Good job! You are 100% accurate with your structural repairs. It was common on 90's Fox bodies for factory assembly to be off. Example: floors were welded to the rockers as 10mm high. Made for fun with the measuring system. By the way: 40 year certified structural tech, here. Keep up the good work!
This problem does not stop at Ford either! I worked on the building the New Paint shop at GM's OKC plant in about 2001 and occasionally outside the fence you'd see a 20Yard Dumpster getting hauled away to the Scrap Yard with a couple of Galvanized Malibu Bodies inside it!.........ooops!
5mm of tolerance on this is still acceptable at the plant. There is a reason the fender has 1 cm of adjustment in every direction. Sometimes they still don’t have enough and let them out the door anyway. You don’t have to be as precise with the old ones but if you are, reassembly is a breeze and fitment ends up better than factory. It’s fun working on the old stuff, minus the rust, of course.
@@vehcor I like your trammel rod. What brand is is and how much does it cost? I have a Wurth trammel and it annoys me that it is very limited in measuring shorter lengths; under ~80 cm.
I just want to comment that you are an incredibly talented car repair expert Scott. I have seen my share of car repair channels, however I have not witnessed the amount of accuracy and "just do it right the first time" ethic that you bring to the table sir. In my opinion, you are in a class all by yourself. I am not even going to attempt to address your very wicked wit and awesome dry sense of humor, because that would require an entire new comment, with which to praise your skill and I don't want to make your head "too" big! You really are something else though! Thank You for all of your hard work in making these videos for all to learn from. Fred
That was interesting with learning the hard way that rails have to be straight up and down and how to fix one if it's twisted. That sure would throw thing out of wack if it was twisted. Pretty logical how you would fix a twisted rail.
It is something that once it burns you, you watch for it in the future. I only made that mistake once, unlike the touching hot parts which I seem to learn over and over.
These were designed and built before robotic precision really gained a foothold in the industry - so it's essentially hand-built but with union labor instead of craftspeople. Not surprising they got it wrong so often. That's why so much adjustment was designed in. It was also the last year of a 14-yo design, I'm not surprised if the tooling was completely worn out by then too.
My first job out of high school was at a paint n body shop...before working there i had wrecked my 1980 firebird....the shop that fixed it did a crappy job and something always seemed off...fast forward ....a saleman for a frame repair system came to sell the shop a frame measuring device....he used my firebird to demo the device...boy was my frame screwed...the shop that had...fixed it...did everything but...i ended up taking it to one of the best frame shops in town to get it fixed right....they ripped me off just the same and did little in the way of repairing it right
I hope young wrench turners realize how much good info they can get from these videos. It used to be a real struggle to get any information about how to do many of these types of repairs. Lots of trial and errors and lots of butchered work. I’ve started to do more work on my vehicles again. I’ve had a few cars along the way that I wish I’d have held onto because the internet provides access to parts and that was always the biggest problem. …. Really enjoy seeing how to fix things properly.
Ford guy here. I'm a fan of the foxes, one of the cars in the daily driver rotation is a '92 5.0/AOD coupe, and I have a '93 Cobra that I bought new. The coupe is welded together very well, with all good body gaps, all original body panels, and no witness marks where anything had to be adjusted after the fact. The Cobra is another story entirely. I bought it new with 11 miles on it, drove it home, and after the shiny new car blindness faded, I went over it with a fine tooth eyeball and found that every single body panel except the right door was misaligned, in some cases badly. I pulled out the tools and went to work, and was able to get everything pretty good except the hatch. The hatch lid was bolted down at the hinges too far rearward and adjusted too high at the latch, and when I returned it to the proper location, I saw why. Ford welded the 1/4 panels too far apart, so with the hatch centered, both 1/4s are a good 1/8" further out than the sides of the hatch - and when it is down where it needs to be, it strikes the jamb area on both sides and mars the paint. Wonderful. So I had to make a few compromises in the adjustment, and it looks decent but not perfect. I considered pulling the interior trim out, making some pull plates and pulling both 1/4s together with a comealong, but I didn't want to risk something going awry, or something happening to the factory paint, which is actually pretty nice. So it's like that to this day. So what's the excuse? There isn't one, it's a factory f**kup of the first order. Why did they do that to this car, when I haven't seen this particular error on any other fox hatchbacks? Why mine? UAW, tooling dating back to the '70s, the jig went out of spec and they just let a few cars go anyway, who knows. These were cheap cars, built to a price and slapped together fast to meet demand. Apparently some shifts cared more than others.
My favorite factory F-up from the 90's was the Hecho de Mexico Honda replacement core supports. Most of them were 8-10mm out of square. What a treat. Bottom measurements were correct and top was way off. And as you know the top had to be perfect or the friggin headlights would fit like sh!t.
Happy Friday Scott. Thanks for the training regarding the question you were asked about repairing a twisting. Nothing it seems is too tough for you to handle. I was blown away by the factories idea of good enough. You were right, must have been the last thing Friday or as my neighbor used to say the first thing on Monday. Your knowledge and experience allows you to take it all in stride, showing us we don’t have to get upset, just fix it. After all I know I’d rather have it take more time and cost more knowing it was fixed correctly and not just good enough. Have a super weekend! See you next Friday, or whenever the next episode drops.
Great tutorial professor Scott! That is a good way to address good questions. I just wish I could have you fix my 87 hatchback, but i know you probably don't need another Furd to work on! 😂
I bet the 'Experts' do not know that when Japanese cars are off loaded at Seattle that there is a Body and Paint Shop on the Pier to fix the cars damaged in shipment from Japan! .....(and yes the Body and Paint Shop is signatory to a Fair Labor Agreement as well!)
This channel is always very interesting ( and i follow a lot ) the tone and the personnality of this man are very funny ... well... thank you from France .
Just finished a frame off resto of a 65 pontiac. There was a several inch long weld on a frame rail that had not touched the second piece of metal at all along its length. Wheelbase was 6mm shorter on one side to the other. LH door hinges needed adjustment slots lengthening to get aft door gaps equal on both sides. The problem lies with us applying modern expectations of vehicle panel fit to old buggys.
Whenever I've dealt with exhaust fasteners, I always liberally coat the new parts with high-temp anti-seize to improve my chances if there is a next time.
Thanks for the instruction scott it’s always nice to be educated by someone who knows what they are doing and has had to overcome problems they have faced, great post again scott, ps I was searching for the haters comments but could only find well done ones , perhaps I should have scrolled down more but I got bored searching so you’ll have to do more searching than me scott
@vehcor oh hell yeah, definitely!!! Those make good videos. I'm not gonna lie, but I would love to see you do a series on fixing an F150. I know it's a Ford, but I own one (2011), and I am kinda partial to them.🍻
2:26 I've had to straighten floor joists and studs the same way. What I've done is put a huge C clamp pointing upwards and pull on that so it rotates the whole thing. The trick with framing is: get one of your buddies to nail it in place while you're yanking on it, :-) Once you get all the blocking and flooring in place, it holds fine and is actually more rigid since it's under tension. I could see putting the clamp so it sticks out to the left and then pulling it down. It's all about angles and leverage.
no, never not a union job. we all know union jobs are done to the highest standards, completed on time , under or at budget. mustve been a sub contracted non union hack assembly line that built this one
Ford is not the only manufacturer that had assembly line goofs during that era. I was a lot boy for a GM dealer around 1984-1985 and was helping the body shop install a windshield for some large Oldsmobuick (think Delta 88 or LeSabre) that the customer had been complaining about a water leak on the passenger side. Turns out the passenger A-pillar was about an inch back from the driver's side on the top corner. We discovered this by laying the windshield in place without any adhesive. The windshield was sat flush everywhere but the top right corner where you could easily insert your fingers and not touch metal or glass. Body shop guy pulled the windshield and reinstalled it with the adhesive then filled the gap with more adhesive and prayed it would not leak anymore.
However, Ford fans are the only ones that refuse to accept that their brand is just as flawed as all the others so it makes it more fun to pick on them. 😂
One machinist I knew would take the next size bigger nut and weld it to the broken stud thru the inside of the nut. Can be effective even if the stud is broke off flush.
I look forward to Fridays at 3:00 to watch your channel . I think your taking the time to explain the front frame twisting was great ! I personally as a retired Volvo parts manager at 63 always enjoy learning your side of the body repair business . I Most enjoy your frame techniques from every angle . I appreciate the fact that you took the time to show a factory defect of a 30 year old car that was done at the Factory and the clear conseice of the difference from both sides helped my to understand . the measurements and the way you scribed the right inner structure before and the repair after were spot on ! Is the red Buick two door with nautical front plate your personal car ?
My mate who worked for Leyland Australia told me a story from his colleague who worked for Ford Australia when they moved from building English Escorts to Ford Lasers (Mazda 323s) in 1979-80. They were concerned that there were no adjustments for the bonnet (hood) fitting. The Japanese engineers helping them set up production said they didn’t need any. Designed to be built by robots, there was no way an Aussie human could stuff it up. Warranty claims for body issues dropped to almost zero.
I did a '57 Mercury once where the factory assembly got messed up by two inches in the bracing behind the rear seat. So much so that they had to take a hammer and beat the L shaped brace flat on one end, then they put a couple more spot welds. On the same car, most of the rear inner quarter spot welds were not fused together well. Must have had a terrible rattle over all those years. Yeah, it was a convertible too. The whole body was kinda elastic.
If you are rebuilding this for the afternoon crew she is going to love the car knowing her dad fixed shoddy factory work while repairing old damage and who knows she might soup up the 5.0 with a supercharger
A lot of people say they don't build them like they used to. For that I say thank God. Build quality on older cars was not good, especially American cars
hasnt improved much either in 50+ years. factory installed rattles, loose bolts/missing bolts are common. UAW cries pay us more so we can continue doing sub standard work
Great job. Well done. To be fair, that whole "Monday Friday" thing was based on a deep dive into several North American Manufacturers...... so, it wasn't ONLY Ford, that they were talking about in that report, which goes way back.... the late 80's?? Hard to remember.
While you were working on the exhaust manifold studs I remembered hearing about 50 years ago how a banana (performance) branch manifold was made. Fact or fiction? Straight pipes were attached to each exhaust outlet and the engine was then fired up. It was run (and revved I suppose) until the pipes discolored. When the discoloring stopped, the pipes were cut at this point and bent into the 'banana' shape to come together at the exhaust mounting plate.
Time 2300 It is either that 5.0 or the 3.8 V6 that has a steel mesh filter under the PCV valve. These would sludge up causing all blow by to end up in the air filter or other places where oil can leak out.
I used to love getting the hood lights from Fords like this one has... the built in tilt switch is nice. But now they get removed before cars go to the boneyard. Too bad, I'd like to find one for my new-to-me 89 F150.
Thank you so much for your patience and understanding to those of us who don't know but are looking to learn. Greatly appreciated!
No problem. I had the luxury of looking over the shoulder of the guys I learned from.
Good job! You are 100% accurate with your structural repairs. It was common on 90's Fox bodies for factory assembly to be off. Example: floors were welded to the rockers as 10mm high. Made for fun with the measuring system. By the way: 40 year certified structural tech, here. Keep up the good work!
This problem does not stop at Ford either! I worked on the building the New Paint shop at GM's OKC plant in about 2001 and occasionally outside the fence you'd see a 20Yard Dumpster getting hauled away to the Scrap Yard with a couple of Galvanized Malibu Bodies inside it!.........ooops!
how the hell did they managed to get it so wrong by half a cm ?
@nemergix1707, If you use inch ruler you cannot ask mm's accuracy
5mm of tolerance on this is still acceptable at the plant. There is a reason the fender has 1 cm of adjustment in every direction. Sometimes they still don’t have enough and let them out the door anyway. You don’t have to be as precise with the old ones but if you are, reassembly is a breeze and fitment ends up better than factory. It’s fun working on the old stuff, minus the rust, of course.
@@vehcor I like your trammel rod. What brand is is and how much does it cost?
I have a Wurth trammel and it annoys me that it is very limited in measuring shorter lengths; under ~80 cm.
I just want to comment that you are an incredibly talented car repair expert Scott. I have seen my share of car repair channels, however I have not witnessed the amount of accuracy and "just do it right the first time" ethic that you bring to the table sir. In my opinion, you are in a class all by yourself. I am not even going to attempt to address your very wicked wit and awesome dry sense of humor, because that would require an entire new comment, with which to praise your skill and I don't want to make your head "too" big! You really are something else though! Thank You for all of your hard work in making these videos for all to learn from. Fred
Thanks for the support! I hate doing a job twice so I put in a little extra effort to avoid it. They say, “there is no traffic on the extra mile.”
Scott, by far the best channel on youtube. I am amazed at your knowledge and your patience to teach us.
I’ve been doing it for a long time, you gain a little knowledge through experience over the years.
That was interesting with learning the hard way that rails have to be straight up and down and how to fix one if it's twisted. That sure would throw thing out of wack if it was twisted. Pretty logical how you would fix a twisted rail.
It is something that once it burns you, you watch for it in the future. I only made that mistake once, unlike the touching hot parts which I seem to learn over and over.
These were designed and built before robotic precision really gained a foothold in the industry - so it's essentially hand-built but with union labor instead of craftspeople. Not surprising they got it wrong so often. That's why so much adjustment was designed in. It was also the last year of a 14-yo design, I'm not surprised if the tooling was completely worn out by then too.
I had a twisted rail on my truck, porta power and some swearing. Fixed it right up.
That is also an acceptable method of repair! 😂
My first job out of high school was at a paint n body shop...before working there i had wrecked my 1980 firebird....the shop that fixed it did a crappy job and something always seemed off...fast forward ....a saleman for a frame repair system came to sell the shop a frame measuring device....he used my firebird to demo the device...boy was my frame screwed...the shop that had...fixed it...did everything but...i ended up taking it to one of the best frame shops in town to get it fixed right....they ripped me off just the same and did little in the way of repairing it right
You're a good teacher. I'm fine with you answering questions via video, which actually reaches more people than a typed answer. 👍👍👍
That was funny as you inserted Gretta in the picture. That "I'm 16" and I no everything mouth and snarled look.
Go ahead and use Fram that way the shells will be full ofWix when I need one
Scott: I didn't ask, but thank you for explaining why a twisted frame rail is a big deal. I always heard that a bent frame is, well, a DOA vehicle.
For body on frame, yes, for the most part. Unibody is different.
The Master is back! Best in the business. Well done Scott....Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge and Humor!!!
Thanks for the support!
You're a great teacher Scott. I always appreciate the learning.
Learn something new on EVERY video. Thanks Scott.
Glad to hear it!
I am Diesel Technician but enjoying your work, I never did body work before. I like to learn the techniques.
Love the lessons, Scott. Thanks for sharing.
No problem!
I hope young wrench turners realize how much good info they can get from these videos. It used to be a real struggle to get any information about how to do many of these types of repairs. Lots of trial and errors and lots of butchered work.
I’ve started to do more work on my vehicles again. I’ve had a few cars along the way that I wish I’d have held onto because the internet provides access to parts and that was always the biggest problem. …. Really enjoy seeing how to fix things properly.
Great Video! I really admired how you took the time to explain how and why! Made all the difference in this video! Can't wait for the next one!
I could not ask for a better explanation of a circumstance that I found to be a head scratcher. Great technique and a real fix. Thanks, Scott.
Awesome job. I learn from you every time i watch. Thank you.
Thanks for the support!
Great video! People on the production line are taught to trust certain things and never how to measure and see for themselves.
It seems the entire world has been taught to never question anything, anymore!
Ford guy here. I'm a fan of the foxes, one of the cars in the daily driver rotation is a '92 5.0/AOD coupe, and I have a '93 Cobra that I bought new. The coupe is welded together very well, with all good body gaps, all original body panels, and no witness marks where anything had to be adjusted after the fact. The Cobra is another story entirely. I bought it new with 11 miles on it, drove it home, and after the shiny new car blindness faded, I went over it with a fine tooth eyeball and found that every single body panel except the right door was misaligned, in some cases badly.
I pulled out the tools and went to work, and was able to get everything pretty good except the hatch. The hatch lid was bolted down at the hinges too far rearward and adjusted too high at the latch, and when I returned it to the proper location, I saw why. Ford welded the 1/4 panels too far apart, so with the hatch centered, both 1/4s are a good 1/8" further out than the sides of the hatch - and when it is down where it needs to be, it strikes the jamb area on both sides and mars the paint. Wonderful. So I had to make a few compromises in the adjustment, and it looks decent but not perfect. I considered pulling the interior trim out, making some pull plates and pulling both 1/4s together with a comealong, but I didn't want to risk something going awry, or something happening to the factory paint, which is actually pretty nice. So it's like that to this day.
So what's the excuse? There isn't one, it's a factory f**kup of the first order. Why did they do that to this car, when I haven't seen this particular error on any other fox hatchbacks? Why mine? UAW, tooling dating back to the '70s, the jig went out of spec and they just let a few cars go anyway, who knows. These were cheap cars, built to a price and slapped together fast to meet demand. Apparently some shifts cared more than others.
If buyers keep buying, no reason to fix it. Tesla is still like that today.
I like you explaining why you do what you do to make things fit right.
So much skill and attention to detail. Someone's going to get a lovely car.
Amazing video as always! Thank you for your time 😊
Really good. One of your best explanation videos. 😁👍
Thanks!
My favorite factory F-up from the 90's was the Hecho de Mexico Honda replacement core supports. Most of them were 8-10mm out of square. What a treat. Bottom measurements were correct and top was way off. And as you know the top had to be perfect or the friggin headlights would fit like sh!t.
Best rebuild channel on TH-cam.... brilliant 👍👍
Thanks 👍
I love watching this channel always learning something new
Happy Friday Scott. Thanks for the training regarding the question you were asked about repairing a twisting. Nothing it seems is too tough for you to handle. I was blown away by the factories idea of good enough. You were right, must have been the last thing Friday or as my neighbor used to say the first thing on Monday. Your knowledge and experience allows you to take it all in stride, showing us we don’t have to get upset, just fix it. After all I know I’d rather have it take more time and cost more knowing it was fixed correctly and not just good enough. Have a super weekend! See you next Friday, or whenever the next episode drops.
Sadly, tolerances of every brand back then were similar. Things have certainly changed. Thanks for the support!
30 years old and made by ford, rust and damage free is remarkable.
These are hard to find in this condition, especially around me.
Excellent straightforward explanation Scott, keep it up!
Will do!
Great tutorial professor Scott! That is a good way to address good questions. I just wish I could have you fix my 87 hatchback, but i know you probably don't need another Furd to work on! 😂
You might want to rethink that. Mustangs only come to me to die and be dismembered! 😂
I spy with my little eye..... a red Buick Reatta. Is that the next project in the queue?
NO! 🤮
I bet the 'Experts' do not know that when Japanese cars are off loaded at Seattle that there is a Body and Paint Shop on the Pier to fix the cars damaged in shipment from Japan! .....(and yes the Body and Paint Shop is signatory to a Fair Labor Agreement as well!)
Great work on the repairs. That being said, I'll keep all of my Fords before I lower myself to any GM product. :P
I was not expecting that "how dare you" in there. 10/10
This channel is always very interesting ( and i follow a lot ) the tone and the personnality of this man are very funny ... well... thank you from France .
I don't know what is better, your work, or your humor? Keep up the great work.
Just finished a frame off resto of a 65 pontiac.
There was a several inch long weld on a frame rail that had not touched the second piece of metal at all along its length.
Wheelbase was 6mm shorter on one side to the other.
LH door hinges needed adjustment slots lengthening to get aft door gaps equal on both sides.
The problem lies with us applying modern expectations of vehicle panel fit to old buggys.
great video. For stubborn exhaust bolts, I use Snap-On pipe wrench PW2.
I believe the expression you're looking for as my old boss used to say ...it doesn't have to float
What if I was rebuilding a Hellcat challenger? 😂
Whenever I've dealt with exhaust fasteners, I always liberally coat the new parts with high-temp anti-seize to improve my chances if there is a next time.
Looks good! I’ve see so many hacks. You did it right!
I've found that if you replace the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe nuts with brass/bronze ones it solves many problems down the road.
Ford engineer guy here again to defend the brand.... Yeah, I got nothin. :)
😂
I love your explanations and your work/technique.
Thanks Scott for such informative educational instructive helpful and friendly repairs for FORDS.
Excellent explanation on the twist solution…. 5 millymeters? The metric system… look at the big brain on Brad.
Thank you Scott.
This might be your best yet! I can't wait to see it finished.
Thanks for the instruction scott it’s always nice to be educated by someone who knows what they are doing and has had to overcome problems they have faced, great post again scott, ps I was searching for the haters comments but could only find well done ones , perhaps I should have scrolled down more but I got bored searching so you’ll have to do more searching than me scott
yea! it's cool! Thank you for remined me of the old day's of straightening frames and all that comes with it. Good work and humor!
Freakin awesome video.... Thanks for the tips and tricks you always seem to share.
I have done a few of those front corners on fords and they are always off a little. No two are the same. Gotta be a Friday evening shift build.
Happy Friday, Scott! Blessed us with two videos this week!👍🍻
Happy Friday! I really need to do some auction scammer ones, I have seen a bunch lately from our two favorite sellers.
@vehcor oh hell yeah, definitely!!! Those make good videos. I'm not gonna lie, but I would love to see you do a series on fixing an F150. I know it's a Ford, but I own one (2011), and I am kinda partial to them.🍻
Never gets old. you're a bad ass my friend
Knowledge is great but there is no substitute for experience and wisdom along with
Agreed!
2:26 I've had to straighten floor joists and studs the same way. What I've done is put a huge C clamp pointing upwards and pull on that so it rotates the whole thing. The trick with framing is: get one of your buddies to nail it in place while you're yanking on it, :-) Once you get all the blocking and flooring in place, it holds fine and is actually more rigid since it's under tension.
I could see putting the clamp so it sticks out to the left and then pulling it down.
It's all about angles and leverage.
That front core support/apron was definitely a "just send it out and let them fix it later" UAW job.
no, never not a union job. we all know union jobs are done to the highest standards, completed on time , under or at budget. mustve been a sub contracted non union hack assembly line that built this one
@@harveylong5878 sounds like your a little bitter.
Ford is not the only manufacturer that had assembly line goofs during that era. I was a lot boy for a GM dealer around 1984-1985 and was helping the body shop install a windshield for some large Oldsmobuick (think Delta 88 or LeSabre) that the customer had been complaining about a water leak on the passenger side. Turns out the passenger A-pillar was about an inch back from the driver's side on the top corner. We discovered this by laying the windshield in place without any adhesive. The windshield was sat flush everywhere but the top right corner where you could easily insert your fingers and not touch metal or glass. Body shop guy pulled the windshield and reinstalled it with the adhesive then filled the gap with more adhesive and prayed it would not leak anymore.
However, Ford fans are the only ones that refuse to accept that their brand is just as flawed as all the others so it makes it more fun to pick on them. 😂
One machinist I knew would take the next size bigger nut and weld it to the broken stud thru the inside of the nut. Can be effective even if the stud is broke off flush.
That was plan B.
Scott outstanding progress on the Mustang! Also great solution to the Ford defect! I am looking forward to the next video!
Foxbody mustangs are my favorite cars (coupe variety). Part of why I love them is for that reason, they are not at all perfect.
It’s fun to work on stuff that you don’t have to be a perfectionist and still end up with a good product.
I need to buy this convertible when it’s done. Hopefully I can afford it.
thanks for spending the time to explain
I look forward to Fridays at 3:00 to watch your channel . I think your taking the time to explain the front frame twisting was great ! I personally as a retired Volvo parts manager at 63 always enjoy learning your side of the body repair business . I Most enjoy your frame techniques from every angle . I appreciate the fact that you took the time to show a factory defect of a 30 year old car that was done at the Factory and the clear conseice of the difference from both sides helped my to understand . the measurements and the way you scribed the right inner structure before and the repair after were spot on ! Is the red Buick two door with nautical front plate your personal car ?
GREAT info and video! *GM* all the way wish this was a F-Body Z28 !
Great job buddy can’t wait to see it painted. Shout out to you from Mexico
Thanks for the excellent start of the weekend ::D
No problem!
As much as you (we GM guys) would like to pick at Ford about quality control issues, we all know every car company ever, has these same issues.
Everyone knows that… except the Ford fans, that think their brand can do no wrong. That is what makes them so much fun to antagonize! 😂
Great video enjoy watching keep up the great work
Awesome job, better than new.
They didn’t set the bar too high! 😂
My mate who worked for Leyland Australia told me a story from his colleague who worked for Ford Australia when they moved from building English Escorts to Ford Lasers (Mazda 323s) in 1979-80. They were concerned that there were no adjustments for the bonnet (hood) fitting. The Japanese engineers helping them set up production said they didn’t need any. Designed to be built by robots, there was no way an Aussie human could stuff it up. Warranty claims for body issues dropped to almost zero.
Nice work. Thanks for showing us what to do'
Thanks for the video Scott.
I’m at an expert at not being a mechanic yet I still watch your videos.
Thanks, you don’t have to use information everyday to want to learn it.
This is such the best video you've authored yet!!!!
This winter would be an awesome time to showcase the typhoon. Maintenance segment or just show it off.
15:12 Your prop rod is in the prop storage room next to the fake noses and rubber guns.
I did a '57 Mercury once where the factory assembly got messed up by two inches in the bracing behind the rear seat. So much so that they had to take a hammer and beat the L shaped brace flat on one end, then they put a couple more spot welds. On the same car, most of the rear inner quarter spot welds were not fused together well. Must have had a terrible rattle over all those years. Yeah, it was a convertible too. The whole body was kinda elastic.
Thanks again Scott for another awesome video.
By the time you get done scribing your marks the thickness of the apron will be less than half of what it was! 😂
Makes it move easier! 😂
we said at the dealer "Ford where quantity is job one" :)
Excellent work it looks great. Good catch on the Ford boo boo. Enjoying watching this project.
If you are rebuilding this for the afternoon crew she is going to love the car knowing her dad fixed shoddy factory work while repairing old damage and who knows she might soup up the 5.0 with a supercharger
Happy Friday best to you and yours.Thanks for sharing.
Fun build
A lot of people say they don't build them like they used to. For that I say thank God. Build quality on older cars was not good, especially American cars
hasnt improved much either in 50+ years. factory installed rattles, loose bolts/missing bolts are common. UAW cries pay us more so we can continue doing sub standard work
Love learning the tricks of the trade (and the humor 🤣)
Thank you
Great job. Well done.
To be fair, that whole "Monday Friday" thing was based on a deep dive into several North American Manufacturers...... so, it wasn't ONLY Ford, that they were talking about in that report, which goes way back.... the late 80's?? Hard to remember.
Thanks
While you were working on the exhaust manifold studs I remembered hearing about 50 years ago how a banana (performance) branch manifold was made. Fact or fiction? Straight pipes were attached to each exhaust outlet and the engine was then fired up. It was run (and revved I suppose) until the pipes discolored. When the discoloring stopped, the pipes were cut at this point and bent into the 'banana' shape to come together at the exhaust mounting plate.
Great Job!!! Thank You... :-)
Thanks for the support!
Time 2300 It is either that 5.0 or the 3.8 V6 that has a steel mesh filter under the PCV valve. These would sludge up causing all blow by to end up in the air filter or other places where oil can leak out.
I used to love getting the hood lights from Fords like this one has... the built in tilt switch is nice. But now they get removed before cars go to the boneyard. Too bad, I'd like to find one for my new-to-me 89 F150.
🎵Have you had your Ford toooowed lately? 🎶
Those who say "I'd rather push a Ford than drive a chevy" usually do
Amazingly this one actually drove before I got to it! 😂
Hello Mr. Scott !