Wow this video was really good. I'm going to replace the analogs on mine this weekend and was looking for some nice tutorials. Yours is the best by far, very nice!
The right stick on my 360 Controller is starting to not only drift, but it won't fully register being pushed to the left, while my Series X controller has a non functional LB. Glad to see it's possible to replace the thumbstick! (hopefully I can find a way to replace LB, as I don't believe my Series X controller is under warranty anymore.)
If you having problem with joystick, you can spray the joystick with Video Contact Cleaner. I had tried,It work. If still problem, you may to replace it with soldiering as this video.
I've got 5 controllers that need stick replacements and all of them have a problem with the left thumbstick where they drift by but a touch even though the sticks look centre...I need to find a repair shop to do it for me as I have the parts but don't want to mess up the boards.
nice one. I will give it a go. Typical planned obsolescence when it should be a push fit or easy modular board replacement. I can solder and desolder but I dont enjoy working with tips flux and molten metal
Nice video thanks. Shame they didnt develop a push fit as I hate soldering.. Its a known issue especially on the left stick. I keep barely used pads as backups but many pads start developing this problem because I dont think the joysticks are built solidly enough to handle click running etc
Hey gadgetfix! I just got an xbox 360 controller however both analog do not respond. Every other buttons are responding! Traces are all good! I wonder what could affect both analog and i cleaned the potentiometer with ipa.
Awesome Chris. My 360 controller is showing a similar problem: the range of the left thumb stick on the left diagonal is limited. When I take the controller apart and there's enough room to move the stick further I can see that the range is there, but in the normal configuration (with the housing on) the pot just doesn't get enough range to register the full range.
Man, I want to teach myself how to do this, but I can't find a site that sells reliable Analog sensor parts. They've all got bad reviews, so I feel like learning how to do this won't even help because I'd likely just end up with bad sensors anyway..
Great stuff! Any chance you do amplifier repair? I've got a couple of NAD that need repair. Does anyone have a supplier? I'm looking for the plastic thumbstick cover for my Microsoft 360 wireless controller. I didn't know it was analogue till I saw this.
I need to know what's the better type analog sticks to use some have a dead zone and others have a no sensitive touch barely push and its hyper mode of spinning
Thanks for the video. Could you confirm if your replacement has the full 100% range of movement with a game that can utilize it (eg. walk at different speeds and no massive deadzone)? How well has the joystick held up after several years? Does it wiggle/drift? If your replacement feels close to or the same as the originals, where did you buy them from?
Great. I was somewhat worried that some purchasable modules had massive deadzones given several critical reviews. My 360 controller is showing its age with wiggly sticks that cause drifting in games. It tells me that there's nothing wrong with the potentiometers, which are still sensing the range of motion just fine, and it's just mechanical wear and tear. I think I'll buy some some modules and disassemble the old ones and see just what causes the sticks to become loose.
Update: - Potentiometers from most suppliers of these replacement joysticks function incorrectly when installed in a 360 controller. They have deadzones and a weird sensor ramp that causes jerky movement in games. - I tested three different joysticks and potentiometers, one from the original controller, one from Sparkfun, and one from a Chinese supplier on eBay. The non-originals function mechanically the same way as the original and have smooth spring loaded centering, but their potentiometers are bugged for this application. - After testing, I found that replacing the Chinese joystick's potentiometers with the originals works perfectly and the joystick feels like new. However, the original potentiometers do not fit correctly on the Sparkfun joystick because the metal "axle tongue" which inserts into the potentiometer's plastic wheel is slightly larger, causing a spring to form which pushes the potentiometer and it's casing off the joystick's metal case. The plastic clips may or may not be enough to hold the potentiometer flush against the metal case depending on sizing and wear. If you soldered this on, I would not be surprised if the axle pushed the potentiometer away from the metal case, causing the stick to not function correctly and or causing it to "stick" to extreme positions due to increased friction.
@@Sogi020 Thanks for posting this dude. I just finished soldering some chinese looking knock off sticks on and the deadzone and calibration is way, way off. I can't believe by how much. I'll open the controller backup tomorrow morning and figure out how to remove the old pots so I can fit them. Again, thank you.
@@WuYakumo Just chiming to agree with all this. All the "OEM" replacement sticks are terrible knock offs. The real oem sticks were a special deal with microsoft and sony, they didn't sell them nearly anybody else, so finding real replacements is next to impossible. Also, the original sticks are a little different from one to the next, so the controller chip is uniquely calibrated to each stickbox. So if you do replace them, you need to measure the resistance of each side of the old potentiometers and find a matching replacement so the calibration adds up. If you're looking for a good replacement stick, there is one. Its called FJP10k, made by a group called PolyShine Favor Union. They make the analog boxes for some of the new PS4 and PS5 controllers, so they're not that bad. They are distinguished from other by their bright orange potentiometers.
I am having the strangest left stick drift issue. it drifts up like crazy in Tenchu z and barely dose it in Diablo 3 and not at all in other games. It doesn't seam to affect gameplay just the games menus.
It probably depends on how sensitive the games are set up. If they have a generous dead zone coded in, there's no problem. If they don't, you'll experience all sorts of stick drift.
@@GadgetUK164 Thanks for the reply. I have tried this shortly after asking the question. The shapes and pins are similar, but the X360's one is around 15% bigger than the one on DS4. So it's not possible to fit it onto DS4's board. Just thought of sharing this knowledge I've just learned. :)
I need help! Did somebody has this problem? A few hours ago, I replaced both analog sticks for my Xbox 360 controller and happened something curious, it happens on Destiny, Battlefield 3 and Alan Wake (it doesn't happen in any other games, I tried a few more like DS1&2, tomb raider/rise of the tomb raider, metro last light, RE1&4 and many others) the thing is, my character doest want to lower his arms, it keeps aiming down the sights (left trigger aim, right trigger shoot) and whenever I swap the triggers (left trigger shoot, right trigger aim) it works perfectly without any issues at all.. also, Alan Wake doesn't want to run, keeping pressed the LB causes him to sprint a few meters and stop running. Can somebody help me?
I've got a pad where one of the thumbsticks was almost not working at all. I opened it up, gave the board a bit of a clean with IPA, now the thing won't turn on. I swapped out the thumbstick as I had a spare, and it looks like the pads are a bit disintegrated. Does anyone know if that would explain it not powering up?
@@GadgetUK164 Thanks for the reply. I've since noticed that it draws a variable amount of current when hooked up to my bench supply, where a working one draws nothing until power on. Does that indicate anything like a bad IC or a short somewhere perhaps? Cheers
Hi i have problem, I replaced my left analog with left analog of "Speedlink Xeox Gamepad" and it works perfectly! Better than original. But the problem is that my left trigger not working now, it keeps pushed down (like i hold it). Btw i have problems with soldering these 3 points, like they don't accept solder good. Should I try other solder?
Add some flux to the solder points first, and use solder containing flux and lead (60/40). That trigger that is stuck down - maybe just take the controller to pieces to check and make sure something is not trapped, or clean the trigger contacts etc?
I think that i fucked up board, because when i assemble controller without trigger, it works the same (it is pushed down always). Can I upload image and you can tell me is this board fucked up and corrupt?
Those 3 pads next to C5 look to have come off the board =/ What you can possibly do is use small kynar wires to link whatever goes into those 3 holes to the little vias to the right of where the pads are missing. You would need some flux to do that easily, and might have to lightly scratch the surface of those vias to expose them if you cannot easily solder onto them. Also check the other side of the board to see if the pads are damaged on the other side (if there are any).
I've added 3 white lines onto the image (zoom in to see them) - if you add wires there, it will probably work again. ie. Put the trigger back in the 3 holes, then use very fine kynar wire (available on eBay), and solder 3 wires. The bottom one, just scratch the solder mask off to solder that wire onto an area around where the pad is missing, as it looks to connect to all of the ground area around it. The top 2 each go to a via. www.dropbox.com/s/wyarddanrbnm7sb/fr_645.jpg?dl=0
Much more often its that micro resistor switches hidden inside green covers on the 2 sides of the analog stick. It can break after few month already, and thats exactly what happen to my controller. Its enough to replace this micro resistor, no solering is required, just a gentle push to open green covers. Works like a charm. See here th-cam.com/video/_LePBsn3vkA/w-d-xo.html
I used a 15w iron at the time, but I struggled with the connections using a 15w iron. A 30w iron maybe better. Ideally used a temperature adjustable soldering iron too.
@@GadgetUK164 Made some mistakes here, used some 60w pencil solder iron from china, but already bought a better one. Now it is a 25w hikari. Thanks anyway!
Hi. I have a question: are all the sticks made the same? Have a broken controller whose right is perfect but left is awful and a perfectly working controller whose left stick is drifting a lot. Can I desolder the working right stick from faulty controller and solder it to the working one to replace faulty left stick? Hence the question if the parts are same in shape and form and if they can fit regardless of what side of controller they get soldered to. Hope you know what I mean. Thanks in advance!
There are probably several (at least) variations of the controllers (same for PS4).. But, you may find the sticks are the same. The only way to tell is to tear them both down and compare them.
I did a analog replacement but now it just circles I don't understand can u please help me where I've gone wrong the analog I replaced was brand new but still happens
It's called a desoldering station:- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140W-Desoldering-Station-Iron-Gun-230V-Vacuum-Professional-Removal-ESD/142898440603?epid=27015193320&hash=item214569299b:g:xEsAAOSwwCxbCw~X Or you could by a temperature controlled soldering iron, and get a cheap desolder pump.
I just did this repair on both of my thumb sticks, and now my controller is stuck in a weird state. Whenever I go to turn it on, it blinks twice, and then stops working. My Xbox is rendering it as turned on, and has a little player one on the Xbox for a second, but then it goes away instantly. Anyone having a similar problem, and any recommendations on how to fix it?
Double check the work you have done and inspect the board super closely to make sure there are no solder particals that have landed in the wrong place bridging connections. It could be that one of the sticks fitted has a fault, or if you didn't wear an ESD wrist strap there's a chance something could have failed due to ESD.
Anyone know where I can get a new DVD drive for my Xbox 360? I can get gaps in sound while watching DVDs (they don't skip, I just lose bits of sound that return after I rewind to rewatch). Also, my original Xbox needs a new DVD drive...
+adultmoshifan87 You are better off trying to source a replacement laser. In order to replace the drive I believe you would need to extract the 'key' from the drive, update the firmware of the new drive to contain that 'key' in order that the system will accept it. I could be talking crap, it's a while since I looked at hacking the 360 but I believe the DVD drives were signed and referenced in the main nand flash.
I doubt it, but they might fit - I cannot remember what the PS2 sticks look like internally. You can pick up new sticks or caps from eBay pretty cheap.
I use 'Chip Quik' branded flux - It works really well, especially for any SMD work. eg. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHIP-QUIK-SMD291ST2CC6-NO-CLEAN-FLUX-6-X-2CC-/131596496699?hash=item1ea3c32f3b:g:VH8AAOSwd0BVyf3F
I did this and now my controller won't turn on when I click it the 2nd light blinks like a fraction of a second I was rushing but you think you could tell me what happened please
Maybe you damaged one of the wires or traces? Perhaps some solder in the wrong place or something? It's probably worth taking it to pieces again, and inspect the board with a magifying glass closely.
Sounds like something has shorted somewhere then. If you cannot clean fix the damaged PCB with kynar wire, or if there's a faulty chip, it might be easier to just keep it for parts and get a new controller.
GadgetUK164 thanks man I already scrapped it and got a new controller so sad I was just trying to fix my older one to put it in a red housing but hey whatever waste of money really
***** LOL! I wish I could!!! I need to get my house maintenance skills up to a similar level - The list of jobs I need to do around the house is huge at the moment - too much time on gaming stuff and not enough focus on doing what I need to do lol.
Ah, that's called solder! Solder is a metal alloy that has a low melting point. You use a soldering iron to melt the solder, and after a few seconds its cold and forms a solid conductive connection to whatever its connected to. See here:- th-cam.com/video/Qps9woUGkvI/w-d-xo.html And here:- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering
***** Yeah, the 360 controllers were pretty sturdy really. The last couple of generations have gone down hill progressively in terms of reliability. Just waiting for the RROD equivalent on the XB1...
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent guide 👍
Just changed the left stick on my controller no problem.
Wow this video was really good. I'm going to replace the analogs on mine this weekend and was looking for some nice tutorials. Yours is the best by far, very nice!
The right stick on my 360 Controller is starting to not only drift, but it won't fully register being pushed to the left, while my Series X controller has a non functional LB. Glad to see it's possible to replace the thumbstick! (hopefully I can find a way to replace LB, as I don't believe my Series X controller is under warranty anymore.)
If you having problem with joystick, you can spray the joystick with Video Contact Cleaner.
I had tried,It work.
If still problem, you may to replace it with soldiering as this video.
Concise and to the point! Great camera work too!
Glad it helped!
I've got 5 controllers that need stick replacements and all of them have a problem with the left thumbstick where they drift by but a touch even though the sticks look centre...I need to find a repair shop to do it for me as I have the parts but don't want to mess up the boards.
I'll take working on these over an Xbox One controller any day. Even just reassembling the thing is difficult until you've done it 15+ times.
Great video. Just used this to repair two of my controllers. Thanks!
nice one. I will give it a go. Typical planned obsolescence when it should be a push fit or easy modular board replacement. I can solder and desolder but I dont enjoy working with tips flux and molten metal
Plastic tools I find best to use for sensitive components. I order an assortment of them online for a wide variety of jobs.
Nice video thanks. Shame they didnt develop a push fit as I hate soldering.. Its a known issue especially on the left stick. I keep barely used pads as backups but many pads start developing this problem because I dont think the joysticks are built solidly enough to handle click running etc
Hey gadgetfix! I just got an xbox 360 controller however both analog do not respond. Every other buttons are responding! Traces are all good! I wonder what could affect both analog and i cleaned the potentiometer with ipa.
Awesome Chris. My 360 controller is showing a similar problem: the range of the left thumb stick on the left diagonal is limited. When I take the controller apart and there's enough room to move the stick further I can see that the range is there, but in the normal configuration (with the housing on) the pot just doesn't get enough range to register the full range.
Thanks! Sometimes that happens just due to lots of useage - or if it is dropped (I've done that).
I thought it was just a matter of bad quality pots. I bought mine used so it could have been dropped before. I've ordered some new analog controls.
It could be - there are some awefully cheap replacements out there! Let me know how you get on!
Will do.
Man, I want to teach myself how to do this, but I can't find a site that sells reliable Analog sensor parts. They've all got bad reviews, so I feel like learning how to do this won't even help because I'd likely just end up with bad sensors anyway..
To be honest I've never had problems buying cheap replacements - but some aren't great! Check the feedback from the sellers on eBay perhaps?
Can i use china brand to replace xbox 360 potentiometer? Or does the potentiometer are same? (Ps5,ps4,ps3)?
They will work, but some are not as good as others and they may not last as long as original ones!
Awesomely awesome and interesting as always!!!! ;)
***** Thanks =)
Great stuff! Any chance you do amplifier repair? I've got a couple of NAD that need repair.
Does anyone have a supplier? I'm looking for the plastic thumbstick cover for my Microsoft 360 wireless controller. I didn't know it was analogue till I saw this.
I cannot offer customer repairs sorry =(
I need to know what's the better type analog sticks to use some have a dead zone and others have a no sensitive touch barely push and its hyper mode of spinning
Great guide. Thank you.
Thanks for the video.
Could you confirm if your replacement has the full 100% range of movement with a game that can utilize it (eg. walk at different speeds and no massive deadzone)? How well has the joystick held up after several years? Does it wiggle/drift? If your replacement feels close to or the same as the originals, where did you buy them from?
I found no issues with drift and I have the full 100% range of movement. I just bought cheap ones from eBay.
Great. I was somewhat worried that some purchasable modules had massive deadzones given several critical reviews. My 360 controller is showing its age with wiggly sticks that cause drifting in games. It tells me that there's nothing wrong with the potentiometers, which are still sensing the range of motion just fine, and it's just mechanical wear and tear. I think I'll buy some some modules and disassemble the old ones and see just what causes the sticks to become loose.
Update:
- Potentiometers from most suppliers of these replacement joysticks function incorrectly when installed in a 360 controller. They have deadzones and a weird sensor ramp that causes jerky movement in games.
- I tested three different joysticks and potentiometers, one from the original controller, one from Sparkfun, and one from a Chinese supplier on eBay. The non-originals function mechanically the same way as the original and have smooth spring loaded centering, but their potentiometers are bugged for this application.
- After testing, I found that replacing the Chinese joystick's potentiometers with the originals works perfectly and the joystick feels like new. However, the original potentiometers do not fit correctly on the Sparkfun joystick because the metal "axle tongue" which inserts into the potentiometer's plastic wheel is slightly larger, causing a spring to form which pushes the potentiometer and it's casing off the joystick's metal case. The plastic clips may or may not be enough to hold the potentiometer flush against the metal case depending on sizing and wear. If you soldered this on, I would not be surprised if the axle pushed the potentiometer away from the metal case, causing the stick to not function correctly and or causing it to "stick" to extreme positions due to increased friction.
@@Sogi020 Thanks for posting this dude. I just finished soldering some chinese looking knock off sticks on and the deadzone and calibration is way, way off. I can't believe by how much. I'll open the controller backup tomorrow morning and figure out how to remove the old pots so I can fit them. Again, thank you.
@@WuYakumo Just chiming to agree with all this. All the "OEM" replacement sticks are terrible knock offs. The real oem sticks were a special deal with microsoft and sony, they didn't sell them nearly anybody else, so finding real replacements is next to impossible.
Also, the original sticks are a little different from one to the next, so the controller chip is uniquely calibrated to each stickbox. So if you do replace them, you need to measure the resistance of each side of the old potentiometers and find a matching replacement so the calibration adds up.
If you're looking for a good replacement stick, there is one. Its called FJP10k, made by a group called PolyShine Favor Union. They make the analog boxes for some of the new PS4 and PS5 controllers, so they're not that bad. They are distinguished from other by their bright orange potentiometers.
I have a problem with the sold. It doesnt melt when I put the solder on it
If the solder isn't melting, the soldering iron isn't powerful enough. Make sure you are using the correct solder too.
I am having the strangest left stick drift issue. it drifts up like crazy in Tenchu z and barely dose it in Diablo 3 and not at all in other games. It doesn't seam to affect gameplay just the games menus.
It probably depends on how sensitive the games are set up. If they have a generous dead zone coded in, there's no problem. If they don't, you'll experience all sorts of stick drift.
Can I use the original X360 analog part and put it into Sony Dualshock 4?
I honestly have no idea, they are very similar from what I understand, but the profile for the pins might be slightly different between them.
@@GadgetUK164 Thanks for the reply. I have tried this shortly after asking the question. The shapes and pins are similar, but the X360's one is around 15% bigger than the one on DS4. So it's not possible to fit it onto DS4's board. Just thought of sharing this knowledge I've just learned. :)
nice i was wondering if those green pots would work on the 360, sony uses them
I need help! Did somebody has this problem? A few hours ago, I replaced both analog sticks for my Xbox 360 controller and happened something curious, it happens on Destiny, Battlefield 3 and Alan Wake (it doesn't happen in any other games, I tried a few more like DS1&2, tomb raider/rise of the tomb raider, metro last light, RE1&4 and many others) the thing is, my character doest want to lower his arms, it keeps aiming down the sights (left trigger aim, right trigger shoot) and whenever I swap the triggers (left trigger shoot, right trigger aim) it works perfectly without any issues at all.. also, Alan Wake doesn't want to run, keeping pressed the LB causes him to sprint a few meters and stop running.
Can somebody help me?
I've got a pad where one of the thumbsticks was almost not working at all. I opened it up, gave the board a bit of a clean with IPA, now the thing won't turn on. I swapped out the thumbstick as I had a spare, and it looks like the pads are a bit disintegrated. Does anyone know if that would explain it not powering up?
No, it should power up - perhaps a cable is damaged or disconnected (between the boards). Or perhaps the power connector is damaged.
@@GadgetUK164 Thanks for the reply. I've since noticed that it draws a variable amount of current when hooked up to my bench supply, where a working one draws nothing until power on. Does that indicate anything like a bad IC or a short somewhere perhaps? Cheers
Hi i have problem, I replaced my left analog with left analog of "Speedlink Xeox Gamepad" and it works perfectly! Better than original. But the problem is that my left trigger not working now, it keeps pushed down (like i hold it). Btw i have problems with soldering these 3 points, like they don't accept solder good. Should I try other solder?
Add some flux to the solder points first, and use solder containing flux and lead (60/40). That trigger that is stuck down - maybe just take the controller to pieces to check and make sure something is not trapped, or clean the trigger contacts etc?
I think that i fucked up board, because when i assemble controller without trigger, it works the same (it is pushed down always). Can I upload image and you can tell me is this board fucked up and corrupt?
Look at these images, is this normal or not?
image.ibb.co/jmSb8Q/fr_643.jpg
image.ibb.co/cs5UTQ/fr_645.jpg
image.ibb.co/ijxb8Q/fr_642.jpg
Those 3 pads next to C5 look to have come off the board =/ What you can possibly do is use small kynar wires to link whatever goes into those 3 holes to the little vias to the right of where the pads are missing. You would need some flux to do that easily, and might have to lightly scratch the surface of those vias to expose them if you cannot easily solder onto them. Also check the other side of the board to see if the pads are damaged on the other side (if there are any).
I've added 3 white lines onto the image (zoom in to see them) - if you add wires there, it will probably work again. ie. Put the trigger back in the 3 holes, then use very fine kynar wire (available on eBay), and solder 3 wires. The bottom one, just scratch the solder mask off to solder that wire onto an area around where the pad is missing, as it looks to connect to all of the ground area around it. The top 2 each go to a via.
www.dropbox.com/s/wyarddanrbnm7sb/fr_645.jpg?dl=0
Much more often its that micro resistor switches hidden inside green covers on the 2 sides of the analog stick. It can break after few month already, and thats exactly what happen to my controller.
Its enough to replace this micro resistor, no solering is required, just a gentle push to open green covers. Works like a charm. See here th-cam.com/video/_LePBsn3vkA/w-d-xo.html
Wich wattage of the soldering iron did you use? 30w?
I used a 15w iron at the time, but I struggled with the connections using a 15w iron. A 30w iron maybe better. Ideally used a temperature adjustable soldering iron too.
@@GadgetUK164 Made some mistakes here, used some 60w pencil solder iron from china, but already bought a better one. Now it is a 25w hikari. Thanks anyway!
omg, i finnally found the perfect video
=D
The only hard part to replace in these controllers is the thumb sticks, and they're the only things that break easily lol
you say that, but I've had the shoulder buttons break on every single one of my controllers after a single fall. Had to replace 5 of the bastards now
Hi.
I have a question: are all the sticks made the same?
Have a broken controller whose right is perfect but left is awful and a perfectly working controller whose left stick is drifting a lot.
Can I desolder the working right stick from faulty controller and solder it to the working one to replace faulty left stick? Hence the question if the parts are same in shape and form and if they can fit regardless of what side of controller they get soldered to.
Hope you know what I mean.
Thanks in advance!
There are probably several (at least) variations of the controllers (same for PS4).. But, you may find the sticks are the same. The only way to tell is to tear them both down and compare them.
@@GadgetUK164 Ahh ok. Well, will fire up the ol solder and give it a try. Thanks!
Are the Sensors the same on Xbox One and Xbox 360, is that compatible?
they aren`t someone told me .. but thank you for the Video
I did a analog replacement but now it just circles I don't understand can u please help me where I've gone wrong the analog I replaced was brand new but still happens
Maybe you damaged a trace on the PCB when removing the old stick?!
please let me know the model or leave me a link to buy the tool to suck the solders
Just search for "Desolder Pump" on eBay! =D
Where can I get one of those vacumes you used for the solder?
It's called a desoldering station:- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140W-Desoldering-Station-Iron-Gun-230V-Vacuum-Professional-Removal-ESD/142898440603?epid=27015193320&hash=item214569299b:g:xEsAAOSwwCxbCw~X
Or you could by a temperature controlled soldering iron, and get a cheap desolder pump.
Thanks, it's a bit pricey but I'll try to get it.👍
Ever had this problem with Dualshock controllers?
No, but I imagine its very similar with regards to the fix.
do you have a link to the analogue replacements?
I just tend to hit eBay and see what I can find!
at 6:36 I couldn't hear but, what do you use to clean it?
I heard "Ice" but I know I'm wrong.
IPA - isopropyl alcohol! =D
please dont put ice on your controller
I just did this repair on both of my thumb sticks, and now my controller is stuck in a weird state. Whenever I go to turn it on, it blinks twice, and then stops working. My Xbox is rendering it as turned on, and has a little player one on the Xbox for a second, but then it goes away instantly. Anyone having a similar problem, and any recommendations on how to fix it?
Double check the work you have done and inspect the board super closely to make sure there are no solder particals that have landed in the wrong place bridging connections. It could be that one of the sticks fitted has a fault, or if you didn't wear an ESD wrist strap there's a chance something could have failed due to ESD.
Do you think I could replace xbox1 analog sticks with xbox360
Anyone know where I can get a new DVD drive for my Xbox 360? I can get gaps in sound while watching DVDs (they don't skip, I just lose bits of sound that return after I rewind to rewatch).
Also, my original Xbox needs a new DVD drive...
+adultmoshifan87 You are better off trying to source a replacement laser. In order to replace the drive I believe you would need to extract the 'key' from the drive, update the firmware of the new drive to contain that 'key' in order that the system will accept it. I could be talking crap, it's a while since I looked at hacking the 360 but I believe the DVD drives were signed and referenced in the main nand flash.
can i use analogue thumbs from ps2 ?
I doubt it, but they might fit - I cannot remember what the PS2 sticks look like internally. You can pick up new sticks or caps from eBay pretty cheap.
im already test it a few days a ago and work find :D
Is the latency because of the console or controller?
The latency is the XBOX1 HDMI input! I was testing the 360, but outputting the 360 HDMI into the XB1 and then outputting from XB1 to monitor via HDMI.
what was you using that was snapping it
Not sure what you mean, at which point in the video?
what was the Flux you used
I use 'Chip Quik' branded flux - It works really well, especially for any SMD work. eg. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHIP-QUIK-SMD291ST2CC6-NO-CLEAN-FLUX-6-X-2CC-/131596496699?hash=item1ea3c32f3b:g:VH8AAOSwd0BVyf3F
I did this and now my controller won't turn on when I click it the 2nd light blinks like a fraction of a second I was rushing but you think you could tell me what happened please
Maybe you damaged one of the wires or traces? Perhaps some solder in the wrong place or something? It's probably worth taking it to pieces again, and inspect the board with a magifying glass closely.
GadgetUK164 part of it was chard or black kinda of when the fuse of a firework goes off in your hand and it comes all black
Sounds like something has shorted somewhere then. If you cannot clean fix the damaged PCB with kynar wire, or if there's a faulty chip, it might be easier to just keep it for parts and get a new controller.
GadgetUK164 thanks man I already scrapped it and got a new controller so sad I was just trying to fix my older one to put it in a red housing but hey whatever waste of money really
Awesome! Thanks a lot!
What is that game called
Metal Slug XX
My kids just asked "can he fix anything?" Lol
***** LOL! I wish I could!!! I need to get my house maintenance skills up to a similar level - The list of jobs I need to do around the house is huge at the moment - too much time on gaming stuff and not enough focus on doing what I need to do lol.
NICE WORK !! THX
Shit... I need to replace left joystick and RB button... Thats gonna be a lot of work
Painful! At least the 360 controllers are better than XB1 controllers!
it's like a greying thick wire u was melting around it
Ah, that's called solder! Solder is a metal alloy that has a low melting point. You use a soldering iron to melt the solder, and after a few seconds its cold and forms a solid conductive connection to whatever its connected to. See here:- th-cam.com/video/Qps9woUGkvI/w-d-xo.html
And here:- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering
I need to do the same with 2 of my Xbox one controllers. They are weak as hell compared to my battered 8 year old 360 ones
***** Yeah, the 360 controllers were pretty sturdy really. The last couple of generations have gone down hill progressively in terms of reliability. Just waiting for the RROD equivalent on the XB1...
Good
Soldering is too hard
Buy a new controller only 50 pound
Buy a new tactile switch - 5p
it's like a greying thick wire u was melting around it