The Best Ender 3 S1 Pro Review You've Never Heard Of
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
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Huge Thanks to Pergear! (Affiliate Links below)
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Ender 3 S1 Printers:
www.pergear.com/products/crea...
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Amazon Links:
Ender 3 S1 - amzn.to/3bbYzwA
Ender 3 S1 Pro - amzn.to/3xA2oU5
Favorite Cheap Filament (TecBears) - amzn.to/3N4c7HO
Overall Favorite Filament (Duramic) - amzn.to/3HyJi5c
Wearable Sleeping Bag - amzn.to/3HyIjSG
Ender 3 S1 Upgrades:
2X Print Speed with CHT Nozzle - • Ender 3 S1 - All-Metal...
Part Cooling Fan Upgrade - • Ender 3 S1 - The Silen...
PEI Sheet - amzn.to/3n2IewU
Light Bar - amzn.to/3O7iCea
Discord Channel: / discord
Intro and Unboxing:(0:00)
Assembly and Build Issues:(1:19)
Printing:(7:35)
Hotend Tear-Down:(9:37)
Conclusion:(11:03) - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The QC music and guitar solo when the heat break broke was peak entertainment
I have been running my S1 Pro every day since receiving delivery - June 6. My best setting for no stinging with pla is 190 deg. The belts , I run loose, just enough to bring them taught. This reduces noise and eliminates ringing. First 2 layers 200 deg then 190deg. Levelling - sweet. Running environment spare bedroom no heating: 5 to 16 deg C. Humidity 60%-75%.
Going to install ruby nozzle that I bought 4 years ago but never used.
Great video, keep up the good work.
Interesting, I always run at 210 for PLA so that is probably the trick. I just turned the belt tension down and it reduced the noise and can tell its quieter already. Thanks for the tips Sandy.
I'll keep this in mind. Thanks homie 🙏🙏🙏
Noted
Nice to bad I was already subscribed
@NathanBuildsRobots your filament could also be moist.
Tbh, you got my sub with your little self plug at the end. I love it
Very promissing content! Just subscribed. Great work, sir! 😎
I think what I like about your humor is you don't change the inflection of your voice but you have perfect timing and it makes the jokes work
Watching this video trying to pass the time while waiting for my S1 pro to arrive. Funny and informative - subbed.
Your oddness is what makes you so awesome; please don't ever change that. Thank you for your honest review and things to help set up my printer, I truly appreciate it.
Nathan you are awesome. Thanks for being different. It’s something this community needed!
Thanks for watching!!
Got my pro yesterday and it's up and running fine. The noise from the plastic base was the first thing I noticed, though it doesn't bother me as much, but I do wish they had went another route. Another thing I have in common with so many people who have bought the pro it seems, is that my build plate was quite wobbly as well. Had to also remove the plate to get to the eccentrics. After these things it's been all good.
Adjust them from the right side and it would have saved you time, there was no need to take it apart like he did. I too just got mine a week ago and it was the same. It was done to prevent damage during shipping.
I had exactly the same issue with the power cable snagging on the stepper. It sorted itself out after the cable had had some time to get warm and relax into a better position. Definitely something for buyers of a new S1 Pro to watch out for. Also just to add that my rear stepper motor always runs at a far higher temperature than the other steppers...just like your review model.
At least they are consistent!
@@NathanBuildsRobots Nathan, I have recently read the reason why the rear stepper motor(Y axis) gets much hotter to the touch than the 2 Z axis steppers. The 2 Z axis motors are wired in series and therefore only drawing half as much current through each motor as the singularly supplied Y axis motor.
I have one of the first ones that shipped, I got it locally on south America at the same time the reviewers got theirs, I was pretty amazed. No stringing on mine but i had some clogs, that went away after using some olive oil. Noise is an issue, specially compared to my super quiet E3V2, it's not only the plastic base, I tried everything, even if you take off the motor from the mount it still makes. Allot of noise, my guess is that is is related to the drivers they used. Other than that, it proved to be a reliable machine.
Loved this video man. Had to subscribe. I'm looking for my first 3D printer. Was going to be this one, but not so sure now.
Its missing the attention to detail that I expect at the price point. If you want to get a big printer that's easy to use I'd recommend the Artillery Sidewinder X2
th-cam.com/video/5tjE3QAOkWc/w-d-xo.html
Only downside is it takes up quite a bit of counter space.
I think the new entry level printers are the mini 1-armed designs. I want to review several over the next month. For starters I did the Ender 2 S1. Was fun, but not very well polished.
Definitely the best review I've seen so far on the Pro. I really appreciate the attention to noise level, build quality and general design flaws. Things like the power cable getting snagged on the stepper are little paper cuts but super helpful in making a decision. Also great bonus information on printing higher temp materials
I looked on reddit, and asked on my Discord. All of the issues that I had were reported by other users as well.
There are way too many "reviewers" that sugar coat everything, like "OH THIS PRINTER IS sooOOoooOOOOooooooo GREAT! Perfect for beginners! Very Quiet Machine! Great Print Quality! Great Value for Money! :D"
@@NathanBuildsRobots Exactly. Take the ejection molded base. Most passed this off as an improvement somehow. No mention of the extra resonant noise it creates. Not a problem if you have your own dedicated studio or barn on the south acre but a bigger deal for a normal guy who has to share modest living space with other people.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I understand why, so many 3D printer reviews start with "I got this printer from company to review" or "I wanted to get a new 3D printer, so I asked the company to send me one to review". You can't really be objective when the company sends you it for free and want to get more stuff from them in the future, unless you're a big name.
@@relo999 Nowadays I get most of my printers for free. But I would rather be a trusted reviewer than sugar coat a printer to avoid burning bridges.
If that company is OK with releasing bad products, then they also need to be OK with getting roasted in a review.
I do the reviews because I love playing around with the technology, and I would be spending money buying printers anyways, since it's a fun and rewarding hobby.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Ohh I certainly get that. I have the same feeling on how reviews should be, be it's sadly quite common with all kinds of reviewers, not just in the 3D printing sphere, to ignore, sugarcoat or downplay issues. Granted part of that is also corporation making special review units that are made to QA issues or outright different hardware.
One that I fell for were FPV goggles (EV300D), when they were reviewed they were amazing but when the first batch shipped they had awful latency. One of which I got as I preordered based on the reviews. And when you fly proximity at around 80km/h a latency of an additional quarter second can end quite bad. But apparently the review units where quite different internally than consumer units based on a teardown a review did, luckily I was one of the few people that got their money back after hours of complaining and paypal shenanigan's. But I know I'm one of the rare people that actually did get their money back.
All in all I think a honest review is ideally both good for the company, reviewer and consumer. Because once a consumer is burned by the reviewer and especially the company chances of them doing repeat business is quite low.
Stringing is also present on my S1 Pro. And noise levels are quite high, but I'm gonna try to replace default coolers setup with your silenced version :)
The noise is really starting to get to me. It seems like its getting worse. I'm doing a lot of large and fast prints on it now and the Y axis just groans.
I bought some sound deadener, no idea if it will work. It's just sticky rubber sheets. Would also like to try a stepper damper.
thumbs up from right at the intro, subbed at hearing the name of the channel.
Lying on floor, sits up: WELCOME to another episode of Nathan Builds Robots! 🤣
Thanks for the review!
Your Y axis motor is hotter because of the excess belt tension as the motor has to work harder. Also you can reduce stringing by adding a silicon socket to the heat block. Great Video 👍🏻
Thanks! The other factor adding to the heat is the heated bed sometimes being right overhead, but most printers are 10-15ish degrees C hotter on the Y, this one was hot hot hot!
I used a heat gun to heat the block and got the heat break out. Much easier than a torch.
He has risen.
Man, I really felt that guitar when the heatbreak snapped. 😂
I kind of saw it coming. The glue was too tough, and the heatbreak was too weak. Someone in the comments said they were able to remove it using a heat gun.
It's OK though, I like it when things break. Gives me an excuse to upgrade it 😆 🔧
@@NathanBuildsRobots any excuse would do! Haha
one thing you could do to help with the plastic case resonance is get some DynaMat sound deadener. we use it for car audio, stuffs really good for making panels stop resonating
NVH is huge in the automotive industry, but 3D printer manufacturers seemingly have never heard of it :P
Nice tip. I looked into that stuff that you reccomended, dynamat is expensive as hell! Ordered some of this instead: amzn.to/3OvDY53 (Using affiliate links cause they are shorter)
I think the best solution is some stepper dampers like this: amzn.to/3HzlOgt
All the vibrations are coming from that Y axis stepper motor.
Also I put blinker dielectric grease on the y axis limit switch because it rattles otherwise. amzn.to/3tNuKca
I have seen vibration damping structures in aerospace that are use 2 sheets of metal with butyl sandwiched between them. Forms a strong, stiff, and extremely vibration dampening material, which helps prevent failures from "flutter", which can literally tear the wings off of a plane if left unchecked. Funny thing is that some whiteboards are made using the exact same construction, so if you find a whiteboard and cut it into pieces to build something, it will probably have excellent vibration damping.
@@NathanBuildsRobots wow didn't know that about whiteboards. Altho it makes sense as it's a composite material.
Dynamat is hella expensive but the performance lives up to it lol. It's super thick and dense which really helps add mass to the thin sheet metal of cars. Anywho, will be looking forward to seeing your results with the cheap amazon brand deadener. You could even make an enclosure out of whiteboard material with a sound deadener base see how quiet you can get the thing to run🤣
I just got my S1 Pro yesterday! I haven't had any stringing yet, but I've only used PLA. So far my prints look fantastic! Very happy with my purchase
Great to hear! All of the Ender 3 S1s are outstanding, thanks to their shared feature set.
My opinion is more from a modders perspective. I enjoy the process of taking things apart and seeing how they work, so modding is half the fun, and I find an excuse to mod virtually every printer I get my hands on.
I've had an S1 for about 6 months and I love it. Maybe I just got an especially well built one but its just smashed everything I've tasked it with and I haven't so much as had a nozzle blockage yet.
I bought and Ender 3 Pro soon after to increase production (been printing model planes with LW-PLA - lotsa parts) and it has been good too, though the bowden has been a bit fussier to deal with than the direct drive which I really love in the S1. And I now find myself wanting to update it with a sprite extruder and silent board. The S1 is so quiet in comparison. I even upgraded it with the Pro LED light which I like in a non-sarcastic way! Its out of the way and effective - great for timelapse recordings. Sounds like I was wise not to get the Pro version from your negative experiences with it.
I like the S1 more than the S1 pro. I bought the sprite upgrade kit. I'll be installing and reviewing it when I get a chance.
I have a Ender 3 S1 pro . Recently I got some cheap Overture PLA filament from amazon. So far I am getting lots of issue such as stringing , fuzzy hairy print , many little blobs of PLA on print .. etc . I wonder if anyone else have issues with Overture PLA filament ? BTW , the white PLA filament shipped with my S1 pro works great but I ran out of those .
You need huge part cooling fans for PLA and maybe PETG. ABS and other high temperature filaments don't need cooling mostly, they need only when layer time is below 5-10 seconds, even then the fan should be gentle, max 50-60%
Ive been using mine with pla+ at 205-210c and 50-60c bed. Has been pretty good for me. no stringing really till i started with klipper
liked, subbed, and bell was rung. I too live by a no manual policy, and I can appreciate your channel rule. However, this rule has lead me to finding channels like yours. 🙂 Cheers!
Creality has too many different models that are all the same. Yikes! Awesome video Nathan. The beginning and ending are classic! Looking forward to the next one.
I agree, they had the CR-6, CR-10, Ender 2, Ender 3, Ender 6, Ender 7, Sermoon, etc. It starts to get confusing, and you end up with a bunch of unique parts, so it makes them harder to repair.
The right way to go about this is to have parts compatibility between their different product lines.
Make 1 family of I3 style printers - call it the Ender 3, and sell a bunch of different sizes, all with the same stepper motors, control board, brackets, extruders, etc.
Make another family of Corexy printers, Call it the Ender 6, and sell it in a bunch of different sizes, all with the same stepper motors, brackets, extruders, etc.
The idea of product families and shared components is nothing new, but it looks like they keep reinventing the wheel every 2 months with another random printer.
I have 2 s1s and 2 s1 pros. 3/4 of them had bad firmware upon arrival. The 4th was bricked initially upon installing creality's official firmware update. Fortunately the Chinese firmware worked flawlessly. 3/4 of them arrived with super loose belts and at least one bed knob off. I really can't wait for my X1 Carbons to get here.
QC is definitely not Creality's strong suite. Once you get them working they are pretty good though.
Are you starting a Noah's arc of 3d printers? What do you print with all those printers?
While the Pro model does not come with a steel nozzle for carbon fiber use, it's available. A set of three was just an extra $15 added to the order at the time I wrote this.
I also get tiny strings on my s1 pro as well. Still testing with it but I speculate a coated nozzle may help.
When I got mine the firmware was buggy. For example, if I would preheat the bed and nozzle and go into the leveling menu, it would get super laggy/slow and sometimes the auto bed level would fail half way through. Yes, my bed was leveled manually first. It would also be laggy at the start of a print. I upgraded the firmware and now it works perfectly no bugs. The new firmware also added support for laser operation.
TIP IF YOU UPDATE THE FIRMWARE: Update the screen FIRST with micro SD card. If you update the main board first it can lockup the machine like it did to me(on boot it would hang at creality logo). To fix, I had to go back to an older main board version, flash the screen to most recent, then flash the board to most recent. It was a pain, but worth it. Good info on crealities tutorial video (mostly the comment section lol).
How do you upgrade the firmware? I have been struggling
@@Henniebrandweer creality has TH-cam videos for it. I followed that. Make sure you update the screen first via the little SD card in back of screen board. It’s not hard you just have to take your time and make sure the file name is correct and do right steps in order. Printer automatically will update on boot when you have the firmware on the inserted SD cards. There might new videos out on it now as well.
What heat break did you swap it out with ? So I can swap mine out haha . And besides the plastic base everything else is the same ? Like battery and motherboard ?
Great review, thanks!
Hi, mine is due back on Tuesday after getting the print head control board replaced (extruder motor stopped working) probably due to heater block wire shorting out, blackened hole in the wire covering and end loose from plug as you show. I don’t worry about noise as it runs in garage. Actually quite melodious to my ear. It has been printing LW-PLA for RC model aircraft fine. No plans to mod it as I viewed it as Crealities culmination of previous years work etc. Firmware has been fine for me and I am looking forward to it just printing! Not modding. Thanks Laurie, New Zealand
Yikes! Glad you were able to get it fixed
Love the mullet, bro.
I'm about to purchase eight S1 Pros for my first printer farm to print carbon fiber polycarbonate.
I was going to go with the Sovol06 or the Max Neo but the S1 Pro meets all the requirements for my application.
Can you recommend which 3d printer should I get
between the ender 3 S1 or the elegoo Neptune 3 pro ?
Why and I'm so interested in the way this guy edits he's video! Subscribed! I don't even need a 3D printer...
I have a very random editing style, never sure what to expect next :P
LOL Nathan Builds Robots you are 100% on spot with your review title and information. I am on the fence of getting into 3D and what printer to get. I enjoyed your review and I will be considering my budget and checking more of your videos, I also sub once I viewed your blow torch use. Keep up the good job and thanks for your time and research. ( :
I'd strongly consider the Artillery x2, great printer for the price. I did a video on it about a month back
any stl for a updated tip cooling duct? And tips for printing with PETG? Can't get rid of strings
after watching this I am going to get some of that low profile soundproofing sheets they use in cars and stick a couple of bits under the bottom cover...when it arrives this week.
Love your videos. Great content and love the jokes.
Even if I wasn't subscribed, it was worth getting to the end to hear you say that people are breaking your heart 😂😂😂
Mine has been rock solid since I bought it. Never even had to level it after the first time and I've run a ton of prints through it. The firmware is definitely the weakest part, but still usable at least. I had to order a second one since I sold my first one.
excellent video, excited to see more
Damn, what's that hilarious QC music? I absolutely love it. Amazing review too, definitely deserves a sub from me 👍🏻
That dredded moment when thing you want to unscrew gets scary soft. The light seems nice... otherwise i'll stay with my standard S1 but I give those fanducts definitly a try. Thank you!
It's trivial and cheap to replace the hot end on the standard S1 with an all metal one (Mine was $25), and you can actually get the same light bar included with the pro for another $25ish.
So for about $50 more than the standard, you get a better constructed unit than the pro.
The levelling issue must be more than just firmware, I got myself an e3v2 screen and switched to mriscoc firmware, the issue is still there. At least now i can manually edit my mesh with a knob so it actually fits my print surface. No Idea why the autoprobed mesh is wrong though. Maybe it's imprecision on the x and y movements because of the offset between nozzle and probe. Since the firmware now allows me to change probe offset, I'm gonna move the probe so there's no y-offset anymore. I already have your fanshroud mod, so theres ample space for this relocation.
Love your videos, btw!
Thank you Bogus! I've been lucky with ABL. Aside from some crashes from having it set too high or too low, its worked very reliably on all the machines I have used it on. I pull out some extra stops on my 1st layer that I think really help too.
Thank you for your citical review. There is one more point that is less pro on the Sprite extruder: The routing of the ribbon cable. As it is, it will fold and move round that fold close to the extruder. Guaranteed point of failure sooner or later. Creality should have chosen for a vertical paced connector on the extruder in stead of horizontal. Again, thanks for really looking at a printer.
Very true. Designed obsolescence.
The best thing you can do is work on adding a strain relief to that poor cable!
Haha solid video man, way to keep it entertaining
I had the S1 Pro and it printed like a champ with no stringing actually no problems at all
That is until I did the Factory recommended Firmware update and then the thing just locked up an d never ran again
Now they made me jump through all kinds of hoops and to ne end it still didn't work so they sent me a new motherboard and still didn't work
So as much as I loved it I packed it up and shipped it back got a full refund and bought the S1 Plus and I'm waiting for it to come in. But with foresight I bought the all metal hot end for it and by watching your video I'll just swap them out rather than try to change the tubing to avoid the same end you came to
I'll post by next weekend as it's due in on Thursday thanks for the video and saving me a hot end LOL
Paul
Nice, my Ender 3 S1 plus is not working - Firmware would lock up when I tried to run the mesh bed leveling procedure. Tried updating the firmware, will be replacing the mainboard to see if that helps.
Creality QC is... lets just say it could use some work.
which is better, the Kobra 2 or the ender 3 s1 pro?
Be very careful/attentive when tightening up the slop on the bed wobble. If you tighten the bolts underneath the bed to get rid of that play it has, it's possible to warp the build plate and make leveling an absolute nightmare. Go ahead, ask me, ask me how I know. Loosened them back up so there's a little wobble and my print quality has returned. Otherwise I'm fairly happy with it. Built an enclosure that I'm waiting to put over it until I can figure out a way to prevent the heated bed cable from bonking the rear wall and throwing everything off mid-print.
Can you make the cable longer? Leave the sag out and its movements will be very minimal.
love the intro!
Fans noise makes me mad. After couple of days I added couple resistors at the extruder and power supply fans and now I can live with it.
Just assembled my S1 Pro today.
If anything mine was slightly too tight.
Stringing.. Yup. I thought it was something I did.
What do you think is the best printer for a beginner at around $300? I want to be able to print RC parts so prints need durability. Would the ender 3s1 be a good starting point and later upgrading the hot end? It's $300 right now for black Friday or is it worth it to spend more for the 3S1 Pro. Thanks so much!!
I would get the Artillery Sidewinder X2 if you are at all interested in printing larger objects. Just put an all-metal heatbreak on there. Its $250 right now which is a crazy deal.
Here are some affiliate links so you can check the price:
USA: bit.ly/3dAqNmc
EUR: bit.ly/3QHOJlB
UK: bit.ly/3C5EpQp
Coupon code: NNNNBRARTX2
Maybe try some sound deadening material such as Dynamat / Kilmat (or cheaper alternative, or hell some sort of adhesive backed rubber material from Home Depot may work?) on the underside of the plastic. The plastic is basically resonating like a speaker cone.
I bought some, it’s tough to install, working around all the wires and stuff so I kind of gave up
Btw, MandicReally has a good video where he installed a bunch on his X1 Carbon. Seemed to help a bit
Does it hurt anything to only use hardened steel tips. I'm new, plan on using carbon fiber , pla, and tpu mainly. I made a enclosure out of 1/4 inch foam insulation panels and duct tape, lol. I'll make some plastic clips to hold it together later.
Do you have a video on how to change print settings? Settings filament retraction, print speed. That kind of thing. The basics. Or point me in the correct direction.
Only thing about steel is its a little less thermally conductive than brass. So you may need to slow down your prints or bump up the temps 5-10 degrees.
I usually use stock settings and only really tune retraction. 1-2mm for direct drive, 2-5mm for bowden
Were can I get data to print car parts.
And another issue that I'm having - Z-axis rollers adjustments with eccentric nuts. Internal / external rollers have different pressure on a Z-frame.
Yeah, one of my Z-axis wheels isn't even touching the frame. It matters less on a dual z lead screw setup, but still annoying. I always get them set up nice and even on machines I build from scratch. Requires a couple extra steps, but I just like having a well-tuned machine.
I wonder if the timing belt needs to be adjusted. like, rorate one of the Z axis relative to the other. Cause they might be locked together asynchronously, with one side always higher than the other.
Bro got a 3-D printer right out of the box. All he had to do is put it together, but he broke it.
I got the same printer. The bed was off level, but that wasn't easy fixed with the a couple of tightening of the wheels on the bottom.
I'm no pro but I figured it out. This was so easy to set up. It felt like I was playing with legos.
Was*
Did you brake something?
Solid content
I just snagged one of these for $400 on a flash sale on Amazon!
I love the music that come whith creality quality control make me laugh a lot
I feel like I have way too many QC issues with Creality machines. Despite being mass produced at a larger scale, their QC is no better than any of the other brands I've worked with, and in many cases it is worse. But at least they are innovating with this new batch of printers! I'm all for that!
NOICE video man! I was thinking of going for this 3D printer, Id like to get one where i could upgrade it as I am a mechanical engineering student, and enjoy this kinda stuff. Id LOVE to hear your opinion on which printer (max 500 euro) that has the most potential for 3D printing wide range of materials and structures.
Thank u for your time and expertise! :)
I like the Ender 3 simply because it had the biggest community around upgrading and modifying it. However, I think something running Klipper would really serve you well as an engineer. Really gives you some hands on experience configuring a little computer to robot stuff.
If you want something that just works and has a huge print area I’d recommend the artillery sidewinder x2. You can get one around 300€ through my links. The SV-06 and upcoming SV-06 plus (idk if it’s been officially announced yet) are also great low budget printers that would leave some room for upgrades, like a klipper interface. Or self-build a rook printer, look up @rolohaun
@@NathanBuildsRobots oh great! I'll check them out. I also have my eye on the elegoo 3 Neptune plus. What would be your opinion?
I'm definitely going to get into Klipper 😁
Thank you for your quick reply!
@@wesleydutoit6901 I have no experience with Elegoo machines, so I couldn't recommend them one way or the other. They seem nice from what I have seen.
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah, looked through your videos after I commented, should have imagined. But they are very similar to the sovol line... So depends on which one I can get ( would like the plus). Where can I find the link to the artillery?
@@wesleydutoit6901 just go to the artillery sidewinder x2 review, by me, should be there!
Hi, what would be your personal recommendation between Artillery Sidewinder X2 & Ender 3 S1 Pro? Thanks.
I would get the X2. Great value printer that churns out parts. Only weakness is the hotend IMO. But with the $ saved you can upgrade it to be quite good.
@@NathanBuildsRobots, your videos are very instructive thank you! Actually I don't need a large working bed like the X2, I think the Genius Pro could do the job. I print almost exclusively thin wall LW-PLA, PLA & ABS , would you still point at the Artillery? Or not?
I have the Ender 3 S1 Max, basically a pro with bigger buildplate. The hardware on the machine is great, definitely a big update from the standard Ender 3's. Only annoying thing is the shit firmware UI but otherwise its an amazing machine that has everything you need.
Where did you happen to source the hictop 235x235mm spring steel sheet?
I have an affiliate link in the video description:
PEI Sheet - amzn.to/3n2IewU
i feel like the Ender 3 Max Neo is an insanely good deal. i just bought the S1 Pro (hasn't arrived yet) and i'm starting to wish i had bought the Max Neo for very similar specs but a larger print volume.
Direct drive is worth the extra $$$
Plus dual axis leadscrew. Idk about the Neo printers, looks like same old design
@@NathanBuildsRobots it has dual axis, and the direct drive kit is just $40 on the creality store. so for the regular price difference of $370 vs 480 for the S1 Pro, it really looks like a good deal.
@@thinkdunsons1 pro has all metal hot end as well
Finally, an honest review
Does the part cooling fan run all the time ?
No, you can turn the part cooling fan off if you are printing PETG or something
Hi. I'm one click away from buying this printer and it will be my first one. One question, which device are you using to get the temperature from the stepper motor at 9:30 ?
I am using a FLIR One Pro. I usually turn off their edge detection enhanced imaging and just use the raw thermal image. There is a cheaper version but I would not recommend it since the thermal resolution is much lower.
It's surprisingly accurate for temperatures too.
Amazon affiliate Link:
amzn.to/3GhjfAW
I subbed cos I didnt wanna break your heart 🤣🤣
How did ABL work? Everyone is reporting the S1 Pro CR-Touch ABL is broken/not-working and we're all having to resort to auxiliary/manual levelling
Its working fine on my S1 and S1 pro. Its broken on my S1 Plus, haven't been able to get it working at all. Creality QC is #1!
Ok i just sent back my week okd Elegoo Neptune 3 because the gears were grinding 😣now what should i get ??????🤔
I like my Artillery Sidewinder
@@NathanBuildsRobots Do you have a video on it ?
@@JerseyStyle7
th-cam.com/video/5tjE3QAOkWc/w-d-xo.html
@@NathanBuildsRobots thank you 😊 👍🏽 looking for a new machine hopefully this is the one
It was unplugged while you were working on it right?
The power switch is a disconnect switch. I always make sure its off before messing with it because the stepper motor drivers are really easy to fry, and if you fry one on this machine you have to replace the entire motherboard.
When you broke the heatbreak did you forget to loosen the set screw?
I was trying to unscrew the heatbreak so I could put a new heater block on it.
It's not direct drive?
Would the voxelab s2 be competitor to the s1 pro
Voxelab is really the best value for money brand.
They give you a lot of good features, at a good price.
The S1 Pro has some additional features that make it worth it in my opinion:
A superior dual gear direct drive extruder.
Dual z-axis lead screws
Touch Screen (if that matters to you)
Automatic bed leveling
Bigger modding community
Personally, I would go with the S1 standard edition. I bought one with my own money and it's been great.
What's your recommendation on buying a machine within this price range, maybe even a couple hundred more, that would outperform this ender s1 pro?
I would recommend the Ender 3 S1 Max, since i really like having the option to print 300x300mm.
All of the S1 printers are pretty much "as good as it gets" in terms of performance for a non-enclosed, bed-slinger printer. Finally reaching near-parity with the Prusa I3Mk3s
The weak points, as I've covered are the poor-ish part cooling fan and the inherent limitations of a non-enclosed bedslinger design. But the extruder, and motion system are really great.
A nice-to-have feature would be octoprint or klipper integration. I'm kind of surprised no major printer companies have done it yet, since it is something I know I would pay extra for.
@@NathanBuildsRobots wow thanks for the informative response. There are so many types and knock offs that it's hard to navigate through the sea of seemingly endless options. I've been leaning towards the Enders for sure although if I had the extra loot I would want the new bamboo or the ankermaker5 even.
I'll have to look up the octoprint and klipper because I've no idea what they refer too.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Ender 3 S1 Max? I don't think there is a "Max" version. I believe you mean the "Ender 3 S1 Plus right?
@@ecobasetech4558 yeah, that's what I meant. I got one and it won't print - something wrong with the mainboard :(
As soon as I fix it I'll make a video on it
Whats the diference between Spriter struder in S1 and Sprite Struder PRO?
Effectively it's just a slightly higher wattage heater cartridge, higher temperature thermistor, and an all-metal heatbreak
"Ground Zero sound deadening"!!
You're welcome
I got some Amazon basics knockoff sticky mats, will see if they work. I'll just slap it on all over the frame I guess?
@@NathanBuildsRobots should work similarly. I did on the inside of the frame all large areas that can resonate. Just like you would a car door etc
It's definitely BN paste! I just soaked it with IPA, It took a couple min :)
What would you recommend for a newbie 3d print enthusiast.?
My favorites right now are the Ender 3 S1 (standard edition) or the Artillery Sidewinder x2. They both have pros and cons that I cover in my dedicated videos on those printers
TLDR: Ender 3 s1 has better modding and community support, Artillery is easier to use/ better out of the box, while also offering significantly larger print area.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thank you very much i was a bit concerned as people stated that Prusa is top quality but the price point and import duty becomes around 1000+ dollars in my third world country thank you for your opinion and clarity .Have a nice day
@@crewneckdeath6801 I have used prusas. They have issues just like any other printer, so don't feel you need to spend $1000 to get into the hobby.
If you want a good, cheap printer is look at the voxelab aquila. Sometimes they are under $150
@@NathanBuildsRobots thank you very much again.Too much marketing in youtube head stops working .Thank you for the unbiased answer.Good day sir.
Does it come with ferrules?
Yes, all of the new Creality printers I have tried have ferrules for the high power connectors.
How do u enjoy this printer so far do u still use this printer
I cut it up for parts. Mr clicky stole the cable from this machine so I have not been using it. Its a nice solid printer though. I would still recommend the Ender 5 S1 over this, or the Artillery sidewinder X2 for a better value printer.
@@NathanBuildsRobots u own the ender 5 s1 ?
@@monsterstorm78 yes, just posted a video about it, will be posting another in a bit
Perfect upgrade would be a hardened steel nozzle
The card reader on mine doesn't even work😔 I tried all of the different "solutions" and had no luck
Sounds like you need a warranty replacement!
I have no stringing at all on mine, weird
excellent work, i also have the same opinion
Just got my S1 Pro. I'm impressed with the hardware, but the firmware is awful, way too many bugs and I'm on the latest one. I'm pretty disappointed with it. I would tell people just to get the S1 instead, save the extra money and slowly upgrade if they want to. I will be looking at using the Klipper firmware that's all the rage right now.
I need to do some more Klipper content. I've got some cool stuff in the works. Since raspberry pis were expensive, I bought an old MacBook air on ebay. It's running Klipper now 😀
Firmware on most 3D printers is just good enough to get it out the door, no better or worse. I think s lot of bug fixes come from the community, but that takes some time to happen.
i had the basic ender 3 befor this one i can tell you right away when you see Crealty run away these printers are made to work on them constantly not to print smootly
You were one of the unlucky ones in the Creality-lottery, my S1 is working flawlessly, tho i would rather sell it and get a cheaper printer that has the same functions, ive been looking at Sidewinder X2 Mingda Magician X, but most likely ill just splurge on Bambu Lab X1 Carbon :P
My S1 is working great, my S1 pro is working pretty good, and my S1 Plus is just not working, so I've got a little bit of everything from Creality.
The Magician X works decently, but it's got a lot of plastic parts, like the base and leadscrew nuts. And even after using it, i'm not sure how the bed-leveling sensor works. Which is just a little unsettling, but hey, it works.
I like the Sidewinder X2 a lot. Really well-rounded. On my Artillery Hornet, it took a couple hrs to figure out how to flash firmware onto it. I needed to download a program from STM, and had to put a jumper on the motherboard before it could be flashed. I assume the X2 is the same way. But this isn't really a problem if you just leave stock firmware on it.
The Bambu Lab X1 looks amazing, I'm looking forward to the 2nd round of reviews, from Kickstarter backers that paid real money for them. From what I've seen things are going pretty well. Only thing thing I can knock it for is closed source firmware that is trying to do A LOT of things. It will probably be a slightly buggy experience for the first couple months while Bambu fixes things. Over the air updates means it will probably won't be an issue for too long.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Ah, sounds like I'll be getting X1 Carbon, i never buy a brand new printer, I rather wait 2-3 batches so most of the issues have been ironed out, it's a breakthrough in consumer 3D printing
That moment at 10:53 x)
Lock tite?
Everybody seems to be very happy with s1pro but my experience is strangely quite disappointing. Previous printer was ender 3 with replaced silent motherboard and 2 fans replaced with silent version. It was virtually silent and printing precision was very good (out of box since the start, printed around 4-5kg of pla in total). S1Pro is NOISY! the motors make noise which is halfway between silent mb and old ender 3, the fans are also very noisy. The adhesion is bad - all rectangular shapes warp horribly on 1/2 corners. The corners overshoot significantly. Hope I can still figure out how to tune the slicer parameters to workaround, but feels so bad to pay twice as much and get all that headache...
Yes, a big problem with that big boxy base is it acts just like a guitar body, resonating and amplifying nose from the motors.
I think a lot of people want a silent machine, which is totally doable with minor changes to the design.
Strict No reading the manual policy😂
You should never, ever print carbon fibre bylon on a brass nozzle. It will not remain 0.4mm for long, no matter how much z-hopping you enable, and let's not forget quality issues and stringing that can happen when z hopping so much.
I was planning on changing the hotend/nozzle out so I wasn't too concerned about longevity. And it turns out that hotend didn't live long!
Also, I came across the Z-hopping issue on my latest video. Hadn't noticed it before but you're right. Z-hops, if set too high, cause some of the worst stringing.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yeah, I was pretty set on getting that printer, since I want to buy another one within a week or two, but seeing the stuff that was glued like that, and even more so, such important componants to be able to just remove, it made me re-think the purchase. So now I'm at a loss, honestly, of what to buy.
Lmao 10:52
lol Magic Smoke...