Looking forward to living in my dream house! Thank you, Ryan's, for not only the initial support with your special but ongoing support through my build! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxe81Bz076USDt6sYU1rDcNa2LwCIKADgB Experience has been amazing so far! Made the process easy.
One caution about installing snow guards. For steeper pitched roofs with a 'slippery' roof system, such as metal, many codes allow for a reduced structural design load for the roof framing, since it is expected that snow will be permitted to slide off the roof. Installing snow guards on such a roof can lead to structural failures during significant snowfall events. Consult a local structural engineer if you think your building falls into this sort of situation, and they can provide necessary guidance to protect your structure.
Hey Matt, I live in Tennessee. I've done about 1100 metal roofs about 400 pole barns. I use lexal on a couple hundred from maybe the year 2000 to 2005. I've gone back and worked on some and it turns yellow and gets hard and brittle. Solar seal and some of the other metal roofing sealants hold up better
Lexel is a great product made by Sashco. Sashco makes a Lexel like product for the roof called ‘Tthrough the Roof‘. Even better temperature performance and they maintain much more UV inhibitor‘s.
Northern metal roof owner here. Only annoyance I have with our roof is that the snow rail catches literally every piece of tree debris possible. Definitely something to consider if you are in a semi tree filled area.
Matt, it'd be great of you could do an updated video on high performance (R-60) roof assembly options, particularly vaulted roof assemblies...framing options, insulation options, waterproofing options, etc. I'm starting to plan my future home build and I've got a pretty good idea of how I'm going to handle the wall assembly, but I'm stuck on the vaulted roof. I do plan on using standing seam metal finish because I'll be adding solar panels, but it's the rest of the assembly that I'm not sure about. Thanks!
Great video Metal is the best. My guess is most homes will either be metal or tile in the future. Both, if installed correctly, can far outlast a shingle roof. Also insurance is beginning to require most shingle roofs over 15 years old to be replaced in high wind areas. Crazy. Couple things on the video, in my experience sharkskin SA is a death sentence to install on roofs over 6/12 because the top layer of fuzzy felt comes off and sticks to your boots turning them into skates. It also should not be used with tar because it delaminates from the petroleum. Lexel is a great sealant in some aspects, but it melts in the heat before curing. You end up with a melty puddle if used after 10 am in Florida summers. I prefer quad max sealant. When installing a standing seam metal roof, the benefit is not having exposed fasteners. So why put a pipe flashing on with exposed fasteners? Instead, use a shingle boot and a split seam method. Panel below the penetration goes on, the boot goes on top of it, z flashings around the boot, and then the panel above is installed. No exposed fasteners or 10 tubes of caulk needed. Same method for fan vents. The roofers did the same thing for the skylights that you installed on your roof as well. Not sure why they didn’t use that logic on the pipe boot. Anyways just my tips.
Yeah but I was quoted $36,000 for metal vs me doing shingles for maybe $3-4k. I’ll die before I ever get up to the metal roof cost after replacing the shingles 3 times.
@@neckofthewoods24 okay, but metal material cost is only slightly higher than shingle material cost. If you have enough knowledge to install a shingle roof, then you could also do a metal roof. Metal is more tedious but not as labor intensive in my opinion. Also, shingles are more affordable now, but there may be a hefty environmental tax on the disposal and production of petroleum products like asphalt shingles, tar paper, and roofing cement in the future while metal is highly recyclable so may not be taxed as heavily…
@@michaelyoder7329 that was me doing the metal/labor. The trim, caps, pieces, parts etc are literally 12x more than a shingle when you add it all up. Could you get dirt cheap metal?? Yes but who’d want it? I’d rather have a nice looking shingle than a cheap shed metal roof.
@@neckofthewoods24 $3-4k for shingles vs $36k for metal on the same house? #1 $36k would have to be for metal shingles as a roof covered in 4k of materials including the cheapest 3 tab in the world would not also be a house that generates a quote for a $36k standing seam roof. Also where the OP and I live in FL it is not legal to use low end shingles due to hurricanes. My inlaw's roof for a 2400 sq ft rancher 3 yrs. ago was $23k with only a few plywood sheets repalced. The lowest shingle quote I got through my GC friend last month was $14k if no wood repair on a 1900 sq ft house rancher. Could I do it cheaper myself? Yes but Im not taking a week off work just to spend it up on my roof by myself. Standing seam was quoted as $13k for materials 7 years ago and $21k last week for all non wood materials included (24 guage Galvalume 1.5 in standing seam) . My neighbor's shingled hip roof is 12 years old and insurance just told him to replace or they will drop him and we are not in south FL. I absolutely will be installing Galvalume in the next 2-3 months and doing it to Coastal standards. I seriously doubt that it will have to be replaced in the next 50 plus years. Shingles every 12 years is 4 roof jobs in the same time span. No way I'm doing it myself 4 times (id be 89 and putting on the roof)! LoL Not! Likewise I'm not spending $50k plus (over the 4 shingles installs to have shingles that absorb heat like crazy so I can pay more on air conditioning than metal. A metal roof will lower your electric bill and increase property values. I grew up on a farm in PA and there was a reason all 5 barns, 2 sheds and the house were all metal roofing and in the 30 years we lived there none needed to be replaced. The house was on the tax records since 1852. Metal roofing is the only long term solution when you factor everything in.
Good video. The fact that you are up there sweeping leaves leaves away from your skylight curbs is a reminder that you also need a cricket above anything projecting from the roof.
@@N20Joe A cricket on the roof is a small feature that functions like a mini-roof, with a ridge and two valleys. It deflects rain to both sides to prevent a pile up. They are usually found where a chimney goes through the roof.
After tons of leaks and a lot of experimenting, we also think it's better to put the screws in the ridge. It mainly allows the metal to expand contract and keeps the screws from backing out. Another massive no-no is putting screws in advantec or OSB. It's just too soft
Every thing you described in your opening sounds exactly like Northeast Wyoming. Winters routinely drop below -10, summers routinely hit 100+. We get high winds, blizzards, golf ball size hail. Basically, all the worst weather extremes are all here.
HATED doing peal and stick over my entire roof by myself when it was cold and freezing and when it was hot and sticky!!! Such a PAIN but so glad I have it!! 8 months or more fully exposed to the weather and not a single leak. Super thick tar in the middle and plastic on both sides! Even if my roof fails I know that stuff will keep on protecting. Wip 300HT.
Just saying, I wouldn't think your experience after eight months is very informative about the performance of a system that is supposed last 50 years, and might still be around in 100 years. Heck, I lived in a house with asphalt shingles for 15 years, and didn't worry that there were a couple of broken shingles. Was much more concerned about issues with the kids and the marriage.
It would pay to coordinate between the solar panel installer and the roof installer early. Rood installers have said additional standing seam roof clips would be needed to help support the solar panels. Not a lot - but a few additional.
Installed countless metal roofs. My experience with most ice and water shields is they are recommended to extend over exterior wall planes 2' into warm zone. Example: if you have a 2' eve then you need to install ice shield minimum 4'. Sense most ice shield comes 3' typically install two course for your coverage
the solar option is actually the biggest driver to me re-doing the roof with standing seam metal. I don't want to be pulling PV panels to replace shingles, and no roof penetrations makes it such a no-brainer.
Remove the screws every 20 years? No, brother, that’s not necessary. Plenty of 50 year old metal buildings with 50 year old non leaking screws. Maybe eventually but not every 20. Good stiff besides that lil tid bit.
Have as few penetrations in your roof as possible...has skylight on his roof!😂 Nice! Also, the metal roofs with screws showing are much better in wind! I watched many blow away in my neighborhood during Katrina! ❤👍😉
Great video . I disagree with a 20 year life of a gasketed screws . Yes replace "before " they wear out !!!! and .. screw on the ridge not in the valley . 99% of the water , on a roof is in the valleys . Please go look at 50 plus year old farm roofs. All the "nails" are on the ridge . yep standing seams are more $'S but worth it .
I usually recommend buttering exposed fasteners with silicone. The way, the epdm gasket isn't exposed to uv for 20+ years. Usually done on commercials roofs at interior face of parapet so no one ever sees them.
When installing a roof, it’d be a great idea to lay a reflective foil as a radiant barrier on top of the underlayment, then place the furring strips then apply the roof. The radiant barrier with the airspace created by the furring strips will reflect back 90% of the heat… that’s heat that will not radiate into your attic, keeping the home much cooler during the summer, and warmer in the winter
@@bodyzoasispersonaltraining9186 between the roof deck and the sheet metal? the foil won't go anywhere unless you open the roof again for repair/maintenace.
It would seem like a great idea sure, but then imagine what happens when you get condensation forming.. the propriety roofing underlays are all breathable membranes now boys have been for quite some time. You must use the correct underlay or you will have real issues, trust me, roofer 35 years 🤷♂️
I liked your video! Great advice. I want to add a few things for viewers. I have much experience with metal roofs. I live in Canada where we get lots of snow. I want the snow to slide off instead of adding thousands of pounds of accumulated snowload on the trusses even though they are designed to carry it, so I never use snow dams. Instead, I design homes and buildings with 3 foot overhangs so the snow slides off well beyond the edges of buildings. It's overkill and more costly but worth it. I also always design and build so entrance doors and garage doors are at gable ends to avoid any accumulation of snow and accidentally getting injured when it slides. And it does! And when wet snow piles up and freezes, it"s almost impossible to remove. Your car will be trapped in the garage till May. Which is fine if you've got a young good looking wife and who likes to shop. Hahaha
Great video. Im going ahead and doing a standing seam roof on The Farmhouse next year in Utah. S5 makes a good Avalanche Snow Rail that attaches directly to the seam. And like you stated, S5 makes attaching solar panels really easy with their standing seam mounts.
Soak those metal roofing screws in 303 aerospace protectant, let dry and the longevity of the rubber is amazing, spray 303 on the screws every few years there after and your golden
I don't follow your logic for venting below the metal. If you're worried about condensation, allowing moisture-laden air to circulate under the metal will just lead to more condensation. With the metal right on the sheathing, no air can circulate and there should be no condensation. If there is a small leak somewhere, the water will still be still be able to drain down following one of the ribs or striations.
Condensation forms due to the temperature difference between the two sides of the metal surface. Air flow allows the condensation to evaporate and prevents wicking ...my best guess.
Unless your metal is flat, you’ll have ribs which will be elevated above the decking. There will always be an opportunity for condensation between the metal and the deck. Like he said, you don’t have to elevate it with a mesh or furring strips, it just is a best-practice. You’ll get more consistent air flow with it raised, theoretically.
On radiant barriers (RBs) in hot climates: RBs are a 1-way insulating strategy. If the RB is on the underside (towards attic space), it will not slow heat from entering your attic from the shingled exterior. RBs facing the inside of the attic space will only serve to to push radiated energy back IN to your attic that would otherwise be trying to get out from the space. Someone else on this video commented on putting a reflective barrier on the decking, then air gap, then metal roofing. Ideally, the air gap is vented at the low (soffit) side & high (ridge) side, which will create a convective flow that will help pull heat out of this air gapped space, reducing the heat that enters your attic. This is the way to go if you want to minimize heat capture.
Based on what I have read by other contractors and manufacturers, you have described the optimal way to install a radiant barrier. Others have pointed out that it works both ways, regardless of how you install it. If you think about, it makes sense. The energy is penetrating (radiating) through substances until it is reflected by the radiant barrier. The substrate of the radiant barrier is simply another substance. One of the manufacturers of a radiant sheathing product advises installing the product face down in roof decking applications. In that thread, I asked why not facing up. The answer: it is too slippery to walk on! But it apparently still works great face down.
For anyone watching this video - when Matt talks about roof venting @ 7:00, his plumber made an error. Do not combine all your vent branches into one pipe before understanding the below. There's something called aggregate venting - UPC code 904.1 - look it up - you basically need to vent the same diameter of air through the roof directly from the main sewer line that matches the diameter of the building's sewer line - so if you have a 3" abs soil line, you want at least 3" of total diameter through the roof that comes directly from that main line - can be broken up, like 2 x2" pipes and 1 x1.5" pipes , which again have to go from the 3" line to the roof. Clearly if you're looking to reduce penetrations, go with just one 3" pipe through the roof - the other branch vents can connect and combine into one line prior to venting through the roof. If I bungled up the explanation, simply look up Aggregate Venting and soil lines.
ALSO if you have soffit vents and a ridge vent you should not vent your bathroom exhaust below the soffit. You should also not combine bathroom vents to the same outlet.
@@themanicmarauder Is that because the exhaust will then be drawn into the attic? I have noticed in this Florida county new homes have often had the bathroom venting into the eaves (which have that perforated vinyl material).
@@misterlyle. Yes, it might be more of an issue where cooler climates can make condensation form on the roof decking. It can cause mold growth when warm moist air is pulled through the soffit vents by the ridge vent. If you don't have soffit vents then you don't need to worry about it.
@@themanicmarauder Thanks for your reply. Air flow from the eaves to the ridge vent is the usual treatment here, but the attic is usually like an oven.
Add a high temp, self healing, synthetic self adhering, underlayment under all metal roofs. It will stay watertight even if the roof starts to leak. I tend to want the vents seperate for each plumbing stack, so we can snake down through it if we need to. And, put snow breaks above and below, all the penetrations, including skylights, and chimneys.
A few things I’ve seen here in western ny snow belt, A lot of corrugated metal roofs with exposed screws that rust after 5-10 years. Thus leaving a roof with a lot of holes. Also, homes with multiple roof sections and different pitches lend to over complicated design and problems with flashing details. Think every project through very well for a good product is the key takeaway.
I have never understood either curb or deck mount skylights design. You would think they would make the upper/leading edge more boat hull like to channel rain and debris to flow around the skylight install instead of acting like a dam requiring yearly cleaning to prevent wet debris building up and creating the perfect environment for corrosion to become a major issue resulting in an eventual corrosion hole and roof leaks.
Standing Seam solar. I am doing 24 gauge hidden, smooth also. Didn't catch the pàrt about taking them off before a storm....do you have to take them off before every big storm, even snap off no penetration, sounds prohibitive? Thanks, Tampa, FL
He was referring to damage after a storm to the roof itself having to remove the panels to fix the roof, but if you knew of say a hurricane coming then I would talk to your installer and see about making roof side connections so you could easily remove them to store them inside.
Regarding skylights: I have always been surprised that these are installed as shown on your roof - with a vertical wall facing up the roof slope. It seems a natural place for leaves to gather or water, snow, and ice to form a pool. I have a turbine vent in my highly pitched roof that has the same profile. When I have the roof redone, I intend to have a V shaped detail added to the upper edge so any water or snow coming down the slope will be deflected around the vent. If that edge has been sealed correctly, as you certainly did with your lights, there should be no problem but deflecting the flow still seems like a good idea. Thanks for your videos.
@@tnails2397 was hoping to hear suggestions on how to have those installed in northern regions. This year we are getting tons of snow here in Minnesota. It was the first year I had to use roof rake in 15 years 😀 I see all my vent pipes under snow, can’t imagine what skylight would look like
😎 We installed our white metal roof in March. Above the decking, we used 2.5 inches of rigid foam shiny side up, then purlins. The temperature is awesome in there even though we haven't put in the fiberglass insulation yet. 👍
@@living2day617 We bought the metal, trim and gutters from Mueller, we had it delivered and installed it ourselves. Our well house is covered in white metal sheeting, and it still looks great, so we don't expect we'll have any trouble with it looking dirty.
Love your videos, Matt. Been a subscriber for many years. You've provided us with so many ideas/tips as we prepare to build our forever/retirement home...
If you are worried about snow tearing off a vent pipe near the eaves, you can buy snow guards that clamp to the pipe and roof. They reinforce the pipe and actually "slice" the snow when it slides down.
Not sure what advantage coating your entire roof with peel and stick flashing has besides making money for peel stick flashing companies...? Besides that seems like solid advice.
Great video! How did you decide what angle to put the furring strips? I understand the angle helps with water running down if there is some. But most often is see them parallel the roof line. Or perpendicular. I can’t find info on diagonal.
Nice and comprehensive breakdown. Some thoughts: 1) Have you ever installed skylights diagonally? Since I've never installed one of these myself, I'm not sure how much more complicated it would be to install and seal, but seems to me that it would (to some extent) prevent the accumulation of water, snow, and leaves behind it, and the diamond shape may actually fit better in some house and roof designs. 2) Regarding heat, fire resistance, and an air gap under the metal: the air gap should also provide insulation against heat transfer that might otherwise ignite the layers under the metal, and the wire mesh spacer would act as a flame trap, to inhibit and prevent flames from traveling under the metal and up the roof.
Maybe if you don't mind having a rafter blocking part of your view. Skylights are designed to fit between the rafters then extend lengthwise to give you a decent overall size, that's why they are almost always rectangle unless you get a really small one.
Some are, but not all. Openings are framed in for extra wide skylights that interrupt rafters. Wouldn't be much trouble to frame for a diamond shaped skylight, if it was planned for far enough in advance. Might be a bit trickier if the house uses a truss system instead of basic rafters, though.
I don’t mind the exposed fasteners, wherever there’s screw heads, there’s also wood right there so I don’t have to worry about denting the metal, also gives you a little extra traction so you don’t slip and fall.
Most of us guys that do metal roofing don't use the roof boots. They just cause leaks because they make a little damn behind them. And there's way too many screw penetrations. We just cut our metal real tight and put a very thick bead of caulking that is polyurethane-based. Never lexel
Perfect timing on this video. I was literally just sketching out a plan for a one-story garage apartment using trusses and (probably) a shallow pitch standing seam roof. Agree with all your suggestions and thank you for the tip on maintaining an air space between the metal roofing and underlayment. One last thing, if you live within a few hundred feet or so of salt water (as I do in coastal Virginia) there are grades of standing seam specifically for the salt air. As a matter of fact, I believe its required to maintain the warranty. Thank you Matt!
My house on Cape Cod is a half mile from the ocean. The metal vendor would not warrant steel in that location which caused me to switch to alluminum. Same benefits, no rust.
What’s the minimum slope on your roof system, such as on the “lantern” pop up with the clerestory windows? Thinking about spec’ing a small, 1.5:12 shed roof addition in San Diego with a metal roof.
No idea what his roof is but the metal roof manufactures will tell you what the minimum slope is. The metal I saw requires sealant where panels overlap below a 3:12 slope, and I think it could go down to 1:12 that way. 1.5 is pretty minimal slope though so you might want to consider rubber EPDM roofing.
Hi Matt, where you used the foam insulation on top of the ply sheathing, how'd you go fixing the timber battens through that foam? Just into the zip board? Unfortunately we can't even get zip boards here in Australia they look like a great innovation. Enjoy the vids cheers Brendan
You can pre-mark the locations of the battens before installing the insulation Since they are uniformaly spaced (ie 16 OC) you can measure off to make sure your screws are hitting them. You can also periodically check in the attic to see if you're off. Another alternative is to install SIP roofing, and are fastened to the beams using long timber lock screws.
On your house build, why did you put down a second layer of ZIP 5/8" sheathing? Why not install the 1x4 furring directly over the foam? I've watched your house build videos and you never give a reason.
Depending upon pitch may require 2 to 3 different levels of snow ice retention system 12"up from eaves next would be 24" from eaves so 12" 36" and up to 5 ft
Great video! I live in Central Florida and looking to replace our 23 year old tile roof (76 squares- Spanish Mediterranean look) with a stone coated metal roof and keeping the same Spanish Mediterranean look. The majority of the roof has a 7/12 slope. Is a batten/counterbatten system typically used for this type of roof? What are your thoughts on roofing foil as an additional radiant barrier?
A better screw for a fastener on a screw down metal roof is a cap screw such as a Zac lifetime style screw. The screw head covers the gasket so it is not exposed to the sun. th-cam.com/video/y8h-UqEWz-s/w-d-xo.html
Hey Matt, I'm in Northern California with a 2 in 12 pitch. If I put 1x4" furring under the 24 gauge standing seam metal will it support my weight when I step between the furring strips?
I plunked down on a stone coated steel tilcor roof. It costs about 2.5x a shingle roof. I’m glad I did it now because it’s a 50 year roof. And I did it before inflation affects the costs of my next two shingle roofs which are bound to happen in the next 30 years. Pretty sure the cost of the roof is rolling into the home resale value, so all worth it
I've always wondered about putting sheets of Styrofoam in between the boards that you screw the metal roof onto. Would that be okay or cause condensation underneath that couldn't dry out or drain? It just seems like it would be a good way to keep the heat from getting into the attic. This would be for a house in the South.
I'm sorry I couldn't take this video seriously after recommending that we wrap the entire roof in peel and stick. That's adding an unnecessary cost that is ridiculously excessive for most of the world. But then you go on to say that you should prophylactically remove and replace screws. A prophylactic is a condom. I just can't accept that this content creator is doing anything other than chilling for expensive roofing solutions.
If venting the metal roof with 1x4’s, it would seem that it would create a bad chimney effect in a wildfire scenario. Heard that chimney effect on vented attics is what caused many homes to combust in recent wildfires.
Most homes have vented attics so a metal roof venting really isnt the problem. Best option is to keep grass short and any brush, trees away from the home.
Twenty years ago my roofer said with 14" SIPS, I don't need underlayment. And although I had purchased it separately, he didn't use it. At the time, I was young and dumb so I took his word for it. Luckily, AFAIK, it hasn't leaked (yet). I wonder if I should put Lexel or Quad on the screw heads.
Issue with SIPS is the top layer of OSB can rot. For SIP you need a high perm (breathable) underlayment that allows moisture to escape. Moisture from inside your home will be carried up into the SIP. if there is no venting for the moisture to escape it will condense at night (or during the winter) and rot the top OSB layer.
@@guytech7310 If everything was installed correctly and properly maintained, as you previously indicated, a good metal roof is supposed to be the last one you buy.
On metal roofs you are placing screws in the valleys not on top of the ridges...not good! Secure with screws at the top of rhe ridges...it's takes a bit more skill doing so but is much better. We tore down a 70 yr old 300 ft long chicken house that had nails placed thru the top of ridges...the structure did not have any rotting.
nice video one comment. Lexel caulk should not be used with smp or pvdf(kynar) paint per the manufacture. use a sealant designed to stick to the roof coatings with your roof jacks.
It’s not 3’ from the gutter for ice and water it’s 3 feet from where the house wall touches the truss. So if you got 4’ overhangs you need 7’ ice and water underlayment.
U love spending money that dont need spending...1 huge nono in the north is a snowdam...the whole idea is from a poor design...put your door on the end.. or simply place a small roofed entrance u obviously never had to do roof shoveling ...anyone who dont go with a steep pitch in the north just created alot of work for themselves
I mounted my solar panels to my metal roof with 200 pound magnets at every single roof connection. Works great so far through all the hurricanes & tropical storms here in Florida. Great job on the video's, keep them coming 👍
Matt, thank you, I'm gonna do steel on a modular home. Your tips are well taken pal. Thanks for all you do, keeping this old ish stick framer up to date!
Great information, thanks. I am considering replacing a shingle roof w/a standing seem metal roof on our home in the Caribbean…..hot and humid. The home is a open air, vaulted ceiling, no attic, Balinese style home. The contractor generally places the metal roof over shingles or on the decking (owners preference) with 3/4” batons, foam insulation board between the batons and the metal roof attached to the batons. Question: what type of insulation board would you recommend (Polyiso, XPS, EPS, other) and thickness of insulation (1/2”, 3/4”)? Since the home is open air, the insulating factor R value is not a major goal or critical. Our key goals are to minimize oil canning and to provide some sound suppression from heavy rain fall that occurs at times. Thanks in advance….Rob.
Low gloss paint and 24 guage or 22 guage Narrow panels and minor striations help also. Polystyrene will melt need iso. With low gloss paints it tricks the eye.
To be honest all these modern roof systems are bogus because none are made to last including these metal roofs ain't nothing like a real old-school roof
If you are doing metal roofing Do not do anything with exposed fasteners. Coming from a GC/ roofing contractor. When I do re-screw jobs on metal roofs replacing those gasketed screws I always tell the client theres only one thing I can guarantee and that is its going to leak again.
@@ridenorthwest1687 The normal hardware store fasteners are terrible but do you have any experience with the zinc head fasteners that cover the washer? I have heard they last much longer than the bog standard hardware store metal roofing screws, that in my opinion shouldn't even exist anymore.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Yes I have, there are various options out there. It seems that the full head that coveres the entire washer from UV work much better but there is still that fact that you are only making a waterproof roof through use of those little washers. We do not offer installs on any roof system that will receive exposed fasteners. If you are just replacing then do about 5 mins of google work and you'll find some quality stainless steel full headed fasteners.
Did you say 'prophylactically'? 5:17 I think you meant 'proactively'. 😁 That sheathing is WAY overkill and extremely expensive, at least here in Canada. Using plywood instead of OSB with waterproof membrane 6 ft up from the eaves is more than sufficient, unless you plan on screwing up your install? Skylights lose way too much heat in cold climates, not to mention the potential for leaks. I do really like the idea of hidden fasteners, and putting the vents as high up as possible is a great tip.
Omg I just wanted to get ideas for underlayment for my shed here in California weather, but now I see there’s so much to add!! 😅I’m gonna keep focused and just add underlayment 😜
you buy an extra one and cut it down. bonus points for checking your layout to see if the ribs interfere with other trims, etc, and make adjustments on both sides if necessary
Looking forward to living in my dream house! Thank you, Ryan's, for not only the initial support with your special but ongoing support through my build! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxe81Bz076USDt6sYU1rDcNa2LwCIKADgB Experience has been amazing so far! Made the process easy.
One caution about installing snow guards. For steeper pitched roofs with a 'slippery' roof system, such as metal, many codes allow for a reduced structural design load for the roof framing, since it is expected that snow will be permitted to slide off the roof. Installing snow guards on such a roof can lead to structural failures during significant snowfall events. Consult a local structural engineer if you think your building falls into this sort of situation, and they can provide necessary guidance to protect your structure.
Hey Matt, I live in Tennessee. I've done about 1100 metal roofs about 400 pole barns. I use lexal on a couple hundred from maybe the year 2000 to 2005. I've gone back and worked on some and it turns yellow and gets hard and brittle. Solar seal and some of the other metal roofing sealants hold up better
Have you ever looked into eternal bond tape.
Use dymonic by tremco. 50 year warrenty. Doesent dry out and stays plyable.
Have you ever used Geocel 2320?
Lexel is a great product made by Sashco. Sashco makes a Lexel like product for the roof called ‘Tthrough the Roof‘. Even better temperature performance and they maintain much more UV inhibitor‘s.
Do you still like the Solar Seal?
Northern metal roof owner here. Only annoyance I have with our roof is that the snow rail catches literally every piece of tree debris possible. Definitely something to consider if you are in a semi tree filled area.
Matt you are a national treasure! I've learned more about good practice from your videos than 5+ architecture school !! thanks and keep them coming!!
Matt, it'd be great of you could do an updated video on high performance (R-60) roof assembly options, particularly vaulted roof assemblies...framing options, insulation options, waterproofing options, etc. I'm starting to plan my future home build and I've got a pretty good idea of how I'm going to handle the wall assembly, but I'm stuck on the vaulted roof. I do plan on using standing seam metal finish because I'll be adding solar panels, but it's the rest of the assembly that I'm not sure about. Thanks!
Great video
Metal is the best. My guess is most homes will either be metal or tile in the future. Both, if installed correctly, can far outlast a shingle roof. Also insurance is beginning to require most shingle roofs over 15 years old to be replaced in high wind areas. Crazy.
Couple things on the video, in my experience sharkskin SA is a death sentence to install on roofs over 6/12 because the top layer of fuzzy felt comes off and sticks to your boots turning them into skates. It also should not be used with tar because it delaminates from the petroleum.
Lexel is a great sealant in some aspects, but it melts in the heat before curing. You end up with a melty puddle if used after 10 am in Florida summers. I prefer quad max sealant.
When installing a standing seam metal roof, the benefit is not having exposed fasteners. So why put a pipe flashing on with exposed fasteners? Instead, use a shingle boot and a split seam method. Panel below the penetration goes on, the boot goes on top of it, z flashings around the boot, and then the panel above is installed. No exposed fasteners or 10 tubes of caulk needed. Same method for fan vents. The roofers did the same thing for the skylights that you installed on your roof as well. Not sure why they didn’t use that logic on the pipe boot.
Anyways just my tips.
Yeah but I was quoted $36,000 for metal vs me doing shingles for maybe $3-4k. I’ll die before I ever get up to the metal roof cost after replacing the shingles 3 times.
@@neckofthewoods24 okay, but metal material cost is only slightly higher than shingle material cost. If you have enough knowledge to install a shingle roof, then you could also do a metal roof. Metal is more tedious but not as labor intensive in my opinion. Also, shingles are more affordable now, but there may be a hefty environmental tax on the disposal and production of petroleum products like asphalt shingles, tar paper, and roofing cement in the future while metal is highly recyclable so may not be taxed as heavily…
@@michaelyoder7329 that was me doing the metal/labor. The trim, caps, pieces, parts etc are literally 12x more than a shingle when you add it all up. Could you get dirt cheap metal?? Yes but who’d want it? I’d rather have a nice looking shingle than a cheap shed metal roof.
@@neckofthewoods24 $3-4k for shingles vs $36k for metal on the same house? #1 $36k would have to be for metal shingles as a roof covered in 4k of materials including the cheapest 3 tab in the world would not also be a house that generates a quote for a $36k standing seam roof. Also where the OP and I live in FL it is not legal to use low end shingles due to hurricanes. My inlaw's roof for a 2400 sq ft rancher 3 yrs. ago was $23k with only a few plywood sheets repalced. The lowest shingle quote I got through my GC friend last month was $14k if no wood repair on a 1900 sq ft house rancher. Could I do it cheaper myself? Yes but Im not taking a week off work just to spend it up on my roof by myself. Standing seam was quoted as $13k for materials 7 years ago and $21k last week for all non wood materials included (24 guage Galvalume 1.5 in standing seam) . My neighbor's shingled hip roof is 12 years old and insurance just told him to replace or they will drop him and we are not in south FL. I absolutely will be installing Galvalume in the next 2-3 months and doing it to Coastal standards. I seriously doubt that it will have to be replaced in the next 50 plus years. Shingles every 12 years is 4 roof jobs in the same time span. No way I'm doing it myself 4 times (id be 89 and putting on the roof)! LoL Not! Likewise I'm not spending $50k plus (over the 4 shingles installs to have shingles that absorb heat like crazy so I can pay more on air conditioning than metal. A metal roof will lower your electric bill and increase property values. I grew up on a farm in PA and there was a reason all 5 barns, 2 sheds and the house were all metal roofing and in the 30 years we lived there none needed to be replaced. The house was on the tax records since 1852. Metal roofing is the only long term solution when you factor everything in.
@@williamkorver9856 correct, metal shingles vs Atlas Pinnacle 3D with me doing it all.
Good video. The fact that you are up there sweeping leaves leaves away from your skylight curbs is a reminder that you also need a cricket above anything projecting from the roof.
Or a 2'+ deep back pan.
Cricket? Apologies for my ignorance, would you mind explaining that?
Cricket isn't always necessary
Or just cut the trees down. 😆😆😆
@@N20Joe A cricket on the roof is a small feature that functions like a mini-roof, with a ridge and two valleys. It deflects rain to both sides to prevent a pile up. They are usually found where a chimney goes through the roof.
After tons of leaks and a lot of experimenting, we also think it's better to put the screws in the ridge.
It mainly allows the metal to expand contract and keeps the screws from backing out. Another massive no-no is putting screws in advantec or OSB. It's just too soft
did anybody else giggle when he said styrated?
So Matt with a vented roof, could it be possible to run plex Tubing between those vent channels to heat water
Every thing you described in your opening sounds exactly like Northeast Wyoming.
Winters routinely drop below -10, summers routinely hit 100+. We get high winds, blizzards, golf ball size hail. Basically, all the worst weather extremes are all here.
HATED doing peal and stick over my entire roof by myself when it was cold and freezing and when it was hot and sticky!!! Such a PAIN but so glad I have it!! 8 months or more fully exposed to the weather and not a single leak. Super thick tar in the middle and plastic on both sides! Even if my roof fails I know that stuff will keep on protecting. Wip 300HT.
WIP 300 HT is great stuff. Expensive though.
@@tedw7359 tell me about it!!! Height of the pandemic and needed I think 6000+ sqft.
Just saying, I wouldn't think your experience after eight months is very informative about the performance of a system that is supposed last 50 years, and might still be around in 100 years. Heck, I lived in a house with asphalt shingles for 15 years, and didn't worry that there were a couple of broken shingles. Was much more concerned about issues with the kids and the marriage.
Thanks for covering solar panel installation on a metal roof. That was something I was concerned about. Love the show.
It would pay to coordinate between the solar panel installer and the roof installer early. Rood installers have said additional standing seam roof clips would be needed to help support the solar panels. Not a lot - but a few additional.
Yeah , we usually replace screws every ten years, but they last a lot longer, just our s.o.p. for the houses, barns, out buildings. Great show.
Installed countless metal roofs. My experience with most ice and water shields is they are recommended to extend over exterior wall planes 2' into warm zone.
Example: if you have a 2' eve then you need to install ice shield minimum 4'. Sense most ice shield comes 3' typically install two course for your coverage
yeah, that's code actually. the local code where i built last had an override requiring 6' into the warm zone.
the solar option is actually the biggest driver to me re-doing the roof with standing seam metal. I don't want to be pulling PV panels to replace shingles, and no roof penetrations makes it such a no-brainer.
Remove the screws every 20 years? No, brother, that’s not necessary. Plenty of 50 year old metal buildings with 50 year old non leaking screws. Maybe eventually but not every 20. Good stiff besides that lil tid bit.
Have as few penetrations in your roof as possible...has skylight on his roof!😂 Nice! Also, the metal roofs with screws showing are much better in wind! I watched many blow away in my neighborhood during Katrina! ❤👍😉
Great video . I disagree with a 20 year life of a gasketed screws . Yes replace "before " they wear out !!!! and .. screw on the ridge not in the valley . 99% of the water , on a roof is in the valleys . Please go look at 50 plus year old farm roofs. All the "nails" are on the ridge . yep standing seams are more $'S but worth it .
I usually recommend buttering exposed fasteners with silicone. The way, the epdm gasket isn't exposed to uv for 20+ years. Usually done on commercials roofs at interior face of parapet so no one ever sees them.
Is there an option to use silicone or other more durable gasket washers?
When installing a roof, it’d be a great idea to lay a reflective foil as a radiant barrier on top of the underlayment, then place the furring strips then apply the roof. The radiant barrier with the airspace created by the furring strips will reflect back 90% of the heat… that’s heat that will not radiate into your attic, keeping the home much cooler during the summer, and warmer in the winter
How long will reflective foil last
@@bodyzoasispersonaltraining9186 between the roof deck and the sheet metal? the foil won't go anywhere unless you open the roof again for repair/maintenace.
I suspect foil facing up in an open ventilation channel will get a layer of dust , then the reflective quality will be gone.
What happens when you nail things down? Wouldn't the nail puncture the foil and cause leaks?
It would seem like a great idea sure, but then imagine what happens when you get condensation forming.. the propriety roofing underlays are all breathable membranes now boys have been for quite some time. You must use the correct underlay or you will have real issues, trust me, roofer 35 years 🤷♂️
I liked your video! Great advice. I want to add a few things for viewers. I have much experience with metal roofs. I live in Canada where we get lots of snow. I want the snow to slide off instead of adding thousands of pounds of accumulated snowload on the trusses even though they are designed to carry it, so I never use snow dams. Instead, I design homes and buildings with 3 foot overhangs so the snow slides off well beyond the edges of buildings. It's overkill and more costly but worth it. I also always design and build so entrance doors and garage doors are at gable ends to avoid any accumulation of snow and accidentally getting injured when it slides.
And it does! And when wet snow piles up and freezes, it"s almost impossible to remove. Your car will be trapped in the garage till May. Which is fine if you've got a young good looking wife and who likes to shop. Hahaha
Is venting your roof from the soffit to the ridge important and does this help with managing condensation ?
Great video. Im going ahead and doing a standing seam roof on The Farmhouse next year in Utah. S5 makes a good Avalanche Snow Rail that attaches directly to the seam. And like you stated, S5 makes attaching solar panels really easy with their standing seam mounts.
Soak those metal roofing screws in 303 aerospace protectant, let dry and the longevity of the rubber is amazing, spray 303 on the screws every few years there after and your golden
I don't follow your logic for venting below the metal. If you're worried about condensation, allowing moisture-laden air to circulate under the metal will just lead to more condensation. With the metal right on the sheathing, no air can circulate and there should be no condensation. If there is a small leak somewhere, the water will still be still be able to drain down following one of the ribs or striations.
Condensation forms due to the temperature difference between the two sides of the metal surface. Air flow allows the condensation to evaporate and prevents wicking ...my best guess.
Unless your metal is flat, you’ll have ribs which will be elevated above the decking. There will always be an opportunity for condensation between the metal and the deck. Like he said, you don’t have to elevate it with a mesh or furring strips, it just is a best-practice. You’ll get more consistent air flow with it raised, theoretically.
It also adds forgiveness in cold climates to ice damming scenarios
Absolutely not you gotta have the same air temperature underneath the roof as it is on the outside that’s why it won’t condensate
5:19 prophylactically? 😂
On radiant barriers (RBs) in hot climates: RBs are a 1-way insulating strategy. If the RB is on the underside (towards attic space), it will not slow heat from entering your attic from the shingled exterior. RBs facing the inside of the attic space will only serve to to push radiated energy back IN to your attic that would otherwise be trying to get out from the space. Someone else on this video commented on putting a reflective barrier on the decking, then air gap, then metal roofing. Ideally, the air gap is vented at the low (soffit) side & high (ridge) side, which will create a convective flow that will help pull heat out of this air gapped space, reducing the heat that enters your attic. This is the way to go if you want to minimize heat capture.
You must have missed emissivity day in high school physics class.
@@Krunch2020 well, I don’t even remember it being taught in my high school, but I did teach it at the university level.
Based on what I have read by other contractors and manufacturers, you have described the optimal way to install a radiant barrier. Others have pointed out that it works both ways, regardless of how you install it. If you think about, it makes sense. The energy is penetrating (radiating) through substances until it is reflected by the radiant barrier. The substrate of the radiant barrier is simply another substance. One of the manufacturers of a radiant sheathing product advises installing the product face down in roof decking applications. In that thread, I asked why not facing up. The answer: it is too slippery to walk on! But it apparently still works great face down.
I've never heard the term "jack" before. We always called them boots.
Yeah, a roof jack is that bracket you use to support a temporary board during roofing on a steep roof; usually two per board.
For anyone watching this video - when Matt talks about roof venting @ 7:00, his plumber made an error. Do not combine all your vent branches into one pipe before understanding the below.
There's something called aggregate venting - UPC code 904.1 - look it up - you basically need to vent the same diameter of air through the roof directly from the main sewer line that matches the diameter of the building's sewer line - so if you have a 3" abs soil line, you want at least 3" of total diameter through the roof that comes directly from that main line - can be broken up, like 2 x2" pipes and 1 x1.5" pipes , which again have to go from the 3" line to the roof. Clearly if you're looking to reduce penetrations, go with just one 3" pipe through the roof - the other branch vents can connect and combine into one line prior to venting through the roof.
If I bungled up the explanation, simply look up Aggregate Venting and soil lines.
ALSO if you have soffit vents and a ridge vent you should not vent your bathroom exhaust below the soffit. You should also not combine bathroom vents to the same outlet.
I agree with youI agree with you.
@@themanicmarauder Is that because the exhaust will then be drawn into the attic? I have noticed in this Florida county new homes have often had the bathroom venting into the eaves (which have that perforated vinyl material).
@@misterlyle. Yes, it might be more of an issue where cooler climates can make condensation form on the roof decking. It can cause mold growth when warm moist air is pulled through the soffit vents by the ridge vent. If you don't have soffit vents then you don't need to worry about it.
@@themanicmarauder Thanks for your reply. Air flow from the eaves to the ridge vent is the usual treatment here, but the attic is usually like an oven.
Add a high temp, self healing, synthetic self adhering, underlayment under all metal roofs. It will stay watertight even if the roof starts to leak.
I tend to want the vents seperate for each plumbing stack, so we can snake down through it if we need to. And, put snow breaks above and below, all the penetrations, including skylights, and chimneys.
How did u protect the 1x4 from condensation?
A few things I’ve seen here in western ny snow belt,
A lot of corrugated metal roofs with exposed screws that rust after 5-10 years. Thus leaving a roof with a lot of holes. Also, homes with multiple roof sections and different pitches lend to over complicated design and problems with flashing details. Think every project through very well for a good product is the key takeaway.
I have never understood either curb or deck mount skylights design. You would think they would make the upper/leading edge more boat hull like to channel rain and debris to flow around the skylight install instead of acting like a dam requiring yearly cleaning to prevent wet debris building up and creating the perfect environment for corrosion to become a major issue resulting in an eventual corrosion hole and roof leaks.
Standing Seam solar. I am doing 24 gauge hidden, smooth also.
Didn't catch the pàrt about taking them off before a storm....do you have to take them off before every big storm, even snap off no penetration, sounds prohibitive?
Thanks, Tampa, FL
He was referring to damage after a storm to the roof itself having to remove the panels to fix the roof, but if you knew of say a hurricane coming then I would talk to your installer and see about making roof side connections so you could easily remove them to store them inside.
Love the video and knowledge shared. Thanks
Regarding skylights: I have always been surprised that these are installed as shown on your roof - with a vertical wall facing up the roof slope. It seems a natural place for leaves to gather or water, snow, and ice to form a pool. I have a turbine vent in my highly pitched roof that has the same profile. When I have the roof redone, I intend to have a V shaped detail added to the upper edge so any water or snow coming down the slope will be deflected around the vent. If that edge has been sealed correctly, as you certainly did with your lights, there should be no problem but deflecting the flow still seems like a good idea. Thanks for your videos.
I was just going to comment Similar.
That's all I could think of. It needs a cricket.
Yeah its called a cricket
At least he doesn't have to regularly worry about snow
@@tnails2397 was hoping to hear suggestions on how to have those installed in northern regions.
This year we are getting tons of snow here in Minnesota. It was the first year I had to use roof rake in 15 years 😀
I see all my vent pipes under snow, can’t imagine what skylight would look like
I installed my own stone coated steel roof, and it came out awesome! A lot of prep work, but a durable roof!
Where did you happen to buy the stone coat roofing shingles. Seems a lot of talk of them but no place to actually buy them.
Does it help reduce rain noise at all? any other benefits?
😎 We installed our white metal roof in March. Above the decking, we used 2.5 inches of rigid foam shiny side up, then purlins. The temperature is awesome in there even though we haven't put in the fiberglass insulation yet. 👍
May i ask where you are located?
@@ivanhannel We are in Southern Arizona. We have videos showing our roof install.
@@living2day617 We bought the metal, trim and gutters from Mueller, we had it delivered and installed it ourselves. Our well house is covered in white metal sheeting, and it still looks great, so we don't expect we'll have any trouble with it looking dirty.
installer need to take care not to scratch the panels. Paint is the protective coat. The scratch is where it will rust first.
Love your videos, Matt. Been a subscriber for many years. You've provided us with so many ideas/tips as we prepare to build our forever/retirement home...
If you are worried about snow tearing off a vent pipe near the eaves, you can buy snow guards that clamp to the pipe and roof. They reinforce the pipe and actually "slice" the snow when it slides down.
Not sure what advantage coating your entire roof with peel and stick flashing has besides making money for peel stick flashing companies...? Besides that seems like solid advice.
Great video! How did you decide what angle to put the furring strips? I understand the angle helps with water running down if there is some. But most often is see them parallel the roof line. Or perpendicular. I can’t find info on diagonal.
Nice and comprehensive breakdown.
Some thoughts:
1) Have you ever installed skylights diagonally?
Since I've never installed one of these myself, I'm not sure how much more complicated it would be to install and seal, but seems to me that it would (to some extent) prevent the accumulation of water, snow, and leaves behind it, and the diamond shape may actually fit better in some house and roof designs.
2) Regarding heat, fire resistance, and an air gap under the metal: the air gap should also provide insulation against heat transfer that might otherwise ignite the layers under the metal, and the wire mesh spacer would act as a flame trap, to inhibit and prevent flames from traveling under the metal and up the roof.
Maybe if you don't mind having a rafter blocking part of your view. Skylights are designed to fit between the rafters then extend lengthwise to give you a decent overall size, that's why they are almost always rectangle unless you get a really small one.
Sounds like something a homeowner would want lol
Some are, but not all. Openings are framed in for extra wide skylights that interrupt rafters. Wouldn't be much trouble to frame for a diamond shaped skylight, if it was planned for far enough in advance. Might be a bit trickier if the house uses a truss system instead of basic rafters, though.
I'd think round or oval would work? Less anglea for debris to get caught on.
I don’t mind the exposed fasteners, wherever there’s screw heads, there’s also wood right there so I don’t have to worry about denting the metal, also gives you a little extra traction so you don’t slip and fall.
Most of us guys that do metal roofing don't use the roof boots. They just cause leaks because they make a little damn behind them. And there's way too many screw penetrations. We just cut our metal real tight and put a very thick bead of caulking that is polyurethane-based. Never lexel
thanks for chiming in not to do it.
Perfect timing on this video. I was literally just sketching out a plan for a one-story garage apartment using trusses and (probably) a shallow pitch standing seam roof. Agree with all your suggestions and thank you for the tip on maintaining an air space between the metal roofing and underlayment. One last thing, if you live within a few hundred feet or so of salt water (as I do in coastal Virginia) there are grades of standing seam specifically for the salt air. As a matter of fact, I believe its required to maintain the warranty. Thank you Matt!
My house on Cape Cod is a half mile from the ocean. The metal vendor would not warrant steel in that location which caused me to switch to alluminum. Same benefits, no rust.
Great Video! Can you talk more about the details of how you vent the roof ?
What’s the minimum slope on your roof system, such as on the “lantern” pop up with the clerestory windows? Thinking about spec’ing a small, 1.5:12 shed roof addition in San Diego with a metal roof.
No idea what his roof is but the metal roof manufactures will tell you what the minimum slope is. The metal I saw requires sealant where panels overlap below a 3:12 slope, and I think it could go down to 1:12 that way. 1.5 is pretty minimal slope though so you might want to consider rubber EPDM roofing.
Hi Matt, where you used the foam insulation on top of the ply sheathing, how'd you go fixing the timber battens through that foam? Just into the zip board? Unfortunately we can't even get zip boards here in Australia they look like a great innovation. Enjoy the vids cheers Brendan
He put another layer of zip sheathing on top of the foam board.
You can pre-mark the locations of the battens before installing the insulation Since they are uniformaly spaced (ie 16 OC) you can measure off to make sure your screws are hitting them. You can also periodically check in the attic to see if you're off.
Another alternative is to install SIP roofing, and are fastened to the beams using long timber lock screws.
On your house build, why did you put down a second layer of ZIP 5/8" sheathing? Why not install the 1x4 furring directly over the foam? I've watched your house build videos and you never give a reason.
Looking for a "perfect" roof, with zip system, rockwool, and metal roof(Standing seam). Looking thru videos - didnt see the coverage.
Depending upon pitch may require 2 to 3 different levels of snow ice retention system 12"up from eaves next would be 24" from eaves so 12" 36" and up to 5 ft
Great video! I live in Central Florida and looking to replace our 23 year old tile roof (76 squares- Spanish Mediterranean look) with a stone coated metal roof and keeping the same Spanish Mediterranean look. The majority of the roof has a 7/12 slope. Is a batten/counterbatten system typically used for this type of roof? What are your thoughts on roofing foil as an additional radiant barrier?
A better screw for a fastener on a screw down metal roof is a cap screw such as a Zac lifetime style screw. The screw head covers the gasket so it is not exposed to the sun. th-cam.com/video/y8h-UqEWz-s/w-d-xo.html
Hey Matt, I'm in Northern California with a 2 in 12 pitch. If I put 1x4" furring under the 24 gauge standing seam metal will it support my weight when I step between the furring strips?
Why do most metal buildings, pole bars, shops, etc with metal roofs not have plywood decking? Are they just trying to save on cost?
I plunked down on a stone coated steel tilcor roof. It costs about 2.5x a shingle roof. I’m glad I did it now because it’s a 50 year roof. And I did it before inflation affects the costs of my next two shingle roofs which are bound to happen in the next 30 years. Pretty sure the cost of the roof is rolling into the home resale value, so all worth it
I've always wondered about putting sheets of Styrofoam in between the boards that you screw the metal roof onto. Would that be okay or cause condensation underneath that couldn't dry out or drain? It just seems like it would be a good way to keep the heat from getting into the attic. This would be for a house in the South.
I'm sorry I couldn't take this video seriously after recommending that we wrap the entire roof in peel and stick. That's adding an unnecessary cost that is ridiculously excessive for most of the world. But then you go on to say that you should prophylactically remove and replace screws. A prophylactic is a condom. I just can't accept that this content creator is doing anything other than chilling for expensive roofing solutions.
If venting the metal roof with 1x4’s, it would seem that it would create a bad chimney effect in a wildfire scenario. Heard that chimney effect on vented attics is what caused many homes to combust in recent wildfires.
Most homes have vented attics so a metal roof venting really isnt the problem. Best option is to keep grass short and any brush, trees away from the home.
Twenty years ago my roofer said with 14" SIPS, I don't need underlayment. And although I had purchased it separately, he didn't use it. At the time, I was young and dumb so I took his word for it. Luckily, AFAIK, it hasn't leaked (yet). I wonder if I should put Lexel or Quad on the screw heads.
Issue with SIPS is the top layer of OSB can rot. For SIP you need a high perm (breathable) underlayment that allows moisture to escape. Moisture from inside your home will be carried up into the SIP. if there is no venting for the moisture to escape it will condense at night (or during the winter) and rot the top OSB layer.
At twenty years, is it maybe time for an estimate on a new roof?
@@misterlyle. Metal roof is good for 50 years or more.
@@guytech7310 If everything was installed correctly and properly maintained, as you previously indicated, a good metal roof is supposed to be the last one you buy.
@@misterlyle. I forgot to mention: steel roof.
On metal roofs you are placing screws in the valleys not on top of the ridges...not good! Secure with screws at the top of rhe ridges...it's takes a bit more skill doing so but is much better.
We tore down a 70 yr old 300 ft long chicken house that had nails placed thru the top of ridges...the structure did not have any rotting.
Did Matt just say fart fan? 7:36
Thats what they are called in the industry.
My wife gets mad when I call it that. I keep telling her “ But that’s what it’s called”
nice video one comment. Lexel caulk should not be used with smp or pvdf(kynar) paint per the manufacture. use a sealant designed to stick to the roof coatings with your roof jacks.
It’s not 3’ from the gutter for ice and water it’s 3 feet from where the house wall touches the truss. So if you got 4’ overhangs you need 7’ ice and water underlayment.
U love spending money that dont need spending...1 huge nono in the north is a snowdam...the whole idea is from a poor design...put your door on the end.. or simply place a small roofed entrance u obviously never had to do roof shoveling ...anyone who dont go with a steep pitch in the north just created alot of work for themselves
I don't think asphalt shingles burn very well if airborne embers from a nearby fire should land on them.
I mounted my solar panels to my metal roof with 200 pound magnets at every single roof connection. Works great so far through all the hurricanes & tropical storms here in Florida. Great job on the video's, keep them coming 👍
Matt, thank you, I'm gonna do steel on a modular home. Your tips are well taken pal. Thanks for all you do, keeping this old ish stick framer up to date!
What does super bomber mean? Thank you for the video. I’m a big fan to see what wealthy people do to their homes
Mastic tape on bottom of "witch caps" then caulk Lexal is great
Osb and underlayment or zip and No underlayment, right?
In my case. I love when the snow slips from the roof. If its not i have to shovel it 4 times per winter. 20ft of snow thats how it works
Well you can put up snow guards just under door entrances to protect people. However that might be a building code violation depending on your area.
None organised territory of river ojima northern canada😂
Great information, thanks. I am considering replacing a shingle roof w/a standing seem metal roof on our home in the Caribbean…..hot and humid. The home is a open air, vaulted ceiling, no attic, Balinese style home. The contractor generally places the metal roof over shingles or on the decking (owners preference) with 3/4” batons, foam insulation board between the batons and the metal roof attached to the batons. Question: what type of insulation board would you recommend (Polyiso, XPS, EPS, other) and thickness of insulation (1/2”, 3/4”)? Since the home is open air, the insulating factor R value is not a major goal or critical. Our key goals are to minimize oil canning and to provide some sound suppression from heavy rain fall that occurs at times. Thanks in advance….Rob.
Might want to look into a “radiant barrier” between your existing roof and your steel roof.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Low gloss paint and 24 guage or 22 guage Narrow panels and minor striations help also. Polystyrene will melt need iso. With low gloss paints it tricks the eye.
I am planning on having all my vents go into a cupola or chimney
Don’t use Lexel on silicone first it doesn’t stick and secondly I have seen it react and degrade silicone boots.
How do you stop moisture buildup under the metal?
Hi I like to learn everything about to do the metal roofs how I can get the book for the introduction
Does the radiant barrier decking go over the sheathing and underlayment?
0.03 gauge is very thick, that must be aluminium right? 🤔
What is the average price comparison of conventional shingles v standing seam please?
To be honest all these modern roof systems are bogus because none are made to last including these metal roofs ain't nothing like a real old-school roof
Baseball size hail to a 24GA metal roof will 100% damage it.
Great content! Especially considering this was a sponsored video. Keep up the good work.
Why not a V-shaped piece of metal, above a skylight, to eliminate a place for water, leaves, etc. to collect?
there really should be a cricket there. i'm surprised Matt let that one go...
13:55 Striated is pronouced STRY-a-ted, not STY-rated.
The bitch part is that some metal roofs material is unavailable in canada!
Is your standing seam roof mechanically seamed
Those skyline need a bow on the top of them, to wash away the leaves.
Loved this video. I'm building my forever home this summer and I'm still undecides as to how I will do a roof system.
If you are doing metal roofing Do not do anything with exposed fasteners. Coming from a GC/ roofing contractor. When I do re-screw jobs on metal roofs replacing those gasketed screws I always tell the client theres only one thing I can guarantee and that is its going to leak again.
@@ridenorthwest1687 The normal hardware store fasteners are terrible but do you have any experience with the zinc head fasteners that cover the washer? I have heard they last much longer than the bog standard hardware store metal roofing screws, that in my opinion shouldn't even exist anymore.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Yes I have, there are various options out there. It seems that the full head that coveres the entire washer from UV work much better but there is still that fact that you are only making a waterproof roof through use of those little washers. We do not offer installs on any roof system that will receive exposed fasteners.
If you are just replacing then do about 5 mins of google work and you'll find some quality stainless steel full headed fasteners.
What about furnace vents and wood burner stacks?
Haha fart fan…never heard that one. I’ve worked at the factory making those too. We call them bath fans here.
Damn, I figured that term came "straight from the manufacturer"!
Did you say 'prophylactically'? 5:17 I think you meant 'proactively'. 😁 That sheathing is WAY overkill and extremely expensive, at least here in Canada. Using plywood instead of OSB with waterproof membrane 6 ft up from the eaves is more than sufficient, unless you plan on screwing up your install? Skylights lose way too much heat in cold climates, not to mention the potential for leaks. I do really like the idea of hidden fasteners, and putting the vents as high up as possible is a great tip.
It can also mean "medicine taken preventively" - ..but sharp observation ;)
The only good skylights are no skylights at all
Awesome content and nerdy detail Matt, i love it!
Some good information here! Thanks for the great content! -Thad
Omg I just wanted to get ideas for underlayment for my shed here in California weather, but now I see there’s so much to add!! 😅I’m gonna keep focused and just add underlayment 😜
How do you make up for widths of roofs that don't fall evenly on the panels. e.g. A 12'-3" wide roof and the panels come out to 12'?
you buy an extra one and cut it down. bonus points for checking your layout to see if the ribs interfere with other trims, etc, and make adjustments on both sides if necessary