Even though its been 3yrs since this video came out, i like watching them again just to remind me of things every once in awhile. Some peoples knowledge is just worth watching more than once. Thank you Sam, for such great educational videos.
I feel as though I've been doing the process incorrectly, or at least not as accurately as I could have been, for the last 30 years. Yeah, I don't live under a rock and have seen these bushing dies in the catalogs, but I didn't understand quite 'get it'.
Beginners out there who have watched this series...you have no idea how lucky you are that there is this wealth of information out there for you to access. For free. I started reloading on my own about 10 years ago and had to learn much of this the hard way. The only advice I would give to you that I switched to a few years back would be to your cleaning process. I also deprime and then tumble, but I've started wet tumbling with stainless media about a year ago. I feel like this would be an adequate substitute to you having to clean the pockets and necks out by hand and would probably do just as good a job with the same results. After that I resize, dry tumble, trim, etc much the same as you have shown. I know it's another investment in money but would probably save you time on that lot of 300 that you're working with. Maybe delay carpel tunnel onset a little as well. But again, awesome video series. Especially for those just getting into the reloading hobby. Excellent info and nicely put together.
I agree on the cleaning, I deprime with a univ. redding decapping die, then wet tumble for 30-45 min. with SS pins. The brass comes out looking 99% new. I use dawn and a pinch of lemi-shine. Then dry them off with the air compressor, lube, size, and wet clean again for 25-30 min. to get the lube off, dry, prime, load.
@@jonathanm1854 As you probably already know the active ingredient in Lemi-Shine is citric acid. If you'd like to save a little $$ you can buy food grade citric acid powder from your favorite brewing or wine making supply house.
Sam, I can’t say thank you enough for these videos. I rewatch them from time to time as a refresher before loading up another batch. You have a way of explaining things and sharing your knowledge that makes it very easy to understand and put into practice. 👍🏻
I like your idea of knocking out the primers before any measurements and using a bronze bore brush attached to a cordless drill to swipe out each neck. Excellent explanation and comparison of the 2 types of sizing dies!
Thanks Sam. As always, great work. I am a long time reloader of handgun, shotgun and plinking rifle, but new to the precision rifle thing. Fun stuff. Two suggestions to reduce brass prep time compared to your procedure: 1) Wet tumble with stainless steel pins after depriming. No need to manually do primer pockets or inside and then outside of neck. 2) Rather than trim and then chamfer and debur inside and outside of top edge of neck by hand, do trimming on Henderson Precision trimmer. It trims, chamfers and deburs in one step. Pretty slick.
Steve Truitt I agree, wet tumbling with steel pins will save a lot of time. I use a Dillon power trimmer/sizer but this requires me to chamber and debur, I’ll look into the Henderson unit.
I put a small plastic in the neck before i spray them , I got them at a hydraulic shop they fit inside the case , they come in all sizes , metric or s.a.e. Really enjoy your videos . You tell it like it is......Love it............
Appreciate your knowledge & video on reloading. I’ve just come back to reloading after an absence of 14yrs. Great to see detailed, use and advice of use and brands you use and recommend. Thank you for your patience and advice. Best regards Nik from Australia🇦🇺
Load development series is excellent Sam. Truly the most detailed I have seen on youtube. Looking forward to that Mec press review. Check out a stainless tumbler if you get a chance. The pins are small enough that they clean the primer pocket when you tumble brass. This really helped me speed up my reloading process and the brass looks amazing afterwards.
Im not a long range ,precision shooter but I enjoy reloading all my rifle and pistol ammo. Your channel is a great source of interesting, clearly presented information much of wich I can put to use. My first and only powered case prep center is the Frankfort Arsenal. I de-crimp and clean primer pockets, chamfer, brush case necks if needed. Best of all the trimmer is done off the shoulder and is very consistant. Also a Big time saver. You have me considering the MEC now. Rockchucker is great bu the decapping is messy.
As Alwas, your opinion is very much respected. Have you ever thought of writing a Book. I would definitely be your first customer. Keep up the good word. Be safe and shoot straight.
Love your series, both last and this years , straight to the point , simple for a new loader such as myself ( 4 months ) I just decided to treat myself to a Mitutoyo 500-196-30 and my goodness what a difference , been using some not cheap but mid level calipers and can def see and feel the difference . no more jumping around numbers , having to play with the cartridge to find the rerading/ consistency . Like it so much I have another on the way lol ... keep doing these vids/series Sam , the are the best on BoobTube !!!
Great series. You are a gifted teacher. I have done so much better on the range after I started using the Hornady Bullet Comparator and the Sinclair Bump Gauge. I have always done well with reloading, but this series has given me knowledge and confidence in my work. I know get under 2.5 MOA in my hunting rifles, shooting of a sand bag at the range. I get the same while leaning against a 6x6 post of the overhead roof at the range. When I use my Caldwell Lead Sled, it is MOA with my 270 Win. So so with the 30-06. Also a big thanks for increasing my bullet OCD. It takes so much more time to be perfect.
Just a suggestion. I also use the Little Crow Trimmer (mounted on a drill press). I keep one case with the desired length in the trimmer box for each caliber, so next time I need to move the cutter, I just replace the chamber, put the case, move the cutter until it touches the case and tight the hex. Perfect length every time.
Seen a DIY induction annealer that does cases at 1.5 seconds each. Controllable to .01 second and pause between cycles set at whatever duration you want. Cost approximately $200-$250. I have the ANNEALEEZ II but the speed /accuracy and set up time at which this DIY accomplishes it is amazing. Don't see how AMP can stay in business.
Man I am glad I moved to a Giraud power trimmer years ago, I sure don't miss having to trim then chamfer and debur. If you do not want to spend the cash on a power trimmer Giraud's Tri-way does the same thing trim to length chamfer and debur all in one shot as well.
FT42 I went with the little crow WFT, I was able to get one for each caliber I shoot (223, 6.5Gren, 6.5CM, 260, 6.5-284, 308, 300WinMag) and STILL was cheaper than a Giraud for just one caliber.
Wow! You guy though some great information. Precision is the key to an accurate shot. A lot of new shooters think by buying some "match" ammo and sticking it in there gun they are going to get good accuracy but that is not always the case. Reloading is fun but it is work. More work than just pulling the trigger. Do it right the first time and every time and you will eventually get a load that works for you.
Thank you so much for what you do brother! I love watching ALL of your reloading videos! YOU are such a pro! Its a pleasure to learn from you! I dont have anyone to teach me these things and I appreciate you sharing all ov that information... really useful! I just got started reloading this year. I am very new to this but I love it and I am learning from you and from few other grate guyz on youtube haha! Love you man! Thank you for all the info and sharing your knowledge and your wisdom!
I have watched a number of videos on the subject of resizing brass. There seems to be different views on lubricating brass. Some say to lube the whole case and others say only lube the body and avoid getting lube on the neck and shoulder at all costs. The main reason seems to be to avoid putting dents in the shoulder area when sizing. Cheers from Australia.
I hope you have found a steel pin tumbler. No more tedious brass cleaning by hand. The pins clean out primer pockets and necks. Cleans inside of the brass totally. Saves many hours.
Sam, you reminded me of my dad when you said "How do you like that press Jake?" My dad had a habit of asking me how I liked something that he Really liked. Good stuff!
Another informative video. You have addressed every question I had about Fl dies,neck tension,run out,cleaning lube out of neck,etc. You are the man. The MEC press and Little Crow trimmer are nice.
I run Forster dies and tried the same thing of setting up the full length sizer to just bump 2 thousandths. It seemed I was having a hard time getting consistent measurements. I felt like dragging the mandrel back out of the neck it was sometime pulling the shoulder back out. I went to Forster bump neck bushing die and it seems work more consistently.
Great detailed video! I really like the frankford arsenal prep station. I found i was able to do more steps at once and cut down time on reloading. I'm able to trim, i/o debur and uniform the primer pockets all in one step. It just might be what your looking for. Trimmer works off the shoulder similar to the one you are using. Enjoy your videos Cheers
Thanks for the video - I was hopeful you were going to use the Redding competition die set and show an end to end process video but this does help fill in some gaps prior to me getting started.
I de-prime, then tumble in Frankford Armory with stainless pins. I add 1/4 cup Real lemon juice and 2 tea spoons of dawn. Brass comes out like new inside and out. No need to clean the primer cavity or neck. Then I FL size holding .001-.002 bump, clean in corn com tumble then anneal on my Anealeze.
Great video especially for us who are not beginners to reloading for accuracy. I have a few questions to ask’ but will let that go for another time. Thanks for this video.
You mention the "cratering" of primers. I found my Rem 700, the firing pin had worn the bolt and was "wandering". I had the bolt machined a bushing installed, problem solved. Note: the thing that threw me for awhile was none of the typical signs of overpressure. The problem developed firing factory loads of Hornady and Federal match ammo.
This is, as far as I can recall, the most detailed video yet. Truly a masterpiece. Now, I'm sort of confuse as to whether a neck expander die with the appropriate mandrel is needed, as stated on the video where you talk about it and show how to use it. I get the impression that if one uses a bushing die the neck expander die is not needed, is that the case? I'm confused. Again, thanks for all the time and effort you put into these videos; it's much appreciated.
Another great video! I just got the Lyman case prep center and am pretty happy with it. It's quiet and nicely laid out. But you might not need it if you switched to wet tumbling, no more primer pockets to clean out :-)
The problem I have when I clean the brass, is that there is always some corn cob stuck in the flash hole. How do you deal with that problem? Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.
I got sick of cleaning the necks and primer pockets. I decap and then wet tumble in stainless steel media. I will never go back. It saves a lot of time and manual labor. Great video thank you for making it.
Wow, that's precision. I used to only check for the maximum and case trim length dimensions. I'm going to have to rethink precision in the rifle calibers I reload.
You really need to look into a rotary tumbler with stainless media. It cleans everything. Primer pockets and cases are perfectly clean and the media lasts forever.
If, for whatever reason the neck of the case or cases is bent or dented to start with, removing the expander ball and then neck sizing with the neck bushing and die only, will not make it round again. The bullet will be deformed imho in seating process because of the bend on the inside of the neck.Thanks for the great video.
Hello Sam, got everything down except one detail, and maybe I just missed what you said. When trimming brass, what measurement do you go by, SAAMI specks, or another measurement?
Thanks for all the videos Sam, your practical approach in explaining things is the best so far I've seen in youtube.. On the other note, I'm surprised you haven't gotten into SS pins wet tumbler yet. It would eliminate a couple of steps in the beginning of the video.
I believe you trimmed your resized brass .010. It seemed like you didn’t seem too concerned about the trim length. Just curious if you have a number that you want be below fired length.
Do you have large rifle, or small rifle, primer pockets? I have small, and cannot find a part number to convert my RCBS Decap Die .22-.25 to decap the small primer pockets.
Sam, I just started to watch your videos. Am reloading a .308 using Lapua brass. I took my measurement for new brass, then I fire the brass and remeasure the brass the way you show. For example, my shoulder read 1.6230 after firing it read 1.625. Yes I am using the same tools. Same way I measure before. The length of the brass. A.O.L was 2.009 after firing it when to 2.006. Everything else increase. Am I doing something wrong. It’s this normal for new brass or need to fire couple of times
Lots of great clear info for all reloaders. I actually started this video looking for experienced info on reloading nickled rifle cases. Do you have a vid or article about this issue? Thank you.
Sam, thanks for the detailed videos. I have been handloading since i was 13, so almost 20 years. But i have learned a ton from you recently. Do you clean media dust out of brass after final tumbling? If so, how?
Nope. The first couple of cycles with new media is the worst, but I don't do anything other than shake the brass really well when it's in the separator.
thank you sir I just retired and getting back into reloading. I recently acquired a rem 700 in .243 low number but very good cond. could you suggest a full L sizing die?
Curious why you didn't use your competition dies.....would they have given 'better' results for you and if so in what aspect? I know these vids are time consuming but I'm here to shout out a big thank you for all that work. So informative and interesting!! Thanks again!
Good video Sam. I have a few good loads worked up on new brass following this series. Couple questions as I move into fired brass : what tweeks do you expect to make to your good loads with new brass when they are loaded into fired brass ? What changes do you expect to see in a load when it’s in once fired vs new brass - lower ES, lower SD, tighter precision ?
I almost always see better precision, but the velocity changes vary. I have a few strings out now, but not enough side by side comparisons to tell. I'm kind of shotgunning changes now because I'm in a hurry.:-)
I love my mec marksman, very minimal runout, like I said in another video, I installed a hornady bushing kit so I can change my dies in matter of seconds, no more die adjustment setups, I notice you didn’t uniform flash holes do you have any information about this some people say in good brass like lapua there is no need but some cheaper brass the flash holes are punched.
I clean up WW and Rem brass, mostly because it helps keep media from hanging up in the flash holes on those cases. I see no need on Lapua or Alpha brass.
I have a question on the RCBS decapping dies One is 22 to 25 for size The other is 27 to 45 Do I need to buy one dye for my 223 And a separate die for my 9mm through 44 and 45 You said one day is good for 22 through 45, that is not how they have them listed
Pretty darn cool, i have been wanting to start reloading my own casings for two reason i shoot a lot, and i Dont Ever want to be tied at the hip with anyone when it comes to being able to access Ammo. I have the feeling it might not be long and they will be pushing for Very Tuff Firearm Law restricting how we Ammunition because they will never get so they can take our Firearms. Thank you very much for this ammo.
GREAT VIDEO! QUESTION: you seem to only very lightly hit the trimmed necks with the chamfer and deburring, where I find myself needing several seconds on a powered deburring set up to get the edge to not catch my skin/fingernail. What am I doing wrong that you can achieve the same thing with 2 little finger turns by hand? Or are we chasing different results?? Thanks!
Hey Sam, first time reloader here. I got 100 pieces of brass FL sized but had a couple screw ups. My question is what should I do with the 10 pieces of brass that are .005 shorter than the rest? Thanks!
Hi Sam! thanks for your videos! Your channel is one of the best on youtube about reloading. I have one question about the universal decapping die... i have seen on the RCBS web site 2 models one 22-25 and the other one 27-45. You say that they are universal, so i dont understand why there are 2 references... please, can you give some light on this?? Regards from Spain!
They list two of them. Mine is the smaller of the two. The most practical difference is the diameter of the stem. The smaller one can be used for 223, the bigger one can't.
Hey what are your guys thoughts about using a regular fl Redding die without the expander ball to size then a mandrel die to set neck tention? Is this better than just a bushing die? Will it over work my brass? All I have right now is fl non bushing die.
Blake Killam I don’t think any combination with a FL die will keep the brass from work hardening as much as a bushing die. I would not use a separate mandrel in either die. The tapered button works just fine.
Even though its been 3yrs since this video came out, i like watching them again just to remind me of things every once in awhile.
Some peoples knowledge is just worth watching more than once. Thank you Sam, for such great educational videos.
This is GOLD. Your videos should be included with every reloading kit sold.
Where was all of this info 15 years ago.. great info thank you happy shooting.
I feel as though I've been doing the process incorrectly, or at least not as accurately as I could have been, for the last 30 years. Yeah, I don't live under a rock and have seen these bushing dies in the catalogs, but I didn't understand quite 'get it'.
Agreed
His videos go a little behind what is needed for the average beginner reloader to get started.
Beginners out there who have watched this series...you have no idea how lucky you are that there is this wealth of information out there for you to access. For free. I started reloading on my own about 10 years ago and had to learn much of this the hard way.
The only advice I would give to you that I switched to a few years back would be to your cleaning process. I also deprime and then tumble, but I've started wet tumbling with stainless media about a year ago. I feel like this would be an adequate substitute to you having to clean the pockets and necks out by hand and would probably do just as good a job with the same results. After that I resize, dry tumble, trim, etc much the same as you have shown. I know it's another investment in money but would probably save you time on that lot of 300 that you're working with. Maybe delay carpel tunnel onset a little as well.
But again, awesome video series. Especially for those just getting into the reloading hobby. Excellent info and nicely put together.
I agree on the cleaning, I deprime with a univ. redding decapping die, then wet tumble for 30-45 min. with SS pins. The brass comes out looking 99% new. I use dawn and a pinch of lemi-shine. Then dry them off with the air compressor, lube, size, and wet clean again for 25-30 min. to get the lube off, dry, prime, load.
@@jonathanm1854 As you probably already know the active ingredient in Lemi-Shine is citric acid. If you'd like to save a little $$ you can buy food grade citric acid powder from your favorite brewing or wine making supply house.
I've watched this video series three times over the last five years😂 Where Have You Been Sam I miss you!
Sam, I can’t say thank you enough for these videos. I rewatch them from time to time as a refresher before loading up another batch. You have a way of explaining things and sharing your knowledge that makes it very easy to understand and put into practice. 👍🏻
I like your idea of knocking out the primers before any measurements and using a bronze bore brush attached to a cordless drill to swipe out each neck. Excellent explanation and comparison of the 2 types of sizing dies!
Thanks Sam. As always, great work. I am a long time reloader of handgun, shotgun and plinking rifle, but new to the precision rifle thing. Fun stuff. Two suggestions to reduce brass prep time compared to your procedure: 1) Wet tumble with stainless steel pins after depriming. No need to manually do primer pockets or inside and then outside of neck. 2) Rather than trim and then chamfer and debur inside and outside of top edge of neck by hand, do trimming on Henderson Precision trimmer. It trims, chamfers and deburs in one step. Pretty slick.
Steve Truitt I agree, wet tumbling with steel pins will save a lot of time. I use a Dillon power trimmer/sizer but this requires me to chamber and debur, I’ll look into the Henderson unit.
I put a small plastic in the neck before i spray them , I got them at a hydraulic shop they fit inside the case , they come in all sizes , metric or s.a.e. Really enjoy your videos . You tell it like it is......Love it............
Appreciate your knowledge & video on reloading. I’ve just come back to reloading after an absence of 14yrs. Great to see detailed, use and advice of use and brands you use and recommend. Thank you for your patience and advice. Best regards Nik from Australia🇦🇺
I reckon this is one of the most important and most valuable of all the lessons I have watched so far. Learning from the master is the best way.
Load development series is excellent Sam. Truly the most detailed I have seen on youtube. Looking forward to that Mec press review. Check out a stainless tumbler if you get a chance. The pins are small enough that they clean the primer pocket when you tumble brass. This really helped me speed up my reloading process and the brass looks amazing afterwards.
Im not a long range ,precision shooter but I enjoy reloading all my rifle and pistol ammo. Your channel is a great source of interesting, clearly presented information much of wich I can put to use. My first and only powered case prep center is the Frankfort Arsenal. I de-crimp and clean primer pockets, chamfer, brush case necks if needed. Best of all the trimmer is done off the shoulder and is very consistant. Also a Big time saver.
You have me considering the MEC now. Rockchucker is great bu the decapping is messy.
Finally figured out how to get the shoulder bump. Some folks make it sound so complicated...Thanks
This series has been fantastic! Thank you sir!!
As Alwas, your opinion is very much respected. Have you ever thought of writing a Book. I would definitely be your first customer. Keep up the good word. Be safe and shoot straight.
Would buy the book
Love your series, both last and this years , straight to the point , simple for a new loader such as myself ( 4 months ) I just decided to treat myself to a Mitutoyo 500-196-30 and my goodness what a difference , been using some not cheap but mid level calipers and can def see and feel the difference . no more jumping around numbers , having to play with the cartridge to find the rerading/ consistency . Like it so much I have another on the way lol ... keep doing these vids/series Sam , the are the best on BoobTube !!!
You really explained why I decap before I do anything to the brass. People have always wondered why.
Thanks for posting this Sam, excellent detailed information.
I like your approach. Realistic and repeatable.
Great series. You are a gifted teacher. I have done so much better on the range after I started using the Hornady Bullet Comparator and the Sinclair Bump Gauge. I have always done well with reloading, but this series has given me knowledge and confidence in my work. I know get under 2.5 MOA in my hunting rifles, shooting of a sand bag at the range. I get the same while leaning against a 6x6 post of the overhead roof at the range. When I use my Caldwell Lead Sled, it is MOA with my 270 Win. So so with the 30-06. Also a big thanks for increasing my bullet OCD. It takes so much more time to be perfect.
Just a suggestion. I also use the Little Crow Trimmer (mounted on a drill press). I keep one case with the desired length in the trimmer box for each caliber, so next time I need to move the cutter, I just replace the chamber, put the case, move the cutter until it touches the case and tight the hex. Perfect length every time.
Seen a DIY induction annealer that does cases at 1.5 seconds each. Controllable to .01 second and pause between cycles set at whatever duration you want. Cost approximately $200-$250.
I have the ANNEALEEZ II but the speed /accuracy and set up time at which this DIY accomplishes it is amazing. Don't see how AMP can stay in business.
Man I am glad I moved to a Giraud power trimmer years ago, I sure don't miss having to trim then chamfer and debur. If you do not want to spend the cash on a power trimmer Giraud's Tri-way does the same thing trim to length chamfer and debur all in one shot as well.
FT42 Yep, it’s been on the wish list for awhile!👍🏻
FT42 I went with the little crow WFT, I was able to get one for each caliber I shoot (223, 6.5Gren, 6.5CM, 260, 6.5-284, 308, 300WinMag) and STILL was cheaper than a Giraud for just one caliber.
As a beginner im worry too much for not important stuff but after watch your video i got the confidence
Excellent video. Great desertification all brass prep process and sequence. Would have liked to see of the trimmer was adjusted for depth of cut.
Wow! You guy though some great information. Precision is the key to an accurate shot. A lot of new shooters think by buying some "match" ammo and sticking it in there gun they are going to get good accuracy but that is not always the case. Reloading is fun but it is work. More work than just pulling the trigger. Do it right the first time and every time and you will eventually get a load that works for you.
Absolutely one of the best videos on the process!
I like how you involve Jake, train em young:) Good Video!
Thank you so much for what you do brother! I love watching ALL of your reloading videos! YOU are such a pro! Its a pleasure to learn from you! I dont have anyone to teach me these things and I appreciate you sharing all ov that information... really useful! I just got started reloading this year. I am very new to this but I love it and I am learning from you and from few other grate guyz on youtube haha! Love you man! Thank you for all the info and sharing your knowledge and your wisdom!
Thanks for the detailed video! New to rifle reloading and this is by far the best detailed precision reloading video!
I have watched a number of videos on the subject of resizing brass. There seems to be different views on lubricating brass. Some say to lube the whole case and others say only lube the body and avoid getting lube on the neck and shoulder at all costs. The main reason seems to be to avoid putting dents in the shoulder area when sizing. Cheers from Australia.
Good stuff Sam, and good luck in the upcoming PRS matches.
Richard UK used a Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler with stainless media. Dry tumbler is a Cabelas vide tumbler and i use walnut shell media
I hope you have found a steel pin tumbler. No more tedious brass cleaning by hand. The pins clean out primer pockets and necks. Cleans inside of the brass totally. Saves many hours.
Sam, you reminded me of my dad when you said "How do you like that press Jake?" My dad had a habit of asking me how I liked something that he Really liked. Good stuff!
I uhh
Just alittle note, I picked up a little drill press at a yard sale and yes it is right on my reloading bench and It has cleaned thousands of brass
I use drill press with a Lee decapper and base. Put the pin in the chuck and the base in the vise. Works like a champ to do my decapping.
Thank you for all the time you spend making these videos, it is surely appreciated.
Another informative video. You have addressed every question I had about Fl dies,neck tension,run out,cleaning lube out of neck,etc. You are the man. The MEC press and Little Crow trimmer are nice.
I run Forster dies and tried the same thing of setting up the full length sizer to just bump 2 thousandths. It seemed I was having a hard time getting consistent measurements. I felt like dragging the mandrel back out of the neck it was sometime pulling the shoulder back out. I went to Forster bump neck bushing die and it seems work more consistently.
Great video, Frankford arsenal trim and prep center has worked wonders for me. Actually trims very precisely and cuts time by more than half.
I picked up the lyman 5 position case prep system. For the cost and accesories that come with it.
I use Wilson Neck dies and Redding Body dies for resizing, I also deprime all the cases first as you do for the same reason.
Great detailed video! I really like the frankford arsenal prep station. I found i was able to do more steps at once and cut down time on reloading. I'm able to trim, i/o debur and uniform the primer pockets all in one step. It just might be what your looking for. Trimmer works off the shoulder similar to the one you are using. Enjoy your videos
Cheers
Thanks for the video - I was hopeful you were going to use the Redding competition die set and show an end to end process video but this does help fill in some gaps prior to me getting started.
I de-prime, then tumble in Frankford Armory with stainless pins. I add 1/4 cup Real lemon juice and 2 tea spoons of dawn. Brass comes out like new inside and out. No need to clean the primer cavity or neck. Then I FL size holding .001-.002 bump, clean in corn com tumble then anneal on my Anealeze.
Great video especially for us who are not beginners to reloading for accuracy. I have a few questions to ask’ but will let that go for another time. Thanks for this video.
You mention the "cratering" of primers. I found my Rem 700, the firing pin had worn the bolt and was "wandering". I had the bolt machined a bushing installed, problem solved. Note: the thing that threw me for awhile was none of the typical signs of overpressure. The problem developed firing factory loads of Hornady and Federal match ammo.
Great video series. Keep up the good work.
This is, as far as I can recall, the most detailed video yet. Truly a masterpiece. Now, I'm sort of confuse as to whether a neck expander die with the appropriate mandrel is needed, as stated on the video where you talk about it and show how to use it. I get the impression that if one uses a bushing die the neck expander die is not needed, is that the case? I'm confused. Again, thanks for all the time and effort you put into these videos; it's much appreciated.
I don't use an expander with the bushing die. The expander has to be used with the standard die.
Annealing brass would be the only thing you didn't do! Great instructional.. WOW
One of the best vids I’ve seen
Another great video! I just got the Lyman case prep center and am pretty happy with it. It's quiet and nicely laid out. But you might not need it if you switched to wet tumbling, no more primer pockets to clean out :-)
The problem I have when I clean the brass, is that there is always some corn cob stuck in the flash hole. How do you deal with that problem? Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.
I got sick of cleaning the necks and primer pockets. I decap and then wet tumble in stainless steel media. I will never go back. It saves a lot of time and manual labor. Great video thank you for making it.
I've been really happy with my lyman prep station.
Wow, that's precision. I used to only check for the maximum and case trim length dimensions. I'm going to have to rethink precision in the rifle calibers I reload.
Deprime and then wet tumble with steel pin media. Gets the primer pockets nice and shiny.
I always enjoy watching your videos. It seems I learn something new every time thanks for all your hard work we appreciate it..Shoot em straight
Learned lot of things sir. Thankyou very much and a warm hug
You really need to look into a rotary tumbler with stainless media. It cleans everything. Primer pockets and cases are perfectly clean and the media lasts forever.
Great video got some good info just joined your page to learn more .thanks for doing all these videos.
You did a great job. You really gave me so great ideas. Thank you.
GOOD stuff ol'pard I sure like looks of your lathe I sure would like to get 2 barrels cut 1/2 28 cost ??
Enjoy watching you. Do you anneal after you size and trim the brass ? or before? any advise appreciate by others. TIA
@@roubensarian2993 I anneal before sizing.
If, for whatever reason the neck of the case or cases is bent or dented to start with, removing the expander ball and then neck sizing with the neck bushing and die only, will not make it round again. The bullet will be deformed imho in seating process because of the bend on the inside of the neck.Thanks for the great video.
I have come to love your channel. Thanks for content.
Really appreciate these videos.
Hello Sam, got everything down except one detail, and maybe I just missed what you said. When trimming brass, what measurement do you go by, SAAMI specks, or another measurement?
What is the drill chuck you are using when you use a chamber brush to clean the inside of the neck?
Thanks for all the videos Sam, your practical approach in explaining things is the best so far I've seen in youtube.. On the other note, I'm surprised you haven't gotten into SS pins wet tumbler yet. It would eliminate a couple of steps in the beginning of the video.
I believe you trimmed your resized brass .010. It seemed like you didn’t seem too concerned about the trim length. Just curious if you have a number that you want be below fired length.
Another great video..I always seem to learn something from you.....Thanks.
I stopped using tumblers and vibrators and went to ultrasonic cleaning. Have you tried it ?
Yup I use a universal decaping die as well best choice quick.
Do you have large rifle, or small rifle, primer pockets? I have small, and cannot find a part number to convert my RCBS Decap Die .22-.25 to decap the small primer pockets.
@@colinlowe31 I use a lee universal decaping die doesn't matter on the size of pocket
This is a very helpful video. Thanks for that
I wonder if the RCBS 3-way cutter, or something similar, could be made to work in the WFT to eliminate the need to separately deburr and chamfer?
Fantastic series, thank you!
What about wet tumbling after decapping? Good? Bad? It does clean the brass nicely before resizing.
Sam, I just started to watch your videos. Am reloading a .308 using Lapua brass. I took my measurement for new brass, then I fire the brass and remeasure the brass the way you show. For example, my shoulder read 1.6230 after firing it read 1.625. Yes I am using the same tools. Same way I measure before. The length of the brass. A.O.L was 2.009 after firing it when to 2.006. Everything else increase. Am I doing something wrong. It’s this normal for new brass or need to fire couple of times
Wonderful information! Thank you
Lots of great clear info for all reloaders. I actually started this video looking for experienced info on reloading nickled rifle cases. Do you have a vid or article about this issue? Thank you.
Thanks Sam
Sam, thanks for the detailed videos. I have been handloading since i was 13, so almost 20 years. But i have learned a ton from you recently. Do you clean media dust out of brass after final tumbling? If so, how?
Nope. The first couple of cycles with new media is the worst, but I don't do anything other than shake the brass really well when it's in the separator.
Thank you for your time
thank you sir I just retired and getting back into reloading. I recently acquired a rem 700 in .243 low number but very good cond. could you suggest a full L sizing die?
Curious why you didn't use your competition dies.....would they have given 'better' results for you and if so in what aspect? I know these vids are time consuming but I'm here to shout out a big thank you for all that work. So informative and interesting!! Thanks again!
panhandleprecision.com/redding-reloading-dies-sizing/
Hey Sam what do you think about a 7mm WSM as a long range rifle caliber, have a rem 700 bel with a low usage shield bull barrel
Good video Sam. I have a few good loads worked up on new brass following this series. Couple questions as I move into fired brass : what tweeks do you expect to make to your good loads with new brass when they are loaded into fired brass ? What changes do you expect to see in a load when it’s in once fired vs new brass - lower ES, lower SD, tighter precision ?
I almost always see better precision, but the velocity changes vary. I have a few strings out now, but not enough side by side comparisons to tell. I'm kind of shotgunning changes now because I'm in a hurry.:-)
I love my mec marksman, very minimal runout, like I said in another video, I installed a hornady bushing kit so I can change my dies in matter of seconds, no more die adjustment setups, I notice you didn’t uniform flash holes do you have any information about this some people say in good brass like lapua there is no need but some cheaper brass the flash holes are punched.
I clean up WW and Rem brass, mostly because it helps keep media from hanging up in the flash holes on those cases. I see no need on Lapua or Alpha brass.
I have a question on the RCBS decapping dies
One is 22 to 25 for size
The other is 27 to 45
Do I need to buy one dye for my 223
And a separate die for my 9mm through 44 and 45
You said one day is good for 22 through 45, that is not how they have them listed
Pretty darn cool, i have been wanting to start reloading my own casings for two reason i shoot a lot, and i Dont Ever want to be tied at the hip with anyone when it comes to being able to access Ammo. I have the feeling it might not be long and they will be pushing for Very Tuff Firearm Law restricting how we Ammunition because they will never get so they can take our Firearms. Thank you very much for this ammo.
GREAT VIDEO! QUESTION: you seem to only very lightly hit the trimmed necks with the chamfer and deburring, where I find myself needing several seconds on a powered deburring set up to get the edge to not catch my skin/fingernail. What am I doing wrong that you can achieve the same thing with 2 little finger turns by hand? Or are we chasing different results?? Thanks!
Hey Sam, first time reloader here. I got 100 pieces of brass FL sized but had a couple screw ups. My question is what should I do with the 10 pieces of brass that are .005 shorter than the rest? Thanks!
Hi Sam! thanks for your videos! Your channel is one of the best on youtube about reloading. I have one question about the universal decapping die... i have seen on the RCBS web site 2 models one 22-25 and the other one 27-45. You say that they are universal, so i dont understand why there are 2 references... please, can you give some light on this??
Regards from Spain!
They list two of them. Mine is the smaller of the two. The most practical difference is the diameter of the stem. The smaller one can be used for 223, the bigger one can't.
Panhandle Precision Thanks!!
Hey Sam......Please do not have your shirt sleeves flipped up while running your lathe. I have seen what can happen.......It will mess up you day.
Well done Sam.
I find that the .308 Lapua cases are not always the same length to the shoulder and can vary one to two thou. So is the bump 2 thou off the average?
Great video, thanks for sharing
Great information. Thank you sir
Hey what are your guys thoughts about using a regular fl Redding die without the expander ball to size then a mandrel die to set neck tention? Is this better than just a bushing die? Will it over work my brass? All I have right now is fl non bushing die.
Blake Killam I don’t think any combination with a FL die will keep the brass from work hardening as much as a bushing die. I would not use a separate mandrel in either die. The tapered button works just fine.