Some people like those, but I prefer the springs, and teaching the springs just makes sense since 99% of users have them. But, do roll with what is working for you. 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you so much for this video! I went from 8/10 prints completely failing and needing to constantly watch my printer to just being able to press “start” and walking away. I’m new to 3D printing so a lot of resources online went completely over my head, but your video is very clear and concise.
This is the exact video I wish I'd had getting into 3d printing and the kind of video I've been thinking about making myself for the past few weeks. But here it is! Sending this to anyone who wants to get into 3d printing that I know.
I've just followed these steps you told on the video in my ender 3 s1. It literally solved EVERY problem I was having with the surface of my prints! I'm so happy right now!!!!!
I'm brand new to 3D printing. I bought a refurbished ender 3 S1 Pro. I thought I received a bad unit but thanks to your video I fixed the issues it had. Thank you soooo much.
I'm glad I found this obscure channel. Thanks to you, I managed to fix the problem I had with my S1 Plus every time I activate retraction on Cura. I never thought that that little nut regulated the clamping tension of the extruder spring. thanks
Wish I found this far earlier. Best starting place for anyone trying to fix problems. One more recommendation: My Z axis were not at equal height. The bar always looked a bit diagonal. I manually turned on the side that was lower on the coupler that is attached to the screw base and it slipped over two belt positions until it was aligned with the motor on the other side. Now it is straight
Grab it and abuse it . Your a rock star as far as I'm concerned. Thank you for all your advice and experience that you share with everyone. If your ever in NYC dinner is on me . Sincerely Edmund B . Thank you.
@@3DRundown The garden state. I'm a man of my word I'm in the Bronx but I used to work in Brooklyn and I'm from Manhattan born and raised so with that said you let me know what type of cuisine you like or a restaurant you prefer and you got it . Thank you again . Sincerely Edmund Brunning
Bed warp is another major issue with these printers. Mine is really bad, but I was able to get it close to flat with foil tape. I've always had a ringing problem. Being my first 3D printer, I just thought it was normal and sanding them out was just part of the process. I'll be going over everything you mentioned now.
ALLOT of people think their bed is warped, but, in reality, it isn't. Check out my leveling and ABL video as well. Layer lines will tend to exist in some form, but, should be minor. I think you'll find improvement if you run down this video. Good luck!
After tightening all the loose components, using Oldham couplers on the lead screws, and flexible couplers sitting on thrust washers for the Z motors. That fixed 95% if the problem. I never thought an issue could be the memory card! I was indeed using a crappy one. Problem solved! Many thanks illustrating an easily overlooked issue.
Just got an Ender 3 and after a couple of failed print , I found your channel. I didn't know there was so much to adjust, especially the part about the wheels on the vertical rail. Amazing video, I really like how you take time to explain how each adjustement affect the printer. Well explained and easy to understand for a beginner. You got a new follower ! Thanks
Thank you. Clear, crisp, concise. Solid, followable style. I wasn't having issues, but you certainly directed me to some wobbly fasteners I'd never paid attention to.
@@3DRundown For the autodidact (as I imagine many of us are), it's so hard to gradually learn actual mechanical setup and overcome that innate hesitance to touch anything. Always wondered why so many spanners were included. 😬 Certainly underlines that Creality really should be producing proper manuals for their machines. Sigh. Cheers again, anyway.
Touch everything. Break everything. Fix everything! Thats how you get from lost, to found, with this kinda stuff. :) Very pleased to be able to help you get into things. :)
I can add to 8:00 that something that is also overlooked is that one of the two z axis mig be higher or lower then the other, this will also make one of the two sidewheel have different amount of traction. I had to losen the belt at the top, then manually turn one of the z bars, just a little bit, and then it was in level. I did this by moving the printer head to the max, manually
Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a TH-cam Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM
When I did my initial setup, I didn’t do half these things. After 3 months of printing and getting pretty good prints but uneven layers I did all of this and the quality is like night and day. Thanks for the brief but precise explanation and getting my prints to a higher level.
This is it. This is the video. Very well explained helped a lot and the prints improved massively. On the topic of the print speeds tho: isnt the speed setting almost irrelevant as long as the acceleration is low enough. Because inaccuracy are usually caused by massive accelearations. And for small parts or pints speeds in the tripple digits wont actually be achieved if you keep the acceleration reasonable. But for larger parts the printer can save some time on long straight lines without sacrificing quality. Obviously you need to have the flow to match the print speed
Incredible video. After a few months of great prints I noticed my S1 was producing bulging layers and I was having confusing issues with first layer/leveling. In my case all of the axis were properly tuned but the Sprite itself had come loose from the mount (all of the screws around the tensioner were extremely lose) and was wobbling freely! Very simple fix and now it’s back to perfect printing.
Just wanted to drop a "thank you"! I was having issues with my new Ender 3 S1, and was starting to get frustrated. My extruder tensioner was quite loose, and extruder assembly was loose, the brass pieces on the back were lose, and I tightened up the belts of bed a little more. After doing all that and slowing the print speed just as you suggested, its a game changer. I was having significant issues getting the first layer down without being either too smushed, not smushed enough, lack of adhesion to the bed, etc. All of those issues are now gone and my prints are coming out "perfect" (in comparison to how they were before). There's always more tuning that can be done, but at least now I'm off to the races.
You're very welcome. It does kinda never end with these things, but that's just part of the the game. You'll get used to it, and you'll get better at it, till it becomes less of a headache, and more of a routine. Stick around, and we'll suffer together. #SuperThanks
Your video has been tremendously helpful, your channel is underrated! I'm embarrased to say how long I've been running my refurbished Ender 3 S1 Pro without touching any of those loose eccentric nuts. Thank you!
Amazing video. I've been Printing and modifying my Ender 3 Pro for about 4 months now. I just got this printer refurbished and you gave me some good extra details I was not paying attention to before.
About the tensioner: I saw a video suggesting to look at the "bite marks" on the filament when you pull it out. They should not look like the filament is squished or nearly cut through, nor should they be too superficial. These marks give you a nice hint whether the extruder has enough grip. Here, you also should be able to see if the extruder gear is worn out in case lots of abrasives were printed
I loved how you said you will mention all the important parts but only briefly but still gave the most detailed check-correct method of eccentric nuts hahaha.
thank you, I'm one of those who use 3d printing to create ideas, not to do 3d printing with the desire to tinker around with the printer. My Ender 3 S1 was printing worse and worse, i now have another one (i wanted to get a bambu with AMS either way), but now i watched you video and quickly managed to bring my ender 3 s1 back into the game, it was just some tensioning i never thouzght about before! Thank you very much for this short, straight to the point, easy to follow video. One thing I noticed: in your video it is not clear, which nut you tightened for the extruder, because your hand is in front of it every time you screw ^^ but its easy to find the information.
I have done absolutely nothing that you mentioned, yet! I will check everything on my printer thanks to your detailed and clear instructions. I absolutely am a fan of your video and your insights. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and share it with us mortals. Much appreciated!
@@3DRundown I know running any small channel is ALOT of work. I just wanted to make sure you knew your hard work helped someone out a lot today. Have a great 2024 man!!
Friend, knowing that, and being told that.... is the one thing, that keeps me going, on those days where I feel I just don't have it. I appreciate you more than you know.
Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a TH-cam Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM
Great Video. You go at a pace that is really easy to follow as well as providing great information. I struggled with my new printer for a few days before finding this video. My printer is now tuned up about as well as I can get it. Keep turning out the good videos!
Thank you! Gaps between all my lines were driving me nuts, I tried tweaking: temp, z-offset, speed, leveling, retest, etc, and after seeing this video I checked the tension of the two belts and increased it (in both) and...that was it! Almost perfect first layer!
Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a TH-cam Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM
I want to thank you so much i resolved all my problems with the printer thanks to your video. I love your format and clear explanation I can see that you are a really hard worker. You are so underrated and you got a new subscriber😊 keep on going you deserve so much more!
Thank you! Just checked everything you went over aside from the slicer settings and my prints are already night and day ! Going to try your recommended slicer settings after this test print. I was most defiantly a victim of extruder wobble lol
your videos helped me a lot since this 10 months after I started this hobby and I bought the s1 because it was the best choise at the moment in our market in Argentina, then I bought another one, now I have 2 and I needed your videos for practicly every single problem, even for the glass bed. So thank you very much. It would be nice if you can post the video for the e-steps explanation, I'm using klipper right now. Cheers!
You are a Superstar. I purchased an Ender 3 S1 Plus last November and followed your well easy to follow guide very professional and non patronising like some video's, my prints have been ok, as a new venture into 3D Printing. But I have just seen this video ok its for a S1 Pro but it seems to be generic. Thank you so much almost everything you raised was loose, but without viewing your great video I wouldn't have known. Thank you Once again. Kind regards Steve UK
Pro Tip: The S1 PRO and S1 PLUS, use the same screen and firmware. ALL the S1 builds are virtually identicle. Only the PLUS is bigger. So, do learn up on all the S1 models, and it will help you out! As for not Patronising..... I'm just one of you guys! Happy to have you. 🤛🏼🤜🏼 #SuperThanks
Really one of the best videos out there on this topic. You've not only provided an explanation for why things keep going south on my prints, but also shown the ways to fix it. A question: you made it clear that both wheels on the left rail should be equally tight to each other, and that both wheels on the right should be equally tight to each other; but should all four wheels be equally tight as a group as well? Seems like they should, but I don't want to assume.
Thanks a lot, so much clearer than Creality aftersales vids. Thanks to your video, I've noticed one of my z axis wheels was turning loose and I've been able to fix that. I've also greased a little the z endless screw with unilube. I don't know if it'll be perfect (print is still in progress) but it seems to be better than before. You have a new subscriber :)
@@3DRundown the issue i was having was that my z offset would change every time i used auto home, as well as the more typical ringing issue. i actually had two causes, the z rod on one of my stepper motors was not properly secured, and the gantry that travels up and down was no longer straight (one of the wheels was barley making contact)
Awesome. These comments sure help it feel worth the time that went into this! Happy to help. Update me on anything specic that was happeneing, and what fixed it! Will be great for future visitors.
@@3DRundown I had issues with the rollers not being equally snug when adjusting the eccentric nuts on the Z. I wasn't ware you could loosen the nut you pointed out at 7:50 (th-cam.com/video/pP36ozrfRQ0/w-d-xo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE&t=469).
i just got a hardly used ender 3 s1 and have been trying to set it up, its not my first printer but it is my first with a heated bed, dual z`s and self leveling. my layer height seems ok but iv been having issues with my Z lines, printed 8 rabbits and making slight adjustments each time and still no good. just watched this video and found out i didnt check the 4 screws on the Z rods, they were very loose. just strating a new print so i will find out in 30 mins to see if this has helped lol!!! great videos, very detailed and to the point. keep up the good work!!!
Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a TH-cam Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM
I love your channel and content. Thank you for your informational, problem solving, and upgrade tutorial videos for Ender and Bambu printers. I think my favorite thing is that you are not doing the overly-enthusiastic performative personality and presentation. You always seem mildly annoyed by existence itself, and I appreciate that. You're authentic, and I am more likely to trust your opinions when you both like or dislike something.
Thanks so much. I am NOT a fan of TH-camr Nonsense... The fake reviews, the "TH-cam Face" thumbnails, the fake excitement of a 9 year old on Christmas, the 42 second animate heavy metal intro. Drives me nuts. I make chill video content for Adults, and people that don't want to get a headache, while trying to learn something. VERY nice to see somebody mention that. Happy to have you. Consider supporting my Course, my Patreon, or a SUPER THANKS, to help keep me around. :)
This is a wonderful video, and after it I began to understand the mechanics of the printer a lot more and now I feel more confident) During the adjustment of the Z-axis rollers, for a long time I could not understand where the small backlash came from, I clamped and loosened those small crossbar screws and the eccentric several times until I realized that it was the backlash of the axis itself on the screw) Also, I additionally tightened the screws on the wheel axles, because they rest against the inside of the bearing and nothing bad will happen? Additionally, I want to add about checking the parallelism of Z beams. I had a discrepancy of 0.5 mm at the top and bottom of the beams. Loosening the window at the bottom of the printer did not help, the frame did not move in that place, and I just tightened the two bolts a little tighter next to each other, on the side. This was enough for my 0.5 mm, and there was even a margin for a stronger adjustment. And again about Z. Lifting the axle to the very top, I found that the train was stretched and did not allow it to reach the end. I moved it a little into the mount, and now the axle gets out. It is worth checking in advance before printing on the topmost point.
Thanks for super good tutorial! Clear and explanatory. Saves a lot of time for people who are trying to figure out why their printer prints crap :D I fixed all of those issues mentioned in this video.
Liked and Subscribed! this was a super easy video to follow and was able to do the same adjustments on my s1 plus. Did not even know about halve of these!
Estoy viendo tu video, me compre esta misma impresora y soy principiante, me pasó que la cama choca hacia adelante y hace tope, también hace un riido horroroso a veces en el eje x, todavía estoy pensando que es lo que puede ser, buen video para este tipo de máquina (me ayudó mas que el manual) saludos desde Argentina
Great video. In video is mentioned that link to SanDisk card will be shared in description. I cant find it . Can you share link to card and adapter for card ?
GREAT CONTENT HERE! I just received this printer for my son, for X-mas and looking forward to setting it up for him. This video will definitely help getting the initial setup perfect, but why can't I save this video on my watch later que???
This is my #2 most watched video ever, and I made it out of neccessity. Please do follow it, and also be sure to follow my Tramming and ABL video for this printer. You'll have a much better experience, getting this all out of the way up front. Also.... I have no idea!?! You should be able to...
Thanks so much. Consider adding the HIGH-FLOW kit, and a Sonic Pad to your S1 (I have a High-Flow Kit install video). OR: Get an Ender 3 V3 KE or CR10-SE. However, there are ways to help with prints times, on the slicing side. While I am not somebody that focuses on speed, perhaps a video on that topic would be helpful.
How would I go about installing and different firmware and which would I choose? I’ve seen people needing to purchase SonicPads for stuff like that and it looked quite daunting. Also, great video! I haven’t been able to find anyone else doing tweaks to the Ender 3 S1.
Sonic pad isn't so bad. Don't be afraid. It DOES require some new learning, but, it's not too bad. Firmware is pretty easy. You do it via memory card. I would use MRISCOC for the S1 (not the pro). Firmware goes on a card. Card in machine. Turn it on. That's it. You may also need to update the screen, the same way. There is a slot on the screens PCB.
Would it be a good idea if you disassemble the screws of both stepper motors and perform the calibration of the eccentric nut without the assembly of the screws? because yesterday I watched your video and started checking my 3D printer calibration. Then, I noticed that both of the cars where the X axle slides, at a certain height, one of the two wheels stops touching the aluminum profile, but at a different height, the tires do touch the entire profile. Why is that?
This is fairly common. Tiny deviation in the angle of the gantry. I have never worry about it much. If it's getting REALLY tight, or REALLY loose, higher up, you can bring it up, then, adjust the eccentrics there... Some people go crazy, squaring up everything. I can tell you, I have never bothered with that...
I very much dislike the S1. Mine has been a royal pain. That said, lot's of Sprites are out in the wild, on all sorts of machines and people are having good success with them. My S1+, prints massive masks in Silk Silver, flawlessly. I don't think it's the Sprite. I think it's poor assembly and Q/C
Maybe you can help me but I have absolutely no problems with small prints. But big prints seem to go wrong. Especially when its laying down the first layer. Its almost like its missing whole spots.and when it misses those spots it fucks up the rest of the print. Sometimes it causes my head to get jammed.
This helped a lot! Thank you! For me, I think it was the Cura settings that helped the most. I’m getting some layer tears every once in a while and I’m not sure why. The rest of the model looks great, but it’ll be a small section of the layer by the z seam. Any recommendations?
Can email me. Email is in my ABOUT Section. Can also find me on Instagram, and FB under the same handle. Of course, if you pop onto my course 3DRUNDOWN.COM, or Patreon: www.patreon.com/3DRUNDOWN, it's even easier to reach me.
dig your videos sir. i bet your hilarious in RL....for some reason ;D lol subscribed thx for giving your time to make this and sharing your knowledge, wisdom, and time with us, the....collective consciousness ;D
@@3DRundown dont tell me your an ACTUAL clown...like...as in...my buddy clowns for a living? cuz if you are ive got to give myself a trophy on picking it out thru an instructional video.... but if you mean "clown in your heart" then all i can say is takes one to know one 🤣
I also have the layer height problem. I'm fed up with this problem of this printer. Supposedly it is 96% installed, you tighten two screws and start printing. This is a big lie.
Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: Click the "💗THANKS" button, to Tip or Venmo.com/gregg-cerenzio Become a TH-cam Member, by clicking "JOIN" Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM
I've been tinkering with mine for weeks and I don't think it's a problem where it generates some ripples in the vertical, looking like resonance, making 3mm cubes at 30/35mhs, it's very noticeable and a low speed for this printer. I don't know where else to turn because I've already done countless tests, including testing with very tight, medium, loose straps, etc. The printer is very firm, I disassembled it completely, cleaned all the areas that had dirt on them, thinking it would solve the problem and I can't solve the problem.
Hi, when adjusting the gantry wheels, hogy firm should the single inside wheel be? For me they are super tight and they get tighter as I go lower and lower on the Z axis.
You should be able to turn them with 2 fingers, and should feel firm-ish. Sounds like the sides are a little miss aligned. Loosen their nuts a little. Move Z all the way up and down. Tighten them.
What print speeds are you running? I'm constantly jamming if I try to print at 60mm/s (+reductions), currently I'm finding 45mm/s and .2mm layers is the best I can do and that's for a very small print. I wish I could get as far as considering print quality, I can barely get it to complete a print. 300°C printing? Yeah right, mine can't handle 225 without major heat creep.
I always use 0.2. I print PLA at 200, give or take a few degree. Occasionally a little higher. Never over 205ish. I haven't had a single clog on either of my S1. for as long as I've owned them. Same since the new hot end. I usually print 50ish. Never over 60. Why is it jamming? Perhaps extruder Tensioner too tight? Retractions too much?
@@3DRundown Thank you for the reply. Interestingly low temps you're running, don't you get fragile layer adhesion? Interesting point on the tension, I haven't messed with it much other than when I realized the adjuster screw was there I think it was quite loose, I could pull the filament through it, and I simply tightened until I couldn't, could be problematic, I'll check that, maybe too tight. Retractions are off for this. I'm now thinking better to strip the filament to keep the motor from working/heating extra in a skipping situation, as the motor is skipping, not filament stripping. I saved a baseline profile my last good print (3 prints ago) and next derrivative print profiles failing. Thinking I only had tried 25% overlap from 15, thinking that could have been the difference. The more I think about it I can make myself believe more that too much overlap obviously would lead to over-extrusion at higher infill situations, and possibly also too much tension on drive gears contributing. I had gone quite a few months with old dialed in printer and settings, funny forgot how many dials and parts to get dialed in or if not then bad to no prints. Looking about 80% good here though.
Yes, I find when it comes to temp "more is more" isn't always true. Same with Speed. I Shipped 1300 orders last year (@greggadventure prop business), and nearly every PLA print was between 200-205. I start low, and only increase if needed. Strength is super. :)
I have the Ender s1 non pro. I got new nozzles in and they are longer. Is it possible to print a spacer for the bl touch to compensate for the longer nozzle length or will it mess thigs up?
Great video man. I am using ender 3 s1 pro and the v wheels on the sides of the Z-axis are imbalanced, meaning that when I adjust the eccentric nut 2/3 are rolling as they should be but the other is not moving at all. I tried what you said with the other two bolts which kind of worked but when the Z-axis moved up 1 wheel was hardly rolling. Any ideas?
@@3DRundown Thanks for getting back to me, I will give it a try. I uploaded a video showing the issues with my Ender S1 pro. Can you please tell if you can help me out? th-cam.com/video/Y7sQgvUEj0w/w-d-xo.html
My cr touch probe sometimes rubs my part while printing. Any thoughts?? Ender also sent me standard bed springs with my S1. Kinda pisses me off as this is a slight selling point. I’m off to grab silicone or vinyl “springs”
Your S1 shoulda come with Yellow Springs, but, it's not really a big deal, TBH. I wouldn't do the Silicon. If you want, you can swap for Yellow Springs. It's a pretty easy swap, but, you can live with the other ones. Your Touch should not touch the model, as it should be higher than your Nozzle. Something is a miss. Check the mounting bracket. Make sure there isn't a slight downward bend, or something along those lines. Also, check the mounting of your Sprite, as it's possible for it to be slightly adjusted
@@3DRundown I went to micro center and they agreed, it appeared to be a returned or refurbished unit. There were other signs of this. I have and Im currently in the final stretch of a 48 hour print but I’ve been watching it waaay more than I ever have my V2. So after this they’re going to swap it out. One problem is getting the marlin firmware back on the screen though🤦🏼♂️ they might reject the return since I immediately updated to mriscoc, since I’m familiar with his firmware. Any suggestions on flashing back the screen would be awesome. If they don’t take the return, I’ll tear it down and grab a sonic pad. Oh,…. And the CR touch probe is perfectly in line with the print nozzle I did some minor adjustments but it just doesn’t seem right.
Just put the creality firmware on the root of a card (with nothing else), and it will flash back to stock. I swap all the time. I am not fan of the S1. Mine is a royal pain in the ass. However my S1+ works great. Go figure...
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this is one of the best 'comprehensive' videos for ender 3 s1 on all the different tips in Tuning. appreciate much
One thing that I did was to replace the bed springs with those silicone spacers. Doing that actually stabilizes the print surface.
Some people like those, but I prefer the springs, and teaching the springs just makes sense since 99% of users have them. But, do roll with what is working for you. 👍🏼👍🏼
I use the blue heavy duty springs, best of both worlds
I tried that then went back to springs. Silicone spacers were not consistent for me. Plus they shrank
Thank you so much for this video! I went from 8/10 prints completely failing and needing to constantly watch my printer to just being able to press “start” and walking away. I’m new to 3D printing so a lot of resources online went completely over my head, but your video is very clear and concise.
This is the exact video I wish I'd had getting into 3d printing and the kind of video I've been thinking about making myself for the past few weeks. But here it is! Sending this to anyone who wants to get into 3d printing that I know.
Hands down the best video I've seen on the S1. This is the S1 Troubleshooting Bible!!
Thanks so much. This machine put me through the ringer!! Lol
I've just followed these steps you told on the video in my ender 3 s1. It literally solved EVERY problem I was having with the surface of my prints! I'm so happy right now!!!!!
Epic! Consider a super thanks or membership, to help me help others do the same. 🔥👏🏼
I'm brand new to 3D printing. I bought a refurbished ender 3 S1 Pro. I thought I received a bad unit but thanks to your video I fixed the issues it had. Thank you soooo much.
Epic. Love this. Happy to help! You may like my full course
You legit explain the tuning very well and very clearly, thanks man, I done it wrong watching other tutorials.
Thanks so much! Doing my best... 🤜🏼🤛🏼
I'm glad I found this obscure channel. Thanks to you, I managed to fix the problem I had with my S1 Plus every time I activate retraction on Cura. I never thought that that little nut regulated the clamping tension of the extruder spring. thanks
Hey now.... 😆😆 Good to hear you up and running. I lean on my S1+ ALLOT.
Wish I found this far earlier. Best starting place for anyone trying to fix problems. One more recommendation: My Z axis were not at equal height. The bar always looked a bit diagonal. I manually turned on the side that was lower on the coupler that is attached to the screw base and it slipped over two belt positions until it was aligned with the motor on the other side. Now it is straight
Grab it and abuse it . Your a rock star as far as I'm concerned. Thank you for all your advice and experience that you share with everyone. If your ever in NYC dinner is on me . Sincerely Edmund B . Thank you.
I'm in NJ, born in Brooklyn. I'll take you up on that Dinner sometime. Very welcome! 🔥
@@3DRundown The garden state. I'm a man of my word I'm in the Bronx but I used to work in Brooklyn and I'm from Manhattan born and raised so with that said you let me know what type of cuisine you like or a restaurant you prefer and you got it . Thank you again . Sincerely Edmund Brunning
Bed warp is another major issue with these printers. Mine is really bad, but I was able to get it close to flat with foil tape. I've always had a ringing problem. Being my first 3D printer, I just thought it was normal and sanding them out was just part of the process. I'll be going over everything you mentioned now.
ALLOT of people think their bed is warped, but, in reality, it isn't. Check out my leveling and ABL video as well. Layer lines will tend to exist in some form, but, should be minor. I think you'll find improvement if you run down this video. Good luck!
great video, clear and easily understood and you actually showed changing them rather than just talking about it. thanks!
same here, easy to understand and good video shots of what you need to do
After tightening all the loose components, using Oldham couplers on the lead screws, and flexible couplers sitting on thrust washers for the Z motors. That fixed 95% if the problem. I never thought an issue could be the memory card! I was indeed using a crappy one. Problem solved!
Many thanks illustrating an easily overlooked issue.
I wish there was a way, I could get this message in front of EVERY 3D printer owner. It's critical. Happy to get you there! 🔥🔥🔥
Just got an Ender 3 and after a couple of failed print , I found your channel. I didn't know there was so much to adjust, especially the part about the wheels on the vertical rail.
Amazing video, I really like how you take time to explain how each adjustement affect the printer. Well explained and easy to understand for a beginner. You got a new follower ! Thanks
Welcome to the party!! Thanks for being here. Consider becoming a member to help keep me afloat. 🔥🔥
Thank you.
Clear, crisp, concise. Solid, followable style.
I wasn't having issues, but you certainly directed me to some wobbly fasteners I'd never paid attention to.
Thanks so much. That was the goal! Happy to help. One day it's not an issue, the next day she prints like sh*t! Good to get ahead of it.
@@3DRundown For the autodidact (as I imagine many of us are), it's so hard to gradually learn actual mechanical setup and overcome that innate hesitance to touch anything.
Always wondered why so many spanners were included. 😬
Certainly underlines that Creality really should be producing proper manuals for their machines. Sigh.
Cheers again, anyway.
Touch everything. Break everything. Fix everything! Thats how you get from lost, to found, with this kinda stuff. :) Very pleased to be able to help you get into things. :)
I can add to 8:00 that something that is also overlooked is that one of the two z axis mig be higher or lower then the other, this will also make one of the two sidewheel have different amount of traction. I had to losen the belt at the top, then manually turn one of the z bars, just a little bit, and then it was in level. I did this by moving the printer head to the max, manually
you are the goat!!!!! thank you so much iv been struggling with this printer for over a year. It has caused me great dissapointment. THANK YOU!!!!
Love it. Very welcome. Thanks for being here. Now go make fun stuff!!
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When I did my initial setup, I didn’t do half these things. After 3 months of printing and getting pretty good prints but uneven layers I did all of this and the quality is like night and day. Thanks for the brief but precise explanation and getting my prints to a higher level.
This is it. This is the video. Very well explained helped a lot and the prints improved massively. On the topic of the print speeds tho: isnt the speed setting almost irrelevant as long as the acceleration is low enough. Because inaccuracy are usually caused by massive accelearations. And for small parts or pints speeds in the tripple digits wont actually be achieved if you keep the acceleration reasonable. But for larger parts the printer can save some time on long straight lines without sacrificing quality. Obviously you need to have the flow to match the print speed
Incredible video. After a few months of great prints I noticed my S1 was producing bulging layers and I was having confusing issues with first layer/leveling. In my case all of the axis were properly tuned but the Sprite itself had come loose from the mount (all of the screws around the tensioner were extremely lose) and was wobbling freely! Very simple fix and now it’s back to perfect printing.
Epic! Thanks so much. Happy to get you going! #SuperThanks
Just wanted to drop a "thank you"! I was having issues with my new Ender 3 S1, and was starting to get frustrated. My extruder tensioner was quite loose, and extruder assembly was loose, the brass pieces on the back were lose, and I tightened up the belts of bed a little more. After doing all that and slowing the print speed just as you suggested, its a game changer. I was having significant issues getting the first layer down without being either too smushed, not smushed enough, lack of adhesion to the bed, etc. All of those issues are now gone and my prints are coming out "perfect" (in comparison to how they were before). There's always more tuning that can be done, but at least now I'm off to the races.
You're very welcome. It does kinda never end with these things, but that's just part of the the game. You'll get used to it, and you'll get better at it, till it becomes less of a headache, and more of a routine. Stick around, and we'll suffer together. #SuperThanks
Your video has been tremendously helpful, your channel is underrated! I'm embarrased to say how long I've been running my refurbished Ender 3 S1 Pro without touching any of those loose eccentric nuts. Thank you!
Very welcome! And you're not the 1st one to do this...
Amazing video. I've been Printing and modifying my Ender 3 Pro for about 4 months now. I just got this printer refurbished and you gave me some good extra details I was not paying attention to before.
About the tensioner: I saw a video suggesting to look at the "bite marks" on the filament when you pull it out. They should not look like the filament is squished or nearly cut through, nor should they be too superficial. These marks give you a nice hint whether the extruder has enough grip. Here, you also should be able to see if the extruder gear is worn out in case lots of abrasives were printed
Yup. Don't over-do it. Over tightening is super common. I have never worn out an extruder gear. Firm but not tight
I loved how you said you will mention all the important parts but only briefly but still gave the most detailed check-correct method of eccentric nuts hahaha.
I never know WTF I'm actually doing. I just wing it all 😂😂
Thank you for the video man. I owned my s1 for almost a year and didn’t do 90 percent of the tuning till now.
Thank you so much. I'm going to tackle this tomorrow. Best greetings from Australia.
I love AU, so much so... That I literally had a conversation, 5 minutes ago, with a friend that visited there!! Greetings from NJ, USA, Mate!
thank you, I'm one of those who use 3d printing to create ideas, not to do 3d printing with the desire to tinker around with the printer. My Ender 3 S1 was printing worse and worse, i now have another one (i wanted to get a bambu with AMS either way), but now i watched you video and quickly managed to bring my ender 3 s1 back into the game, it was just some tensioning i never thouzght about before! Thank you very much for this short, straight to the point, easy to follow video. One thing I noticed: in your video it is not clear, which nut you tightened for the extruder, because your hand is in front of it every time you screw ^^ but its easy to find the information.
Some of these shots are really tough to get. I *try+ to avoid that, cause it would drive me nuts too!
I have done absolutely nothing that you mentioned, yet! I will check everything on my printer thanks to your detailed and clear instructions. I absolutely am a fan of your video and your insights. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and share it with us mortals. Much appreciated!
Very welcome. Thanks for being here. Get it done!
Bro ngl you’re really the goat. Keep grinding and making vids you genuinely make a difference in the world. Appreciate the help
Thanks so much. This channel is ALLOT of work. I struggle to handle it all. Promise to keep the Grind and do my best! Welcome to the party
@@3DRundown I know running any small channel is ALOT of work. I just wanted to make sure you knew your hard work helped someone out a lot today. Have a great 2024 man!!
Friend, knowing that, and being told that.... is the one thing, that keeps me going, on those days where I feel I just don't have it. I appreciate you more than you know.
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Finally a word on how firm the roller wheels should be! Thank you 🙏
Great Video. You go at a pace that is really easy to follow as well as providing great information. I struggled with my new printer for a few days before finding this video. My printer is now tuned up about as well as I can get it.
Keep turning out the good videos!
Thanks so much. My pace is 100% Deliberate. I'm blabber a mile a minute in real life. 😂😂 Welcome to the party!
Has anybody ever had an issue with the fan shroud touching and tearing the first few layers? love the video by the way, nice and clear explanations.
It's likely not seated right. Loosen the screws and tilt the entire hot end. Or, then fan itself, back a smidge.
Thank you! Gaps between all my lines were driving me nuts, I tried tweaking: temp, z-offset, speed, leveling, retest, etc, and after seeing this video I checked the tension of the two belts and increased it (in both) and...that was it! Almost perfect first layer!
I found a couple of these problems on my printer, just made the ajustments and I'm printing right now, thank you! I'll tell if it works!
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I want to thank you so much i resolved all my problems with the printer thanks to your video. I love your format and clear explanation I can see that you are a really hard worker. You are so underrated and you got a new subscriber😊 keep on going you deserve so much more!
wow, this means allot. Thanks so much! These videos are incredibly time consuming. Messages like this make my day! #SuperThanks
Thank you! Just checked everything you went over aside from the slicer settings and my prints are already night and day ! Going to try your recommended slicer settings after this test print. I was most defiantly a victim of extruder wobble lol
your videos helped me a lot since this 10 months after I started this hobby and I bought the s1 because it was the best choise at the moment in our market in Argentina, then I bought another one, now I have 2 and I needed your videos for practicly every single problem, even for the glass bed. So thank you very much. It would be nice if you can post the video for the e-steps explanation, I'm using klipper right now. Cheers!
You are a Superstar. I purchased an Ender 3 S1 Plus last November and followed your well easy to follow guide very professional and non patronising like some video's, my prints have been ok, as a new venture into 3D Printing. But I have just seen this video ok its for a S1 Pro but it seems to be generic.
Thank you so much almost everything you raised was loose, but without viewing your great video I wouldn't have known.
Thank you Once again.
Kind regards
Steve UK
Pro Tip: The S1 PRO and S1 PLUS, use the same screen and firmware. ALL the S1 builds are virtually identicle. Only the PLUS is bigger. So, do learn up on all the S1 models, and it will help you out! As for not Patronising..... I'm just one of you guys! Happy to have you. 🤛🏼🤜🏼 #SuperThanks
@@3DRundown your a true gentleman. Thank you 🙏
Really one of the best videos out there on this topic. You've not only provided an explanation for why things keep going south on my prints, but also shown the ways to fix it. A question: you made it clear that both wheels on the left rail should be equally tight to each other, and that both wheels on the right should be equally tight to each other; but should all four wheels be equally tight as a group as well? Seems like they should, but I don't want to assume.
The key takeaway here, is that the bed should be stable, and not wobble AT ALL. Focus on that.
@@3DRundown Sorry, I was unclear, I meant the vertical posts holding the gantry.
Thanks a lot, so much clearer than Creality aftersales vids. Thanks to your video, I've noticed one of my z axis wheels was turning loose and I've been able to fix that. I've also greased a little the z endless screw with unilube. I don't know if it'll be perfect (print is still in progress) but it seems to be better than before. You have a new subscriber :)
this resolved the issues i was having with inconsistent z axis.
very much appreciated.
Epic. For future visitors: What was the Issue, and the specific fix for you?
@@3DRundown the issue i was having was that my z offset would change every time i used auto home, as well as the more typical ringing issue.
i actually had two causes, the z rod on one of my stepper motors was not properly secured, and the gantry that travels up and down was no longer straight (one of the wheels was barley making contact)
I actually had my print bed rocking about when i first bought it. I didnt notice it until a little later on when investigating an unrelated issue.
Always check EVERYTHING when you get a machine. Only YOU build your printer.
You are a life saver for me today.
Thank you. This is just what I needed and saves me the frustration of scouring TH-cam for each and every thing I need to check on my S1.
Awesome. These comments sure help it feel worth the time that went into this! Happy to help. Update me on anything specic that was happeneing, and what fixed it! Will be great for future visitors.
@@3DRundown I had issues with the rollers not being equally snug when adjusting the eccentric nuts on the Z. I wasn't ware you could loosen the nut you pointed out at 7:50 (th-cam.com/video/pP36ozrfRQ0/w-d-xo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE&t=469).
i just got a hardly used ender 3 s1 and have been trying to set it up, its not my first printer but it is my first with a heated bed, dual z`s and self leveling. my layer height seems ok but iv been having issues with my Z lines, printed 8 rabbits and making slight adjustments each time and still no good. just watched this video and found out i didnt check the 4 screws on the Z rods, they were very loose. just strating a new print so i will find out in 30 mins to see if this has helped lol!!! great videos, very detailed and to the point. keep up the good work!!!
Great video. Now i jnow all the different parts and where all my adjustments are. Thabk you for this video.
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I love your channel and content. Thank you for your informational, problem solving, and upgrade tutorial videos for Ender and Bambu printers. I think my favorite thing is that you are not doing the overly-enthusiastic performative personality and presentation. You always seem mildly annoyed by existence itself, and I appreciate that. You're authentic, and I am more likely to trust your opinions when you both like or dislike something.
Thanks so much. I am NOT a fan of TH-camr Nonsense... The fake reviews, the "TH-cam Face" thumbnails, the fake excitement of a 9 year old on Christmas, the 42 second animate heavy metal intro. Drives me nuts. I make chill video content for Adults, and people that don't want to get a headache, while trying to learn something. VERY nice to see somebody mention that. Happy to have you. Consider supporting my Course, my Patreon, or a SUPER THANKS, to help keep me around. :)
This is a wonderful video, and after it I began to understand the mechanics of the printer a lot more and now I feel more confident)
During the adjustment of the Z-axis rollers, for a long time I could not understand where the small backlash came from, I clamped and loosened those small crossbar screws and the eccentric several times until I realized that it was the backlash of the axis itself on the screw)
Also, I additionally tightened the screws on the wheel axles, because they rest against the inside of the bearing and nothing bad will happen?
Additionally, I want to add about checking the parallelism of Z beams.
I had a discrepancy of 0.5 mm at the top and bottom of the beams.
Loosening the window at the bottom of the printer did not help, the frame did not move in that place, and I just tightened the two bolts a little tighter next to each other, on the side. This was enough for my 0.5 mm, and there was even a margin for a stronger adjustment.
And again about Z. Lifting the axle to the very top, I found that the train was stretched and did not allow it to reach the end. I moved it a little into the mount, and now the axle gets out. It is worth checking in advance before printing on the topmost point.
I just bought one of these so I'm definitely saving this video for later.
Definitly come back and go through it with me. It will pay off.
Thanks for super good tutorial! Clear and explanatory. Saves a lot of time for people who are trying to figure out why their printer prints crap :D I fixed all of those issues mentioned in this video.
Liked and Subscribed! this was a super easy video to follow and was able to do the same adjustments on my s1 plus. Did not even know about halve of these!
🔥🔥🔥 Got u
Thank you bro!
I have had my 3S1Pro for over 3 months, and man did I have to tighen a lot of stuff XD
Welcome brother!
@@3DRundown Thank you for this tutorial. Just finished tuning up a printer I bought second hand this week! ^-^
Epic. This is the way!
Estoy viendo tu video, me compre esta misma impresora y soy principiante, me pasó que la cama choca hacia adelante y hace tope, también hace un riido horroroso a veces en el eje x, todavía estoy pensando que es lo que puede ser, buen video para este tipo de máquina (me ayudó mas que el manual) saludos desde Argentina
Happy to help! Greetings from NJ, USA
thanks to your tips my ender 3 s1 running great just stopped by show support
This made my day... Thank you brother. Honored to have you around
Best instructions around
Great video. In video is mentioned that link to SanDisk card will be shared in description. I cant find it . Can you share link to card and adapter for card ?
Forgot!! Thanks for the nudge. amzn.to/3XFwQHG
This video is a life saver!!!! Thank you for this amazing tutorial because my S1 was with some bad layers and this video helped me a lot!!
Epic love this. Your welcome!! Check out the pinned comment on the video. 🙌🏼
Thanks! Great Information, and thorough explanation in the video.
I can't tell you how much "Super Thanks" helps and is appreciated. 🙌🏼🙌🏼🤜🏼🤛🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
This was very helpful. Thank you! Earned a new subscriber
Welcome friend
You are the best. I was able to get a lot of my problems solved. Thanks for your video
Thanks so much. This one took allot of work. Stay tuned for one more thing to check, tmrw!
Excellent video. Thanks very much.
GREAT CONTENT HERE! I just received this printer for my son, for X-mas and looking forward to setting it up for him. This video will definitely help getting the initial setup perfect, but why can't I save this video on my watch later que???
This is my #2 most watched video ever, and I made it out of neccessity. Please do follow it, and also be sure to follow my Tramming and ABL video for this printer. You'll have a much better experience, getting this all out of the way up front. Also.... I have no idea!?! You should be able to...
Seriously useful video for beginners like me. Subscribed!
This video has helped me resolve my issues with quality. Have you done a video on speeding up print times while retaining quality?
Thanks so much. Consider adding the HIGH-FLOW kit, and a Sonic Pad to your S1 (I have a High-Flow Kit install video). OR: Get an Ender 3 V3 KE or CR10-SE. However, there are ways to help with prints times, on the slicing side. While I am not somebody that focuses on speed, perhaps a video on that topic would be helpful.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU. I really needed this video!
Great easy-to-follow tutorial. Thank you so much.
I think we can all agree we’d rather it be a little too tight than a little too loose.
Neither is ideal. Z-Binding, Belt Binding, etc, due to over tightening is the cause of many problems.
@@3DRundown I’m having pillowing problems with my S1
How would I go about installing and different firmware and which would I choose? I’ve seen people needing to purchase SonicPads for stuff like that and it looked quite daunting.
Also, great video! I haven’t been able to find anyone else doing tweaks to the Ender 3 S1.
Sonic pad isn't so bad. Don't be afraid. It DOES require some new learning, but, it's not too bad. Firmware is pretty easy. You do it via memory card. I would use MRISCOC for the S1 (not the pro). Firmware goes on a card. Card in machine. Turn it on. That's it. You may also need to update the screen, the same way. There is a slot on the screens PCB.
Really good video thanks
Thanks for your clearly video❤
Very welcome!!
Would it be a good idea if you disassemble the screws of both stepper motors and perform the calibration of the eccentric nut without the assembly of the screws? because yesterday I watched your video and started checking my 3D printer calibration. Then, I noticed that both of the cars where the X axle slides, at a certain height, one of the two wheels stops touching the aluminum profile, but at a different height, the tires do touch the entire profile. Why is that?
This is fairly common. Tiny deviation in the angle of the gantry. I have never worry about it much. If it's getting REALLY tight, or REALLY loose, higher up, you can bring it up, then, adjust the eccentrics there... Some people go crazy, squaring up everything. I can tell you, I have never bothered with that...
Lot of good info here. Thanks very much!
Very welcome! :)
Nice video! I have heard a lot of uneaven or bad layer lines on the S1 and many people blame the Sprite extruder, in your experience is that true?
I very much dislike the S1. Mine has been a royal pain. That said, lot's of Sprites are out in the wild, on all sorts of machines and people are having good success with them. My S1+, prints massive masks in Silk Silver, flawlessly. I don't think it's the Sprite. I think it's poor assembly and Q/C
Maybe you can help me but I have absolutely no problems with small prints. But big prints seem to go wrong. Especially when its laying down the first layer. Its almost like its missing whole spots.and when it misses those spots it fucks up the rest of the print. Sometimes it causes my head to get jammed.
Feels like a Tramming and Bed Mesh issue. I would follow my S1 Tramming/ABL video, and make sure you are using "M420 S1" in your GCODE after line G28
This helped a lot! Thank you! For me, I think it was the Cura settings that helped the most. I’m getting some layer tears every once in a while and I’m not sure why. The rest of the model looks great, but it’ll be a small section of the layer by the z seam. Any recommendations?
Lemme see it
I’d appreciate that. What’s the best way to contact you? Email, social media?
Can email me. Email is in my ABOUT Section. Can also find me on Instagram, and FB under the same handle. Of course, if you pop onto my course 3DRUNDOWN.COM, or Patreon: www.patreon.com/3DRUNDOWN, it's even easier to reach me.
@@3DRundown I'll email you. Thank you!
I will do my very best to reply and help. I deal with allot. Forgive me if I'm slow.
Muchas gracias me ayudaste mucho, saludos desde Argentina
Greetings from NJ USA
Crazy!!! this video Help a lot !
Excellent video, thanks!
Welcome!
dig your videos sir.
i bet your hilarious in RL....for some reason ;D lol
subscribed
thx for giving your time to make this and sharing your knowledge, wisdom, and time with us, the....collective consciousness ;D
😂🤣 I'm a clown in real life. It's so hard for me to be serious. Lol. We'd be laughing.... allot. Also, my pleasure. Thanks for being here.
@@3DRundown dont tell me your an ACTUAL clown...like...as in...my buddy clowns for a living? cuz if you are ive got to give myself a trophy on picking it out thru an instructional video....
but if you mean "clown in your heart"
then all i can say is
takes one to know one 🤣
This video should be seen by every s1 owner. I've done all this and more, and I still haven't eliminated the inconsistent layer height🤦♂️
Crud. The S1 can be challenging.
I also have the layer height problem. I'm fed up with this problem of this printer. Supposedly it is 96% installed, you tighten two screws and start printing. This is a big lie.
Thank you for this!
Very welcome. My S1 was a royal pain in the ass.
Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support:
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This video was so helpful thank you.
Your Welcome! #SuperThanks
@@3DRundown I just have one question where is your video to calibrate an ender 3 s1?
Thanks! Any ideas if the X-axis belt is rubbing? As in it's not running centrally on the adjusted knob side...
Rubbing... Is the tensioner itself, or the gear, in some way crooked? I would remove it and reinstall it. I have not encountered this. Elabortate?
@@3DRundown I think it must be the gear angle, having the belt roll to the edge and rub. :( Thanks for your reply Gregg
thank very much, excellent explanation of everything !!!!!🤗
🙌🏼🙌🏼 🤜🏼🤛🏼
I've been tinkering with mine for weeks and I don't think it's a problem where it generates some ripples in the vertical, looking like resonance, making 3mm cubes at 30/35mhs, it's very noticeable and a low speed for this printer. I don't know where else to turn because I've already done countless tests, including testing with very tight, medium, loose straps, etc. The printer is very firm, I disassembled it completely, cleaned all the areas that had dirt on them, thinking it would solve the problem and I can't solve the problem.
Hi, when adjusting the gantry wheels, hogy firm should the single inside wheel be? For me they are super tight and they get tighter as I go lower and lower on the Z axis.
You should be able to turn them with 2 fingers, and should feel firm-ish. Sounds like the sides are a little miss aligned. Loosen their nuts a little. Move Z all the way up and down. Tighten them.
What print speeds are you running? I'm constantly jamming if I try to print at 60mm/s (+reductions), currently I'm finding 45mm/s and .2mm layers is the best I can do and that's for a very small print.
I wish I could get as far as considering print quality, I can barely get it to complete a print. 300°C printing? Yeah right, mine can't handle 225 without major heat creep.
.4mm nozzle BTW.
I always use 0.2. I print PLA at 200, give or take a few degree. Occasionally a little higher. Never over 205ish. I haven't had a single clog on either of my S1. for as long as I've owned them. Same since the new hot end. I usually print 50ish. Never over 60.
Why is it jamming? Perhaps extruder Tensioner too tight? Retractions too much?
@@3DRundown Thank you for the reply. Interestingly low temps you're running, don't you get fragile layer adhesion? Interesting point on the tension, I haven't messed with it much other than when I realized the adjuster screw was there I think it was quite loose, I could pull the filament through it, and I simply tightened until I couldn't, could be problematic, I'll check that, maybe too tight. Retractions are off for this. I'm now thinking better to strip the filament to keep the motor from working/heating extra in a skipping situation, as the motor is skipping, not filament stripping.
I saved a baseline profile my last good print (3 prints ago) and next derrivative print profiles failing. Thinking I only had tried 25% overlap from 15, thinking that could have been the difference. The more I think about it I can make myself believe more that too much overlap obviously would lead to over-extrusion at higher infill situations, and possibly also too much tension on drive gears contributing.
I had gone quite a few months with old dialed in printer and settings, funny forgot how many dials and parts to get dialed in or if not then bad to no prints. Looking about 80% good here though.
Good print was with tension as-is, but I'm definitely trying looser, thank you for the suggestions.
Yes, I find when it comes to temp "more is more" isn't always true. Same with Speed. I Shipped 1300 orders last year (@greggadventure prop business), and nearly every PLA print was between 200-205. I start low, and only increase if needed. Strength is super. :)
I have the Ender s1 non pro. I got new nozzles in and they are longer. Is it possible to print a spacer for the bl touch to compensate for the longer nozzle length or will it mess thigs up?
How to Resize, print & install a CR TOUCH or BL TOUCH SPACER for any 3D Printer, in Cura
th-cam.com/video/fhTIfO1m_yQ/w-d-xo.html
@@3DRundown I appreciate it.
Thank you for this video it helped so much
Welcome! 💯💯💯
I’m wondering I have a belt at the very top of the printer that’s loose that’s drives the up and down for the extruder is it suppose to be loose?
Which model. Sounds like a sync belt. keeps the 2 lead screws in sync. SHouldn't bee too loose....
@@3DRundown it’s an ender 3 s1 pro it’s very loose.
Thanks, all detailed
thanks Gregg. this video is great. was the print from thingi?
Thanks! Your welcome! My bad, I meant to link it: 1drv.ms/u/s!AsUNEpEglKSchshUt3Ge9_VRfXeV5w?e=zw51KN
Great video man. I am using ender 3 s1 pro and the v wheels on the sides of the Z-axis are imbalanced, meaning that when I adjust the eccentric nut 2/3 are rolling as they should be but the other is not moving at all. I tried what you said with the other two bolts which kind of worked but when the Z-axis moved up 1 wheel was hardly rolling. Any ideas?
Make sure the machine is square. Bring the Z all the way up, and adjust the rails up there a bit
@@3DRundown Thanks for getting back to me, I will give it a try. I uploaded a video showing the issues with my Ender S1 pro. Can you please tell if you can help me out?
th-cam.com/video/Y7sQgvUEj0w/w-d-xo.html
I'll try. Bare with me. Super overwhelming time for me.
@@3DRundown Hi man did you have time to review the issue I mentioned for my Ender 3 S1 pro?
Would these changes be the same on a ender 3 s1 pro? Or is there a different process?
They are identical. Only the Screen & Heat break are different.
My cr touch probe sometimes rubs my part while printing. Any thoughts??
Ender also sent me standard bed springs with my S1. Kinda pisses me off as this is a slight selling point. I’m off to grab silicone or vinyl “springs”
Your S1 shoulda come with Yellow Springs, but, it's not really a big deal, TBH. I wouldn't do the Silicon. If you want, you can swap for Yellow Springs. It's a pretty easy swap, but, you can live with the other ones.
Your Touch should not touch the model, as it should be higher than your Nozzle. Something is a miss. Check the mounting bracket. Make sure there isn't a slight downward bend, or something along those lines. Also, check the mounting of your Sprite, as it's possible for it to be slightly adjusted
@@3DRundown I went to micro center and they agreed, it appeared to be a returned or refurbished unit. There were other signs of this. I have and Im currently in the final stretch of a 48 hour print but I’ve been watching it waaay more than I ever have my V2. So after this they’re going to swap it out. One problem is getting the marlin firmware back on the screen though🤦🏼♂️ they might reject the return since I immediately updated to mriscoc, since I’m familiar with his firmware. Any suggestions on flashing back the screen would be awesome. If they don’t take the return, I’ll tear it down and grab a sonic pad. Oh,…. And the CR touch probe is perfectly in line with the print nozzle I did some minor adjustments but it just doesn’t seem right.
Just put the creality firmware on the root of a card (with nothing else), and it will flash back to stock. I swap all the time. I am not fan of the S1. Mine is a royal pain in the ass. However my S1+ works great. Go figure...
@@3DRundown This will flash the screen as well? obviously ill have to pull the cover again,.... Correct?
Thank you so much for your help BTW!!
I didn't flash my screen. If you did, you may need too..
Thanks a lot👍
Thank you!
Epic. Thank you. These help SO much! 🙌🏼🙌🏼🫶🏼🔥