What is your favorite style ? The importance of the shoulder
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2021
- In this new episode of Sartorial Talks, Hugo Jacomet explains the importance of the shoulder construction in the overall style of your jackets and suits. From the strong Parisian shoulder to the ultra soft Neapolitan shoulder, he invites you on another journey into the mesmerising world of bespoke tailoring with Maestros like Lorenzo Cifonelli, Gaetano Aloisio, Nunzio Pirozzi and Luigi Dalcuore.
- แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
As a British bloke, I love the structured British shoulder and fit - it's like wearing a suit of armour. I also like the whole spectrum: French, to Northern Italy, to Neapolitan. Its a privilege to be able to watch your videos and embrace the aesthetic of so many approaches to men's suits.
Thanks
Tony
Thank you so much Tony for your encouragements ! Means a lot to us. Hugo & Sonya
Hugo, educating us about all this small details that make the sartorial world this amazing hiding gem that we need to keep alive!
Yes Alejandro, in this world where comfort reigns supremer (at the expense of style and class), we need to protect and promote elegance and craftsmanship. Cheers, Hugo
I am totally impressed how you can talk for so long... with no missteps and no obvious video edits. And English is not even your mother tongue. Félicitations!
Ah thank you so much. My English is far from being perfect (same for my flow), but I do my best! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I think it speaks to your wealth of knowledge and your mastery of the subject. It's a pleasure to listen to you.
Hah! A delicious lesson Hugo. Your. Knowledge knows no bounds.
Thanks my friend ! Hugo
I love the softer shoulder as mine are thicker/wider due to being in sports. The minute I was introduced to a very soft, lightly padded, or natural shoulder it’s all I have gotten since. When I was younger the structure shoulder made me feel like I had football pads on and I didn’t like the look. Love how you go down the route and explain what’s best for what build.
As usual Monsieur Jacomet, Seventeen minutes and twenty-four seconds of pure culture. Thank you. To understand your clothing is to understand your body. I might not have many suits but I am getting better at observing those who do and now secretly know if they are aware of their own style. A delightful and stylish secret. lol.
Thanks Wayne, and may I add, to understand your clothing is to understand your body, and maybe also your spirit ! Best, Hugo
The shoulder of Cifonelli is a work of art!
Yes sir, I agree, an actual work of art. Cheers, Hugo
I will never tire of listening to these lessons in elegance and style, my respects Hugo
How wonderful, thank you Miguel. Hugo
Thank you for another lesson on a suit detail and how it matters. I always your gems a day or two so I can see them without any distraction.
Thank you sir! Hugo
Watching a Sartorial Talks video is always good for you.
Good point made on the roman shoulder: I have a vintage Brioni blazer (from back in the day when Brioni produced impeccable quality...) that features very much the same kind of shoulder silhouette as Maestro Aloisio's piece. Nicely pointed out, Hugo!
I would like to add that (as you know) some brits rival Cifonelli in terms of "shoulder drama". I'm referring - of course - to Sexton and Chittleborough & Morgan.
Great video, Hugo! Cheers!
Good point my friend. I would add Michael Browne (who has been trained at Joe Morgan, all of them from the Nutter/Sexton tribe). Cheers, Hugo
This video is so cool. The shoulders give personality to the jacket and to the person wearing it. Very interesting and useful information.
Cheers for clearing that up Hugo 👔
Hugo and Sonya, amazingly clear education on shoulders of jackets. Typical of you, with clarity and positivity, magical lesson. Thank you! Bart
Many thanks Bart, you're very kind ! Hugo & Sonya
Recently found your channel, and my wife and I can’t stop watching every video. thank you so much for this lovely information!
Many thanks Kyle! By the way if you want more content, you should check our Patreon page (patreon/sartorialtalks). Best ! Hugo
Thank you so much Hugo for another beautifully crafted episode! I treasure every single one of them!!
You're very kind, thank you so much, Hugo
Tailoring is truly an art form. Thank you for explaining the finer, more sophisticated aspects.
Pleasure William and glad you're watching. Thanks, Hugo
Love the Pirozzi suit !
Hugo once more makes a selfless contribution to style essence motivated by his genuine love of it all ! Congratulations!
Many thanks Nick ! All my best, Hugo
Here I am looking for suit style inspiration. BOOM. Sartorial talks insta upload. Perfect.
edit: Just finished. Excellent talk. Thank you, Hugo!
Boom ! Thank you my friend, Hugo
I was just thinking that It has been a while since the last episode and here I am making my week amazing with this new episode. Thank you so much Hugo and Sonia for the content. As always amazing.
Merci Byron, and sorry for the delay, but with Covid our production planning is still difficult to organise. But it's getting better! Best, Hugo
French shoulder is my fav, so elegant and sophisticated 🇫🇷
And makes a memorable statement every time. Hugo
I love your work.
Many thanks. Hugo
I can't believe i spent 17 min of my life listening about suit shoulders, but it was very informative and entertaining :)
😂😂 I can relate to that Lucius! I can't believe I spent 17 minutes speaking about shoulders 😅! Cheers, Hugo
When Hugo described the Italian style I thought immediately of the classic Armani look which became popular in the 80s.
Very interesting! I've been thinking about how the shoulders on my jackets were affecting the look, but couldn't really put my finger on why I liked one type of shoulder over the other. Now it all makes sense. Thank you, Monsieur Jacomet!
My pleasure and thanks for watching. Hugo
Sir, I think you are one of the best well dressed man in the world.
Congratulations for the good taste!
Thank you Luciano! This is probably an overstatement, but I appreciate your enthusiasm. You're very kind with me. Best regards, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Sri It is not an overstatement and you are welcome
Great video!
Even though I'm on the leaner side, I find that a bit of shirring can add some nice dimension to the shoulder. This effect works especially well with a DB Glencheck jacket.
I agree Brian, shirring is an interesting feature indeed! Cheers, Hugo
Wonderful mix of sartorial and geographic education. I really learned a great deal.
This helps me so much. From the Philippines and I've been getting my suits tailored. I always had a problem with how certain shops made the shoulder. Thanks much!
You are the best Hugo. All other classic men’s style channels should watch and be inspired from you 😄🤗
Your jacket sleaves are exactly how I love mine. Thank you for great content - please do more of these where we can see more of your bespoke suits 🙏🏼
You're very kind my friend, Cheers, Hugo
Thanks Hugo, an very interesting episode. The Dalcuore shoulder is an absolute dream and inspiration. And what a lovely cloth!
Thank you Paul. The fabric is from Will Bill (heavy wool but beautiful). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Merci Hugo!
Hugo, thank you for the excellent tutorial. I was actually taking notes and appreciate your succinct description of each style. Enjoy your summer!
Thank you for this kind reply, Tony. Hugo
When I first found this channel I was just stepping in the world of fashion and suits and you have taken me a to whole new level. Your knowledge is priceless!! Thank you Hugo !!! 😋😋
You are very welcome Shreshth! Hugo
Excellent explanation. It was so helpful to see all the shoulders and have you walk through the differences. When seeing them independently, those of us less knowledgable may not notice the differences.
Many thanks Jan, I'm happy to read it's helpful ! All the best, Hugo
One of your best videos ever , thanks a lot.
Nice to know, thanks ! Hugo
You just keep finding great material for us!
Thank you David for your message of encouragement. Cheers, Hugo
This is a great video. It really covered many questions I had and embraces the complexity of the subject 👏
I had a suit coat made for me while in Asia. It was a pagoda shoulder or roped shoulder. I wasn't so sure I was happy with it but after watching this presentation I feel a little more at ease about. I enjoyed your explanation of Suit shoulders
Thank you for this overview of jacket shoulder styles. Your passion for style and elegance always comes through. Amazing content!
Many thanks Kyle, all the best, Hugo & Sonya
I've been watching a lot of videos about suits lately because I've always suffered from "suit blindness" (all suits look the same to me) and I've only just realised that none of my jackets really fit me properly. I thoroughly enjoyed this video and I came away feeling like I understand a whole lot more than I did before I watched it.
Perfect! Such passion and breadth of knowledge. Your enthusiasm is contageous, Hugo. Keep up the good work! Cheers, Sander.
Many thanks Sander! Cheers, Hugo
thanks. valuable find
I almost always gravitate towards spalla camicia or any soft shoulder as it goes with my Greek personality, laid back and casual, but my appreciation for the Parisian shoulder has grown strong and I hope to have at least one jacket with those amazing shoulders.
Amazing as always, Hugo and Sonya! Shoulders are my favorite thing to talk about in jackets aside from lapels, and no one could explain it better than you!
You're very kind Demetrios, thank you for your message. As you may know or not, our co-producer Kosmas is from Athens! Best regards, Hugo
Anything suit, shoes, ties, etc etc etc……. Sartorial Talks is the go to learn and comfirm style.
In this case I lean more towards the English style. Structured yet reserved. But I think the Naples style is worth a try.
Thanks Michael ! Cheers, Hugo
Great content as usual, THX!
Thank you Bernd! Hugo
The shirt collar at 5:34 makes quite the statement! Beautifully executed style.
Much appreciated Simon. Hugo
Superb little introduction! Wonderful stuff!
Thank you Benjamin! Hugo
LOVE this video! Thanks for explaining all of this info. When I was a teenager, I remember the TV Show "Miami Vice". It had very fashionable and casual men's clothes. They were not bespoke but still beautiful. I watched that show for the clothes! You could definitely see the Italian shoulder style influence in them. I always wondered when I traveled later in life through Europe. I LOVE the French style as it looks strong and is so unique from the British and Italian shoulders. I could not put my finger on the differences until this video which has made it so clear. THANK YOU!!!
You are very welcome my friend ! All my best, Hugo
Thanks for these detailed episodes. The shoulders are very important and interesting. My first suit was a British style suit and I thought they had the most structured shoulders. Very interesting to see the Parisian style shoulders. They certainly do look powerful.
Yes Michael, the French shoulders are very strong for sure ! You can notice them from far away. All my best, Hugo
Thanks Hugo, so interesting. I’m just about to order a new jacket and I know how to articulate a more casual ‘look’. It’s the shoulder.
Thanks Jason, Happy to read this has been useful to you ! Best, Hugo
Excellent tutorial and video ….delivered with passion by a person who really knows the subject…..thank you.
I appreciate your words ! Hugo
You look Spectacular like always! Love your suit!
Thank you so much! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS You're welcome!
Bonjour Hugo! I hit like before even watching!
You are living dangerously Greg 😂😁! Warm regards, Hugo
Best style channel on the internet
Thank you so much (even if there are other great channels out there). Hugo & Sonya
Great video. I believe that Neapolitan shoulders can also work for most skinny people. Southern Italian men and the Japanese are very fond of Neapolitan style are not broad shouldered people. The Japanese brand Ring Jacket can be instructive at this point. Also the Neapolitan shoulder are often much wider than your usual standard jacket. For me it's Neapolitan shoulders for this dressed down world or no jacket at all.
I agree with you, the Japanese are especially fond of the sloppy shoulder style. And by the way Ring Jacket is an excellent brand I discovered many years ago through our friends at The Armoury in Hong Kong. Cheers! Hugo
Excellent and very useful information my dear Hugo, Thank you so much my friend , and your outfit is extremely elegant ,,stay save, Love to you and Sonya from Cairo.
Thank you Nader, all my best, Hugo
I love the Neapolitan style as someone who has strong bulky shoulders.
Thank you sir 😍🙏
I just ordered my first Made to Measure suit last week. Your advices are fabulous. Without them I would probably have gone with a suit off the shelf, which again would not have brought me lasting pleasure.
I totally appreciate your channel. But somehow I'm still not getting over the episode where glasses made of turtle shells were glorified. Responsibility is probably a topic that I would enjoy to discuss with you.
I hope you stay well and continue with this channel for a long, long time!
Robert
Dear Robert, congratulations for your first custom suit ! Concerning the turtle shell glasses, I'm sure you understand that the stock used by Bonnet is an old stock from before 1973 (the Convention of Washington). And don't misunderstand us : we don't glorify the commerce of turtles shells (which is an abomination), we just explain the incredible properties of this material. All my best, Hugo
Hugo u are good sweet talker with humour yes u are saying the difference very interesting keep it up 👍
Grazie ! Hugo
Love the low cut of the vest
Merci Stefano! Hugo
Good evening dear Hugo.personally i am a musclular guy but i REALLY love strong shoulders(big fan of Cifonelly shoulder),so its a matter of personal taste(for me).great video as always.
P.si really LOVE the suit that you wear!
Express yourself as you please, Giannis! Thanks for being here. Hugo
I am a new to your channel, I wish I were subscribed a long time ago to your esteemed channel. I love the details you said, much respect
Wonderful message, thanks a lot! Hugo
Very good explaining the different sartorial styles, I personally love the Italian Neapolitan shoulder being on the west coast in Los Angeles.
A great reply to read, thanks very much. Hugo
This is my favorite video so far...very easy to understand and yet very informative.
Happy to get feedback like this Anthony. Thank you so much, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hugo, I bought 2 pairs of shoes from Septieme Largeur in Paris. I really like them. Do you have an opinion of their shoes?
@@MrAramsey4979 I would 100 percent endorse SL Paris. Fantastic value. Hugo
@@MrAramsey4979 Excellent brand !
I was just saying, 2 min ago, it has been a while since Hugo made a video
Yes Michael, but we have some good episodes coming for you !
I love the technical aspects of shoulders and how they can transform the look of a suit in these small details.
I have missed watching and listening to you, Hugo, Sonya, please keep them coming.
Yes Alexander, we know we've been late, but Covid is still putting a mess in our production planning. But as things are loosening little by little, we'll be back to our production rhythm soon ! All our best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS all I can say is I hope you enjoyed getting back into Paris and seeing your family and friends. Can't wait till the next installment.
Great video as always! Might have my tailor friend make me a jacket in a few months. I think the strong Parisian style would look nice.
Great news and hope you did it. Cheers ! Hugo
I have extremely broad shoulders while the rest of me is quite narrow. I've always been a fan of the highly structured look but traditional structured shoulders with all that padding make me look like an American football player 😂
It took some years of experimentation, and having a patient tailor who gets excited at a good challenge, but we eventually figured out that no pads + significant roping in the shoulder head looks quite elegant on me. Not only that, but I get a lot of that ease of movement and flow as with Neapolitan shoulders without having to give up the martial form I like so much. It's been my go-to style for formal jackets for many years now!
Thank you so much for sharing your experience. Very appreciated ! Hugo
its interesting how much the shoulder construction/style effects the presence of the jacket. I was surprised how much the Parisienne shoulder comes alive when you move.
Indeed James, the shoulder is where the jacket "speaks" ! Cheers, Hugo
Loved this video!
Would love to learn more about fabric weaves and "high twist" etc!
Also if separates are more applicable and wearable now vs full suits given the more casual world.
Excellent suggestions Sonny ! Cheers, Hugo
Very informative
Many thanks Michael ! Hugo
The Roman n Naples shoulders are my fav
Solid choice! Hugo
Great video and detailed knowledge about tailoring. I have a question. Is it possible to change the shoulder style in already existed jacket? From Neapolitan to British in particular.
Thank you! I learned a lot about the shoulders. I couldn't understand why the sleeves sometimes go up, I thought bad work. Haha
I can relate to this Davide 😂 ! Cheers Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS :)
Thank you Hugo for another excellent video full of knowledge and passion - we are lucky to have you!
I would be interested to know your thoughts on Milanese shoulders and whether you feel Milan has its own characteristic should or not.
Best of wishes to you and Sonia.
Dear friend, Milanese tailoring surely has its own style (with great tailoring powerhouses like A.Caraceni for example). The local shoulders are in between British and Roman. Structured for sure, but still with an Italian flair of relative softness. Best regards, Hugo
excellente , i need to voyage to Napoli
You'll love it I'm sure ! Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, it would be great if you also could show the shoulders from the inner side. Thanks a lot for the information!
Good evening George, I'm afraid shoulders from the inside are not very telegenic 😅 ! Cheers, Hugo
I have been binge watching your videos, amazing stuff! What’s the name of the Neapolitan tailor you mention in the video?
Dear Nakort, I mention two Neapolitan tailors : Domenico and Nunzio Pirozzi and Luigi Dalcuore (who unfortunately passed away a few months ago because of Covid). Best ! Hugo
Thanks.
Pleasure ! Hugo
I am broad from weights and martial arts. I find strong structured shoulders dimple and deform when I move. As such I prefer the softer Italian style. It compliments may frame and flows with my physique.
I would say you've made a wise choice Mr. L. Cheers ! Hugo
It would be great to see a video on work wear. As in practical work like dog walking, hunting or something where you can get a little dirty but still want to look sharp
I'm not sure I can say anything legit on this (as I don't have a dog and I don't hunt 😁), but that's a very good topic idea for sure. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo! Thank you for great video! What shirt are you wearing, if it is not a secret? I admire your shirt collar. Cheers!
Hugo, who is the maker of your tie in this video? Very stylish, very elegant look (as always).
The shoulder is so important that whatever suit you purchase, off the rack, MTM or bespoke, if it does not fit at the shoulders the suit will never be correct! Never overlook the shoulder fitment, it is essential !
You are absolutely right ! Best, Hugo
I like your high quality content! Keep going...
Have you ever considered the topic of leather jackets for the gentleman?
Not really for the moment my friend, but why not ! Hugo
♥️♥️♥️
Look like a superhero who’s about to remove his suit. Hahahahaaa… That’s a good one!
Hello Mr Hugo and Mrs Sonya, love the videos. Recently I have noticed a trend for 3 piece suit. I was wondering if you could make an episode on the height of the waistcoat. In this video Mr Hugo is looking very elegant, as his waistcoat is not very distracting. On the other hand I have some waistcoats that start very high. Your reply will be highly appreciated.
Cheers.
Dear friend, the height of the waistcoat is strictly a matter of taste. Most of the time, double breasted waistcoats are lower than single breasted (for obvious reasons as this would add way too much fabric too high on the body). Personally I like my waistcoats to be on the lower side in order to remain discreet and not visually overwhelming. But once again, it's a matter of taste (and of tailoring style). All my very best, Hugo
I always preferred either a French shoulder or a equivalent from Britain from the likes of Edward Sexton, Chittleborough & Morgan or Michael Browne... Next would be something from F Caraceni, so a very strong Milanese Shoulder or a Roman from Ripense
Henry, in my opinion you cannot go wrong with any of these great names. Cheers, Hugo
From a woman’s perspective whether it be a 2 piece or 3 piece suit it would make the man ‘stand out in a crowd’
The style, elegance and formality of the suit and more importantly the shoulder detail can add to the man’s physique and personal choice that would make him ‘stand out in a crowd’ even more
Wise words Joanne. Many thanks, Hugo
Hello Hugo I loved this video it made me think about my suits I love the outfit I have to get a rust pocket square. I wanted to ask you a question if u owned a double breasted navy pinstripe suit and a plain navy 3 piece suit and had the choice between a navy 3 piece pinstripe suit and a charcoal grey 3 piece chalk strip suit which one would you pick?
Well in my personal experience I chose the navy three-piece. Cheers ! Hugo
I'm in Rome and I hate the roman shoulder, mind you. Although it may have to do with the fact that in my mind heavy padded shoulders are one of the typical clear signs of cheap suit jackets, which particularly in combination with the ever-too-low cut armholes make you look like your arms spring out from your side ribs rather than your shoulder.
Also, in the summer Roma is just as hot as Napoli (above 30C in the day, peaks of around 37C), so I really don't get why one would want all that padding ever. In fact, in the summer I can barely survive a long sleeve linen shirt rolled up, let alone a structured jacket. And it's not like our winters are particularly cold, you can barely wear a light overcoat for 3 months, probably no more than 1 for a heavy coat, in january. Which is something that saddens me as I love overcoats.
I hear you, even if the word "hate" is not our favorite here (let's say "dislike", much better). But the suits you talk about (heavy padding, low armhole) are not the ones we talk about here. A real Roman shoulder is structured yet very light in comparison with French and British shoulders. Maybe you live on the wrong country 😊😁? You should live in Scandinavia or Scotland if you love your overcoats. Best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS i'm sure any bespoke is much better than those, but you know, the mental image is tainted ahah. But yes, I would definitely prefer a colder climate overall.
Maybe you could do some content about online made to measure. Maybe you can recommend shirt or suit brands. Ah and thank you for your great content. Greates from Germany
Yes Lenni, we'll do this soon. All the best, Hugo
Thank you so much
Amazing! Thank you so much! I have a whole new appreciation for clothing. Is it okay to wear an unstructured Neapolitan shoulder suit to an interview? Are there certain industries besides banking where you would suggest a more structured shoulder?
Thank you and these days, wearing any good suit (any shoulder) to an interview is a minor miracle and if not appreciated by the enterprise, not sure I'd want to work there anyway, haha. Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Haha thank you!
Im making a fully bespoke tuxedo. Would the Roman shoulder be OK for a tuxedo jacket? (I have fairly built shoulders)
Hello Hugo,
Could you make a video for the average viewer to better understand different silhouettes of the suit and what makes the suit look good and what doesn't? Most of your tailoring is bespoke and excellently made but would be nice to see a comparison video where you take maybe a cheap suit, a decent RTW like Spier & Mackay or Suitsupply (Piniparma) and compare it to bespoke while all being similar style (italian, english etc...).
I think the average viewer would benefit from understanding what makes a suit look good. Maybe even going further to maybe talking about the size of lapels, length etc.. what a certain customer should favour for looking at his body shape or height. I know gentleman's gazette has done some videos, but would be interesting to see your point of view as you have a lot of experience in bespoke.
All the best,
Jan
A tiered approach to specific genres of tailoring is a great idea. Thanks Jan ! Hugo
Hugo I'm a huge fan of your channel! Keep em coming. I have a question? Why are the collars on your shirts so wide? I do not like this new style. I prefer slim tight collars close to the tie knot. What do you think. I like Japanese men's dress shirt collars the most.
Hi Jerry, Normally to preserve the flow of your suit (as the collar is next to the face), a wider collar has a smooth look because it fits under the jacket lapel. A smaller collar can be elegant if it "sticks to the shirt" with a hidden under button or a collar pin. Cheers, Hugo
Excellent video, Richard Anderson former head cutter at Huntsman & trained by Master Colin Hammick said ‘it’s all about the shoulder’ get the shoulder wrong and the whole suit is wrong 👍
Yes Ian everything drapes from the shoulders and Richard Anderson is a solid source---we know him well. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I love your videos