I'm a mechanic at John Deere can work on about anything and just wanted to tell u this guy is right on about these heaters! Just because your mechanable incline doesn't me you still can't learn new things. Great video . Best video guy walk u threw it like your in a dark maze. Thanks buddy
I have this same issue and Furnace. I am glad I came across this video as i was not sure how to remove the burner unit. I enjoy working on my Motor Home and your videos.
I just fixed our Atwood furnace that worked beautifully this spring , but would not fire up last week. After & as I removed the igniter & burner assembly I discovered mud dauber wasps had been busy. I removed almost a full pound of clay nests. They had to be scraped off & wire brushed. After thoroughly cleaning all the parts & reassembling, it works perfectly again. I am going to invest in some screening to block any critters from ever doing that again! 😖
Bro.. Thanks from the great white north... I've had issues with my heater for about a week now and thanks to your video I'm gonna be able to keep everyone warm tonight... Cheers
I was like the ol' man in A Christmas Story...last of the great furnace fighters...RV is only a year old and the furnace has been giving me fits...pulled the burner and found the flame sensor and igniter laying on the burner...adjusted as recommended here and...MAGIC! Thanks for the vid!
Aye, sir. Wonderful, articulate, no nonsense video. Similar symptoms and burner condition. The electrodes were touching the burner just like yours. I started to bend it gently and it snapped off, so two parts on order! Looking forward to a warm winter.
Thank you very much. I make videos for my trade (Marine Mechanic) and rarely find videos that help me! This was great. Used it to pull out my burner and clean it and yank the blower and make sure it was all clean this fall. Thanks again.
These are the most thoroughly explained & easy to follow videos I've found! Even though it didn't cover my exact model, the basic operation applies. Thank you for demystifying the RV furnace.
I'm glad I found this video. I've searched for a while trying to find a video with the same issues with my furnace. Thank you and keep up the good work!
Much appreciated. My Atwood heater would lite but provided minimal heat. With your guidance i removed burner assembly. Holes were partially closed. I used thumb drill and opened all to correct size and adjusted igniter clearance. Now operating as new. Thank you.
Thank you very much sir for your help. I have been working on this for a few years and I always watch your videos that help me a lot even though I don't understand English much, I am still in my job, greetings
Great videos Darren. Keep up the good work. I guess I'll have to get in line with my problems! I have an Atwood 8535-III furnace. I was excited that one of your videos you actually had that furnace to work on. You replaced the burner on that furnace. My problem goes a little farther. My burner was burned out, so I replaced it. I had previously replaced the fan motor. Then I had trouble with it running. Fan will come on, purge is done, 15 seconds later I have ignition. I can smell the propane, hear the ignition, and feel the heat. Then 10-15 seconds or so later, the fire goes out. It tries again for 2 more times, maybe more, not sure, as I shut it off by then. Igniter is in good shape. Sail switch is good. In fact, I do the thermostat bypass in one of your videos. Local RV shop said it might be the control board. Yikes, I hope not. Apparently, the ignition wire is used to monitor the burn after ignition. I have searched your videos, but can't seem to come up with one that covers my issue. I'll keep looking and checking. Thanks for listening. Bob
I am having the exact same problem, but intermittently. Right now I went to try to troubleshoot it but after shutting off twice, the third time it actually stayed on and continues to. So hard to fix what ain't broke lol
@@stevenovak9644 same here. If I try a few times, it runs and will continue to run when needed as long as I leave the thermostat temp up. However, if I turn the temperature down, say at night, say 10 degrees, and the furnace cools down, it’ll try three times to light, then just run the fan…
Your video was dead on. Had the same problem and the I had the same issues. Burner head was the problem. Easy to follow video!!! Had it fixed in 15 minutes thanks to you! (after I got the parts sent to me). Thanks so much for your great video!! We are back in business!
Thank you for this concise and VERY informative video. Really appreciate how you narrowed down the ignition side and not the control side of this system in the troubleshooting stage. THAT alone is priceless advise. Best to you.
Hi Jesus, We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks Happy Camping, My RV Works Media Team
Man you saved me SOOOOO much time and headache. Slightly more complex system but the ticking sound saved my ahem Now to hunt down my burner(1992 Excalibur 8900-II). So far everything else I’ve fiddled with has “updated” parts. But you rock
I'm hoping this turns out to be my problem. Everytime I think "this has got to be the problem!" It's not. This is the first thing I've seen tho that is my exact heater type. The walk through of what was on it was the best info I could've gotten. Will take a look tomorrow when it's light out and not freezing and see if I can once and for all figure out was the heck is wrong with my heater. (Same issues, it works fine then turn it on 30 minutes later and it won't heat at all) Thanks for the video and good work 👍
This is the video that fixed my furnace, I bought a complete tune up kit for it and replaced the most likely culprits but still no ignition. After seeing this I pulled the new igniter out and the angle didn't match the old one. Put the old back in and fired right up . I couldn't say what the original problem was , obviously it got fixed , but wasn't going to light up with the improper gap .
Thanks so much! I pulled mine and it had a huge dirt dauber nest on it! Thanks for making the disassembly easy. I could've taken it apart but knowing what to look for is the key!
So thankful for these videos. Is there a way to know if my furnace is running efficiently? It does light and produce heat but it definitely doesn't seem like 20,000 BTUs worth.
Just to let people know I've been a tech for over 55 years I do a lot of field adjustments on igniters like this sometimes increasing the Gap from three-sixteenths of an inch which is standard to 1/4 of an inch helps with the dinosaur electric boards and sometimes the factory boards and a lot of these heaters have a metal pipe that runs down the length of the heater coming off the burner assembly and most of the time you can't remove it cuz it's so stuck so I cut a slit in the metal bend it out of the way and pull burner and pipe out together also whatever the Gap is on the igniter and make sure you leave the igniter farther away from the burner assembly than the Gap at the igniter
So originally my issue was a dirty flame sensor was lighting then going out. 2 weeks later its doing the same again i clean the sensor again. Still doing it. Then i think i have a burner issue. But it looks almost brand new and flame sensor has plenty of spacing. Sail safe is clean of debris. What should i do?
Excellent work, mobile guy. One of my problems (not to get too personal) is the burner tube has "fused" into the housing. I sprayed a penetrating oil, but still frozen (rust?) in place. Don't want to man-handle it (person-handle? I'm in HR) so WWYD? FYI--well, preaching to the choir with you--when the cover is reinstalled it is a wise procedure to silicone the cover gap as water (rain) and mom boards do not play well together. Keep it dry, please. And as a quasi electrician, I now join all wiring or update potentially corroded fittings/wire connections with Wago fittings. Wire length considered, I trim back wire, strip, and in the event it is oxidized strip a bit further back, spin, and if I am real ambitious add a dollop of dialectric grease to wire end. Fully seat wires into Wago (not to be confused with Wagyu--beef) and insure a fault-free connection by tugging a bit on wires to make sure they are clamped in fully. Oh, and like you probably have mentioned before, I blow out burner chamber, just like a sooted-up water heater to rid the area of debris or any animal squatters. Wago connectors: they are the bomb (not affiliated). Lastly, who is responsible for choosing square drive screws over star pattern or a hex head? Square is more likely to suffer camming. When in doubt, sub it out. But square is better than phillips, and let's not even mention slotted (I did, sorry). Have a good day and stay warm. Oh, I have a heated jacket by Milwaukee (not affiliated) and the pockets are also heated, this way I can wear my favorite tactile-friendly electrician gloves (Portwest--not affiliated)
Thank you so much! I took my burner head out and it was exactly like the one you showed, (cracked and falling apart really). Oh, and it was full of stink bugs.. so I apparently need some of those fancy stainless steel mesh things and a new burner head.😂 Thanks again.👍👍
Hi Darren, just wanna thank you for the second time. You came and fixed my furnace a couple years ago in Poulsbo, and I was able to use this video to troubleshoot and fix the furnace on my new trailer. Any chance you have a part number for the electrods?
Ive been doing mostly residential HVAC hve been asked by multiple associates and friends to work on their rvs basically didnt have a clue and was hesitant this equipment is a walk in the park I knw you mentioned the burner ser# but I dont think you gave electrode ser# or I missed it question where do you acquire parts you mentioned Amazon does your industry have supply houses like residential hvac Johnstone etc.
I have this exact furnace. And your video really helped! It’s definitely our burner head. It looks worse than the one in the video. Anyway, I can’t seem to find that specific part anywhere. All my results keep turning up part 30268. And one RV parts site said the 30268 has been used to replace a 36043 and a couple other burner heads with success. So will a 30268 work?
Thank you so much for this video! I’ve been struggling with getting my Atwood 8531 in a 2001 Prowler to run once it’s warm. When it firsts starts it’ll fire right up, but when the furnace kicks back on to maintain temp I n the camper the fan will Blow but it won’t ignite. I’ve dismantled and cleaned the burner assembly, I’m at a loss. Any random internet help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
Thanks Darren. Have a customer with the same furnace in a 29 year old class A Beaver (well kept). Same problem. QUESTION: when you find the problem and have to come back when you have the part - is that an additional service charge? If so is the service charge discounted? I really appreciate your channel - it drives home the training I’ve had! Thanks so much. (Kentucky born and bread)
Great video! I Have exact Atwood 8531-IV . I’m having similar issue with my furnace buts it’s only 1 click sound not several clicking sound with gas coming out exhaust ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks you
Thank you for your hospitality!! Last couple winters it has been intermittent and I was hoping it wasn't the control board. Its August so getting a head start thanks to you! Greetings from Texas.
When you reassemble the burner back into the furnace, what seal / foam tape do you use between the heat exchanger wall and the piece the burner is screwed to ??
Your videos are so helpful. I have an 8531 fan runs burner ignites burns for a few seconds then the burner shuts off does this 3 times then it shuts down. Do u have any suggestions or a video addressing those symptoms
We're having almost the same issue... our furnace turns on and ignites a flame, but turns right back off.. it does this 3 times before turning off the blower. We are getting a (ignition lockout fault) blinking light on control board.. any help would be awesome
@@RojoFrijol We lit the stove to bleed out the possible air in the line and it worked... I also read to use compressed air and blow into the exhaust port, to clean debris from the sail switch, which we never had to do because it suddenly started working
I've had the same thing happen to my 8535 iii. Ordered a new burner an installed it. Same problem. I did everything I could think of, new gas valve and igniter. Still no Worley. Took apart again I noticed the burner was missing a little ramp inside the burner like the old one I removed. I drilled out the ramp an bolted it into the new one. Bingo, worked like a champ. Part was supposed to be a replacement part. NOT!!! I don't know if they really make a replacement part for it.
Could a heat exchanger be plugged from mud dobbers? Furnace would not light before, made all the sounds to light but would not. Burner was burnt up igniter was broke short, replaced both now it lights goes out lights goes out, gas pressure is right.
Thanks for the video. I have a new RV with intermittent heat, based on this video I'm confident the problem is on the ignitor side as well. I haven't pulled my burner to inspect yet, since it fires most of the time, and is new, should I still pull the burner to inspect the gap or would you move on to checking something else? We do live at 4900 feet above sea level and are camping at about 7700 feet above sea level.
One question that I would ask is in reference to propane. If your cylinders are new, you must make sure they were purged correctly. If there is any air in those cylinders it will cause issues with your furnace especially at that elevation. So, maybe try some different cylinders that you know for a fact we're purged properly before you start digging into the furnace considering that the furnace is new.
@@MyRVWorks thank you so much for your response, ours is a motorhome (2021 Tiburon) with an onboard tank 68 lb. tank, we have had it refilled 5 or 6 times, I noticed the issue occur shortly after we bought the RV. The furnace will cycle through and operate and fire like normal. It seems like the overnight time when its colder it then errors out, I can then reset the furnace and usually it will fire the second time, occasionally it will take 2 resets to fire. Then it will operate normally for a few times, and then it will cycle through as normal except fire.
@@MyRVWorks today I pulled the burner and found that the gap between the ignitor was about 1/4 inch form each other and the burner moved them closer to the 1/8 inch and it fires a lot quicker than it ever has. hopefully that's the issue. Thank you for the great videos they helped me a lot!
So originally my issue was a dirty flame sensor was lighting then going out. 2 weeks later its doing the same again i clean the sensor again. Still doing it. Then i think i have a burner issue. But it looks almost brand new and flame sensor has plenty of spacing. Sail safe is clean of debris. What should i do?
Hey there, great video. Just replaced my burner and igniter because I thought it would fix my issue. But... it didn't. Mine is clicking, you smell the gas but it won't ignite. It was igniting but not staying lit with the old parts in. Any suggestions?
Hi, I was able to replace my igniter and then my electrode, as I broke the tip of one. But my question. Is why is it still intermittent again. No lights flashing. I did see the light flash one time and then nothing. Hoping you could help!! Thanks.
For this particular model that you are working on, what is the part number to replace the blower motor? I have asked on several other sites and looked at comments from others, but to no avail. Thank you for your time and great videos.
I have an 8535-IV and two different issues have occurred. Failure to start a few years ago. It tried to start but didn't. I don't remember if it lit a fault code light but one time while I was investigating I moved a wire and it came to life. My diagnosis was the scotch lock type tap in connectors failed. The fix was a little bit of rewiring maintaining the same circuitry but ELIMINATING the failing tap connections. These are where a wire is going from A-B and wire C intercepts A-B thru the insulation with a piercing connection. The other was stink bugs found the mixing chamber inside the burner assy that you're replacing and they would roll around in the air/gas mix and made a popping sound. Remove their crispy carcass and all's well. Yesterday I inspected the sail switch for grins and for working on this unit a 1/4" nut driver with a magnetic head should be a gotta use it tool for the job. Darren, Good logic this happens but this doesn't thinking to figure out where to look. Gary
Hey !!! I’m here in Canada and need to convert an 8500 atwood to natural gas . I know that only 8900 can be converted .. is it a straight swap if I change the RV furnace to 8900 ? Any suggestion ? Thanks
So I have a 1990 lynx prowler and the issue I have is it ignites runs for about 30secs to a min then the heat shuts off, or it runs threw a cycle then shuts off and won’t turn on unless thermostat is turned down then turned back on, what would you recommend to diagnose?
I have this furnace. It just started tripping on high temp. I haven't been able to determine why. Works correctly otherwise. Furnace turns on, provides heat. Vents get extremely hot. Can not stop on grates as it'll burn your foot. Burner kicks off, circ fan stays on, then once cool enough, heat turns on again. Rince and repeat until the thermostat has reached temp. Burner issue?
So i just took my burner out i also have a hole so ill replace that cause i 2as having intermediate lighting aswell. My question i have is i have 3 prongs coming out to the mesh and my prongs are no where near as close to the mesh ilas this in the video. How far from the mesh should it be
i have this exact furnace which is only blowing cold air.. no clicks, no ignition, just consistent blowing of cold air. I removed the wingnut to pull out the exhaust port but its not budging even a little. should I spray some lube on the back of the port where it slides into the hole, or is there another screw i am overlooking?
Could the problem have also been a dirty sail switch? I'm having the exact same problem, getting clicking and gas after the fan starts but no ignition. Hoping if I clean the sail switch it MAY solve my issue but can't find it.
Furnace ran all the way from 51ﾟ to 66° and then pilot light shut off and then came back on about 30 seconds later and then shut off after reaching 68 degrees what the thermostat was set for. At night the thermostat is at 59 and goes down to about 57 and comes back on all night long and no problem at all never shuts the pilot light off in between. Any ideas .
Got a question for you one I would like to contact you and the second is I’ve don all the test on my heater except the propane pressure. Symptoms are it will go through the proper sequences to ignite fan turns on gas valve turns on igniter sparks makes a popping sound won’t stay lit but if I turn the main gas valve off on the propane let it go through the cycles start to ignite and slowly turn the gas valve on the heater will stay lit and running then when it cycles on again same symptoms starts up gas valve turns on igniter lights but then it pops and then cycles it continually and unless I turn the gas valve off and slowly crack the gas valve on does that point to a bad regulator.
problem: i got the atwood 8535-1 furnace. got the dinosaur Fan 50 control board but the plug wires don't match up. fits fine but one wire has no contact when plugged into dinosaur. original has pwr, v1, s1, & gnd. the s1 doesnt go anywhere on dinosaur board. everything else matches. thats the flame sensor. i can move the pin but only thing left is "NC"? my furnace thermostat grounds the circuit & also i have time delay relay so i dont think i use the t-stat pin on the dinosaur board. also i thought if i used the dinosaur board i would NOT need to have the time-delay relay anymore. thats what i read online. cant find any info & Dinosaur ele has NO phone #.
@myrvworks I have the Attwood 8535 IV. I replaced the burner head but unit will not kick on at all. It was turning on prior to replacing burn but heat was intermittent. The unit will not kick on at all now. Any advice? Did we break something in the repair or miss reconnecting something. We checked everything and it all appears to be connected. Any help and advice is appreciated.
My heater was making the same ticking when attempting to ignite and would pop loudly. When I took it apart, I found the burner head mesh nearly completely burned. Ordering a new one right now!
I put new sail switch, new mother mother board and new blower motor my problem is it does not seem to blow through the vents or duct system like it should
I have to ask because I had to buy a $50 relay to replace the failed one on the original unit I have. I don't see one in your harness, did you bypass it completely?
I think you're referring to the time delay relay. The older furnaces required those. On the newer furnaces that functionality is Incorporated on to the control board.
The question here is do you ever hear ignition? If the furnace does not try to ignite that then your issue is going to be on the control side, which could be sail switch, high temperature switch, or control board. If you get ignition and it Flames out then the problems not on the control side but it's on the igniter side which would be your burner head, the electrode itself, or control board. You just have to know which way the trail will take you, pre-ignition or post-ignition. Having said that, we've got many furnace videos and our furnace playlist here: th-cam.com/play/PLk44vSl27TRCaZIQbm-0utYK7sVOKwXVY.html
Help, my furnace fires up (Atwood 8525-IV), fan runs and burner ignites then after 5 secs burner shuts off, fan continues to run, burner tries 3 times then locks out.
i cant remove the burner for the life of me. My RV has two furnaces, both with issues and neither burner will come out after I remove the wing nut. Any suggestions? I tapped at it and pried but no luck. Is it possible some models have the burner spot welded into place?
If you're talking about the pipe that protrudes to the outside, you have to wiggle it up down sideways with quite a bit of force sometimes to get it out. Do all of that as you are pulling really hard on it.
I'm a mechanic at John Deere can work on about anything and just wanted to tell u this guy is right on about these heaters! Just because your mechanable incline doesn't me you still can't learn new things. Great video . Best video guy walk u threw it like your in a dark maze. Thanks buddy
As a mechanical engineer, I just wanted to say: Awesome Video!!!
I have this same issue and Furnace. I am glad I came across this video as i was not sure how to remove the burner unit. I enjoy working on my Motor Home and your videos.
Helped me get my heat back on at 4:00 in the morning....in Alaska. In Autumn. With a wife and kid in the camper.
You're a lifesaver, bud. Thank you!
I just fixed our Atwood furnace that worked beautifully this spring , but would not fire up last week. After & as I removed the igniter & burner assembly I discovered mud dauber wasps had been busy. I removed almost a full pound of clay nests. They had to be scraped off & wire brushed. After thoroughly cleaning all the parts & reassembling, it works perfectly again. I am going to invest in some screening to block any critters from ever doing that again! 😖
Bro.. Thanks from the great white north... I've had issues with my heater for about a week now and thanks to your video I'm gonna be able to keep everyone warm tonight... Cheers
I was like the ol' man in A Christmas Story...last of the great furnace fighters...RV is only a year old and the furnace has been giving me fits...pulled the burner and found the flame sensor and igniter laying on the burner...adjusted as recommended here and...MAGIC! Thanks for the vid!
Aye, sir. Wonderful, articulate, no nonsense video. Similar symptoms and burner condition. The electrodes were touching the burner just like yours. I started to bend it gently and it snapped off, so two parts on order! Looking forward to a warm winter.
Thumbs up from me pal! Same burner model, same issues, same problem when I took it apart.
No BS video....finally!
Thank you very much. I make videos for my trade (Marine Mechanic) and rarely find videos that help me! This was great. Used it to pull out my burner and clean it and yank the blower and make sure it was all clean this fall. Thanks again.
Thank You, Your video was spot on to identify the problem with my furnace. I was able to fix it myself.
These are the most thoroughly explained & easy to follow videos I've found! Even though it didn't cover my exact model, the basic operation applies. Thank you for demystifying the RV furnace.
Thank you from Port Ludlow, WA. I've been trying to troubleshoot my own furnace and this gives me another thing to check.
I'm glad I found this video. I've searched for a while trying to find a video with the same issues with my furnace. Thank you and keep up the good work!
Glad it helped
Much appreciated. My Atwood heater would lite but provided minimal heat. With your guidance i removed burner assembly. Holes were partially closed. I used thumb drill and opened all to correct size and adjusted igniter clearance. Now operating as new. Thank you.
Thank you very much sir for your help. I have been working on this for a few years and I always watch your videos that help me a lot even though I don't understand English much, I am still in my job, greetings
Thanks for all the tips. I replaced my burner, cleaned up the igniter electrode and adjusted to 1/8 from burner and it fired right up.
Great videos Darren. Keep up the good work. I guess I'll have to get in line with my problems! I have an Atwood 8535-III furnace. I was excited that one of your videos you actually had that furnace to work on. You replaced the burner on that furnace. My problem goes a little farther. My burner was burned out, so I replaced it. I had previously replaced the fan motor. Then I had trouble with it running. Fan will come on, purge is done, 15 seconds later I have ignition. I can smell the propane, hear the ignition, and feel the heat. Then 10-15 seconds or so later, the fire goes out. It tries again for 2 more times, maybe more, not sure, as I shut it off by then. Igniter is in good shape. Sail switch is good. In fact, I do the thermostat bypass in one of your videos. Local RV shop said it might be the control board. Yikes, I hope not. Apparently, the ignition wire is used to monitor the burn after ignition. I have searched your videos, but can't seem to come up with one that covers my issue. I'll keep looking and checking. Thanks for listening. Bob
@eagle works did u fix the problem i have the same issue after replacing my blower motor it would run fine prior but now it wont stay lit
I am having the exact same problem, but intermittently. Right now I went to try to troubleshoot it but after shutting off twice, the third time it actually stayed on and continues to. So hard to fix what ain't broke lol
@@stevenovak9644 same here. If I try a few times, it runs and will continue to run when needed as long as I leave the thermostat temp up. However, if I turn the temperature down, say at night, say 10 degrees, and the furnace cools down, it’ll try three times to light, then just run the fan…
Your video was dead on. Had the same problem and the I had the same issues. Burner head was the problem. Easy to follow video!!! Had it fixed in 15 minutes thanks to you! (after I got the parts sent to me). Thanks so much for your great video!! We are back in business!
Thank you for this concise and VERY informative video. Really appreciate how you narrowed down the ignition side and not the control side of this system in the troubleshooting stage. THAT alone is priceless advise. Best to you.
Hi Jesus,
We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Happy Camping,
My RV Works Media Team
I agree with Jesus' post
Man you saved me SOOOOO much time and headache. Slightly more complex system but the ticking sound saved my ahem Now to hunt down my burner(1992 Excalibur 8900-II). So far everything else I’ve fiddled with has “updated” parts. But you rock
I'm hoping this turns out to be my problem. Everytime I think "this has got to be the problem!" It's not. This is the first thing I've seen tho that is my exact heater type.
The walk through of what was on it was the best info I could've gotten.
Will take a look tomorrow when it's light out and not freezing and see if I can once and for all figure out was the heck is wrong with my heater. (Same issues, it works fine then turn it on 30 minutes later and it won't heat at all)
Thanks for the video and good work 👍
What was the little trick with those wire clips
You were great to listen to and watch. Your video was very helpful. I'm ready to tear my furnace apart now. Thank you!
This is the video that fixed my furnace, I bought a complete tune up kit for it and replaced the most likely culprits but still no ignition. After seeing this I pulled the new igniter out and the angle didn't match the old one. Put the old back in and fired right up . I couldn't say what the original problem was , obviously it got fixed , but wasn't going to light up with the improper gap .
Thanks so much! I pulled mine and it had a huge dirt dauber nest on it! Thanks for making the disassembly easy. I could've taken it apart but knowing what to look for is the key!
So thankful for these videos. Is there a way to know if my furnace is running efficiently? It does light and produce heat but it definitely doesn't seem like 20,000 BTUs worth.
I am so glad I found this. THANK YOU!!!!
just wanted to say thank you for your skills and the manuals you posted.... i am about to redo my heater as everything is rusted
Just to let people know I've been a tech for over 55 years I do a lot of field adjustments on igniters like this sometimes increasing the Gap from three-sixteenths of an inch which is standard to 1/4 of an inch helps with the dinosaur electric boards and sometimes the factory boards and a lot of these heaters have a metal pipe that runs down the length of the heater coming off the burner assembly and most of the time you can't remove it cuz it's so stuck so I cut a slit in the metal bend it out of the way and pull burner and pipe out together also whatever the Gap is on the igniter and make sure you leave the igniter farther away from the burner assembly than the Gap at the igniter
So originally my issue was a dirty flame sensor was lighting then going out. 2 weeks later its doing the same again i clean the sensor again. Still doing it. Then i think i have a burner issue. But it looks almost brand new and flame sensor has plenty of spacing. Sail safe is clean of debris. What should i do?
Thank you Darin! I have been watching your videos and 8:20 replacing parts in my Atwood furnace for days now. Great information! Thank you!
Great video Darren, I have an 8535-iii with the same issue in your video. Need to check mine out. I have two furnace, going to look at both.
Awesome video. Perfect amount of commentary and explanation. Also, Semper Fi from Port Orchard, WA.
Excellent work, mobile guy. One of my problems (not to get too personal) is the burner tube has "fused" into the housing. I sprayed a penetrating oil, but still frozen (rust?) in place. Don't want to man-handle it (person-handle? I'm in HR) so WWYD?
FYI--well, preaching to the choir with you--when the cover is reinstalled it is a wise procedure to silicone the cover gap as water (rain) and mom boards do not play well together. Keep it dry, please. And as a quasi electrician, I now join all wiring or update potentially corroded fittings/wire connections with Wago fittings. Wire length considered, I trim back wire, strip, and in the event it is oxidized strip a bit further back, spin, and if I am real ambitious add a dollop of dialectric grease to wire end. Fully seat wires into Wago (not to be confused with Wagyu--beef) and insure a fault-free connection by tugging a bit on wires to make sure they are clamped in fully. Oh, and like you probably have mentioned before, I blow out burner chamber, just like a sooted-up water heater to rid the area of debris or any animal squatters. Wago connectors: they are the bomb (not affiliated).
Lastly, who is responsible for choosing square drive screws over star pattern or a hex head? Square is more likely to suffer camming. When in doubt, sub it out. But square is better than phillips, and let's not even mention slotted (I did, sorry).
Have a good day and stay warm. Oh, I have a heated jacket by Milwaukee (not affiliated) and the pockets are also heated, this way I can wear my favorite tactile-friendly electrician gloves (Portwest--not affiliated)
Great video. Like this guy . Video was great
Thank you so much! I took my burner head out and it was exactly like the one you showed, (cracked and falling apart really).
Oh, and it was full of stink bugs.. so I apparently need some of those fancy stainless steel mesh things and a new burner head.😂
Thanks again.👍👍
Hi Darren, just wanna thank you for the second time. You came and fixed my furnace a couple years ago in Poulsbo, and I was able to use this video to troubleshoot and fix the furnace on my new trailer. Any chance you have a part number for the electrods?
34570
Having the exact same problem with intermittent operation. Thanks for the video! I’ll check it out today and see what’s going on.
Very helpful video new to rv living and this saved the day.
Excellent explanation, informative and detailed. Same thing happened to me. Thank you for this video!
Ive been doing mostly residential HVAC hve been asked by multiple associates and friends to work on their rvs basically didnt have a clue and was hesitant this equipment is a walk in the park I knw you mentioned the burner ser# but I dont think you gave electrode ser# or I missed it question where do you acquire parts you mentioned Amazon does your industry have supply houses like residential hvac Johnstone etc.
I have this exact furnace. And your video really helped! It’s definitely our burner head. It looks worse than the one in the video. Anyway, I can’t seem to find that specific part anywhere. All my results keep turning up part 30268. And one RV parts site said the 30268 has been used to replace a 36043 and a couple other burner heads with success. So will a 30268 work?
Thank you so much for this video! I’ve been struggling with getting my Atwood 8531 in a 2001 Prowler to run once it’s warm. When it firsts starts it’ll fire right up, but when the furnace kicks back on to maintain temp I n the camper the fan will
Blow but it won’t ignite. I’ve dismantled and cleaned the burner assembly, I’m at a loss. Any random internet help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
Thanks Darren. Have a customer with the same furnace in a 29 year old class A Beaver (well kept). Same problem. QUESTION: when you find the problem and have to come back when you have the part - is that an additional service charge? If so is the service charge discounted? I really appreciate your channel - it drives home the training I’ve had! Thanks so much. (Kentucky born and bread)
Accurate and concise Some videographers include a lot of irrelevant information. I'm going to fix mine myself. Thanks.
Thank you for your video. This help me fix my semi plugged orifice .
Glad it helped!
Great video! I Have exact Atwood 8531-IV . I’m having similar issue with my furnace buts it’s only 1 click sound not several clicking sound with gas coming out exhaust ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks you
Huge Thanks!! That was my problem and fix it because of you 🙏🏼 !!
Thank you for your hospitality!! Last couple winters it has been intermittent and I was hoping it wasn't the control board. Its August so getting a head start thanks to you! Greetings from Texas.
I hope you got it fixed before the Big Freeze!
When you reassemble the burner back into the furnace, what seal / foam tape do you use between the heat exchanger wall and the piece the burner is screwed to ??
Your videos are so helpful. I have an 8531 fan runs burner ignites burns for a few seconds then the burner shuts off does this 3 times then it shuts down. Do u have any suggestions or a video addressing those symptoms
Do you have any videos about fixing the rattling noise the furnace makes at the end of the video?
We're having almost the same issue... our furnace turns on and ignites a flame, but turns right back off.. it does this 3 times before turning off the blower. We are getting a (ignition lockout fault) blinking light on control board.. any help would be awesome
I have the same problem did you ever get it fixed?
@@RojoFrijol We lit the stove to bleed out the possible air in the line and it worked... I also read to use compressed air and blow into the exhaust port, to clean debris from the sail switch, which we never had to do because it suddenly started working
I've had the same thing happen to my 8535 iii. Ordered a new burner an installed it. Same problem. I did everything I could think of, new gas valve and igniter. Still no Worley. Took apart again I noticed the burner was missing a little ramp inside the burner like the old one I removed. I drilled out the ramp an bolted it into the new one. Bingo, worked like a champ. Part was supposed to be a replacement part. NOT!!! I don't know if they really make a replacement part for it.
Could a heat exchanger be plugged from mud dobbers? Furnace would not light before, made all the sounds to light but would not. Burner was burnt up igniter was broke short, replaced both now it lights goes out lights goes out, gas pressure is right.
Great instructions. I'm going to give it a shot. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. I have a new RV with intermittent heat, based on this video I'm confident the problem is on the ignitor side as well. I haven't pulled my burner to inspect yet, since it fires most of the time, and is new, should I still pull the burner to inspect the gap or would you move on to checking something else? We do live at 4900 feet above sea level and are camping at about 7700 feet above sea level.
One question that I would ask is in reference to propane. If your cylinders are new, you must make sure they were purged correctly. If there is any air in those cylinders it will cause issues with your furnace especially at that elevation. So, maybe try some different cylinders that you know for a fact we're purged properly before you start digging into the furnace considering that the furnace is new.
@@MyRVWorks thank you so much for your response, ours is a motorhome (2021 Tiburon) with an onboard tank 68 lb. tank, we have had it refilled 5 or 6 times, I noticed the issue occur shortly after we bought the RV.
The furnace will cycle through and operate and fire like normal. It seems like the overnight time when its colder it then errors out, I can then reset the furnace and usually it will fire the second time, occasionally it will take 2 resets to fire. Then it will operate normally for a few times, and then it will cycle through as normal except fire.
@@MyRVWorks today I pulled the burner and found that the gap between the ignitor was about 1/4 inch form each other and the burner moved them closer to the 1/8 inch and it fires a lot quicker than it ever has. hopefully that's the issue. Thank you for the great videos they helped me a lot!
So originally my issue was a dirty flame sensor was lighting then going out. 2 weeks later its doing the same again i clean the sensor again. Still doing it. Then i think i have a burner issue. But it looks almost brand new and flame sensor has plenty of spacing. Sail safe is clean of debris. What should i do?
Hey there, great video. Just replaced my burner and igniter because I thought it would fix my issue. But... it didn't. Mine is clicking, you smell the gas but it won't ignite. It was igniting but not staying lit with the old parts in. Any suggestions?
Hi, I was able to replace my igniter and then my electrode, as I broke the tip of one. But my question. Is why is it still intermittent again. No lights flashing. I did see the light flash one time and then nothing. Hoping you could help!! Thanks.
Hi I have watched your videos, I have a 8531-DCLP Atwood Hydro Flame furnace that needs a blower motor, what is the correct replacement motor?
Super informative video, very well done on explaining the symptoms of what the furnace was doing and where to look for the problem.
For this particular model that you are working on, what is the part number to replace the blower motor? I have asked on several other sites and looked at comments from others, but to no avail. Thank you for your time and great videos.
I have the same model furnace. No clicking, the blower doesnt turn on, what should i check first to last?
I have an 8535-IV and two different issues have occurred. Failure to start a few years ago. It tried to start but didn't. I don't remember if it lit a fault code light but one time while I was investigating I moved a wire and it came to life. My diagnosis was the scotch lock type tap in connectors failed. The fix was a little bit of rewiring maintaining the same circuitry but ELIMINATING the failing tap connections. These are where a wire is going from A-B and wire C intercepts A-B thru the insulation with a piercing connection.
The other was stink bugs found the mixing chamber inside the burner assy that you're replacing and they would roll around in the air/gas mix and made a popping sound. Remove their crispy carcass and all's well.
Yesterday I inspected the sail switch for grins and for working on this unit a 1/4" nut driver with a magnetic head should be a gotta use it tool for the job.
Darren, Good logic this happens but this doesn't thinking to figure out where to look.
Gary
To schedule a service consult with Darren please sign up for the "1:1 Repair Consult" on our Patreon site. www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Hey !!! I’m here in Canada and need to convert an 8500 atwood to natural gas . I know that only 8900 can be converted .. is it a straight swap if I change the RV furnace to 8900 ? Any suggestion ? Thanks
Is this the same problem if the flame starts, and shuts off like 5-10 seconds after ignition?
So I have a 1990 lynx prowler and the issue I have is it ignites runs for about 30secs to a min then the heat shuts off, or it runs threw a cycle then shuts off and won’t turn on unless thermostat is turned down then turned back on, what would you recommend to diagnose?
Very good job, detailed information and concise 👍👍
I have this furnace. It just started tripping on high temp. I haven't been able to determine why. Works correctly otherwise. Furnace turns on, provides heat. Vents get extremely hot. Can not stop on grates as it'll burn your foot. Burner kicks off, circ fan stays on, then once cool enough, heat turns on again. Rince and repeat until the thermostat has reached temp. Burner issue?
I am having the exact same thing with a SF30, thank you so much, and wish me luck
@3:30 I have the same Furnace and I'm having a hard time getting the gas valve disconnected... I can not get it to budge. Any help would appreciated.
It's possible that it's reverse threaded, so instead of "Righty tighty, lefty loosey" it's reversed. Just a thought
@@dansmith6990 thanks for replying. I actually got it off but it was really tough.
So i just took my burner out i also have a hole so ill replace that cause i 2as having intermediate lighting aswell. My question i have is i have 3 prongs coming out to the mesh and my prongs are no where near as close to the mesh ilas this in the video. How far from the mesh should it be
Why didn't you show the installation of the parts you replaced?
i have this exact furnace which is only blowing cold air.. no clicks, no ignition, just consistent blowing of cold air. I removed the wingnut to pull out the exhaust port but its not budging even a little. should I spray some lube on the back of the port where it slides into the hole, or is there another screw i am overlooking?
We've had success with using 'PB Blaster' and just let it soak for some time.
amzn.to/49stLC6
Is their any kind of way to get the exhaust pipe out? I've run out of ideas from wiggling to prying to no avail?
Excellent video and delivery. Thanks for keeping that short, sweet, and efficient. Great content and awesome relay of information.
Great stuff. You are helping me with all my projects with my trailer .. Much appreciate it buddy .....
Could the problem have also been a dirty sail switch? I'm having the exact same problem, getting clicking and gas after the fan starts but no ignition. Hoping if I clean the sail switch it MAY solve my issue but can't find it.
Furnace ran all the way from 51ﾟ to 66° and then pilot light shut off and then came back on about 30 seconds later and then shut off after reaching 68 degrees what the thermostat was set for. At night the thermostat is at 59 and goes down to about 57 and comes back on all night long and no problem at all never shuts the pilot light off in between. Any ideas .
8535 IV ignites and goes out after 5 seconds. It never stops sparking after flame ignites. Any thoughts?
I have soot coming from my heater - where should I start
Got a question for you
one I would like to contact you and the second is I’ve don all the test on my heater except the propane pressure. Symptoms are it will go through the proper sequences to ignite fan turns on gas valve turns on igniter sparks makes a popping sound won’t stay lit but if I turn the main gas valve off on the propane let it go through the cycles start to ignite and slowly turn the gas valve on the heater will stay lit and running then when it cycles on again same symptoms starts up gas valve turns on igniter lights but then it pops and then cycles it continually and unless I turn the gas valve off and slowly crack the gas valve on does that point to a bad regulator.
Thank you, thank you, I did what you said, I know have heat, I'm from Virginia Beach, Virginia, I found problem on the burner side
problem: i got the atwood 8535-1 furnace. got the dinosaur Fan 50
control board but the plug wires don't match up. fits fine but one wire
has no contact when plugged into dinosaur. original has pwr, v1, s1,
& gnd. the s1 doesnt go anywhere on dinosaur board. everything else
matches. thats the flame sensor. i can move the pin but only thing left
is "NC"? my furnace thermostat grounds the circuit & also i have
time delay relay so i dont think i use the t-stat pin on the dinosaur
board. also i thought if i used the dinosaur board i would NOT need to
have the time-delay relay anymore. thats what i read online. cant find
any info & Dinosaur ele has NO phone #.
@myrvworks I have the Attwood 8535 IV. I replaced the burner head but unit will not kick on at all. It was turning on prior to replacing burn but heat was intermittent. The unit will not kick on at all now. Any advice? Did we break something in the repair or miss reconnecting something. We checked everything and it all appears to be connected. Any help and advice is appreciated.
My heater was making the same ticking when attempting to ignite and would pop loudly. When I took it apart, I found the burner head mesh nearly completely burned. Ordering a new one right now!
Hope my video has helped. Happy camping and good luck.
I put new sail switch, new mother mother board and new blower motor my problem is it does not seem to blow through the vents or duct system like it should
Do you need any tape on the propane connector? Thanks
The thread tape is only used for pipe thread connections. You would never use thread tape on a flare connection.
I have to ask because I had to buy a $50 relay to replace the failed one on the original unit I have. I don't see one in your harness, did you bypass it completely?
I think you're referring to the time delay relay. The older furnaces required those. On the newer furnaces that functionality is Incorporated on to the control board.
I have a atwood hydro flame 1988 .do you have any videos on short cycling .mine cycles at 2 minutes
The question here is do you ever hear ignition? If the furnace does not try to ignite that then your issue is going to be on the control side, which could be sail switch, high temperature switch, or control board. If you get ignition and it Flames out then the problems not on the control side but it's on the igniter side which would be your burner head, the electrode itself, or control board. You just have to know which way the trail will take you, pre-ignition or post-ignition. Having said that, we've got many furnace videos and our furnace playlist here: th-cam.com/play/PLk44vSl27TRCaZIQbm-0utYK7sVOKwXVY.html
Thanks for the information, mine is doing the same thing and this video will help me to fix my furnace. Much appreciated!
How did you get to those screws?
Not sure what you mean but, a long screwdriver or nut driver or an extension on your screw gun.
After fan fire starts but after a few seconds goes out and retrys 3 times and then shuts off. Any ideas???
Mines not even blowing or making that noise when turned on... any help
Help, my furnace fires up (Atwood 8525-IV), fan runs and burner ignites then after 5 secs burner shuts off, fan continues to run, burner tries 3 times then locks out.
My fan won’t even start. Getting the airflow signal. Any tips?
i cant remove the burner for the life of me. My RV has two furnaces, both with issues and neither burner will come out after I remove the wing nut. Any suggestions? I tapped at it and pried but no luck. Is it possible some models have the burner spot welded into place?
If you're talking about the pipe that protrudes to the outside, you have to wiggle it up down sideways with quite a bit of force sometimes to get it out. Do all of that as you are pulling really hard on it.
SEMPER FIDELIS. HAPPY BIRTHDAY Thank you so much
This was exactly my problem and your videos are so helpful. Your the man.
mine does not have a service door on the exterior....