Bro I gotta be honest, usually when I watch any mechanic videos I'm always discouraged within first 90 seconds, with you, complete opposite my friend! Good looking out for taking the time to post this! Never said this before on TH-cam but THANK YOU THIS REALLY ACTUALLY SOLVED MY ISSUE!!!!
Great video. Got me through perfectly. Just glad I finished the whole video. I almost ran for the two torque bits you said at the beginning and you threw the T47 in the middle. Already made two trips, a third would have pushed me over the limit. Also, even if the parts store lists the 200 something mm rotors as fitting. They don't for 4 wheel drive. You need the 300 something mm ones like you said. That was the second trip. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Just saw this video, great mechanical points. Please put a complete tool list at the front of any video. You should include the use of lube or rust inhibitor on the hub and the pad hardware. Its very important where deicer is used in winter. Really enjoyed you content and concise explanation of what you were doing!
Thanks for the info on the parking brake. It might just be me but i like to put the pads of the caliper mounting bracket before i install the mounting bracket.
YagerOnTop did you get a service parking brake code when this happend? i had the driver rear apart and smacked rotor off hub and the parking brake engaged and spit the piston out. i got the piston back into caliper and parking brake retracted like in the video, but now i have a light on for the parking brake.
@@travisbarrette6876 yea I think in the settings you have to reset the parking brake.. I'm not sure but I definitely had to reset something I remember.
Another reason why Chrysler is the worst. In all honesty, I've done dozens of these over the years never replaced them, never had a problem. Makes you wonder if manufacturers say things just so they can sell parts 🤔
The protective film of oil on the rotors are so little it won't matter. Some mechanics will spray brake cleaners on them and swear by it. I've never had any Issues with it. Delivered pizza in a new car that lasted 10 years with 300k miles on it. Did multiple brake jobs and clutch replacements. Never cleaned off the new rotors and it did fine. I always open the bleeder while cranking on the clamp to let the old oil escape (use a rag to catch the 1/4 cup of fluid that will come out). I've had an old master cylinder break by pushing the oil back into it, the plunger rubber tore and folded in on itself.
Definitely easier to retract the parking break in the settings on the radio display. There's a tab for breaks and then you just need to set it for service mode. When you're finished you just press the breaks and engage the parking break. Easy to understand video though.
Why you did not show how to release the electronic brake before you remove the caliper because parking brake automatically engage when the engine does not run, lacking of explanation.
I just changed my daughter’s rear brakes on her 2016 Cherokee. This design by Chrysler is the worst !! I’ve never in my life had such a hard time to get pads to fit into both inside & outside of rotor! I knew I was in trouble when I had to pound my 19 mm impact socket over the crappy chrome coated lugs! I ended up replacing them ! I’d never buy a Dodge or Chrysler! Stick with Toyota!!
You can retract the parking brake by going to settings on the display, selecting brakes, service mode.
This is a man that knows how to explain the process without making too long and difficult, great post ,u rock !
Bro I gotta be honest, usually when I watch any mechanic videos I'm always discouraged within first 90 seconds, with you, complete opposite my friend! Good looking out for taking the time to post this! Never said this before on TH-cam but THANK YOU THIS REALLY ACTUALLY SOLVED MY ISSUE!!!!
Well coordinated also, laying out what size tools needed, good man yourself!!
Appreciate the kind words glad it helped!
Great video. Got me through perfectly. Just glad I finished the whole video. I almost ran for the two torque bits you said at the beginning and you threw the T47 in the middle. Already made two trips, a third would have pushed me over the limit. Also, even if the parts store lists the 200 something mm rotors as fitting. They don't for 4 wheel drive. You need the 300 something mm ones like you said. That was the second trip. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
You can retract the brake with a touch of button in uconnect.
Yes you can on most newer Chryslers
Thanks for the video. Saved me a lot of time and frustration.
Awesome tutorial video! Simple and to the point with nothing left out. 👍 Thanks man! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Liked and subscribed! Thank you for a clear tutorial.
Thank-you so much for that was a very straightforward informative how to video.
This video was a lifesaver thank you.
Just saw this video, great mechanical points. Please put a complete tool list at the front of any video. You should include the use of lube or rust inhibitor on the hub and the pad hardware. Its very important where deicer is used in winter. Really enjoyed you content and concise explanation of what you were doing!
Thanks for the info on the parking brake. It might just be me but i like to put the pads of the caliper mounting bracket before i install the mounting bracket.
That works as well!
Great video dude. Very helpful
Grat video and great help thank you!
Thank you!!! I had it off the brake caliper and when I did the settings it pushed the piston right out smh wish I saw ur video before I did my job
It happens always a good rule of thumb not to do anything inside the vehicle once the caliper is removed.
YagerOnTop
did you get a service parking brake code when this happend? i had the driver rear apart and smacked rotor off hub and the parking brake engaged and spit the piston out. i got the piston back into caliper and parking brake retracted like in the video, but now i have a light on for the parking brake.
@@travisbarrette6876 yea I think in the settings you have to reset the parking brake.. I'm not sure but I definitely had to reset something I remember.
Very useful tutorial!!
thanks for making the video.... the only thing you forgot was to clean the rotor. :)
I dont clean the rotors the brake pad will burn off any extra oils and whats left will serve as extra protection against the rust here in ohio.. :-)
@@danthebrakeman the oils wind up causing a glaze on the rotor which causing chattering and premature wear.
You forgot to mention the knuckle to bracket bolts are torque to yield and one time use.
Another reason why Chrysler is the worst. In all honesty, I've done dozens of these over the years never replaced them, never had a problem. Makes you wonder if manufacturers say things just so they can sell parts 🤔
Do you clean the grease off the new rotor? And do you loosen the top on the master cylinder to allow the brake fluid to return easier?
The protective film of oil on the rotors are so little it won't matter. Some mechanics will spray brake cleaners on them and swear by it. I've never had any Issues with it. Delivered pizza in a new car that lasted 10 years with 300k miles on it. Did multiple brake jobs and clutch replacements. Never cleaned off the new rotors and it did fine. I always open the bleeder while cranking on the clamp to let the old oil escape (use a rag to catch the 1/4 cup of fluid that will come out). I've had an old master cylinder break by pushing the oil back into it, the plunger rubber tore and folded in on itself.
Definitely easier to retract the parking break in the settings on the radio display. There's a tab for breaks and then you just need to set it for service mode. When you're finished you just press the breaks and engage the parking break. Easy to understand video though.
It is easier when it works half the time it doesn't work on Chrysler though
More like a bank account saver but still much appreciated
Did the parking electronic parking brake engage?
Can you retract the electronic parking brake on a Chrysler 200 the same way?
Yes
@@danthebrakeman Okay thanks a lot! Do you think the Chrysler 200 takes a t47 torx for that too?
Did you reuse the t55 bracket bolts? Aren't they single use?
Nerd.
Good video BUT CLEAN the hub, put anti seize on the hub, clean the rotors, and don't let your calipers hang around on the brake lines.
...and you do NOT have to remove the brake module. You change the setting on the car computer before you start to keep the brakes from engaging
If you smack the bolt on the rotor first ,comes out a lot easier.i always just use a ball pean hammer.and if it strips I drill it ,lol
That looks like a screw in style piston you need one of those block tools for...
Negative. Don't be fooled.
@@danthebrakemanI know just wondering why Mopar put a screw in piston in a caliper that doesn't require it. Strange stuff.
Why you did not show how to release the electronic brake before you remove the caliper because parking brake automatically engage when the engine does not run, lacking of explanation.
That's a setting in the unconnect you can turn it off and on
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I just changed my daughter’s rear brakes on her 2016 Cherokee. This design by Chrysler is the worst !! I’ve never in my life had such a hard time to get pads to fit into both inside & outside of rotor! I knew I was in trouble when I had to pound my 19 mm impact socket over the crappy chrome coated lugs! I ended up replacing them ! I’d never buy a Dodge or Chrysler! Stick with Toyota!!
More like a bank account saver but still much appreciated