of my Toyota and pre-2010 Nissan compressors and power steering pumps . The Honda ac compressors and powering steering pumps always seemed weaker to me than Toyota and older Nissan. But of course, newer Nissan parts are worse than Honda since the French company got rid of Japanese parts in Nissan.
your lucky just a locked compressor its real mess when the desiccant bag ruptures if do have flush use compressed air or more professional job use nitrogen the vacuum test is tell if you leaking what if you pinched a oring or had a defective component it would show in the vacuum test use a spray bottle with soap and water i prefer blue dawn but make professional big blue for gas leaks spray the lines and compressor find bubbles you have leaks
Hahaha hang on, this might get ugly.
What !! What was the temp in the car kenny 🤨 is not a happy ending if we dont know the temperatute in the car . After Replacing condenser compressor and expansion valve ...the temp supposed to be at least 42 F Please kenny dont make videos without a happy ending..maybe temperature in the car was more than 70 F ....lots of money wasted for 70 F 🤨
He said it was nice and cold, good enough for me sitting here at my desk.
The low side gauge was reading 20 or so PSI. That is below freezing at the evaporator and would be around 40-50 at the vents. The car was also cold and the shop air is air conditioned so there's not much heat load on the system.
While cold that's also cold enough to freeze the evaporator in ice and result in poor airflow and cooling inside the car at idle.
What ever happened Kenny made it right. He's been doing this for decades.
@@btwbrand yeah right 🤥
Eric from south main replace the clutch in a honda and the thermometer was 32 F and guy from 1ROAD was 41 F in the thermometer ... 🤓