This video is two years old but man you are a lifesaver! I wish i would have watched this before I started replacing parts and guessing. You must really know your ford inside and out. . Thanks!
@rl808826npr you are very welcome. I really enjoy doing this kind of work. Old school, not just plug a scanner in and blindly follow. Thanks for watching and sharing. Viewers like you are the reason I enjoy making videos like this! ~Mr. C.
11,259 views and this should have 11,259 likes !! Simple, straightforward, and well explained. Could have saved $ on an ignition module. Much better than some others recommending a voltmeter test for voltage readings on a coil after removing it from the truck. I really like the LED trick. Anyway 11,259 thanks!
@Ghost Rebel you are very welcome. Awesome viewers like you are the reason I started doing this. I have been helped on here by so many people so I wanted to give back to the community. Comments like yours make it that much more fun! ~Mr. C.
Couldn't have guessed the intermediate oil pump shaft was missing with a no-spark condition, as it's not related. The Electrolytic Capacitors are known fault items, as they stabilize the circuit voltage for the IC. These things always have failed as leakage voltage will invariably short to ground in the circuit and burn up. Capacitors have a limited lifespan anyways, but the boards often can be cleaned, the Capacitor replaced, and the solder joints reflowed with a localized heating source to return the ECM to proper order. You can always count on a 4.9 Liter to deliver the goods.
@Murray Kriner thankfully it was a cheap and easy fix. The ecm could possibly be repaired. Now that it is running I could attempt a fix and try it out.. Thanks for posting some excellent information. ~Mr. C.
Good video. I replaced the ecm on my '93 F-150 twice....would start, run for @ 20 minutes, then die.....just parked it for a year, but this video makes me want to get it going. Thanks !!
I have learned in my 59 years, that a person has to educate your self on everything in our life's, a country girl at heart, love my 95 f150 6 I L M, been at Witt's end , tired of getting push or towed home, even blocks away, !! Thank You for video, now I feel like going out to mess with Red she has given me a few fits, THANKS again for the Hope getting her going. StinknLilBrat
@StinknLilBrat you are absolutely correct. I believe if you learn it out of necessity it usually sticks better. I know you will get Red going and keep her going for years to come. Keep up the good work! ~Mr. C.
Hi everyone, I also have a 1994 f150 4.9L w/ manual trans. I had one hell of a time with my no start issue but my short answer is, check the ground between the engine and battery. After having spent 3 days and $400 dollars diagnosing and beating my head against a wall. I used a set of jumper cables from the engine block to the battery and my truck fired right up. After a new (starter, starter solenoid, ignition coil, battery and remote mount grey ICM), it was just bad ground. I'd also inspected my battery cables and PCM for issues but both were fine so, you might start where I ended.
@ParaTravis you have provided excellent information for everyone! For that I thank you. Keep up the good work. I appreciate your willingness to help. ~Mr. C.
@Joe Todd you are absolutely right! My keen ears pick up on something was wrong when she sounded like a two year old with a hammer and plenty of things to hit. Thanks for watching! Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
@user-hz8cb7sc1r you are very welcome. I am so glad you found it helpful. I try to approach something like that with a plan. Thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.
*This video helped me so much, thanks for posting! Wish I hadn't replaced the ignition module first, but at least I'm going to save about $100 on a distributor!*
My problem a little different since mine won’t even turn over. Just died on me going down the road and suddenly no power to the ignition switch at all. Flashers, cigarette lighter, and dome light works.but nothing else does? I’m thinking a fuse somewhere, but who knows? Any idea certainly welcome!
I'm working on getting my 94 ford f150 to crank currently. You have taught me a huge amount of information on this truck for when I'm ready for it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I'll be giving this a watch again when the time comes.
And also very thorough video I appreciate that most of them don't give you all the detail and everything but that was right on the money and you have a good day
Man very detailed you really ran down every possible thing I got a 91 ford bronco it was sitting for a cpl years I sprayed starter fluid in put gas in and it started I drove around the block and it died it wouldn't start back up I thought it was the module At first but this saved me money thanks chief
@Johnathan Mack not a problem! Glad to help. I really appreciate you taking time to leave an awesome comment. I love these old trucks. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
Thank you soo much for the insight & now my 1993 Ford F150 it’s running got my PMC or ECC replaced with a new one & sure enough that’s was the exact problem a burn out PMC! 😅 ❤🎉
@joiphaysith5049 you are very welcome. Glad to help. Viewers like you are the reason I keep doing videos. It is so nice to hear you got your truck running. Thanks for watching and sharing. ~Mr. C.
I had a 94 with the exact same configuration of motor and transmission. When I traded it in back in 03 it had over 383,000 miles on it. The only issues that I had with that one was I could not keep engine mounts on it because of the amount of torque and I has to replace the oil pan and valve cover gaskets. The only reason I traded it in was due to both fuel pumps went out within a week of each other. Every once in a while I still see it on the road.
Great video. Step by step and to the point. Got a 96 we just rebuilt. Was running, somewhat erratic,before it went under the wrench, we thought it had blown head gasket, turned out it had a crack in the head.After we dropped it back in it would not start. Your video is like looking at mine,two years apart but everything looks the same.Did the spark test with a screwdriver the old-fashioned way. Ouch! I was wondering about PCM now I can check it thanks to your video. Very plausible. Thanks.
@One eyed Jack I am glad you found it useful. Ewe, cracked head. Did you get a replacement from a junk yard? Good luck getting her going again. Thank you so much for watching and commenting! Viewers like you make creating content so much more fun! ~Mr. C.
@@NaturesCadenceFarm send it to a shop and had it cleaned and machined. But ever since rebuild it wouldn't start. So we go to TH-cam. Really grateful for your video, it helps a lot. Thanks again 👍. PS, we've been systemically going over the truck and my boy got it started yesterday, Sunday. Not just electrical but fuel too. Been sitting a few years. New fuel pumps , new coil, new distributor cap, new wires, motors even got new paint. Ford blue
@@NaturesCadenceFarm have a 67 f100 ranger with a 352-3 speed has title issues right now. Get that cleared up and that's our next project. Pretty much ground up. That's what I grew up with. Not This computer stuff. But it is what it is
@oneeyedjack8525 that is so cool. Sounds like you have her almost ready for the road. The price of trucks these days makes it worth the time and money. ~Mr. C.
Hey thanks for video on f150 ecm diagnostics, a no ground circuit from the distributor lead me to a broken gear at the bottom of distributor. The how is still a ? New dist. Fixed it. I will remember your test for the next issue . Very much thanks
EEC 4 stands for electronic engine control 4 those are capacitors in computer that leaked and kicked the bucket! The 85 computer not the same as eec4 . It controls ignition module and electronic feedback carburetor.
@Jumarie Richardson I can try. Have you checked all of the fuses? Not sure if you have one but maybe check the inertia switch. It might just power the fuel pump. Open up and check the ecu/pcm/ecm for burns inside. Hope this helps. ~Mr. C.
Put a new cap and rotor on and it didn't start. New O'Rblow me $20 rotor fell apart into 3 pieces. They didn't have any other ones so i went to Advance outfit and got a $11 rotor with same limited lifetime warranty
Had same issue but problem was mouse eating wiring in half going to relay on driver side of engine saw wiring insulation missing and noticed broken wire near by. Truck 🛻 sits idle for months . Mice 🐭 needed a warm home 🏠
@ericheise4051 that is a bummer. I had a squirrel or mouse chew through my wood chipper coil power wires. What a pain. Thanks for watching and sharing. ~Mr. C.
@Divnbum no. After checking the numbers on the ECU (example: F3TF-12A650-XA DOT0)and ordering the correct one it was plug and play. No programming. Excellent question, thanks for asking! ~Mr. C.
Okay so my 94 F150 300 straight 6 5 speed is doing the exact same thing except for mine backfired and blew the cover off the catalytic converter and then it wouldn't start after that so does did you think that that little box has to do with mine or could it be that a jump time
@Darla Collier wow that sounds exciting! That does not sound like the ecu because the Ignition would just stop. I would lean toward jumping time. Have you had time to look into it? ~Mr. C.
I've got a 96 f150, 4.9 300i6, PCM is exactly in the same location. However, mine does not come out this side. Mine has to be slid back inside the truck cab and guess what I have to do for that. I order to remove my PCM, I have to remove the entire plate assembly that's holding the ebrake peddle and wire connection. One huge fricken gone show.
@1945temo that is interesting. Is it the original engine? A 1990 originally came with fuel injection. If the engine was swapped it could be a carburetor. Thanks for watching and commenting. ~Mr. C.
@nicodemus7784 yes missing. I am not sure if it was removed when the previous owner was troubleshooting and they forgot to reinstall it or removed on purpose to make it burn up if the next person got it going. Either way I knew something was seriously wrong when it started. Sounded terrible. Thanks for watching and asking. ~Mr. C.
got a question my coil ground out works sometimes and sometimes not. if I put a t connector in to test it starts working could it be a bad pig tail harness
Mine will crank but not start unless I spray a liberal amount of starting fluid. I replaced coil, plugs, wires, tps, cannister vacuum solenoid and Mapp sensor. Still having the same problem... please help!
@Brian Hopper Sr. that is a bummer. I would look into the fuel delivery system. Fuel pump, fuel pump power circuit, fuel filter, tank selector switch, pressure regulator... just to name a few. I say this because it will pop on starting fluid. I hope this helps. ~Mr. C.
You might want to look at your fuel pressure. After spending way too much money on the parts cannon I discovered that the fuel pump was weak. If or when it actually started it wasn't for long. Came out the connections at the tank was corroded and green. Truck ran like it was new afterwards.
@blmdh20s you sound exactly like the problems I've been having and I didn't think that it could be a weak fuel pump but since I've replaced just about Everything else; I'm really starting to believe that it may very well be a weak fuel pump! Thanks sir!
How much did that pcm cost and i live in Florida the summer months after temp gets 200 degree it like it gets vapor lock it turns over after letting it sit a half hour it will crank up in winter months it cranks it will be 190 degrees ive replace fuel filter i keep tank full
@peterharrison9816 the PCM was around 120 a few years ago. That is an interesting set of problems. Maybe something is happening when it goes into closed loop looking at all of the sensors. Thanks for watching and sharing. ~Mr. C.
@law breaker so the Coil does not have 12v positive with the key on? Have you checked all of your fuses? Make sure you check for 12v positive using the tester probe on the positive of the Coil and the ground on the battery not the negative side of the Coil. Hope this helps. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
@@NaturesCadenceFarm Just now getting to work on truck again gonna run the same test you did in the video i have a whole parts truck to pull parts as needed will get back to ya
I finally have spark coming from coil only not sure what done it i unplugged the pcm amd plugged it back in due to the fact i changed the entire under hood harness and figured id check to see if it was not connected good
Thanks for the video,At the step when you check tan wire from coil with key on I am not gettin any light coming on at all, could you consider that and let me know what you think is my problem
@leewoolverton8945 the light turning on with the tan wire shows voltage present on the red wire of the coil and that side of the coil windings are intact. Did you check for voltage on the red wire with ignition on? If the light turns on at the red wire but not the tan check for continuity to ground at the tan wire that would indicate the wire is in fact grounded. If no continuity then the coil windings must be open. Check continuity across the two terminals of the coil. If open then those coil windings are bad. Hope this helps. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
Hello From Mark In Kentucky. I have a 1985 Ford F-150 with a 300cid engine with a 4 speed New Process 435 transmission that has a no start condition in which I was advised by a friend who operates a garage that my computer was probably bad. My truck actually has a carburetor and no real options other than air conditioning in which I really don’t understand why Ford even used a computer for such a “Plain Jane” truck- Oh Well. I think my computer is located under the dash the right of the steering wheel and pedals. I am kind of a large person and not sure if I can contort myself enough to get myself under the dash enough to get the computer out. One night about a week ago I was driving in town one night and my engine shut down. I could crank over the engine and I was getting some firing which would weaken with steady cranking of the engine. The distributor cap, rotor button and spark plug wires were in pretty bad shape so I have pretty much changed out all of the engine ignition parts with the exception of the pickup coil in the distributor. While changing out the ignition module, I discovered that one of screws that hold in the module was stripped out, So I may get a reman distributor that would take care of the pick up coil. I am thinking that both computers are probably pretty similar with the exception of the location difference between our trucks. My 1990 F-150 should be pretty much identical to the truck that you had in your video. Believe it or not, There’s virtually nothing mentioned about the older Ford trucks like my 1985, So I stumbled across your video and will try to put it to good use. Thanks For Your Video.
@IronDuke502 sounds like you have a pretty good idea about what is going on to get her running again. I wish you the best of luck on fixing your issue. If there is anything I can help with just let us know and I will do my best. Thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.
i was under the impression that Ford got rid of their ignition control module in the early 90's because they were so problematic . My 88 f250 has one , but neither my 91 f600 , or my 94 f350 dually , or my 96 bronco have that piece of crap. I had an 84 LTD (small one) that went bad and I had one helluva time just removing it from the distributor !
Nice video! Hey, my truck did the EXACT same thing today while driving down the road. It would turn over freely but wouldn't start. Are you able to say who you bought your ECM from?
@JoeMama-gs7rd I purchased the unit from eBay. See below for a link to the seller. That's a bummer she gave out on you. Hopefully you get her going soon. Thanks for the awesome comment and watching. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C. www.ebay.com/str/autocomptechnologiesinc?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7tVvLZeGRde&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=dC5GuLO6Q8K&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I repaired my granddaughter's Cadillac SRX with an eBay pcm. I am a little cautious when buying car parts off of eBay, but if you check carefully, feedback ratings, number of sales, etc you should be ok. Remember, some businesses also sell on eBay. I have a question if anyone cares to answer it. I understand how the ignition module works to fire the coil and I understand how the distributor is timed to fire #1 cyl at tdc but what I am not sure of is what triggers the sequential fuel injection. My son has a 98 chevy pickup and I think my Ford is designed similar to that Chevy, in that the distributor gear and cap are positioned so that the rotor is pointing at #1at tdc , but this does not control the FI trigger pulse. My understanding about that is that there is another timing plate under the rotor which controls the trigger signal to the pcm which then fires the fuel injectors at the right time. There are a lot of youtube videos showing the setup on the Chevy distributors and the FI timing and I think the old Fords work the same way. By the way, the pcm and ignition module in my 92 F150 is original. My Dad bought this truck brand new and I am the second owner.
@Charles Wilson I will attempt to answer your question. It is also my understanding the pickup coil in the distributor also tells the module when to initiate the injection sequence. Thank you for sharing. I really appreciate you spending time watching the channel and engaging with the community. It means a lot to me. ~Mr. C.
@Off Grid Homestead LWY you are so welcome! Glad you got some use out of the video. Thanks for the Sub. Looks like you have a nice channel too. Keep up the good work. ~Mr. C.
Any idea what caused the ECM to burn up? Im right about where you were, old 94 f150, with no spark...but it will spark with the spout connector pulled out, not with it installed(I got it to fire on starting spray). I didnt have an LED tester so Ive been a lil nervous about testing the PIP signal like you did. I noticed you listed a LED test light in the description, so Im going to pick one of those up. I had tested the ground to the ICM...and it was there...but i dont think i tested it key on vs key off(but i will later this evening). Also, my fuel system isnt working(At least the pump isnt coming on, no pressure at rail) however, could be two stuck pumps(Truck has sat a long time) I will test the fuel injectors to see if they're receiving pulse when I finally get spark. anyway, great video...really enjoy your laid back approach.
@Tim Rowe I do not know what caused the failure. My guess is moisture and time. I got the truck in a non running condition. The guy said he slammed the door and it shut off then never restarted. Good call on waiting to check the PIP. It would not take much to fry sensitive electronics with too much load on them. I have noticed when fuel pumps sit they will lock up, so yes, maybe that is the problem with the lack of fuel pressure. I am glad you like the video. I really appreciate you watching and letting me know how things are going with your truck. I know this might sound strange to many people but I really enjoy working on stuff like this. It is almost like therapy for me. That is so cool you noticed my laid back approach because at the end of the day I really am laid back while working on this stuff. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
So I have same truck just bought it been sitting for I know 4 years replaced fuel pump and gas tank new distributor cap new plugs and wires after I filled it up with gas truck runs perfect for about 5 mins dies. Been trying to diagnose it myself but I'm not a mechanic but I'm trying. Replaced coil because it was bad and icm still won't start. Started watching your video and I'm lost because when I use the test light to see if I'm getting power to the coil light is solid but blinks on tan even before I turn truck over. What Is this telling me
@Michael Jenkins I am leaning toward some kind of fault when the truck goes into closed loop. I am thinking this because the 5 min run time. Does it throw a code when it shuts off? If it does try to read a code with the key still on with the reader shown below. I am also guessing if you let it cool down it stats fine and then runs for the 5 min. again. Let me know. ~Mr. C. Ford OBD1 Code Reader: amzn.to/3xSMK6I
Just wanted to let you know I changed the computer out truck runs perfectly now. I appreciate this video and will continue to follow your page. Thank you for all your help I grately appreciate it
@tessiehuskey689 I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing. Are you asking about testing the spark plug like wire leaving the coil or the signal wire from the ignition module? Let me know! ~Mr. C.
I’ll be testing the signal from the ignition module The test light that I purchased on Amazon Dual color LED bulb automotive test light 6v to 24v low voltage type my question is since I don’t have two alligator clips red and black I have only one alligator clip on the test light how do I hook up the polarity when I test the pip wire and the spout wire and thank you for your first reply.
@tessiehuskey689 ok I understand. If needed you can back probe the connector with a small nail or paper clip that has been straightened out or something similar. Then use a jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends to connect to the nail and the other on the probe tip. Hope this helps. Please don't hesitate to ask another question. I love to help. I can make a short video to help explain too. ~Mr. C.
Ok the pip wire is back probe with paper clip then that is connected to the test light pointer with a alligator jumper wire then the alligator clip of the test light is connected to the negative or positive side of the battery?
It didn't turn on with starting fluid it had like poor spark and not frequent thats what i noticed but the mechanic said supposedly that the computer wasn't properly grounded
I think everybody agree easier guicker make your own text equipment I bought all my test equipment to damn complicated by the time you figure out could have been riding instead of stressing now somebody post no firing on 1984 f 150
@RussellRikard agree completely! I love fabricating my own stuff. Easier, cheaper, repairable, and just down right cool. Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
MINE NIETHER! DOESN'T THAT SUCK! I GUESS I'LL HAVE TO USE THOSE AUTOMOTIVE AND ADVANCED ELECTRONIC DEGREES AND 40 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE TO FIGURE IT OUT!
This video is two years old but man you are a lifesaver! I wish i would have watched this before I started replacing parts and guessing. You must really know your ford inside and out. . Thanks!
@rl808826npr you are very welcome. I really enjoy doing this kind of work. Old school, not just plug a scanner in and blindly follow. Thanks for watching and sharing. Viewers like you are the reason I enjoy making videos like this! ~Mr. C.
11,259 views and this should have 11,259 likes !!
Simple, straightforward, and well explained. Could have saved $ on an ignition module. Much better than some others recommending a voltmeter test for voltage readings on a coil after removing it from the truck. I really like the LED trick.
Anyway 11,259 thanks!
@Ghost Rebel you are very welcome. Awesome viewers like you are the reason I started doing this. I have been helped on here by so many people so I wanted to give back to the community. Comments like yours make it that much more fun! ~Mr. C.
Couldn't have guessed the intermediate oil pump shaft was missing with a no-spark condition, as it's not related. The Electrolytic Capacitors are known fault items, as they stabilize the circuit voltage for the IC. These things always have failed as leakage voltage will invariably short to ground in the circuit and burn up. Capacitors have a limited lifespan anyways, but the boards often can be cleaned, the Capacitor replaced, and the solder joints reflowed with a localized heating source to return the ECM to proper order. You can always count on a 4.9 Liter to deliver the goods.
@Murray Kriner thankfully it was a cheap and easy fix. The ecm could possibly be repaired. Now that it is running I could attempt a fix and try it out.. Thanks for posting some excellent information. ~Mr. C.
Good video. I replaced the ecm on my '93 F-150 twice....would start, run for @ 20 minutes, then die.....just parked it for a year, but this video makes me want to get it going. Thanks !!
@George Ulicny that's kinda weird. Glad you enjoyed the video. ~Mr. C.
My truck die on me today wen I was on my way home but I’m not a mechanic and I don’t know were I start
Ditto.
I have learned in my 59 years, that a person has to educate your self on everything in our life's, a country girl at heart, love my 95 f150 6 I L M, been at Witt's end , tired of getting push or towed home, even blocks away, !!
Thank You for video, now I feel like going out to mess with Red she has given me a few fits, THANKS again for the Hope getting her going.
StinknLilBrat
@StinknLilBrat you are absolutely correct. I believe if you learn it out of necessity it usually sticks better. I know you will get Red going and keep her going for years to come. Keep up the good work! ~Mr. C.
Hi everyone, I also have a 1994 f150 4.9L w/ manual trans. I had one hell of a time with my no start issue but my short answer is, check the ground between the engine and battery. After having spent 3 days and $400 dollars diagnosing and beating my head against a wall. I used a set of jumper cables from the engine block to the battery and my truck fired right up.
After a new (starter, starter solenoid, ignition coil, battery and remote mount grey ICM), it was just bad ground. I'd also inspected my battery cables and PCM for issues but both were fine so, you might start where I ended.
@ParaTravis you have provided excellent information for everyone! For that I thank you. Keep up the good work. I appreciate your willingness to help. ~Mr. C.
Good Thing you caught that intermediate shaft in time.
@Joe Todd you are absolutely right! My keen ears pick up on something was wrong when she sounded like a two year old with a hammer and plenty of things to hit. Thanks for watching! Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
Thanks for sharing, I’m having the same issues with my 1993 f150 colt 4.9L. Now off to troubleshooting 🤘😎
@JJJ Rican no problem glad to help. How did it go? Is she back on the road? ~Mr. C.
That was solid methodology and intetesting to watch, thanks for posting it.
@user-hz8cb7sc1r you are very welcome. I am so glad you found it helpful. I try to approach something like that with a plan. Thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.
*This video helped me so much, thanks for posting! Wish I hadn't replaced the ignition module first, but at least I'm going to save about $100 on a distributor!*
@JediTim it is so nice to hear you found it helpful. Keep up the good work. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
My problem a little different since mine won’t even turn over. Just died on me going down the road and suddenly no power to the ignition switch at all. Flashers, cigarette lighter, and dome light works.but nothing else does? I’m thinking a fuse somewhere, but who knows? Any idea certainly welcome!
@@ghostridergale ignition module maybe?
I'm working on getting my 94 ford f150 to crank currently. You have taught me a huge amount of information on this truck for when I'm ready for it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I'll be giving this a watch again when the time comes.
@Chris you are very welcome. I really appreciate super nice comments like this. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
Thank you for the excellent explanation in detail, I have this problem and you have just given me a direction to solve the problem
@Luis Campos you are very welcome. Glad to help. Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
And also very thorough video I appreciate that most of them don't give you all the detail and everything but that was right on the money and you have a good day
@Darla Collier you are very welcome. Glad it was useful. Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
Man very detailed you really ran down every possible thing I got a 91 ford bronco it was sitting for a cpl years I sprayed starter fluid in put gas in and it started I drove around the block and it died it wouldn't start back up I thought it was the module At first but this saved me money thanks chief
@Johnathan Mack not a problem! Glad to help. I really appreciate you taking time to leave an awesome comment. I love these old trucks. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
Thank you soo much for the insight & now my 1993 Ford F150 it’s running got my PMC or ECC replaced with a new one & sure enough that’s was the exact problem a burn out PMC! 😅 ❤🎉
@joiphaysith5049 you are very welcome. Glad to help. Viewers like you are the reason I keep doing videos. It is so nice to hear you got your truck running. Thanks for watching and sharing. ~Mr. C.
I had a 94 with the exact same configuration of motor and transmission. When I traded it in back in 03 it had over 383,000 miles on it. The only issues that I had with that one was I could not keep engine mounts on it because of the amount of torque and I has to replace the oil pan and valve cover gaskets. The only reason I traded it in was due to both fuel pumps went out within a week of each other. Every once in a while I still see it on the road.
@Bradley Waters WOW thank you for sharing such an amazing experience. I love these things! What a machine. ~Mr. C.
Great troubleshooting,awesome job....👍
@davidghost2913 thank you! I really like that truck. It is such a nice size. Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
Great video. Step by step and to the point. Got a 96 we just rebuilt. Was running, somewhat erratic,before it went under the wrench, we thought it had blown head gasket, turned out it had a crack in the head.After we dropped it back in it would not start. Your video is like looking at mine,two years apart but everything looks the same.Did the spark test with a screwdriver the old-fashioned way. Ouch! I was wondering about PCM now I can check it thanks to your video. Very plausible. Thanks.
@One eyed Jack I am glad you found it useful. Ewe, cracked head. Did you get a replacement from a junk yard? Good luck getting her going again. Thank you so much for watching and commenting! Viewers like you make creating content so much more fun! ~Mr. C.
@@NaturesCadenceFarm send it to a shop and had it cleaned and machined. But ever since rebuild it wouldn't start. So we go to TH-cam. Really grateful for your video, it helps a lot. Thanks again 👍. PS, we've been systemically going over the truck and my boy got it started yesterday, Sunday. Not just electrical but fuel too. Been sitting a few years. New fuel pumps , new coil, new distributor cap, new wires, motors even got new paint. Ford blue
@@NaturesCadenceFarm have a 67 f100 ranger with a 352-3 speed has title issues right now. Get that cleared up and that's our next project. Pretty much ground up. That's what I grew up with. Not This computer stuff. But it is what it is
@oneeyedjack8525 that is so cool. Sounds like you have her almost ready for the road. The price of trucks these days makes it worth the time and money. ~Mr. C.
Hey thanks for video on f150 ecm diagnostics, a no ground circuit from the distributor lead me to a broken gear at the bottom of distributor. The how is still a ? New dist. Fixed it. I will remember your test for the next issue . Very much thanks
@Joe you are very welcome. Glad to hear it was an easy fix. Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
EEC 4 stands for electronic engine control 4 those are capacitors in computer that leaked and kicked the bucket! The 85 computer not the same as eec4 . It controls ignition module and electronic feedback carburetor.
@Randall Carney thanks for the information. I found it very useful. I am sure the community will too. ~Mr. C.
Thanks for posting this video, will help me greatly diagnosing my truck.
@pork porker you are very welcome. Glad to help! ~Mr. C.
This is such a dang good video.
@Renofirefly30 thank you so much! Glad you liked it. ~Mr. C.
Great Video. I had the same problem.
@MatthewCardillo thank you so much for taking the time to leave a comment. I really appreciate you. ~Mr. C.
I have 1996 F 150 extended cab whit the same problem. Thanks I'll check it out
@Mr. Bateo that's not good. I know you can figure it out. Happy wrenching! Nice videos about baseball. I checked a few out. ~Mr. C.
Hey I need help my 1992 Ford f150 not getting any power to the injectors can u help me figure it out
@Jumarie Richardson I can try. Have you checked all of the fuses? Not sure if you have one but maybe check the inertia switch. It might just power the fuel pump. Open up and check the ecu/pcm/ecm for burns inside. Hope this helps. ~Mr. C.
Put a new cap and rotor on and it didn't start. New O'Rblow me $20 rotor fell apart into 3 pieces. They didn't have any other ones so i went to Advance outfit and got a $11 rotor with same limited lifetime warranty
@Donald Frederick that is excellent work! Good to hear she is purring like a kitten now. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
Does getting coil control mean the coil is good? I have coil control but nothing on coil wire at distributor
Great video! Subscribed for more thank you sir
@chimbyyy sweet! Thank you for the sub! I need to put a fuel pump in the f150 now. And now the car is down. Always something... Stay tuned. ~Mr. C.
Had same issue but problem was mouse eating wiring in half going to relay on driver side of engine saw wiring insulation missing and noticed broken wire near by. Truck 🛻 sits idle for months . Mice 🐭 needed a warm home 🏠
@ericheise4051 that is a bummer. I had a squirrel or mouse chew through my wood chipper coil power wires. What a pain. Thanks for watching and sharing. ~Mr. C.
I have a 1996 f150 I6 5 speed, when you changed out the box, did it need reprogramming to your vehicle and VIN?
@Divnbum no. After checking the numbers on the ECU (example: F3TF-12A650-XA DOT0)and ordering the correct one it was plug and play. No programming. Excellent question, thanks for asking! ~Mr. C.
Okay so my 94 F150 300 straight 6 5 speed is doing the exact same thing except for mine backfired and blew the cover off the catalytic converter and then it wouldn't start after that so does did you think that that little box has to do with mine or could it be that a jump time
@Darla Collier wow that sounds exciting! That does not sound like the ecu because the Ignition would just stop. I would lean toward jumping time. Have you had time to look into it? ~Mr. C.
I've got a 96 f150, 4.9 300i6, PCM is exactly in the same location. However, mine does not come out this side. Mine has to be slid back inside the truck cab and guess what I have to do for that. I order to remove my PCM, I have to remove the entire plate assembly that's holding the ebrake peddle and wire connection. One huge fricken gone show.
@FreeBird Safety Services that stinks! Sounds like a real pain. You figured it out though! Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
@@NaturesCadenceFarm nope. I had to install a new EGR valve. However, my truck still will not start.
Hello, My 1990 Ford F150 6 inline I have to pump it like 35-50 times before it could start, after that it would start more normal. Thanks
@1945temo that is interesting. Is it the original engine? A 1990 originally came with fuel injection. If the engine was swapped it could be a carburetor. Thanks for watching and commenting. ~Mr. C.
the oilpump shaft was missing? as in someone took it out after it stopped running?
@nicodemus7784 yes missing. I am not sure if it was removed when the previous owner was troubleshooting and they forgot to reinstall it or removed on purpose to make it burn up if the next person got it going. Either way I knew something was seriously wrong when it started. Sounded terrible. Thanks for watching and asking. ~Mr. C.
got a question my coil ground out works sometimes and sometimes not. if I put a t connector in to test it starts working could it be a bad pig tail harness
@Jerry Fewell I would say so. Maybe the crimp to the wire is not tight. Did you get it fixed? ~Mr. C.
@@NaturesCadenceFarm I tried computer it didn't work I think the pick up in distrubutor is the culprit
Mine will crank but not start unless I spray a liberal amount of starting fluid. I replaced coil, plugs, wires, tps, cannister vacuum solenoid and Mapp sensor. Still having the same problem... please help!
@Brian Hopper Sr. that is a bummer. I would look into the fuel delivery system. Fuel pump, fuel pump power circuit, fuel filter, tank selector switch, pressure regulator... just to name a few. I say this because it will pop on starting fluid. I hope this helps. ~Mr. C.
You might want to look at your fuel pressure. After spending way too much money on the parts cannon I discovered that the fuel pump was weak. If or when it actually started it wasn't for long. Came out the connections at the tank was corroded and green. Truck ran like it was new afterwards.
@blmdh20s you sound exactly like the problems I've been having and I didn't think that it could be a weak fuel pump but since I've replaced just about Everything else; I'm really starting to believe that it may very well be a weak fuel pump! Thanks sir!
Thanks . . . good helpful video . . . Well done👍
@Ray Armstrong you are very welcome. Glad to help! ~Mr. C.
How much did that pcm cost and i live in Florida the summer months after temp gets 200 degree it like it gets vapor lock it turns over after letting it sit a half hour it will crank up in winter months it cranks it will be 190 degrees ive replace fuel filter i keep tank full
@peterharrison9816 the PCM was around 120 a few years ago. That is an interesting set of problems. Maybe something is happening when it goes into closed loop looking at all of the sensors. Thanks for watching and sharing. ~Mr. C.
Dealing with a no spark condition now no power coming to the coil
@law breaker so the Coil does not have 12v positive with the key on? Have you checked all of your fuses? Make sure you check for 12v positive using the tester probe on the positive of the Coil and the ground on the battery not the negative side of the Coil. Hope this helps. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
@@NaturesCadenceFarm
Just now getting to work on truck again gonna run the same test you did in the video i have a whole parts truck to pull parts as needed will get back to ya
I finally have spark coming from coil only not sure what done it i unplugged the pcm amd plugged it back in due to the fact i changed the entire under hood harness and figured id check to see if it was not connected good
Thanks for the video,At the step when you check tan wire from coil with key on I am not gettin any light coming on at all, could you consider that and let me know what you think is my problem
@leewoolverton8945 the light turning on with the tan wire shows voltage present on the red wire of the coil and that side of the coil windings are intact. Did you check for voltage on the red wire with ignition on? If the light turns on at the red wire but not the tan check for continuity to ground at the tan wire that would indicate the wire is in fact grounded. If no continuity then the coil windings must be open. Check continuity across the two terminals of the coil. If open then those coil windings are bad. Hope this helps. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
Hello From Mark In Kentucky. I have a 1985 Ford F-150 with a 300cid engine with a 4 speed New Process 435 transmission that has a no start condition in which I was advised by a friend who operates a garage that my computer was probably bad.
My truck actually has a carburetor and no real options other than air conditioning in which I really don’t understand why Ford even used a computer for such a “Plain Jane” truck- Oh Well.
I think my computer is located under the dash the right of the steering wheel and pedals. I am kind of a large person and not sure if I can contort myself enough to get myself under the dash enough to get the computer out.
One night about a week ago I was driving in town one night and my engine shut down. I could crank over the engine and I was getting some firing which would weaken with steady cranking of the engine.
The distributor cap, rotor button and spark plug wires were in pretty bad shape so I have pretty much changed out all of the engine ignition parts with the exception of the pickup coil in the distributor. While changing out the ignition module, I discovered that one of screws that hold in the module was stripped out, So I may get a reman distributor that would take care of the pick up coil. I am thinking that both computers are probably pretty similar with the exception of the location difference between our trucks. My 1990 F-150 should be pretty much identical to the truck that you had in your video. Believe it or not, There’s virtually nothing mentioned about the older Ford trucks like my 1985, So I stumbled across your video and will try to put it to good use. Thanks For Your Video.
@IronDuke502 sounds like you have a pretty good idea about what is going on to get her running again. I wish you the best of luck on fixing your issue. If there is anything I can help with just let us know and I will do my best. Thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.
i was under the impression that Ford got rid of their ignition control module in the early 90's because they were so problematic . My 88 f250 has one , but neither my 91 f600 , or my 94 f350 dually , or my 96 bronco have that piece of crap. I had an 84 LTD (small one) that went bad and I had one helluva time just removing it from the distributor !
@rickobrien4025 I am not sure of the exact years for the module. This model seems to do ok with it. Thanks for sharing and watching! ~Mr. C.
Nice video! Hey, my truck did the EXACT same thing today while driving down the road. It would turn over freely but wouldn't start. Are you able to say who you bought your ECM from?
@JoeMama-gs7rd I purchased the unit from eBay. See below for a link to the seller. That's a bummer she gave out on you. Hopefully you get her going soon. Thanks for the awesome comment and watching. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
www.ebay.com/str/autocomptechnologiesinc?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7tVvLZeGRde&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=dC5GuLO6Q8K&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I repaired my granddaughter's Cadillac SRX with an eBay pcm. I am a little cautious when buying car parts off of eBay, but if you check carefully, feedback ratings, number of sales, etc you should be ok. Remember, some businesses also sell on eBay. I have a question if anyone cares to answer it. I understand how the ignition module works to fire the coil and I understand how the distributor is timed to fire #1 cyl at tdc but what I am not sure of is what triggers the sequential fuel injection. My son has a 98 chevy pickup and I think my Ford is designed similar to that Chevy, in that the distributor gear and cap are positioned so that the rotor is pointing at #1at tdc , but this does not control the FI trigger pulse. My understanding about that is that there is another timing plate under the rotor which controls the trigger signal to the pcm which then fires the fuel injectors at the right time. There are a lot of youtube videos showing the setup on the Chevy distributors and the FI timing and I think the old Fords work the same way. By the way, the pcm and ignition module in my 92 F150 is original. My Dad bought this truck brand new and I am the second owner.
@Charles Wilson I will attempt to answer your question. It is also my understanding the pickup coil in the distributor also tells the module when to initiate the injection sequence. Thank you for sharing. I really appreciate you spending time watching the channel and engaging with the community. It means a lot to me. ~Mr. C.
What if the light stays on when checking the ground pin on the ICM?
@Charles Hunter I am thinking it is the one that should pulse. If it is I would guess the ICM is faulty. Thank for watching and asking! ~Mr. C.
my 89 has the module on the distributor
@juliancano6913 that's interesting. Thanks for sharing. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
Thanks
@Off Grid Homestead LWY you are so welcome! Glad you got some use out of the video. Thanks for the Sub. Looks like you have a nice channel too. Keep up the good work. ~Mr. C.
Any idea what caused the ECM to burn up? Im right about where you were, old 94 f150, with no spark...but it will spark with the spout connector pulled out, not with it installed(I got it to fire on starting spray). I didnt have an LED tester so Ive been a lil nervous about testing the PIP signal like you did. I noticed you listed a LED test light in the description, so Im going to pick one of those up. I had tested the ground to the ICM...and it was there...but i dont think i tested it key on vs key off(but i will later this evening). Also, my fuel system isnt working(At least the pump isnt coming on, no pressure at rail) however, could be two stuck pumps(Truck has sat a long time) I will test the fuel injectors to see if they're receiving pulse when I finally get spark. anyway, great video...really enjoy your laid back approach.
@Tim Rowe I do not know what caused the failure. My guess is moisture and time. I got the truck in a non running condition. The guy said he slammed the door and it shut off then never restarted. Good call on waiting to check the PIP. It would not take much to fry sensitive electronics with too much load on them. I have noticed when fuel pumps sit they will lock up, so yes, maybe that is the problem with the lack of fuel pressure. I am glad you like the video. I really appreciate you watching and letting me know how things are going with your truck. I know this might sound strange to many people but I really enjoy working on stuff like this. It is almost like therapy for me. That is so cool you noticed my laid back approach because at the end of the day I really am laid back while working on this stuff. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
So I have same truck just bought it been sitting for I know 4 years replaced fuel pump and gas tank new distributor cap new plugs and wires after I filled it up with gas truck runs perfect for about 5 mins dies. Been trying to diagnose it myself but I'm not a mechanic but I'm trying. Replaced coil because it was bad and icm still won't start. Started watching your video and I'm lost because when I use the test light to see if I'm getting power to the coil light is solid but blinks on tan even before I turn truck over. What Is this telling me
@Michael Jenkins I am leaning toward some kind of fault when the truck goes into closed loop. I am thinking this because the 5 min run time. Does it throw a code when it shuts off? If it does try to read a code with the key still on with the reader shown below. I am also guessing if you let it cool down it stats fine and then runs for the 5 min. again. Let me know. ~Mr. C.
Ford OBD1 Code Reader: amzn.to/3xSMK6I
Just wanted to let you know I changed the computer out truck runs perfectly now. I appreciate this video and will continue to follow your page. Thank you for all your help I grately appreciate it
@Michael Jenkins that is great news! Nice it was a simple fix. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
If I buy led low voltage 0:05 test light how do I test the signal coming from distributor coil with it
@tessiehuskey689 I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing. Are you asking about testing the spark plug like wire leaving the coil or the signal wire from the ignition module? Let me know! ~Mr. C.
I’ll be testing the signal from the ignition module The test light that I purchased on Amazon Dual color LED bulb automotive test light 6v to 24v low voltage type my question is since I don’t have two alligator clips red and black I have only one alligator clip on the test light how do I hook up the polarity when I test the pip wire and the spout wire and thank you for your first reply.
I didn’t mean to say spout wire I meant to say ground to the ignition module I believe
@tessiehuskey689 ok I understand. If needed you can back probe the connector with a small nail or paper clip that has been straightened out or something similar. Then use a jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends to connect to the nail and the other on the probe tip. Hope this helps. Please don't hesitate to ask another question. I love to help. I can make a short video to help explain too. ~Mr. C.
Ok the pip wire is back probe with paper clip then that is connected to the test light pointer with a alligator jumper wire then the alligator clip of the test light is connected to the negative or positive side of the battery?
Same problem with my 95 4.9
@Oscar Akino thanks for watching! Hopefully you get her going soon! ~Mr. C.
@@NaturesCadenceFarm fixed ignition coil was the problem .. this video help me to much tanks
Mine wont start with nothing it just cranks it has spark and gas pressure
@adrianhinojosa4108 is your timing off? Are the injectors firing? Will it start with starting fluid then shut off? Just some things to check. ~Mr. C.
It didn't turn on with starting fluid it had like poor spark and not frequent thats what i noticed but the mechanic said supposedly that the computer wasn't properly grounded
Now is discharging the battery
I think everybody agree easier guicker make your own text equipment I bought all my test equipment to damn complicated by the time you figure out could have been riding instead of stressing now somebody post no firing on 1984 f 150
@RussellRikard agree completely! I love fabricating my own stuff. Easier, cheaper, repairable, and just down right cool. Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
MINE NIETHER! DOESN'T THAT SUCK! I GUESS I'LL HAVE TO USE THOSE AUTOMOTIVE AND ADVANCED ELECTRONIC DEGREES AND 40 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE TO FIGURE IT OUT!
@moto fish it's been a bit. Did you get her going? I would love to hear how it went. ~Mr. C.