Easy build PTC Enclosure Heater for Better 3D resin printing - using W1209WK controller - by VOGMAN
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
- 🔹 UPDATE... HAVE YOU SEEN MY ALTERNATIVE DESIGN? 🔹 ▶ • EASY BUILD resin print...
Since this video, I have designed my own heater. Before deciding which you should build, check out the video here • EASY BUILD resin print...
Better 3D Resin prints is only possible if your resin temperature is ideal. There's a simple way to achieve this - an enclosure heater. This Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC) Heater is small enough for most resin printers but big enough to pack a punch. This is a DIY build, but the original designer made this easy and here I'll step you through the process using the W1209WK temperature controller.
ORIGINAL CREATOR "X3msnake"
www.thingiverse.com/thing:344...
Facebook : tinyurl.com/5yu2j39k
Please don't forget to Tip the creator on Thingiverse
PARTS LIST
Before buying, consider my updated design here ▶ • EASY BUILD resin print...
Controller - be sure to select W1209WK ebay.to/2Gvkz4W
PTC 100W Fan Heater 12V ebay.us/wkPO9h
Magnets 5x2mm ebay.us/iArAvt
0:00 Introduction
1:55 Parts list
2:58 Printing
3:28 Assembly / Disassembly
4:19 Electronics
5:22 Wiring Guide
6:44 Program Guide
10:14 Fitting
11:30 Warranty
11:42 Summary
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Awsome video Master, thanks for the tip and more importantly for investing the time to create a build tutorial that have been missing from the start :)
I have added your video to the thinguiverse.
Thank YOU for this amazing share. It's a great build. It must have taken you ages. You have my respect sir. Great job!
@@vogman It was a iterative process back in the days of the photon OG. it took around 2 to 3 months development with a bunch of failed prints to get the supports just right to print in any printer, namely sla laser printers.
The design had to take in account less great resins and i ended up making custom screw holes in order to avoid cracked cases
My wish when I released the designs as public domain was that by now i would be able to buy a bootleg copy of my design from china at half the price it took me to build one.
Turns out that designing around off the shelf chinese parts probably means that any chance of a bootleg will be low since the margins on that would most likely be too low lolol.
Either way it is cool to have a diy part that still works after all these years.
I would consider throttling that heater down with a buck controller for safety reasons. A thermal runaway or broken fan on a 100W heater can lead to a burning disaster. It wouldn't be the first time a thermal runaway is responsible for a burned down house.
@@Bullshitvol2 PTC heaters can't suffer from thermal runaway by design. They are self-regulating and were specifically designed to run open-loop without any diagnostic controls. As the material heats up, its internal resistance also does exponentially, effectively self limiting.
I agree with VogMan.. thank you for sharing your build. Between you, Vogman, and some blender edits I now have a great little heater that has helped my prints immensely. You guys are awesome!
I'm actually using this heater for my Saturn semi automation project. One thing I would advise to anyone is grab a thermal fuse and place next to the ptc heater. If the fan fails, that heater, heats very quick and can potentially cause a fire.
Nice tip. Thanks 😁
Hello, can you clarify what you mean by "place next to the PTC heater?" And also suggest a suitable fuse for this? Thanks!
May I ask what type of thermal fuse would be best. I'm guessing it would need to be 10a but what would the cut off temp be.
Instead of drilling holes for wire in the lid, you can print adapter between base and lid, wich has a hole or slot for the wire
Excellent thinking.
Clever!
Did anyone do this? Im wondering how this would work? Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to put together this great instructional video. I just finished building one and it worked perfect right from the start.
Great project. It's on my to do list. I have my printers on very cold place... sometimes goes down to 6 degrees, so this is a great solution. Thank you VOG and has always a great video.
Great video! I live in Canada and have my printers in the basement. Having the resin at these higher temperatures makes a BIG difference. I have a similar rig but it is inside a Creality tent. The housing and magnets is a great idea.
It's a great design and used one for over 2 years myself.
Thank you for the mention and explaining so well how to build one ☺️
And that YOU for putting me on to this build 😁
Been using it for a year now, and makes a HUGE difference! Totally recommend!
Thanks for the feedback 😁😁😁👍👍👍
If only this came out last week. I started building a small chamber heater for my VoxeLab Proxima using a 120w heater instead of the 100w you used. I was trying to design my own case for it to hold a W1209 temp controller, but then saw this video. Ordered the smaller controller you used and printed the case last night. Came out perfectly (it is temporarily in my spare bedroom all toasty) once the controller comes will wire up. I presumer the side circles on the case are also for magnet placement, so I can stick it on the side of the metal column.
I just wanted to thank you. I recently finished building a modified version of this PTC heater with an extended housing and a power switch built in. I shared it on Thingiverse in the remixed versions of the original the link you shared. Your video and the supply links provided in your description were infinitely helpful. It is well paced, concise, detailed, and made the project much easier and straight forward. I tend to run my house colder than most in the winter, and this heater has made it so I can reliably print again. So again.. thank you for posting this video. Also I hope you don't mind.. I captured a screen grab of one of your wiring diagrams, modified it to represent my build, and included it in the pictures for the build on Thingiverse. I made sure to mention your video in the description. This is a truly excellent video.
Thank you so much for such an informative and easy-to-follow video - just finished the second of these heaters to keep my two resin printers printing reliably through the UK winter :)
I'm awaiting parts for my second build. I've been very impressed with mine too 😁😁😁
This is just the type of tool and instructions I might resort to. Thanks so much for sharing this!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for making this video! I have my printer in a pantry (with an exhaust fan to the outside), and it gets quite cold in the winter. This is exactly the solution that I needed!
Also, your channel is top 2 among my favorite 3D printing channels, keep your awesome videos coming!
You are so welcome!
I was literally thinking about how to build a heated enclosure two days ago. Thanks!
It's that time of year I guess. Glad I could help 😁
Thank you for this, I ordered everything and have downloaded the heater body stl files, but what i have done is elongated the body an extra 20mm to give me a bit of extra space to work with, I highly recommend people do this, thanks again.
I just want to thank you for the patient, well enunciated, and highly efficient and informative summary of the programming functions of the thermostat. The instructions are printed so small as to be nearly illegible, and what can actually be read is almost incomprehensible.
That's very kind 😁
Looking forward to seeing your heater in action all the best Geoff 👍
Thanks Ian. Take care buddy 😁
Well, it wont be my next project (workshop is pretty warm even in winter), but this looks like a great little item. Well done to the guys that put this together! It looks bloody useful.
If you notice extra printers whirring away in your workshop, it's just me 😁😁😁
@@vogman No room! Buddy! And more on the way. It's like they're breeding. Which is a pity cause if printers bred I would save a fortune. What would you even feed a baby printer? Resin in a baby bottle?
A fantastic walk through for a great design. Great job all around!
Many thanks 😁
Another VOG upload in my subscription feed = another great morning =D I built something similar last year, but mine wasn't as elegant. I had a spare generic heat controller from an old soldering iron and a solid-state relay. Mounted it all in a (much larger) box with a wall outlet as the output so I could plug in a small space heater. I used a bit of painters' tape to mount the thermocouple just next to the resin tray. When it drops below the setpoint, the outlet becomes live and powers the heater. I just pointed the heater at the printer. Crude, but it got me through last winter with minimal issues! =D
That sounds a practical solution 😁👍👍👍
@@vogman Yep, Harbor Freight here in the US sells a 12v heater unit that's marketed as an windshield defroster. It plugs into a cigarette lighter port in a car. It has what looks like the same heater block inside and a nice little mini squirrel cage fan. $15 USD.
Sounds perfect 😁
Amazing! With this walk-through, even my mum would be able to make this! Awesome video as usual :))
Thanks Lujke. And thanks Luke's mom 😁
Vogman, a hero among the thorns. Thank you for your content.
Aw, shucks... thanks 😁😁😁
I intend to print in the garage, living in scotland this is an awesome video, thank you
Thanks for sharing 👍 You made an excellent guide with easy to understand instructions.
Glad you enjoyed it! 😁
Thanks for sharing, will definitely be looking into this once I get my Phrozen Mini 8K in January. Great video and instructions!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this great tip, and how-to-guide. I've just ordered all the items, and can't wait for them to show up, so I can get back to 3d printing - The room I currently have my printers in has become to cold to print in, so I really hope this will make it possible to print over the winter :)
Thanks very much for the kind donation 😁😁😁
Even watching the vid itself is fun. Thank you for sharing!
very worth while having these, i added a ptc heater to the case permently rather than this solution. But they work so well. it annoys me that printers dont come with this built in.
I love when you can print something for the printer. or anything useful! so cool!
Me too. I love the practical applications of 3D printing 😁
These little heaters are worth their weight in gold. I made a similar one when I got my printer a year ago. My printer is out in the garage - I printed throughout the winter with no problems. I'm certain this wouldn't have been possible without it. As usual, your explanations are very well articulated! Please never stop making videos!
Thanks for your input John 😁
Thanks a lot for this walk through - built it this afternoon (it works!) and will try it out in my Elegoo Jupiter tomorrow. I modified one thing: I connected the negative lead of the fan to the same position as the negative lead of the PTC heater. This way the fan only runs when the heating is on. Might mod change that if I find that this doesn't work as well.
Love your video! I will be adding this to my Christmas shopping list. However, rather than need a thermometer or device to check the temps...place the RTD into a glass of ice water. I do this quite often as an Industrial Automation Engineer. You can use a kitchen temperature device just to double check your glass of ice water. Seems like extra steps...but if you have OCD like me...make's life simple!
Once again...love your videos! This one has garnered a subscribe mate!
Thanks James, great to have you here.
That's a very clever idea... ice water, giving you 0c or 32f. Clever. Never thought of that. You've clearly got an engineer's mind 😁😁😁👍👍👍
Thank you for the detailed tutorial! I have my printers (FDM and resin, including curing station) in ventilated enclosures so I simply put an incandescent 60W light into the resin enclosure (not inside the printer cover, of course). It improved my print results for sure. I also sometimes use a small crock pot (it came with the big one to be used for melting chocolate I believe) to pre-warm the resin itself. I can somewhat control the temperature by changing the fan speed of the enclosure. I love tinkering so maybe in the future I'll try this setup. Reminds me of the time when I hooked up my wine cooler to the fermenter I had inside to control fermentation temperature :)
That's excellent thinking Sven. I've been thinking of using larger enclosure myself using a couple of 5w 220v LEDs. These give off a surprising amount of heat and would only cost me 10w and hour as opposed to 100w with this heater. The only drawback is the additional space required 😁
@@vogman Luckily I have my own office and the space available. I have my FDM and resin enclosure as well as my airbrush booth on the window side and vent everything outside. The nice thing about the light is that you can place the resin bottle close to it and it will pre-warm, too.
Just one work of caution when using LED lights. I once tried to check if I had bits floating around the resin vat after a failed print so I placed it over my LED desk lamps (5500 or 6000 K). After that, I had stuff floating around that reminded me of skin on hot milk and I'm sure that came from the LED lamp. Make sure you get LEDs that will not interfere with the resin...
Great video.
I am going to give it a try.
However I decided to print the cabinet på an filament printer. It gives me a more sturdy cabinet.
I printed one of these for my OG Photon a couple of years back.
My setup is super jank but it works well.
I actually merged the thing with a new side piece for the Photon.
So I removed one of the the orange windows and put a plastic side in that I printed with the heater fitted to it.
Very nice video, definitely useful as i'm planning to set up an enclosure with fume extraction and needed to figure out heating, putting the heater element inside the printer definitely seems like a much better idea than heating up the entire enclosure.
Should definitely be cheaper than heating the whole workspace... and better on the environment too 😁
Excellent video. Thank You. Alternatively, you could move to Texas where I'm at and enjoy a 24/7 46 Celsius HEAT box I call a garage. It does drop enough in the winter for my FDM printer to have issues though, but the winters here are relatively short and mild compared to most places. By the way, your instructions are so clear and concise even a complete novice should understand them easily. Screw Terminal A/C two wire adaptor!?!? Where has this thing been all my life!?! Buying a big pack of those!
I've been increasingly active on the resinprinting reddit page and heaters have come up quite a lot lately. Purely as a mostly plug and play alternative, I've recommended using a reptile heat pad for a passive heat source that can be mounted directly inside the printing chamber. I happen to have one from an old fermentation acceleration experiment I ran several years ago, but they can easily maintain a small, enclosed space up to 30*F over ambient depending on the size you use. My print room is also my utility room where my washer/dryer is, so when it gets cool enough to affect my print temps, I'll suddenly be urged to do laundry and run my dryer to my indoor entrapment box, but for those in other areas that may not want to fiddle with the electronics (and barring the day I don't have dirty laundry, haha) I'll be going this route myself.
I do like the work put into this solution though; good forward thinking, and having active temp control is really nice!
Tanks for the input 😁
thanks! just what I was looking for!
Thanx for the how-to!
I will consider doing something similar when I start 3D printing! :D
Take care Geoff!
Thanks Cap. Take care buddy 😁
This is great! I've been wondering how I'm going to keep printing through the winter in my garage.
I have printers in my garage too. I'll be building a few of these heaters 😁
I've been using one of these since last year and it's a fantastic and simple solution that's very easy to put together. One thing to note is the check your printer to see if there's a good magnetic mounting place, the z-arm for the Saturn is non magnetic, so I ended up printing a arm to hold it as well.
Thanks for this. Good thinking 😁
it works very well. Great Job! Thanks
Thanks for the feedback. I love mine 😁
Great video! Should have the parts coming tomorrow for my build and then my Saturn should have a nice cosy enclosure. Going to make a riser out of some 3mm foam board so I don't have to cut into my cover for cable clearance.
The riser is an excellent idea, especially the foam. That's practical thinking. I was planning on 3D printing one, but foam is quicker and easier 😁
@@vogman that was my thinking as well. The 3mm will sit perfectly in the groove for the cover and a few small pieces around the inside will make perfect lugs for the cover to locate onto. Minimum effort, maximum results 😁
This is a good idea. I was just going to buy a electric heated blanket put it over my saturn for the winter prints
I wouldn't recommend smothering the enclosure. These printers have fans, so I would block them. You can insulate the lid... but leave the base alone. But yes, this heater make things even simpler 😁
Awesome video definitely keen to see how your future prints go. Especially keen to see how it goes with siraytech castable resin
In honesty Cast has been pretty good, but of course the cooler evenings are coming in now. But yes, I've been printing at say 22C at best. It's possible that a steady 26C might give me better detail 😁
Id love to see a couple of test prints with and without the heater in winter. Would be interesting to see how dramatic the difference is.
I guess for that you'd need a consistently cold temperature.
Thanks for this VOG, i've been doing mostly 3 hr prints i achieve this by immersing the resin bottle in a pan full of hot tap water
for aboot 10 minutes then shake the bottle for aboot 2 mins then pour, but like you say winter is coming
and with windows open for ventilation the resin will soon cool so again thanks!
Warming the resin through is a great approach, but as Angus showed us, even in Australia the temperature can drop enough to spoil a print.
Great idea. Have a phenom and can only use on hot days or somewhere heated.
This should sort the problem out for you 😁
Awesome video just about to print now I have all the parts only thing is have I missed the cable sizes that are required.
Nice build had an extra one from
Making active heating for my fdm printer. Surprised new resin printers don’t have these built in. Heck might open the possibility for more industrial resins since they can require higher temps.
It surprises me too. Hopefully printer companies will take notice of this 😁
great stuff, this is what I needed
Glad I could help. Please don't forget to Tip the creator a little something. He deserves it 😁👍👍👍
great idea, i think i would just use another 4 slightly larger magnets on the outside to hold the heater, then it would be completely reversible if needed
Another fantastic how to video! I just wish I had the time to make one.
As long as your workspace stays warm, it shouldn't be a problem. But if it isn't in the mid 20's Celsius, then potentially you might not be getting all the detail out of your resin. 😁
Thanks for this walkthrough. I will make one :-) very helpful and to the point ;)
Glad it was helpful!
just got a flashforge foto 9.25 and its in my conservatory it get bloody cold in there, just managed to print the case perfectly and bought all the parts from amazon along with a 120*C fuse just in case. i fixed it in place with magnets outside the enclosure. works amazingly. thanks for the guide
Hi, could you explain where did you solder the fuse and what kind of fuse it is?
@@pabllok i soldered it into the positive wire before the heater element and slid it into some heat shrink without shrinking it and it fitted in between the heater and housing on one side, there is just enough room. i used a 133*C thermal fuse. I had also replaced all the wiring with silicone wire (14 awg)
Hello, nice video. I want to build such a heater by my own and have all parts and the casing. But do you have a good idea how to switch from the power supply unit to some kind of rechargable battery pack? I would prefer to build that heater so that it doesn't need an extra cable outside the chamber ...
Great video as always :) thanks for the tip.
Many thanks 😁
Great idea, built it and it works great. 🤩👍🖖
Nice to hear 😁
THX for the presentation however after seeing this I wonder why something like this is not part of the printers in the first place regarding that prints are so dependend on optimal temperatur when it comes to resins.
i think the prusa might have one?
Right?
Great video, thank you for putting this out. I did run into one issue that I'm not sure if you or anyone else has encountered. I'm I'm using all the same parts as outlined in this video, but it seems that as soon as the heater starts warming up, the thermostat cycles with an audible click, flashes 888 in both fields, and then resumes heating. It does this ever 2 or 3 seconds. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!
Great Video, got most of the stuff on order, however, I wondered what size fork connectors you use? I've seen 5 different sizes and didn't want to get the wrong size.
Really nice idea. I've currently got a 40W Dimplex ECOT1FT tube heater mounted on the inside of a cardboard box, with the Mars 3 inside that box; with the intention being to build a proper enclosure with insulated walls in the future. It does mean it needs to be a fair bit bigger than the printer so the lid can be lifted off (at an angle) - or just left off while printing.
As you note; the Mars 3 lid may be too small/curved to mount this smaller heater on the inside, but I suppose it should be possible make a new lid with enough space (and may even space for the little Elegoo filters).
Practical thinking 😁👍
Ah, I missed that part. Mine is a mars 3 so good to know.
I was able to add a heater to my elegoo saturn using a fermentation belt for brewing beer. I glued the belt to the vat so I'm only heating the vat not the air in the enclosure. Haven't had cold enough weather to need it yet but will be trying this winter.
Interesting idea 😁
This is pretty awesome! Might make me one once my Elegoo Jupiter shows up!
Very useful on a larger print 😁
Great video, thank you! My relay is causing the unit to turn off. Perhaps its a bad power supply providing too little current? Its the 10a 12v model but seems super lightweight and low quality?
That putty was a good stress relief... But I’d love to see you try some flexible resin 3d prints for video builds like this.
🎅🏻🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😂🍀🍀🍀😎
Realy nice video and this is great!, i would realy like to build one.. I just have one small question. Will this be sufficiant for a large volume resin printer like the M3 Max by Anycubic ?
It probably will but i just want to make sure..🙂
I live in the Netherlands, my printer is in the attic and in the winter it gets pretty cold there, apart from an electric heater i have nothing to heat that room during winter..🙈
To put it in another room is no option because my attic is my Hobbyroom (Mancave😅)
Love the video, but still confused about the wiring for the electronics. Do I need to also get a set of 12 gauge, black and red wires to connect everything to to the power supply? Just not sure how everything gets connected to the power supply.
Thanks for post will give it a try
Thanks Graham. Please Tip the designer a little something if you can. There's a lot of work gone into this design 😁
@@vogman will do as a matter of course..
Thanks Graham 👍👍👍
I'm going to try this, I'll also get a timer switch so it will switch off in time with the printer
Liked the video, thanks. May I ask what is de max safe temp?
Geoff, I love your wiring diagrams at 5:45, can I please ask what software you use for the one on the right?
Did you notice that the sonic 4K 2022 model has a similar heater now built in. Although it’s controlled via the GUI and LCD
Great video as always.
I hadn't seen that... but it doesn't surprise me that Phrozen would once again lead the way 😁😁😁
This would have been great for me to know last year but I have made a full enclosure to cover both my printers with the ridged foam insulation and I use a space heater with a thermometer build in so I just turn it on it will keep both warm and I have enough room to keep the resin bottle so if I have to add everything is at the same temperature
If you have the space, that's a excellent solution 😁
Excellent as ever. I will be making a heater now the winter is coming out of the electrical stuff I have on hand. I wonder if the temperature probe would be is best in thermal contact with the resin vat so that the temperature seen by the controller is related to the resin temperature and not just the latest puff of warm air from the heater. Eventually the enclosure would all reach the target temperature but I am sure there would be many minutes of lag if the device was sampling the air temperature, and one might start off a print with cold resin if one took the thermistor's measurement literally.
It's obvious you've given it plenty of thought. Nice one 😁
@@vogman Ah, I've been caught out before with temperature control gadgets. :)
Amazing video, thanks for the tutorial! Have ordered some parts so can't wait to put it together!
One question though, does amperage matter when dealing with power supply? I ordered a 2A just to be sure there'd be enough juice.
The power supply used is 10 ampere, not 2, so you may not have sufficient power and/or may overload the power supply.
Nice one, I've built 2 of these for my Saturn's and work great. The LCD displays are cheap though, and have stopped displaying some characters after a few months use...
Thanks Wayne. It's lucky they're cheap, but disappointing if they only last a few months... but as long as they work, that's the important thing 😁
@@vogman I might just have a bad egg, keep up the great vids! :)
@@waynekinney3358 did u buy from the links? i only post links that i buy from and i have built my share of these heaters for friends and personal use and have not gotten a lemon to date.
Even so it is chinesium so we never know what we get untill we do :)
@@X3msnake have you noticed the connection for the power adapter and the wiring for the heater getting really hot? Or is that just me? I followed the wiring diagram to the T
I've tried an enclosure hoping the ambient temp got above the minimum. It didn't so looks like this is what I need.
I'm awaiting delivery of the parts but have already printed the enclosure (FFF version). For those without metal surfaces to attach, consider that one can place matching magnets on the outside of the cover to place the device anywhere desired.
Exactly. Magnets wherever you need them. They work great 😁
This is a fantastic find and a great tutorial on it. Now all I have to do is make sure that at least one of my machines is wrapped up warm enough for Norn Iron autumn/winter to print the body then repeat three times.
Awesome video as always, keep up the good work.
Many thanks 😁
Very nice! I wonder if this could be combined into a single unit with an air filter before the fan 🤔
It could be done I'm sure 😁
That's quite nice design. At the end of last winter I already ordered some USB heater mat and it seems to get fairly warm, but I haven't tested it yet in my resinprinter enclosure. Still completely unknown if it needs fan to distribute heat or is it ok to just leave it in and wait. I think it's sufficient as volume is low, but gotta test. This definitely has the benefit of thermostat.
I guess only testing will tell 😁
I built one
It’s Great
Thanks for the feedback 😁
@VogMan Finally got all the items I need to build this for my Saturn 2, but before I go and get the cables from my local electrician shop, what type of Red/Black cables are they e.g grade, etc as I don't want to buy some that would melt e.g what do I ask for as this is not mentioned here as far as I can see cheers.
I run a dehumidifier in my print room... serves to keep room warm (85-90ºF) and humidity down around 15%
I prefer a cooler room temperature in honesty 😁
Thanks for posting this video. The other video I watched of the same design kind of skipped some of the wiring steps/explanations and even suggested using a lower amperage rating than what the heater is supposed to use.
The thing I don't like about the design is the thermostat screen being inside the printer. Not only does this prevent controlling the temperature when the cover is closed (Not a big deal really.) But on the other video I watched, the blue section of the screen disappeared due to the filtering of the plastic shield. This tells me that the blue light emitted is close enough to the UV spectrum that I worry of curing the resin. Another solution to this is to add a small flip up/down shield to the design to block the light emissions.
Hi Greg, thanks for the kind words 😁😁😁👍👍👍
Lower amps? Sounds like the guy doesn't know what he's talking about, and when you're dealing with 10 Amps, which could easily kill someone, that's very dangerous.
Interestingly I find I hardly look at the screen. I set the ideal temperature (for me 26C) and place it within the enclosure. Thereafter I just turn it on and leave it half an half. It soon gets pleasantly warm.
You should be able to see the digits through most screens. I've placed mine inside red, blue and yellow lids just to test and I could see things were active.
I hope this helps 😁
@@vogman yeah, the video maker found that the heater was not drawing anything near the rated 100 watts so he went to a 5 amp power supply. Still makes me nervous.
I'm wondering if the 100 watts is the thermal energy rating rather than the electrical rating.
Is it possible to turn the screen off without turning the heater off? It might have just been his camera, but he was using a yellow screen. The blue was still visible, but I'd estimate about 80-90% reduced through his screen.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I normally print in my garage but can't in the winter so I bring it into my kitchen, which could be risky for other people in the house. I should use some sort of heater like this.
Exactly Phil. My work room is cool in winter - not frozen up, but cool... maybe 12 - 14C on a cold day. This is half of what's needed by most resins. Last winter I had a nightmare time. This winter, with a heater, I'm getting great prints 😁
Amazing video thank you could you possibly link the power supply you use as I can't find it anywhere.
I actually purchased this one from Amazon amzn.to/3pznJup
Hello VOG! Great video. I'm having an issue with my build. The temperature controller is switching on and off when powered. I have everything that is on your bill of materials, exactly the same parts. The controller (therefore the fan and heater) power cycles about 2 times per second until the controller is on long enough to see the thermal probe. By that time the probe has far overshot the target temperature. Any ideas how to solve this? Thanks!
cool guide... bought most of the parts but what is the power supply? dont want to buy the wrong thing..
In brewing we have a heating element or pad and a temperature controller that plugs into the wall. A bit cheaper and no wiring. But it's not as keen.
If is works Casey, go for it 😁😁😁
Oh that is super useful. I don't understand why no printer manufacturers have even touched this built in or as an addon. I'd pay £99 right now for one that's designed to fit perfectly with my MonoX and I bet a whole lot of others would too. I wonder why no printers at all for resin have heaters and yet so many for FDM have heated beds? We know its necessary to print at above room temperature so heating is kinda needed. Anyway, call out to manufacturers to make something you can just slot in and go without the DIY!
RN I'm using our outdoor patio heater thing in the shed and get up to 28c ish before I'll even consider starting a print. Its made a huge difference to print reliability but I don't like to think about what that added cost of heating the entire shed is. It is nice being all warm and cosy in the shed though, so there is that plus to a bigger heating solution haha
Thanks Clay. Hopefully more printer manufacturers will listen (I believe a few already have) 😁
This is a great guide, but I wish you'd touched on how you organized and spliced the wires in a little more detail. Looking at my partially assembled unit, I'm not sure how I'm going to cram all this wiring in the tiny space behind the controller.
Ehm my mars 2 is in my shed where its bloody cold, and it doesn't fail and prints super crisp.
I use water washable resin.
will be doing this for mine :). BUT, notice the weird light anomaly, or ghost orb at around 11:25 to the left of your printer cord :) right where you say 'straight UV light'. It appears, goes in an arc angle, and vanishes.
This is very cool but I have one question, if you are using a power port on the heater why would you run the cable through the cover and then plug it into the heater. Why not just install the power port in the cover, you would get a more efficient seal, it would give you more room for the wiring within the heater body and the cover would not be tied to the cable making operation much easier.
Should the fan be pushing air out rhe front twords the display or away behind the unit
Hello I hope you can still help me with this. But where did you get those solder connectors from? And what are they rated to? As I bought some off of ebay and they didn't work once I hooked up everything. But it works fine with the screw in terminal supplied with the power pack. Then when I hooked it back up to the solder connectors it blew the control unit.