@@louisronan5903 I posted a very negative comment yesterday because I have been left with a snapped bolt inside the CV shaft end because of their duff torque settings. There's no way it will come out so I'll have to buy a new joint and have the hassle of fitting it. Why didn't they put a message on screen instead of leaving it in the comments? At 70 years old and looking after a sick wife I don't need the extra hassle.
@@peterrichardson9878 : Yeah I don’t know how they got it so monumentally wrong. Don’t worry, I had an issue this weekend just gone. I was sold 2 wish bones for my ford focus and they accidentally sold me 2 left-hand side wish bones instead of left and right and I didn’t realise until I disassembled the whole wheel assembly. They didn’t even apologies either. Anyway, I hope your wife gets better.
This is a good video, and it certainly helped me. However for the benefit of others that are considering doing it themselves, there are a few things which might help. 1) According to the Ford workshop manual, the lower ball joint nut should be renewed for safety. 2) The clearance between the lower ball joint nut and the driveshaft/CV joint is tight, hence him using a combination spanner to release it. You'll need a crows foot or some other means for attaching a torque wrench when reassembling. 3) The torque specs are mostly wrong. For instance, the strut to wheel knuckle should be 90nm, not 70nm, the caliper anchor plate bolts should be 115nm, not 65nm, and the hub retaining bolt should be 45nm + 90°, not 145nm. The latter should also be renewed as it's a stretch bolt, although this should come with the wheel bearing kit.
Am schimbat butuci cu rulmenți și mi-au rămas niște martorii în bord aprinși care ar fi cauza, până să schimb rulmenți nu aveam nici un martor aprins la bord? Care ar fi cauza.
@@autodocuk Why did you use the wrong data and didn't correct it after this user's post?! Why didn't you replace the video with the correct one, because a lot of people don't read the comments and just use your video as a repair manual!
Probably the only mechanic I've seen on you tube who knows what there doing, excellent job, I'd let you work on my car, and out of the 100's of mechanics I've worked with over the years, I can count the ones I'd let work on my car on one hand. 👍
Took my cmax to a shop in July 2020, both front wheel bearings were replaced, 7 months later the right front was bad, they replaced the bearing as warranty work. Got the car back with new bearing but a brake issue on the right front, brought the car in, they said I needed new brakes 600$, put new pads in my self, a month later same bearing went out, they claimed they hadn't worked on it, said the steering rod was loose, only 800$ to repair, again proved to them that it's a warranty work. Your video showed me how they needed to disassemble the whole spindle assembly and if something is loose there it's their fault. Thanks great work
It’s fair to say I won’t be attempting this at home then, 😅😂 Thankyou, it was a great watch and im now a little wiser as to how incredible a mechanics job is!
Thanks a lot, very well done, professsionell through! Now i know how to get off the brake caliper easy if brake disc has big rusty edge! Helmut from Austria
We cannot show all the nuances and problems during replacement, it is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend making replacements at specialized car services.
so its okie to press the wheel bearing like this!whit out the wheel bearing tool for gen 2 wheel bearings .. Nice i allmost bought this half moon tool i got press i can use so this saved me 150 euro :) thx
no its not they ae using the wrong tools that is putting load on the bearing and not the outer race when installing compleatly the wrong way to fit this bearing
@@edwinhoward-fb4zy thanks but 3 years ago hehe, i was end up useing the press tool whit bolt true hub and like 4 -5 pinns to hold the 2 plates to geter whit distands, the right tool for this kinda hubs
I just have been charged for 2 hours working fee for this service. Just out of curiosity, is that realistic or should I look for another shop to take my car the next time?
great video, but it is really annoying how bad the design of the wheel bearing fitment is. Almost no surface to hold the new bearing when pressing it in...
I just completed this job on my Volvo, which is very similar. I was concerned to see that there seems to be nothing holding the hub/bearing into the Steering Knuckle. Is the bearing being forced into this housing enough to keep the hub and therefore the wheel from coming off while driving? I know that there is the 13mm hex bolt holding the C/V axle, but I wouldn't think that would do much to hold it all together. Most older cars had some sort of axle nut that held the bearing itself. Can an expert weigh in and explain? Thanks!!
Yeah the force of the bearing into the hub is enough to hold it when pressed in properly, assuming there’s no damage to the knuckle. The 13mm is to stop the CV from coming loose on its own really.
The procedure is good, but to return the lower pivot of the arm with a leaky cuff 6:45 ? But maybe that's on purpose and another video is made about it, like replacing the front arm pin
Thank you for your attention! You are right, we made a mistake in the credits. Unfortunately, we cannot change the credits, but we will add information to the description. According to the catalog Tightening torques for transmission The Central bolt 45 Nm + 90.
Our videos are for informational purposes only. All routine replacements and values can be found directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of the auto maintenance service. AUTODOC
Our videos are for guidance only. All routine replacements and values \u200b\u200bcan be found directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of a car maintenance service. AUTODOC
⚠ Attention! The mistake was made in the video at 9:24 minutes. The tightening torque is 45 Nm, not 145 Nm. We are sorry for the inconvenience.
That's not good enough. My car wont even start now because of this.
@@louisronan5903 Isn't it funny how negative comments get instantly deleted?.......................
@@peterrichardson9878 : Do they? I didn’t notice to be honest. What’s the deal with that?
@@louisronan5903 I posted a very negative comment yesterday because I have been left with a snapped bolt inside the CV shaft end because of their duff torque settings. There's no way it will come out so I'll have to buy a new joint and have the hassle of fitting it. Why didn't they put a message on screen instead of leaving it in the comments?
At 70 years old and looking after a sick wife I don't need the extra hassle.
@@peterrichardson9878 : Yeah I don’t know how they got it so monumentally wrong. Don’t worry, I had an issue this weekend just gone. I was sold 2 wish bones for my ford focus and they accidentally sold me 2 left-hand side wish bones instead of left and right and I didn’t realise until I disassembled the whole wheel assembly. They didn’t even apologies either. Anyway, I hope your wife gets better.
Very satisfying to watch a mechanic that actually knows what he is doing. Great video
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
This is a good video, and it certainly helped me. However for the benefit of others that are considering doing it themselves, there are a few things which might help. 1) According to the Ford workshop manual, the lower ball joint nut should be renewed for safety. 2) The clearance between the lower ball joint nut and the driveshaft/CV joint is tight, hence him using a combination spanner to release it. You'll need a crows foot or some other means for attaching a torque wrench when reassembling. 3) The torque specs are mostly wrong. For instance, the strut to wheel knuckle should be 90nm, not 70nm, the caliper anchor plate bolts should be 115nm, not 65nm, and the hub retaining bolt should be 45nm + 90°, not 145nm. The latter should also be renewed as it's a stretch bolt, although this should come with the wheel bearing kit.
Thank you for your valuable clarification, this will be very useful information for our viewers.
AUTODOC
Am schimbat butuci cu rulmenți și mi-au rămas niște martorii în bord aprinși care ar fi cauza, până să schimb rulmenți nu aveam nici un martor aprins la bord? Care ar fi cauza.
@@ginelmariuspicu2630 Check ABS sensor or cable
@@matthewkuhl79 No it doesn’t.
@@autodocuk Why did you use the wrong data and didn't correct it after this user's post?! Why didn't you replace the video with the correct one, because a lot of people don't read the comments and just use your video as a repair manual!
Probably the only mechanic I've seen on you tube who knows what there doing, excellent job, I'd let you work on my car, and out of the 100's of mechanics I've worked with over the years, I can count the ones I'd let work on my car on one hand. 👍
We are glad that you enjoy our work!
Took my cmax to a shop in July 2020, both front wheel bearings were replaced, 7 months later the right front was bad, they replaced the bearing as warranty work.
Got the car back with new bearing but a brake issue on the right front, brought the car in, they said I needed new brakes 600$, put new pads in my self, a month later same bearing went out, they claimed they hadn't worked on it, said the steering rod was loose, only 800$ to repair, again proved to them that it's a warranty work. Your video showed me how they needed to disassemble the whole spindle assembly
and if something is loose there it's their fault. Thanks great work
We're glad you found this video helpful!
Please stay tuned with us.
if they reuse the hub and dont support the new bearing properly when pressing it in they can ruin the new bearing.
This video is awesome. It takes you through each professional step showing all facets on how to change a bearing on a Ford focus.
Thank you for your comment! We are pleased to know that you liked our video.
Very clear, also it saves looking up the torque settings. Thanks!
Thank you for sharing your opinion with us.
Well that was a waste of time, the bottom ball joint gaiter has split
It’s fair to say I won’t be attempting this at home then, 😅😂 Thankyou, it was a great watch and im now a little wiser as to how incredible a mechanics job is!
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
Excellent video s and done professionally well done auto doc
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
Thanks a lot, very well done, professsionell through!
Now i know how to get off the brake caliper easy if brake disc has big rusty edge! Helmut from Austria
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
I think you forgot to install the brake back plate! ;-) Excellent video!
You're supposed to stop tightening when the torque wrench clicks!
Èxcellent ,work.cheers les from Adelaide south Australia
Thank you for sharing your opinion with us.
Very helpful thanks
Yer thanks for that iv now snapped the driveshaft retaining bolt 😔 now iv got to try and extract it and buy a new bolt thanks alot
We cannot show all the nuances and problems during replacement, it is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend making replacements at specialized car services.
Awesome and well detailed video 💥💥💥💥💥💥
so its okie to press the wheel bearing like this!whit out the wheel bearing tool for gen 2 wheel bearings .. Nice i allmost bought this half moon tool i got press i can use so this saved me 150 euro :) thx
Thank you for sharing your story with us!
Stay tuned with us.
AUTODOC
no its not they ae using the wrong tools that is putting load on the bearing and not the outer race when installing compleatly the wrong way to fit this bearing
@@edwinhoward-fb4zy thanks but 3 years ago hehe, i was end up useing the press tool whit bolt true hub and like 4 -5 pinns to hold the 2 plates to geter whit distands, the right tool for this kinda hubs
Good job
Very good job mate thank you is very lelpful and izy to understand 👍
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
I just have been charged for 2 hours working fee for this service. Just out of curiosity, is that realistic or should I look for another shop to take my car the next time?
Fuck that. I'm taking it to the garege. Thanks ddo great video
same :D too mutch work and need special tools :)
great video, but it is really annoying how bad the design of the wheel bearing fitment is. Almost no surface to hold the new bearing when pressing it in...
I just completed this job on my Volvo, which is very similar. I was concerned to see that there seems to be nothing holding the hub/bearing into the Steering Knuckle. Is the bearing being forced into this housing enough to keep the hub and therefore the wheel from coming off while driving? I know that there is the 13mm hex bolt holding the C/V axle, but I wouldn't think that would do much to hold it all together. Most older cars had some sort of axle nut that held the bearing itself. Can an expert weigh in and explain? Thanks!!
We do not have such information, we recommend that you consult your mechanic.
Yeah the force of the bearing into the hub is enough to hold it when pressed in properly, assuming there’s no damage to the knuckle. The 13mm is to stop the CV from coming loose on its own really.
Let's have some perspective - what's the worst that could happen ?
What's a beautiful work excellent I hope that's the way you do it all the time a little bit of spray a little bit of clean goes a long way well done
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
thank you!!
Cheers
Good video
Is 20ton hydraulic press enough or is a bigger one needed?
You dont need one at all
Excellent
Thats going to be me tomorrow lol 😅
How much force did it take to press the bearing out?
Probably 5 or ten tonnes
The procedure is good, but to return the lower pivot of the arm with a leaky cuff 6:45 ? But maybe that's on purpose and another video is made about it, like replacing the front arm pin
Your remark is very useful for us, we will work on it.
thanks a lot
good video but why show torque settings for everything else but the wheel bearing lock bolt!
Thank you for your comment.
We try to give maximum information for all cases arising during the repair process.
AUTODOC
where could i pick up thin press plates like in the video, when pressing in new bearing?
YT-0638 YATO
For a split second i thought you were
spraying WD40 on the brake disc 😂
We used a cleaning product, you can find it at the link in the description under the video.
you forgot to hughlight the drive shaft retaining bolt torque
why is the sensor facing the abs ring backwards
Please clarify or rephrase your question.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team.
Does the tracking need doing after the job
It is not necessary to do the toe camber after these works.
AUTODOC
Good 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Do I have to go for ailments after bearing Change?
Alignment needs to be done after replacement.
AUTODOC
145Nm nagyon sok a féltengely csavarra! 45Nm még jó. Javítsátok!
Unfortunately, we do not have this information.
Please stay tuned with us and follow our tutorials.
AUTODOC
Txt Book Perfect
Where do you get your torque settings from lol
You can find this information in the technical documentation for car repair.
AUTODOC
this man is so aggressive,reminds me of my late grandfather when he's working on cars
Bloody lucky gunning those leg pinch bolts undone usually snap 🤦♂️
Thanks for your comment, we will definitely take this into account when filming new videos.
AUTODOC
That guy is in a rush
Wow, no safety clip. Easier for me😂
That's alot of copper grease on the wheel studs 😱
Thank you for your comment. Copper grease is not applied to the wheel studs.
145NM on 9mm bolt?
Thank you for your attention!
You are right, we made a mistake in the credits.
Unfortunately, we cannot change the credits, but we will add information to the description.
According to the catalog Tightening torques for transmission
The Central bolt 45 Nm + 90.
Thanks. I have a broken bolt in the driveshaft now.
yesh the correct torque spec from the ford repair manual states 45nm then 90 degrees of rotation
This last nut will broke off if you juse 145 nm.I meen the corect is 45nm+ 80 degrese turn
The case is that the tightening torque for different car models can vary greatly.
Well I guess this for video purpose build?
Lower bolt joint gaiter waisted......
Thank you for your comment!
Please contact us back and clarify your question and we will be able to help you.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Anyone got a link to that ball joint press? lol
The requested link: www.autodoc.co.uk/force/13660197?search=FORCE%20Ejector,%20ball%20joint%20%20(906T3)
AUTODOC
End shaft torque 49Nm not as you stated
Our videos are for informational purposes only.
All routine replacements and values can be found directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of the auto maintenance service.
AUTODOC
can u come and do mine lol you'll be done in half an hour
Bro didnt change the bottom ball joint, the gaiter was ripped 💀
Yes, the ball joint was not changed, you are right, it will be useful for us. Thanks for your attention.
We'll, I won't be replacing that part myself.
Our videos are for guidance only.
All routine replacements and values \u200b\u200bcan be found directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of a car maintenance service.
AUTODOC
Pretty much every torque setting is wrong in this video lol