Alternator Basics, Tips Tricks, 1 wire, Models of GM, FORD, MOPAR from 1960 1980s Autorestomod Episo
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Alternator Basics, Tips Tricks, 1 wire, Models of GM, FORD, MOPAR from 1960-1980s Autorestomod Episode 387
We look at the basics of testing and alternator. We also look at all the types of early Ford, GM and Mopar alternators. We look at tips and tricks for making your alternator function better. We talk about 1 wire alternators. We see what makes a DN10 GM alternator., a SI alternators and a CS alternator. We discuss Ford 1G, 2G, 3G, alternators. We look at Round back, Square back and compact alternators.
www.autorestomo... / autorestomod
Thanks for watching!
Jeff Ford Contact:
Jford@autorestomod.com
Links:
www.paperforman...
www.allpar.com...
I just did a front disc break conversion on my 1970 Ford F-100. I am hoping to shed some light because I've heard you guys talking about doing it. I basically went to a junkyard and pulled both ''I'' beams out of a 1973 Ford F-100 I pulled the whole assembly out and it was all together, calipers, rotors, spindles, everything. I took it back home, cleaned it, painted it, replaced the bushings with new ones "while Im here". Also new rotors and calipers were purchased from a local auto parts store. The "I" beams sat correctly with the front coil springs and bolted up to the radius arms. The only thing you have to go out and get is a new tie rod assembly because the length of the threads on the tie rod where it goes into the spindle is a different length than a stock one from 1970. So I got a complete tie rod assembly from a 1973 Ford F-100, that bolted right up and now the brake conversion is complete. The other components required were new brake lines and a new proportioning valve.
Nice work colleagues, bravo 👏
Excellent information. Thank you
I remember sweet-talking the parts counter girl into ordering me the "police-only" model GM alternators back in the day. Haha. Anything for 100 amps.
Lol.
That is sad that some people are so miserable that they have to talk junk to people that are doing bigger and better than they are. Keep up the good work guys
It’s like you guys are reading my search history because you keep doing videos on exactly the things I needed to know LAST week. Long story short, I couldn’t use the Ford alternator I’d bought for my Ford product and had to buy a 12si GM-style alternator instead because that’s what VintageAir built the bracket for. And through internet research, I learned one important thing about wiring it up- if the car had a generator on it before, make sure there’s a diode in the wire from the charging warning light to the #1 (field) terminal of the SI alternator...or else you may not be able to shut the engine off. That would be an unpleasant, though probably (later) hilarious surprise.
Hmmm wait a week? You might be right on time. LOL. Yeah, those are some steep curves. I often wonder how deep to go on these videos.
Real Mopar Mutts still like you guys!! (And, they are envious of the easy pulley change. Mopars are press fitted. )
Thanks! We are working with Rooster's Rod Shop on the idea of doing more Mopar stuff. It is coming!
You look like the red head kid on Mr Incredible! Great video,
early CS130 GM alternators were v belt with a smaller front bearing and slightly lower output than the later unit serpintine unit . Better than the earlier SI versions but still limited amperage because of heat generated at high output . 100-120amp should be considered max output even thou many aftermarkets are higher . I have also read V belt capacity /life span is alot shorter on amperage ABOVE 100a .
Alternator with a baffle fan OEM AC delco 12SI always flows more air than standard . Can be retrofitted if u donot have one .
The alloy aftermarket decorative fans cause overheated alternators .
Also. I'm getting ready to start the AA harness on my 69.... But I'll keep going on the suspension now that you guys are doing it. I'll watch the "tutorial"😉 y'all put out before I start. When is she dropping?
Soon, we're waiting on parts.
Hey, I have 12V, 60A alternator. Does anybody know how many rpm-s does it need to work properly?
Usually start up is 800-1,000, after that it will charge.
"Pretty" is not the only reason to change to a 1-wire - case size was the primary factor for me. A 3G simply wouldn't fit between the block/head and bracket on my car (64 Fairlane with a 429).
I also have additional power requirements. Tuff Stuff makes an appropriate 1-wire alt (#7068k) that is 150-amp, and you can't get an alternator in an OEM case that provides that kind of power. Mine makes 14.5 volts all day long without having to rev the engine to get it to start charging (btw, I use a 4-gauge cable for the positive side).
great advice.....but a question!.....
what about the size of the car?
do you need a bigger one if you have a boat? (57-64 I.e Fairlanes, Fleetwoods,300s, LTDs)
with all those fact. options.....
..wouldn't you need a bigger one!
Nope. All about the amp load. size does matter (according to some) but in this case it is only where the charging system is concerned.
I don't have much but I can do what I can
OK.
do you have a 2 wire alternator video? i keep runnin into 1 and 3 wire videos . like they all say put the #2 wire with the wire tht goes to ur battery from back of alternator . buut why not just plug it in the connector to side of the alt? you got 2 wire vid ? need yo help
The GM altermators can have two wires one is an exciter wire for the amp gauge.
@@AutoRestoMod can you do video on free time ? tht be cooool im workin on 86 camaro ...il tell everyone not to buy one cause its a paaaaain in butt
I have a 1977 Ford Ranchero GT and I have zero experience dealing with cars
Contact me via email at: jford@autorestomod.com
Is "concurs" a cuss word? ahahahahahaha I'm so funny
I did cuss quite a bit when doing the '72 Mach 1 years ago...haven't build a concours car since...Yes. You are funny.
I rather use my GP9150 alternator in my Yanmar engine, with 20 Amp.
Ok!
Delta and Y windings, you lost 99 percent of everyone except myself.
Ok glad you are here still.
😴😴😴😴
See, we even help with insomnia!
It's sad how rude some people are with the comments they post. I love your videos and have helped me a ton. The more you post, the more I watch and learn!
if some jerk brain cusses you all send them a private video link of a puppy whimpering ;}
"I will delete your comment" hih? Do we have a Biden sensorship fan here? Sure sounds like it by that comment.
Perhaps if you had been more specific on HOW to hook up the alternator (for visual learners) rather than point to the wiring diagram (didactic learners)? Just a thought.
One wire gm show to use 2 jumper wires on voltage regulator but I've watch numerous videos and no addresses that on ford regul
Thanks for making the video! I have a quick question for you, i have a PowerMaster Alternator 58302. It's a 220 amp 14.8 volt power alternator 2 pin style - L/F. I had it originally hooked up as a one wire alternator because that's what it said in the add when i bought it but have since found out it's a OE style unit. I've only gotten 13.4-13.8volts. How do i make this thing work?? It's a super expensive alternator and brand new. Do i need to change the regulator out? It's going from 13.8, 11, 9, 0, than back to 13.8 on the voltmeter then on repeat every few seconds, I have no ECU. Any info would be super helpful, thank you!!
Nathan, email me and I can help you with this via that avenue. jford@autorestomod.com
Come on now guys, don't make it sound hard to "source" an alternator. I found a great company. New alt' GM- American made. Beats auto parts stores for prices and quality. I'm going from a 60 amp external reg'd to" DB electrical" one wire 105 amp for just under $53.00. Free shipping too. Good vid.
Not hard, sitting in your Barca-Lounger drinking a cold one. On the road the one wire can be problematic. That's all. The point:
Counter person: Hi, welcome to HighHoe AutoParts. How can I help you?"
Me, sweating, cussing under my breath: I need an alternator.
Counter person: Year Make and Model?
Me: It's a one wire.
Counter person: I...don't find that alternator name....I'm not feeling comfortable right now, can we go back to Year, Make and Model?
Me: Yes, Yes we can. 1972 F100 360 2V (that is really a 390 4V from a Thunderbird)
Counter person: Is this your alternator? Points to a picture of a Ford 1G in all it's rebuilt Cardone glory)
Me: Walks out, large floofy tufts of curly gray hair gently floating on the breeze.
😁😁😁
What is the name or website ?
The BIGGEST reason to use a 1-wire alternator is to get rid of wiring. Most think that is all about looks only. It's not. It is also about not losing power through long lengths of wire and wire not getting hacked up by age, heat or rodents. The shorter the wire, the better the signal to charge. Also, you can turn most normal alternators into a 1-wire set up, but this normally means wiring the regulator right to the alternator. It is better, but I like the regulator inside the case and I HATE computer activated alternators.... Chasing and repairing those issues can be MURDER!!!
Back in the late 80.s eary ninetys put a chevy alternator on my 81 ford truck never did hook up the wire to excite it just hit the gas real fast it starts charging and its still that way
That's one way to do it
Jeff, sorry to hear that people would use curse words. I love all of your very informative and at times funny videos. I have a 72' F-250 Camper Special, would a 60 or 70 amp standard 3 wire be fine??
I'd contact PA www.paperformance.com/ and chat with them. They are very knowledgeable. We just like them, not getting anything for the mention.
Thanks for the info. Now I understand why my Mav only shows 12 volts at idle and 14.5 above 1000 rpm. I put a set of march performance pulleys on the car and I bet I have the wrong size pulley on the alternator.
Yup! You have the wrong size pulley(s). I bought an engine that had the March setup and the lights always dimmed when braking or turn signal. Swapped out the alternator pretty piece for a smaller one. Next move would be to replace brake lights with LEDs...
I just completed a 3G swap on my 66 wagon. There's no external fan. So far, so good. Very easy to do and if you have a good pick a part near by, it really is inexpensive to do. I bought a rebuilt from PEP Boys and the wiring harness, 6g cables and fuse holder online.
Yeah, some do and some don't have the fan. The ones that PA Performance sells have the fan.
Jeff and Cam. Good video. I got a real charge out of it.
Thanks! We were pretty amped for the whole thing. =)
THE REASON I JUST SWITCHED TO THE
ONE WIRE.....WAS TO ELINATE ALL MY WIRE
PROBLEMS AND MY
CONNECTORS THAT
WHERE NOT TRANSFERING
ELECTRICITY WELL......
DOING SO.....MADE A DRAMATIC IMPROVMENT
IN STARTING....AND BATTERY CHARGEING.....
ITS A WHOLE DIFFERENT
CAR......FAR MORE RELIABLE.......
Good point.
I love your show!!
You guys are awesome thank you more videos where can I get a diagram how to connect the alternator to a regulator and horn rely
We would look on line for them. Be advised that some of the sites (.de and others) are going to want money to get to the diagrams. The .coms are usually free.
Thanks for the info, guys, I've got a 100 Amp Powermaster alternator that's similar to the industrial or tractor version that you show. It's in my 67 Mustang with the 302 engine and it's driven with a V-belt to the original pulley. It's able to be hooked up as a three wire or as a one wire. The one wire option is how I have it hooked up and I have to rev the engine to approx. 1200 RPM to excite the charging system. This function is per Powermaster's instructions for the one wire hook up. I have a volt meter wired in to the dash that replaces the original AMP meter. It seems to work well for my needs, but you MUST remember to excite the system upon start up. This may be a PITA for some folks. I thought that I'd add this info to the discussion. Thanks again for all that you do.
I bought a Powemaster for my 1980 Bronco (it still had the 1G external regulator, the little square box with the 4 wires)... how do I wire up my existing dash voltmeter?
Just buy an external voltmeter. Easy
Imagine taking time out of your day just to delete comments you don't like. Happy gay people month
I'll let the comments speak for themselves
@@AutoRestoMod Happy gay people month and Juneteenth 🤙
Love your videos!! Hard to believe someone would curse you guys.. I have a 66 mustang.. I've watched countless episodes and will continue to do so.. thank u guys !
We appreciate your kind words.
I have a 1978 ranchero square have with my al
i have an idea.. In one vid do a threefer .. set it up like a motor swap. do the wiring for Ignition (duraspark) starting (w fender solenoid ) and charging ( w external reg) I just found myself taking a 302 out of a 69 merc montego .. groping in an engine that was in a 1981 f100 labeled as a 5.0 302 , but wound up being a D4 casting 1974 0r 75 351W .. yay fun times.. oil pan swap .. dipstick tube made me pull the engine back out.. hahah .. ugh.. now to find that homed power wire for the coil and make a harness for the duraspark .. and of course i didn't save the ign moduel out of the truck..
Not a bad idea to hit the swap/no swap parts. Usually any 302 from a passenger car will swap. Trucks...not so much. I'll discuss it with Cam. Nice idea!
also sent you an email about a mopar via your website
I've got a 93 Chevy cavalier race car alternator is good not charging how do eye hook it to my battery ???
The cable that says "battery" should go either directly to the battery with a fusable link installed for max amperage. If I am reading you correctly.
Thank you for the information. I HAVE A question. what does my voltage regulator read on gage 16 after replacing it with a new regulator on a 1966 Impala
Ive never seen a factory 3g with an external fan, mod motors ran 3g alts, some, if you change the front half of the case then you ran them on " normal " v8s.
Yep we misspoke on that bit of info.
Great Video guys. Could you do a vid on safe ways to charge a battery with a battery charger - is it safe to use while the battery is connected to the car system or is it better to disconnect and charge out of vehicle ?
Where can that specific industrial application alternator be had? year specifications? please and thank you
Check with Tuff Stuff www.tuffstuffperformance.com/
Buy the way,you can take a carpenters pencil ✏ and rub it over the bolt shaft to stop it from sticking to the alt shaft hole.lead is slick and won't stick.just saying.
Good tip!
good video a lot of good info
You mentioned ‘Auto Wire’ wiring harnesses, “WARNING “ My friend is restoring (to stock) a 69 GMC , he discovered his $600+ plug and play Autowire harness is not exactly direct/ plug and play . He had go to a 1 wire alternator, then he discovered the harness is not compatible with his new $700 vintage replace dashboard which comes with an amp meter as per original. When he call Auto Wire they actually got a little snotty with him and told he need to switch to a voltmeter. After checking around it looks like he will be hanging one under his dash. 🤮Not sure if ‘Painless’ harness is any better.
That can be an issue. There are a few videos on coverting the AMP to volt gauge using square body parts. I actually prefer a volt gauge.
Love your videos do you have a video of conversion generator to an alternator
We do not yet. But we have one coming on the 64 Falcon hardtop.
Hay Cam, how many eggs are in a 1/2 dozen LOL
Six less than 12...
@@AutoRestoMod Good answer
I got a 72' Polaris you can have for FREE... Been sitting 30 years down at our shop in Tome, NM! but you need to pay for shipping from Albuquerque NM to Aiken :)
Shipping might just break us. But on the other hand...
Thank you for explaining one wire alternators…I never knew that😀
Wanta work on a 1964 comet?
We don't do customer work right now. But thanks for the vote of confidence!
A nice solution to many Ford charging issues is to use a GM CS style alternator. They charge better, have a clean 3-wire charging setup with the internal regulation and put out much more amperage than Ford G2s. They also lend themselves to a one-wire setup if that's what is wanted. The only modification needed is to drill out the mounting bolt hole to 1/2" from the GM's 7/16". Is this blasphemy? I did this to my 65 Mustang because of all the stuff I've added. Works very well.
Nope. No blasphemy. We welcome all solutions!
Great fucking video!
I don't remember shooting porn that day but my memory is getting a little spotty....
i have a 1949 plymouth i just brought someone put an alternator on it what yr alternator can i use the last owner only knew it was a GM if you can help
Is it a one wire or standard GM? I'd honestly need to see the alternator. Send me a picture at: jford@autorestomod.com
Only wires are under the negative and positive for some reason it's not allowing me to send a picture
I live in banning California
Ok.
Maybe a camera thing.... Is the case crack around the big mounting ear on the new Ford one?
It is a camera thing.
Thank you for your videos!!!
Glad you like them!
Can you help
Maybe!
Bolt seize from galvanizing by different metals?
A real possiblility.
Thanx
Hate to say it. But I like the Aerostar. Ugly (no one will steel it), decent mileage for it's size, slow (no speeding tickets) and it wore like iron.
Did not answer any basic common sense questions !!!!
Enlighten us...
I went from a 10dn to a cs144 and man it was a huge upgrade
Not at that point but we are now.
yea i had to quit watching for fear of getting hit by a hand
I guess you walk away from conversations with Italians too...
You guys are amazing keep at it
28:52 I'll never get back ....
Thanks for the input.