1995 Ford F-150 - Crank No Start (No Spark) Diag & Repair!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2023
- We have here a 1995 Ford F150, It's a crank no start without spark. The customer replaced the coil but it did not fix the issue. The shop replaced the wire and it worked for a week. Then they diagnosed a bad Ignition control module and it worked for a week again! Now it was towed back in... Hope you enjoy!
#nostart
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Tools In this Video
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Check out the No Spark Playlist for more videos like this. th-cam.com/play/PLm-yrX2L5IDY5zonmeq_HZ4UIzs_i81ab.html
In a Factory Master AUTO Mechanics College i had to go to for years the Teacher made the class recite a poem at the beginning of the class every time is this: Most electrical problems occur at connections and are resistant by nature... this i have found is spot on...
Thank you for the diagnostic. Same problem happened to my 95’ F150 but happened when it was running, just keep dying. And after a while run back again like nothing happens. Will check wiring tomorrow, thanks!!!
Glad to help! hope you get it sorted out.
@@advancedleveldiagnostics I have same problem I was driving back to home and my truk die on me I change that coil I ignition module distriburator rotor and nothing no spark was so ever all fuses are god relay as well I ordered a new ecm but I’m going to clean that harnes to se if works because I never have any issues besáis that o2 sensor code
Another Great Video... yes these trucks are getting very old and many problems will happen. corrosion is going to happen. the wiggle test is always a good one... moisture and connectors will create a High resistance. after you clean connections for a very low resistance or a no resistance you forgot or don't know or don't care or are uneducated that you should learn to protect this connection with a simple injection of a thing called [ DIELECTRIC GREASE ] YOU should do your homework on DIELECTRIC GREASE... you can tell your customer you removed the POTENTIAL REOCCURRING corrosion issue on this connection that can last a life time. DIELECTRIC GREASE will stop MOISTURE you will learn... and the customer will come back for repairs because they will have trust in you...
I just went through the exact same problem, yes it was the same issue as shown on the video.
I ❤️ the fact that some people are absolutely aware of the Ford issue that actually occurs.
Thank you for your teaching opportunity in this matter
Thanks for sharing!
Good systematic, comprehensive approach. When you follow the data you can never go wrong! 👍🏻👌🏼
Thanks for watching!
I know this is an older video but thanks for making it. My distributor went bad and after replacement it will only crank/no start. Now I have somewhere new to look. The wiring in the truck has been pretty shoddy in most connectors so hopefully this is it.
Thanks for video I have 1996 ford f150 v8 xl efi, this was the problem had corrosion in pcm connectors, when I unplug it an plug it back in truck started up no problem
Thanks for sharing!
I dont understand where you came from. TH-cam been hiding you from me all this time. Your content is awesome! Glad you have the fix in most cases.
I appreciate that!
Excellent diagnostic video. My 95 bronco is doing the same thing.
Nice find thanks for sharing your troubleshooting steps. Have a good one. Artie 👍
Thanks, you too!
Thank you for this great video. My ‘95 F150 runs, then while driving at it shuts off for a second as if I turned off the ignition key. Then after 1 second it comes back to life. If I’m accelerating it really jerks when doing that. This is very random and does not happen very often. Then I also run into the cranking and no start. I was suspecting the PIP sensor, but I will also check the connectors and fuse.
Great diagnosis!
Thanks!
Awesome job; thanks - this might help my 95 L6!
Great to hear!
Good diagnosis
Thanks!
My f150 does the same thing need the machine square wave machine love the video
Corrosion is a pain sometimes 😂, great job 👏🏼
💯 Thanks for watching!
Well done 👍
Thank you!
Great auto diagnostic channel 👌 amazing still few subscribers 😮 wishing you good luck 👍🏿
Thank you very much!
I agree, excellent Diagnostic skills, hidden Gem for a channel. I’m sure his channel will blow up in time. 🔧😃🔧
I need to learn how to put my wiring diagrams up in the video like you do😃
@@lakesautomotivediagnostics6509 Thanks! I just use a desktop screen recorder, and I edit on Capcut pc. As Eric O says if I can do it you can do it😄I learned it all on TH-cam.
Excellent vid. I believe the square wave is a very low current signal. So a little bit of fluff on that one could negate the signal. I thought u might pull out the MT 2400. I think it has all the diagram for all the connections built in to the program for those old cars. Mine does. It seems u have an All Data subscription. Getting pretty necessary now. I am watching all your vids. U gots it going on!!
Thank you so much! Yes, in today's vehicles, you need service info. Before I was doing diagnostics professionally, I used the information on an old Modis. The Mt2400 I only got a few months ago.
thank you sir, this is great
Thanks for watching!
Nice work! I’m surprised that the truck hasn’t rotted away due to the N.J. salt!
Thanks for watching! Yes, I was just as surprised; we don't get those age vehicles here too often!
dude you are a beast. doing shit like the diamond tweezer thing to get the oxidation off is pro
Love your videos.
Curious if shop owners ever criticize you for wire piercing? A couple of times shop owners criticized me about it, I told them they were too stupid to figure out the problem and even more stupid for criticizing the man who saved their ass after the parts canon failed.
No shop ever had a problem, but I was definitely berated online lol
@@advancedleveldiagnostics LOL, thank you for the reply, berated online by idiots who could not fix a sandwich?
Under your hood, Relay box. Second relay from the bottom. Fuel pump relay gets corrosive, Take out clean or replace.
Thanks for watching! A bad fuel pump relay would not cause no spark, This had fuel but no spark.
Thanks for another informative to the point video. I'd like to ask which of the auto information sites you would recommend for wiring and general repair information. Thanks again
I think if you can only get 1 it would be AllData, They have the most info IMO and the most user friendly. I still thinks Identifix is great to have for the tech tips, If you have a system you are not familiar with alot of times a tech will have a way to test something that you didn't think of, saving a lot of time.
Thanks for the response. I'll take a look at both. As far as finding new ways to test systems. That's the reason I watch you.
I have a 99 with the same problem. Took to 3 mechanics who I suspect got their licenses from a Cracker Jack box. Last one told me it was my computer. I’ve replaced cpk sensors, cam sensor, still no spark. Yesterday I pulled out my computer to get the codes for a new one. Ima put it back and check this out! Thanks buddy
Hope it helps! There is also an ignition capacitor that sometimes goes bad.
I'm sorry just looked up the 99 and it's a whole diffrent system.
@@advancedleveldiagnostics no worries buddy. Thanks for responding at all lol. The computer itself I was taking a closer look has 2 char marks on the outside metal plate. Maybe it is the dang ecc 😢
@@advancedleveldiagnostics it was a damn ignition wire! I guess before I had the truck, it had some security system. Whoever took it out slapped a 10vt cable to the 30vt ignition cable. Saw it as I was replacing my switch. Put the proper cable and now she lives!!! 🤣. Surprised it lasted this long before finally burning out tho. Ive had it for about 6 years. Anyways super happy it wasn’t something pricier. Thanks again. 👍🏽
@@chancho1002 Glad you got it figured it out!
The damn ford no spark ,I know ford all to well!! Those coils crack sometimes,let in moisture and you get no spark!!! Had fuel pumps,fuel pump relays, starter solinode ,the ones on inner fender, all go bad!! They rust so bad,the inner fenders have a large gap,where road salt gets in and rust your manifold bolts to crap!! And they leak!! I can go on and on!!! Thanks ,great job in finding, bad corrosion in the connecter pins!!
Thanks, Jeff! This one was not as rusty as I expected!
@@advancedleveldiagnostics I hope this fix my problem I’m going to clean it up vefore I move to change that ecm I have same problem and I found that my power steering pump cup was lose and spell fluid all over so it might get in to that harnes
nice work flow work the plan plan the work
Thanks!
I just want to say Seeing this video has be Fantastic and it vary well may be what i am having because i have a 94 and
its doing a similar thing where it wants to start but their is No spark Replace the Coil, and Distributer Cap so thoes are Brand new Thank you Vary much for this Video imma Go check that and see if that fixes it any Tips if it does not ?
PS the Coil Was Pretty Rusty around the outside and the Clip that was on the old one Looked Factory,
NOTE: I do not have access to any of thoes Gadgets, that you have their,
What part number lights do you use for load testing? I want to make a couple. Great videos.
I have a 194, 3157, H11, and a 9003 (with the high and low beam tied together for 10amps). That's all I remember off hand😃
👍👍👍
What scope is that?
Edit never mind I see you answered that already.
I replaced my distributor and the problem went away. 96 F250 5.8.
Great work. What is the name of that scope you use in the video?
Thanks! It is the AES wave uScope; it is in a case made by @jarheaddiagnostics.
www.aeswave.com/uScope-Basic-Kit-p9621.html
www.jarheaddiag.com/shop/p/uscopecase
I see u are using Panasonic toughbook what is your scope where did u get them from ???
I see in comments further down great video exelant trouble shooting
Have a 1994 Ford lightning just giving me the same problem can you direct me to need help change the distributor and ignition coil still nothing no spark
Do you have power to the coil and ignition control module?
@@advancedleveldiagnosticshaving the same problem. Mechanic changed ICM, Coil, and distributor. Gets a reading but too low. Is leaning towards it being the computer but hard to find. Its a 1995 ford f150 eddie bauer 5.8L. Original problem was hard slams when it tranisitioned from 2nd to 3rd gear, 3rd to 4th. After sitting a couple months with starts every other day, one day i started it up 5 mins later it was off on its own and wouldnt start up since. Im desperate man. My truck looks pristine and only has 80k original miles. I dont wanna lose her.
What’s the name of the website you are using
All Data
Not sure whats up with everyone with the piercing of wires? We out here trying to keep trucks like this running. Nail polish is the last thing this truck needs.😊
You need to trust your connection otherwise, you're doubting your tests; the nail polish will easily outlast the truck. Thanks for watching!
@@advancedleveldiagnostics no bro. Not against piercing wires. Just noticed everyone who is doing diagnosing. Of late have to show that they are using nail polish or electrical tape because they are getting trolled about piercing wires. I pierce all the time. Either you want it fix or not.
@@djmobileauto Got it🤣I was getting comments on every video "reminding" me to fix the holes. So I now try to include it if I remember at the time.
what brand of tester are you using
The scope is an AES wave uScope in a @jarheaddiagnostic case. I'm assuming that's the tester you were asking about.
No entiendo en ingles podria ponet el video em español
Sorry I don't know Spanish.
Advanced level? Ha. Front proping connectors is a no no.
With Ford tfi, check for pip signal first. It saves time. Also if the coil has 12 volts the distributor and icm will too. They all get power from the same circuit.
Front probing is only a problem if you use something that will spread the terminal. The tip of my light bulb is a tiny needle that just touches the top of the terminal.