Great explanation - this is a question that many people have and this video make it very easy to understand how to adjust it. It looks like Brandon is giving Toby a run for his money on being the EC TH-cam star….
I have a boost leak at high rpms, the boost starts to be unstable and the car doesn't has much power. How do I know if the problem is the wastegate or the blow off valve?
Hi Nice vidéo. I try to adjust my setup , I have 57 trim turbo on a 7mgte motor .my wategate start to open at 11psi and fully open at around 17psi, but my full boost is 16psi on hight rpm. (My boost grow with rpm around 5800rpm)I have no leak on my boost circuit (hose-intercooler..) And no leak on my exhaust manifold and exhaust valve. Do you have a idea? It s not à big turbo normale full boost is around 3800rpm. Thanks🙂
15 psi yellow spring is recommended for Phase 1 and up with the Forge actuator. This is not comparable to the Turbosmart as that actuates differently and a 15 psi spring is not available. Stock actuator should be around 7-8 psi and can be adjusted to about 9 if need be, although it is not ideal for a tuned car.
Would you guys perform a video tutorial on how to upgrade the front sway bar for 2016-2019 fiat 124 spider? I am lost on installing the new front sway bar.
We don't have a video specifically on the sway bar install (I don't think we will be making one) but there are a few written guides from users online (a few on the 124spider forums as well like this one (www.124spider.org/threads/front-swaybar-installation-notes.31400/). Hopefully that helps.
I love your video. My BMW F11 525D xdrive 2012 actuator rode is just a plastic rode with no nut and nothing to adjust. Is the adjustment sitting in the wastegate top? I get repeatly the same error 29A400 saying the rode actuator is too far + deviation. If I accellerate a little bit , the drivetrain error comes up yellow sign. My plan is to turn the rode 4 turns to increase the load. Have you any good advices? The workshop has replaced a new turbocharger. After the replacement my trubocharger has no boost. There is no help from the workshop. it seems to me they don´t know what to do.
I don't have a great deal of experience with newer BMWs, but I believe that actuator is electronically controlled (similar to the newer Alfas we work on, same technology only a bit older). Normally the wastegate has to be calibrated with the turbo, or when out of deviation. That's also true if you replace the turbo. We have a program that does this for Alfas, I would think there must be something that can also do it for the F11. But typically the electronic WGAs have to be calibrated, or undergo some sort of calibration procedure. Normally you can't set an electronically controlled WGA, or adjust it like in this video. It has to be altered or calibrated using software.
@@EUROCOMPULSION Thank you very much. Now I understand I have to bring my car back to the workshop and ask them to calibrate the electronically controlled WGA by using a software to calibrate. A BMW workshop sure has a software suitable for BMW cars. I don´t this workshop has the software. They did not find the errors saying the turbo geometri is out of range. With my Autofix S910 diagnostic scanner. I have got all the errors with the turbo. The booster pressure solenoid was short circuit because filled of oil. After replacing the booster solenoid , all errors dissappear except the WGA error.
@@EUROCOMPULSION I have read from youtube many people use Insta+ to calibate the electronic controller. Do you have any experience in using the Insta+? I mean the procedure is the same all kind o cars. As far as I understand you must adjus the crack pressure first and use Insta+ to calibrate and check. Agreed?
I would like to know when the engine is off is the westgate open or closed? and in what position is he when the engine is on and how it continues to work when I add a lot of gas. my engine lost power when I accelerate after 2 thousand revolutions, I don't go into save mode and the diagnostics dont report errors. I get acceleration but very slowly, like I don't have turbine. Sorry for my english i hope you understand my question, thanks
It should be able to hold the pressure (as shown in our video when we pump and fill the diaphragm). If it is dropping the diaphragm would have to be leaking (or the tool is leaking).
We have not tested that so would not be able to tell you. We really suggest sticking with the 1446 and then when upgrading choosing our 1446+ Big Turbo. Our turbo is the most performance proven by far and is the only turbo that has gotten anyone into the 13’s with both a 124 and 500 Abarth. At least publicly.
so if im looking to make 15psi should my crack pressure be 15 psi as well or should it be 15psy wastegate flap fully open. i have a gt2871r that was supposed to be 8psi stock but the least i can go down in 17 psi no matter how low i set preload,so i purchased a ebay adjustable wg that says its 10 psi, also i do have a boost controller and wondering if i should just leave the wg at 10 psi and adjust boost control to 15 psi or is it better to not use the mbc and control boost only off wg
The crack pressure is the pressure at which the wastegate arm begins to move (and therefore the flap begins to open inside the turbo to regulate pressure). Because of the wastegate duty cycle (electronically controlled), it's not necessarily an open at 15 and stay at 15 for boost pressure. It's going to open at 15 psi applied to the wastegate, but still allow for boost to build to some degree. The duty cycle fluctuates in order to maintain requested boost, which has to be changed in the tune. Only in the case the electronics were completely removed would you be able to rely solely on the crack pressure to regulate boost (and the ECU would throw a lot of codes as a result). Boost control on this car is mostly dependent on the electronic control and software.
How many turns can depend on what crack pressure you were at and what crack pressure you’re trying to get to. The amount of turns is not the main focus.
![สาวเมืองเพชร - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kEt7F9PvO3I/mqdefault.jpg)
Great explanation - this is a question that many people have and this video make it very easy to understand how to adjust it. It looks like Brandon is giving Toby a run for his money on being the EC TH-cam star….
Great explanation! That's how we dialed it in on my car.
Well done Brandon. Thanks.
fiat punto evo 1.4. i've shortened it by 6 full turns. will that be bad for the turbo/car?
Thank you for your video show. I understand. Great Video 👍
Nicely explained. Does anyone know if crack pressure is the same on smaller multiair turbo variant GT1238Z. Thank you
I have a boost leak at high rpms, the boost starts to be unstable and the car doesn't has much power. How do I know if the problem is the wastegate or the blow off valve?
🔥🔥🔥
Do i need to find what the total boost of my car is supposed to be and half that since its only one of the turbos?
Is 15 the crack pressure for a yellow 20 + spring?
감사합니다
Excellent Video Brandon! Really apreciate all the work you've put into this... and my car :)
Happy to work with you Raymond and thanks for the kind words.
-Stay Driven,
Brandon
Hi Nice vidéo. I try to adjust my setup , I have 57 trim turbo on a 7mgte motor .my wategate start to open at 11psi and fully open at around 17psi, but my full boost is 16psi on hight rpm.
(My boost grow with rpm around 5800rpm)I have no leak on my boost circuit (hose-intercooler..)
And no leak on my exhaust manifold and exhaust valve.
Do you have a idea? It s not à big turbo normale full boost is around 3800rpm.
Thanks🙂
Awesome thanks
My arm is not moving it holds up to 25 psi and won’t pass more but still the arm on the wastegate is not moving what can be this issue?
So is 15 psi recommended for all 1446 or just when you're running Forge/TS wastegate or just on Phase 3?
15 psi yellow spring is recommended for Phase 1 and up with the Forge actuator. This is not comparable to the Turbosmart as that actuates differently and a 15 psi spring is not available. Stock actuator should be around 7-8 psi and can be adjusted to about 9 if need be, although it is not ideal for a tuned car.
Would you guys perform a video tutorial on how to upgrade the front sway bar for 2016-2019 fiat 124 spider? I am lost on installing the new front sway bar.
We don't have a video specifically on the sway bar install (I don't think we will be making one) but there are a few written guides from users online (a few on the 124spider forums as well like this one (www.124spider.org/threads/front-swaybar-installation-notes.31400/).
Hopefully that helps.
I love your video. My BMW F11 525D xdrive 2012 actuator rode is just a plastic rode with no nut and nothing to adjust. Is the adjustment sitting in the wastegate top? I get repeatly the same error 29A400 saying the rode actuator is too far + deviation. If I accellerate a little bit , the drivetrain error comes up yellow sign. My plan is to turn the rode 4 turns to increase the load. Have you any good advices? The workshop has replaced a new turbocharger. After the replacement my trubocharger has no boost. There is no help from the workshop. it seems to me they don´t know what to do.
I don't have a great deal of experience with newer BMWs, but I believe that actuator is electronically controlled (similar to the newer Alfas we work on, same technology only a bit older). Normally the wastegate has to be calibrated with the turbo, or when out of deviation. That's also true if you replace the turbo. We have a program that does this for Alfas, I would think there must be something that can also do it for the F11. But typically the electronic WGAs have to be calibrated, or undergo some sort of calibration procedure. Normally you can't set an electronically controlled WGA, or adjust it like in this video. It has to be altered or calibrated using software.
@@EUROCOMPULSION Thank you very much. Now I understand I have to bring my car back to the workshop and ask them to calibrate the electronically controlled WGA by using a software to calibrate. A BMW workshop sure has a software suitable for BMW cars. I don´t this workshop has the software. They did not find the errors saying the turbo geometri is out of range. With my Autofix S910 diagnostic scanner. I have got all the errors with the turbo. The booster pressure solenoid was short circuit because filled of oil. After replacing the booster solenoid , all errors dissappear except the WGA error.
@@EUROCOMPULSION I have read from youtube many people use Insta+ to calibate the electronic controller. Do you have any experience in using the Insta+? I mean the procedure is the same all kind o cars. As far as I understand you must adjus the crack pressure first and use Insta+ to calibrate and check. Agreed?
I would like to know when the engine is off is the westgate open or closed? and in what position is he when the engine is on and how it continues to work when I add a lot of gas. my engine lost power when I accelerate after 2 thousand revolutions, I don't go into save mode and the diagnostics dont report errors. I get acceleration but very slowly, like I don't have turbine.
Sorry for my english i hope you understand my question, thanks
It should be in the closed position when the engine is off. It should only open when the pressure that it is meant to open at is met.
If it moves at 15psi does it have to hold that pressure too? What if the pressure starts to drop? Bad waste gate actuator diaphragm?
It should be able to hold the pressure (as shown in our video when we pump and fill the diaphragm). If it is dropping the diaphragm would have to be leaking (or the tool is leaking).
In my Fiat Bravo 2009. Is. Diferent and i think is not Possible to regulate. What can i do ??
Can't answer that as We do not work on those cars.
What is the size diameter of the silicone hose?
4mm ID. Make sure it is nicer silicone as many do not stretch quite well and you may need to size up a bit.
What is the crack pressure for a k03s turbo?
We have not tested that so would not be able to tell you. We really suggest sticking with the 1446 and then when upgrading choosing our 1446+ Big Turbo. Our turbo is the most performance proven by far and is the only turbo that has gotten anyone into the 13’s with both a 124 and 500 Abarth. At least publicly.
so if im looking to make 15psi should my crack pressure be 15 psi as well or should it be 15psy wastegate flap fully open.
i have a gt2871r that was supposed to be 8psi stock but the least i can go down in 17 psi no matter how low i set preload,so i purchased a ebay adjustable wg that says its 10 psi,
also i do have a boost controller and wondering if i should just leave the wg at 10 psi and adjust boost control to 15 psi or is it better to not use the mbc and control boost only off wg
The crack pressure is the pressure at which the wastegate arm begins to move (and therefore the flap begins to open inside the turbo to regulate pressure). Because of the wastegate duty cycle (electronically controlled), it's not necessarily an open at 15 and stay at 15 for boost pressure. It's going to open at 15 psi applied to the wastegate, but still allow for boost to build to some degree. The duty cycle fluctuates in order to maintain requested boost, which has to be changed in the tune. Only in the case the electronics were completely removed would you be able to rely solely on the crack pressure to regulate boost (and the ECU would throw a lot of codes as a result). Boost control on this car is mostly dependent on the electronic control and software.
You did just full two turns, right? Or what bro?
How many turns can depend on what crack pressure you were at and what crack pressure you’re trying to get to. The amount of turns is not the main focus.