Troubleshooting Atwood furnace part 2
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2019
- Part 2 in my furnace repair series more will follow
Repair Parts:
Controle Board: amzn.to/2OmwvIB
dinosaur universal furnace fan50Plus board: amzn.to/31kCaED
basic tstat: amzn.to/2OnI2aD
new style tstat: amzn.to/2tntUHc
blower motor: amzn.to/2RVxXn
analog tstat: amzn.to/2udZyaC
5button CCC: amzn.to/2UjACcl
sail switch Small: amzn.to/2UltUm4
burner: amzn.to/2SdYkEk
limit switch: amzn.to/2RR3Du9
combustion wheel: amzn.to/2Sf5LuO
blower wheel: amzn.to/2UkyAsD
electrode: amzn.to/3b3Sf5T
8500 sail switch: amzn.to/2RQDEDa
sail switch medium to large: amzn.to/2GQGeml
to purchase tools in video:
Fluke meter with accessories- amzn.to/2RiT8QK
• Troubleshooting Atwood... part1
• Troubleshooting Atwood... part2
• Troubleshooting Atwood... Part3
• Troubleshooting Atwood... part4
other tools I use:
olfa knife- amzn.to/2LfQsPZ
drill bits- amzn.to/2PfP4Oi
angle grinder- amzn.to/384b8nP
1/2 impact gun- amzn.to/2sIWQZE
scissors- amzn.to/34NnxdP
step bits- amzn.to/2DFqLUG
heated coat- amzn.to/361wwZ6
hammer bits- amzn.to/2Rgd72o
m12 die grinder- amzn.to/2ONFALg
replacement filter for milwaukee vacuum- amzn.to/2YeQUDf
Vacuum milwaukee- amzn.to/33P51QO
Drill- amzn.to/2qjG0Qf
1/4" impact- amzn.to/2r23pGl
osculating tool- amzn.to/2DKM87b
Driver Bits- amzn.to/34O2Y0T
Markers- amzn.to/2YfCy5F
Extension- amzn.to/389wujx
step bits- amzn.to/366eoNQ
18" pipe wrench- amzn.to/2OMrEB8
pipe cutter- amzn.to/361JUwg
flaring tool- amzn.to/2OOoBIC
pipe threader- amzn.to/2YhQwE0
vacuum detail kit ridgid shop vac- amzn.to/2PekW61
copper cleaning brush- amzn.to/2YjMZoA
hepa filter ridgid shop vac- amzn.to/386PWO2
plastic pipe cutter- amzn.to/2LnMKUw
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Thank you so much for doing this video. I am unable to take my rig to a RV repair place because we are living in it while we build our house. This video really saved me a headache and helped me resolve an issue. Thanks again.
Aha! You said something at about the 7:00 mark that helped tremendously! After not having any ignition on my furnace while camping, I removed it and started tearing it apart. After some tinkering, I was then able to get it to light but only for a few seconds, before it would stop, and then attempt to re-lite, but it refused to stay lit. I was about ready to start buying the flame sensor and a board, having already tested the sail and heat switches - but when you said “without the exhaust tube it will put itself out due to sucking exhaust back in” - BINGO. Input the tube on (while furnace is still apart on the floor of my camper) and now it stays on and heats. Thanks for this small but important tip!!!
Glad i could help you out.
This also helped me out big time!!!
Thanks for your demo. Just what I needed.
Thank you this helped a lot I figured out my limit switch was bad 👍🏻👍🏻
Fantastic man... thanks for doing this.
Thanks for the instruction man. I’ve determined I’ve probably got a bad or dirty sail switch, same model as this, Atwood 8531-IV. What’s the easiest way to get that out wo pulling the whole unit?
Dude ,,you're awesome,,I was frigging with a 8525 unit a d it kept shutting off after lighting,,sure enough short exhaust tube the problem..put a piece of tin in place and unit ra like a top
Glad it helped
Thank you. I have isolated it to the limit switch but how the heck do I get to it? Do I really need to pull the entire thing out of my rv? Its connected to the black plastic molded mounting box that you have on your new one here. Its caulked to my rv and I would really like to not have to remove the caulking and re caulk later.
If your radio was off it would be easier to hear you, thanks for the video
How do I test if my flame sensor is sending signal that is supposed to back to the board
Hey. I have an Atwood furnace in my camper. I've noticed it'll light off for a couple seconds and snuff itself out. I noticed you said there was a flame sensor on there. Which parts acts as a flame sensor? Was it that control valve?
Could you please post the part number or link to the product for the switch mentioned at roughly 30 second mark of this video? Thanks
Enjoy all your videos. I have that same unit and need to get the gas valve out. Could you possibly do a video on that.not sure how to get that long gas line loose, really hard to find a way to get a back up wrench on the valve. Thanks man.
Thanks glad you enjoyed them. Trying to get better at it a little shaky at times. I have that furnace sitting on the floor in the shop so I will do a complete tear down here as soon as I can.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 That would be awesome. It’s only a couple years hold, used once. But I pulled out some large mud robbers nest. Ignites but then turns off. Wanna tear into it further to see if they got further into the heat exchanger. Don’t want to cause more issues damaging that long gas line.
do you have a video of you taking it out?
Hey great video
Question hey so when i get a 3 flash /lock out what do i do
As my furnace will not shut off I thought replaced the circuit board but no not the problem at all I'm currently looking for a thermostat for it, I pulled the control box off the wall see what is what and to see phone jack looking like the RJ11 cable I'm like hey pull it out wait 10 second maybe it will reset, well now I have no power to the thermostat and or the furnace what the fack
I'm stuck with 1° out and no heat now please help
Is this my thermostat??
I looked and see duo therm ac and my Atwood 8535 has no thermostat that corresponds with the RJ11 cable wth now please any help !
Cool video. I need to replace my Atwood model 2334 furnace. Do you have any suggestions on where to buy the entire unit? For a reasonable price? The previous owners had removed the gas valve and capped the gas line. It appears to be in decent shape but I don't think I want to trust the heat exchanger and its in a 2005 rv. I would feel better just spending the money for a new unit. Any suggestions on where to shop for that exact model?
I would take the furnace out and take it out of the case and inspect the heat exchanger. I don’t really feel it would be a problem and a gas valve would be cheaper. But as far a buying a whole new furnace just look around and check prices.
Can you tell me how to disconnect the gas from the valve where it passes through the top of the furnace sheet metal and connects directly to the valve on the underside of the metal?
So my Atwood 8535 is not igniting. All the sequences seem to be working until it goes to light. You hear the ignite try to light rapidly but doesn’t. Doesn’t seem to be getting gas. As it’s trying to light my control board is flashing red rapidly the entire time it tries to ignite. What does that code indicate?
It is probably the burner. Easy fix buy it on Amazon
I have an atwood 8535 iv dclp that will light then shut off after about 10 sec repetedly,is this the sail switch or a burner or flame sensor problem?
It will be a sail switch or high limit switch. I would lean towards the sail switch.
Need some help here so I did check the sail switch and limit switch with multimeter like in first video and both are working. I turn on the heater and it just blows cold air no heat not sure if it’s not igniting I do here a click a little after the blower comes on and the click comes back again few times but no heat at all. Could it be the ignitor itself or gas line or could it even be the Thermostat that’s not working properly. The heater was working on the unit prior and was working fine all of a sudden just stopped working and only blew cool air
Anyone who can help me out point me to direction go now since I know both switches are working
Nice video! My camper heater won't fire up, but does not show any beep codes. What should I be looking for? There is propane, hot water heater and stove work. Thanks
hi, i have the same problem, could you tell me how you fixed your? Thank you!
@@paulkaisrik8617 Hi, I put a new furnace burner and electrode kit. Check your model heater to get the right one. It fired right up and works perfect now. Sorry, I just saw this.
@@michaelraffaghello1895 thank you for the info.
i have a afds20121 atwood furnace. if i turn the thermostat to its highest setting thats when it turns on. it wont heat and only runs for about 20 seconds then turns off.. we never use the furnace except maybe 4 times out of 3 years. once it shuts off i go over and adjust temp to lowest and then to highest and it works for 20 sconds again. Also will do the same if i flip the reset switch to off and then back on. So im not sure what it is. Sail switch is what ive read. there is no water anywhere but blower only runs for 20 seconds and then its done...any suggestions?
also at the top from the motor a red and 2 blue wires and a black wire is what comes out....the black wire isnt attached to anything and hasnt been that i know of as its just sitting there with a wire exposed. ive hooked it to ground/or metal just in case and still does the same.
On my other rv Atwood 8525 I get no electrode snapping n I changed the electrod n same no snapping to ignite 🤷
I have a Atwood / HydroFlame Furnace Model 8535-II
It runs fine until the outside temp drops to 30 Fahrenheit. At 30f the blower just runs and runs without igniting the burner, that is until I turn off the thermostat and back on and it usually turns on the furnace. Any ideas?
With out testing. I would start with gas pressure might be to low.
Hi i just replaced the furnace motor and 6 hours later its doing the same thing . Can hear power going to the motor but wont turn. What is my problem know other than probably needing another motor
Sounds like the power relay on the control board is not closing all the way I would suggest a new board.
I noticed you located the sail witch from the two divets. How in the world do you take out the sail switch?
You have to take the fan shroud off
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 Thanks for the super fast reply!
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 I got to it and tested the sail switch. Used some canned air to clean it too. The problem I am having it that the heater goes through one heating cycle, cools down, and the fan keeps keeps going way after two minutes. Any recommendations?
My furnace is throwing #1 code but my fan motor is not coming on at all I checked the sail switch it tested fine. Would the high circuit switch cause no fan at all or should I be more concerned with the board thank you.
That is a low input Voltage code. Check your fuses in you converter if your plugged in as well check your battery.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 converter is running im on shore power with new battery. Reset switch on furnace is ok
@@MultiCandyman1 I'm having the same issue, what's the easiest way to eliminate that its not the thermostat? in the video he jumps blue wires twice????? thanks
It was my motor
Could you steer me in a good direction. I have no blower or ignition in my furnace. I tested the sail switch. I tested the on of switch. I sent 12 volts to the fan and that works. I have power and ground to the furnace itself. I have power to the board. I have no blinking lights or lights at all, I have no ignition or fan. The only thing I haven't tried was bypass the thermostat to see if that kicks the furnace on. I think I have a bad board. Any advice?
Sounds like the relay on the board quit working. Is very common.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 that's kind of what I was thinking. I'm no expert on these things. Tomorrow I'm gonna check continuity from the thermostat making sure that it's commanding the unit to run. At that point I'll bypass the thermostat to the unit and use a power probe to power the unit and supply ground. At that time I'll check power at the blower output on the board. If I have no power at the blower output and thermostat is bypassed I can condemn the board as bad? Than the next question is where can I get a fair price on these boards dometic wants 175$
@@gdejackmo so I would put in a board made by dinosaur they are a more robust board.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 alrighty I'll check them out.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062
Thanks for your help. Today I bypassed the thermostat and it the furnace kicked on. So I went up to the thermostat itself and that wire had power of 12 volts. I disconnected the furnace wire at the thermostat and than removed the ground at the thermostat. At that time I touched them together and I had the furnace run. I now know I have a solid connection from the furnace to the thermostat. So tomorrow I'll install a new thermostat and see if they restores normal operation.
Your videos helped me and I took some notes. I found the positive thermostat wire and found the ground thermostat wires. I made the cut in them. However on repair I used opposite male and female connectors so if I ever need to do a diagnosis on the road I can just swap connectors. I did the same for the high pressure switch so I can just back probe them. Thanks again!
on mine every step works except the solenoids clicking open. I replaced board as well as checking sail witch and the spark even clicks
Check the ohms of each solenoid.
Should be 30 to 50 Ohms.
Yes it 40 each one.
It does run through all steps except there seems to be like a quick 7 v to the solenoids
It could be the burner. I took mine out and it was completely broken. That would cause it to click and still not light.
the one blue wire goes up to the thermostat where does the other blue one go?
Goes through the proving circuit
My blower would never come on, direct power to motor would turn it on so blower works. Replaced my board still nothing happens. I connect thermostat wires and the board blinks one time and thats it..... nothing happens???
For what it's worth, those of us who have a soldering iron, a little patience, and a desoldering wick or desoldering bulb, can buy 10 of the relays for $19.99 online.
I mean I realize buying a dinosaur board would actually be better, but that's a dollar versus 20 or less.
Thanks for your time and effort posting this video ,would you know where I could get a new or used blower housing for that same Atwood furnace I need both parts {Atwood # 37605 +#37606 }
Thank you
Not sure about used.
Mine has yellow red white and two blues what is white wire for
Make and model of furnace
How do I get the sail switch out?
Will do a better break down video so you can see how.
I have an Atwood furnace my problem is it runs for 5 or 6 minutes then shuts down before it gets to the set temperature.
Sounds like the t stat anticipator is faulty.
Voluuuuume
Yes I know was some of the first ones I made. Going to redo with more info here sometime.
Volume was too low had to back up numerous times still not clear. Buy a remote mike if your going to make this a carrier!
My buddy's rv the exhaust stinks and has soot coming out
PLEASE PUT THE COMPLETEMODELNUMBER OF THE FURNACE YOU ARE WORKING ON FOR EACH VIDEO
My furnace will run for 10 minutes and then the heat STOPS. The fan continues to run but he HEAT stops....WHATSUP?
I am assuming it is an Atwood or hydro flame
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 Yes, Atwood AFMD35121 When testing it I removed some of the duct-work and monitored the heat being put out. The heat was normal for about 8 minutes, but then it seemed to me the heat was EXTREMELY HOT (but maybe i was wrong, and remember I had removed the duct-work so the heat was coming straight out of the unit), shortly after that the heat stopped but the fan continued to blow right on and on. I could then hear the gas solenoid valve click but I could not hear the ticking from the electrode. Can these boards get "hot" or something and kick out? If it was the board would the entire unit shut off?
@@cblair0608 what is happening i believe is you furnace is cycling it is running on the high limit switch there is not enough air flow and it is getting hot
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 Well....there doesnt appear to be any restriction. I have checked everything. I might add this furnace is UNDER the refrigerator. This furnace is not accessible outside, you have to remove the panel from under the fridge to access it. When I test ran it I had removed the front cover. Am I missing something? It had 3 duct works attached to the front (approximately 3" in diameter) and then another one on the side which was approximately 2" in diameter. Is one of these the "intake"? Remember, when I tested this unit I had ALL 3 of the front ducts removed as well as the 2" duct on the side so EVERYTHING should have been receiving ample air flow.
@@cblair0608 being in that area yes if the heat can’t be taken away it will pop the high limit open. The limit switch could also be getting weak from being run so close to its opening temperature. It’s a hard thing to diagnose without actually being there. But I am pretty sure the way you describe what’s going on it’s that the heat can’t be taken away and it’s hitting the limit switch shutting off the gas then cooling off enough and it re lights and keeps going on that cycle until it reaches your set temp of the room or it is shut off.
I couldn't hear shit. I'm more confused now.