Excellent: Clickable outline: 2:00 Visual Inspection of Cases 2:25 Weight Sorting Cases? 4:42 Measurements of Virgin Brass 6:35 Expanding Case Necks 8:25 No Need to Full-Length Body Size 9:30 Bevel/Chamfer Case Mouths 10:15 Prime Cases 11:00 Neck Turning? 13:05 Measuring Neck Runout
Thank you for your straight talk and common sense approach. Some of these other reloading videos on TH-cam go so far to the extreme that if you are not a professional competition shooter who has won the lottery, you can not relate to the person making the video and they can not relate to their audience!
Sam makes some of the best instructional videos out there. Very practical manner of educating reloaders. You would be hard pressed to find better on the internet. Thanks Sam.
I realized that I am weighing in on this very late but I just want to say that results driven efforts are the way to go in the world of precision shooting. Identify your objective and align your efforts to achieve it. You will learn along the way what processes get you there and which ones don't matter. I love this comprehensive video series!
Sam, Just rewatched this video. I particularly like you common sense approach to precision reloading. I tend to go a bid overboard at first and then discard time wasting steps. Your vid's let me eliminate some steps up front.
Love your videos man. I just wish I would of gotten into the sport at a younger age. I love when your boy is in the videos. The think with having an expensive hobby and being young, You CANT Afford it. But now that I’m a bid older an can somewhat afford it, I do it for my 2 Boys. Maybe someday, they’ll shoot as well as you. Thank you for inspiring us. Keep that kid of your sharp, and safe.
I'm excited about this series. I'm doing load development right now with my 6.5CM Howa 1500. I'd say 50% of my total reloading knowledge has come from you, Sam. I like all the info about getting it to shoot 1/2MOA and be done, but since this is my first rifle, I want to go all the way thru the load development process and find the absolute best load, just for the complete experience.
Thanks for answering a question I had about new brass being . 010 smaller than the chamber starting out , I payed attention the second time I watched. Lol
Greetings from Sweden, Sam, some have it... then again some don´t... The ability to make things understandable. You´re my Guru when it comes to realoding.
At 13:15 you demo the Sinclair tool doing runout checks. Functionally, the important runout is neck ID -to- outside surface of shoulder (or the conical section). The conical section locates the case body radially in the rifle chamber, line-to-line, with the conical section of the chamber, when the bolt is closed, and ejector pin is holding the case body forward in the chamber. PS: Thanks for your efforts in developing a truly professional grade of videos for the aspiring precision rifle shooter, reloading ammo. Your lecture/teaching skills are very good, yet not intimidating.
Thanks, Sam. I appreciate that you are will to teach us your techniques of reloading. I myself will start reloading soon. This is because California has band us from buying ammo on line. Also this will help me get more involved in Precision Shooting. Again thank you. 👍🏽😎
Mr. Sam. Enjoyed, and found this video help full for beginner. Printed off article on this same subject matter. Can't wait to read it. Thank f or making this information available. Have a great day. Everett
Sam thanks for showing us new guys what to do right from the beginning of the reloading process with brand new brass and a new rifle etc. I am just trying to get started in to reloading and have searched the web for hours trying to find an expert that will show me the process right from the very beginning with what is needed. very eagerly waiting for your next episode. Thanks.
This is going to be a great series! Glad to hear I'm not the only 260 Rem guy remaining. I recently experienced exactly what you were saying about the new Lapua brass starting out with a small neck diameter. I ended up using the neck expander button to open it up. -- Todd
I have been subscribed to your channel for while but just now really started watching your reloading videos and I have enjoyed and learned a lot from them. Thanks and I plan to watch every one eventually.
Im exited aswell! Just ordered a .260 Rem and was just on your homepage looking at your loads, this series gonna be awsome! Thank you i love your videos.
I just want to say thank you. I start in reloading, and it‘s a whole knowledge in itself, as much as shooting. But but works together. I like the way you validate what has an effetc and what‘s not: why spend time on something that causes no improvement in accuracy and consistency?
Excellent! I have a brand new (as yet) unfired Bergara B-14 HMR in 6.5 Creedmoor. I've been hand loading since the 70's and always up to learn more. Good info here. Thanks!
A great vid mate. thanks. Plain common sense approach to the job. (almost identicle to my own lol ) Lapua brass, loaded through Sinclair tools with quality Berger projectiles in a well chambered quality barrel = results on target without any fussing about.
In addition to what he pointed out regarding prep for weighing cases, after forming, cutting, and deburring, then I uniform primer pockets and primer holes. THEN they're exactly the same xcpt wall thickness only
Thanks for demonstrating the use of the Sinclair Expander die. I always use one when beginning with new brass, particularly belted mag brass. However, I'm interested in preventing the initial case stretch that always happens with new brass. I neck up one or two sizes, depending on how far apart they are, then FL size down just until the bolt closes with a fair amount of resistance. This, along with proper annealing, will prolong the brass life immensely. I've watched a few of your vids now and you know how to get across the information very well. Will be subscribing in two clicks.
If your loading blocks are heavy and are kind of slick to the touch, they're likely made from an acetal resin based polymer called Delrin. ..and Thanks for the great videos!
Excited to see this new load development series! Just got a new 6.5 CM rifle and want to work up a load around the parameters that you shared in terms of a strong accuracy node and a relatively low ES. Thanks for putting out great content!
Agreed, 😊I do normal prep on my Lapua brass and just shoot it. I shoot 6.5X47 with a 140 gr Berger hybrid , 41.0 gr of AA4350, A CCI 450 primer and I’m getting an average of 2686 and an SD of 10. That works out to a one hole group at 200 meters!
The problem I have when I clean the brass, is that there is always some corn cob stuck in the flash hole. How do you deal with that problem? Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.😮💨
This series is absolutely awesome. I can't wait till the next video I thought I was the only one anal about handloading. Believe it or not the best brass that I have reloaded for my Remington model 700 7mm magnum... Has been the cheap Monarch brand from Academy Sports. They don't have it anymore sadly but 10 years ago I bought a ton of it just because it was so much cheaper than Winchester or Remington or Hornady. Accuracy was okay but when I started reloading is where I saw the difference. I didn't have to do much trimming or resizing... I just clean the primer pocket And used a hand tool to deburr the neck. And the brass was within dimensions that's in the lyman reloading book. Granted I wasn't doing this for match or precision shooting.... But with a consistent powder charge being within 1 or half a grain difference. I narrowed my group to one inch at a hundred yards and had a consistent velocity averaging 2987 feet per second. 100 yards is sadly the limit where I live. Also back then I was just getting started being serious about shooting.... I was as green as you could be.Lol! I'm just wondering how much throat erosion I caused in that rifle.
john harvey monarch is also the best ketchup you can buy , and I am not joking, I have never seen that kind of brass and I have reloaded since the sixties, but make no mistake, what ever works in a rifle,, use it , that’s what everyone does, this panhandle guy is a reloading genius, no doubt, his tricks of the trade are the best I’ve seen, as for your old 7 mm Remington magnum no matter how much throat erosion you have , you will always be able to find something to shoot good in it , but I will tell you this , some of my old rifles only shoot good groups with a perfect bullet seating depth , accompanied by a maximum charge of powder , the low powered loads are better grouped by a new barrel , so spend most of your time on the hot end of the powder scale.
Third video of yours that I've watched. Very enjoyable. Looking at your bench, I can see that you're also going broke with all money you're saving by not buying factory ammo
At around 13:00, you say you don't bother turning necks, which is fair enough. But a lot of guys will have chambers with tight necks, and for them it will be necessary to turn them to avoid chambering problems and potentially dangerous pressures. I think that's worth pointing out.
Want to thank you for recommending the savage 12 lrp I love it really love your videos what then over and over again Have learned so much from you love the way you give your reasons for using dies doing certain things looking forward to your new videos thank you so much
Your videos are awesome in detail precise and easy to relate to. Got 308 and thought about the lopua brass offers a small or large primer case what's the difference between the two.
Really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge with us, a great testament to your character. Especially appreciate your thoroughness and attention to detail without letting us get stuck in the things that don't matter. I'm just starting to think about getting into precision shooting and loading. I don't want to drop 3-4k just yet on a new custom rifle, but I do have a Savage Model 16 in .270 WSM that consistently shoots sub-minute groups at 100 yds. But I haven't truly done any load development for it. Would love to know your opinion on setting up a .270 WSM as a long range rifle?
Well done! Can’t wait to see the next video. I’m a new reloader and I’ve been trying to come up with a starting charge for a 300 win mag using 215 Bergers. My COAL is 0.300” longer than the SAAMI load info Berger supplied. Not sure how to compensate for the pressure change.
I must have got lucky l guess. I brought my M77 home with two boxes of factory loads put a 4x Leupold on it took it outside on a target boresighted shot it in . Game over. Saved the brass necked it load was 180 gr. Hornady 73 gr. IMR 4831. It was shooting 2inches or better . Sometimes better if l really worked at it ha ha. Never took the caps off that scope in 40 yrs ha ha🇨🇦🤠
I love your videos, quick question do I prep my second fired brass the same way as the video you did on once fired brass? I need help because the brass are all different measurements after once fired because I was using different loads and bullets, you mentioned bump the shoulder back 2000s but all my shoulders are different lengths from the ones fired brass
Hi Sam. Started loading 6,5x55, and after a lot of Your videos about brass handling: - Why press the brass back to a fabrik size when it after a shot is formed exactly to the chamber in my Sauer 202? When resicing it/pressing it smaller I am stressing the brass, when shot it is stressed back to the chamber size, so again resize it back to a standard and again shot/expand it again, and again, and again. Why not just skip the recising and keep it the dimesjons the chamber makes it, as long as it goes smoth in and out? Dag from Norway
Great video, I don't think sorting brass by weight is worth the time. But for a different reason than you offered. Most the weight variance in a case is in the case head and that has very little to do with case volume. That being said if you have the time and energy to check cases then you're better off checking concentricity
Love this video. I have a hard time building loads off brass that hasn't yet been fire formed to the chamber of the specific rifle. It seems wasteful, but I'll take new lapua brass and a moderate load with the cheapest bullet possible and just fire form them so I have a baseline. Either that, or use some factory Nosler ammo and start my loads with fired brass. Am I crazy?
I ran a ladder test with new Lapua brass and 245 berger eol (300NM) and had great success finding a sweet spot however, when I loaded the once fired brass with that same charge weight, I was seeing overpressure signs. After asking around, I was told not to load test rounds in new brass. All the other variables that we could think of were ruled out. If you have any thoughts, it'd be appreciated
I hear ya. My BFF and hunting buddy for over 30 years who actually got me into shooting centerfire rifles does all this stuff and works up loads to get 0.016975034673944 groups, etc. etc. I just buy a couple boxes of the cheapest off the counter commercial ammo I can find for my caliber, shoot it to fireform to the chamber, clean, trim, debur, etc. etc. work up load, like you, til I'm at .5 or .6 MOA at 100 yards and I out-shoot 95% of the guys I run into at the range that have LRP Rifle Platforms. I don't mean to brag but I usu outshoot them with their own rifles too, lol. I then buy some bulk brass and process it (I don't weigh and measure, etc. just clean, FL resize, debut, trim, etc. shoot and, of course, reload the fire formed brass multiple times with my custom load. My buddy buys custom made rifles for $3.000 and I buy a Remington, Winchester, Weatherby rifle off the shelf, bed, float and trigger job and, so far, I've been lucky and have always been able to get them to shoot .75MOA or better. I've never had to replace a factory trigger just tune it up. I'll accept up to 1 MOA on a Big Game Rifle but NOT a Target or Varmint Rifle (I moa on a Prairie Dog at 300+ yards could easily be a miss). But, hey, each to his own.
I know that you measured several dimensions on the Lapula brass. Are they all within the case's overall length specs or did you have to trim them to length?
Sam, thanks so much for this video. Very helpful. I notice quite a lot of bullets on that top shelf. How many do you usually like to keep per caliber and bullet. I just attended a long range class and needed about 260 rounds.
I'm going to load my own hunting cartridges. My goal is to load a cartridge that will shoot 1.25 @ 100 yards. Nothing special I know, but do you think a hornady custom full length SIZING die will do it's part to aid me in getting there?
How many fires before your shoulders have moved enough to bump them? The way I am understanding your process, you expand your necks up to get 0.001 tension since Lapua is so undersized. Also it’s about 0.0155” wall thickness. Do you neck size before trimming and chamfering? Bushing die, neck only, (not full since we want the shoulder to get where we can bump them all the same). Once trimmed, if you neck turned would this be the time or wait until the shoulder has maxed out before neck turning? Thank you for your feedback.
Nice video! You are correct, no sense expending time, money, energy and frustration on procedures that do not give any or very little net gains. That time, money and energy would be much more valuable if spent by actually SHOOTING and developing ones marksmanship skills with that particular rifle and load. Real world in the field DOPE will IMHO trump spending weeks or months chasing that last tenth of a inch in possible accuracy. The human factor could have been improved by many times that in the same time span just by systematic training in real world scenarios. I know many may not want to concede or admit this is the best way to better overall performance. We as human beings are most of the time the weakest link in a shooting system if the rest of the system is top shelf.
I am just getting into Rifle Loading, I am starting off with .223/5.56 for ARs, I will be loading .308 for a M1A Socom and a Rem 700. I realize this is a old video, but do you recommend full length resize for the M1A verse a neck size. I only ask as I have read that neck resize is OKAY for bolt action, but full length resize is recommended for autoloader. I am looking to work with the 168gr. Also, I might just buy some Bulk bullets to keep the cost down. I don't do any serious target shooting (competition) or any hunting, so they can be good enough out to 300 to 400 on steel. Just want to start loading rifle to save some $$. Any info would be appreciated.
I watch your videos all the time they are awesome. I live in a small town and availability of ammunition is limited let alone buying components. I recently bought some hornady ammunition to get once fired brass for my 300 Winchester mag. After sizing they were 4 thousands short of minimum trim length according to my hornady reload manual. Should I toss the all?
Fantastic videos and thank you for sharing your knowledge. New to loading and doing some homework. You mentioned you are trying to achieve 1000th of bullet grip Do you always try and achieve the same grip? Is it dependant on other factors?
Hi Sam, thanks very much, your videos are invaluable. I don't have access to the machine tools to thread a brass cartridge so do you have any recommendation for using the store-bought bullet comparator cartridge?
Great videos Sam I really like how you are right to the point with the reasons why or why not something matters. Are you a second or third generation reloader, or did you figure all this out on your own? I'm just starting out but really enjoy it and appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Dumb question Sam, how do you know when your brass is worn out? I have 10 firings on 200 pieces of brass. My ES is still low and the groups are still at or below 1/2 inch. I anneal and trim after every firing and have had no split necks. But I've noticed the case necks are thinning. Had to go to the next size smaller bushing (.288) to get my neck tension back over .001. Any thoughts?
I watched one of your videos where on your bench you had a set of very fine looking Bondhus T wrenches. I've now had to buy some. Awesome kit arrived this morning. Any other real good tools you can suggest? :-)
im confussed on the (bumping the shoulder issue) do you have a video on this ? plus im trying to put together a load for a 6 mm CM using hornadys 108 ELD M. also what expander ball would you recommend
Instead of running them over an expander mandrel or FL die, would running them through a Lee Collet die expand the necks? I've been told by Lee that the Collet die only gives 0.001 neck tension. Same way to skin a cat or should I just buy an expanding die? Thanks Sam
Great video! I’ve learned SO much from your videos. I have a .308 precision rifle that I learned to reload for long range on and am about to build a precision 300 win mag for hunting. I have never loaded for .300 win mag. What do you think would be some fundamental steps that I will need to include that would be different from .308. I am a reliability new hand loader. I am using Lapua brass and Berger VLD. Thanks so much!
Question sam so I've been loading some 223 handloads with brand new lapua brass.. using redding dies and I recently had 100 handloads that wouldn't chamber at all so I broke the rounds down resized the cases in the full length redding sizing die and then they were fine clambering wise.. any clue what would cause this
I know I am late to this video, but with the Sinclair expanding die are you using this to get your neck tension even after fired? I'm just getting into precision load development and I'm trying to figure out the best way to get the .001 tension on the bullet.
I'm still working through 400 pieces of WW I bought years ago. I have no idea what's available now. I would probably learn to form it from something better if I had to build another 7WSM.
Excellent:
Clickable outline:
2:00 Visual Inspection of Cases
2:25 Weight Sorting Cases?
4:42 Measurements of Virgin Brass
6:35 Expanding Case Necks
8:25 No Need to Full-Length Body Size
9:30 Bevel/Chamfer Case Mouths
10:15 Prime Cases
11:00 Neck Turning?
13:05 Measuring Neck Runout
Thank you for your straight talk and common sense approach. Some of these other reloading videos on TH-cam go so far to the extreme that if you are not a professional competition shooter who has won the lottery, you can not relate to the person making the video and they can not relate to their audience!
Late to the Precision Reloading and Shooting endeavor but what a blessing to find a YT web series such as Sam has put together here.
I've never heard of a "holder of a PhD in reloading" ... but now I know it's a reality.
You and your kid, are a great inspiration. That kid shoots better than I will ever shooting. I love how he isn’t afraid of recoil. BadAss.
Sam makes some of the best instructional videos out there. Very practical manner of educating reloaders. You would be hard pressed to find better on the internet. Thanks Sam.
I realized that I am weighing in on this very late but I just want to say that results driven efforts are the way to go in the world of precision shooting. Identify your objective and align your efforts to achieve it. You will learn along the way what processes get you there and which ones don't matter. I love this comprehensive video series!
Sam,
Just rewatched this video. I particularly like you common sense approach to precision reloading. I tend to go a bid overboard at first and then discard time wasting steps. Your vid's let me eliminate some steps up front.
Love your videos man. I just wish I would of gotten into the sport at a younger age. I love when your boy is in the videos. The think with having an expensive hobby and being young, You CANT Afford it. But now that I’m a bid older an can somewhat afford it, I do it for my 2 Boys. Maybe someday, they’ll shoot as well as you. Thank you for inspiring us. Keep that kid of your sharp, and safe.
I'm excited about this series. I'm doing load development right now with my 6.5CM Howa 1500. I'd say 50% of my total reloading knowledge has come from you, Sam. I like all the info about getting it to shoot 1/2MOA and be done, but since this is my first rifle, I want to go all the way thru the load development process and find the absolute best load, just for the complete experience.
Thanks for answering a question I had about new brass being . 010 smaller than the chamber starting out , I payed attention the second time I watched. Lol
Greetings from Sweden, Sam, some have it... then again some don´t... The ability to make things understandable. You´re my Guru when it comes to realoding.
Are the Swedish chicks still as good looking as they were? Last visited a few years ago, had a great time the people were very friendly.
Yessir, if you start with quality brass like Lapua, Peterson, and Alpha OCD then there's never enough runout to neck turn. Good video
At 13:15 you demo the Sinclair tool doing runout checks. Functionally, the important runout is neck ID -to- outside surface of shoulder (or the conical section). The conical section locates the case body radially in the rifle chamber, line-to-line, with the conical section of the chamber, when the bolt is closed, and ejector pin is holding the case body forward in the chamber.
PS: Thanks for your efforts in developing a truly professional grade of videos for the aspiring precision rifle shooter, reloading ammo. Your lecture/teaching skills are very good, yet not intimidating.
Just getting into reloading so this should be good thanks for taking the time.
Thanks, Sam. I appreciate that you are will to teach us your techniques of reloading. I myself will start reloading soon. This is because California has band us from buying ammo on line. Also this will help me get more involved in Precision Shooting. Again thank you. 👍🏽😎
Wow...California. communist utopia
Mr. Sam. Enjoyed, and found this video help full for beginner. Printed off article on this same subject matter. Can't wait to read it. Thank f or making this information available. Have a great day. Everett
Tahnk you so much for putting these vids together. I for one need this info as I dive into reloading for precision rifle
Sam thanks for showing us new guys what to do right from the beginning of the reloading process with brand new brass and a new rifle etc. I am just trying to get started in to reloading and have searched the web for hours trying to find an expert that will show me the process right from the very beginning with what is needed. very eagerly waiting for your next episode. Thanks.
This is going to be a great series! Glad to hear I'm not the only 260 Rem guy remaining. I recently experienced exactly what you were saying about the new Lapua brass starting out with a small neck diameter. I ended up using the neck expander button to open it up.
-- Todd
I have been subscribed to your channel for while but just now really started watching your reloading videos and I have enjoyed and learned a lot from them. Thanks and I plan to watch every one eventually.
Im exited aswell! Just ordered a .260 Rem and was just on your homepage looking at your loads, this series gonna be awsome! Thank you i love your videos.
I just want to say thank you. I start in reloading, and it‘s a whole knowledge in itself, as much as shooting. But but works together. I like the way you validate what has an effetc and what‘s not: why spend time on something that causes no improvement in accuracy and consistency?
Excellent video Sam. Same process I use on my new Lapua brass. I don’t think I could explain it as good though.
Excellent! I have a brand new (as yet) unfired Bergara B-14 HMR in 6.5 Creedmoor. I've been hand loading since the 70's and always up to learn more. Good info here. Thanks!
A great vid mate. thanks.
Plain common sense approach to the job. (almost identicle to my own lol )
Lapua brass, loaded through Sinclair tools with quality Berger projectiles in a well chambered quality barrel = results on target without any fussing about.
In addition to what he pointed out regarding prep for weighing cases, after forming, cutting, and deburring, then I uniform primer pockets and primer holes. THEN they're exactly the same xcpt wall thickness only
Thanks for demonstrating the use of the Sinclair Expander die. I always use one when beginning with new brass, particularly belted mag brass. However, I'm interested in preventing the initial case stretch that always happens with new brass. I neck up one or two sizes, depending on how far apart they are, then FL size down just until the bolt closes with a fair amount of resistance. This, along with proper annealing, will prolong the brass life immensely. I've watched a few of your vids now and you know how to get across the information very well. Will be subscribing in two clicks.
If your loading blocks are heavy and are kind of slick to the touch, they're likely made from an acetal resin based polymer called Delrin. ..and Thanks for the great videos!
Lapua brass really is the best I've used. Love it especially in 6.5x55.
Love the vids man. I’m just getting into PRS and living in a smaller community, videos like this are critical. Thank you.
Thank you. I'm new at this reloading stuff.
don't forget after reloading a brass a few times anneal it so it won't split and you can keep reusing it.
Excited to see this new load development series! Just got a new 6.5 CM rifle and want to work up a load around the parameters that you shared in terms of a strong accuracy node and a relatively low ES. Thanks for putting out great content!
Agreed, 😊I do normal prep on my Lapua brass and just shoot it. I shoot 6.5X47 with a 140 gr Berger hybrid , 41.0 gr of AA4350, A CCI 450 primer and I’m getting an average of 2686 and an SD of 10. That works out to a one hole group at 200 meters!
Really enjoy your videos and the knowledge transfer you provide. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise.
The problem I have when I clean the brass, is that there is always some corn cob stuck in the flash hole. How do you deal with that problem? Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.😮💨
Thank you for your help in the E-mail again Sam. Keep the videos and information coming very helpful and knowledgeable. Thanks again from Oregon.
Can't wait to watch this whole series! You are great at explaining every step.
This series is absolutely awesome. I can't wait till the next video I thought I was the only one anal about handloading.
Believe it or not the best brass that I have reloaded for my Remington model 700 7mm magnum... Has been the cheap Monarch brand from Academy Sports. They don't have it anymore sadly but 10 years ago I bought a ton of it just because it was so much cheaper than Winchester or Remington or Hornady. Accuracy was okay but when I started reloading is where I saw the difference. I didn't have to do much trimming or resizing... I just clean the primer pocket And used a hand tool to deburr the neck. And the brass was within dimensions that's in the lyman reloading book. Granted I wasn't doing this for match or precision shooting.... But with a consistent powder charge being within 1 or half a grain difference. I narrowed my group to one inch at a hundred yards and had a consistent velocity averaging 2987 feet per second. 100 yards is sadly the limit where I live. Also back then I was just getting started being serious about shooting.... I was as green as you could be.Lol! I'm just wondering how much throat erosion I caused in that rifle.
john harvey (0
john harvey monarch is also the best ketchup you can buy , and I am not joking,
I have never seen that kind of brass and I have reloaded since the sixties, but make no mistake, what ever works in a rifle,, use it , that’s what everyone does, this panhandle guy is a reloading genius, no doubt, his tricks of the trade are the best I’ve seen, as for your old 7 mm Remington magnum no matter how much throat erosion you have , you will always be able to find something to shoot good in it , but I will tell you this , some of my old rifles only shoot good groups with a perfect bullet seating depth , accompanied by a maximum charge of powder , the low powered loads are better grouped by a new barrel , so spend most of your time on the hot end of the powder scale.
Excellent advice on weighing cases. Made a note of that. Thanks
Thanks Sam again straight forwards nice and easy to understand looking foreword to the next one. Uk
Thank you! These are the most comprehensive series of reloading videos.
New sub..Bought my new 260rem...now time 2 work out 1/4 in groups..😁😎🇦🇺
Thanks mate. Well pieced together information and shared in a way that just plain makes sense. Cheers.
Great vid Sam and timing couldnt be better! Just getting my new PRS rifle in 260 ready with a brand new load.
Third video of yours that I've watched. Very enjoyable.
Looking at your bench, I can see that you're also going broke with all money you're saving by not buying factory ammo
This channel is great!!! Another a+ video definitely going to Binge watch.
Top Stuff and look forwards towards the balance of the series thanks for sharing.
I did , I am learning from you , you are top class , great teacher
Very helpful. Thank you.
Great video as always. You keep put out great content. I’m going to start hand loading because you. Can’t wait.
At around 13:00, you say you don't bother turning necks, which is fair enough. But a lot of guys will have chambers with tight necks, and for them it will be necessary to turn them to avoid chambering problems and potentially dangerous pressures. I think that's worth pointing out.
Want to thank you for recommending the savage 12 lrp I love it really love your videos what then over and over again Have learned so much from you love the way you give your reasons for using dies doing certain things looking forward to your new videos thank you so much
Great work buddy and thanks for the info.... keep well
Your videos are awesome in detail precise and easy to relate to. Got 308 and thought about the lopua brass offers a small or large primer case what's the difference between the two.
Really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge with us, a great testament to your character. Especially appreciate your thoroughness and attention to detail without letting us get stuck in the things that don't matter. I'm just starting to think about getting into precision shooting and loading. I don't want to drop 3-4k just yet on a new custom rifle, but I do have a Savage Model 16 in .270 WSM that consistently shoots sub-minute groups at 100 yds. But I haven't truly done any load development for it. Would love to know your opinion on setting up a .270 WSM as a long range rifle?
Well done! Can’t wait to see the next video. I’m a new reloader and I’ve been trying to come up with a starting charge for a 300 win mag using 215 Bergers. My COAL is 0.300” longer than the SAAMI load info Berger supplied. Not sure how to compensate for the pressure change.
Add more slow- burning powder. Slowly...:-)
Great info, been loading for about 20 years.
I must have got lucky l guess. I brought my M77 home with two boxes of factory loads put a 4x Leupold on it took it outside on a target boresighted shot it in . Game over. Saved the brass necked it load was 180 gr. Hornady 73 gr. IMR 4831. It was shooting 2inches or better .
Sometimes better if l really worked at it ha ha. Never took the caps off that scope in 40 yrs ha ha🇨🇦🤠
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Excellent. This guy gets it.
Well done. Good information!
would love input on how to properly set up the expander with mandrel
I love your videos, quick question do I prep my second fired brass the same way as the video you did on once fired brass? I need help because the brass are all different measurements after once fired because I was using different loads and bullets, you mentioned bump the shoulder back 2000s but all my shoulders are different lengths from the ones fired brass
Set them back all the same and they won't be different any longer.
Hi Sam. Started loading 6,5x55, and after a lot of Your videos about brass handling: - Why press the brass back to a fabrik size when it after a shot is formed exactly to the chamber in my Sauer 202? When resicing it/pressing it smaller I am stressing the brass, when shot it is stressed back to the chamber size, so again resize it back to a standard and again shot/expand it again, and again, and again. Why not just skip the recising and keep it the dimesjons the chamber makes it, as long as it goes smoth in and out? Dag from Norway
Great video, I don't think sorting brass by weight is worth the time. But for a different reason than you offered. Most the weight variance in a case is in the case head and that has very little to do with case volume. That being said if you have the time and energy to check cases then you're better off checking concentricity
Love this video. I have a hard time building loads off brass that hasn't yet been fire formed to the chamber of the specific rifle. It seems wasteful, but I'll take new lapua brass and a moderate load with the cheapest bullet possible and just fire form them so I have a baseline. Either that, or use some factory Nosler ammo and start my loads with fired brass. Am I crazy?
I ran a ladder test with new Lapua brass and 245 berger eol (300NM) and had great success finding a sweet spot however, when I loaded the once fired brass with that same charge weight, I was seeing overpressure signs. After asking around, I was told not to load test rounds in new brass. All the other variables that we could think of were ruled out. If you have any thoughts, it'd be appreciated
thanks Sam!! Appreciate the wisdom!
Always enjoy your videos! Thank you!
I hear ya. My BFF and hunting buddy for over 30 years who actually got me into shooting centerfire rifles does all this stuff and works up loads to get 0.016975034673944 groups, etc. etc. I just buy a couple boxes of the cheapest off the counter commercial ammo I can find for my caliber, shoot it to fireform to the chamber, clean, trim, debur, etc. etc. work up load, like you, til I'm at .5 or .6 MOA at 100 yards and I out-shoot 95% of the guys I run into at the range that have LRP Rifle Platforms. I don't mean to brag but I usu outshoot them with their own rifles too, lol. I then buy some bulk brass and process it (I don't weigh and measure, etc. just clean, FL resize, debut, trim, etc. shoot and, of course, reload the fire formed brass multiple times with my custom load. My buddy buys custom made rifles for $3.000 and I buy a Remington, Winchester, Weatherby rifle off the shelf, bed, float and trigger job and, so far, I've been lucky and have always been able to get them to shoot .75MOA or better. I've never had to replace a factory trigger just tune it up. I'll accept up to 1 MOA on a Big Game Rifle but NOT a Target or Varmint Rifle (I moa on a Prairie Dog at 300+ yards could easily be a miss). But, hey, each to his own.
Excellent. Thank you.
Have you tried Nosler brass? Love your videos.
I know that you measured several dimensions on the Lapula brass. Are they all within the case's overall length specs or did you have to trim them to length?
I checked a few pieces of new brass. They didn't need to be trimmed, so I didn't. I've trimmed them after every firing, though.
Good video thanks for the info
Sam, thanks so much for this video. Very helpful. I notice quite a lot of bullets on that top shelf. How many do you usually like to keep per caliber and bullet. I just attended a long range class and needed about 260 rounds.
Top top class, when is part 2 coming up, Regards Franco Danmark Europe
Franco Rui It went live last night. Be sure to subscribe to the channel. Thanks!
I'm going to load my own hunting cartridges. My goal is to load a cartridge that will shoot 1.25 @ 100 yards. Nothing special I know, but do you think a hornady custom full length SIZING die will do it's part to aid me in getting there?
How many fires before your shoulders have moved enough to bump them? The way I am understanding your process, you expand your necks up to get 0.001 tension since Lapua is so undersized. Also it’s about 0.0155” wall thickness.
Do you neck size before trimming and chamfering? Bushing die, neck only, (not full since we want the shoulder to get where we can bump them all the same).
Once trimmed, if you neck turned would this be the time or wait until the shoulder has maxed out before neck turning? Thank you for your feedback.
Nice video! You are correct, no sense expending time, money, energy and frustration on procedures that do not give any or very little net gains.
That time, money and energy would be much more valuable if spent by actually SHOOTING and developing ones marksmanship skills with that particular rifle and load. Real world in the field DOPE will IMHO trump spending weeks or months chasing that last tenth of a inch in possible accuracy. The human factor could have been improved by many times that in the same time span just by systematic training in real world scenarios. I know many may not want to concede or admit this is the best way to better overall performance. We as human beings are most of the time the weakest link in a shooting system if the rest of the system is top shelf.
U know your shit brotha. Excellent video keep em comin!
I am just getting into Rifle Loading, I am starting off with .223/5.56 for ARs, I will be loading .308 for a M1A Socom and a Rem 700. I realize this is a old video, but do you recommend full length resize for the M1A verse a neck size. I only ask as I have read that neck resize is OKAY for bolt action, but full length resize is recommended for autoloader. I am looking to work with the 168gr. Also, I might just buy some Bulk bullets to keep the cost down. I don't do any serious target shooting (competition) or any hunting, so they can be good enough out to 300 to 400 on steel. Just want to start loading rifle to save some $$. Any info would be appreciated.
I watch your videos all the time they are awesome. I live in a small town and availability of ammunition is limited let alone buying components. I recently bought some hornady ammunition to get once fired brass for my 300 Winchester mag. After sizing they were 4 thousands short of minimum trim length according to my hornady reload manual. Should I toss the all?
Fantastic videos and thank you for sharing your knowledge. New to loading and doing some homework. You mentioned you are trying to achieve 1000th of bullet grip Do you always try and achieve the same grip? Is it dependant on other factors?
Hi Sam, thanks very much, your videos are invaluable. I don't have access to the machine tools to thread a brass cartridge so do you have any recommendation for using the store-bought bullet comparator cartridge?
Thank you for all that great info
Great videos Sam I really like how you are right to the point with the reasons why or why not something matters. Are you a second or third generation reloader, or did you figure all this out on your own? I'm just starting out but really enjoy it and appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Dumb question Sam, how do you know when your brass is worn out? I have 10 firings on 200 pieces of brass. My ES is still low and the groups are still at or below 1/2 inch. I anneal and trim after every firing and have had no split necks. But I've noticed the case necks are thinning. Had to go to the next size smaller bushing (.288) to get my neck tension back over .001. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the video series, Sam. Looking forward to the subsequent videos in the series. What components did you use for the new rifle?
I watched one of your videos where on your bench you had a set of very fine looking Bondhus T wrenches. I've now had to buy some. Awesome kit arrived this morning. Any other real good tools you can suggest? :-)
EXCELLENT video!!! Thanks!!
im confussed on the (bumping the shoulder issue) do you have a video on this ? plus im trying to put together a load for a 6 mm CM using hornadys 108 ELD M. also what expander ball would you recommend
Instead of running them over an expander mandrel or FL die, would running them through a Lee Collet die expand the necks? I've been told by Lee that the Collet die only gives 0.001 neck tension. Same way to skin a cat or should I just buy an expanding die? Thanks Sam
Thank you for doing this.
Great video! I’ve learned SO much from your videos. I have a .308 precision rifle that I learned to reload for long range on and am about to build a precision 300 win mag for hunting. I have never loaded for .300 win mag. What do you think would be some fundamental steps that I will need to include that would be different from .308. I am a reliability new hand loader. I am using Lapua brass and Berger VLD. Thanks so much!
Question sam so I've been loading some 223 handloads with brand new lapua brass.. using redding dies and I recently had 100 handloads that wouldn't chamber at all so I broke the rounds down resized the cases in the full length redding sizing die and then they were fine clambering wise.. any clue what would cause this
I know I am late to this video, but with the Sinclair expanding die are you using this to get your neck tension even after fired? I'm just getting into precision load development and I'm trying to figure out the best way to get the .001 tension on the bullet.
Hey dude great video! You mentioned 7WSM Brass, what do you think is the best available or did you convert yours from another WSM?
I'm still working through 400 pieces of WW I bought years ago. I have no idea what's available now. I would probably learn to form it from something better if I had to build another 7WSM.
Panhandle Precision are you still active Sam? Haven't heard from you in a while...
Thank you, it is done!