Your coverage of your own house is my favorite series you've done yet. I'm going to be very interested in your 6 month or 1 year later update once you've moved in. What worked the way you wanted. What would you change, etc. It is looking great so far! Thanks for sharing with the rest of us!
When this project started (as a remodel) you said you’d share prices so your viewers could have real world data to go along with the building information you’d be sharing. Now that it’s a full rebuild I think it would be even more useful to see how much some of these steps cost.
I agree. Most custom home builders always quote with production grade finishes and building practices. Every detail Matt seems to do is always a custom up charge, and I'd love to know what to expect.
@@jman1121 Having worked with finances involving a few builds of the same size, that estimate is not outrageous. He paid roughly 450k for the previous house and land, that's puts his new build (using your estimate) at 300K, this is relatively high for a 2200 sqft home, but with all the architects, engineers, and upgrades this may be a good ballpark. With all of the sponsorships and connections in the industry, I believe he will keep the rebuild cost under 250K. In the end, he will be way over priced for the area, but he loves the neighborhood and the house will be spectacular.
Agreed, but not what Matt is getting his materials for because he his getting free or discounted. What would the average everyday person have to pay? I doubt we'll get an answer...he tends to steer clear of pricing unless he's doing a comparison video which I don't think he does anymore.
Joel I REALLY wish he’d share those details. I’m in the beginning stages of building my house and would love to see what I might be able to afford (I know prices may vary). No one in their right mind would see Matt’s house as “average” so of course it’s going to be on the high side. Matt is very blessed and acknowledges this often. There’s no shame in that. I hope he sees that it would be a big help to others if he shares more details, not in the spirit of boasting, but in the spirit of teaching and helping others, which he does so well.
Fun Fact: Polyisocyanurate roof insulation may have an LTTR of 5.6 / inch, but that’s a comparative number, as it gains slight efficiency as it gets thicker. At 4” you’d expect R of 22.4, but it actually tests closer to 24. Something you don’t hear about is it’s performance at cold temperatures, where at 0 degrees F that same 4” might have a tested R of 18.
thanks for clarifying the method of putting an overhang on the "down-jacket" to form the "umbrella". Using LVL material is what makes this work (my engineer doesn't like the detail, but maybe now with LVLs). I'm sure you'll cover it in the episode you mentioned that will be coming up, but I'm guessing the sub-fascia is structural in order to connect the 'outrigger' rafters at each corner. Thanks again.
I live in northern Ontario Canada and am building my own house this year, tried to get the engineer to approve 4" of exterior insulation with no luck. They said code is 2" max any more then that would cause condnsation and mold. I tried arguing with them but couldn't convince them. I guess the science just hasn't made it this far yet unfortunately or the engineer is just set in his ways. Awesome videos, really learned lots from you. Definitely going to focus alot more on the little details with my build!
Your engineer is talking rubbish. I have installed up to 12 inches of installation on roofs in the UK. Condensation is dealt with by having a vapour barrier under the insulation and waterproof membrane on top.
@@samplumbe3288 12" would be nice! Ya I just got tired of arguing with them, and they are the only ones in our area so sadly I'm settling for on 2" on the exterior and 6" bat inside.
I did this on my build in the mountains of NC. I had to go 6 inches of insulation due to my climate zone. Went with 2 layers of 3 inch panels. This type of roof insulating is superb. Highly recommend it.
Did same when I re-roofed my workshop in Charlotte and our Lake Lure house. Made a world of difference in both of those. Now planning a new workshop build & home renovation in Blowing Rock which will have 4" PolyIso on walls and 6" on roofs. After working & living with it since 2019, I'd never build/insulate any other way.
As a non-builder, I finally see how this is done. Just looking at photos or reading articles, I could never understand the full design and installation. Thanks for sharing all this information.
Is there an advantage to having the two layers of zip over something like a Zip-R or a SIP? Guess my concern is that you've essentially got two layers of waterproofing that could potentially trap moisture in your insulating layer. If we're going with the jacket analogy, I usually like to keep my insulating layers (ie: a sweatshirt) inside my weatherproofing layers (the jacket) so as to not get the insulating wet, so it seems curious to be trying to do essentially the reverse.
There is no such thing as too much insulation - the payback relative to the life of the house (and towards a green future for our kids) is amazing!! Just planning to put a new roof on my exiting roof and will use the same approach you did - thank you 😊
I’ve loved following this project and it’s coming together nicely. I have a few questions from a building perspective... 1.) Are you having any difficulty catching your rafters with your final Lag screw on your top layer of zip? 2.) Are you aiming for passive house standards? 3.) What will your total R value be on walls and ceiling?
Your #1 question is one that I have been thinking about quite a lot as well. To hit the center of an 1 1/2" wide surface over a 4 1/2" length seems tricky. I realized that Matt stated they're pulling chalk lines from the beginning to stay on rafter centers, but how does one continue to maintain that reference as layers are increased? Is the crew pulling new chalk lines as each layer in the assembly is added to keep the reference until the final ZIP sheathing is placed? @Matt Risinger or @Steven Baczek Architect, would you be able provide some workflow insight/details there?
The best to learn about building, do it for yourself that way mistakes and problems that come up. You'll know how to fix them and find the solution so when you do work for a customer you know what can and can't happen. Great Job!!! Love the new house!
Matt can you show what you did for the bottom end of the rooftop insulation? Does it come out all the way to the fascia? Did you end it at house wall and if so where would any water go if it got in? Thanks Matt! Great videos I have learned tons from them!!
Why do I like these videos so much? I'm not a builder. I live in a condominium converted from a 1920's warehouse with crazy HOA restrictions (I basically have to sacrifice my first born to even peek behind the drywall). I will never install a roof, yet this series has been so satisfying to watch. I guess Matt's informative articulate, genuine tone compounded with an educated Texan accent--that reminds me of my cousin's and uncle's--get's this Californian urbanite looking forward to the next video in this start to finish series. Thanks.
If I understand correctly there is a vapor barrier at the zip system. I’ve heard talk on the build show about interior vapor barriers in Northern climate construction. How would you stack the components of the exterior wall assembly to avoid condensation issues In those climates. Also curious about best practices when it comes to insulating ceilings/roof decks. I have only seen typical vented roof systems in my area. Just trying to get my head around any differences in design based on climate zone.
Hey Matt, I just wanted to say, it's nice to see your guys wearing fall protection. Pretty uncommon in residential construction world, especially single-family, duplexes and the like.
I really like the roof detail and rafter (if you can call it that) detail. I got hold of Sheffield metal and they got hold of a roofing contractor for me and I'm having a standing Sheffield metal roof put on all thanks to Ryan Wagner from Sheffield ,Excel metal roofing from Versailles Mo.and YOU! for showing me the way, with all the details to ask for since I'm not working with an architect. Thanks You.
Matt, are you doing a metal roof on the house? If so, why not use the furring strips above the ATLAS and below the metal vs a second layer of zip? That woulds give you the air channel and save on the cost of the 2nd zip sheathing layer. Also, in KY I have been trying to find Atlas (or other with the fiberglass vapor perm poly. but no joy) any tips on how to buy this product? Called Atlas but no joy.
Most residential metal roofs aren't structural, so they're not rated to span the empty 12.5-14.5 inches between the furring strips. For some thicker gauge metal roofs you can put down the furring strips and then a layer of skip sheathing or purlins over that, then install the roof. The ribs provide flexural strength in one plane and the skip sheathing in the other.
It’s nice to see that the USA is finally starting to catch up energy issues in building hopefully it spreads we build a better garage in the north then most houses I’ve seen in the south I’ve been a carpenter for fourty six years
This is a tremendous installation. I wished I knew about this product before I started our addition. You're doing a great job Matt of expanding the viewers horizon and knowledge.
Your videos inspire me to build our own home....and makes me disappointed living in our 100yr+ old home that screams with inefficiency. Keep up the great work.
Just out of curiosity, do you think the first layer of roof sheathing could have been just typical plywood or osb, and then lay the insulation and Zip sheathing on top to save some money or would that defeat the purpose of the raincoat layer? Very interesting build Matt!
I’m not familiar with the costs, but it does seem too layers of zip is overkill. Would be curious to see a more economical solution. A different air barrier on the lower sheathing, or a less expensive upper sheathing?
I have used polyiso foam board insulation for exterior insulation and without exception ants nested in it and made a mess, destroying the insulation & structural value. Did you consider using Rock Wool Comfort Board 110 or even 80? It would also provide a LOT more sound absorbing/blocking. Rock Wool will not shrink nor loose insulation value over time either. I think this would have been a MUCH more superior roof top insulation material that is not only pretty much fire proof but bug & rodent proof as well as specifically designed for this application.
this is a fantasy build for anyone who isn't a builder because you will never get anyone to insure all the detail needed for this to be a reality house, but it's nice seeing it done, thanks.
Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds th-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
Cool! Would've liked to see how you are insulating the inside of the house roof. Spray foam, rock wool, fiberglass ? Vapor barrier? How are you mitigating the condensation? Dehumifier only? Love the feature over the stairs, raised roof. Can the windows be remotely opened? I've seen barns and industrial buildings with this feature to pull hot air to the top and allow fresh air to come in from down low. Is it called a cupola?
Knowing matt it will be rockwool, spray foam is too risky at this point, it could ruin the house. Just a tip, if you do use spray foam use basf closed cell foam, i didnt need a mask while watching the guys spray it. I use to sell it up until i realise the company's ethics were lower than mine, plus all the nightmares of mixing chemicals unprofessionally in the back of a truck...people have been hurt by it, what a nightmare wonder product....I would use exactly what he is using up there between my studs, but since he has it already Watch he will use the fireproof rockwool
Also I dont think we use vapor barrier in the inside in the south anymore. Just outside in southern states. Thats a cold climate thing only I believe...i have however seen it in remodeling, im in Florida
No one builds like this. Watch some conventional construction videos. It doesn't take an engineer to build a roof. You might want to try using some of Matt's ideas but nothing like this video. It's overkill in the extreme.
Just take your time - it's not rocket science. And if you want to get your feet wet, I suggest you contact your local "Habitat for Humanity" group - they can always use the help and will teach you a lot in exchange.
Start off building a shed for some tools, or an office space, 10x12. You can practice basic wiring, insulation, foundation, framing, sheathing, roofing, flashing, etc. If you go much smaller than that you won't get a good feel for flashing and insulation details.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 A standard cookie cutter house gets 7/16 osb 16" O.C. and 15lbs roof felt, with 12" blow-in fiberglass in the attic and vented eaves. An upgraded roof gets 7/16 osb, 30lbs felt with spray foam to the decking underside. This house is basically getting two roofs on top with insulation sandwiched in-between. Open cell spray foam is around $1.50 per sq ft for 6" and 7/16 osb is about $9 per sheet. So roughly about $1.70 per sq ft (for just those two materials) for a really well insulated "standard" roof. That poly-ISO is about $25 per 4x8 sheet, and the zip is about $22 per sheet, so about $2.93 per sq ft for just the foam and zip materials and about the same r-value. However, when you get into the extra labor, special fasteners, sealants and tapes needed for what Matt did, it's waaaaay more. I'd rather put down 3/4 tongue and groove plywood, ice and water shield all the way and closed cell foam underneath. That'd be a bombproof roof, equally insulated, and a lot cheaper.
He has old videos about sips..I'm guessing the big difference is this is totally customizable whereas sips is less forgiving if I'm understanding them correctly
SIPS offer some really nice and similar benefits, but they don't have the overlapping seams between layers like Matt's install method shown here. This means that the seam-sealing becomes extremely crucial, and when you factor in shrinkage (which will occur after the seams have been sealed) and movement, the chances of failure can be quite high, as evidenced by the number of observed failures that you can find with some quick searching.
@@damenh85 I guess that's the point of taping the joints, but you're right. All of the SIPS I've seen here on TH-cam use solid blocks of wood to join the pieces which creates a thermal bridge.
4 ปีที่แล้ว +1
@@MandoFettOG With SIPs, you buy the thickness you want.
Matt, you need to address your viewers about when to go crazy on this and when not to. I have a customer that is dead set on doing a double roof. his house is in a shaded area and he is also planning on placing Solar panels on top. to top that off his house is built directly on a concrete pad with no crawl space, ac vents are in the concrete as well. you need to make a video that gives the ins and outs and real world applications, and you sure need to prepare them for the cost and time it will take to do this sort of thing. Right now material cost is 2-2.9% higher than it was at the start of the year, LVL's have always been premium priced and the foam board you are using is not cheap as well. Now for my questions, you have fiberglass on the foam, what is the fire resistance of that? Are you going to install a fresh air HVAC system as you have sealed the house off? And if so, what one are you going to use.
Loved this video. Was curious about the joints from roof to wall on this process. ....ALSO: Props to the guy who came up with the idea for that drone timelapse from the overhead. View. Looks really cool. I bet he was a bit disappointed with the wind drift but I think that actually looks great to give it a bit of 3D space.
Steven Baczek Architect -- would love to see something from your perspective Steve, from the architects point of view....especially for flat roofs and cold climate (snow/ice). Maybe options with Rockwool as well.
My buddy did that roof detail and the shingles curled prematurely on the south side. We had to re-roof with a 3/4" air space between the surface of the foam and the new decking, venting at the eaves and ridge. And we're in Connecticut! I hope you avoid that problem.
Matt ...math question...if the poly iso shrinks on an 8'/96" sheet at 1% would that not be .96 of an inch gap between over 8 feet. Just to make sure. Following very closely as looking to do this to my house in southern Indiana. Thankyou very much.
Why did you add the insulation on top of or as part of the roof instead of spray foam on the inside? Curious the thought process behind the decision. Great idea on how to make the whole house air tight by adding the eves later.
I've learned so much from watching your videos. This house you are building is going to be great. Thank you for posting your work and sharing your knowledge. I want to build a house like yours. Please come to SoCal.
Wow Matt, Your the first person I heard that admits openly the initial loss of Poly Iso.... But my point is 2 lb Density EPS Foam Insulation is more rigid, is the same R Value 5.76 at 70 degrees F, the R Value is very stable and you don't have to worry about water getting on it (You can even use it underground). And the Price is cheaper for the EPS foam insulation. You do great work and you are a great guy, I think once you start using the 2 lb density EPS, you will find the advantages are better than you initially thought!
@@fredochs We and many other Roofing contractors are using the EPS foam insulation under commercial low slope (flat roof) roofing single ply membranes, and 1 lb density is required, but the 2 lb density, you get better R Value and is more rigid, which I like better.
@@fllev4121 Although Poly Iso has higher flame properties, both types of foam will burn with flames present. I consider the EPS a much better product for the life of the home. It is a consideration when building to consider fire protection. But Chemical companies know, but don't publicize that the "drifting" of gases out, doesn't end in the first 2 years. But continues through out it's lifetime. They consider in the specs a lifetime to be 15 years. But in a typical lifetime of 25 years or more, there can be a loss of 50% of R value. EPS does not gas out. The R Value is constant. You can more easily order EPS with denser (more compressive strength / and higher R Value) boards than Poly Iso. From an Article: Both EPS and polyiso are combustible materials. They can be made to catch fire. The building codes require occupied spaces to be separated by a fire resistant material that will protect the foam for at least 15 minutes. A 1/2 inch thickness of drywall can provide this protection. www.wconline.com/articles/87430-the-finish-line-eps-vs-polyisocyanurate-insulation
big fan man!!! eager to see the video after this is finished and what different moves you would have made after this build now knowing what you do now. thanks for the vids!
Bro im so happy for you! You are living the dream! One day I hope to build one for myself and I definitely will be using a lot of the methods and products that I have learned from you... this video has been one of my favorites I can not wait to see more! I love this job so much, you are overkilling it! Bro one house I built I waterproofed the entire interior just like a showerpan to keep out bugs and protect the walls from water damage if ever a leak, I used a paintable membrane throught the house, I love details like this...
I've asked this before but what about a system to capture rainwater to store for irrigation use? I know the City of Austin has programs and rebates for such systems. Look up greywater.
When this house is finished, if you fart in it not only are going to be able to smell it for a week or so, but the fart will keep you warm and cozy for at least 2 days. Nice video Matt :)
@@ykciR WRONG! That's not a "system". That's uncontrolled ventilation. It brings in dust, pollen and other pollutants. An actual fresh air system brings air in and filters it before pushing it into the HVAC system.
I have been watching a lot of the Videos for a few months now. I started building a Treehouse for my kids and I cant help but make it ridiculously insulated now. (We live in Las Vegas and Need AC to do anything when its 115 degrees in summer). I figure why not practice some of these details before my retirement home build in Northern Nevada. Keep up the amazing Content. I learn a lot from you every Video! Thanks Matt!
Hey Matt, Great videos and information on your home. I'm currently remodeling our sixties home. A couple of questions, where are you venting your plumbing? Through the roof? And how should I seal my foundation wall? I'm taking the outside walls down to the studs, and the concrete blocks, I have a crawl space. Should my zip system sheathing cover my foundation concrete blocks? Thanks Matt for your videos.
Did you consider thermal conductivity of the fasteners through the insulation layer, transferring heat and cold into the framing through all of your insulation. Would it make sense to use wood strips over the foam to fasten the sheathing into. Few fasteners through wood strips many through the sheathing. Also if you are using shingles all the roofers will be perforating the foam up to an inch or so. Love your videos, keep pushing the envelope.
I'm surprised you don't tape those under seems of the insulation!!!! Luv the way you overkill everything lol... SUPER AWESOME builds!!!!!!! people should be learning from this, especially here in Canada!!!!! Dude im a regular guy but luv your vids as it allows me to have wicked conversations with my brother in law who builds 15 million plus high r valued housing!!
Loving this build for sure -- QUESTION -- with the PolyIso insulation on the roof, you mention that the fiberglass face won't/can't have mold problems if it gets wet. I should say that i have seen fiberglass sailboats get lots of mold on their interior ceilings/headliners, made of fiberglass, when left in humid conditions for a few weeks. Kind of a common issue in the sailboat community. Not sure that this facer on polyiso insulation would actually be immure to mold solely because it is fiberglass. Maybe there is some other property added to the fiberglass face that stops or inhibits mold growth??
@matt By any chance is the Zip R sheathing "officially"rated for flat roofing yet . i know you did a video while back when one of your contractor friends build a flat roof however it wasnt official
I just emailed a rep about this and they said it's not officially meant for roofing, but they've had plenty of customers do it and haven't had problems. It also doesn't void the warranty to use it on a roof.
If I understand this correctly, you are essentially building your own SiP panel on the roof: OSB > seal sheet > 4” insulation > 5/8” decking > seal sheet > steel sheet. Interesting tails on the eaves. What happens between them?
This is how I did the apartment over my garage. From bottom to top, rafters with Rockwool R30, foam flash on inside of OSB sheeting, felt paper, 2 inches roof insulation, another 2 inches of roof insulation, another sheet of OSB, felt paper again, and shingles. The overall assembly is roughly R50 with low convection and no wind penetration, and all my ductwork is in conditioned space. Very efficient.
Oblio 91 I’m guessing it is the rigidity and lack of compression. I find the mineral wool can be tricky to manage the compression when installing it. My two cents.
Id say its the compression. I use comfort board on the exterior of my builds and you have to be very carful around all windows and doors to not suck in the rain screen too much.
Definitely! There would be details to work out, both to make sure it works as far a vapor issues and for appearance. But it's definitely worth looking into.
I had a friend who replaced her conventional roof about 9 months ago. She took off all of the old asphalt shingles down to the decking. She replaced parts of the decking but not all. She laid down a layer of synthetic roofing material on top of the decking. Then put sheets of foam board that had a radiant barrier on one side facing up. She then put down furring strips running and secured to the rafters. Finally she put down a metal roof. I’m waiting to find out if she as seen a big difference in her utility bill!
Matt, I am not a professional builder but I am start a home renovation in Florida. I am looking to copy your "monopoly framing" but I have a much smaller budget. What is the cost for framing this way plus having the polyiso layer? Do you need a second layer of Zip over the iso?
Love your channel Matt, so much good information. Will you ever do a retrofit/upgrade to a smaller size home built in the 60's or 70's to current building science? Something a homeowner could handle?
I will be interested in the savings in heat and cooling once the build is done. I may have missed it but will the house need air filtering/exchanger to purify the air because it is so tightly built?
ArthurDentZaphodBeeb yes it’s is but where does the water go? The poly-iso and the underside of the top piece of Zip sheathing are sandwiched between two walther barriers so how does the water escape?
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Its still osb and osb doesn't handle water well, so I'd call it water resistant. Same as mold resistant drywall, its still drywall it will mold.
Another super job by matt, one question, why did you choose to have no venting above the foam? I did nearly the exact detail on my house except we laid our sleepers above the final layer of rigid. We screwed our sleepers all the way back to framing with long GRK's. this left us with a 1 1/2" air gap after we installed the final roof sheathing. Then I ran ridge vents etc. I believe it called a cold roof assembly. Did you have a specific reason for your detail?
As someone not educated enough yet in construction methods - When I see the thickness of foam insulation he's adding both on the roof and the exterior walls in his other video - I can't help but wonder, does this negatively impact how strong the exterior cladding attachment will be? I'm more curious for his external walls, If you are putting siding on this, is there concern during a really bad windstorm?
@@KevinSmith-qi5yn He certainly has some peculiar ideas about building a home in Austin Texas. This place could easily handle a 140° temperature swing.
@@PhotonHerald A roof is the 1st and last defense in keeping a structure intact. Especially if it is in a wet climate like east Texas where it gets so much rain. This roof is not geared for protection against the weather as much as extreme temperatures. It's way overbuilt for the climate in Austin Texas.
@@oltedders Ever consider the majority of houses in Texas are under built? For a country as technologically advanced as we are, are homes are constructed to extremely horrible, embarrassing standards
What about the effects of thermal bridging from all those steel screws? Some guy in a passive house video said as much as 30% reduction in total R value from fasteners if they go clear through the wall. The roof over the continuous air barrier is a cool idea, but how would one mitigate the fastener thermal bridging?
Shooting from the hip, 30% sounds pretty high. If you consider the area of the roof compared to the area of the screws, that 30% sounds quite high. It would be interesting to hear how that reduction in R-value was calculated. I think one could set up an experiment with these materials and then heat one side and compare temperatures.
I realize this is anecdotal, but I was very curious about this myself when I did my walls with 3" of exterior foam, with 3/4" rain screen and 6" Powerlag screws. I figured if the thermal bridging was as significant as some people speculated, it would easily show up on a thermal camera. While I could identify thermally where the screws were (with an interior to exterior delta of about 70 degrees F), the delta was substantially less pronounced than the thermal bridging evident in a standard framed 2x4 wall with drywall. At the end of the day, the small bridging from the screws far outweighs the benefit of continuous external insulation in my personal experimentation. Ultimately I elected to add a few more screws than minimally recommended because I was more concerned with rain screen sag than thermal bridging. I don't buy 30% reduction in total R-value.
It can be more than 30%. Carbon steel has a thermal resistance 800 times lower than wood, which is r2.5 per inch. Imagine each screw penetration is like exposing a section of wall 800 times bigger than itself. It doesn't negate the insulation but you do use a lot. Especially on a roof that is going to be in the hot Texas sun.
Are you available to do seminars? I ask this question not only for myself but for a group that I am a part of. If this would mean that we would have to come to you in your area, that would not be a problem. I am excited to see the advancements in technology and what that means in terms of energy savings and longevity of the structures being built.
Glad to see you are building your "dream" home at the moment. I "super insulated" a 3500 sqft. home in Florida 34 years ago, using polyiso just on the outside vertical walls, not the roof. A few years ago, with just 10-kW of PV, it was giving back to the grid a bit more electricity than it used, on an annual basis. Recently I started planning a repeat "super insulated" home, only smaller, and was glad to find several of your TH-cam videos using polyiso insulation. Now that you are using all your experience with polyiso and other updated materials on your home, it is great to follow your videos to pick up pointers on best building practices. I know that your plan is to install a metal roof, however it might not be too late to also look into the Tesla Solar Glass. www.tesla.com/solarroof/design It would be a shame if you don't make this house fully electric and solar powered, with some Li-Ion batteries to ride out any storm. You are in Texas, surrounded by oil with plenty of wind farms and complementing the environment with lots of PV should remind Big Oil (especially now) that there's more to Energy than Texas Tea, if one is into Energy. Looking forward to more videos on your house.
Hi Matt Really enjoy watching your videos have learned quite a bit. Had a thought about all the work being put in for the overhang. Did you consider hanging the final layer of the the osb out by itself meaning none of the framing that has been done. Have the tail rafter with the bottom cord already made up and install it with screws down from the top and toe screw bottom cord into rake board on the wall. Install the fascia. Would save all the framing and all the fitting of foam and still be solid
Love your show. I’m about to get started on my house and I plan to do this kind of roof instead of SIP panels. The home is a timber frame house with 1” x 10” ceiling boards visible in half the interior. How can I do lighting and electrical in the ceiling with foam on top?
Jeffrey Lawson, Standard sheathing and water proofing on roofs is around $0.80 a SqFt. For this entire system, double sheathing, foam, and double zip water proofing you’re closer to around $4 per square foot based on similar materials I found on Home Depot.
Looks like Matt is insulating for the weather of the future...its going to get really hot or really cold in our lifetime! Insulation is cheap now...wait until its 125 degrees Fahrenheit outside....Matt you are using your genius in this build! Great Job!
The slight camera movement on the top-down shots makes the house look like it's wobbling ... kinda like the whole structure is made out of jelly or rubber.
Out of curiosity, why not use foil-faced foam as the top layer of roof insulation, with 1x4 battens between that and the top layer of Zip like you did on the walls?
I'd love to see a heating/cooling cost comparison(per 100 sq foot) between this house and a more conventional home.. Seems like body heat will keep it comfortable. Are you thinking about solar as well?
I get so stoked on these videos I think other people are tired of me talking about my newfound building knowledge.
Me too budy - I can talk building science Allllllll Day
Your expertise and attention to detail is far beyond anyone i could possibly think of
I agree........
Your coverage of your own house is my favorite series you've done yet. I'm going to be very interested in your 6 month or 1 year later update once you've moved in. What worked the way you wanted. What would you change, etc. It is looking great so far! Thanks for sharing with the rest of us!
When this project started (as a remodel) you said you’d share prices so your viewers could have real world data to go along with the building information you’d be sharing. Now that it’s a full rebuild I think it would be even more useful to see how much some of these steps cost.
I agree. Most custom home builders always quote with production grade finishes and building practices. Every detail Matt seems to do is always a custom up charge, and I'd love to know what to expect.
My guess is a solid 750k, cost. I could be way wrong though.... Lol
@@jman1121 Having worked with finances involving a few builds of the same size, that estimate is not outrageous. He paid roughly 450k for the previous house and land, that's puts his new build (using your estimate) at 300K, this is relatively high for a 2200 sqft home, but with all the architects, engineers, and upgrades this may be a good ballpark. With all of the sponsorships and connections in the industry, I believe he will keep the rebuild cost under 250K. In the end, he will be way over priced for the area, but he loves the neighborhood and the house will be spectacular.
Agreed, but not what Matt is getting his materials for because he his getting free or discounted. What would the average everyday person have to pay? I doubt we'll get an answer...he tends to steer clear of pricing unless he's doing a comparison video which I don't think he does anymore.
Joel I REALLY wish he’d share those details. I’m in the beginning stages of building my house and would love to see what I might be able to afford (I know prices may vary). No one in their right mind would see Matt’s house as “average” so of course it’s going to be on the high side. Matt is very blessed and acknowledges this often. There’s no shame in that. I hope he sees that it would be a big help to others if he shares more details, not in the spirit of boasting, but in the spirit of teaching and helping others, which he does so well.
Fun Fact: Polyisocyanurate roof insulation may have an LTTR of 5.6 / inch, but that’s a comparative number, as it gains slight efficiency as it gets thicker. At 4” you’d expect R of 22.4, but it actually tests closer to 24. Something you don’t hear about is it’s performance at cold temperatures, where at 0 degrees F that same 4” might have a tested R of 18.
thanks for clarifying the method of putting an overhang on the "down-jacket" to form the "umbrella". Using LVL material is what makes this work (my engineer doesn't like the detail, but maybe now with LVLs). I'm sure you'll cover it in the episode you mentioned that will be coming up, but I'm guessing the sub-fascia is structural in order to connect the 'outrigger' rafters at each corner. Thanks again.
I live in northern Ontario Canada and am building my own house this year, tried to get the engineer to approve 4" of exterior insulation with no luck. They said code is 2" max any more then that would cause condnsation and mold. I tried arguing with them but couldn't convince them. I guess the science just hasn't made it this far yet unfortunately or the engineer is just set in his ways. Awesome videos, really learned lots from you. Definitely going to focus alot more on the little details with my build!
Your engineer is talking rubbish. I have installed up to 12 inches of installation on roofs in the UK. Condensation is dealt with by having a vapour barrier under the insulation and waterproof membrane on top.
@@samplumbe3288 12" would be nice! Ya I just got tired of arguing with them, and they are the only ones in our area so sadly I'm settling for on 2" on the exterior and 6" bat inside.
@@jeramibrigdencarpentry7716 screw the engineer. It is your house! Do 12" if you want.
I did this on my build in the mountains of NC. I had to go 6 inches of insulation due to my climate zone. Went with 2 layers of 3 inch panels. This type of roof insulating is superb. Highly recommend it.
Did same when I re-roofed my workshop in Charlotte and our Lake Lure house. Made a world of difference in both of those. Now planning a new workshop build & home renovation in Blowing Rock which will have 4" PolyIso on walls and 6" on roofs. After working & living with it since 2019, I'd never build/insulate any other way.
It's interesting to see this go together. I've never seen a house built like this before.
As a non-builder, I finally see how this is done. Just looking at photos or reading articles, I could never understand the full design and installation. Thanks for sharing all this information.
Is there an advantage to having the two layers of zip over something like a Zip-R or a SIP? Guess my concern is that you've essentially got two layers of waterproofing that could potentially trap moisture in your insulating layer. If we're going with the jacket analogy, I usually like to keep my insulating layers (ie: a sweatshirt) inside my weatherproofing layers (the jacket) so as to not get the insulating wet, so it seems curious to be trying to do essentially the reverse.
There is no such thing as too much insulation - the payback relative to the life of the house (and towards a green future for our kids) is amazing!! Just planning to put a new roof on my exiting roof and will use the same approach you did - thank you 😊
I’ve loved following this project and it’s coming together nicely. I have a few questions from a building perspective...
1.) Are you having any difficulty catching your rafters with your final Lag screw on your top layer of zip?
2.) Are you aiming for passive house standards?
3.) What will your total R value be on walls and ceiling?
Your #1 question is one that I have been thinking about quite a lot as well. To hit the center of an 1 1/2" wide surface over a 4 1/2" length seems tricky. I realized that Matt stated they're pulling chalk lines from the beginning to stay on rafter centers, but how does one continue to maintain that reference as layers are increased? Is the crew pulling new chalk lines as each layer in the assembly is added to keep the reference until the final ZIP sheathing is placed? @Matt Risinger or @Steven Baczek Architect, would you be able provide some workflow insight/details there?
The best to learn about building, do it for yourself that way mistakes and problems that come up. You'll know how to fix them and find the solution so when you do work for a customer you know what can and can't happen. Great Job!!! Love the new house!
Matt can you show what you did for the bottom end of the rooftop insulation? Does it come out all the way to the fascia? Did you end it at house wall and if so where would any water go if it got in?
Thanks Matt! Great videos I have learned tons from them!!
Why do I like these videos so much? I'm not a builder. I live in a condominium converted from a 1920's warehouse with crazy HOA restrictions (I basically have to sacrifice my first born to even peek behind the drywall). I will never install a roof, yet this series has been so satisfying to watch.
I guess Matt's informative articulate, genuine tone compounded with an educated Texan accent--that reminds me of my cousin's and uncle's--get's this Californian urbanite looking forward to the next video in this start to finish series. Thanks.
It's sooooooooooo cool!!!
I would love to see you do a video on how the construction would have been different if it was built in the north. Love the show! God bless you.
I don't think it would have to be much different
If I understand correctly there is a vapor barrier at the zip system. I’ve heard talk on the build show about interior vapor barriers in Northern climate construction. How would you stack the components of the exterior wall assembly to avoid condensation issues In those climates. Also curious about best practices when it comes to insulating ceilings/roof decks. I have only seen typical vented roof systems in my area. Just trying to get my head around any differences in design based on climate zone.
This is probably one of my favorite videos that u have shared with us. Just to let u know I've watched it over & over, thanks Matt.
Hey Matt, I just wanted to say, it's nice to see your guys wearing fall protection. Pretty uncommon in residential construction world, especially single-family, duplexes and the like.
I really like the roof detail and rafter (if you can call it that) detail. I got hold of Sheffield metal and they got hold of a roofing contractor for me and I'm having a standing Sheffield metal roof put on all thanks to Ryan Wagner from Sheffield ,Excel metal roofing from Versailles Mo.and YOU! for showing me the way, with all the details to ask for since I'm not working with an architect. Thanks You.
Ive never seen someone who love insulation SO much
It is about time someone did a video about this roof deck system. Thank you, Matt!
Matt, are you doing a metal roof on the house? If so, why not use the furring strips above the ATLAS and below the metal vs a second layer of zip? That woulds give you the air channel and save on the cost of the 2nd zip sheathing layer. Also, in KY I have been trying to find Atlas (or other with the fiberglass vapor perm poly. but no joy) any tips on how to buy this product? Called Atlas but no joy.
Most residential metal roofs aren't structural, so they're not rated to span the empty 12.5-14.5 inches between the furring strips. For some thicker gauge metal roofs you can put down the furring strips and then a layer of skip sheathing or purlins over that, then install the roof. The ribs provide flexural strength in one plane and the skip sheathing in the other.
It’s nice to see that the USA is finally starting to catch up energy issues in building hopefully it spreads we build a better garage in the north then most houses I’ve seen in the south I’ve been a carpenter for fourty six years
This is a tremendous installation. I wished I knew about this product before I started our addition. You're doing a great job Matt of expanding the viewers horizon and knowledge.
Your videos inspire me to build our own home....and makes me disappointed living in our 100yr+ old home that screams with inefficiency. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for mentioning the fasteners that you use, I was just looking for some washers like that the other day.
Matt, you've crossed a new threshold here. Thanks for bringing so many things down to earth in this series.
Just out of curiosity, do you think the first layer of roof sheathing could have been just typical plywood or osb, and then lay the insulation and Zip sheathing on top to save some money or would that defeat the purpose of the raincoat layer? Very interesting build Matt!
I think that layer was used for an air barrier
So that bottom layer of zip is air barrier + structural sheathing
I’m not familiar with the costs, but it does seem too layers of zip is overkill. Would be curious to see a more economical solution. A different air barrier on the lower sheathing, or a less expensive upper sheathing?
I can see Zip for the first layer, then plywood for above as the bottom air seals it.
I was wondering the same thing but more along the lines of now you have a middle section between two vapor barriers which is generally a no no.
I’m excited to see this build all the way through. It’s awesome you get to build your dream house
I have used polyiso foam board insulation for exterior insulation and without exception ants nested in it and made a mess, destroying the insulation & structural value. Did you consider using Rock Wool Comfort Board 110 or even 80? It would also provide a LOT more sound absorbing/blocking. Rock Wool will not shrink nor loose insulation value over time either. I think this would have been a MUCH more superior roof top insulation material that is not only pretty much fire proof but bug & rodent proof as well as specifically designed for this application.
Rock wool didn't feel is was necessary to give him a bunch of free insulation .
What type of ants?
this is a fantasy build for anyone who isn't a builder because you will never get anyone to insure all the detail needed for this to be a reality house, but it's nice seeing it done, thanks.
Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds th-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
It's looking good, Matt! I'm glad you are getting to do one for yourself!
Cool! Would've liked to see how you are insulating the inside of the house roof. Spray foam, rock wool, fiberglass ? Vapor barrier? How are you mitigating the condensation? Dehumifier only?
Love the feature over the stairs, raised roof. Can the windows be remotely opened? I've seen barns and industrial buildings with this feature to pull hot air to the top and allow fresh air to come in from down low. Is it called a cupola?
Knowing matt it will be rockwool, spray foam is too risky at this point, it could ruin the house. Just a tip, if you do use spray foam use basf closed cell foam, i didnt need a mask while watching the guys spray it. I use to sell it up until i realise the company's ethics were lower than mine, plus all the nightmares of mixing chemicals unprofessionally in the back of a truck...people have been hurt by it, what a nightmare wonder product....I would use exactly what he is using up there between my studs, but since he has it already Watch he will use the fireproof rockwool
Also I dont think we use vapor barrier in the inside in the south anymore. Just outside in southern states. Thats a cold climate thing only I believe...i have however seen it in remodeling, im in Florida
This is why I watch your videos Matt, you know how to properly seal windows, doors, and framing...
good job 👏
"A nice, thick blanket of insulation"
-Matt's favorite phrase of this video
Commercial iso is great stuff!! When I was a project manager for Nations Roof that’s all you use on commercial building. Great job!!👍💯
Man... I watch these videos because one day I'd like to build my own house. The more I watch the more insurmountable it seems.
No one builds like this. Watch some conventional construction videos. It doesn't take an engineer to build a roof. You might want to try using some of Matt's ideas but nothing like this video. It's overkill in the extreme.
@@oltedders I'd be very interested in what you consider a baseline standard?
Just take your time - it's not rocket science. And if you want to get your feet wet, I suggest you contact your local "Habitat for Humanity" group - they can always use the help and will teach you a lot in exchange.
Start off building a shed for some tools, or an office space, 10x12. You can practice basic wiring, insulation, foundation, framing, sheathing, roofing, flashing, etc. If you go much smaller than that you won't get a good feel for flashing and insulation details.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 A standard cookie cutter house gets 7/16 osb 16" O.C. and 15lbs roof felt, with 12" blow-in fiberglass in the attic and vented eaves. An upgraded roof gets 7/16 osb, 30lbs felt with spray foam to the decking underside. This house is basically getting two roofs on top with insulation sandwiched in-between. Open cell spray foam is around $1.50 per sq ft for 6" and 7/16 osb is about $9 per sheet. So roughly about $1.70 per sq ft (for just those two materials) for a really well insulated "standard" roof. That poly-ISO is about $25 per 4x8 sheet, and the zip is about $22 per sheet, so about $2.93 per sq ft for just the foam and zip materials and about the same r-value. However, when you get into the extra labor, special fasteners, sealants and tapes needed for what Matt did, it's waaaaay more. I'd rather put down 3/4 tongue and groove plywood, ice and water shield all the way and closed cell foam underneath. That'd be a bombproof roof, equally insulated, and a lot cheaper.
These days, any progress is good progress. Stay safe and keep building! Thanks for taking us along for the ride. This house has a ton of cool details.
Matt, it looks like you're practically creating your own SIPS. Have you used SIPS on a roof? What do you think of that option?
FWIW: I built a house with SIP roofing. Bottom line: it is great.
He has old videos about sips..I'm guessing the big difference is this is totally customizable whereas sips is less forgiving if I'm understanding them correctly
SIPS offer some really nice and similar benefits, but they don't have the overlapping seams between layers like Matt's install method shown here. This means that the seam-sealing becomes extremely crucial, and when you factor in shrinkage (which will occur after the seams have been sealed) and movement, the chances of failure can be quite high, as evidenced by the number of observed failures that you can find with some quick searching.
@@damenh85 I guess that's the point of taping the joints, but you're right. All of the SIPS I've seen here on TH-cam use solid blocks of wood to join the pieces which creates a thermal bridge.
@@MandoFettOG With SIPs, you buy the thickness you want.
Thoughts about overbuilding the neighborhood?
This is really making me think about what can be done to improve my late 80's brick home.
Matt, you need to address your viewers about when to go crazy on this and when not to. I have a customer that is dead set on doing a double roof. his house is in a shaded area and he is also planning on placing Solar panels on top. to top that off his house is built directly on a concrete pad with no crawl space, ac vents are in the concrete as well. you need to make a video that gives the ins and outs and real world applications, and you sure need to prepare them for the cost and time it will take to do this sort of thing. Right now material cost is 2-2.9% higher than it was at the start of the year, LVL's have always been premium priced and the foam board you are using is not cheap as well.
Now for my questions, you have fiberglass on the foam, what is the fire resistance of that?
Are you going to install a fresh air HVAC system as you have sealed the house off? And if so, what one are you going to use.
Matt, thanks for share your wisdom. I’m a regular guy who plans to build some day.
How regular are you 👁️👄👁️
Loved this video. Was curious about the joints from roof to wall on this process.
....ALSO: Props to the guy who came up with the idea for that drone timelapse from the overhead. View. Looks really cool. I bet he was a bit disappointed with the wind drift but I think that actually looks great to give it a bit of 3D space.
Love this video too!!!
Steven Baczek Architect -- would love to see something from your perspective Steve, from the architects point of view....especially for flat roofs and cold climate (snow/ice). Maybe options with Rockwool as well.
Hey Matt, love the show!, So are you saying you dont need to vent the roof space at all with roof vents?
That is going to be an incredibly comfortable home. Congrats Matt.
My buddy did that roof detail and the shingles curled prematurely on the south side. We had to re-roof with a 3/4" air space between the surface of the foam and the new decking, venting at the eaves and ridge. And we're in Connecticut! I hope you avoid that problem.
Matt ...math question...if the poly iso shrinks on an 8'/96" sheet at 1% would that not be .96 of an inch gap between over 8 feet. Just to make sure. Following very closely as looking to do this to my house in southern Indiana. Thankyou very much.
Rob Lapekas I wonder if that should be “.1%”
Why did you add the insulation on top of or as part of the roof instead of spray foam on the inside? Curious the thought process behind the decision. Great idea on how to make the whole house air tight by adding the eves later.
Matt I love this build - keep up the content!!!
Me too!!
Your videos are just great. I'm not a builder, but I'm learning a lot, and it's a nice experience. Thanks!
I think so too!!
I'd def want a house built with his knowledge n expertise
I've learned so much from watching your videos. This house you are building is going to be great. Thank you for posting your work and sharing your knowledge. I want to build a house like yours. Please come to SoCal.
Wow Matt, Your the first person I heard that admits openly the initial loss of Poly Iso.... But my point is 2 lb Density EPS Foam Insulation is more rigid, is the same R Value 5.76 at 70 degrees F, the R Value is very stable and you don't have to worry about water getting on it (You can even use it underground). And the Price is cheaper for the EPS foam insulation. You do great work and you are a great guy, I think once you start using the 2 lb density EPS, you will find the advantages are better than you initially thought!
I *think* (not sure) that EPS is not rated for those high roof temperatures. Polyiso definitely is.
@@fredochs We and many other Roofing contractors are using the EPS foam insulation under commercial low slope (flat roof) roofing single ply membranes, and 1 lb density is required, but the 2 lb density, you get better R Value and is more rigid, which I like better.
The ISO he picked is the proper insulation and the fiberglass facer is worth the extra money for the added protection
How well ldoes polyiso burn vs EPS?
@@fllev4121 Although Poly Iso has higher flame properties, both types of foam will burn with flames present. I consider the EPS a much better product for the life of the home. It is a consideration when building to consider fire protection. But Chemical companies know, but don't publicize that the "drifting" of gases out, doesn't end in the first 2 years. But continues through out it's lifetime. They consider in the specs a lifetime to be 15 years. But in a typical lifetime of 25 years or more, there can be a loss of 50% of R value. EPS does not gas out. The R Value is constant. You can more easily order EPS with denser (more compressive strength / and higher R Value) boards than Poly Iso.
From an Article: Both EPS and polyiso are combustible materials. They can be made to catch fire. The building codes require occupied spaces to be separated by a fire resistant material that will protect the foam for at least 15 minutes. A 1/2 inch thickness of drywall can provide this protection.
www.wconline.com/articles/87430-the-finish-line-eps-vs-polyisocyanurate-insulation
big fan man!!! eager to see the video after this is finished and what different moves you would have made after this build now knowing what you do now. thanks for the vids!
Would there be any benefit to taping the foam in order to handle the future ~1% shrinkage?
Not really. It'd just rip a chunk out of the surface or possibly deform the roof surface.
Caulk the joints? No air flow between at all then.
Bro im so happy for you! You are living the dream! One day I hope to build one for myself and I definitely will be using a lot of the methods and products that I have learned from you... this video has been one of my favorites I can not wait to see more! I love this job so much, you are overkilling it! Bro one house I built I waterproofed the entire interior just like a showerpan to keep out bugs and protect the walls from water damage if ever a leak, I used a paintable membrane throught the house, I love details like this...
I've asked this before but what about a system to capture rainwater to store for irrigation use? I know the City of Austin has programs and rebates for such systems. Look up greywater.
Terrific. Blessings on your home to house your beloved family. God dwell with all forever.
When this house is finished, if you fart in it not only are going to be able to smell it for a week or so, but the fart will keep you warm and cozy for at least 2 days. Nice video Matt :)
Nah. Fresh air system.
@hyperstrike have you heard of the best fresh air system ever?? It’s called opening windows. Highly recommended
@@ykciR WRONG!
That's not a "system". That's uncontrolled ventilation. It brings in dust, pollen and other pollutants.
An actual fresh air system brings air in and filters it before pushing it into the HVAC system.
I have been watching a lot of the Videos for a few months now. I started building a Treehouse for my kids and I cant help but make it ridiculously insulated now. (We live in Las Vegas and Need AC to do anything when its 115 degrees in summer). I figure why not practice some of these details before my retirement home build in Northern Nevada. Keep up the amazing Content. I learn a lot from you every Video! Thanks Matt!
Geez....
Hey Matt, Great videos and information on your home. I'm currently remodeling our sixties home. A couple of questions, where are you venting your plumbing? Through the roof? And how should I seal my foundation wall? I'm taking the outside walls down to the studs, and the concrete blocks, I have a crawl space. Should my zip system sheathing cover my foundation concrete blocks? Thanks Matt for your videos.
its going to be an icechest. great work
Did you consider thermal conductivity of the fasteners through the insulation layer, transferring heat and cold into the framing through all of your insulation. Would it make sense to use wood strips over the foam to fasten the sheathing into. Few fasteners through wood strips many through the sheathing. Also if you are using shingles all the roofers will be perforating the foam up to an inch or so. Love your videos, keep pushing the envelope.
There will be some, but minimal.
And it'll be counteracted by the insulation on the interior.
Have you ever did any builds that incorporated a residential fire sprinkler system?
Just another system to add, they are actually pretty easy to install
I'm surprised you don't tape those under seems of the insulation!!!! Luv the way you overkill everything lol... SUPER AWESOME builds!!!!!!! people should be learning from this, especially here in Canada!!!!! Dude im a regular guy but luv your vids as it allows me to have wicked conversations with my brother in law who builds 15 million plus high r valued housing!!
Looking forward to a thermal camera view when it's finished
Loving this build for sure -- QUESTION -- with the PolyIso insulation on the roof, you mention that the fiberglass face won't/can't have mold problems if it gets wet. I should say that i have seen fiberglass sailboats get lots of mold on their interior ceilings/headliners, made of fiberglass, when left in humid conditions for a few weeks. Kind of a common issue in the sailboat community. Not sure that this facer on polyiso insulation would actually be immure to mold solely because it is fiberglass. Maybe there is some other property added to the fiberglass face that stops or inhibits mold growth??
@matt By any chance is the Zip R sheathing "officially"rated for flat roofing yet . i know you did a video while back when one of your contractor friends build a flat roof however it wasnt official
Cj James I was thinking the same if his architect didn’t call for 5/8th sheathing if a guy could do that instead of all that extra effort.
I just emailed a rep about this and they said it's not officially meant for roofing, but they've had plenty of customers do it and haven't had problems. It also doesn't void the warranty to use it on a roof.
If I understand this correctly, you are essentially building your own SiP panel on the roof: OSB > seal sheet > 4” insulation > 5/8” decking > seal sheet > steel sheet. Interesting tails on the eaves. What happens between them?
Any worry about the LVL that’s on the outside of the zip sheeting rotting out
he said he'd talk about the overhand in a later video
I'm sure they'll all be covered and protected when they're finished..
Will probably be stained/sealed/painted
I actually only asked because of this other video he did and explained engineered materials rotting quicker . th-cam.com/video/30Jy2RTBd88/w-d-xo.html
Once he puts the facia on, it doesn't really matter if the underside is otherwise exposed to the elements, it will dry faster than. It can get wet.
This is how I did the apartment over my garage. From bottom to top, rafters with Rockwool R30, foam flash on inside of OSB sheeting, felt paper, 2 inches roof insulation, another 2 inches of roof insulation, another sheet of OSB, felt paper again, and shingles. The overall assembly is roughly R50 with low convection and no wind penetration, and all my ductwork is in conditioned space. Very efficient.
Why PolyIso vs. the Comfort Board mineral wool buildups you were showcasing in your Canadian tour?
Oblio 91 I’m guessing it is the rigidity and lack of compression. I find the mineral wool can be tricky to manage the compression when installing it. My two cents.
One is a sponsor?
Id say its the compression. I use comfort board on the exterior of my builds and you have to be very carful around all windows and doors to not suck in the rain screen too much.
Atlas is sponsoring the video. We use Polyiso a lot in Canada, but it's more prevalent in commercial construction.
There is also the option of wood fiber insulation. It is used through Europe and has very rigid options. Good sound insulation, too.
Great video, Matt can you describe the detail of how you covered the edges of the foam board under the overhang please.
Would there be any benefit to just adding insulation to a conventional roof say when replacing shingles or metal roofing?
Definitely! There would be details to work out, both to make sure it works as far a vapor issues and for appearance. But it's definitely worth looking into.
I had a friend who replaced her conventional roof about 9 months ago. She took off all of the old asphalt shingles down to the decking. She replaced parts of the decking but not all. She laid down a layer of synthetic roofing material on top of the decking. Then put sheets of foam board that had a radiant barrier on one side facing up. She then put down furring strips running and secured to the rafters. Finally she put down a metal roof. I’m waiting to find out if she as seen a big difference in her utility bill!
Only if you're planning to insulate at the roofline in the first place. If the insulation will be/stay on the attic floor isn't not going to do much.
Matt, I am not a professional builder but I am start a home renovation in Florida. I am looking to copy your "monopoly framing" but I have a much smaller budget. What is the cost for framing this way plus having the polyiso layer? Do you need a second layer of Zip over the iso?
Love your channel Matt, so much good information. Will you ever do a retrofit/upgrade to a smaller size home built in the 60's or 70's to current building science? Something a homeowner could handle?
I will be interested in the savings in heat and cooling once the build is done. I may have missed it but will the house need air filtering/exchanger to purify the air because it is so tightly built?
drinking game: take a shot everytime matt says blanket of insulation
looking at this scheme - Matt has certainly been drinking
two shots when he says blanket and umbrella, lol
I cannot wait for the end result! looks amazing so far Matt!
What about condensation forming between the Zip sheathing and the poly-iso?
Zip is a weather barrier. It's designed to handle water.
ArthurDentZaphodBeeb yes it’s is but where does the water go? The poly-iso and the underside of the top piece of Zip sheathing are sandwiched between two walther barriers so how does the water escape?
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Its still osb and osb doesn't handle water well, so I'd call it water resistant. Same as mold resistant drywall, its still drywall it will mold.
Zip is also a breathable vapor barrier so it should evap out
It will dry to the inside because of the conditioned attic with the air exchanger, dehumidifier, and hvac system.
Another super job by matt, one question, why did you choose to have no venting above the foam? I did nearly the exact detail on my house except we laid our sleepers above the final layer of rigid. We screwed our sleepers all the way back to framing with long GRK's. this left us with a 1 1/2" air gap after we installed the final roof sheathing. Then I ran ridge vents etc. I believe it called a cold roof assembly. Did you have a specific reason for your detail?
You are correct but it does not appears that he is finished yet.
"... a little has changed in world."
Hahaha
As someone not educated enough yet in construction methods - When I see the thickness of foam insulation he's adding both on the roof and the exterior walls in his other video - I can't help but wonder, does this negatively impact how strong the exterior cladding attachment will be? I'm more curious for his external walls, If you are putting siding on this, is there concern during a really bad windstorm?
My favorite Risinger series is this one. Are you still doing a cost analysis at the end?
I bet the owner is difficult to work with.
@@KevinSmith-qi5yn
He certainly has some peculiar ideas about building a home in Austin Texas. This place could easily handle a 140° temperature swing.
@@oltedders The idea is the structure should be long-lived and should handle any weather it can throw at you.
@@PhotonHerald
A roof is the 1st and last defense in keeping a structure intact. Especially if it is in a wet climate like east Texas where it gets so much rain. This roof is not geared for protection against the weather as much as extreme temperatures. It's way overbuilt for the climate in Austin Texas.
@@oltedders Ever consider the majority of houses in Texas are under built? For a country as technologically advanced as we are, are homes are constructed to extremely horrible, embarrassing standards
Great to see your new home coming together Matt. More importantly, it's Friday, but Sunday's coming! 🙏🏽
What about the effects of thermal bridging from all those steel screws? Some guy in a passive house video said as much as 30% reduction in total R value from fasteners if they go clear through the wall. The roof over the continuous air barrier is a cool idea, but how would one mitigate the fastener thermal bridging?
Shooting from the hip, 30% sounds pretty high. If you consider the area of the roof compared to the area of the screws, that 30% sounds quite high. It would be interesting to hear how that reduction in R-value was calculated. I think one could set up an experiment with these materials and then heat one side and compare temperatures.
30%? Horse pucky. It's a fractional percentage.
I realize this is anecdotal, but I was very curious about this myself when I did my walls with 3" of exterior foam, with 3/4" rain screen and 6" Powerlag screws. I figured if the thermal bridging was as significant as some people speculated, it would easily show up on a thermal camera. While I could identify thermally where the screws were (with an interior to exterior delta of about 70 degrees F), the delta was substantially less pronounced than the thermal bridging evident in a standard framed 2x4 wall with drywall.
At the end of the day, the small bridging from the screws far outweighs the benefit of continuous external insulation in my personal experimentation. Ultimately I elected to add a few more screws than minimally recommended because I was more concerned with rain screen sag than thermal bridging. I don't buy 30% reduction in total R-value.
It can be more than 30%. Carbon steel has a thermal resistance 800 times lower than wood, which is r2.5 per inch.
Imagine each screw penetration is like exposing a section of wall 800 times bigger than itself.
It doesn't negate the insulation but you do use a lot. Especially on a roof that is going to be in the hot Texas sun.
@@raulcaba5552 Ok but the actual mass/area of the steel screw is much less than the surrounding area of insulation. 30% seems way too high to me.
Are you available to do seminars? I ask this question not only for myself but for a group that I am a part of. If this would mean that we would have to come to you in your area, that would not be a problem. I am excited to see the advancements in technology and what that means in terms of energy savings and longevity of the structures being built.
Glad to see you are building your "dream" home at the moment. I "super insulated" a 3500 sqft. home in Florida 34 years ago, using polyiso just on the outside vertical walls, not the roof. A few years ago, with just 10-kW of PV, it was giving back to the grid a bit more electricity than it used, on an annual basis. Recently I started planning a repeat "super insulated" home, only smaller, and was glad to find several of your TH-cam videos using polyiso insulation. Now that you are using all your experience with polyiso and other updated materials on your home, it is great to follow your videos to pick up pointers on best building practices.
I know that your plan is to install a metal roof, however it might not be too late to also look into the Tesla Solar Glass.
www.tesla.com/solarroof/design
It would be a shame if you don't make this house fully electric and solar powered, with some Li-Ion batteries to ride out any storm. You are in Texas, surrounded by oil with plenty of wind farms and complementing the environment with lots of PV should remind Big Oil (especially now) that there's more to Energy than Texas Tea, if one is into Energy.
Looking forward to more videos on your house.
Hi Matt Really enjoy watching your videos have learned quite a bit. Had a thought about all the work being put in for the overhang. Did you consider hanging the final layer of the the osb out by itself meaning none of the framing that has been done. Have the tail rafter with the bottom cord already made up and install it with screws down from the top and toe screw bottom cord into rake board on the wall. Install the fascia. Would save all the framing and all the fitting of foam and still be solid
I feel like he’s the classic dad “don’t touch my thermostat”
Love your show. I’m about to get started on my house and I plan to do this kind of roof instead of SIP panels. The home is a timber frame house with 1” x 10” ceiling boards visible in half the interior. How can I do lighting and electrical in the ceiling with foam on top?
wait so this house IS going to have overhangs? whew, looks great!
really not a fan of homes w/no overhangs.
Fake overhangs. Matt loves fake products. OSB is fake plywood. Hardie plank is fake wood. Matt calls it the Monopoly house. I call it the Faux House.
Love the fastener discussion, my curiosity had me wondering.
That roof is an incredible expense. If you could go over the long term value in terms of dollars, I would be curious to know.
Jeffrey Lawson, Standard sheathing and water proofing on roofs is around $0.80 a SqFt. For this entire system, double sheathing, foam, and double zip water proofing you’re closer to around $4 per square foot based on similar materials I found on Home Depot.
@@Arteolike I know Matt isn't paying for a lot of this, but even $4/ sq ft sounds a little low.
Looks like Matt is insulating for the weather of the future...its going to get really hot or really cold in our lifetime! Insulation is cheap now...wait until its 125 degrees Fahrenheit outside....Matt you are using your genius in this build! Great Job!
The slight camera movement on the top-down shots makes the house look like it's wobbling ... kinda like the whole structure is made out of jelly or rubber.
Reminded me of a pole barn build. LOL
Out of curiosity, why not use foil-faced foam as the top layer of roof insulation, with 1x4 battens between that and the top layer of Zip like you did on the walls?
If I ever win the lottery, I’m hiring you to build my dream home.
I'd love to see a heating/cooling cost comparison(per 100 sq foot) between this house and a more conventional home..
Seems like body heat will keep it comfortable. Are you thinking about solar as well?
You are right!