@@ReinierAlansalon thanks. How do you like them for a DD? do they make a lot of dust or noise? I have bad experience with metallic. I had to get some performance ceramics last time. Hawk hps 5.0 street ceramic. The same metallic ones squeaked all the time and made a ton of dust. Worked well otherwise. This was on an 05 STi.
Nice work, I swapped my front pads last week and yeah you guys are completely correct, what a world of difference this make! Loving those Volk CE28 wheels, I have same ones as well.
You don't actually have the brake performance right after the pad replacement. Because the brake pad still has a coating on them. EBC called their coating Breaking-in Coat. You will feel the real pad after about 100 miles when it's properly bedded.
You should use a proper hanger on that loose caliper in case it falls. Also, you should open the bleeder screw when compressing the piston since that fluid is usually in the worst condition and you don't want it going back up into the line. (But I guess if you are flushing it doesn't matter that much. Just general advice.) Also, please put rags everywhere whenever working with brake fluid. Super corrosive to paint and other materials.
Car looks sick but using the tools properly and using proper tools helps aswell. brakes are a safety item. bed the brakes in properly aswell, that top coating on the pad is for initial braking. do more research before install
Totally agreed. Brake is somethong needs to be taken seriously. Just an FYI for everyone else, Yellowstuff is self-bedded for street use. If you want it to be for track, it does require more bedding, but EBC doesn't recommend Yellowstuff for track use anymore, since they changed the compound.
Hello Aeroflow Dynamics. On the EBC website it has different rear breaks listed for the EBC Yellowstuff which is DP42257R. Do you know if what EBC has listed is wrong and should buy the DP41758R instead?
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The brake pads are EBC Yellowstuff, part number:
DP42330R (Front)
DP41758R (Rear)
The stock pads are rubbish. They did not perform well for autox.
Confirmation from the author?
@@straitupstaticx Confirmed I have them on.
@@ReinierAlansalon thanks. How do you like them for a DD? do they make a lot of dust or noise? I have bad experience with metallic. I had to get some performance ceramics last time. Hawk hps 5.0 street ceramic. The same metallic ones squeaked all the time and made a ton of dust. Worked well otherwise. This was on an 05 STi.
Nice work, I swapped my front pads last week and yeah you guys are completely correct, what a world of difference this make! Loving those Volk CE28 wheels, I have same ones as well.
Always good to bed in the brakes per instructions on the first drive
My old girl just picked up her new wrx ts on Thursday, she’s loving it bro! 👌
You don't actually have the brake performance right after the pad replacement. Because the brake pad still has a coating on them. EBC called their coating Breaking-in Coat. You will feel the real pad after about 100 miles when it's properly bedded.
You should use a proper hanger on that loose caliper in case it falls. Also, you should open the bleeder screw when compressing the piston since that fluid is usually in the worst condition and you don't want it going back up into the line. (But I guess if you are flushing it doesn't matter that much. Just general advice.) Also, please put rags everywhere whenever working with brake fluid. Super corrosive to paint and other materials.
You forgot the color match flares sneak peek 😩
Wheres the link to brakes?
Make sure you guys torque it down to enough tight foot pounds
Don’t see the link for the pads anywhere
yeah, no link for the brake pads
Awesome video, like always! You should paint the calipers and brackets
I hope a company can make a product to replace fake vents above the fog lights on this car
Just cut them out and there you go, real vents
The stock brakes are super soft tbh
Did you say something about color matched flares you’ll be producing??
In the works at the moment! Render will drop next week!
Car looks sick but using the tools properly and using proper tools helps aswell. brakes are a safety item. bed the brakes in properly aswell, that top coating on the pad is for initial braking. do more research before install
Totally agreed. Brake is somethong needs to be taken seriously. Just an FYI for everyone else, Yellowstuff is self-bedded for street use. If you want it to be for track, it does require more bedding, but EBC doesn't recommend Yellowstuff for track use anymore, since they changed the compound.
what camera setup are you guys using to film this?
Hello Aeroflow Dynamics. On the EBC website it has different rear breaks listed for the EBC Yellowstuff which is DP42257R. Do you know if what EBC has listed is wrong and should buy the DP41758R instead?
Depends on if you have the CVT or the manual. The rear brake sizes are different between different transmission. EBC has both.
@@ryanlu.500 I have the manual e-break.
@@srjt9000then you can order the same parts as they showed in the video
Are those just one time stop test?
With these pads and a proper brake fluid flush I can guarantee you'll enjoy a whole track day. Was a MASSIVE difference.
why would u need to flush the brake fluid if u use the factory spec and its fresh and clean?
@@rickjames5998 To replace the factory DOT 3 fluid with DOT 4.
You dont have to remove both caliper bolts just the bottom ones then flip them up
Exactly lol
Pristine Edge
Do u have aos on your wrx?
Where y’all located?
nice
saw the title and thought you got some unequal length headers
What do you mean you’ve never bled brakes? It’s the most important part. Lol
Just get speed bleed screws.
That used to be a chore. How does this method work?
Where? I can’t find any for the 22 WRX anywhere.
Where's the sneak peak on the flares? Better hurry. If you don't someone else will soon.
That’s not the worst issue the worst issue is the damn fender flares