Great video! I never would have thought you could retract the parking brake on the screen in the dash. I'll bet that makes this job much easier. I am going to tackle it tomorrow. Thanks again.
Great video! I did my front brakes yesterday, and I'm gonna do the rear after payday. 🙂 I'm always a little wary about ordering parts online, though. I worry that they won't be right, and then I have to wait days or weeks while I send them back and get the right ones. It just sucks because stuff is so much cheaper online. For example, high-end Raybestos rotors are cheaper at Rock Auto than the cheapest Duralast at Autozone.
Should've used silicone based grease for those caliper guide pins! Plus you didn't grease the pad ears and ect....The rotors could use a good turn or been replaced!
heads up if you're replacing the rotor you don't need to remove the bracket. remove the bolt holding the rotor to the spindle and pull the front of the rotor toward you, like opening a door. if rotor is rusted to the spindle hit the front with a hammer until its free.
When I saw you had to go into the settings for the Parking brake i lost my mind lol I would’ve never thought that . No wonder the piston didn’t go back in
Lol i think I accidentally discovered it when i was playing with the settings of the car when we first bought it and i made sure to make note of it before trying to force those suckers in lol
For this specific car, yes it didn’t require any turning. Usually rear calipers on many cars have to be turned. Just make sure on “newer” cars like these to disengage the rear park brake mechanism by following instructions from the manufacturer
Backyard PitStop thanks. I’ve got the Renegade 2015. Looks like the same set up all the way from the UConnect down to the caliper. Thanks for the video
@@STR33TTRAVEL i think that would depend on your vehicle. I’d assume dual piston if you’ve got a v6 and awd and single piston for a 4cyl and 2wd. You can also call a dealership with your vin to verify
Mechanic books recommend to release the purge valve before compressing the piston, otherwise you can bust your master cylinder diaphragm! Also, we usually replace BOTH the rotor and brake pads. Putting new pads on worn out rotors is just a waste of money.
Not sure what you mean by the “purge valve” however i did do the precondition routine via the infotainment system. And these pads only cost me like $5-$6 total shipped to my house because they were an open box item so I wasn’t worried about ruining them. My sole purpose of the video was to show the precondition routine procedure and how to get access to the pads. They’ve been working perfectly fine so far otherwise.
@@fouellet1701 you mean a caliper bleeder valve?!? I open the cap at the brake fluid reservoir to help relieve the pressure when compressing the piston in the caliper. LOL who calls it a purge valve? FYI: “Bleeding” involves letting the fluid to run out to allow all the air bubbles to be pushed out. In contrast, “purging”means emptying the fluid line completely. And i hope you’re not insisting that i empty out the fluid completely from the caliper/line, because that doesn’t seem to be the right procedure for this job.
Leave the top of caliper bolt in and swing up caliper out of way. It's a lot less work and wasted time. And compress caliper with large c clamp before moving caliper up, which makes the job a lot easier.
@@MJAltairy Synthetic grease is a problem for the caliper pins that have o rings. These pins are on the trailhawk model with the tow package. They are not on your limited model. The front discs on trailhawks with the tow package have 2 pistons not 1. The grease makes the o rings bloat and the pins stop floating.
Great video, thanks! (And congratulations on your $7 deal!) Just get your "bolts and nuts" straight! A bolt is a boy, and a nut us a girl, if that's of any help :-) Peace!
Oh, and I think it helps to get some "brake grease" onto those SS brackets where the pads are supposed to slide inside too. (Just be careful to keep the grease away from the friction surfaces - where the braking action is supposed to happen!)
They’re ZF/TRW brake pads. It’s a pretty decent brand considering they’re probably the brake suppliers for most Chrysler vehicles. They were just cheap because it was an open box item from Amazon.
You should not be making how to change brakes lol ! #dont use a hammer to put the pads in ,if they are that tight somthing is not proper period and this is not the way to change your brakes !! Just dont do it lmao not like this guy anyways lol just saying ! He just watched a video on how to himself lmao its probably his first time or so it would seem lol bahahahaha
When you’ve done over 100+ brake jobs in a rust belt state, you develop a “just send it” mentality and your hammer, torch and pry bars become must have tools.
New brake pads for old and damaged brake discs? Great thing!
Great video! I never would have thought you could retract the parking brake on the screen in the dash. I'll bet that makes this job much easier. I am going to tackle it tomorrow. Thanks again.
Primera vez que me atreví a cambiar las balatas .Gracias.
Appreciate the good camera angle & explanation.
Thank you for the video! It’s a big help! 👍👍
Great video! I did my front brakes yesterday, and I'm gonna do the rear after payday. 🙂 I'm always a little wary about ordering parts online, though. I worry that they won't be right, and then I have to wait days or weeks while I send them back and get the right ones. It just sucks because stuff is so much cheaper online. For example, high-end Raybestos rotors are cheaper at Rock Auto than the cheapest Duralast at Autozone.
Thanks for sharing. That brake maintenance menu in the dashboard settings would have thrown me off for sure.
Al Schiftner i was lucky enough to discover it before I attempted this job lol
No doubt. I’m glad I watched the video
Should've used silicone based grease for those caliper guide pins! Plus you didn't grease the pad ears and ect....The rotors could use a good turn or been replaced!
heads up if you're replacing the rotor you don't need to remove the bracket. remove the bolt holding the rotor to the spindle and pull the front of the rotor toward you, like opening a door. if rotor is rusted to the spindle hit the front with a hammer until its free.
Good job very understandable
Wait…. I toot the parking brake off and I could spin the rotor freely. Would not doing this step stop the piston from compressing?
When I saw you had to go into the settings for the Parking brake i lost my mind lol I would’ve never thought that . No wonder the piston didn’t go back in
Lol i think I accidentally discovered it when i was playing with the settings of the car when we first bought it and i made sure to make note of it before trying to force those suckers in lol
Great jop , I have jeep cherokee 2015 longitiod with 5 inch screen , tell me what to do thanks
I believe it should be the same procedure but your menu options might look a little different.
It’s on the 5 inch screen under assistance menu
With the caliper decompression, you can just push it straight in? You don’t need to turn it?
For this specific car, yes it didn’t require any turning. Usually rear calipers on many cars have to be turned. Just make sure on “newer” cars like these to disengage the rear park brake mechanism by following instructions from the manufacturer
Backyard PitStop thanks. I’ve got the Renegade 2015. Looks like the same set up all the way from the UConnect down to the caliper. Thanks for the video
Any recommendation brand for front and back?! I heard few like bosch, powerstop, raybestos, brembo?
All of those are good brands. I believe bosch and TRW are the OEM replacements tho so those would do the job for sure!
@@MJAltairy One more question. Is it usually 278mm single piston on the rear or 320 dual piston?
@@STR33TTRAVEL i think that would depend on your vehicle. I’d assume dual piston if you’ve got a v6 and awd and single piston for a 4cyl and 2wd. You can also call a dealership with your vin to verify
How did u get the caliber piston back in
Gotta make sure to do the “Brake Service Mode” (shown at 1:22) to unlock the rear caliper pistons so that you can push them in manually afterwards.
Do you leave the car turned on from settings after you program to do the job
Buena pregunta, me interesa también la respuesta.
The rotor looked a little rough should you change it so it doesn't rip up your new brake pads
Yeah def change it. I just didn’t have the rotors yet but figured I’d at least show how the pads are replaced on these.
Mechanic books recommend to release the purge valve before compressing the piston, otherwise you can bust your master cylinder diaphragm! Also, we usually replace BOTH the rotor and brake pads. Putting new pads on worn out rotors is just a waste of money.
Not sure what you mean by the “purge valve” however i did do the precondition routine via the infotainment system. And these pads only cost me like $5-$6 total shipped to my house because they were an open box item so I wasn’t worried about ruining them. My sole purpose of the video was to show the precondition routine procedure and how to get access to the pads. They’ve been working perfectly fine so far otherwise.
@@MJAltairy : If you do not know that there is a purge valve on the brake calipers then you should not even touch at them LOL :-)
@@fouellet1701 you mean a caliper bleeder valve?!? I open the cap at the brake fluid reservoir to help relieve the pressure when compressing the piston in the caliper. LOL who calls it a purge valve?
FYI: “Bleeding” involves letting the fluid to run out to allow all the air bubbles to be pushed out. In contrast, “purging”means emptying the fluid line completely. And i hope you’re not insisting that i empty out the fluid completely from the caliper/line, because that doesn’t seem to be the right procedure for this job.
@@MJAltairy wow this dude really tried correcting you and said “purge valve” 😂 what a joke. Great video by the way
@@rob1131 i know right?!? 😂 And thanks man! I appreciate it!
Leave the top of caliper bolt in and swing up caliper out of way. It's a lot less work and wasted time. And compress caliper with large c clamp before moving caliper up, which makes the job a lot easier.
dont use synthetic caliper grease or o rings on pins will swell (trailhawk model)
Is it ok for non-trailhawk models? This car just has a trailhawk hood but it’s not an actual trailhawk.
@@MJAltairy Synthetic grease is a problem for the caliper pins that have o rings. These pins are on the trailhawk model with the tow package. They are not on your limited model. The front discs on trailhawks with the tow package have 2 pistons not 1. The grease makes the o rings bloat and the pins stop floating.
@@MJAltairy if there are no rubber o rings seated in the caliper pins then synthetic grease is ok
@@NE-Explorer appreciate the info! Thank you!
Nice angle on video but you need to replace the rotors bro. Tons of rust on them your brake pads will wear twice as fast.
Great video, thanks! (And congratulations on your $7 deal!) Just get your "bolts and nuts" straight! A bolt is a boy, and a nut us a girl, if that's of any help :-) Peace!
Oh, and I think it helps to get some "brake grease" onto those SS brackets where the pads are supposed to slide inside too. (Just be careful to keep the grease away from the friction surfaces - where the braking action is supposed to happen!)
Lol thanks for the tip! 😂
Should have changed out those rotors while you were at it.
Those rear rotors are shot!!
why are you not replacing those rotors?? this is half-ass work.
tomlew2007 you definitely won’t be thrilled with my “how to replace just the rotor” video either lol
Word of advice don’t cheap out on your brake pads
They’re ZF/TRW brake pads. It’s a pretty decent brand considering they’re probably the brake suppliers for most Chrysler vehicles. They were just cheap because it was an open box item from Amazon.
Do a risk analysis. If you're on a tight budget, cheap brake pads are better than not doing the job because you can't afford it.
Now I thought for sure this was your first time lmao lol ,I guess if it works it works ,but you will never touch my brakes lmao lol never!
Jason Blanton i hope i dont ever have to.
You should not be making how to change brakes lol ! #dont use a hammer to put the pads in ,if they are that tight somthing is not proper period and this is not the way to change your brakes !! Just dont do it lmao not like this guy anyways lol just saying ! He just watched a video on how to himself lmao its probably his first time or so it would seem lol bahahahaha
When you’ve done over 100+ brake jobs in a rust belt state, you develop a “just send it” mentality and your hammer, torch and pry bars become must have tools.