John Deere 1025R Axle Vents Deere 2038R
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Tractor Time with Tim installs a vented dipstick system on the front axle of the John Deere 1025R and 2038R which will allow the housing to breathe bi-directionally, preventing over-pressurization and vacuum conditions that might cause the seals to seep or leak.
Vented Dipstick for John Deere 1, 2 or 3 Series
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I have done front hub seals on many tractor brands Mahindra, JD, LS, NH, Kubota, and MF. If you have a leaking seal, it’s almost always a secondary failure. The wheel bearings go out and allow the hub to not run true in the housing anymore; taking out the seal. Many of these small tractors do not have big enough bearings to support the load of the front end loader.
I haven’t had a problem yet. When I purchased my 1025r from Reister and Schnell dealership in Wisconsin, the salesman explained that I should open and close the dipstick to make sure there is no pressure to save the seals. Good customer service from a reputable dealer goes a long way!
That is where I got my 1025r as well
It’s a coincidence you made this video, just yesterday I checked my front diff and there was a considerable amount of pressure when I unscrewed the dipstick
Keep an eye on those sticky pad mounts, in my experience, they will fail especially when used out side conditions. When we used them on the roof top equipment at work, we used a self tapping screw to ensure a reliable attachment.
I figured this out about 8 years ago on my 3720, I was checking the fluid level and the dipstick popped up when I unscrewed it. I took the smallest drill in the package and drilled a hole in the dipstick and stuffed cotton in the top of it. I can see this would be a much better solution.
Tim, are you sure you want to put the vent near the fan? The fan will be moving a lot of dust and water. If, the sticky pads come loose the vent and hose could fall into the fan causing issues. When the fan runs it causes a slight pressure change that could pull or push air in or out of the axle. Make a loop of the hose where you are pinching to allow it to flow freely.
Exactly what I was thinking watching this
Hi Tim, what would be really cool is if you could thread this fitting into the clean air side of the intake. That way any air drawn in to the axle would be filtered and dry. I have an episode on my KingKutter Tiller gearbox where after a day of heavy tilling a rain that night caused significant water to be drawn into the gearbox as it cooled. Made a real mess out of the oil. I would guess that you should be ok as the inside of the engine compartment should be fairly dry unless you are into washing your engine. Take Care, Jason
Could start sucking the oil out of the axle and into the engine
@@georgecostanza9387 I realize that that could be a concern, but I don't think it would. To pull oil a couple things would have to happen. 1, you would have to have other fluids be able to enter the axle housing to allow fluid to be pulled out, 2, the fluid would have to be at the top where the vent is. I just don't know if those things would happen. But you might be right. you would for sure want to put a vacuum gauge on it to be sure not too much vacuum would be applied to the axle.
Good morning TTWT community. Yes, I’ve had a front seal problem on my 1026R (yep a 1026R - predates the EPA restrictions). Nothing an $800 contribution to my local JD dealer couldn’t fix. OUCH!!! I’m going to get the OTIS and hope it helps.
I bought a new 3038e 6 years ago and had that problem within in 3 months of ownership. Dealer said they were having issues with the front seals leaking. They said they replaced the seal with a new redesigned seal that would correct the problem. Fast forward 6 years bought a 3039r Cab the dip stick for the front axle broke. Went to the dealer to order a new one and he asked me if my front seals had been leaking. I said no and he said they are seeing that issue. Guess the redesigned seal was not the answer. After seeing this video I am going to order the replacement dip stick. Thanks for the info.
Tim I have had several tractors leak not at the wheel seal on the final drive but at the seal on the knuckle where the axle joins to the final drive assembly. These axles (shared across many tractor brands) have a bad design where this seal is exposed horizonatally to all the dirt that gets kicked up when tractoring. It is only a matter of time before that dirt finds its way between the knuckle and seal surfaces and leaking ensues.
Some designs do use a cover over the seal but even these designs eventually leak as dirt gets down to the knuckle and seal surfaces over time. You can also delay the inevitable by cleaning this area regularly as well.
For me replacing these seals has become part of the tractor life. 🙂
A trick I learned from a plumber is the heat the end of the tubing with a heat gun then put the tube over the end of the oil vent on the axle. As the tubing cools it conforms to the end of the metal piece and makes a nice tight seal.
Tim after owning my 1025R since 2016 I noticed there was a leak around the right front axle. I brought into the dealer for service on the fluids. I had them look at the axle seal on the right, the gasket and ''O'' rings needed replacing. Parts and labor total cost for the axle leak $586.00 I'm on the waiting list for the venting kit ,Thanks for the video
My tractor (1025R) is at the dealership getting the seals changed right now. My left front seal (as you’re sitting on the seat) started leaking around 150 hours at approximately 4 years old. I didn’t know about the pressure buildup issue but will ask when I go back to pick my tractor up. Thanks for the video!
I've worked with several 55 series tractors with failed front axle seals. Now these tractors are much older, but I'm sure years of use without venting contributed to premature seal failure. Just ordered this for my 955. Great video.
Looks like a really nice part. The only thing I see that I don’t like is the little stick on mounts for the zip ties. I have quite a bit of experience with them at work, and they just never hold up. Especially with the environment that they are going to be used in with this product. Nice job Tim!
I didn’t use those on mine, I zipped it to the coolant expansion tank. This is how my 3033r was located. On my 2016 3032e, it wouldn’t have worked like that, because of it being located in a different location.
I had a 2016 3032e with over 1600 hours and never had a problem with the seals leaking. I worked that tractor hard to. My 4052m with over 150 hours, I never had seals leak. When I just got my 3033R, I saw people using this product and the why. I went ahead and purchased it to put on my new tractor for a just Incase thing. I hate they don’t do this just from the factory, but I would rather have it for a just Incase. Great video.
See ya in Kentucky. Replaced seals on my 790 and Friends now you got me wondering if there is a pressure buildup in them also.
My front axle seal leaked at well on my first Johnny. Dealership said it was because I was running the front assist engaged on dry pavement and would not warranty it. I know better than to do that. now I know! it was not me! thank you for taking that guilt away! Great job!
Go to a different dealer. That guy is not worthy of your business.
I have a vent on my 1025R from another manufacturer and I can say when I’m done doing a project there is dust and dirt all around the vent which I clean off every time but with saying that evidently it’s building pressure in the axle and venting if it’s attracting dirt around the vent also when I would take the factory dipstick out to check the oil it would actually pop out after the last thread obviously it was building pressure in the axle housing
Tim, My 2020 1025R leaks at the driveshaft, but only in the summer when it is really hot out and I have been pushing the tractor. I think this’ll cure that - My order should be here in a couple of days. Just the ticket!
I have wondered about not having venting on the front axle.. Great to see you at the NFMS, and enjoyed meeting several of the TTWT You tube family. Blessings to all!
Yes my 1026R has seepage from the left side hub, especially when used in the cold. I hear pressure when removing the dipstick after use. I will be ordering this product!!
Careful with those adhesive things. Used them to hang Cat5 network line and eventually feel off. Where you put that hose, if it falls off it looks like it's going right into the fan on the 1025r. I bought the one on eBay that had a one way valve.
I sure like my side covers on my Kubota. I would have been done hours ago lol.
Enjoy your content Tim and Christy
I put one on my 3046-R when I first bought it.!!! About 9 months ago no problem yet.!!! 🤞✔®️
Just did my install. Very easy install and cheap security for front axle seals.
Hey guys ,
I have tooken my dipstick out a few times and I could hear the pressure release inside the axle , I just ordered this kit after watching this , thanks guys for showing this , I believe I saved myself some downtime by doing this !
God bless guys
One dipstick is all that comes in the kit.
Makes No sense to put two in a kit. Your machine only needs one. If you think something is too expensive, don’t buy it! No one is forcing you.
@@TractorTimewithTim agreed ! And for what it may save you in the long run to protect from pressure/suction ( axle seals ) inside the front axle I believe it's a cheap investment that will save later on to be honest . And from what I seen from you Tim it looked like a well built solid manufactured upgrade!
I had my 1025r replaced and my 2038r leaked a little bit. I'll be getting one of those.
Tim I used a JD 4700 for years and never had a leak from the front seals. Since I purchased my 33R last February I’ve heard more complaints about front seals leaking. I purchased a dip stick vent a week after getting my tractor thinking it was cheap investment.
I have a 2000 vintage 4300 just about 4 yrs ago I replaced one side. Not to build up of pressure but to the fact that the seal stuck to the steel. The new seal was two pc that was able to twist as it turned. A mechanic told me to keep it over fill so they stayed lubed up.
Keep up the job job Tim and Christy.
Good to see you and Christy at the Farm Show this morning. Jim
Thanks Jim!
I haven't had mine leak yet, but I'm excited to see this option available.
I use those adhesive zip-tie pads by the handful to help keep low voltage wires organized at church. We had an installer do some work and didn't put screws in any of them. Within a year, they were all on the floor, so I put screws in all of mine. Admittedly, he likely didn't scrub with rubbing alcohol first but it will be interesting to see if yours stay in place.
Ha, I see Otis includes self tapping screws with the kit. They must not trust the adhesive either. 🙂
My 1025R would leak occasionally. I started opening the dipstick after each use to release the pressure, but got tired of that and ordered the vent which I will install today. Thanks for the video!
💥 Sometimes you just need to vent! 😂
*Keep on tractoring!*
Just experienced this for first time in 6 yrs with my 1023e. My leak was at horizontal seal. It only occurred when I left town for a few days leaving tractor outside, in sun, and record high temps in the low 90°s for several consecutive days. I lost about 6 oz. of oil. The tractor had not run in a week, but when I removed dipstick the pressure released was huge and sounded like opening a can of beer. My thought is the hot weather thinned out the already thin oil, and increased the pressure creating the perfect storm for seepage. Since, when I open the dipstick with outdoor temp at 70° there is zero pressure and zero seepage, but when outside temp gets up in the 90°s the pressure is audible with a pffffft when opening the dip and the seepage returns. Gonna buy the vent right now.
The OEM JD vented dipstick is for earlier 3-series and if I recall it is around $80 or so. Later versions of the 3-series have a vent right in the axle housing similar to what is found in the axle housing of some cars and trucks.
Leak popped up on my 4052M, heard it was a pressure issue likely from temperature swings we've had here. Thanks for the info.
Remove dipstick…see if there is pressure under it.
Hello Tim, I just got my 2023 John Deere 1025R with Mauser Cab and single point connect for the loader. I am going around and modifying stuff that JD seems to not have done wright. Example, hood release, front axle breather, etc… regarding the front axle breather, I purchased the Otis kit and installed it, like you showed us and also following Otis’s instructions. But I seam to have a kink created when the right side of the front axle goes up. This because we have to give some slack to the breather hose. I found a simple solution to this and would like to share with you and all of your followers. I just added a short length of split plastic wire protector over the hose. The kind that we use to protect wires in a car/truck and tractor. This gives just enough rigidity to the hose and prevents the kink to occur when the axles goes all the way up on the right side.
I can send you pictures to illustrate. Have a good day. Andre
Brilliant! Thanks!
I just had my left front seal replaced (2022 2025R) which was repaired under warranty. I have the vented dipstick product sitting in a box and I'll be installing it very soon :D Thanks for the how-to!
Yes, I have had this issue. On my 2210 on hot days it leaks out of drive shaft seal. I have been loosening the filler cap. Thanks for showing this.
I have a JD2305 and had my right side leak once about a year ago. So I did some research and saw where a lot of people were having the same issue. I bought the vent from JD and also the seals to replace. I replaced the vent cap first since it was easy and took just a minute to do. After replacing the cap with the vent cap I have not had an issue with seal leakage and now have seals waiting if I ever need to replace them.
I added the John Deere vent right away on my 3R. After reading post on the 3 series on FB, it seems there are a few issues with the pressure in the axle. I have noticed prior to this on my 3E, with some heavy consistent loader work, when you pull the dip stick you can hear pressure release.
Just replaced front seals yesterday on my 2018. Left side was leaking. Would leave about a dime size puddle. Decided to change both seals while doing this job. New Deere seals have a different design. I did not see anything wrong with bearings, gears or shafts. Everything looked fine, just had a seeping seal. Checked fluid level today and noticed a pressure relief sound while opening the cap, so I ordered the vented cap today.
Hi, I just ordered one. Last year I had a piece of the gasket blow out and landed on the garage floor. My left side at the steering joint. This is way cheaper than what I had to pay to fix it. Thanks I hope this will prevent it from happening again.
I have a JD Compact 4520 That showed a leak in the seal you were talking about. It showed up during the Winter here (Live in Iowa) After watching your video I decided to buy this kit and it actually fixed my leak.
That is great! Thanks for the feedback.
My 4110 leaked and had to replace the seals, and my 2025r leaked until I tightened up the ring of bolts, I definitely notice pressure build up in the front axle though when I open the dipstick, it hisses as if it’s under pressure. I’ve vented the front axle on them both. I’l likely come up with a more permanent solution. Thanks for sharing, Jeff
HI guys from Victoria Australia 🇦🇺🇦🇺 use a inline fuel filter on the end of the hose and point it downwards so water cant get into the filter . Mount it under the engine hood 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hey Tim, great video as always. Purchased my vent dipstick and got it within a week. I did the install today and all went well. Not that it is all that big of a deal but to prevent the line from kinking as the axle is up, I just put a small loop in the line to give it some movement as the axle moves and it also keeps the line up and out of the way. Also gives you some extra line if you were to rip the line off on a stick or something. Just through I would throw my 2 cents in. Keep up the great work.
Good timing, my vented dipstick will be delivered tomorrow. Thanks for the video.
Yeah my yanmar has the same style front axle and almost every time I open it you can hear the pressure, even when sitting for a while. Always wondered why it didn’t have a vent tube. That new fill cap is nice.
Edit: mine did have some light seepage, nothing that warrants replacing the seals.
My 1023E is at the dealership right now getting the seals replaced. Also, my uncle has had his seals replaced twice on his 1025r. I plan to order this device for both of us now!
Interesting.
Just had my seals replaced on the front axel on my 4066R last month. Ordered the Otis last week!
One advantage to not using a clamp is the ease of removing the hose - which you will probably need to do every time you check the oil level in the front axle.
I ordered and received this kit . I got it installed today. I love knowing I have it.
Congratulations!
I don't know if you can get it there, but on all my vehicles I clean the engine down with CRC So-Easy foaming tyre cleaner. Even after 8 years on my pickup, the dust and dirt just rinses off with a hose and the engine bay looks almost new.
It makes working on the vehicle and identifying leaks so much easier.
Hi Tim, I had a John Deere 4310 tractor that I used to move round bales of hay that had oil seal leakage at the one of the front tires. I replaced the seal myself with a hydraulic press and was not easy to do. I believe the cause of the leakage was the plastic hay twine getting wrapped around that seal so I removed the hay twine but required the seal replacement to fix.
I’ve been a John Deere tech for 12 years. We sale a lot of those tractors. A crap ton. And I’ve worked on the older models before those came out. We don’t ever have a problem with the seals due to pressure. Unless somebody over filled it. Even the bigger tractors don’t have breathers these days. The only seal problems are from neglect. Not keeping it clean of dirt and debris. Mainly baling twine or what ever else that gets wrapped around there. I will say I like that it’s a metal dipstick. We do have problems with the plastic ones breaking. Especially when they get some age on them and the tractor is not kept inside. Sun rots them. We go to check the oil level and the top snaps off.
Thanks for the feedback. Interesting that this feedback is inconsistent with the many other comments here.
Sound like a good reason to claim warranty to me. Maybe has something to do with the colder climate up your way. The failures I mean. Not the warranty claims.
And I actually did get the John Deere dipstick for mine and it was actually very expensive It was a $100 bill.
On my first 1025R I had the seal go out at the Pivot (where the wheel turns left/right). I have replaced mine with a vented dipstick.
As soon as you put the link to the zip tie holders that's where I went those are a good idea thank you
Haven’t had any leaks at the seals but there is that saying about an ounce of prevention. Have mine ordered from Kens bolt on hooks. As always, thanks for the video.
Finally. We had a seal leak and it was covered under warrantee. This was last year, I told JD I did not see a vent. Good deal.
I have a 4300 and had to replace front seals after I roaded the tractor for about 3 miles
I have 2305, that had the right front seal fail, assumed it was overloading like you did until I Sam on forums about the pressure building in the axle. Since then I reduced the problem by just ever so lightly tightening the dipstick. Always interesting to see what you thought was a one off issue happening to many people in all different circumstances. Great content as usual!
I found your video because I'm having trouble with a RK24/Yanmar tractor. I bought the tractor used a year ago with 75 hours on it. I completed the overdue 50-hour service as soon as I got it which included draining and replacing the front axle oil. I used the tractor all summer to cut my lawn. I kept it parked on my carport and never noticed any leaks. Granted, I rarely ran it in 4WD. Once the weather broke and I no longer used the tractor for lawn mowing I started using the 4WD a little more. Still, I never noticed any leaks, but no longer parking it on the carport so, who knows. This summer when I began to use it for the lawn again, I began to notice both hubs leaking. This was suspicious to me as I could see maybe one seal going bad, but not both in one season. I'm nowhere near the 300-hour suggested top off but, had to add about a quart. After asking some veteran tractor owners I landed here. I'll have to do some research to see if one of the three vented dipsticks made for J.D. will work for my RK. I doubt it, but it's worth a try. Thanks for the information.
Yea, sounds like it built up pressure. Contact Otis innovations, they may know about the RK/TYM tractor.
I would have put a loop in the top and pointed the top vent down so there would be less of a chance of water or dirt to plug end of the vent end
I’ve had this thought since I first heard about this issue, Tim. Many years ago, I owned a Suzuki atv. Suzuki had a unique solution for allowing expansion and contraction with temperature change, but we’re able to keep the dirt and water out of the axle housing. It is a bellow, part number 27491-38F00. I think it would be a great add-on for the vented dipstick.
On my jd 790 with 2850 hours I've replaced the front outer seals on the front axle 3 times, I contributed it to lifting to much with the loader, also have replaced the gearing once because of poorly machined gear.
Thanks for the scripture verse at the end Tim 👍👍👍
Thanks for the encouragement!
sold out of em!
They’ll get more. Go ahead and order. Get your spot in line.
I had a new 4710 that had a seal start leaking and when I saw that unvented axle I was like okay how’s this good? Got it fixed, Got a 4720 same way, had to replace left axle seal after a few hundred hours but out of warranty , found pressure in the axle, Deere dealer looked at me crazy when I asked about a non vented axle?? Blamed it on dirt? Im like I keep it in a heated garage and it gets washed all the time, basically it cuts grass light loader work, I fixed it myself and I’m at 1,000 hours with no issues, still get the pressure in the axle, always planned in modifying the axle with a rear end vent from a truck , I’m a 30 year Auto Diesel mechanic and almost all the axles I’ve worked on had vents, that’s a nice setup you got there, beats drilling and tapping the axle housing for screw in dedicated vent and
My 3038e has a seal leak on the left wheel, not on the outside seal, but in the top seal on the axle. The strange thing is that while checking the oil level lately, when I remove the dipstick, I hear a faint hiss of air escaping. Pretty interesting you have this video posted and I have recently encountered this issue!
Ordered mine from Ken’s Bolton Hooks shows up today. 👍
I have a 2016 1025r and only during the winter a couple years ago one side of my axle leaked a little every time I would use it to plow snow. When it warmed up outside it stopped leaking and has never leaked again since. I thought it did it because of the aluminum casting shrinking. After this show I still think the same but I think the pressure helped out. And yes I monitored the lube level all the time. Before I had the seal replaced I wanted to make sure it was bad. It wasn't bad.
I hope Otis Innovation makes one of these for kubota soon!
I worked at a dealer for 5 years. 0 replacements on 1,2,3 series. Had a large number of them in our area
on any vents, I have ever done I put an automotive in-line fuel filter on it.
Didn't even know this was a thing...thanks for educating me!
I have not had any leaking seals on my 2016 1025r but the first time I changed the front gear oil it was milky from water contamination from somewhere. Ever since I change it every year since it’s just a couple quarts and seems to be a little bit better color since then.
Morning Tim! Can’t wait to watch the video!
Hope to see you tomorrow at Louisville.
Well I'm sold on getting a vented fill cap. I went to check my axle fluid today and as I unscrewed the cap it hissed as air escaped. There was a fair amount of pressure built up.
Tim , I hate to say it , but the way you are in the woods , That ant going to last long before a stick rips
it off , Specially on the 1025R , I would check it every time you do hard work in the woods.
I have had the problem on my 1025R. I live in Arizona and in the winter it gets down below 20 yet in the summer it over 105. I notice leakage in hot weather.
I haven’t had a problem with leakage from the front axle on mine yet. Mine was purchased in 2017.
Funny moment: I thought to myself, "What's the blue x for?" Right then you explained it. I laughed out loud.
just ordered one. Thanks for this discount code.
Thanks! ...and thanks for watching!
Tim the axle seals they usually go bad after 4-5 years of use
My 2018 1025R started leaking from what I assume was that seal. Only had about 60-70 when it happened. Fixed under warranty.
Hi
Thanks for sharing that.
I just today looked at a IH 4210 with a oil leak on front axle seal.
I was researching this issue and saw your video.
This is an unvented axle.
The owner has 3 of the similar tractors. I will be looking into the best option for this setup. Only one is currently leaking.
Are you planning on revisiting the pull strength test between Johnny x and a stock Johnny?
Yes.
I am having seepage but it’s not where you showed in the video. It is seeping at the knuckle seals.
Ok. Interesting.
You can replace the top vent with a fish tank air stone and reduce the chance of sucking dust and rubbish into the hose and down to the axle housing, then the little filter in the dipstick can be saved for is the hose gets pulled off.
Highway vehicles get a diff and gearbox breathers and off road vehicles get breathers that are extended up above wheel height so if they get plunged into cold water, cool everything down and the air inside the housing contracting doesn't suck water in past the axle seals. They probably figure a small tractor won't be working hard enough for the axle to get hot enough or the altitude varying enough for breathers to be worth the effort, or its been cost driven by an accountant somewhere.
The best tool I have for cutting hoses or tubing is a Craftsman Handicutter. Not sure if it is available anymore since Sears shut the doors.
Kobalt makes an identical product (as do a few others). You are correct though, they are excellent for cleaving clean cuts on small tubing.
I just use a short scissors. Clean cuts and cheap. I don't know if this would work for anyone else though. Hope this helps. Cheers
I’m surprised they didn’t already have a vent on them. If it’s four-wheel-drive and you’re running gears in there in a sealed system it’s going to get hot and expand and then again when it cools it will create a vacuum. On most four-wheel-drive it already has event system, at least a little valve at the top, we always ran off of the valve and ran a tube up to the top of the hood and put the breather there, that way when you’re in the water it won’t be sucking water into that differential oil. The dipstick replacement is it cool idea. There doesn’t need to be a specific pressure in there at gravity and oil in around here so extending it would raise it up.
In your video you did say that there was a filter in the dipstick itself. If that’s the case then that’s already a differential breather and there shouldn’t be pressure issues because if there’s a filter that would mean that somethings traveling in and out of there which would be air so that should be your breather and it should illuminate any pressure issues unless it’s somehow clogged but it would be pretty hard to clog it enough to hold pressure. Either way relocating the top of it up under the hood is still a good idea, if you ever get that front end in water and it starts to cool it will suck water right into the deaf through that breather and contaminate your oil. It’s not likely you’re going to get to the top of your engine we know underwater. Lol
I would definitely put a clamp because right now if you hit that with branches a stick gets caught up in there it’s gonna pop that right off. The disadvantage to the system is you don’t have a filter on the bottom the filters at the top as well but I would definitely invest the $.90 in a clamp. No it could also be said that if it’s clamp down there and you get a stick jammed up in there it would be better for it easily pop off then it would be to yank and break something so either way. 😂😂
Only a filter in the new replacement dipstick.
@@TractorTimewithTim is that in a John Deere replacement or is that in the unit that you installed in the video? If John Deere is putting that in the new dipsticks then it probably was a known problem and that was their fix, if not and they don’t have a breather on their somewhere then it’s just a design flaw because if you take oil in gears and run it you’re gonna create heat and pressure and that’s gonna blow oil past the seals. Interesting, I’m glad you’re watching out, I never would’ve thought to look for anything like that.
That is the point of the entire video, Shane. The Deere dipstick has no vent.
@@TractorTimewithTim OK I completely misunderstood I thought in the video you were pointing that out. Then I would say this is definitely a great upgrade and necessary.
So i have the same issue on my 3r cab tractor. Both seals have been replaced by the dealer, an once an a while during the winter time the axle will puke a little bit of fluid out after pulling the tractor in my heated shop. Fair amount of pressure behind the dipstick, im guessing from the large temp swing.
Seems like a good concept and it definstaly doesent hurt....
2018 JD 2025R with 740 hrs... zero issues here.
🤨I put that on my 2022/3046r when I first purchased my Tractor. Never had any issues of leaking.!!! Lol yet.!!! 🤔
In lieu of a hose clamp. Throw a small zip tie around the hose if you feel it needs a tighter fit on the dipstick.