Ender 3 S1 Pro 3D Printer Review - Is It Actually Worth That Much?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2022
- There seems to be a new Ender 3 printer from Creality every other week but their latest offering has more features than any before it. Does this make the Ender 3 S1 Pro the best Ender 3 you can buy? In this video i'm going to find out.
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Other videos referenced:
Automatic Bed Leveling • 3d Printer Automatic B...
PID Tune • How To PID Tune Your M...
Ender 3v2 Review • Ender 3 v2 - Still The...
Artillery Sidewinder X2 Review • Artillery Sidewinder X...
Filament Drybox • Ultimate Filament Stor...
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*I've had quite a few people ask about my Cura start and end g-code for this machine. It's nothing special but feel free to try it if you want (just copy and paste)*
Start G-code:
; Ender 3 S1 Pro Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
M420 S1 Z10 ; Use saved Bed Mesh
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
End G-code:
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
would like to see you make both videos you mentioned very helpful thanks
This is very high production quality. Keep it up!
The start and end G-Code for Cura you have in you description works like a dream, fixed a lot of the issues I was having with other slicers. It provided amazing detail in my print alongside little horizontal line deviation! Thank you so much!
Just received the Ender 3 S1 Pro for the holidays and your videos help me start printing in no time. Thank you for the quality content!
Thank you for the strain relief design. Just printed and installed it!
Your video on leveling the S1 pro was the best and resolved my issue. I loved this one as well, I also agree with everything you said including pre assembly issues from Creality.
thanks again for the review - wish this video was up when I was trying to figure out how to get the wobble out of my s1 pro bed. First printer I've had and am very happy with it.!
now printing out a surfboard fin ;) A video on how to change the filament mid print would be handy thank you.
Thank you for this information. liked, subbed, bell rung
Looks awesome, just ordered mine!
Could you make a video of creality laser module? Love the content and great walkthru
I'm liking mine so far. I've only had it for about 2 weeks now but it's a nice upgrade over my Ender 3 v2.
Great review! My Ender 3 S1 Pro arrived today. Got almost as good prints out of the box as with my heavily modified Ender 3 Pro. One thing I found that really helped with the corners on a calibration cube was to bump the X and Y jerk from the standard 5mm p/s to 20mm p/s. Perfectly square corners now! Unlike your bed I found that the rollers we way too tight as were the X and Y Belts.
Nice review and the perfect amount of technical info. I’m relatively new to 3D printing but subscribing to your channel has helped a lot. I expect your channel will take off with subscribers as time goes forward.
Thanks Sam, glad you liked the review. Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent quality as always, Ricky.
Ive just bought one as my first 3d printer.
It arrived yesterday.
So far its still in the box as I need to move some things around in the office to make room. (Maybe this weekend or the next)
I got one of these in May, complete noob and didn't even snug the rollers for about a month (didn't even know that was a thing) and it's been cranking stuff out non stop. Starting playing with Nylon yesterday, there's a learning curve, but I've already got functional parts after a couple minor tweaks. This thing is awesome.
Great video Ricky, I got my S1 pro last week and it's been pumping out great prints non stop all week. Thanks for the tips on setting up the machine, your info about adding the line of code to use the bed mesh was vital.
Great to hear!👍
good review keep the good work .
Thank you so much for all the video related to S1 Pro, the video were you level the bed is on point and cover all details possible. Your videos have helped me learn so much.
Great, glad I've been able to help.
I am enjoying mine. I too had to fiddle with the bed before doing auto leveling as it was quite loose. Have only had it a few weeks and only 3 prints so far. For a complete beginner It didn't take long to get the first print happening. Yes I would like to see a video of how you changed filament mid print.
Nice video, Ricky. New subscriber, here. I've had my Ender 3 S1 Pro for a few months now and have been quite happy with it. It is the first 3D printer I've owned. Mine did not have the bed roller looseness you described, but the X axis belt was quite loose. Fortunately, tension adjustment for that belt is very simple on this printer.
I would like to see your proposed video on changing filament mid-print. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your work.
Hi Tim, welcome to the channel. I already released the filament change video, you can find it here th-cam.com/video/BZeFiAH1-bg/w-d-xo.html
just got one a few days ago, it was flawless out of the box. all i had to do was the basic assembly and it produced unreal good quality with zero effort on my part
Im happy with my Ender 3 S1 Pro..very good printer plug and play...
Love you're videos man! And I thank you for all the help and advice you give us!! And if u still read these I'm sorry it's long! As to adding more content on the ender 3 s1 pro. I'd personally love to see all you have to offer!!! I'd love to master my machine and know all the info I can on it and u only help in that endeavor!!! That said I along with i think many others would love to see you rip apart cura/creality slicer and give us some good in-depth knowledge on it. I watch all kinds of informative videos on here to learn as much as possible, but there are not too many people that I feel explain as well as you do sir! Again I tip my hat to you and would love to see more content on the ender 3 s1 pro as there are few vids out here actually and none that compare so please keep up the good work and thanks for taking your time for all of us out here that want to learn and grow!
Hi, thanks for the great comment. Of course I read the comments! I love the feedback, it helps me work out what to make videos about. Unfortunately I am probably a little slower at replying than i was. I will definitely take your suggestions and try to create some more useful content. Is there anything S1 Pro specific that you would like to see? I like the Cura guide suggestion. There are a lot of videos out there but I forget that there is a lot more to say and people all learn in different ways. I will try to construct something that is as concise as possible that builds on some of the other guides I have done. Thanks for the feedback👍
Excellent review!
Really helped me make up my mind as to what printer to buy.
Great, thanks for the comment Nigel.
Great video man!
We used your UK code and got a good discount thanks for that and the great video
Great, glad you took advantage of the discount 👍
Just picked up the S1 Pro. Your video is great and helped push me over in deciding to grab it. Just got it for under $400 on Amazon lightening deal. Thanks!
Great, hope you love yours too.
I bought the S1 Pro last week, and just ordered the Sonic Pad this evening based on your in depth info.. will be watching again once I come to setup my printer and pad... Spot on..
Glad you like the videos👍
Just got mine! Micro Center had it for $369! Love it!
Nice review
After hear so many problem maybe it's better I choose other printer.
Another concise and engaging review! I enjoyed it so much I bit the bullet yesterday (thanks to some good UK deals) and my 3 S1 Pro arrived today. As expected, the assembly was a breeze but the Creality QC needs improvement. A loose print bed, stiff Z-axis rollers, a tight Y-belt and a few bolts that needed to be snugged down. All fixable so far! Your bed levelling video was really useful so I'm ready to add the G-Code once I install the Slicer & Print software on my Mac. Looking forward to finally being able to print TPU parts for my drone after owning a PLA-only Zonestar P802M since @2014!! Keep up the good work 👍
TPU prints still really impress me. I think it's my favourite material. Enjoy👍
@@RickyImpey No issues with PLA thanks to your advice. Spiral XYZ calibration cube was turned out extremely well, even at 0.2mm layers. Dimensional accuracy was only 0.6/0.1/0.4% on XYZ axes respectively. First TPU print planned for this evening!! Cheers 👍
... and it worked with Sunlu 95A TPU filament on Blue Tape over the PEI plate. Good adhesion but snapped off without any drama. A perfect fit for an SMA connector and a metal standoff on one of my drones. Kinda guessed at the retraction settings based on other TPUs. No stringing, and 0.2mm layer height absolutely adequate for the intended use. What a relief!! Thx again 👍
It's intersting, I recently bought the Mingda Magician X and it had the same issue where the start Gcode didn't include the M420 code. I was wondering why all my prints wouldn't stick until I noticed that, and after, I had 0 issues. I'll be getting this printer after your review, but I will be modding it a bit. I feel that having an all metal hotend, really warrants a hardened steel nozzle or equivalent to really take an advantage of it. I'll also be changing the fans, being spoiled by the near-silent Mingda.
I was having problems with my End3 V2 extruder, saw the Sprite Pro extruder and decided to give it a try. I got much the same result as you did, although I would NOT use Creality firmware or slicer. I had problems with both. I used Jyre’s UI. Bryan Vines has a pretty good video on both the Sprite Pro and Jyre’s UI.
BTW, in the documentation for upgrading it mention the retraction should be .8mm, not 8mm. I found that to be accurate on PTEG, but made TPU string pretty bad. But 5mm made TPU jam pretty bad, so it mush be somewhere between.
I’ve had my ender 3 S1 pro for a week now. Thanks for reviewing and for other vids on leveling etc. I found my cables to reach just fine but have opted to print and use your retainer clip for better cable management. I am having issues with my hot plate distorting which makes the auto leveling have to compensate over 1 mm in the center. I have taken apart and and straightened aluminum plate a little. I think the plate still distorts during printing causing my prints to be knocked by the nozzle. This is especially the case on smaller footprint pieces. I’m yet to play around with fan speeds and bed temps. I’m considering a better base plate upgrade but it’s not a simple swap out.
Can you do a video on properly adjusting the rollers?
I bought one of these this morning. Can't wait until it gets here.
Great. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I like mine.
I still have the first version of the ender 3 Pro but have added skr board and glass bed . But this is the code I use for filament change
M17 ; Enable ALL Steppers
G91 ; Set Relative Positioning
G1 E-5 F500 ; Retract filament slightly
G0 Z50 F500 ; Move Z OUT OF THE WAY
M104 S220 ; Standby Temperature
M0 ; PAUSE - Wait for Button Press
M109 S220 ; Resume temperature
G0 Z-50 F500 ; Move Z BACK
G90 ; return to absolute positioning
Hi Ricky, thank you for all the information about the setup, very informative. Do you happen to have an updated link Code for the EU store? the one in the description has expired
Hi, thanks for letting me know. I will ask them for a new code.
Haha that's hilarious. Just got mine and also tried to do a filament change mid print only for it to be buggy af. Also would love to see that live z.
Try this method, works for me th-cam.com/video/BZeFiAH1-bg/w-d-xo.html
excelente video, si ya tienes el video del metodo para el cambio de color quiero conocerlo en esta maquina. Adicionalmente aun no logro con las retracciones en mi S1pro.
Yes on the mid print filament change video! I have an ender 2 pro and I'm looking for something better.
Thanks for the comment, the filament change video is out already th-cam.com/video/BZeFiAH1-bg/w-d-xo.html There are also some big discounts on the Ender 3 S1 Pro for the next couple of weeks, check out the details in the description if you are thinking seriously about an upgrade.
I was super close to getting the s1 plus as my first printer, but qidi max had 100 off the max and that narrowed the price difference to much for me to not go for the qidi xmax. I feel like I made the right decision.
Hello, I love all the insights you bring to us. I wanted to say that I believe I received one of the machines that misbehave.
It is driving me crazy, it will go wacko and then when I am about to dump the thing it prints phenomenally. I tried talking to Creality about it but they just kept stalling it until I couldn't;t ask to return it. Very disappointed with the company. I wish I had purchased an Anycubic like I originally wanted. Not sure if I should try installing the firmware from the factory installation. It says it has the latest update. And the slicer is periodic. Not consistent enough for me. Any suggestions will be appreciated!
I must be lucky, my 3 v2 Neo came perfectly adjusted. Belts were perfectly tuned and bed was perfectly level after running the auto leveling. Only thing is I realized why people are saying to tune every few prints because it does get unleveled very easily.
Our first 3D printer and it's been going non-stop! The bed was a little wobbly, but we made a few adjustments, then ran the auto-level and it's been perfect. Our son has spent the last two days printing a challenging cards box - it's his first print. The box has turned out perfect! Maybe the rest of us will get to use it now LOL
Ah great, I'm glad to hear that you're enjoying your new 3d printer. Well, your son is at least🤣
mine came in great, for the first print i only did a bed adjustment. very impressed with the resolution, but i guess that is just my mind only knowing 1e gen printers till i bought a modern one :P
PS: did have problems with the extruder, it wont go strait onto the holder, i had to use a little filler to but between the bottom of the extruder and the holder.
Otherwise it would not sit level with the bed and the lvl tool would drag the bed.... so it was not all sunshine :P its just that the first test print was not big enough to have the tester scrape the printed bits. Still.... loving it!
I’ve modified my Ender 3v2 with direct drive microswiss, dual lead screws, bed leveler, replacement bed springs, etc, to get basically the same product. I saved some cash overall, got a lot out of the experience, and the customization support helped with further modification for enclosure and wire management, but if I ever wanted a second one with the same capabilities to increase my output, I’d probably go for one of these (or the larger one, since I only need the hotend for nylon firearm builds that are always designed with 220x220 build volume in mind). Time is money, afterall.
I do love that about the Ender 3 range. You can take something that is a relatively low budget machine and modify it to the spec you want. I would love to put together a printer like yours and put it back to back with the S1 Pro 🤔
I’m completely new to the idea of 3D printers but my plan was to do something similar that you mentioned with firearms. What advice/recommendations do you have for temp management and what kind of nylon? Again I really don’t know anything about 3D printers so any information would be greatly appreciated
Please make a video on how you did mid-print filament color change :)
Hi, you can find the filament change video here: th-cam.com/video/BZeFiAH1-bg/w-d-xo.html
Great video! Could you clarify the very last sentence of the review? It sounds like you're giving a glowing review (except for the few cons), but you end with on the conclusion that it "falls a little bit short". Is this specifically related to being a good beginner printer, or for a printer at this price range in general?
Hi, I feel with the S1 Pro that Creality could and should have refined it a little before releasing it to market. It could have been great. I get a lot of comments from beginners who say that there is not enough information on how to create a bed mesh, how to change filament mid-print etc. I have released a number of video guides since making the review video so hopefully you will find what you need on my channel if you bought one. I really liked it but felt that for how much it was at release, I wanted it to be perfect. Now the price is lower, I think it's a great option.
@@RickyImpey Thank you :) haven't gotten it yet, but definitely considering it.
I have one and out of the box everything was set just fine, did a quick bed lvl and started printing.
Great👍
I liked mine so much, I got 2 more. I can't imagine using only one printer. Setup was a breeze and quality is top notch.
Thanks for your comment, glad you are happy with yours.... all of them🙂
Like to see filament change video
Your Ender 3 S1 Pro videos are the best I have ever seen. I have a question - As you suggested, I added the "M420 S1 Z10" comment in the Start G Code section of Cura. It it safe to add the G29 Auto Level code also? Or is this G29 code no longer necessary?
Thanks Allen, the G29 code is no longer necessary when you have the m420 code.
Thank you! The Ender 3 S1 Pro is a FANTASTIC printer, it just works. I upgraded from the Ender 3 v2 which I had to spend more time fiddling with than actually printing.
Thanks for the harness! Can you just save the S1 Pro profile out of Creality slicer and load it in Cura 5? (And yeah, I'd love to see how you swap filaments mid print)
Unfortunately you can't just use the Creality Slicer profiles in Cura but I worked out how it can be done. I will put together a quick video along with a filament change one👍
@@RickyImpey amazing, thanks so much! I've got the S1 plus btw. It seems to be printing beautifully, as the pro did. And it also seems to have the exact same problems you discovered with the pro (loose wheels, cable length). I'm also a little concerned it always homes the nozzle right on the bed before printing.
Swapping out filament is really easy.
1. To just change the color it's as easy as pausing the print and changing the filament, make sure that the filament is all the way into the nozzle, of you need to change it at a specific layer it is a bit more involved.
2. Search for "pause print in Cura" TH-cam video. It is just as easy-to-use as changing the filament at any other point.
Thanks!
Thanks Mike👍
For the Z offset, do you do it in auto home or do you place it in position one y aux leveling?
Here's my two cents about the review:
Awesome video - stumbled across your videos by accident by searching for Leveling fixes for the S1 Pro. You're one of the few people online that show the S1 Pro and not the Ender 3 or S1.
Appreciate the indepth dive.
This is my first 3D Printer and am really happy with it.
Now for the printer itself:
Going in I knew about "Quality control issues". And I am not equipped with two left hands. I love to tinker and know how to solve problems.
But boy oh boy was this a ride.
1) Bed rollers were wobbly. Excenter-Nut solved that.
2) X-Gantry floppy. Again the Excenter-Nuts were too lose and meant that the right rollers weren't even making contact with the V-Beam.
3) Z-Axis Screws way too tight due to misaligned top / bottom ? I couldn't even move the X-Gantry by hand and this meant that when the printer reversed direction you could hear a hard "CLUNK" as if torque was released. I had some Z-Axis print-issues. I loosened the mounting brackets for the two Z-Axis motors aswell as the top mounts for the screws. Everything could move freely. Retightened and I think I have fixed it now. Not sure. Time and testprints will tell.
All in All it's exactly like you said in your review. It's not plug and print. But it COULD be if Creality get's their QC together and fixes this.
Yep, they design pretty good machines but rarely put them together well. There are others that are starting to do it all better and if Creality don't sort out their issues, they are going to get left behind. Thanks for the comment giving your experiences. It's a shame that it seems you got worse build quality than me but glad you are capable of putting it right👍
@@RickyImpey Thank you for helping me as a newbie out with your great videos and especially the tutorial on Bed leveling and the addition of G-Code that is required to even use the bed-leveling. Appreciate the effort you put in your videos.
@@RickyImpey Can you do a video for PID on the Pro as well? Can't find a video for it. It doesn't seem to have AutoPID tuning like other models.
@@TheD3adlysin Have you watched this video? This is how to PID tune a 3d printer if you can't do it on the screen th-cam.com/video/DG1Yvt02l1I/w-d-xo.html
@Ricky Impey Watching it now. Kinda fascinating that the Ender -3 S1 has AutoPID but somehow this Pro version omitted the feature...baffling.
Thanks for your great videos! My grandson and I just put together and Ender 3 V2 Pro using your method. Worked flawlessly.
Maybe a dumb question... I quickly scanned the comments but didn't see anything about this. Sorry if I'm being redundant.
The PEI build surface requires a magnetic sheet on the bed, right? Am I misinformed or is there a rather low temperature limit with this kind of setup? I remember hearing somewhere that you can only print with magnetic adhesion up to temperatures around 60C since the adhesive magnet quickly degrades. Don't many materials require much higher bed temps?
Again, thanks!
Hi, no problem. Yes, in theory higher temperatures will degrade the magnet but I haven't experienced it myself yet over multiple printers with magnetic beds. What do you plan to print that would need higher bed temperatures?
@@RickyImpey Thank you - Good to hear. You seem to really like the PEI plate. I'd like to try it.
PETG would be the only material I'd be worried about. I've printed it on the Creality textured glass plate using 75-degrees C. I wouldn't be printing ABS, but I think they recommend even higher.
@@mikelynch4361 I print PETG on the PEI bed at 60°C and it's good. I have had it mark the smooth side where it sticks a little too well so I use the textured side for PETG. I like the way PEI releases easily with PLA and PETG on the rough side.
Haven't seen it mentioned, but you can purchase this printer right now on eBay refurbished for $350 + free shipping. Fully covered with a 2 year warranty and is manufacturer approved.
For under $400 you can have this printer and an entire roll of PLA at your door. SOLD
Great video. I have one of these as well. Would you mind checking the e-steps on your machine. Stock value seems to be 424.9, but I have measured the true value to be precisely 431 on my machine, and I suspect it's the same on them all.
I will do. I haven't done any calibration yet so need to do e steps, PID tune etc. I'll let you know what I find.
@@RickyImpey Nice. They've made e-steps very easy by having a menu for it under settings > adv.setting> movement> tx
@@DKFX1 nice👍
Great video. I’m finding it hard to adjust the Z offset. You can only change it by .5. On my V2 Neo you can change it by .1. Am I missing something or can you change it by .1 on the S1 Pro?
Hi, yes some machines don't let you change the offset in the smaller increments but .5 seems very large for a z offset adjustment. .05 would be fine. Sorry, I don't have a Neo to be able to check what is possible.
@@RickyImpey sorry I meant .05 that’s all the S1 pro will let you change it by. The V2 Neo will let you change it by .01. I find sometimes .05 in too much
When are you going to post the filament change video?
Ricky. Do you know if there is a way to adjust the flow rate on the fly as I can do with my Ender 3 pro from the UI? Thanks as always.
Hi Sam, unfortunately I don't think you can with the he S1 Pro.
Got this printer for my birthday, but when I print I have to start with the nozzle low enough to have the print to stick on the bed, once the first layer is done I have to bring it up a bit so it won't push on the printed object. Is there anything I can do about it? The prints I've done so far look nice and clean, no lines to close or too far, but I need to do manual adjustmen during print, which does not seem to be the way to go
I wish mine printed that well right out of the box. Ender 5 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Plus are both printing poor quality when using the ABL. Sonic Pad on S1 Plus has been a nightmare.
I mentioned on another review, I would prefer it was shipped with loose rollers, as sometimes the wheels end up with a flat spot after storage and shipping. This might even be why some rollers are loose, as many people complained. But no, it shouldn't be touted as ready to go if that's the case. But I'll be happy if the rollers are loose upon delivery.
Oh definitely, much better than too tight but they should tell people how to adjust them like you say.
Hey Ricky any chance you can do a video on the anycubic standard? It has no springs to adjust.
Hi, I would love to but I don't have one I'm afraid.
I have my ender 3 s1 pro for 4 months now. it just occurred to me that the layers on my prints are not consistent and could result from Ζ- binding. I checked my printer and the belt on the Z-axis is off. On the left side (looking from the back) it is on the bottom and on the right side (looking from the back) it is on the top. I also put a glue bottle to check the alignment and it is a bit of on the left side (looking from the front). The 3 rollers on each side of the Z-axis are imbalanced. How can I fix these??
Hi Ricky apologies for the additional comment. I have uploaded a video showing the issues I described earlier.th-cam.com/video/Y7sQgvUEj0w/w-d-xo.html Please let me know
I have ordered on yesterday and it should arrive in a few days, I can't wait
EDIT: Wish I saw this video and the coupon yesterday, that would have saved me £60
Oh no, that's a shame. I'm sure you'll love it though.
I have a Ender 3 s1 pro, first i do the auto leveling after that i check manualy, the 5 positions, allá check, but when i try to print the rabit example, the nozzle start way to : from the bed, anyone knows why? Please help, first printer
Ricky- thanks for great video! But for the life of me I can't get my S1 Pro to do "auto bed leveling" before starting a print? I'm using Cura 5 and tried this once before from info in one of your videos and tried it again today using the "M420 S1 Z10" command in the start G-code just like you did in this video. No worky as it just goes directly to purge line and then starts printing. Any ideas? Thanks, Gerry
Hi Gerry, why do you want to create a new mesh before each print? You can do that by using the 'G29' code instead of the 'M420' line but it shouldn't be necessary. If you follow my guide on 'leveling', you should only need to do it when you change something. th-cam.com/video/GmhBYOEb-ro/w-d-xo.html
@@RickyImpey Thanks for the reply! It's not that I necessarily want to do a bed mesh before each print. I'm fairly new to this 3D thing and inquiring minds like to know how to do things 🤔. You showed it in the video so I just wanted to see if it would work and it doesn't with the M420 line. Again thanks, Gerry
i have bought S1 Plus as my very first printer and exchanged hotend with copper heatbreak so it should be able to go up to 300 C .so i think best of Pro and plus. Only thing for me in the beggining was i think that firmware cause to bump nozle to heatbed so i have small dots in it. I updated firmware last week and looks like that home Z position doesn't go all the way down so it is not hitting bed anymore.
Giving the S1 Plus an all-metal heatbreak is a great mod. As you say, now it has the best of both the Pro and Plus. It wouldn't surprise me if Creality do this themselves soon.
The mother board burnt out on mine and it took me 2 weeks to convince customer service it was a hardware issue not related to CR touch. It lasted less than a week.
In your video on bed leveling, a user mentioned that the ABL measurements were making his s1 pro behave worse rather than better. Were you able to confirm the problem, or did you find that it's working correctly?
I'm asking because I have the s1 (not the pro), but I assume the problem will be in both machines.
As per the video, I tried to re-create the ABL problem on this machine but couldn't. This one didn't have that issue.
@@RickyImpey sorry, I missed that somehow. Thanks for the reply!
1) Um... that bottom plate... Where are the holes that correspond with the exhaust holes on PSU?
Seems to be the reason why PSU fan is always working.
2) Does it really need double-Z and restricted top ends on both?
I thought Ender frame can hold heavy direct hotends just fine since the granddaddy Ender 3, so why pay for it?
3) Do you experience false positives on filament run-out sensor (mostly with very flexible filaments)?
Overall, I just feel this machine costs about $100 more than it should...
Great review. I just got my S1 Pro. For some reason when I run autolevel and go back into Aux level the Z offset is way lower than it should be and it drives the nozzle into the bed. I have also had the nozzle be way high, like up to 4mm. Not sure why my autolevel is being so inconsistent. I've checked all rollers and eliminated some (not all) of the slop in the Z rod bushings. The bed also has a pretty bad low spot in the middle and the autolevel does not seem to accommodate for. I'm less than impressed with this printer :(
Oh no! It certainly sounds like something is not right. It obviously shouldn't be doing that. Have you tried resetting the EEPROM, setting the z offset to see if it works ok without the bed mesh? I guess if your bed probe is not triggering correctly then you're never going to get a consistent z height 🤔 Have you tried contacting Creality for support?
@@RickyImpey yea I just sent them a response - see video (if you want) th-cam.com/video/-l6K1gAY1WI/w-d-xo.html
I have not tried resetting EPROM, not sure I know how, but I'll look it up. If I run the autolevel, then go back and manually correct the printer prints great. I'm just miffed that the automation is not working correctly.
@@SinisterGamingTabletop Watched your video. As you say, something is definitely not right. The only thing I couldn't see and you can check out, are the z axis lead screws moving when you drive the nozzle to the different points on the bed? If they are then it confirms that the printer is using the bed mesh to compensate for what it thinks is an uneven bed. That would very much narrow it down to a probe or mesh issue. I have seen other comments where people have had similar issues and I even tried to make mine mess up when I reviewed it but couldn't. I think there are a few people in the community looking for a solution but it would be interesting to see what Creality suggest here. Keep me posted.
OMG, I never even thought about that. I just checked and they do move ever so slightly. Thank you for that suggestion! I was wracking my brain about how to find out if it was doing what it was supposed to. I spent some time today tweaking on this thing. I trammed the X axis to get it into spec with a caliper. I also used it to get the bed the exact same height in all 4 corners. I then autoleveled and the Z was much closer. I ran Aux level and this bed has a terrible low spot in the middle. With Z offset about where it needs to be the nozzle is way too low on the corners. I've never had luck with these mag beds. I'll be moving to glass on this one as well it looks like. I ran a 17 hour print that came out beautifully though. Looking forward to what Creality has to say.
@@SinisterGamingTabletop Glad you're making progress but they need to fix it for you😏
We have 3 of these printers in adapter school program for high school students. Iam learning how to use it. I started using tinkercad and the slicer to create stuff. How can I create something I saw on line? I would like to create this small bow arrow that actually shots its own arrow?
You will need to learn how to use the CAD software like Tinkercad if you want to create your own designs. Have you tried searching websites like thingiverse or cults3d for models that other people have created? You will probably find free files to download and print.
@@RickyImpey no but I will. I been watching tutorials on how to ise tinkercad and iam becoming more familiar wirh it
Got this on sale for £289 from the official store!!
Hello Ricky, I have a question.
I had recently got an Ender 3 S1 (not the pro), and I'm basically relearning everything since my V2 worked flawlessly after I set it up. For some reason when I print the cura first layer test I have certain areas with under extrusion. I re-trammed my bed, made a new dot mesh, and cleaned out my nozzle for any clogs via the needle. I can only assume that my retraction settings are off in some way, or my filament is too moist? The under extrusion happens consistently in the same spots of the print for some reason. What would you say is the optimal retraction settings for standard PLA pro filament for the S1? And if it isn't my retraction, what else would cause a consistent gap on a print in the same spot even after calibrating? Any feedback would be helpful, thanks.
Hi, under-extrusion in a specific place on the bed would be really strange. What is much more likely is that the bed mesh is not perfect and the nozzle is getting too close or too far in that area. Unfortunately there have been reports of some S1 Pros having some kind of issue with the bed mesh but i'd not heard anything about the S1. My advice would be to try the tramming and auto leveling process again and make sure that you get the bed as well trammed as you can manually before auto leveling. This is the method I use th-cam.com/video/zKpNxqWie_8/w-d-xo.html
I want to buy this or the Sidewinder X2 from Artillery... wich do you think is better? It will be for personal Use and my first 3d Printer! Thanks! Greetings from Argentina!
Hi, I would say that I like them both but slightly prefer almost everything about the S1 Pro. The one thing that is better on the X2 is the build volume. If you want to print bigger things buy the X2 or possibly the Ender 3 S1 Plus. If you don't need the larger build size then possibly go for the S1 Pro.
Dose the lazer engraver work with the s1-pro without firmware update.was told it only works with the s1 only.
They say it works with the Pro but I haven't got one to try yet.
Hello can I ask you something. I bought ender 3 s1 pro a week ago and everything is fine when I am printing PLA. However, yesterday I tried TPU 95A and the printer always alarmed to clean my nozzle and extruder and didnt let me print amything with TPU (although TPU was coming straight from the hotend just like the PLA) is there anything you can suggest. I am using creality slicer and when ı used TPU ı used the tpu profile with 15m/s writing speed with retraction off but as I said it didnt enable printing becayse of the nozzle cleaning error.
I haven't seen a nozzle cleaning error. The most likely error is a temperature error as you are trying to heat the nozzle to higher temperatures with TPU. For this i would suggest a PID tune but the 'nozzle cleaning' confuses me honestly. The S1 Pro has no sensor to detect a nozzle needing to be cleaned🤔
Hello. Could anyone please tell how we do the pid tunning specifically on the original firmware of this printer? Thanks.
Hi, this method works on the S1 Pro th-cam.com/video/DG1Yvt02l1I/w-d-xo.html
What about PP?
Can you share the firmware version. I have some issues with my S1 Pro and would like to check if its firmware related.
Hi, mine is 2.0.8.13
They literally took every single one of his suggestions and fixed them all!! 😂😂😂 i just assembled my Pro and the few issues he had no longer exist.
Should I buy this 3D printer for DIY robotics projects? I mean, to create hulls, etc.?
Whether you should buy has to be your decision but I would say that this machine will be as capable as any other to do what you want. Just check that the bed size is big enough for the size of parts you want to print.
As the video states, there have been reported issues with the ABL. Some units have it, but apparently, some don't. What experiences do the watchers of this video have with their S1 Pro, does your printer's ABL work or not?
I have this problem and it's really annoying. It's my third printer so I have a little experience and I don't get it running correctly. Last try will be a Firmware Update. Pretty disappointed right now.
After a week mine got a overheating problem where it self starts heating until the safe detector beeps and the nozzle starts smoking. I’m returning my unit.
Oh wow, yes I would too if it did that.
The cable management is shocking. 😆
Im have leveling problems on my s1 pro, What firmware version do you have?
Hi, I'm still running 2.0.8.13. I plan to upgrade soon so that I'm more in line with what many of my viewers are currently running.
@@RickyImpey I had the new firmware installdone. One thing i did to help with bed leveling is installing octoprint on a raspberry pi 3 and adding the plugin bed level visualizer. That way you can se the mesh and se where the high and low spots are. I needed to add a strip of tape under the plate to get it level.
Why do I feel like all these machines will never top the architecture of the Anycubic I3 Mega. They do not impress me at all. While I like modularity in some mechanical applpications, in a 3D printer, the simpler, cleaner and solid the machine is, the better.
Wow this is kinda funny, but I basically built my own Ender 3 S1 Pro off of an Ender 3 Pro. I upgraded the motherboard to a v4.2.7 silent stepper with a BL port, swapped my bowden tube-fed extruder for the Sprite direct drive extruder with all metal hot-end, tacked on a CR-Touch, and changed the magnetic bed to glass. I spent $210ish for all of these upgrades on top of a base Ender 3 Pro, so I feel like quite the accomplished modder.
That is a great feature of the Ender 3 range. They can be modified to whatever level you want. Thanks for the comment 👍
How did you get the nut on after you put on your cable clip? There's almost no thread left for the nut to bite into.
Yes, the bolt ideally needs to be about 5mm longer but I still haven't changed mine.
Just for reference to anyone who runs into the same problem: The bolt holding the roller in place was too short for me after putting on Ricky's clip so I ended up getting an M5-0.8x45mm button head socket cap bolt and it worked great.
@@stephenrbrough Thanks for letting everyone know 👍
Do you like this better than your artillery X2 ?????
Are Geekbuying a reliable vendor for delivery and support for if anything goes wrong with the device?
I lot of people have taken advantage of the discounts with them and I've not heard of anyone having any problems at all. However, I haven't had to try out their support personally so it would be unfair for me to comment. I know that in all of my communications with them, they have been very responsive and quick to reply. I would always advise your own research into buying decisions. Please only buy from someone you are comfortable buying from.
@@RickyImpey Thanks for the info - its currently £370 with discount codes, so does sound too good to be true!
@@PaulMD Oh it's 100% legit. I wouldn't link to none reputable companies but I just haven't fully tested their return system or support myself.
@@RickyImpey Thanks for help, ordered on Tuesday and it's just turned up!
@@PaulMD Exciting!! Hope you like it as much as I do.
So 415 GBP for a v-weels bed flinger, with setup issues out of the box (bed wheels) a completely wrong wire harness . What make it exactly "pro"? Just the direct drive and spring steel PEI?
Cheap for cheap I would go for the Kingroon kp5s. For half the money you get linear rails all round.
The only reason I wouldn't recommend this to a beginner or someone who doesn't have one interested in one, is that you lose the experience of learning of each of the components through kit building and upgrading, but it isn't quite to the level of someone who isn't committed to printing to be able to print without hassle
I see your point. I think that, one day, there will come a time when someone is able to enjoy the hobby of 3d printing without having to be an expert on how 3d printers work. We are all used to machines that need a lot of understanding and maintenance so learning all about them is essential. The S1 Pro shows we are heading in the right direction but yes, you still need to learn all the things eventually.
How to do auto power off
There is no way to automatically turn the power off on a standard machine. You can use something like a Raspberry pi and Octoprint to control a mains relay though.
@@RickyImpey Thanks for your reply
I can not seem to dial mine in. I'm new to printing and I just can't seem to get the prints right
What specific problems are you having?
@@RickyImpey I am getting terrible droop during even the slightest over hang and I am having a harder time getting the prints to stick. I noticed I am getting a popping sound from my filament and stringing seems to come and go out of nowhere during prints... Just a lot of inconsistency. I am trying a new Ruby nozzle out today to try and see if that helps
@@jaydindotti5611 Have you tried drying your filament to reduce the stringing? It sounds like you have moisture in your filament if you are getting popping sounds. Do you know that your part cooling fan is running correctly? If it's not then that could cause drooping. Have you tried a Benchy to see how it performs?
@@RickyImpey I have not. I have printed various other things. I have worked on leveling, temps, speeds and supports and have dialing in the printer for 4 days. I will try a benchy next but idk how to read what I need to fix onces I see the mistakes. I do believe the fans are working but idk how well
@@jaydindotti5611 no problem, check in your slicer that the cooling fan is set to 100% speed for PLA. Also, check out this video for an easy way to see if drying your filament helps th-cam.com/video/WC3jvuq-uq8/w-d-xo.html