Indeed.... Sam is not biased and only uses his vast experience to share what he has learned. This is the greatest way to help others in their personal quest for knowledge.... Thank You SAM!!
What a GREAT teacher! I watch these videos over and over again and always pick up something I missed or didn't fully understand. I don't know why you left YT but I'm sure we'd all love to see you back reviewing new products you're using and recommending. PLEASE come back!
Your son is lucky to have you teaching him all this valuable knowledge. It's tough having teach myself all this stuff as an adult. Glad people like you are sharing your knowledge and experience with the rest of us.
My Dad had a "violent" case head separation happen 60 years ago. His friend wanted him to shoot his engraved fancy bolt rifle from Europe. Problem was, it was an unusual caliber so he had a Montanan gunsmith load some rounds. When Dad pulled the trigger, the gun blew up, ruining his hearing in the right ear and sprayed small brass frags (and presumed powder) into his right eye. He wasn't blinded when he healed, but he went to talk to the gunsmith. Turns out he took .303 brass and cut the rim off and sized the brass to fit. Trouble was he didn't realize that the brass in those days (in the .303) was folded to make the rim so when he trimmed the rim off he critically weakened the base of the brass. This story has very little to do with this reloading video (which is excellent!) but Dad's message was "Never shoot somebody else's hand loads!" . So I never have.
Not doubting the story but I doubt that being the reason. I personally think it was overloaded or gun malfunction. We do that on a regular basis on resizing brass.
I have been hand-loading for 30+ years never really looked into "bumping" the shoulder, just following the instructions of the dies to full length resize. Once in a while I would get a cartridge that seemed to be tighter going into the chamber than another cartidge, never really understood why. I have over the years had different rifles in same chambering and I assumed "full length" resizing meant it should fit every rifle, perhaps not. Nor did I segregate one lot of brass for each like chambered rifle. Now I have a rabbit hole to explore! Wow, thank you so much.
Wow! I've only watched half of this video, but I am so impressed by your communication skills and your simple presentation that I had to stop and complement you....... now back to the show.
You do a good job at braking down the steps and explaining things for the new reloaders. because of that I share your content when ever I’m asked about reloading for your own rifle.
This is an exceptionally clear presentation of several common terms and concepts that are often misunderstood...not because reloaders are slow on the uptake; but rather because there is often no really good place like this to start with the fundamentals and why and how they are important. I wish I would have had a reference like this when I started down Reloading Road. Thank you so much for doing this.
After watching different video makers, Sam is amongst the top three, maybe even the best. His Panhandle Precision website, which has the text of his videos, makes him unique. His content is a no nonsense, to the point source of information. Pound for pound, there really isn’t a much better, or more practical source for learning about reloading; and other things. Thanks Sam.
Greetings from South Africa. Thank you so much for this video! Everyone else is just trying to sell their product instead of teaching like you do. I just moved from neck sizing to full length sizing and your video helped immensely. Keep well
Howzit from the UK. Couldn't agree more. They'd sell more if the average reloader understood how to use their products. As is it's something of a black art to the uninitiated!
Honestly, I have watched heaps of your videos and they are full proof. Every video I watch I walk away 100% understanding whatever message you are trying to get across. Cheers mate
Great video! I'm completely new to reloading and I've watched several videos on this topic today and your's is the first one that I've watched and actually understood it. Your videos are always very easy to follow and very well explained. Thank you for the education!
This was very helpful. I've crunched brass in the past thinking you just FL size and call it done. There should be a warning that comes with calipers: BUY A HEADSPACE COMPARATOR AND BULLET COMPARATOR SET TO ACHIEVE CONSISTENT RESULTS!
Well Sam, thanks to you I'm finally in the tail end of getting my reloading setup complete. It's taken me a few months to afford it all but I'm excited. Bought some Sinclair stuff, a Hornady OAL gauge, a Redding Type S Bushing die set, Lapua brass, and after watching your video on bushings I finally made my last purchase, a bushing. I'm really excited and I have to thank you for these videos. Hoping I'll have a loaded round in the next week or two. Keep up the videos!
Thanks for sharing this video. Its so nice to find a video where someone talks articulated and clearly. The content is excellent too. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Just found your channel earlier today. I got into reloading back in early 2020 (terrible timing). I purchased a starter Redding press (Big Boss 2) after reading many reviews by people who had been into re-loading rifle cartridges a long time. It took about 5 month on back order before I received the press kit from Sinclair. I've been picking up components for the last two years. I'm finally at a point where I'm preparing to actually re-load.Obviously, you have lots of experience and I liked the way you explain things. After watching your video I realized I still need a couple more measuring devices. Getting ready to locate and order them. Thanks!
Very well done with great information. Being an old hand loader I do find it is much more accurate with the measuring tools easily available today. Long ago we called this “partial resizing” and did it by feel. Just to clarify terminology, true FL sizing brings the case back to SAMMI deminsions and is achieved by setting the die for a slight cam-over. Backing the die out from that point to where the die just bumps the shoulder is called partial resizing, and backing to where the dies just touches the shoulder sizes the neck without pushing the shoulder back. Typically on the first firing a case will be formed to the proper deminsion and the shoulder will not require being bumped back. Subsequent firings will cause the case to be to tight, and by the 3rd firing many cases will be to tight for the bolt to close. What we used to do, without measuring tools, was to take a case that chambered hard and incrementally adjust the die down until the case chambered. At that point you’ve bumped the shoulder 2 or 3 thousand’s. There seems to be a lot of confusion about neck sizing vs FL sizing and which is better. Partial sizing with. FL provides more consistency reload after reload because with neck sizing eventually you have to bump the shoulder back thereby introducing change. However, if you are using mild loads, you can neck size for quite a few times without issue.
Very well explained. Thank you. I’d watched a number of other videos on this topic, including from very ‘well known’ presenters and they left me confused. I appreciate you taking the time to actually demonstrate what you’re talking about and not just deal in theories.
Sam! Good morning I believe I account for 10% of the views on this video. Great work brother. You can tell your in this for the love of the game. Thanks a ton. JP
Great video, I’m a fairly new reloader and at the range a few days ago I broke open a can of some of my early loads, 5.56 with 77gr bullets. First thing I found was they would not chamber in my bolt action Ruger. After a thorough inspection I had pushed the shoulder back so far and bulged the neck. Looks like I’ll be breaking those down for components. Thank you very much for all your time and effort.
Hi Sam, your channel came well recommended by a friend, good video. On the subject of case head separation, this is a common enough safety issue to bear discussion. Case head separation results from too much shoulder bump. The loaded cartridge is pushed forward in the chamber by the firing pin. The case shoulder is pressed against the front of the chamber, but the case head is not supported in the rear by the bolt face. End result, the case stretches backwards to meet the bolt face on every firing, until the brass eventually thins and separates just above the webbing. The brass is the pressure boundary that keeps the hot gasses from blowing back through the raceway into your face. Symptoms of shoulder bump problems (excess headspace in reloading terms, although I understand your point that the cartridge can't change the SAAMI spec headspace of the chamber) include primer misfires, as the firing pin expends its energy pushing the case forward rather than detonating the primer.
these are hands down the best reloading and precision reloading educational videos on the internet. Thanks a ton for posting these. Hope I catch you at a match someday just to say hi
Thanks for going over these steps again with the detailed explanation. I understand what you're saying since I have some experience reloading. A drawing or two might help those that don't quite understand where headspace is defined and how it's established. What I ended up using to measure the headspace location on the shoulder is a .40 S&W case. This works well because the headspace location on the shoulder of the Creedmoor cases or the .260 Rem case has a diameter of 0.400". I use the same approach to measure headspace on a .300 Win Mag case. I still need a way to measure bullet ogive so I use one of those Sinclair bullet competitors that looks like a big hex nut.
Thanks a bunch for making this video. This is a great comprehensive video to understand a lot about this subject. I am brand new to learning about reloading and only learned about the importance of all this yesterday. This is the best comprehensive video I've seen on the subject.
A big thank you from Jensen Beach Florida, I just found your channel and immediately subscribed! Thank you for taking the time and patience for teaching all of us and sharing your wisdom!
I bought a comparator gauge today. Only took me 30 mins and 35 cases to get it set!. Lol.. kinda tricky with my little cheap Lee loader kit I bought in 2000 for 35 bucks. But its working now. Thanks for the series on case prep. I'll keep watching and learning!
Thanks. Just learning to reload, and there are so many varying opinions and theories. I am a perfectionist so it is very difficult. However, after many hours on the web, you are the first that has been able to explain to me “shoulder bump”, in a way I can comprehend. Keep it up!
Thank you! Very much appreciate the simple layman's approach to producing accurate ammunition. Too many take it into a rocket science realm that cannot honestly be quantified due to numerous influences/variables beyond the actual cartridge, chamber, and rifling.
Thank you! This video is absolutely superb. You explain things very clearly and succinctly, unlike most reloading videos I have watched as I attempt to learn about it before actually doing it myself (i.e. convincing myself that spending two week's wages on equipment is a wise choice, especially when I usually have almost nothing left unspent each week ;-). You have a new subscriber, my friend!
Good Video, Sam. Life is good when our FL dies match our chambers exactly or close as possible. I once loaded the same four cases (for a belted mag, no less) over and over for a couple days. I stopped at 17 cycles because I got tired and because I started hearing a squeeking noise when I sized them and at the time, I did not have a means of annealing them. I think head seperation happens most often with belted brass. The shoulder length of belted brass is all over the map because ammo makers know the belt is there to bail them out. The thinning due to the initial stretch can be a lot and it can't ever be put back. I believe the reason die makers include two decapping stems (one with an expander, one without) with bushing die sets is they don't know what brass you are using. The expander is intended for use with common brass such as Remchester that probably has neck wall thickness variations. The one without the expander is intended for high grade brass like Lapua that has even thickness or common brass that has been neck-turned. Again, good video. You have a beautiful reloading room.
Part of the fun is establishing our own tried and true reloading methods for achieving reliability and accuracy. I use a Forester bushing bump die to neck size my brass and I can't over stress the importance of verifying the die setup with a case gage and head space comparitor. I see five significant advantages to bumping the shoulder with the Forester neck sizing die. First, you don't work harden your brass by expanding it in the chamber then constantly contracting the brass in an FL sizing die. Second, you're not extruding the brass up the die, doing so thins the brass and reduces the life of expensive brass. Three, fire formed the case is a precision process that allows the brass to maintain concentricty with the chamber. Four, with the brass concentric to the chamber, the neck and bullet maintain axial alignment with the bore. Five, you're able to select the proper neck bushing to control tension on the bullet.
Man i was on the ball a little over a year ago when i started reloading. I was reloading 9mm .223 and .308 lol i havent reloaded in about 8 months now and im getting back into it and i damn near forgot all this stuff haha time to refresh
Dude, for me it happens every *day*. I forget small pearls all the time.. I pay attention to the basics when it comes to safety. But, all the pearls... You almost have to write down your entire process, and justification for why you're doing it, to make sure you can come back to it, and pick up where you left off.
Hey Sam, just want you to know I've been following your videos every step of the way since I started 6 months ago. Bought Sinclair products like you, Redding Type S bushing die set (which was a great decision), followed everything and it all came together last Monday. Everything worked perfectly fine and I'm loading for an M1A Loaded too. I'm now addicted so thanks for that haha
Hey just a note about the Hornady One Shot Spray you like to use, pick up a can or two of CRC Food Grade Silicone Spray from your local hardware store and for 1/3 of the cost you will get twice the amount of the same spray!
It all makes a lot of sense to me Sam. Your not making huge dimensional changes at all and you give yourself a good sized insurance policy that you'll be able to close over that bolt on all your loads. And not only are your sizing adjustments small but the brass will spring back a little when you extract the die from the shell. So even less resizing occurs.Thanks for sharing your experiences and hope y'all had a nice Thanksgiving.
I’m glad I found your channel, you do the best job I’ve seen on thoroughly explaining proper reloading procedures. You simplify everything, it makes me wish I would have found this gold gem channel sooner. Thanks brother, I look forward to watching many more excellent videos!
Regarding full sizing vs. bump sizing vs. neck sizing can result in some very heated discussions. When this topic comes up among a group of hand loaders you can be sure it will be an interesting afternoon. I enjoyed your video and I agree with your opinion, I've been doing the same for years..
Sam, I bought a RCBS desk mounted priming tool last week. one of the best tools ive bought in a long time. I've had lee hand helds, rcbs hand helds but was never pleased with the result. thx for the recomendation.
I know it was a pain in the butt for you to cut those pieces of brass in half, but it is a great visual training aid. Thanks for your videos. I am able to refresh’s my memory and I still learn a lot.
Very good video. I headspace my barrels at +.003 no go to go gage. I neck sized new brass with Remington 260 brass and Hornady 260 one closed freely and the other just a little resistance on the bolt. What I noticed on the SAMMI datum to the shoulder on both cartridges were the same. Must have been the neck shoulder juncture was long. Felt like chambering an Ackley. I have always full length size also with .002 bump. Never had a case failure either. Loaded 7 times up to 10. Depends on the brass and the loads.. Case inspection and analysis is a must. Once again very good video.
Hi Sam thanks for the great video. For my 6.5 creed i’ve been sizing my necks with a bushing die then going back over them all with the Sinclair mandrel to iron out inconsistencies with the internal neck diameters. It’s quite tedious to do this with every piece of brass however I’ve found this lowers my SD and ES quite a bit. I’m glad to hear the results of your comparison between the mandrel and the expander ball and may start doing the same. This will eliminate an entire step in my brass prep! Also thanks for the detail on belted magnums. I’ve never been concerned with the dreaded c.h.s on my 6.5 however I’ve always been worried about thinning at the belt on my 300wm due how much they stretch I encounter after firing. I’ve fired my Norma win mag brass 6 times so far with a fairly hot 78gr of H1000 with no noticeable thinning at the belt. The primer pockets are another story.. I’ll doubt this brass will see 10 firings so I was glad to hear about the gunwerks brass longevity.
I full length resize also. I have learned long ago to ask a customer if they reload before I work on a gun. I have made reamers and the general SAAMI tolerance on the chamber body is around .002. The general tolerance on ammunition body diameters is around .008. Mic the diameter of the body on new ammunition. Winchester is usually the smallest. Check until you find the biggest(Fat) case down by the head. If you start with the tightest brass it helps. The tightest chamber I ever had was an 8x57 that I made the reamer to fit the full length dies. Then it matters not what brand brass you use.
I'm surprised how good this gun is for under $100. It has a descent weight to it unlike a toy, the quality looks and feels great, simple to attach the scope which is very clear and easy to sight. First shot out of the box before sighting was relatively accurate at 25 yards. It only took 6 shots to zero in the scope. I would definitely recommend purchasing this air rifle.
Very informational video I got a very lot out of this video thank you for the content in the breakdown I am looking to start reloading my own brass this was very helpful once again thank you so much.
I had a case separation but it was lapua brass given to me. I later found out it had been through two owners and three separate guns with approximately 20 firings. I will never shoot anyone else’s brass again as it took me out of a match.
For what it costs I just buy new, by the time it has been reloaded multiple times the brass is a much smaller cost than the bullets and powder that are obviously used up every time.
Amen on your sizing observations. I did a study on a couple of calibers I work with. You are exactly correct. Even the "small base" SB sizing dies will not produce brass dimensions as small as what you first get out of the box from the vendors. Why? Vendors are going to make their box dimensions to fit the smallest "in-tolerance" SAAMI dimensions.
I saw a video a short time ago where headspace was being explained and the problems and failures associated with incorrect headspace especially when there is excess space between the cartridge and the barrel. A very interesting point was brought up and that is, that if you are reloading a cartridge that was fired from your weapon and it is going back into that weapon, then the headspace will be correct. At least for that weapon. The reasoning is that when the round fires the cartridge expands to fit the space. At least as far as headspace is concerned. The overall length may have to be trimmed as well as it may have to be sized in diameter, but the headspace length will be correct for that particular weapon.
When i do die set up i take the expander ball out. Then when the shoulder is bumped enough i put it back in. This slows down work hardening of that one case. (For guys that don't anneal)
Case head separation is most common in semi autos where the gas is forcing the bolt back while the round is still under pressure and tight to the chamber. Since we cannot run a bolt that fast with a bolt gun, case head separation is less common with a bolt gun, but... it can happen if the shoulder is bumped too far as that creates stretching of the brass when pressure builds. Minimizing headspace clearances minimizes the stretching in the web.
I don't have a case trimmer yet. I found out yesterday why getting all of your cases the exact same length is important. I ended up having to seat each bullet individually, to get them lined up on the cannelure. Then, I ended up having to taper crimp each one individually, because the bullets were seated differently. I gotta buy a case trimmer. Period. lol This was my first time reloading.
I know this is an older video, however, I’m glad I found it. New to PRS reloading. This video answered a ton of questions I had regarding shoulder bump, use of bushing dies and the included expander ball vs the mandrel. When and why you should use a ball vs a mandrel. Also 300 WM and how to size it correctly. One question I still have is...how do you deal with the case growth/bulge, near the belt, on a 300 Win Mag???? Thank you, Sir, for making a complex subject easier for beginners to understand. God Bless you.
I'm going to make a bold statement, I move that we declare panhandle precision the patron saint of precision reloading.
I would second that motion!
AGREED
Indeed.... Sam is not biased and only uses his vast experience to share what he has learned. This is the greatest way to help others in their personal quest for knowledge.... Thank You SAM!!
But also Mark and Sam After Work
@@dannylandrum7899 also a good example of selfless instruction for the sport.
What a GREAT teacher! I watch these videos over and over again and always pick up something I missed or didn't fully understand. I don't know why you left YT but I'm sure we'd all love to see you back reviewing new products you're using and recommending. PLEASE come back!
Your son is lucky to have you teaching him all this valuable knowledge. It's tough having teach myself all this stuff as an adult. Glad people like you are sharing your knowledge and experience with the rest of us.
In my studied opinion.... one of the best (if not THE best) instructional videos on reloading. I base that on my 50 years of experience.
My Dad had a "violent" case head separation happen 60 years ago. His friend wanted him to shoot his engraved fancy bolt rifle from Europe. Problem was, it was an unusual caliber so he had a Montanan gunsmith load some rounds. When Dad pulled the trigger, the gun blew up, ruining his hearing in the right ear and sprayed small brass frags (and presumed powder) into his right eye. He wasn't blinded when he healed, but he went to talk to the gunsmith. Turns out he took .303 brass and cut the rim off and sized the brass to fit. Trouble was he didn't realize that the brass in those days (in the .303) was folded to make the rim so when he trimmed the rim off he critically weakened the base of the brass. This story has very little to do with this reloading video (which is excellent!) but Dad's message was "Never shoot somebody else's hand loads!" . So I never have.
Your dad’s advice is solid.👍🏻
Not doubting the story but I doubt that being the reason. I personally think it was overloaded or gun malfunction.
We do that on a regular basis on resizing brass.
I have been hand-loading for 30+ years never really looked into "bumping" the shoulder, just following the instructions of the dies to full length resize. Once in a while I would get a cartridge that seemed to be tighter going into the chamber than another cartidge, never really understood why. I have over the years had different rifles in same chambering and I assumed "full length" resizing meant it should fit every rifle, perhaps not. Nor did I segregate one lot of brass for each like chambered rifle. Now I have a rabbit hole to explore! Wow, thank you so much.
This is the most comprehensive video I've ever watched. I'm new. I'm grateful I've found this
You said it all, he's great
Wow! I've only watched half of this video, but I am so impressed by your communication skills and your simple presentation that I had to stop and complement you....... now back to the show.
Thank you for taking the time to teach what you know so others learn and keep this going for the next generation
You do a good job at braking down the steps and explaining things for the new reloaders. because of that I share your content when ever I’m asked about reloading for your own rifle.
wow this is the best video ive ever seen on sizing... I have zero questions left that was very comprehensive
Panhandle Precision shares real knowledge and does it WELL. Bow down to the man.
This is an exceptionally clear presentation of several common terms and concepts that are often misunderstood...not because reloaders are slow on the uptake; but rather because there is often no really good place like this to start with the fundamentals and why and how they are important. I wish I would have had a reference like this when I started down Reloading Road. Thank you so much for doing this.
After watching different video makers, Sam is amongst the top three, maybe even the best. His Panhandle Precision website, which has the text of his videos, makes him unique. His content is a no nonsense, to the point source of information. Pound for pound, there really isn’t a much better, or more practical source for learning about reloading;
and other things. Thanks Sam.
Greetings from South Africa.
Thank you so much for this video! Everyone else is just trying to sell their product instead of teaching like you do. I just moved from neck sizing to full length sizing and your video helped immensely.
Keep well
Howzit from the UK. Couldn't agree more. They'd sell more if the average reloader understood how to use their products. As is it's something of a black art to the uninitiated!
Best source of reloading information I've found yet... Thanks for taking the time to share it.
I've been watching Sam for years and he is the best.
Honestly, I have watched heaps of your videos and they are full proof. Every video I watch I walk away 100% understanding whatever message you are trying to get across. Cheers mate
Great Video! Sincere thanks! Been loading since 1991, and I learned something new today!
Great video! I'm completely new to reloading and I've watched several videos on this topic today and your's is the first one that I've watched and actually understood it. Your videos are always very easy to follow and very well explained. Thank you for the education!
This was very helpful. I've crunched brass in the past thinking you just FL size and call it done. There should be a warning that comes with calipers: BUY A HEADSPACE COMPARATOR AND BULLET COMPARATOR SET TO ACHIEVE CONSISTENT RESULTS!
Well Sam, thanks to you I'm finally in the tail end of getting my reloading setup complete. It's taken me a few months to afford it all but I'm excited. Bought some Sinclair stuff, a Hornady OAL gauge, a Redding Type S Bushing die set, Lapua brass, and after watching your video on bushings I finally made my last purchase, a bushing. I'm really excited and I have to thank you for these videos. Hoping I'll have a loaded round in the next week or two. Keep up the videos!
Pretty much where I'm at now. Almost ready to get some .308 loaded up 👍
Excellent video, probably the best I have ever seen on the subject. Thank you for sharing it. This video will improve my loads.
Thanks for sharing this video. Its so nice to find a video where someone talks articulated and clearly. The content is excellent too. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Just found your channel earlier today. I got into reloading back in early 2020 (terrible timing). I purchased a starter Redding press (Big Boss 2) after reading many reviews by people who had been into re-loading rifle cartridges a long time. It took about 5 month on back order before I received the press kit from Sinclair. I've been picking up components for the last two years. I'm finally at a point where I'm preparing to actually re-load.Obviously, you have lots of experience and I liked the way you explain things. After watching your video I realized I still need a couple more measuring devices. Getting ready to locate and order them. Thanks!
I just watched this again, and I want to say "Thank You" for producing this timeless instruction! I enjoy the material you produce, please keep it up.
Very well done with great information. Being an old hand loader I do find it is much more accurate with the measuring tools easily available today. Long ago we called this “partial resizing” and did it by feel. Just to clarify terminology, true FL sizing brings the case back to SAMMI deminsions and is achieved by setting the die for a slight cam-over. Backing the die out from that point to where the die just bumps the shoulder is called partial resizing, and backing to where the dies just touches the shoulder sizes the neck without pushing the shoulder back. Typically on the first firing a case will be formed to the proper deminsion and the shoulder will not require being bumped back. Subsequent firings will cause the case to be to tight, and by the 3rd firing many cases will be to tight for the bolt to close. What we used to do, without measuring tools, was to take a case that chambered hard and incrementally adjust the die down until the case chambered. At that point you’ve bumped the shoulder 2 or 3 thousand’s. There seems to be a lot of confusion about neck sizing vs FL sizing and which is better. Partial sizing with. FL provides more consistency reload after reload because with neck sizing eventually you have to bump the shoulder back thereby introducing change. However, if you are using mild loads, you can neck size for quite a few times without issue.
This is an excellent video. Great information, well presented and to the point. Thanks.
Very well explained. Thank you. I’d watched a number of other videos on this topic, including from very ‘well known’ presenters and they left me confused. I appreciate you taking the time to actually demonstrate what you’re talking about and not just deal in theories.
Sam! Good morning
I believe I account for 10% of the views on this video. Great work brother. You can tell your in this for the love of the game. Thanks a ton. JP
Great video, I’m a fairly new reloader and at the range a few days ago I broke open a can of some of my early loads, 5.56 with 77gr bullets. First thing I found was they would not chamber in my bolt action Ruger. After a thorough inspection I had pushed the shoulder back so far and bulged the neck. Looks like I’ll be breaking those down for components. Thank you very much for all your time and effort.
rookie
Hi Sam, your channel came well recommended by a friend, good video. On the subject of case head separation, this is a common enough safety issue to bear discussion. Case head separation results from too much shoulder bump. The loaded cartridge is pushed forward in the chamber by the firing pin. The case shoulder is pressed against the front of the chamber, but the case head is not supported in the rear by the bolt face. End result, the case stretches backwards to meet the bolt face on every firing, until the brass eventually thins and separates just above the webbing. The brass is the pressure boundary that keeps the hot gasses from blowing back through the raceway into your face. Symptoms of shoulder bump problems (excess headspace in reloading terms, although I understand your point that the cartridge can't change the SAAMI spec headspace of the chamber) include primer misfires, as the firing pin expends its energy pushing the case forward rather than detonating the primer.
You're able to explain this stuff like no other
Thanks for making it sound so simply and alleviating my anxiety .
One opinion I’ll always listen to .
Cheers Mate 👍🏻
these are hands down the best reloading and precision reloading educational videos on the internet. Thanks a ton for posting these. Hope I catch you at a match someday just to say hi
Thanks for going over these steps again with the detailed explanation. I understand what you're saying since I have some experience reloading. A drawing or two might help those that don't quite understand where headspace is defined and how it's established.
What I ended up using to measure the headspace location on the shoulder is a .40 S&W case. This works well because the headspace location on the shoulder of the Creedmoor cases or the .260 Rem case has a diameter of 0.400". I use the same approach to measure headspace on a .300 Win Mag case. I still need a way to measure bullet ogive so I use one of those Sinclair bullet competitors that looks like a big hex nut.
You sir, are a legend. Thank you on behalf of all reloaders.
Superb video of an often misunderstood subject. Your explanations are easy to follow and thoroughly done. Many thanks!
Thanks a bunch for making this video. This is a great comprehensive video to understand a lot about this subject. I am brand new to learning about reloading and only learned about the importance of all this yesterday. This is the best comprehensive video I've seen on the subject.
A big thank you from Jensen Beach Florida, I just found your channel and immediately subscribed! Thank you for taking the time and patience for teaching all of us and sharing your wisdom!
I bought a comparator gauge today. Only took me 30 mins and 35 cases to get it set!. Lol.. kinda tricky with my little cheap Lee loader kit I bought in 2000 for 35 bucks. But its working now. Thanks for the series on case prep. I'll keep watching and learning!
Holy crap! Just when I think I’ve consumed enough info to start reloading I find another Panhandle video.
You have one of the best by far descriptions and videos on headspacing thank you
At last the answer I was looking for on how to bump back the shoulders and how much!! Great material
Glad you liked it!!
Thanks. Just learning to reload, and there are so many varying opinions and theories. I am a perfectionist so it is very difficult. However, after many hours on the web, you are the first that has been able to explain to me “shoulder bump”, in a way I can comprehend. Keep it up!
Thank you! Very much appreciate the simple layman's approach to producing accurate ammunition. Too many take it into a rocket science realm that cannot honestly be quantified due to numerous influences/variables beyond the actual cartridge, chamber, and rifling.
Thank you! This video is absolutely superb. You explain things very clearly and succinctly, unlike most reloading videos I have watched as I attempt to learn about it before actually doing it myself (i.e. convincing myself that spending two week's wages on equipment is a wise choice, especially when I usually have almost nothing left unspent each week ;-). You have a new subscriber, my friend!
Good Video, Sam. Life is good when our FL dies match our chambers exactly or close as possible. I once loaded the same four cases (for a belted mag, no less) over and over for a couple days. I stopped at 17 cycles because I got tired and because I started hearing a squeeking noise when I sized them and at the time, I did not have a means of annealing them.
I think head seperation happens most often with belted brass. The shoulder length of belted brass is all over the map because ammo makers know the belt is there to bail them out. The thinning due to the initial stretch can be a lot and it can't ever be put back.
I believe the reason die makers include two decapping stems (one with an expander, one without) with bushing die sets is they don't know what brass you are using. The expander is intended for use with common brass such as Remchester that probably has neck wall thickness variations. The one without the expander is intended for high grade brass like Lapua that has even thickness or common brass that has been neck-turned.
Again, good video. You have a beautiful reloading room.
Part of the fun is establishing our own tried and true reloading methods for achieving reliability and accuracy. I use a Forester bushing bump die to neck size my brass and I can't over stress the importance of verifying the die setup with a case gage and head space comparitor. I see five significant advantages to bumping the shoulder with the Forester neck sizing die.
First, you don't work harden your brass by expanding it in the chamber then constantly contracting the brass in an FL sizing die. Second, you're not extruding the brass up the die, doing so thins the brass and reduces the life of expensive brass. Three, fire formed the case is a precision process that allows the brass to maintain concentricty with the chamber. Four, with the brass concentric to the chamber, the neck and bullet maintain axial alignment with the bore. Five, you're able to select the proper neck bushing to control tension on the bullet.
Man i was on the ball a little over a year ago when i started reloading. I was reloading 9mm .223 and .308 lol i havent reloaded in about 8 months now and im getting back into it and i damn near forgot all this stuff haha time to refresh
Dude, for me it happens every *day*. I forget small pearls all the time.. I pay attention to the basics when it comes to safety. But, all the pearls... You almost have to write down your entire process, and justification for why you're doing it, to make sure you can come back to it, and pick up where you left off.
Thank you! I have a 7mm rem mag and having issues chambering reloads and this showed me everything I needed to know.
Iam a new self taught reloader down in Tendoy, thanks for sharing info on how to become a better safer reloader
Hey Sam, just want you to know I've been following your videos every step of the way since I started 6 months ago. Bought Sinclair products like you, Redding Type S bushing die set (which was a great decision), followed everything and it all came together last Monday. Everything worked perfectly fine and I'm loading for an M1A Loaded too. I'm now addicted so thanks for that haha
Gday from Australia
Thanks for the easy to understand and thorough explanation on this process
Cheers Sam
Hey just a note about the Hornady One Shot Spray you like to use, pick up a can or two of CRC Food Grade Silicone Spray from your local hardware store and for 1/3 of the cost you will get twice the amount of the same spray!
I found this very interesting and useful. Thank you for taking the time to put it up.
It all makes a lot of sense to me Sam. Your not making huge dimensional changes at all and you give yourself a good sized insurance policy that you'll be able to close over that bolt on all your loads. And not only are your sizing adjustments small but the brass will spring back a little when you extract the die from the shell. So even less resizing occurs.Thanks for sharing your experiences and hope y'all had a nice Thanksgiving.
Very informative and has cleared up a lot of things for me as I move from loading pistol to my 6.5CM. Thanks
Great job, Sam. Excellent information, presentation, and production.
Thank you so much. I will have to watch this a couple of times to really wrap my head around it. No pun intended.
And ANOTHER excellent, step by step walk-through for us. Just beginning to reload and you have helped me so much...Thanks Panhandle.
New to reloading. Appreciate the video!
I’m glad I found your channel, you do the best job I’ve seen on thoroughly explaining proper reloading procedures. You simplify everything, it makes me wish I would have found this gold gem channel sooner. Thanks brother, I look forward to watching many more excellent videos!
Regarding full sizing vs. bump sizing vs. neck sizing can result in some very heated discussions. When this topic comes up among a group of hand loaders you can be sure it will be an interesting afternoon. I enjoyed your video and I agree with your opinion, I've been doing the same for years..
Super info. Watching a ton of videos, just starting out reloading. This one answers many of my questions. Thank you!
Once again, I've struck GOLD :D
Extremely comprehensive video. Great stuff!
Love the content. You can zero a dial caliper. You rotate the dial and the needle will remain stationary until you slide the rule
great video.You have the very best HOW To videos with helpful info in plain everyday language I can understand.
Sam, I bought a RCBS desk mounted priming tool last week. one of the best tools ive bought in a long time. I've had lee hand helds, rcbs hand helds but was never pleased with the result. thx for the recomendation.
Same here.
I know it was a pain in the butt for you to cut those pieces of brass in half, but it is a great visual training aid. Thanks for your videos. I am able to refresh’s my memory and I still learn a lot.
I love your videos. Thanks so much for sharing with us all!!
Very good video. I headspace my barrels at +.003 no go to go gage. I neck sized new brass with Remington 260 brass and Hornady 260 one closed freely and the other just a little resistance on the bolt. What I noticed on the SAMMI datum to the shoulder on both cartridges were the same. Must have been the neck shoulder juncture was long. Felt like chambering an Ackley. I have always full length size also with .002 bump. Never had a case failure either. Loaded 7 times up to 10. Depends on the brass and the loads.. Case inspection and analysis is a must. Once again very good video.
Hi Sam thanks for the great video. For my 6.5 creed i’ve been sizing my necks with a bushing die then going back over them all with the Sinclair mandrel to iron out inconsistencies with the internal neck diameters. It’s quite tedious to do this with every piece of brass however I’ve found this lowers my SD and ES quite a bit. I’m glad to hear the results of your comparison between the mandrel and the expander ball and may start doing the same. This will eliminate an entire step in my brass prep! Also thanks for the detail on belted magnums. I’ve never been concerned with the dreaded c.h.s on my 6.5 however I’ve always been worried about thinning at the belt on my 300wm due how much they stretch I encounter after firing. I’ve fired my Norma win mag brass 6 times so far with a fairly hot 78gr of H1000 with no noticeable thinning at the belt. The primer pockets are another story.. I’ll doubt this brass will see 10 firings so I was glad to hear about the gunwerks brass longevity.
Came here for boredom. I think I’ll stay awhile! Wish I would have found the channel years ago.
I full length resize also. I have learned long ago to ask a customer if they reload before I work on a gun. I have made reamers and the general SAAMI tolerance on the chamber body is around .002. The general tolerance on ammunition body diameters is around .008. Mic the diameter of the body on new ammunition. Winchester is usually the smallest. Check until you find the biggest(Fat) case down by the head. If you start with the tightest brass it helps. The tightest chamber I ever had was an 8x57 that I made the reamer to fit the full length dies. Then it matters not what brand brass you use.
Great video again as always, Sam. Excellent explanation.
Thanks for explaining the info. I’m new with this reloading so it helps when you explain.
Great video. I wish I had someone local like you that I could learn from.
Excellent video. The best I’ve seen on the subject. Thanks for doing it. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm surprised how good this gun is for under $100. It has a descent weight to it unlike a toy, the quality looks and feels great, simple to attach the scope which is very clear and easy to sight. First shot out of the box before sighting was relatively accurate at 25 yards. It only took 6 shots to zero in the scope. I would definitely recommend purchasing this air rifle.
What a great video sir . Everything explained very well . Thank you for a fantastic video.
Excellent info for a new reloader. Thank you!
Great educational video. I learned alot. Very clear presentation. Keep up the good work
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent and clear explanations for a would be new reloader like me ... Thank you
Excellent video, brand new 6.5 Creedmore reloading. Learning a ton, thanks
Very informational video I got a very lot out of this video thank you for the content in the breakdown I am looking to start reloading my own brass this was very helpful once again thank you so much.
Great teacher! Thank you Sam.
I had a case separation but it was lapua brass given to me. I later found out it had been through two owners and three separate guns with approximately 20 firings. I will never shoot anyone else’s brass again as it took me out of a match.
For what it costs I just buy new, by the time it has been reloaded multiple times the brass is a much smaller cost than the bullets and powder that are obviously used up every time.
Amen on your sizing observations. I did a study on a couple of calibers I work with. You are exactly correct. Even the "small base" SB sizing dies will not produce brass dimensions as small as what you first get out of the box from the vendors. Why? Vendors are going to make their box dimensions to fit the smallest "in-tolerance" SAAMI dimensions.
I saw a video a short time ago where headspace was being explained and the problems and failures associated with incorrect headspace especially when there is excess space between the cartridge and the barrel. A very interesting point was brought up and that is, that if you are reloading a cartridge that was fired from your weapon and it is going back into that weapon, then the headspace will be correct. At least for that weapon. The reasoning is that when the round fires the cartridge expands to fit the space. At least as far as headspace is concerned. The overall length may have to be trimmed as well as it may have to be sized in diameter, but the headspace length will be correct for that particular weapon.
Great video and very informative. Thank you for your time! You deserve more subs!
Nice presentation, clear and concise.
He is definitely right about Redding dies. I love them.
When i do die set up i take the expander ball out. Then when the shoulder is bumped enough i put it back in. This slows down work hardening of that one case. (For guys that don't anneal)
thank you for the information! School comes first!
Case head separation is most common in semi autos where the gas is forcing the bolt back while the round is still under pressure and tight to the chamber. Since we cannot run a bolt that fast with a bolt gun, case head separation is less common with a bolt gun, but... it can happen if the shoulder is bumped too far as that creates stretching of the brass when pressure builds. Minimizing headspace clearances minimizes the stretching in the web.
I had a few base separations with straight walled cartridges, but that was during load development going a little too hot. Thanks for the video.
I don't have a case trimmer yet. I found out yesterday why getting all of your cases the exact same length is important. I ended up having to seat each bullet individually, to get them lined up on the cannelure. Then, I ended up having to taper crimp each one individually, because the bullets were seated differently. I gotta buy a case trimmer. Period. lol This was my first time reloading.
Great video!!! I learned a lot on shoulder bump…
I know this is an older video, however, I’m glad I found it.
New to PRS reloading. This video answered a ton of questions I had regarding shoulder bump, use of bushing dies and the included expander ball vs the mandrel. When and why you should use a ball vs a mandrel. Also 300 WM and how to size it correctly.
One question I still have is...how do you deal with the case growth/bulge, near the belt, on a 300 Win Mag????
Thank you, Sir, for making a complex subject easier for beginners to understand. God Bless you.