My Collection of Overcoats
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ต.ค. 2019
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I'll bet when Hugo dashes out to buy a baguette he dresses better than I did at my wedding!
Hahaha, I'm not sure ! It depends if I just roll out of bed or not ! Hugo
Wasa Bista Congratulations on your well deserved 70th like!
@@carltrotter7622 Thank you sir! And my parents said I'd never amount to anything. Who's laughing now?
He probably dresses better to sleep than most dress in their own weddings!
Hugo Jacomet is the epitomy of a gentleman. He is realy passionate about what he does and you can realy learn a lot from him. Thank you, Hugo. Wonderful collection.
Many thanks Krunoslav ! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Always. Cheers!
@TomásP LOL
@TomásP Tito was anti-Stalinist and Yugoslavia was the most liberal "commie" country ever. The entire Eastern Europe was under the Iron Curtain while yugoslavs were the only people in the world who could travel both east and west
Just imagine to have him as your uncle. That would have been awesome.
To me, autumn is the perfect fashion season for men. It's cold enough to layer waistcoat and suit and top it with a nice overcoat - yet not too freezing so you don't have to button up too much. Great video :)
I agree 100% Sebastian. Autumn is the best season for many things! Hugo
It´s my birthday in 20 minutes, best present I could receive - cheers!
Happy birthday my friend ! Hugo
Chaval Mexicano happy birthday 🥳
That suit, tie, and pocket square combination is damn beautiful. The stripes on that suit really command visual attention in a very good way.
Thank you sir. Hugo
This has to be my new favorite channel on TH-cam. Just listening to Hugo and Sonya’s expertise is somehow very relaxing as well as educational. Both of them are so comfortable in front of the camera it’s like we’re having a conversation haha
Thank you so much for your words of encouragement. We do want to give this channel a different spirit and its own personality. Many thanks for your support! Hugo & Sonya
Fantastic video Hugo! I'm in the men's wear line of work and often share a lot of the information you provide with many of my customers to help them understand the Sartorial world a little bit more. Would you ever consider making a video about the wool-making houses of Italy, such as VBC, Loro Piana, Zegna, etc? I, personally, would thoroughly enjoy to learn more about them. Thanks for the content!
Dear René, it's a good idea even if I dedicated a full chapter on the "Lanificios" in my book "The Italian Gentleman" with VBC, Drago, Zegna, Piacenza and the likes featured with great photos and detailed history. Best! Hugo
All of them are beautiful masterpieces. Thank you Hugo!
The Caraceni chevron coat is my favorite, very elegant and unique.
It's also the favourite of my beloved wife Sonya! Best, Hugo
Thank you for sharing this in so much detail. For people like me who have few opportunities to actually talk to professionals at stores about materials and construction as well as patterns, it's great to have such a comprehensive resource to refer to. Great starting point because custom tailoring is kind of closed door. Of you want to know anything about it, the best and often only way is to talk to a custom tailor. Even fabrics can be hard to find online with some mills only offering to tailors directly.
Your experiences are big portion of inspiration for me. I simply love sartorial talks. It is my favourite ritual to watch and enjoy a cup of tea. 😊
Thank you Tomas for your kind words ! Cheers, Hugo
What an amazing man! Can’t wait for your videos to be released. You’re a true gentleman!
Oh thank you my friend for your kind words of encouragement. Hugo
I thought I was elegant until i started watching Hugo. Thanks for the video. Please could you do a video covering your accessories.?
This video is a true gem for the sartorial gentleman, excellent job Hugo :)
All your overcoats are extremely handsome but the cut of the Caraceni Chesterfield coat was absolutely the most beautifully cut to my eyes. Perfection.
Thank you Martin, it's also the favorite of my beloved wife Sonya. Cheers, Hugo
Thank you for the video Hugo. If there is a piece of clothing I love almost as much as shoes, it's an overcoat. Very inspirational.
Merci Patrick !! Hugo
Hugo you are truly an inspiration, your passion is evident in the way you present. I could listen to you for hours. You and Sonia are such a fantastic couple. I’ve recently subscribed and looking forward to all the great info. Thank you so much.
As always, I love listening to your advice.
Many thanks Tom ! Hugo
Very interesting my dear Hugo, and lovely collection with bold colors, you are always standing out with your style ,love to you from Cairo,
Thank you so much my friend ! Always a joy to read your comments. Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS you are welcome my dear,its always a joy for me too to watch your videos , my regards to dear Sonya.
Oh my, so sweet to hear you talk about Caraceni and then find your words and signature on their guest book, that little sprinkle of "reality" that makes your videos even more enjoyable :)
Thank you Sir, and I'm honoured to be featured in this Guest Book. Best, Hugo
Excellent choice of styles and colors, specially the chevron; my favorite. Can not go wrong with that, even if one try's !!! . Thank you !!.
Merci Robert ! Hugo
The green was the one I liked the most. All of them are amazing still
Thank you Ito ! It's the thickest of all. Almost bullet proof ! Hugo
I love my pea coat, with a soft wool scarf and gloves in the winter. Cheers, Hugo!
I love it too! So beautiful and comfortable at the same time ! Hugo
Dear Hugo, your channel is a gem, I'm so glad to have found it! The passion, knowledge and humility you transmit are what got me into the sartorial world, so thank you! I was wondering if you could possibly make a video talking about ties, from materials, over the different knots and possible accessories, to great value for money brands and, of course, exceptional craftsmen. Just a suggestion! All my best, Lucas
Merci Lucas, and yes we will cover all these subjects, little by little. Hugo
Hugo your coat collection is stunning , my wife and I both love your Red one the most, the cut the color are incredible. Thank you for sharing, from your Sartorial disciples in Canada
Thank you my friends. We love Canada! Cheers, Hugo
Good evening Hugo I hope that this finds you well, yet again my friend a fantastic video with more amazing content, keep up the great work it is very much appreciated, kind regards your friend Ryan.
Thank you Ryan ! Best, Hugo
All the coats were phenomenal, but the red one stood out to me as an absolute classic. I wish I had the long silver hair and the face and tan skin that you have Hugo. I feel you pull these looks off so well. I'm afraid I could not pull this off...but thank you for sharing your collection here today, my friend. Cheers.
Thank you Anthony for your kind words. Cheers my friend, Hugo
Absolutely love the green overcoat! I have just purchased a British Army Ulster double-breasted coat in a military green.....back belt......storm collar......like you, I do like an overcoat! Love this episode!
Thank you Simon ! Best, Hugo
The Cifonelli looks stunning! All the others too, but the simpler one exudes it’s class through the cut, just like you wanted!
Really like the green and red ones as they caught my eye. The cashmere will be something I will need to look for. I have one of tan camel hair -off the rack that I like but I can see there is room to upgrade! Keep up the great videos!
Many thanks James. And yes you should give a try to cashmere. If you need advice please don't hesitate to ask. cheers! Hugo
I have a 21k Brioni overcoat that is made of Astrakhan fur, deerskin leather, and cashmere. It is very classy and sophisticated looking. Love it!
Is it a recent one or from the "real" Brioni era ? Best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I believe it's from 2011 or 2012 "be the one of the kind "collection.
My coat is similar to your cifonelli overcoat in that it is very adjusted to what kind of clothes one wears. It can be worn without a jacket or with one. Very versatile, which I like it, as I do like a rather casual wear, like with my Zilli silk shirt or with my Stefano Ricci cashmere sweater. Don't need to wear a jacket and a tie to look appropriate. This, I like very much!
Every time a new video uploaded, first thing is thumbs up, then watch it
May thanks my friend ! Hugo
I have an overcoat made for me by Anderson & Sheppard. The style of the coat and the fabric itself were popular in the 50's-60's. (A&S had the 50's fabric copied.) It's a long coat to wear in the country or a casual coat for the city. It's quite heavy. It has raglan sleeves, a balmaccan collar, and cuffed sleeves and slanted pockets. The fabric is a small birdseye pattern in dark brown and off white. Several salesmen in high end menswear stores have stopped me to ask where I got the coat.
Dear Roy, knowing quite well the work of A&S I'm sure your coat is outstanding. Best ! Hugo
Thank you for all your work, Hugo and Sonya. Thanks to you I've decided to wait until I'm able to pursue the path of bespoke instead of indulging the urge to buy off the rack suits. Meanwhile I'm limiting to smart casual as I'm still a student, buying "the best for less" I can find here in Naples looking through smaller and more traditional shops where I can get in touch with the people who make what I buy, or at least know where and by who that's made. This has brought me to a conception of dressing as a meditation on myself and my persona. Hearing from Sonya, in her latest video, about Carl Jung's theories - a subject on which I wrote my bachelor's degree final work - has convinced me even more that yours isn't just a job but a sort of philosophy of life too. Last but not least, two simple little episodes like you answering a comment of mine on Instagram or Sonya liking a picture of me and my best friend dressed up for his degree day. These were very heart-warming things and I felt even better thinking that you do this with all other people who admire your job. It showed me how grounded you two are and that you really want to push other people in the direction of beauty and not just make money out of it. Sorry for the lengthy comment, but I truly wanted to express my gratitude and happines to be part of this community. Thank you again,
Gian Marco
Thank you so much Marco for your kind, heartwarming and uplifting comment. This kind of common gives us even more energy to improve our content and ourselves. Best wishes, Hugo & Sonya
Very nice! My favorite coat is my Lammycoat. It’s warm, the leather feels amazingly soft and I look badass 😎
Interesting. I'm not familiar with Lammycoats but I will take a look. Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS I’m sure it’s not your taste (it’s more the tough man look than gentlemen😅) but you will see what I mean. Lammy coats or Shearling as they are also known where worn by pilots in the Second World War. Sheep’s wool as a lining and Lambs leather on the outside. They come in many styles/colors (short or tall).
Thanks Hugo. Great to learn about these designers. I love Overcoats! The favourites in my collection are by Tagliatore and Luigi Bianchi Mantova.
Great Ritchie! Cheers, Hugo
I definitely share your love for overcoats, i have more coats than shoes!
Wow! Unfortunately, I have way more shoes than overcoats!!! Cheers, Hugo
I own 5 overcoats of sorts as well. I count a duffle as one, plus 2 blousons which all fit nicely over a jacket.
The other 2, each 3-buttoned, I have been known to fit one upon the other, during especially cold weather, creating a neat visual effect. A light scarf fits over the inner coat and a thick one over the outer coat.
Once again great video Hugo!i loved all off your coats,as a greek from Athens i always consider coats waisted money(i need a coat 4-5 days a year) but now you really made me consider to make a bespoke coat(after 1o bespoke suits it will be a change).
Dear Nikos, for 4 days a year, I'm not sure it's a good investment hahaha!! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS definately not
Very nice variety!
Stylish vid and editing! Pleasure to watch
Wonderful to read your reply, Hugo
Love the tie Hugo...and the suit...and the pocket square...and well I guess the shoes too 🤷🏼♂️
Tie by the Urban Ties in Romania, Suit by Cifonelli bespoke, pocket square by Simonnot Godard and shoes by Antonio Meccariello. Best ! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS much appreciated. I will look into them.
You are very welcome! Hugo
I love the tufted leather booth in the background! So elegant and comfortable.
Not sure what you refer to Jake... Can you be more precise ? Cheers, Hugo
2:44 There is a green couch or booth in the background.
Ha yes, sorry I didn't understand your comment at first (remember I'm just French haha). Indeed it's a beautiful couch for sure and extremely comfortable . Best! Hugo
I'm so glad to see Belvest get some recognition. My favorite coat is a Belvest gray flannel patch pocket. It looks like a structured sport coat, but its unlined so it feels and behaves like a hoodie. I think it's part of their Jacket-in-a-Box line, but I'm not certain of that. But anyways, Belvest for the win!
I never really got an actual quality overcoat since where I live it doesn't get cold often and usually last a month but a few weeks ago I picked up my bespoke overcoat in 100% Cashmere Royal Blue with 3 button, peak lapels, and velvet contrast collar.
That Red & the other green coat is 🔥👍
The Ciardi coat looks amazing.
And it is amazing. Hugo
Your Chanel is way better than Kirby Alison. Kirby always talks to himself when interview someone, while you seem very humble.
Thanks for the kind words. Kirby is a good friend and is very good at what he's doing. We have different styles of production though. Cheers, Hugo
Nothing but Class.
Merci Scott! Hugo
I could not find a video about your watches. I discovered you recently and i am now a fan. I would really like to hear your opinion on wristwatches and jewelry. Keep up the amazing work, you are an inspiration.
Many thank Robert. Be patient please ! Cheers, Hugo
Great video! Will we see a sports coat video in the future? I would be interested to see how you put together an outfit with them. Some of them have amazing patterns and fabrics, and finding one you really like is like finding a gold nugget
You mean a classic sports coat (an odd jacket) ? You can see a few in the series on my wardrobe. Cheers, Hugo
Your knowledge is stunning. Your a true gentleman. Love your style.
Thank you so very much. Cheers, Hugo
Mr. Jacomet is really brave ... despite that the red coat is fabelous, I would never be seen in one!!
Hahaha, you would be surprised how easy this coat is to pull off in reality. Cheers Eyad, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hello Sir ... the reason I dont wear red is my skin tone and pigment ...I have white reddish skin color... therefore; I opt for dark blue or dark grey or even black overcoats.
I understand my friend, Have a nice Sunday! Hugo
I'm the only one who notice that Italy was not in the wrong side in both wars?
In WWI Italy was part of the allies and fougth the Austrians in its north east border.
In any case great work as always!!!
You are right sir, I should have been more precise for WWI (or avoid the subject which has little to do with our topic). I just wanted to stress that immediately after WW2 it was impossible for an Italian company to re-establish a business in France. WW1 is a much more complex subject because despite being a member of the Triple Alliance, the Italians did join the Allies. Anyway sorry for this historical shortcut. All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Don't worry! It was a thing that was needed to be said in the comments but in any case change the excelent quality of the video.
By the way the historical references are, in my opinion, great additions to the videos.
Keep up with the great work!
Regards from Uruguay🇺🇾!
@@SARTORIALTALKS PD: I really appreciate this kind of reference and above all the quick response analysing the issue
Thank You! Hugo
You are very welcome ! Hugo
Thank you for breaking down these coats..
My pleasure my friend, Hugo
I get cold very easily and live in NYC. I would like to know what to wear in the winter. With overcoats, i feel like the wind just enters the middle and cuts through the warmth. I simply go back to understated models of technical jackets such as Arcteryx. Are there any good suggestions about wind-proofing and covering the middle opening of overcoats for snowy windy winters.
Just wanted to say that I just picked up a copy of The Italian Gentleman and what a magnificent book. Beautiful photos and interesting history of the ateliers' beginnings. Will you add an Ulster coat to your collection?
Thank you ! And yes I will add an Ulster coat soon. Hugo
Why do I feel comfortable watching this?
Just bought a Kiton Cashmere overcoat. It’s around 17k usd. Love it so much! Love double breasted overcoat!
It would be fun to see fine examples of utilitarian gear, eg: parkas, ski jackets and hooded storm-wear among your collection, too
Great shirt, Hugo
Thank you! This one is by Marol in Bologna. Cheers, Hugo
In regards to the final coat I think it also gets called a Chesterfield in English, just a more casual one. Sometimes I also see topcoat used to refer to it instead of just used to mean a lightweight overcoat.
A search for a coat was how I got into the world of bespoke clothes. I wanted a black trench coat with a belt but I couldn’t find a RTW one; they were either beige, navy or didn’t fit me. So I found a tailor and had one made. Only then I started getting some shirts and other clothes.
Congratulations, and safe bespoke journey ! Hugo
Hi Hugo, i don’t know if you did it on pourpose or even if you noteced it, but the first three coats (all made in Italy) combined toghether represents the Italian flag.
Nice video as always.
Hahaha, no I didn't do it on purpose and I did not even noticed it ! Forza Italia ! Hugo
After this video I need to try a cashmere overcoat, great video Hugo
Oops sorry for your bank account then ! I'm joking. Cashmere is an incredible material for sure. Best, Hugo
Hugo, have you done a video on your wrist watches collection?
Love the video.
My style is more casual to smart casual and I don't have a big budget for a coat but I always wanted to own one. Can you please recommend budget brands for me check?
Spier and Mackay or Walker Slater. Best! Hugo
By far, the Cifonelli is my favourite.
Mr Hugo you have a very beautiful collection of overcoats please do a video on your shoe collection.
The Dalcuore is my favorite.
It is, indeed, a beautiful overcoat. Cheers, Hugo
I do honestly like your Dalcuore bespoke overcoat as I think it is very masculine. But I do like chic and sophisticated cut that accentuate the ensemble and silhouette, and drape so I would pick Caraceni bespoke as my favorite from your collection. Very elegant! I do like dark charcoal or off black color for overcoat as it tends to be elegant and drape better/more forgiving on any body types.
Many thanks Cris for your comment. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for sharing your wonderfully exquisite collection, Hugo! Much appreciated it!.
@5:07 and I already knew the red over coat is going to blow out the other competition
It's one of my favorite too even if it's not the most discreet...Cheers, Hugo
Thanks for the video. Could you say something about the right length of coats? I find that current fashion is often too short.
your accent is so charming haha
Cheers!
Cheers to you Rob ! Hugo
Very good information to use
Merci Jonathan. Hugo
I’m trying to convince Benson & Clegg to offer all of their metal blazer buttons in a larger, overcoat size. I particularly like their hand enameled button. Maybe if I pressure them and you also pressure them then they’ll realize that we’re right and capitulate to our wish!
Hugo you are true gent love the vids xden
Love the video, and your storytelling is fantastic. I would like to know the Sonia overcoats too, I see some in your pictures the really I like it. 😊
Thank you Joaquin. And you are right Sonya has wonderful overcoats and especially one from Sartoria Celeghin which is an absolute piece of art. Cheers, Hugo
Great video. Could you consider doing a video on more casual clothing that is made to a high quality standard? e.g jeans/chino's/sweaters.
Dear Jin, I'm often asked this question but honestly it's not my zone of expertise, and I'm sure there is a lot of TH-cam channels out there covering this subject. Best ! Hugo
Nice collection but that pea coat 🧥 is lit 🔥
I love it also (although I almost forgot to mention it!!). It's from Sartorial Sabino in Napoli. Hugo
Hugo, not to obscure the overcoat theme, your suit and tie nailed the show!!
Haha, thank you ! Hugo
Overcoat #5 👍👍👍
Coming from someone who's 6'0 with a bigger chest/frame here. The big lapels really don't work for me, even though my chest tapers into a thinner waste, the bigger lapels end up looking silly by attracting an obnoxious amount of attention. Same goes for my suits.
If you're trying to look bigger, taller, more muscular then it works. But if you already ARE taller and/or muscular you don't need those details to over-accentuate your natural features. This works really well for Hugo as he's noted his height and frame before as well of course.
5:30 Wearing it like a boss!
Im impressed by the suit...;)
Thank you Maciej, it's a Cifonelli bespoke 3 piece suit from 2011. Cheers, Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS Thank You;)...a learn a lot from all your videos;)
Really nice tie
Merci, it from Urban Ties (Romania). Best, Hugo
Dear Hugo, another fantastic video by you. It was very entertaining to see your beautiful coats but I was a bit confused over your classification on different coat types. I thought a Chesterfield coat was single breasted and what you called a Chesterfield was a Paletot. I have heard this from Mr Sven Raphael Schneider.
Well the Chesterfield can indeed be single-breasted but always have a velvet collar. It's the very definition of a Chesterfield while a Paletot is a generic term for an overcoat. By the way Sven is a good friend. Hugo
Hello Mr. Jacomet
I have a question about overcoats if you are willing to take the time out fo your day.
My mother and i are making our own overcoat, and i am curious as to what the proper fit should be on an overcoat? i know they are meant to be worn over a suit so their needs to be a greater allowance but does the coat need to be baggier, slimmer, are the sleeves larger than normal etc.
Thank you and please continue making these wonderful videos.
This is a complex question which requires more than a TH-cam answer to cover. Let's say an overcoat should be, by definition, slightly "oversized" in order to allow to wear a suit under. But balance is the key word. I'm sure there are some technical books on the subject. Cheers, Hugo
RedBelvest is my favourite
I love it too! Hugo
I’d like to see a video explaining “the cut”. That or if anyone can leave a moderately detailed explanation it would be appreciated. I’ve never understood the importance being that anything you buy off the rack will usually end up a tailors shop. The best mental image I’ve gotten is from a cartoon character where the drape of an imaginary full canvass jacket laid precisely on the figures body and therefore flattered the silhouette.
The cut is everything my friend. If the most beautiful garment in the world made with the most luxurious fabric is badly cut, then it's a visual disaster. The cut is everything because it's precisely about the silhouette. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo I learn so much from you,thanks again.I have a question,I heard you say the Chesterfield is double-breasted,is it appropriate in single-breasted?
have you ever considered a vicuna coat, like, for example, the one seen in the classic film "Sunset Blvd."?
Hello, should the sleeve buttons on an overcoat be functional? Normally there is no need to open the sleeves of an overcoat, but this might be a nice detail to be able to open them.
Hello Hugo, I would like to know your opinion on the use of capes in menswear
I think a cape can be elegant if worn by an elegant person who knows what he or she is doing. Best, Hugo
All coats fit you nice. Speciell the red one.
Merci Robert ! Hugo
Hello, I need an advice regarding overcoats. I am a short guy (164 m). I was told that that full sized coats do not look good on short guys and that I should get a coat that reaches above the knee. What do you think?
Hugo, sorry to go off topic...but can you tell us about the great fabric on your suit? Also, what do you think of the "self stripe" patterns?
I think this fabric is a blend of wool and cashmere with a tone-on-tone chevron (almost invisible). I don't know what you mean by self stripe patterns ? Cheers, Hugo
How difficult is cashmere to be well kept? I hear it’s easily to tear as well.
Does anyone know the name of the collar of the shirt that Hugo is wearing? I have been searching for a shirt with this style of collar, but have not been able to find one exactly like this...
Thanks for bringing some style into our modern world Hugo, where flashy logo’s and cheaply made jewelry is considered good taste.
Well I think we can call this collar an "Italian collar" or a half spread collar. Best, Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS thank you!