My first job out of high school was at a paint n body shop...before working there i had wrecked my 1980 firebird....the shop that fixed it did a crappy job and something always seemed off...fast forward ....a saleman for a frame repair system came to sell the shop a frame measuring device....he used my firebird to demo the device...boy was my frame screwed...the shop that had...fixed it...did everything but...i ended up taking it to one of the best frame shops in town to get it fixed right....they ripped me off just the same and did little in the way of repairing it right
Good job! You are 100% accurate with your structural repairs. It was common on 90's Fox bodies for factory assembly to be off. Example: floors were welded to the rockers as 10mm high. Made for fun with the measuring system. By the way: 40 year certified structural tech, here. Keep up the good work!
This problem does not stop at Ford either! I worked on the building the New Paint shop at GM's OKC plant in about 2001 and occasionally outside the fence you'd see a 20Yard Dumpster getting hauled away to the Scrap Yard with a couple of Galvanized Malibu Bodies inside it!.........ooops!
5mm of tolerance on this is still acceptable at the plant. There is a reason the fender has 1 cm of adjustment in every direction. Sometimes they still don’t have enough and let them out the door anyway. You don’t have to be as precise with the old ones but if you are, reassembly is a breeze and fitment ends up better than factory. It’s fun working on the old stuff, minus the rust, of course.
@@vehcor I like your trammel rod. What brand is is and how much does it cost? I have a Wurth trammel and it annoys me that it is very limited in measuring shorter lengths; under ~80 cm.
Wow, that looks so good. I wish I could get you to do my 1993 Ford Mustang radiator support. This is the definition of having pride in your work. A true craftsman.👍🏼👍🏼
These were designed and built before robotic precision really gained a foothold in the industry - so it's essentially hand-built but with union labor instead of craftspeople. Not surprising they got it wrong so often. That's why so much adjustment was designed in. It was also the last year of a 14-yo design, I'm not surprised if the tooling was completely worn out by then too.
I just want to comment that you are an incredibly talented car repair expert Scott. I have seen my share of car repair channels, however I have not witnessed the amount of accuracy and "just do it right the first time" ethic that you bring to the table sir. In my opinion, you are in a class all by yourself. I am not even going to attempt to address your very wicked wit and awesome dry sense of humor, because that would require an entire new comment, with which to praise your skill and I don't want to make your head "too" big! You really are something else though! Thank You for all of your hard work in making these videos for all to learn from. Fred
Ford guy here. I'm a fan of the foxes, one of the cars in the daily driver rotation is a '92 5.0/AOD coupe, and I have a '93 Cobra that I bought new. The coupe is welded together very well, with all good body gaps, all original body panels, and no witness marks where anything had to be adjusted after the fact. The Cobra is another story entirely. I bought it new with 11 miles on it, drove it home, and after the shiny new car blindness faded, I went over it with a fine tooth eyeball and found that every single body panel except the right door was misaligned, in some cases badly. I pulled out the tools and went to work, and was able to get everything pretty good except the hatch. The hatch lid was bolted down at the hinges too far rearward and adjusted too high at the latch, and when I returned it to the proper location, I saw why. Ford welded the 1/4 panels too far apart, so with the hatch centered, both 1/4s are a good 1/8" further out than the sides of the hatch - and when it is down where it needs to be, it strikes the jamb area on both sides and mars the paint. Wonderful. So I had to make a few compromises in the adjustment, and it looks decent but not perfect. I considered pulling the interior trim out, making some pull plates and pulling both 1/4s together with a comealong, but I didn't want to risk something going awry, or something happening to the factory paint, which is actually pretty nice. So it's like that to this day. So what's the excuse? There isn't one, it's a factory f**kup of the first order. Why did they do that to this car, when I haven't seen this particular error on any other fox hatchbacks? Why mine? UAW, tooling dating back to the '70s, the jig went out of spec and they just let a few cars go anyway, who knows. These were cheap cars, built to a price and slapped together fast to meet demand. Apparently some shifts cared more than others.
That was interesting with learning the hard way that rails have to be straight up and down and how to fix one if it's twisted. That sure would throw thing out of wack if it was twisted. Pretty logical how you would fix a twisted rail.
It is something that once it burns you, you watch for it in the future. I only made that mistake once, unlike the touching hot parts which I seem to learn over and over.
I hope young wrench turners realize how much good info they can get from these videos. It used to be a real struggle to get any information about how to do many of these types of repairs. Lots of trial and errors and lots of butchered work. I’ve started to do more work on my vehicles again. I’ve had a few cars along the way that I wish I’d have held onto because the internet provides access to parts and that was always the biggest problem. …. Really enjoy seeing how to fix things properly.
My favorite factory F-up from the 90's was the Hecho de Mexico Honda replacement core supports. Most of them were 8-10mm out of square. What a treat. Bottom measurements were correct and top was way off. And as you know the top had to be perfect or the friggin headlights would fit like sh!t.
Whenever I've dealt with exhaust fasteners, I always liberally coat the new parts with high-temp anti-seize to improve my chances if there is a next time.
Happy Friday Scott. Thanks for the training regarding the question you were asked about repairing a twisting. Nothing it seems is too tough for you to handle. I was blown away by the factories idea of good enough. You were right, must have been the last thing Friday or as my neighbor used to say the first thing on Monday. Your knowledge and experience allows you to take it all in stride, showing us we don’t have to get upset, just fix it. After all I know I’d rather have it take more time and cost more knowing it was fixed correctly and not just good enough. Have a super weekend! See you next Friday, or whenever the next episode drops.
Great tutorial professor Scott! That is a good way to address good questions. I just wish I could have you fix my 87 hatchback, but i know you probably don't need another Furd to work on! 😂
This channel is always very interesting ( and i follow a lot ) the tone and the personnality of this man are very funny ... well... thank you from France .
@vehcor oh hell yeah, definitely!!! Those make good videos. I'm not gonna lie, but I would love to see you do a series on fixing an F150. I know it's a Ford, but I own one (2011), and I am kinda partial to them.🍻
Thanks for the instruction scott it’s always nice to be educated by someone who knows what they are doing and has had to overcome problems they have faced, great post again scott, ps I was searching for the haters comments but could only find well done ones , perhaps I should have scrolled down more but I got bored searching so you’ll have to do more searching than me scott
Ford is not the only manufacturer that had assembly line goofs during that era. I was a lot boy for a GM dealer around 1984-1985 and was helping the body shop install a windshield for some large Oldsmobuick (think Delta 88 or LeSabre) that the customer had been complaining about a water leak on the passenger side. Turns out the passenger A-pillar was about an inch back from the driver's side on the top corner. We discovered this by laying the windshield in place without any adhesive. The windshield was sat flush everywhere but the top right corner where you could easily insert your fingers and not touch metal or glass. Body shop guy pulled the windshield and reinstalled it with the adhesive then filled the gap with more adhesive and prayed it would not leak anymore.
However, Ford fans are the only ones that refuse to accept that their brand is just as flawed as all the others so it makes it more fun to pick on them. 😂
One machinist I knew would take the next size bigger nut and weld it to the broken stud thru the inside of the nut. Can be effective even if the stud is broke off flush.
Never seen a fox front end tear down in that much detail. I have a 93 5.0 Hatchback LX. It was hit at the driver side front quarter panel before I owned it. It was "fixed", but the radiator support never straighten out completely on the top. Still has a buckle in it that has always driven me nuts. I've had the car for over fifteen years now. It drives fine , the car and panels look straight. But the idea that the frame rail might not be completely square also bothers me quite a bit. I just don't know for sure. I wish I could have someone like you look at it. Also can a hit like that cause the front window sill to buckle a little bit and cause a leak? Thanks!!! Ulises G.
I bet the 'Experts' do not know that when Japanese cars are off loaded at Seattle that there is a Body and Paint Shop on the Pier to fix the cars damaged in shipment from Japan! .....(and yes the Body and Paint Shop is signatory to a Fair Labor Agreement as well!)
2:26 I've had to straighten floor joists and studs the same way. What I've done is put a huge C clamp pointing upwards and pull on that so it rotates the whole thing. The trick with framing is: get one of your buddies to nail it in place while you're yanking on it, :-) Once you get all the blocking and flooring in place, it holds fine and is actually more rigid since it's under tension. I could see putting the clamp so it sticks out to the left and then pulling it down. It's all about angles and leverage.
no, never not a union job. we all know union jobs are done to the highest standards, completed on time , under or at budget. mustve been a sub contracted non union hack assembly line that built this one
My mate who worked for Leyland Australia told me a story from his colleague who worked for Ford Australia when they moved from building English Escorts to Ford Lasers (Mazda 323s) in 1979-80. They were concerned that there were no adjustments for the bonnet (hood) fitting. The Japanese engineers helping them set up production said they didn’t need any. Designed to be built by robots, there was no way an Aussie human could stuff it up. Warranty claims for body issues dropped to almost zero.
What would be interesting to know is what exactly the factory considered to be an allowable variance between being centered properly and not centered properly!
If it still fits in the oval holes and the gaps are somewhat uniform, it’s good. The collision industry actually had stricter standards for repair than manufacturers had for the original product.
Time 2300 It is either that 5.0 or the 3.8 V6 that has a steel mesh filter under the PCV valve. These would sludge up causing all blow by to end up in the air filter or other places where oil can leak out.
I used to love getting the hood lights from Fords like this one has... the built in tilt switch is nice. But now they get removed before cars go to the boneyard. Too bad, I'd like to find one for my new-to-me 89 F150.
21:33 I always think: manifold studs, how much extra would it cost to use stainless bolts and nuts? So when I put headers on my truck (cheaper than stock manifolds) I ordered all stainless studs and nuts to go with them because they were stainless too. How much? $3.00. For 20 studs, nuts and washers. If I can buy em for $3.00 the car makers could buy them for $2.00.
You are correct but even $1.00 times 1,000,000 units produced ends up costing more than the bean counters will allow. Not to mention they only need the parts to last as long as the warranty, after that, (I know this will be hard for people to hear) Manufacturers don’t care what happens to their cars when it is the customers’ expense.
@@vehcor and the dealers would make less money on repairs.....2 units to change a Y pipe? WHY? "cuz the bolts rust tight" Nowadays they do minimal testing on vehicles before putting them on the market. Let the customers be the test mules.....and pay for the privilege!! I learned years ago that they came up with 3 yrs 60,000 kms as the warranty period as that was the avg time a vehicle would last before requiring repairs so that's how they build them now. Only prob? They aren't building them to even last that!
I did a '57 Mercury once where the factory assembly got messed up by two inches in the bracing behind the rear seat. So much so that they had to take a hammer and beat the L shaped brace flat on one end, then they put a couple more spot welds. On the same car, most of the rear inner quarter spot welds were not fused together well. Must have had a terrible rattle over all those years. Yeah, it was a convertible too. The whole body was kinda elastic.
A lot of people say they don't build them like they used to. For that I say thank God. Build quality on older cars was not good, especially American cars
hasnt improved much either in 50+ years. factory installed rattles, loose bolts/missing bolts are common. UAW cries pay us more so we can continue doing sub standard work
I look forward to Fridays at 3:00 to watch your channel . I think your taking the time to explain the front frame twisting was great ! I personally as a retired Volvo parts manager at 63 always enjoy learning your side of the body repair business . I Most enjoy your frame techniques from every angle . I appreciate the fact that you took the time to show a factory defect of a 30 year old car that was done at the Factory and the clear conseice of the difference from both sides helped my to understand . the measurements and the way you scribed the right inner structure before and the repair after were spot on ! Is the red Buick two door with nautical front plate your personal car ?
If you are rebuilding this for the afternoon crew she is going to love the car knowing her dad fixed shoddy factory work while repairing old damage and who knows she might soup up the 5.0 with a supercharger
a friend of mine works stamping and welding parts for volkswagen, audi and lamborghini. and its still a very real issue despite all the automation and quality controls. especially with how cars are built now, one bend on one piece is a little bit off and it quickly affects the rest of the assembly. but its still accounted for and there's just enough room for adjustment
On these, close was always good enough. There is so much adjustment you can usually get it straight but sometimes they got so careless it was out of the range or adjustment and you ended up with poor fitment.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you so much for your patience and understanding to those of us who don't know but are looking to learn. Greatly appreciated!
No problem. I had the luxury of looking over the shoulder of the guys I learned from.
My first job out of high school was at a paint n body shop...before working there i had wrecked my 1980 firebird....the shop that fixed it did a crappy job and something always seemed off...fast forward ....a saleman for a frame repair system came to sell the shop a frame measuring device....he used my firebird to demo the device...boy was my frame screwed...the shop that had...fixed it...did everything but...i ended up taking it to one of the best frame shops in town to get it fixed right....they ripped me off just the same and did little in the way of repairing it right
Good job! You are 100% accurate with your structural repairs. It was common on 90's Fox bodies for factory assembly to be off. Example: floors were welded to the rockers as 10mm high. Made for fun with the measuring system. By the way: 40 year certified structural tech, here. Keep up the good work!
This problem does not stop at Ford either! I worked on the building the New Paint shop at GM's OKC plant in about 2001 and occasionally outside the fence you'd see a 20Yard Dumpster getting hauled away to the Scrap Yard with a couple of Galvanized Malibu Bodies inside it!.........ooops!
how the hell did they managed to get it so wrong by half a cm ?
@nemergix1707, If you use inch ruler you cannot ask mm's accuracy
5mm of tolerance on this is still acceptable at the plant. There is a reason the fender has 1 cm of adjustment in every direction. Sometimes they still don’t have enough and let them out the door anyway. You don’t have to be as precise with the old ones but if you are, reassembly is a breeze and fitment ends up better than factory. It’s fun working on the old stuff, minus the rust, of course.
@@vehcor I like your trammel rod. What brand is is and how much does it cost?
I have a Wurth trammel and it annoys me that it is very limited in measuring shorter lengths; under ~80 cm.
Wow, that looks so good. I wish I could get you to do my 1993 Ford Mustang radiator support. This is the definition of having pride in your work. A true craftsman.👍🏼👍🏼
These were designed and built before robotic precision really gained a foothold in the industry - so it's essentially hand-built but with union labor instead of craftspeople. Not surprising they got it wrong so often. That's why so much adjustment was designed in. It was also the last year of a 14-yo design, I'm not surprised if the tooling was completely worn out by then too.
I just want to comment that you are an incredibly talented car repair expert Scott. I have seen my share of car repair channels, however I have not witnessed the amount of accuracy and "just do it right the first time" ethic that you bring to the table sir. In my opinion, you are in a class all by yourself. I am not even going to attempt to address your very wicked wit and awesome dry sense of humor, because that would require an entire new comment, with which to praise your skill and I don't want to make your head "too" big! You really are something else though! Thank You for all of your hard work in making these videos for all to learn from. Fred
Thanks for the support! I hate doing a job twice so I put in a little extra effort to avoid it. They say, “there is no traffic on the extra mile.”
@@vehcorI wish I could love this comment 100 times!
Scott, by far the best channel on youtube. I am amazed at your knowledge and your patience to teach us.
I’ve been doing it for a long time, you gain a little knowledge through experience over the years.
I had a twisted rail on my truck, porta power and some swearing. Fixed it right up.
That is also an acceptable method of repair! 😂
😂 @@vehcor
Ford guy here. I'm a fan of the foxes, one of the cars in the daily driver rotation is a '92 5.0/AOD coupe, and I have a '93 Cobra that I bought new. The coupe is welded together very well, with all good body gaps, all original body panels, and no witness marks where anything had to be adjusted after the fact. The Cobra is another story entirely. I bought it new with 11 miles on it, drove it home, and after the shiny new car blindness faded, I went over it with a fine tooth eyeball and found that every single body panel except the right door was misaligned, in some cases badly.
I pulled out the tools and went to work, and was able to get everything pretty good except the hatch. The hatch lid was bolted down at the hinges too far rearward and adjusted too high at the latch, and when I returned it to the proper location, I saw why. Ford welded the 1/4 panels too far apart, so with the hatch centered, both 1/4s are a good 1/8" further out than the sides of the hatch - and when it is down where it needs to be, it strikes the jamb area on both sides and mars the paint. Wonderful. So I had to make a few compromises in the adjustment, and it looks decent but not perfect. I considered pulling the interior trim out, making some pull plates and pulling both 1/4s together with a comealong, but I didn't want to risk something going awry, or something happening to the factory paint, which is actually pretty nice. So it's like that to this day.
So what's the excuse? There isn't one, it's a factory f**kup of the first order. Why did they do that to this car, when I haven't seen this particular error on any other fox hatchbacks? Why mine? UAW, tooling dating back to the '70s, the jig went out of spec and they just let a few cars go anyway, who knows. These were cheap cars, built to a price and slapped together fast to meet demand. Apparently some shifts cared more than others.
If buyers keep buying, no reason to fix it. Tesla is still like that today.
I am Diesel Technician but enjoying your work, I never did body work before. I like to learn the techniques.
You're a good teacher. I'm fine with you answering questions via video, which actually reaches more people than a typed answer. 👍👍👍
That was interesting with learning the hard way that rails have to be straight up and down and how to fix one if it's twisted. That sure would throw thing out of wack if it was twisted. Pretty logical how you would fix a twisted rail.
It is something that once it burns you, you watch for it in the future. I only made that mistake once, unlike the touching hot parts which I seem to learn over and over.
Scott: I didn't ask, but thank you for explaining why a twisted frame rail is a big deal. I always heard that a bent frame is, well, a DOA vehicle.
For body on frame, yes, for the most part. Unibody is different.
You're a great teacher Scott. I always appreciate the learning.
Learn something new on EVERY video. Thanks Scott.
Glad to hear it!
I hope young wrench turners realize how much good info they can get from these videos. It used to be a real struggle to get any information about how to do many of these types of repairs. Lots of trial and errors and lots of butchered work.
I’ve started to do more work on my vehicles again. I’ve had a few cars along the way that I wish I’d have held onto because the internet provides access to parts and that was always the biggest problem. …. Really enjoy seeing how to fix things properly.
That was funny as you inserted Gretta in the picture. That "I'm 16" and I no everything mouth and snarled look.
Brilliant. I watch you in England and have to say I’m always impressed with your work ethic. Well done 👍
Ford engineer guy here again to defend the brand.... Yeah, I got nothin. :)
😂
30 years old and made by ford, rust and damage free is remarkable.
These are hard to find in this condition, especially around me.
I love watching this channel always learning something new
The Master is back! Best in the business. Well done Scott....Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge and Humor!!!
Thanks for the support!
Great video! People on the production line are taught to trust certain things and never how to measure and see for themselves.
It seems the entire world has been taught to never question anything, anymore!
Go ahead and use Fram that way the shells will be full ofWix when I need one
Great Video! I really admired how you took the time to explain how and why! Made all the difference in this video! Can't wait for the next one!
Amazing video as always! Thank you for your time 😊
Love the lessons, Scott. Thanks for sharing.
No problem!
great video. For stubborn exhaust bolts, I use Snap-On pipe wrench PW2.
I could not ask for a better explanation of a circumstance that I found to be a head scratcher. Great technique and a real fix. Thanks, Scott.
I like you explaining why you do what you do to make things fit right.
Best rebuild channel on TH-cam.... brilliant 👍👍
Thanks 👍
Awesome job. I learn from you every time i watch. Thank you.
Thanks for the support!
My favorite factory F-up from the 90's was the Hecho de Mexico Honda replacement core supports. Most of them were 8-10mm out of square. What a treat. Bottom measurements were correct and top was way off. And as you know the top had to be perfect or the friggin headlights would fit like sh!t.
Really good. One of your best explanation videos. 😁👍
Thanks!
Thank you Scott.
Whenever I've dealt with exhaust fasteners, I always liberally coat the new parts with high-temp anti-seize to improve my chances if there is a next time.
I don't know what is better, your work, or your humor? Keep up the great work.
Happy Friday Scott. Thanks for the training regarding the question you were asked about repairing a twisting. Nothing it seems is too tough for you to handle. I was blown away by the factories idea of good enough. You were right, must have been the last thing Friday or as my neighbor used to say the first thing on Monday. Your knowledge and experience allows you to take it all in stride, showing us we don’t have to get upset, just fix it. After all I know I’d rather have it take more time and cost more knowing it was fixed correctly and not just good enough. Have a super weekend! See you next Friday, or whenever the next episode drops.
Sadly, tolerances of every brand back then were similar. Things have certainly changed. Thanks for the support!
I was not expecting that "how dare you" in there. 10/10
Thanks Scott for such informative educational instructive helpful and friendly repairs for FORDS.
Great tutorial professor Scott! That is a good way to address good questions. I just wish I could have you fix my 87 hatchback, but i know you probably don't need another Furd to work on! 😂
You might want to rethink that. Mustangs only come to me to die and be dismembered! 😂
This channel is always very interesting ( and i follow a lot ) the tone and the personnality of this man are very funny ... well... thank you from France .
Happy Friday, Scott! Blessed us with two videos this week!👍🍻
Happy Friday! I really need to do some auction scammer ones, I have seen a bunch lately from our two favorite sellers.
@vehcor oh hell yeah, definitely!!! Those make good videos. I'm not gonna lie, but I would love to see you do a series on fixing an F150. I know it's a Ford, but I own one (2011), and I am kinda partial to them.🍻
I've found that if you replace the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe nuts with brass/bronze ones it solves many problems down the road.
Thanks for the instruction scott it’s always nice to be educated by someone who knows what they are doing and has had to overcome problems they have faced, great post again scott, ps I was searching for the haters comments but could only find well done ones , perhaps I should have scrolled down more but I got bored searching so you’ll have to do more searching than me scott
Ford is not the only manufacturer that had assembly line goofs during that era. I was a lot boy for a GM dealer around 1984-1985 and was helping the body shop install a windshield for some large Oldsmobuick (think Delta 88 or LeSabre) that the customer had been complaining about a water leak on the passenger side. Turns out the passenger A-pillar was about an inch back from the driver's side on the top corner. We discovered this by laying the windshield in place without any adhesive. The windshield was sat flush everywhere but the top right corner where you could easily insert your fingers and not touch metal or glass. Body shop guy pulled the windshield and reinstalled it with the adhesive then filled the gap with more adhesive and prayed it would not leak anymore.
However, Ford fans are the only ones that refuse to accept that their brand is just as flawed as all the others so it makes it more fun to pick on them. 😂
I believe the expression you're looking for as my old boss used to say ...it doesn't have to float
What if I was rebuilding a Hellcat challenger? 😂
Excellent straightforward explanation Scott, keep it up!
Will do!
Knowledge is great but there is no substitute for experience and wisdom along with
Agreed!
Looks good! I’ve see so many hacks. You did it right!
I spy with my little eye..... a red Buick Reatta. Is that the next project in the queue?
NO! 🤮
I’m at an expert at not being a mechanic yet I still watch your videos.
Thanks, you don’t have to use information everyday to want to learn it.
I love your explanations and your work/technique.
So much skill and attention to detail. Someone's going to get a lovely car.
I have done a few of those front corners on fords and they are always off a little. No two are the same. Gotta be a Friday evening shift build.
yea! it's cool! Thank you for remined me of the old day's of straightening frames and all that comes with it. Good work and humor!
Scott outstanding progress on the Mustang! Also great solution to the Ford defect! I am looking forward to the next video!
Never gets old. you're a bad ass my friend
thanks for spending the time to explain
This might be your best yet! I can't wait to see it finished.
This is such the best video you've authored yet!!!!
One machinist I knew would take the next size bigger nut and weld it to the broken stud thru the inside of the nut. Can be effective even if the stud is broke off flush.
That was plan B.
Foxbody mustangs are my favorite cars (coupe variety). Part of why I love them is for that reason, they are not at all perfect.
It’s fun to work on stuff that you don’t have to be a perfectionist and still end up with a good product.
Thanks for the video Scott.
This winter would be an awesome time to showcase the typhoon. Maintenance segment or just show it off.
Never seen a fox front end tear down in that much detail. I have a 93 5.0 Hatchback LX. It was hit at the driver side front quarter panel before I owned it. It was "fixed", but the radiator support never straighten out completely on the top. Still has a buckle in it that has always driven me nuts. I've had the car for over fifteen years now. It drives fine , the car and panels look straight. But the idea that the frame rail might not be completely square also bothers me quite a bit. I just don't know for sure. I wish I could have someone like you look at it. Also can a hit like that cause the front window sill to buckle a little bit and cause a leak?
Thanks!!!
Ulises G.
I bet the 'Experts' do not know that when Japanese cars are off loaded at Seattle that there is a Body and Paint Shop on the Pier to fix the cars damaged in shipment from Japan! .....(and yes the Body and Paint Shop is signatory to a Fair Labor Agreement as well!)
2:26 I've had to straighten floor joists and studs the same way. What I've done is put a huge C clamp pointing upwards and pull on that so it rotates the whole thing. The trick with framing is: get one of your buddies to nail it in place while you're yanking on it, :-) Once you get all the blocking and flooring in place, it holds fine and is actually more rigid since it's under tension.
I could see putting the clamp so it sticks out to the left and then pulling it down.
It's all about angles and leverage.
That front core support/apron was definitely a "just send it out and let them fix it later" UAW job.
no, never not a union job. we all know union jobs are done to the highest standards, completed on time , under or at budget. mustve been a sub contracted non union hack assembly line that built this one
@@harveylong5878 sounds like your a little bitter.
You should be using a belt sander on those manifold bolts
or maybe a different hammer! 🤣
My mate who worked for Leyland Australia told me a story from his colleague who worked for Ford Australia when they moved from building English Escorts to Ford Lasers (Mazda 323s) in 1979-80. They were concerned that there were no adjustments for the bonnet (hood) fitting. The Japanese engineers helping them set up production said they didn’t need any. Designed to be built by robots, there was no way an Aussie human could stuff it up. Warranty claims for body issues dropped to almost zero.
What would be interesting to know is what exactly the factory considered to be an allowable variance between being centered properly and not centered properly!
If it still fits in the oval holes and the gaps are somewhat uniform, it’s good. The collision industry actually had stricter standards for repair than manufacturers had for the original product.
Nice work. Thanks for showing us what to do'
As much as you (we GM guys) would like to pick at Ford about quality control issues, we all know every car company ever, has these same issues.
Everyone knows that… except the Ford fans, that think their brand can do no wrong. That is what makes them so much fun to antagonize! 😂
Time 2300 It is either that 5.0 or the 3.8 V6 that has a steel mesh filter under the PCV valve. These would sludge up causing all blow by to end up in the air filter or other places where oil can leak out.
I’m working on my 1986 mustang gt with a passenger side frame damage. Can I use the same measurements on my car?
Great job buddy can’t wait to see it painted. Shout out to you from Mexico
Excellent explanation on the twist solution…. 5 millymeters? The metric system… look at the big brain on Brad.
I used to love getting the hood lights from Fords like this one has... the built in tilt switch is nice. But now they get removed before cars go to the boneyard. Too bad, I'd like to find one for my new-to-me 89 F150.
21:33 I always think: manifold studs, how much extra would it cost to use stainless bolts and nuts? So when I put headers on my truck (cheaper than stock manifolds) I ordered all stainless studs and nuts to go with them because they were stainless too. How much? $3.00. For 20 studs, nuts and washers. If I can buy em for $3.00 the car makers could buy them for $2.00.
You are correct but even $1.00 times 1,000,000 units produced ends up costing more than the bean counters will allow. Not to mention they only need the parts to last as long as the warranty, after that, (I know this will be hard for people to hear) Manufacturers don’t care what happens to their cars when it is the customers’ expense.
@@vehcor and the dealers would make less money on repairs.....2 units to change a Y pipe? WHY? "cuz the bolts rust tight"
Nowadays they do minimal testing on vehicles before putting them on the market. Let the customers be the test mules.....and pay for the privilege!!
I learned years ago that they came up with 3 yrs 60,000 kms as the warranty period as that was the avg time a vehicle would last before requiring repairs so that's how they build them now. Only prob? They aren't building them to even last that!
What was the worst replacement panel/parts you had or gotten but couldn't use?
I’m in IL so I get lots of rusted out parts that I have to send back to the yards. I’m not sure there is a “worst”one, unusable is unusable.
I did a '57 Mercury once where the factory assembly got messed up by two inches in the bracing behind the rear seat. So much so that they had to take a hammer and beat the L shaped brace flat on one end, then they put a couple more spot welds. On the same car, most of the rear inner quarter spot welds were not fused together well. Must have had a terrible rattle over all those years. Yeah, it was a convertible too. The whole body was kinda elastic.
Freakin awesome video.... Thanks for the tips and tricks you always seem to share.
Happy Friday best to you and yours.Thanks for sharing.
A lot of people say they don't build them like they used to. For that I say thank God. Build quality on older cars was not good, especially American cars
hasnt improved much either in 50+ years. factory installed rattles, loose bolts/missing bolts are common. UAW cries pay us more so we can continue doing sub standard work
I need to buy this convertible when it’s done. Hopefully I can afford it.
I look forward to Fridays at 3:00 to watch your channel . I think your taking the time to explain the front frame twisting was great ! I personally as a retired Volvo parts manager at 63 always enjoy learning your side of the body repair business . I Most enjoy your frame techniques from every angle . I appreciate the fact that you took the time to show a factory defect of a 30 year old car that was done at the Factory and the clear conseice of the difference from both sides helped my to understand . the measurements and the way you scribed the right inner structure before and the repair after were spot on ! Is the red Buick two door with nautical front plate your personal car ?
Great work on the repairs. That being said, I'll keep all of my Fords before I lower myself to any GM product. :P
If you are rebuilding this for the afternoon crew she is going to love the car knowing her dad fixed shoddy factory work while repairing old damage and who knows she might soup up the 5.0 with a supercharger
You cann use 2-3 colors of raffle cam paint to give positioning whiteness marks instead of scriibing
Paint gets scraped up and covered with weld through primer. Nothing beats the scribe marks.
Awesome job, better than new.
They didn’t set the bar too high! 😂
Can you reuse the airbag sensors? Thanks
The ones that are not smashed or bad, yes.
Cool Thanks very much
I think that's a great idea. One Q&A to start a video.
It was a very good question, I’ll keep it up if I get more like it!
Thanks again Scott for another awesome video.
Great video enjoy watching keep up the great work
15:12 Your prop rod is in the prop storage room next to the fake noses and rubber guns.
I wonder how often the factory puts something together incorrectly and how often someone notices it. Having all the factory measurements sure helps.
a friend of mine works stamping and welding parts for volkswagen, audi and lamborghini. and its still a very real issue despite all the automation and quality controls.
especially with how cars are built now, one bend on one piece is a little bit off and it quickly affects the rest of the assembly. but its still accounted for and there's just enough room for adjustment
On these, close was always good enough. There is so much adjustment you can usually get it straight but sometimes they got so careless it was out of the range or adjustment and you ended up with poor fitment.
Thanks for sharing
Excellent work it looks great. Good catch on the Ford boo boo. Enjoying watching this project.
Thanks for the excellent start of the weekend ::D
No problem!