Why are Suit Pockets so Important?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
- Hugo continues his journey into all the details of suit coats and jackets that makes a real difference in terms of style. In this new episode of Sartorial Talks he focuses solely on pockets (placement, shape, function). An element of style which is much more important than you can imagine.
This episode is dedicated to the memory of our friend Luigi Dalcuore who left us last month because of this difficult virus. Rest in peace Gigi, we will never forget you.
To support the show, please visit our Patreon page: patreon.com/sartorialtalks - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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This is the only channel in wich i would spend 18min of my life, learning about pockets.
The quality here is off the charts.
Thanks for all your work, both of you.
Thank my friend, tit's extremely encouraging for us. Cheers, Hugo
I was wondering how you'd possibly spend 18 minutes talking about pockets! But as always, I was not disappointed. Thank you for your enthusiasm and your knowledge.
Beautiful ending for the memory of Maestro Luigi “Gigi” Dalcuore. 🙏🏼
You are obsessed with pockets and we are obsessed with you, Sonya and this wonderful channel!!!
Hahaha thank you so much Mauro! Hugo & Sonya
Your channel has quickly become a favorite of mine. Always glad to see another video!
Many thanks Adam! It's very encouraging for us. Hugo
I've learned so much more about men's style from Hugo than from any other style "expert" on youtube.
That's very kind of you K! Many thanks, Hugo
Wonderful video I'm a patch pocket lover myself and requiescat in pace Luigi Dalcuore. The Italian bespoke family has lost a true master.
Yes Joey, I still can't believe this nasty virus has taken him away from us... Hugo
I am late on this video from our teacher and poet extraordinaire Mr Jacomet ; the unequivocal british or american would love how the "met" (without the letter "t" pronounced) in his name sounds from a comfortable french speaker. There is just something about french. Sir few years back i learned from PG that you are a devotee of "Réplique" (a program on France Culture radio with utterly bygone and at the same time brilliant thinker Alain Finkielkraut), i can imagine what you would sound like on the radio sir. Those who true radio listeners can understand what i mean. I also loved watching you on Eric's (New York radio host) program, i knew about him from you. Thank you for this beautiful video once again, i knew nothing or little on the subject. Cheers to you, Sonia, Greg and the whole team.
Blessings
In English, when we say "Chest" we are generally referring to the contents of it, such as your lungs and heart. When we say breast, we are typically referring to the outside of the body. You might have a chest cold, but a breast pocket.
Many thanks Jan. This is just a reminder for me that I'm just French after all 😁! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS It was certainly intended in a friendly way.
An advantage of going bespoke: I thought I preferred patch pockets, especially on sport coats. My tailor told me: You to tend to put stuff in your pockets, don’t you? Sure, I said, I even carry small books sometimes; and pockets are the very reason I wear a jacket as long as it is below 35 ℃ (being a Mathematics professor, I could wear at work a morning suit, a track suit or a skirt and people would not be too surprised). Then you should avoid patch pockets, since they are not really designed to be filled and will go out of shape easily; moreover, a flap pocket is very easy to repair.
And there is a last kind of pockets you didn’t mention: bellow pockets, which I guess would be the only ones appropriate for carrying small books. And since they might not be out of place in a tweed jacket I might sometimes get one cut for me...
Carrying books is just one of the reasons why I prefer a jacket with good size pockets, I fully understand the comment👍
Dear Ottavio, you are absolutely right, bellow pockets work well for pocket books even if, for my personal taste, I don't like the "bulky" look. But it's strictly a matter of taste. All my best, Hugo
There also exists a “Frankfurter” pocket, as we call it in german, which is basically a jetted pocket with a flap. So you can wear the flap outside as normal, but as you tuck it in it looks just like a normal jetted pocket.
Wonderful episode and a much appreciated homage to Gigi Dalcuore. I'm probably a decade away from being able to afford a proper bespoke suit so when he visited the Philippines with a trunk show, I was unable to join. I do remember seeing him perhaps 10 yards away, when I was on a taxi and we passed by the shop he was visiting. 10 yards from a legend taken away from us so soon.
dear monsieur Jacomet, like many sartorial enthusiasts, I started with a flap/besom pockets, then I love how "easy going" the patch pockets look, then I went with "triple patch" on my very first bespoke commission . Then comes the slanted flap pockets, the deeper I go the more I try to look for something more "signature."
working with the amazing team at Yeossal, we came up with my "signature pocket" which is wine glass shaped pleated patch pocket (a mouthful haha!) first bespoke commission came with triple patch pockets mentioned. my latest commission came with quadra patch haha.
One thing I find though, patch pockets have to be large enough, often times many jackets come with small patch pockets which look like "schoolboys" excuse my language.
as always, thank you for sharing with enthusiasm as always!
I enjoy these esoteric videos about suiting. These small details are the difference between "wowing" the crowd and "oh...ur wearing a suit. looks ok"
Thanks for this one!
"Balance and detail" - that says it all. Very interesting and educational. This has inspired me to use pocket design as a clue in one of my mystery novels. 😊
I feel so blessed by each segment that is produced by this channel. When you think everything has been covered. They always prove you wrong. Thank you for all you do!
We also feel so blessed Logan to receive such wonderful comments! Happy Easter. Hugo
I just love hearing Mr Hugo teach! Only if I had him as my lecturer...
The point about many pockets is fantastic. I was a frequent flyer before COVID. I always look for jackets with many pockets to put coins, passport, boarding pass, pen and cell etc. Well tailored jackets won't reveal the stuff we carry around, especially if there're a lot of pockets to distribute some of the stuff we have to carry, especially if you have to handle two carry-ons. The more luggage we have to handle, the easier it is for us to mess up. Well said, Hugo.
Who could possibly down voted this?!
Even after 25 years of enjoying and studying fashion and design, I still am fascinated by the knowledge and ideas imparted by this gentleman and his lady.
I might not utilize most of it, but I appreciate the knowledge and history, and I can use it as appropriate.
Millimeters and a few degrees changes can change the image one projected.
There are very few people that I listen to that can make me more enlightened and fulfilled afterwards.
Class and wisdom.
Very much appreciated.
Thank you so much KC for your kind and encouraging words (and don't worry for the thumb down, it's been put after 10 seconds of video. It's what we call jealousy). Cheers, Hugo
In my family we have the tradition of never putting your hands in the pocket or opening up the side pockets on a suit jacket. My father always says “it ruins the line of the suit.” (Of course the exception is if it’s casual like a sport-coat.) Sometimes it makes more sense to open them up, but the tradition!
Dear Billy, I agree with your father about the line of the suit! Cheers, Hugo
I agree as well, I usually keep my pockets basted unless I intend to use them. So usually, suit jackets stay closed but for the breast pocket (pocket square). I will open maybe one pocket on a vest, and usually both lower pockets on an overcoat, because I would sometimes keep gloves in there, or put my hands in for an especially cold day.
It is always a pleasure hearing you speak about style.
Funny when Hugo describes the inside flapped buttoned pocket as if it were a safe deposit. R.I.P. Maestro Delcuore! Merci mille fois. Amities, Moha
I love the passion you have for classic style.
Many thanks David! Hugo
you make pockets on the suit very interesting. Good video!
Many thanks Andrew. Happy Easter! Hugo
I enjoy your videos!! Not just because the detailed information but the way these facts and style suggestions are presented. Very interesting and entertaining to see over and over again. Great work here, thank you.
It's always so fun to see another notification from Sartorial Talks. Hoping the situation on mainland Europe eases with the increase in vaccine availability over the summer and you're both able to see your friends and family again soon!!
We hope so Armed. We've not been able to visit our grandsons in the USA since almost a year 😩. Cheers, Hugo
I'm so happy i found this channel. It's all really interesting
I always find I’m never disappointed for watching these videos! I’m often much more throughly educated on the finer things of classical elegance and menswear style. And to be honest, I never realized their was that much to say about the various pockets on a suit and why it is this way or that other way for pockets. Now I have clarity and understanding of it all. Bravo, bravo!
Very informative video and I love the passion in which you educate about men’s fashion. As a last note, your tie had the perfect dimple and pocket square picked up on the subtle hints of burgundy; very well put together as always!!!
Excellent. Many Thanks.
As usual a passionate and extensive explanation about something that only interests people like us.😊
Without detracting from what was said, I think that the zafari jacket had been a good example for this episode.
And in a comment not related to the topic:
In Mexico, piñatas, those sculptures that are smashed at birthdays and Christmas parties, were traditionally made with clay pots, in Italian pignatta, covered with cardboard and colored paper; now I understand the origin of the name: it is not a Spanish but an Italian etymology. These videos are really educational.
Thanks Hugo. I love the detailed cover of the pockets and each different style.
Merci Michael! Hugo
Many thanks for another excellent video! As a recent and at first skeptical convert to patch pockets on a DB suit, I now greatly appreciate the difference pockets can make. Takes the DB from more formal to casual and nonchalant style.
Absolutely Brian, path pockets are slightly more casual. All my best, Hugo
As always an excellent and informative video 👍
Very nice and informative as usual my dear Hugo, beside i really loved your outfit, specially the pocket square,Love to you& Sonya from Cairo.
omg another maze of variety, i'm not a shame to admit im making notes, once i reach my first station of my sartorial journey i will let you guys know as i promised to Sonya:) Thank you for another great one...,
U guys giving us serious amount of home work here hope you know it :)) i know i was slate to watch it again but ill do better with the next one.. Thx Hugo, Sonya i
Great stuff Hugo: informative and well-communicated. Merci, thank you, grazie, danke and any other language x
Merci Tony, grazie, thank you, danke and garcias. Hugo
Lovely video, simply thanks :)
Beautiful and informative video as always
Thank you so much Bruno. Happy Easter! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS happy Easter and God bless 🙏🏼
Wonderful explanation Hugo! Pockets for me are one of the most important parts of the jacket. Wearing mostly italian sportcoats with no linning and little or no structure here in Spain, where the weather is quite hot, I usually opt for patch pockets. Cheers to you and Sonya :)
I also love patch pockets ! Cheers my friend, Hugo
Excellent video. I always thought the ticket pocket was a left over from the days of pocket watches. Thank you for the education.
Dear friend, the pocket watches were rather tucked in the vest (waistcoat) pocket. The ticket pocket is also called the change pocket in the UK (for small coins). Cheers, Hugo
I like to put jetted pockets on black tie or evening wear, flap pockets on most suits, and patch pockets on sportcoats. Slanted pockets are a nice aesthetic touch on a suit jacket, but they do have a function! I love them on my overcoats, because it makes it more ergonomic to put your hands in the pockets to keep warm on a cold day.
Great video again! Love the history lesson
Thank you my friend! Hugo
Great video as always. While I'm rather new to menswear and haven't gone as far as looking at the pockets of my jackets and coats, this was very informative.
Thank you sir, Hugo
Thanks to Antonio from RMRS for talking about this channel. Amazing content sir!
Wonderful content as usual, Hugo! I also purchased my very first pair of bespoke shoes from Corthay today, thanks to your interview with Pierre last week. Cheers!
Congratulations Nathan. Which model did you choose? Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I went for the Arca single monk strap with gold buckle and sculpted toe. I also opted for a light tan color with one of Pierre’s beautiful hand-painted patinas.
I wonder if flap pockets might also have been a way to deter the occasional pick pocket.
Great show, as always.
Keep up the good work...You have an audience as long as I can exist.
Dear William, flaps are not efficient against pickpockets (unless they are buttoned of course). Cheers my friend, Hugo
In an interesting documentary about the Savile Road tailors they interviewed an elderly gentleman who always requested that zippers be put in his pockets, hiding them with the flaps, since he traveled a lot to developing countries and feared for the attack of pickpockets. Interestingly, the only time zippers proved to be really useful was when a pickpocket tried to rob him on the London Underground, and the only thing he took was some good batons
@@oscargustavoarcosruiz8793 Was he an orchestral conductor?
@@roberthoffhines5419 No, as I recall he was some kind of explorer looking for mineral and other resources, and he had been doing that for quite some time.
If you refer to the batons, it means that I hit the thief with his cane, maybe I did not use the correct expression 😊
@@oscargustavoarcosruiz8793 Ah, "baton" does translate to "stick" in the broadest sense in English, so you are correct!!
I love Hugo's videos.....always informative, fun and very interesting. I rarely wear suits and am going to buy a real bespoke suit from Savile Row, I would love to speak with Hugo before I do.
Sure Ian. Drop me an email at hugo@parisiangentleman.fr and I'll be happy to help. Cheers, Hugo
My wife lives in NYC at the moment and I personally like to use the ticket pocket on my jackets to store my metro card. Also, when I fly, it is a convenient place to place my boarding pass (yes I still print boarding passes. Paper doesn't run out of batteries).
Thank you Hugo.
Always great to watch.
Could you tell or show us what kind of little bags you prefer to carry with you to prevent putting things in your pocket?
Sure Phib, I'll do this in a future episode for sure. Cheers, Hugo
Great content as always. I always use the that lower hidden pocket for my cell but I was always told it was the cigarette pocket. I guess some times the world changes for the better. Cheers!
Best place to put your cigarette case. I have a few. I’ve got a goldoid ‘emu’ one which fits very well in many pockets ( in the day, it would’ve been an Everyman mid-low range) and a sterling one with my name in gold and gold lined inside. That one is a ladies one which would fit in an evening bag or miniaudiere. Case pockets are on the inside anyways
oh my, that piano song at the end was really nice
Great Style you have
Thank you Derrick! Hugo
Thank you for this amazing video, Hugo. Will you tell me more about the grey sports jacket (5th jacket in this video). Thank you for sharing.
Good morning Hugo from rather nippy new york...as always an excellent video...to my Christian brothers and sisters..happy Easter...CHEERS...
I would love a video about how to organize the things we put in pockets. If you say you try to have nothing in your pockets, I'd be very intrigued to see the solutions and hear the rationals behind the decisions. :)
I love the slant flap pocket as it takes the eye away from a waist line. Now if one has a ticket pocket, then I'd want all the pockets to be straight. I think on a tweed coat, I would want flap pockets as tweed has more of an outdoor feel to it and you don't want things falling out. Great tip on chest pocket height. SCOTTeVEST is the company that makes jackets with up to 21 pockets!
Many thanks James for your contribution. I've also seen crazy jackets with innumerable pockets at some bespoke tailors. Cheers, Hugo
Bonjour Hugo, super vidéo et quel plaisir de t'écouter en anglais! Cheers ;)
Ah merci Rudy ! Hugo
we really need an episode on trousers. It would be ınterestıng
I hope you will talk about bags sometime. Great program.
It's a good suggestion, thanks Ezra. Hugo
Hugo, there is even one more curiosity, you can integrate the chest pocket into the lapel. Search for Wolfgang Grupp. He is a well known German entrepreneur and wears jackets with that very unusual chest pocket.
Thank you again for this really lovely episode! As you opened the suit, I saw that it was fully lined. Are you always going with fully lined jackets and is there a special reason for this, like durability?
Greetings, Robert
Hello Hugo! I always keep my train pass in the chest pocket and handkerchief the inside pocket. When it's warm I keep a Japanese hand towel in the lower pockets.
Thanks my friend for your input. All my best, Hugo
Good evening Hugo.great video as always.i am a huge fan of ticket pockets and i would make a humble suggestion to you:more ticket pockets for your next suits.r.i.p maestro Gigi Dalcuore
Thank you Giannis for your suggestion. I'm not sure I will follow it though 😁😂. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS dear Hugo.we have a team in the facebook called "the klasikistes",which is greek for "the clasic men".we are afficionados of the classic wear and living.it will be a huge honour for us if you participate in our team.
I'm a huge fan of tripple patch pockets and also bellows pockets.
I understand! I'm not a big fan of bellow pockets, but they are very handy (for small notebooks for example). Cheers, Hugo
Another wonderful video! I smiled to hear Hugo's introduction, so cheerful! I do have a question (though not related to pockets). Why do most women's jackets lack a lapel buttonhole? I originally thought it was the lower construction quality of most off-the-rack women's suiting (or fewer suiting "rules" for women compared to men), but I so rarely see lapel buttonholes on women's constructions even from renowned bespoke brands, so I suppose it must have a historical reason. Cheers!
That's a good question Elsa. In my opinion it's because it was considered not very feminine to wear a carnation (or a boutonnière) back in the years. Sonya also noticed this, even with the best tailors on earth. I will investigate! Hugo
Very sad to hear about the loss of a master craftsperson at the end of the video. I feel sometimes that as the greats go, there will be no one to replace them and the art will become extinct.
Oooo, please show us your bags.
Excellent Hugo! Your passion is quite contagious! Do you think there's any place for pleated pockets on a suit? Maybe with a hard tweed? Cheers
Yes my friend of course, gusseted pockets are great on sport jackets ! Cheers, Hugo
Another great informative video Hugo, thank you for your insights. Considering the subject, I am designing an unconventional jacket and was wondering if I could send the design to you, just for a small line of feedback of a proper gentleman such as yourself. Please keep doing these videos, they inspire me every time.
Kind regards,
Matthias
Dear Matthias, you can always send an email to hugo@parisiangentleman.fr (apologies in advance if we don't answer immediately as we receive a lot of requests and messages, but we'll do our best). Cheers, Hugo
From now on, when asked "cash or card"...I will answer "dematerialized money"
Hahaha 🤣 🤪 yes, it's more funky! Hugo
So clear and insightful.
Could you tell us more about the bag(s) you use please !? I never see any bags with a suit, and most advises not to carry one with a sartorial type of clothing... but I still need to carry thing around even when I’m in a suit. In the train, the plane, or to roam in the capital with my girlfriend.
Any hints please ? :)
Thank you for the great video. Let me share with you my thoughts, don't you see in general there are a lot of pockets that may over the need of any person?
Dear Hugo, im a huge fan of both of you and your works
May i ask you a question, is this eloquence inner in you or have you trained it over the year ? If so could you do some videos about this subject, it will be very helpfull for most of your viewers (a french fan here, so sorry for my wrong english) thank you sir !
Great videos, thanks! Is there any equivalent TH-cam channel for women's shoes?
Hey, I love the colour and appearance of the fabric you are wearing in this video, can you shed any light on what it is?
Sure. It's a Super210s fabric by Piacenza in Biella. Cheers, Hugo
Let me add another pocket variation: Camps De Luca teardrop pocket
Thank you for this. Can one commission a bespoke suit with patch pockets?
Due to lockdown here in England and being unable to have a haircut my hair is almost as long as yours Hugo. I actually like it so does my partner so....I may keep my new image. Yet to wear something sartorial so I will see how I look then.
It's amazing what pickpocketters can do, do not underestimate them! they can get your watch off even if it's double connected, they can get into zipped pockets without you hearing and they can reach all the way up under your jacket and into your inside pockets if they are not buttoned!
Do you find you make yourself more of a target with your very bold sense of style?
You are probably right. Hugo
I put ticket pockets on every suit or sports jacket!
I've noticed that in overcoats such as Chesterfields there's generally an inside pocket which seems to be the perfect size for a whiskey flask. How on earth would I've noticed that?😶
Hahaha, I can relate to that (I have a Chertesfield by A.Caraceni in Milano). Cheers Henry! Hugo
I like the idea of the travel jacket, with secure pockets and maybe a lining to protect against the wind, but which is light enough to walk in all day long…does such a jacket exist in a sport coat design?
Sorry about your friend. What is the name of the piano piece? It’s a nice tribute. Thanks.
RIP to maestro Luigi 🙏🏼
😔😔😢
Hello Mr. Jacomet. In this difficults times due to Covid-19 and travelling it is so difficult to get to saville row, to italy or even Paris. Where do you recomend me to buy a suit in Denmark?
I have always wondered what is the triangular shaped flap that in the inner pocket of a suit jacket is meant for. I cannot find any answer anywhere, including my tailor 😅
Great video, but I have this question: you said that you try to put anything in your suit pockets, but nowadays we have smartphones, wallet, glasses, car key, home keys, etc. Where do you put all this stuffs. Did you make a video on this topic?
Hugo, is there any way an inside pocket can be constructed to enable a phone to be carried without disrupting the line of the jacket? Here in the U.K. it is regarded as a bit feminine for a man to carry a small bag (and I would probably lose the bag anyway if I put it down!) but the modern mobile phone is so essential and is replacing the traditional wallet, yet it is still a fairly heavy item which often pulls the jacket out of line.
Hugo, would you consider talking about headwear in a video? I would love to hear your thoughts on flat caps and fedoras and such.
Good evening, Sonya recorded a full episode on hats. Stay tuned! Happy Easter, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Good evening, to you too. That's wonderful news. As always, thank you very much. Warm greetings to Sonya, from Rome !
Does anyone know where unabridged versions of Hugo's books can be purchased? (Not the compact edition)
Dear Connor, unfortunately the original (full size) versions of my first two books (the Parisian Gentleman and the Italian Gentleman) are sold out since years (after both being reprinted twice). My publisher Thames & Hudson decided to reprint both of them in compact versions (with are still of respectable sizes, but as spectacular as the original ones). Cheers, Hugo
I wanted to ask this question on you french channel but it's here that you're talking about jackets. So: Une fente, deux fentes, ou sans fente?
Who else believed the ticket pocket was meant specifically for opera or theater tickets?
I have a question! Can you carry stuff in the jacket pocket or is is just for show?
Yes of course you can (even if in my case I prefer carrying a briefcase). Cheers, Hugo
I am left handed. Would it be wrong to have the inside jacket pockets reversed, so it is more comfortable to reach in with my left hand?
I so wish I could be like you sir and not use my pockets but I assure you that every single pocket gets used.
My question to you. , trousers tend to have a smaller pocket sown into the right front pocket. WhAt was the initial purpose of that pocket? Thank you
Dear James, it's what we call a "secret pocket" or a "ticket pocket" used to carry small coins or small tickets. Cheers, Hugo
When will a designer / tailor include a cell phone pocket?
Please do an episode on the position of the 1st button of a 2 button single breasted suit and also on the curve of the lapels.
@2:33 must’ve hurt deep inside saying that 😂😂
Not really Lewis. I love Brits (except the rugby team 😱). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I appreciate that in videos discussing the origin of the modern suit you reference the UK. There was a video a long time ago where you said that the French pride themselves on claiming to invent everything but the modern suit you had to cede it as being British 😆
@@lewishorsman2219 Yes my friend, the truth is the truth! Happy Easter, Hugo
гениально
Большое Вам спасибо! Hugo