The Fastest Printer I've Seen - Creality CR-10 SE Review
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ธ.ค. 2023
- This is my full review of the Creality CR-10 SE. Extremely fast 600 mm/s print speeds, Klipper with input shaping, two types of bed sensors for fully automated bed leveling and nozzle offset, and much, much more. Creality, I am impressed.
Thank you SainSmart for providing the CR-10 SE for review.
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Print Details (settings, filament used, links to models, etc):
Captain America Bust (0.1 mm): www.3dprintlog.com/prints/226977
Captain America Bust (0.3 mm): www.3dprintlog.com/prints/226978
1950 Spaceship Vase Mode: www.3dprintlog.com/prints/221099
Giant Lego Wreath: www.3dprintlog.com/prints/230694
3D Benchy (Small): www.3dprintlog.com/prints/216602
3D Benchy (Large): www.3dprintlog.com/prints/219349
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#Creality #3dprinting #hoffmanengineering - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
i dont understand 3d printer community. Some reviewers say that this printer is great, some say it sucks. And actually not just for this, for every printer except some highend expensive brands. i wanted to purchase one but these entirely different comments or videos confuse me like hell...
Yeah, I came to the same conclusion. I think the only way to figure it out is just to jump in. I was trying to decide between this one and the S1 Pro. I went with this one even though it was twice as expensive. Hoping my bet pays off.
That's how creality is. It's either a good one or a bad one. They don't make universally good printers, their quality control is not that good compared to others.
Sameeeee here bud!!!!
I just got the ender 3 s1 pro and I had problems after just 3 days!!!! Nothing would stick to the bed so I had to return it so maybe look into this one.@@alvinvaughn6531
Just get the Bambu labs A1. Nobody who isn’t paid off would say it’s not the best printer right now especially with the AMS lite. Or if you can afford , get the x1 carbon
Without a doubt my favourite wild camping Chanel, another awesome video blue and make sure you take bushman with you on the next one as he seems to know his stuff 😋👍🍺✌️
I have a problem for nozzle and bed. Start calibration after that start print but nozzle too low so filament not extrude please help me
I am ahving major issues with VFA on the Y axis but only when the bed is moving front to back and only on the right side of prints
I have the CR-10 SE and the latest version of Creality Print installed by it has no profile for any CR series printer?
What gives?
Is there a default profile I can install somehow?
I think yes. Maybe is different app I don't remember name
Essa impressora faz a troca de cor automático ou manual?
I have the ender 3 v3 KE which is basically the same shit which I’m not complaining about. I love it. But my next printer gonna be the Bambu labs a1 or the x1-c
Hi, wie heißt das Filament, vom Vasen Druck bei 1,47?
Having a really hard time deciding which one to buy. Is the print quality from this one to the K1 or K1c any different? I want the best quality and if the only difference is that the K1 is enclosed, then perhaps this is the better choice.
I have the Ender 3 s1 pro and from what I can tell the only difference is the cooling fan and all the wifi bluetooth access and managing which comes with the CR 10 se. If you don't mind longer print times then I would suggest the s1 pro. I love my s1 pro.
Bugün yeni bir CR-10 Smart Pro aldım ve kurdum. İlk kurduğumda Creality Cloud uygulaması üzerinden Wi-Fi'ya sorunsuz bağlandı. Ancak birkaç saat sonra cihaz açık olmasına rağmen uygulamada çevrim dışı göründüğü için cihazı kaldırıp uygulama üzerinden tekrar eklemeye çalıştım. Fakat tekrar Wi-Fi'ya bağlanmıyor. Tüm prosedürü baştan yaptım, Wi-Fi ayarlarını sıfırladım ama sonuç değişmedi.
Nice video!! But I have a question, I just got the Ender 3 s1 pro and it was printing fine for 3 days and then randomly wouldn't stick to the bed so I'm returning it and getting this one. Did you have that same problem with this printer?
I've had no adhesion issues with this printer. But you could run into that issue with any printer, if you do not take care of the bed and watch the first layer closely. Clean the bed before each print by wiping it down with isopropyl alcohol, and make sure the first layer is properly smooshed into the bed. The cr-10 SE does calibrate that first layer height, but a dirty bed will still cause issues.
Good to know! I have cleaned the bed with warm water and soap but I am probably going to buy some isopropyl alcohol and try that! Thanks for the tip! Nice video!@@HoffmanEngineering
Hi, thank you for responding to my question. I've only had the cr-10 se for 4 days now it was printing fine and now won't stick to the bed I've cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol before every print I've cleaned it with soap and warm water I've added glue and have leveled the bed a tone of times and gone through the self-test I haven't changed anything besides updating the software and tightening the belts and now I do not know what to do can you help?@@HoffmanEngineering
@@milespettingill Did you try slicing with your model on a raft? I hate the raft, but it usually works when the print won't stick.
I had a 3d printer, 5 years old! It does ringing and ghosting, this 3d printer costs around 600 dollars and does the same thing. What is the point of having it when no improvement of print quality, simply increasing the speed with too much noise and vibration. With this amount of money we should get reasonable speed with quality of print.
Hey I’ve had this printer for 3weeks now and it started having bed adhesion issues so I had to increase the bed temperature to 78 degrees Celsius just so it will stick and now it has some warping problems at the corners I’ve cleaned the bed before every print with isopropyl alcohol and now I have to add a brim did this happen to u? Do u know how to fix this?
I believe this is just part of the process. There is nothing you can do to "fix" this. What you are doing by cleaning the bed and adding a brim is perfect and some even go as far as to add elmers glue stick to the board. It is just the nature of the beast.
What do you use for a slicer since ultimaker cura doesn't have it
I mostly used Creality Print in my testing, although you could just add a custom printer in Cura or Prusa Slicer with just a couple minutes of configuration.
Question : I can see able to setup 2 filament on it. Are we able to print dual colour models with it ? Thanks for advance
Unfortunately not, this is not a dual color printer. You'd have to manually change filament if you wanted to switch colors mid print.
Its not little bit weird to do that. Thanks for answering, actually i am looking for dual colour printer, i got bambu with ams , need dual colour now 😅@HoffmanEngineering
I want to buy the printer but I don't know if it will work with normal filaments or if you only have to use the hyper speed filament
All of my tests here were with normal PLA from other brands. Some filament doesn't like the 600mm/s speeds (polymaker matte has a slightly different surface finish), but I had no problems with 300mm/s with any normal PLA.
Hello, I saw that 3D Printing turned out great for you. I have a problem, somehow the bottom layer doesn't stick well enough (maybe it's due to the settings) and that there is a gap between them.(0.2mm layer, 220degrees, 150 print speed). I have Creality CR-10 SE printer.
Can you send me the settings for the Creality Print Slicer so I can try one model to print.
Grettings from Serbia
I found filaments that don't stick on my cr10se bed stick good at about 10-20 degrees higher than recommended bed temperature
yo uso la ender 3 de creality y me a salido muy bien y le hecho mas modificaciones de lo que se imaginan por ejemplo compre la sonic para probar y vi que es el sistema klipper en una tableta de 2 generación, (la mas económicas) puse ese sistema en una tablet Samsung y me dio mejor resultado y fue por que revise el por que y fue mas memoria ram y velocidad de procesador , y otro gran detalle mi misma impresora 3d le compre la tarjeta mas nueva 4.2.7 y me llego y la pude usar como grabadora láser siempre y cuando elimine un eje y no use la tarjeta como placa madre de software, osea la misma tablet me permitió hacerlo el secreto es que están diseñadas para que trabajen solo con 3 ejes y no se puedes aumentar o disminuir pero que pasa si la engaño creyendo que los 3 motores están conectados (altura, frontal y lateral) y lo hice funcionar con un motor extra no ensamblado (altura) para que trabaje, no e logrado sacar el sello de seguridad sin romper sus leyes, lo mejor que e podido conseguir para que me den esos resultados con la impresora es el nuevo Creality Sprite Direct Drive el de todos los materiales (altas temperaturas) lo pongo a trabajar a 215grados y le aumento la velocidad con el klipper y tengo los mismos resultados el único defecto que e encontrado son los ventiladores de baja potencia hay que remplazarlos y ya tienes impresiones de 7cm por segundo a una calidad media y si vas a alta la pones a 6cm jugando con la configuración de klipper pero no siempre se va a poder hacer eso, no borren los programas viejos de controladores de moldes para la impresora por que esos te permitian jugar con esos valores y el programa de klipper esta basado para que los haga automáticamente pero debes entender 3 cosas los acabados de la impresión varían por 3 motivos muy grandes 1 calidad del filamento, humedad del ambiente en la impresión y la configuración de la impresora
Hey, just a heads up, your z layers shouldnt be so sloppy. that quality is pretty awful, and im not digging on ya, im here to say that it looks like something weird is going on with your z axis. Z Binding is what i would go with, loosen the acme nut of the z axis' on the x gantry so that they can slide around mostly freely. You still want there to be friction, but you dont want them to be super tight to where they cant move. If thats not it, im not sure where i would look next other than over extrusion, but your surfaces should be much much smoother, especially at .2. Good luck.
I had to return mine cuz the bolts on the heated bed weren't tightened enough and rounded so it wobbled on the carriage.
7:25
what a joke,
privacy policy agreement if you wanna use a 3d printer xD
mad world
Yeah, I agree. With how cloud enabled it is, I understand, but I was still taken aback when I first saw it.
Yea don't print anything sensitive, like prototypes for a workplace, that you don't want China to have.
not to sound too crazy but we all know where this stuff will lead, I wish printers were just kept totally offline, with the option for networking. but if i want to physically destroy the wifi chip it better still work lol
@@ChadCarney-hu3du you can choose to not connect to wifi and use usb for loading models. Its a choice in creality but bambulabs force you to use their internet services
Now that's a big benchy
AVOID if you're trying to get a printer to actually make some money out of it! Creality customer service is disgusting and they also refuse returns and refunds because if you get faulty prints it's definitely your fault and they don't see a problem with the printer. Trust me and go read some reviews first, don't make the same mistake.
If it has the same quality as the supposedly better K1, hard pass. Another Creality L.
I'm curious to see how the cr-10 SE holds up over time. I know the k1 had extruder issues in the first batch, I'm not sure what other issues folks are running into. I'm pretty impressed by the cr-10 SE in my few hundred hours of printing.