Kenny, this has to be one of the best videos I've yet seen about a rear drum brake job. You may think you're not so great at presentation, but far from it, you are very good! I love how you take the time to do the job "the right way" rather than take shortcuts and get the car out of the shop as quickly as possible. This customer received a great, high quality repair service from you. The drum brakes, axle seals, rear diff service, it was all great to see.
Do you remember when wheel cylinder kit were available in over size? They also included a little bubble of assembly lube for the rubber cup and piston. I remember my first encounter with disk brakes. '71 Plymouth. The rotor was roughen up by metal on metal. I took an angle grinder, when I put the grinding wheel on the disk, it started rotating. Perfect! New surface! Was it too thin? Probably. It lasted the life if the car. LoL 😂😆 I was probably 15-17 years old.
Yes still remember using those kits, and even rebuilding master cylinders, as those also had kits. There were a few engineering companies that also did sleeves, making the bore standard size again, and stainless steel, so it would not need oversize kits. They are common in vingage and veteran vehicle repair, as often you cannot get the original part any more, so either resleeve the cylinders and get seals, or you have to modify (a sin in the classic car show market) to use a compatible modern unit. Even did rebuild a few Morris Minor indicator stalks, rewinding the coils that had burnt out, using modern enamelled wire which had a much higher temperature rating over the old varnished wire, so the new winding would not fail again. Getting those old rivets out was a pain, especially if you needed to get the rusted ones out intact.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Yes! I also remember that the failure rate of the rebuilt cylinders was higher than I liked. Now days it must be less expensive to just replace them.
Nicely done. I have 3 vintage pony cars, 1969 Shelby GT500, 1973 Mustang Convertible, and 1973 Mach 1 Mustang. I had occasion to replace the front disc rotors and pads when a Right Front outer wheel bearing seized up and ended up welding the inner race to the steering knuckle spindle. I did replace the rotors and pads, as well as all inner and outer wheel bearings (Timken brand, of course) on both the left and right side, although the Left Side brake pads and rotor looked like they were in good shape. Same for the wheel bearings. When it comes to brakes and bearings, what I do to one side I do the other, for preventive purposes if no other reason. I did note the brake fluid is still fairly clear in all vehicles opened the Master Cylinder cap to see), and decided to not flush it on any of the pony cars. But, I also noted the hydraulic rubber hoses for the brake calipers were beginning to have some checking on the outer surfaces. So, a few weeks after repairing the wheel bearings and replacing the front pads and rotors, decided to I order new hydraulic brake hoses for the front and rear brake lines. I also decided to flush the old brake fluid out and put in new DOT 3 brake fluid, mostly because after 50+ years of use I prefer have fresh fluid after opening up the hydraulic system to replace the rubber hoses.. I mention this because you commented that you are a proponent of flushing and replacing brake fluid every so often, I am not too hung up on flushing and replacing brake fluid at a specific interval of miles. I prefer to look at the fluid to see if it is still a golden amber color and clear. If it has begun to darken I will definitely replace it. I have also ordered a device that evaluates the moisture content of brake fluid, as well as a brake fluid test strips to test for the quality of the fluid even if there is not moisture intrusion. There is another thing I would replace fluid for, in conjunction with replacing a leaking wheel cylinder, caliper/piston seal, or hydraulic brake hoses - as at that time it is very possible there has been some moisture contamination from exposure to the atmosphere. In the larger scheme of things, replacing the brake fluid is not going to do any harm, as long as it is done using the correct fluid and preformed properly. The brake fluid moisture testing device, and chemical test strips I ordered (and will use to test the brake fluid on our pony cars before replacing the fluid and hydraulic hoses) is from an Amazon vendor: Brake Fluid Liquid Tester Pen Brake Fluid Test Strips Hey, an important aside. Here is a shout out to you with lots of Kudos! I truly enjoy your down to earth diagnostic and repair techniques. I was involved in auto repair in the 70s and 80s, after getting an A.S. degree for automotive technology. I went to every possible factory training from Ford and Lincoln I could, and even to a Mopar training session despite having worked at a Ford dealership back then. I feel one can never get too much training, and never learn too much. Lynda (wife) and I have posted quite a few How To videos on TH-cam (also), mostly covering diagnosing and repairing vintage, first generation Mustangs and Shelbys (1965.5 - 1973). Seeing your videos is inspiring, truly. My TH-cam channel, for anyone interested in those older pony cars, is at: th-cam.com/channels/YzXvUaH0ph4c_O9dR9a1sw.html
Nice thorough vid Kenny. In the northern climates you would have had to replace the backing plates because of rust. The parking brake cables would be frozen and you'd be having a ton more fun. Bet you miss those days.
This Has to be The best, most informative and in depth explanation of these types of brakes... hands down the best I have seen in all my years. You did a superb job showing this mate. Thank you.
I guess if wheels are so far out of adjustment that shoes don't make contact, you don't wear down the shoes or drums very quickly. Gotta think that the owner was driving for tens of thousands of miles with only front brakes. This video was really well done, with the best blow by blow assembly of drum shoes I've ever found. The last time I had an axle seal leak I was stupid enough to only do one side. Years later I had to go back and repeat.
Hi Kenny, great video! One thing I do is to assemble the brake adjuster and spring on the bench beforehand and then spring them onto the backing plate. The spring tension holds everything in place while you assemble the rest. I work from the top down to remove and the bottom up to replace. Keep wrenching!
These newer drum brakes are a finger torture chamber. Got blood blisters just watching! Made all the better with that wonderful EPA friendly brake cleaner! Have to LOVE that stuff… Keep up the great video work. The quality improves with each upload!!
I am a mechanic also,,,FYI - replacement recommended every 2 years (as you know ) is more critical in many environments, (higher heat and moisture than you are accustomed to) I now use DOT 5.1, it meets all specs. Of DOT 3 and DOT 4, is compatable with them and is much less hydroscopic and has a much higher boiling temp. This saves my customers money in the long run, ( corrosion in wheel cylinders and calipers and more expensive anti lock valves ) P.R.Dutton PhD (Mech. Engineering)
Yes, most manufacturers recommend replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. I believe most of the hydraulic components would not fail if the fluid gets changed before it gets dirty and contaminated with excessive moisture. I have not followed the maintenance intervals and the master cylinders seem to pay the price for it. However, I do purge the system when the fluid gets dark. The DOT 5.1 fluid interests me but I'm concerned about how it will react to old seals that have been used with the DOT 4 chemistry for so long.
Nice job !! Glad my Ranger has discs in the back. I never liked doing drum brakes. All day job for me. It was good to say how even you look at the other side. I'd always use the other side for a reference.
You're correct Kenny, drum brakes are a bit of a Rube Goldberg contraption. I'm gonna be dealing with them for a while, with 4 G bodies and a Chevelle. I've had those same spring tools for almost 50 years. I REALLY hate the clip that holds the wheel cylinder on the G bodies. Thanks for the video.
I had a 1975 Blazer that I bought when it was 1 year old. I did rear brakes several times as well as axel bearings once and those clips were still on the studs when I sold the truck because I always put them back after working on the brakes. So, yeah, it happens. BTW, I had the truck from 1976 until 2004 and it had 179.000 miles on it.
I went to a vocational high school and took auto mechanics. I won first place in VICA speed and skill and assembling brakes was one part. I could put that together in mere seconds.
Kenny your brake tool is a 1987. I have a 1989 I bought off the Snap On truck at the Goodyear shop where I worked in Houston that year. I'm not a pro mechanic but that thing and the spring depressor tool have paid for themselves many times since then.
I'm 65 years old now and my second car was a 73 Duster. And if I'm not mistaken it had drum brakes front and rear. I believe the front ones had bigger drums and shoes than the rear , it was a long time ago. I've changed those and they're a lot of fun.
Thats actually a great point on a different video !! I take multiple photos when doing something I'm not used to and afraid I may forget how something goes back together !! Thanks for the suggestion and look forward to that being part of a future video !!
Just did my rear drum brakes for the first time on my '97 F150 at 139k miles. Still had plenty of pad left and nothing leaking. I wish I had this video to watch beforehand. Woulda saved me a lot of wailing and gnashing of teeth! No fun the first time ever doing drum brakes!
Launch sells it with 2 years free updates at the moment, which is very nice. Most of the time updates are really to cover newer models, the old ones are still going to work even after the 2 years are up.
I this case nobody had been in there before but I've seen plenty of shoes put on backwards by the last guy, so going by what you see may not be right. Good vid Ken!
I've done brake shoe brakes maybe a dozen times in my 50 years of driving. I always do one side at a time in case I am not sure how to put it back together. When I did my first brake pads in the late 80's, it was so much easier than shoe brakes. I do the brake pads one side at a time, I guess just out of habit.
This is awesome video brings back so many memories of teaching so many people how to do this stuff... Intresting you didn't show you Mac line wrench link Snap-On tools and for anyone reading this comment the Snap-On tool for the long springs 100% a must. Last comment to Kenny have you ever considered a One-shot can ( I think that is what they were called ) and a 5 gallon of your brake clean.. You manually fill can and air pressure and push button ?
Locking pliers work pretty well to install the springs. I do admit having the proper tools make it easier but the cost of Snap On these days is beyond ridiculous. Especially now that Snap On is making tools in the same factories in Taiwan that the budget friendly tools are being made, I simply don't see the value in Snap On when they are offshoring manufacturing and making record profits. I will only buy the Snap On tools still made in the USA or I will buy the same offshore tool with a different brand lasered onto it.
@@davidparker9676 I personally own a lot of different brands of tool everything from Craftsman, Harbor Freight on up to Snap-On but have to say they all have their own twist and something's work some don't. The tool for the long spring is best in Snap-On my hold down spring tool I think is Mac or Craftsman so just get what works for you
Great job Kenny, but when I see an axel seal blown out I always check the axel breather is not blocked or rusted up, also never let brake fluid run all over the tyres buddy it's nasty stuff
I've got a 2014 journey with 207,000 miles on it and have owned it since it had 23,000 miles on it. It still has the factory brakes on it. I started to change them a couple of times did an inspection and determined the pads and rotors were still good. I have the new parts in the cabinet but not changing them yet.
If my wife(or probably yours too) they would have been replaced long ago. She stays on the accelerator until she switches to the brake pedal, never any coasting.
I think you are right its 87, I have a similar tool I think its a lisle but have had it from the 80s as well, I actually had to dig it up last month to do the brakes on my F100, been a long time since I did a set of drums ! Patience is the key
I have 232k on my work car and have not had to touch breaks yet. All interstate and country roads. If they aren't used much they don't get damaged as bad.
There was an old car I had where the springs that were over the self adjuster had a left and right side spring so that they did not rub on anything. They were a mirror image of each other, the long straight end had to be on the outward side of the coiled up part of spring.
Love how they use stop light colors red, yellow, and green, for the new springs lol And yes, brake fluid IS Hudroscopic!! Just like diesel fuel. God bless~
Hi Kenny, you also reached 200,000, happy birthday to you :-) nice to see your videos, greetings from Denmark. i'm messing with a 1973 CADILLAC ELDORADO myself. it's having a hard time, not mine but, helping out a friend. I'm a 1966 version myself :-) do you have any tips regarding uneven engine running. there is a ton on the v8 that needs to be made. but drive, carburetor setting you have a bid. it says 4 rounds of basic setting in the shop manual. there are others who have messed with the car before I can see and a sea of vaccum hoses I have also changed, what is the ignition timing on this skate, and is it with or without vaccum. finally come up with old stories, even think of something in my youth nice Kenny
I get the Keystone Cops reference. I'm pretty sure I look ridiculous, especially the third, fourth, eighth time I try to catch then try to find, one or more of the return springs when they slip off the post and fly off into the unknown. Really a bummer when I'm doing it outside in the snow. I should probably get one of those tools....
When i was driving my honda. Even after i replaced my brakes front and back and bleed them too. The brake pedal needed less travel than when i bought it used. But there was still more travel than when i bought a new car. On the new car there is literally no travel and it works immediately. I like it now than what my honda had. The problem would probably be the brake master cylinder or the booster huh.
Do you suggest doing a ABS bleed with you scanner when doing the slave cylinders? I did a ABS brake bleed and it blew a hole in my brake line....the line was rusted at the point of the leak.
I'd rather it blow when on the lift then when driving . That's for certain!! I usually only do an automated scanner bleed when their was possibly air in the system or the pedal doesn't feel quite right . The pedal felt perfect on this one
Hey Kenny I didn't see you put the final wrenching on the retainer bolt between the Spider Gears, last I saw it was about a 1/4" from being seated! Meybe check your video? I had one come out on an old F-250 Ford and total destruction took place. Wasn't my fault, previous owner was a dirtbag.
Great video I am shocked by how many people use power steering fluid instead of brake fluid I seen guy putting it in a car the other day I said something to him and he told me that a mechanic told him that it was okay because they were the same thing
Never herd that one before! they must have learned that Bad idea on the internet????? to the best of my limited knowledge : "Severe damage results from even the smallest amount of petroleum-based fluid added to the brake system. Oil-based fluid causes the rubber in the braking system to swell and very rapidly deteriorate".
Quick question, since there is 200,000 miles on the truck why not go ahead and just put new bearings in the axle tubes while its already apart and accessible?
Lot of the times with drum brakes I will be taking the shoes and drum to the reliner, so that I can get a skim and a new set of linings bonded and shaped to the drum. Some vehicles, like VW Golf and Toyota Corolla, not worth relining, as the new drums and linings are so cheap, because they are so common.
i have a question how does the moisture from the air get into the brake fluid when its a sealed unit?,unless you have a leak that is. i know it does but it doesn't make sence.
Never mind the pictures. Before we had cell phones you just did one side at at time. Then you could look at the intact side to see how to put it back together. But good video as are all of yours.
Hey Kenny, just little Note: You can take that clip off Primary brake for E- brake with good screw driver before you get brakes off truck Save you fron Hurting you knuckles or fingers holding brake in your hand ✋️ it good "thought" and touch lube on the star adjuster great thing. Otherwise great video Kenny
My first car had drum brakes all round. Replaced the shoes on a driveway DIY ,using any old tool that came to hand and without a Haynes manual or any other help. What a total pain in the arse.! Never again.! Disc brakes are wonderful. I am led to understand that car makers are worrying drivers into flushing brake fluid every two years, simply as a nice cost addition to normal servicing.
When I was a young mechanic and before there was brake clean I would wash the drums and shoes with gasoline and dry them with a rag and then take wood stove ashes and rub inside the drums and shoes and dump the ashes out and reassemble with no grabbing of the brakes when pedal was applied
What vehicle is that from, I thought this could be my problem, so I called auto zone to price the wheel cylinder and they said 02 Silverado isn't equipped with them,
I have the cheaper scan tools I'm going to purchase the launch Scan tool If you can please use that so that I can learn how to better navigate the tool
8:50 Things I have learned from Kenny 1. Catch all your bolts before tightening any of them down. This wiggle room makes reassembly much easier. 2. Don’t bang your head into the leaf spring. That hurts.
Why? I don't know ! Said that many times wrenching on vehicle's. You should do a meet and greet cookout or something. I'm from Wilmington. Many of uus who watch your videos would like to meet the mechanic that you helps us get through many shade tree jobs. Thanks again !
Your comment about taking Pictures so you will know how drum brakes is good tocay but when I learned some 55 years ago I was told do one side at a time so if you are not sure you can look at the other side
Big shoe back and smaller shoe front is NOT always the rule Many Fords and some other makes up to the mid 60's Have the big shoe toward the front and the smaller shoe toward the back. This is the case with our 1949 Ford and 1953 Ford.
Taking the brake assemblies appart, you r hands got lpretty messy. I notice how clean they are when everything is going back together. You might explain this . Keeps dirty hand printsfrom appearing on your new brakes. I used to use brake cleaner on my hands😢
What you’re doing is great!! Don’t use time lapse - it’s really irritating and pointless. I like Questionable Garage too - but Jared uses too much time lapse. If you are going to use time lapse put a commentary over it - Chris Slix does that very well. Cheers enjoy the channel very much.
Fastest 44 minutes of my day. Love that Kenny is sensitive to background noise, no music, good audio, practically no editing, really good ride along.
Kenny, this has to be one of the best videos I've yet seen about a rear drum brake job. You may think you're not so great at presentation, but far from it, you are very good! I love how you take the time to do the job "the right way" rather than take shortcuts and get the car out of the shop as quickly as possible. This customer received a great, high quality repair service from you. The drum brakes, axle seals, rear diff service, it was all great to see.
I concur.
My early days of wrenching, disc brakes were a new and strange thing. We usually rebuilt the wheel cylinders.
Do you remember when wheel cylinder kit were available in over size? They also included a little bubble of assembly lube for the rubber cup and piston.
I remember my first encounter with disk brakes. '71 Plymouth. The rotor was roughen up by metal on metal. I took an angle grinder, when I put the grinding wheel on the disk, it started rotating. Perfect! New surface! Was it too thin? Probably. It lasted the life if the car. LoL 😂😆 I was probably 15-17 years old.
Yes still remember using those kits, and even rebuilding master cylinders, as those also had kits. There were a few engineering companies that also did sleeves, making the bore standard size again, and stainless steel, so it would not need oversize kits. They are common in vingage and veteran vehicle repair, as often you cannot get the original part any more, so either resleeve the cylinders and get seals, or you have to modify (a sin in the classic car show market) to use a compatible modern unit. Even did rebuild a few Morris Minor indicator stalks, rewinding the coils that had burnt out, using modern enamelled wire which had a much higher temperature rating over the old varnished wire, so the new winding would not fail again. Getting those old rivets out was a pain, especially if you needed to get the rusted ones out intact.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Yes! I also remember that the failure rate of the rebuilt cylinders was higher than I liked. Now days it must be less expensive to just replace them.
@@SeanBZA Those were the days. I don't miss them much.
We had a kit with multiple size cups, rebuilding wheel cinders and calipers was standard practice in the old days.
Nicely done. I have 3 vintage pony cars, 1969 Shelby GT500, 1973 Mustang Convertible, and 1973 Mach 1 Mustang. I had occasion to replace the front disc rotors and pads when a Right Front outer wheel bearing seized up and ended up welding the inner race to the steering knuckle spindle. I did replace the rotors and pads, as well as all inner and outer wheel bearings (Timken brand, of course) on both the left and right side, although the Left Side brake pads and rotor looked like they were in good shape. Same for the wheel bearings. When it comes to brakes and bearings, what I do to one side I do the other, for preventive purposes if no other reason.
I did note the brake fluid is still fairly clear in all vehicles opened the Master Cylinder cap to see), and decided to not flush it on any of the pony cars. But, I also noted the hydraulic rubber hoses for the brake calipers were beginning to have some checking on the outer surfaces. So, a few weeks after repairing the wheel bearings and replacing the front pads and rotors, decided to I order new hydraulic brake hoses for the front and rear brake lines. I also decided to flush the old brake fluid out and put in new DOT 3 brake fluid, mostly because after 50+ years of use I prefer have fresh fluid after opening up the hydraulic system to replace the rubber hoses..
I mention this because you commented that you are a proponent of flushing and replacing brake fluid every so often, I am not too hung up on flushing and replacing brake fluid at a specific interval of miles. I prefer to look at the fluid to see if it is still a golden amber color and clear. If it has begun to darken I will definitely replace it. I have also ordered a device that evaluates the moisture content of brake fluid, as well as a brake fluid test strips to test for the quality of the fluid even if there is not moisture intrusion. There is another thing I would replace fluid for, in conjunction with replacing a leaking wheel cylinder, caliper/piston seal, or hydraulic brake hoses - as at that time it is very possible there has been some moisture contamination from exposure to the atmosphere. In the larger scheme of things, replacing the brake fluid is not going to do any harm, as long as it is done using the correct fluid and preformed properly. The brake fluid moisture testing device, and chemical test strips I ordered (and will use to test the brake fluid on our pony cars before replacing the fluid and hydraulic hoses) is from an Amazon vendor:
Brake Fluid Liquid Tester Pen
Brake Fluid Test Strips
Hey, an important aside. Here is a shout out to you with lots of Kudos! I truly enjoy your down to earth diagnostic and repair techniques. I was involved in auto repair in the 70s and 80s, after getting an A.S. degree for automotive technology. I went to every possible factory training from Ford and Lincoln I could, and even to a Mopar training session despite having worked at a Ford dealership back then. I feel one can never get too much training, and never learn too much. Lynda (wife) and I have posted quite a few How To videos on TH-cam (also), mostly covering diagnosing and repairing vintage, first generation Mustangs and Shelbys (1965.5 - 1973). Seeing your videos is inspiring, truly. My TH-cam channel, for anyone interested in those older pony cars, is at:
th-cam.com/channels/YzXvUaH0ph4c_O9dR9a1sw.html
Been fifteen years since I done drum brakes, You do them like i was taught. I did not haven the fancy spring tools like you have.
I remember my first drum brake job as a 15 year old and back then you couldn't take a picture but thank goodness for Chilton manuals😂.
Nice thorough vid Kenny. In the northern climates you would have had to replace the backing plates because of rust. The parking brake cables would be frozen and you'd be having a ton more fun. Bet you miss those days.
This Has to be The best, most informative and in depth explanation of these types of brakes... hands down the best I have seen in all my years. You did a superb job showing this mate. Thank you.
I guess if wheels are so far out of adjustment that shoes don't make contact, you don't wear down the shoes or drums very quickly. Gotta think that the owner was driving for tens of thousands of miles with only front brakes. This video was really well done, with the best blow by blow assembly of drum shoes I've ever found. The last time I had an axle seal leak I was stupid enough to only do one side. Years later I had to go back and repeat.
Thanks for the compliment!! Doing one side was how I learned too !!
I neglected to show it , but the front brakes were done recently
Hi Kenny, great video! One thing I do is to assemble the brake adjuster and spring on the bench beforehand and then spring them onto the backing plate. The spring tension holds everything in place while you assemble the rest. I work from the top down to remove and the bottom up to replace. Keep wrenching!
@23:00 Kenny said "You're Done." & my brain glitches to bootcamp in the 80s.
DI living rent free in the recesses of my mind.
Awesome job Kenny. 44 minutes just made my day.
These newer drum brakes are a finger torture chamber. Got blood blisters just watching! Made all the better with that wonderful EPA friendly brake cleaner! Have to LOVE that stuff… Keep up the great video work. The quality improves with each upload!!
The best drum brake service video I've watched. Thank you!
Man drum brakes make me feel green again! I'm 22 years old and I have not done many! 4 wheel brake job on a 2000ish s10 humbled me this week
A really great teaching video regarding drum brakes. Thank you so much brother Kenny!
Hey thanks really enjoy your class on the rangers I have 3 of them.PS I enjoy all of the videos brother keep on wrenching LOL 😁
Nice video. Very thorough explanation and tips.👍
I am a mechanic also,,,FYI - replacement recommended every 2 years (as you know ) is more critical in many environments, (higher heat and moisture than you are accustomed to) I now use DOT 5.1, it meets all specs. Of DOT 3 and DOT 4, is compatable with them and is much less hydroscopic and has a much higher boiling temp. This saves my customers money in the long run, ( corrosion in wheel cylinders and calipers and more expensive anti lock valves )
P.R.Dutton PhD (Mech. Engineering)
Yes, most manufacturers recommend replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. I believe most of the hydraulic components would not fail if the fluid gets changed before it gets dirty and contaminated with excessive moisture.
I have not followed the maintenance intervals and the master cylinders seem to pay the price for it.
However, I do purge the system when the fluid gets dark.
The DOT 5.1 fluid interests me but I'm concerned about how it will react to old seals that have been used with the DOT 4 chemistry for so long.
Nice job !! Glad my Ranger has discs in the back. I never liked doing drum brakes. All day job for me. It was good to say how even you look at the other side. I'd always use the other side for a reference.
You're correct Kenny, drum brakes are a bit of a Rube Goldberg contraption. I'm gonna be dealing with them for a while, with 4 G bodies and a Chevelle. I've had those same spring tools for almost 50 years. I REALLY hate the clip that holds the wheel cylinder on the G bodies. Thanks for the video.
I had a 1975 Blazer that I bought when it was 1 year old. I did rear brakes several times as well as axel bearings once and those clips were still on the studs when I sold the truck because I always put them back after working on the brakes. So, yeah, it happens. BTW, I had the truck from 1976 until 2004 and it had 179.000 miles on it.
At 1 year old, I was still in diapers.
@@bartsarton2212 My Blazer was never in diapers when it was 1 year old otherwise I would never have bought it. 😏
Love those special tools.
Nice Job Kenny.
If I tried to do that job without putting something like duck tape over the seal, I would end up contaminating the axle bearing.
For brake retainer spring, small vice grip needle nose works.
I went to a vocational high school and took auto mechanics. I won first place in VICA speed and skill and assembling brakes was one part. I could put that together in mere seconds.
Wow! That's awesome. Thanks for sharing. Keep wrenching 🔧
Love the videos! No need for gopro.. just my 2 cents. I'm not a mechanic, but you inspire me to dive into my own stuff. Thanks Kenny!
Rear shoes have always been a hassle for me, I will keep looking at the other side as a reference. Good step by step video, lots of information. 👍
same!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Kenny your brake tool is a 1987. I have a 1989 I bought off the Snap On truck at the Goodyear shop where I worked in Houston that year. I'm not a pro mechanic but that thing and the spring depressor tool have paid for themselves many times since then.
Good job Jenney I enjoyed watching that
I'm 65 years old now and my second car was a 73 Duster. And if I'm not mistaken it had drum brakes front and rear. I believe the front ones had bigger drums and shoes than the rear , it was a long time ago. I've changed those and they're a lot of fun.
Pictures??? If I take it apart I know how to put it back together!
Love your videos.
Thats actually a great point on a different video !! I take multiple photos when doing something I'm not used to and afraid I may forget how something goes back together !! Thanks for the suggestion and look forward to that being part of a future video !!
I like the way you film it there's no bs
Just did my rear drum brakes for the first time on my '97 F150 at 139k miles. Still had plenty of pad left and nothing leaking. I wish I had this video to watch beforehand. Woulda saved me a lot of wailing and gnashing of teeth! No fun the first time ever doing drum brakes!
Good evening Mr Kenny hope y'all had a wonderful day 😁
You are very much right in all you said about break fuild. I never keep it on the shelf for more than a few months.
Launch sells it with 2 years free updates at the moment, which is very nice. Most of the time updates are really to cover newer models, the old ones are still going to work even after the 2 years are up.
I this case nobody had been in there before but I've seen plenty of shoes put on backwards by the last guy, so going by what you see may not be right. Good vid Ken!
I've done brake shoe brakes maybe a dozen times in my 50 years of driving. I always do one side at a time in case I am not sure how to put it back together. When I did my first brake pads in the late 80's, it was so much easier than shoe brakes. I do the brake pads one side at a time, I guess just out of habit.
This is awesome video brings back so many memories of teaching so many people how to do this stuff...
Intresting you didn't show you Mac line wrench link Snap-On tools and for anyone reading this comment the Snap-On tool for the long springs 100% a must.
Last comment to Kenny have you ever considered a One-shot can ( I think that is what they were called ) and a 5 gallon of your brake clean..
You manually fill can and air pressure and push button ?
Locking pliers work pretty well to install the springs. I do admit having the proper tools make it easier but the cost of Snap On these days is beyond ridiculous. Especially now that Snap On is making tools in the same factories in Taiwan that the budget friendly tools are being made, I simply don't see the value in Snap On when they are offshoring manufacturing and making record profits.
I will only buy the Snap On tools still made in the USA or I will buy the same offshore tool with a different brand lasered onto it.
@@davidparker9676 I personally own a lot of different brands of tool everything from Craftsman, Harbor Freight on up to Snap-On but have to say they all have their own twist and something's work some don't. The tool for the long spring is best in Snap-On my hold down spring tool I think is Mac or Craftsman so just get what works for you
I always found it easier if you If you work on the horseshoe clip to open it before Before removing the springs.
Nice job.
Great job Kenny, but when I see an axel seal blown out I always check the axel breather is not blocked or rusted up, also never let brake fluid run all over the tyres buddy it's nasty stuff
I've got a 2014 journey with 207,000 miles on it and have owned it since it had 23,000 miles on it. It still has the factory brakes on it. I started to change them a couple of times did an inspection and determined the pads and rotors were still good. I have the new parts in the cabinet but not changing them yet.
If my wife(or probably yours too) they would have been replaced long ago. She stays on the accelerator until she switches to the brake pedal, never any coasting.
Looks like brake tool from 1987 according to snap on date chart and angle of 7. Quality tools worth every penny.
I think you are right its 87, I have a similar tool I think its a lisle but have had it from the 80s as well, I actually had to dig it up last month to do the brakes on my F100, been a long time since I did a set of drums ! Patience is the key
Good video keep em coming.
Thank You.
Kenny I understand what you are saying some mechanics put them back on the drum
I have 232k on my work car and have not had to touch breaks yet. All interstate and country roads. If they aren't used much they don't get damaged as bad.
Very true! Thanks for watching 🔧
I usually open that u clip that holds the parking brake lever while the shoe is held in place by the hold down spring.
There was an old car I had where the springs that were over the self adjuster had a left and right side spring so that they did not rub on anything. They were a mirror image of each other, the long straight end had to be on the outward side of the coiled up part of spring.
Nice job..
I just did mine on the ancient Ford Falcon
That spring you put on last i put on first to hold the shoes together then the cable and other springs
Love how they use stop light colors red, yellow, and green, for the new springs lol
And yes, brake fluid IS Hudroscopic!! Just like diesel fuel.
God bless~
Hi Kenny, you also reached 200,000, happy birthday to you :-) nice to see your videos, greetings from Denmark. i'm messing with a 1973 CADILLAC ELDORADO myself. it's having a hard time, not mine but, helping out a friend. I'm a 1966 version myself :-) do you have any tips regarding uneven engine running. there is a ton on the v8 that needs to be made. but drive, carburetor setting you have a bid. it says 4 rounds of basic setting in the shop manual. there are others who have messed with the car before I can see and a sea of vaccum hoses I have also changed, what is the ignition timing on this skate, and is it with or without vaccum. finally come up with old stories, even think of something in my youth nice Kenny
I get the Keystone Cops reference. I'm pretty sure I look ridiculous, especially the third, fourth, eighth time I try to catch then try to find, one or more of the return springs when they slip off the post and fly off into the unknown. Really a bummer when I'm doing it outside in the snow. I should probably get one of those tools....
With that many miles. I think I would have replaced the bearings too.
Drum brakes are a mechanical IQ test. Good advice take a picture. Good video.
good video
When i was driving my honda. Even after i replaced my brakes front and back and bleed them too. The brake pedal needed less travel than when i bought it used. But there was still more travel than when i bought a new car. On the new car there is literally no travel and it works immediately. I like it now than what my honda had. The problem would probably be the brake master cylinder or the booster huh.
May I suggest to owner of vehicle to use Fluid film spray on the undercarriage to prevent rust..
THANK GOD FOR MOE ...😮
Do you suggest doing a ABS bleed with you scanner when doing the slave cylinders? I did a ABS brake bleed and it blew a hole in my brake line....the line was rusted at the point of the leak.
I'd rather it blow when on the lift then when driving . That's for certain!! I usually only do an automated scanner bleed when their was possibly air in the system or the pedal doesn't feel quite right . The pedal felt perfect on this one
Hey Kenny I didn't see you put the final wrenching on the retainer bolt between the Spider Gears, last I saw it was about a 1/4" from being seated! Meybe check your video? I had one come out on an old F-250 Ford and total destruction took place. Wasn't my fault, previous owner was a dirtbag.
Great vid, did i see mopar style adjusters on that ford??
I used to put them back on
Great video I am shocked by how many people use power steering fluid instead of brake fluid I seen guy putting it in a car the other day I said something to him and he told me that a mechanic told him that it was okay because they were the same thing
Never herd that one before! they must have learned that Bad idea on the internet????? to the best of my limited knowledge : "Severe damage results from even the smallest amount of petroleum-based fluid added to the brake system. Oil-based fluid causes the rubber in the braking system to swell and very rapidly deteriorate".
Looks like I am the first to respond. 😄 Thanks for another video, I was bored at home.
After having to replace brand new axle seals and e-brake shoes, I always add rtv to those pre-coated seals.
Kenny any chance you could smile a bit more or at least once would be good ? Love your content by the way. Pádráic via Ireland
??? What does the tiny tooth gear do thats beside the ring gear? I've only seen that one other time.
Quick question, since there is 200,000 miles on the truck why not go ahead and just put new bearings in the axle tubes while its already apart and accessible?
Lot of the times with drum brakes I will be taking the shoes and drum to the reliner, so that I can get a skim and a new set of linings bonded and shaped to the drum. Some vehicles, like VW Golf and Toyota Corolla, not worth relining, as the new drums and linings are so cheap, because they are so common.
Hey Kenny, the link to the scanner is broken just FYI
i have a question how does the moisture from the air get into the brake fluid when its a sealed unit?,unless you have a leak that is. i know it does but it doesn't make sence.
How do you tell left from right brake shoes
Never mind the pictures. Before we had cell phones you just did one side at at time. Then you could look at the intact side to see how to put it back together.
But good video as are all of yours.
That's how I used to do it. Thanks for watching 🔧
Hey Kenny, just little Note: You can take that clip off Primary brake for E- brake with good screw driver before you get brakes off truck Save you fron Hurting you knuckles or fingers holding brake in your hand ✋️ it good "thought" and touch lube on the star adjuster great thing. Otherwise great video Kenny
Almost no one remembers that when you back up once my supposed to hit the brake kind of hard to adjust those rear brakes.
I was wondering when you'd realized you forgot the cable. 😊
Yeah, I was talking to my screen. Glad he got it fixed up.
Why not replace the axle bearings while it is apart?
I can only do what the customer wants. He didn't go for any additional work. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
My first car had drum brakes all round.
Replaced the shoes on a driveway DIY ,using any old tool that came to hand and without a Haynes manual or any other help.
What a total pain in the arse.!
Never again.!
Disc brakes are wonderful.
I am led to understand that car makers are worrying drivers into flushing brake fluid every two years, simply as a nice cost addition to normal servicing.
When I was a young mechanic and before there was brake clean I would wash the drums and shoes with gasoline and dry them with a rag and then take wood stove ashes and rub inside the drums and shoes and dump the ashes out and reassemble with no grabbing of the brakes when pedal was applied
The term is HYGROSCOPIC,most refrigerant oils are the same ,as they absorb moisture! Just the technical term if anyone wanted to know!
You did crack it i see.👍
What vehicle is that from, I thought this could be my problem, so I called auto zone to price the wheel cylinder and they said 02 Silverado isn't equipped with them,
He said in the beginning he's working on a 2007 Ford Ranger!
You should have Craigslist rebuild that differential cover😅
I have the cheaper scan tools I'm going to purchase the launch Scan tool If you can please use that so that I can learn how to better navigate the tool
I didnt see you check the bolt before you took the cover off to drain the oil.
Greetings from Australia. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Good viewing thanks Kenny
💩 happens but you caught it have a blessed day today
My came with 2 year free updates
8:50 Things I have learned from Kenny
1. Catch all your bolts before tightening any of them down. This wiggle room makes reassembly much easier.
2. Don’t bang your head into the leaf spring. That hurts.
Why? I don't know ! Said that many times wrenching on vehicle's. You should do a meet and greet cookout or something. I'm from Wilmington. Many of uus who watch your videos would like to meet the mechanic that you helps us get through many shade tree jobs. Thanks again !
Your comment about taking Pictures so you will know how drum brakes is good tocay but when I learned some 55 years ago I was told do one side at a time so if you are not sure you can look at the other side
Big shoe back and smaller shoe front is NOT always the rule Many Fords and some other makes up to the mid 60's Have the big shoe toward the front and the smaller shoe toward the back. This is the case with our 1949 Ford and 1953 Ford.
Taking the brake assemblies appart, you r hands got lpretty messy. I notice how clean they are when everything is going back together. You might explain this . Keeps dirty hand printsfrom appearing on your new brakes. I used to use brake cleaner on my hands😢
What you’re doing is great!! Don’t use time lapse - it’s really irritating and pointless. I like Questionable Garage too - but Jared uses too much time lapse. If you are going to use time lapse put a commentary over it - Chris Slix does that very well. Cheers enjoy the channel very much.
hard to believe i have watched some you tube channels that do reinstall those clips
I’ve reinstalled them? No problems yet