Your demonstration and instructions were awesome. I never did anything like this before and you made it very clear. It took me longer than your 8 and half minutes but its done. Keep posting. I may need you again someday for something else. Soooo clear and a very calm and welcoming voice.
Excellent walkthrough. A couple of notes for others taking on this project: 1) It's going to take a long T20 to get to the screws through the long shaft. You may have to buy a special extension, or a long T20 bit. 2) You may have bought a pressure switch kit that does not include a new hose and new clamps. You can reuse the old hose, but make sure you've got replacement hose clamps before you start, because the old ones will be cut off and can't be reused.
Excellent video, a big improvement on the instructions which came with the switch. It does gloss over the special tools you will need: in addition to a #2 or #3 Phillips, you'll need a T10 Torx to remove the manifold cover, and a T20 for several screws. The T20 needs to be long - at least 4-1/4" clear from the tip to the handle or socket, and the T10 needs to be 1-1/4" minimum. I tried to use a short Torx bit with a bit extender, but the access tunnels to the screws are very small, and my bit extender would not fit into them. The end nipper mentioned is also essential if you use the typical crimp-type hose clamp. Thank you!
Great job, You saved me time and money! The screw for the regulator cover is a torx 10, the others are T-20 and your going to need a loooong one get one of them out.
Just finished replacing the pressure switch on my compressor, great instructions, you need a T20 and a T10 screwdriver Torx, The T20 need to reach deep for one of the screws and the T10 is for the manifold cover.
THANK YOU ! I could not have done this from the directions that were included with the pressure switch. Your video made this an easy job! Thanks for making such a clear, concise step by step video!
Excellent video. I managed to reach the deep set screw by putting my T20 screwdriver in a vice and tapping the handle as if I were removing it. At a point just before the handle came off I stopped tapping it. It lengthened the T20 just enough to reach the screw. The instructions that came with the part are worthless IMHO. The video got me thru it. Fast shipping too!! Happy camper here…
My Porter Cable C2002 was blowing the pressure relief valve at 150psi before it was shutting off. I thought it was the pressure relief valve so I bought a new one (Amazon) and replaced it following this video. Well... that didn't fix the issue. I did a little more digging and found out that the relief valve isn't supposed to blow until 167 psi (spec etched into the valve). I removed the valve, cleaned with solvent, oiled it up good, and reinstalled. That was it. So anyone who has this model compressor and the PRV is blowing before it shuts off, check for a faulty PRV before just going out and buying a new pressure switch. Amazon)
This worked! And it didn't take me much longer than it took in the video. i did have to run up to Harbor Freight to get a Torx 20 long enough for the recessed housing screw. This saved my Porter Cable from the land fill!
Perfect. Mine just started doing this (running until the release value would blow). So happy I can fix it because I really like that compressor! Thank you!
Hello. I have a question: there are two clocks on this compressor, what clock should I check when the pressure switch doesn't work? At what level should I turn it off?
I bought a 2-pack of these pressure switches on Amazon this week for $13.90. Just search Amazon for "Air Pressure Switch 150 PSI Pressure Switch 120 PSI Pressure Switch Air Compressor" and it will come up. Can't beat that price; It leaves me with a spare switch in case it fails again, and 2-day shipping was free with Amazon Prime. These two switches don't come with an air hose, so reuse your existing hose. It is not necessary to remove your hose from the manifold at all. You can remove the hose from the old pressure switch by working within the confines of the housing. Slide the housing all the way back to the manifold to get as much working room as possible. I used a couple of small flat blade screwdrivers to spread the hoky hose clamp open. That way you don't damage the hose end by bending the hose clamp back and forth. Then i replaced the clamp with a real screw hose clamp. Easy job, took about an hour and 20 minutes. Thank you for the instructions, they were easy to follow!
Great video thanks for the help. This fixed mine. My only criticism would be maybe you could’ve mentioned the different size torx tools needed. I had to buy them once I got into it but otherwise great explanation on everything.
Excellent instructional video. It would be extremely helpful to state the type and size of fastener heads in the video. IE, remove the manifold cover by loosening the screw with a 1/16th inch hex key.
Very helpful. Two observations... 1) You can determine if you need to cut the hose as well as the length to cut by simply comparing the new hose to the old hose prior to reassembly. 2) Every time I need to replace a part on something, the part that I need to replace is the thing that came down the assembly line first and the rest of the G-D product was built around it. While this isn't a complex repair (once you see how it's done), it does follow that rule. If I had to replace the handle I guarantee that I would have had to remove the frick'n pressure switch to get to it.
Greatly appreciate the information. Detailed but easy to follow instructions. I'm ordering the pressure switch now from Amazon. I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks.
I took mine apart about a year ago and finally ordered the part and forgot how it went back in wires ect.... It worked like a champ after install with this video. Thank you.
Thank you for this. I followed the video for the whole process and changed the pressure switch with no problem. Works great. Really appreciate this thorough video!
Excellent video. I followed the video and it now works normally again. Much appreciated. Would help if they mentioned you need Torx and mini-torx for the screws except for two large Phillips and one flathead screw. Also, if you order just a pressure switch, mine did not have the tube attached and I had to use very small hose clamps on the tubing. Pretty easy fix.
Is the tool you used a Torx #20? This works for my P&C compressor, unfortunately the driver is not long enough for one of the screws so now I'm stuck. Need to go to Lowe's or Home Depot to buy one like yours I guess.
This is a great fix-it video. I would add 2 things: o Many of the screws take a Torx T-20 bit with a long (6") shaft or extension because they're deeply recessed. o There are 8 anti vibration rubber "bumpers" - 4 at the stand-off feet (rectangular) + 4 inside the pump housing (square). Make sure all of these are in place as you reassemble, not lying around on your workbench table, or you'll do this job twice, as I did :{
I had to cut the bottom part of the handle on my Torx screwdriver off in order to get the shaft long enough to reach. I hadn't ever used it before so it wasn't a great sacrifice.
My handle screws are flush so I don't need the long torx shaft. I have a Model C2002 Type 8. I'm glad because I was about to go out and buy a new set (now I'll have to find a different excuse!)
Note the regulator cover is T10 and the rest are T20 screws. Once the screws are removed you slide the case to the right and off the brackets. The final 3 screws are all T20 but that bottom Right screw is about 10 inches deep, so a regular screw driver wont reach it. Gonna cost around $50 to get the tools and parts to fix a $99 tool that has an expiration date printed on it for the tank. Probably better to buy a new unit.
It worked! Thanks for the great video. Like someone mentioned earlier you can get a set of long T-handle Torx at Harbor Freight for only $13. There is a “7SV” and a “6SV” version of this part. Be sure you find the parts-list for your particular model and verify.
Thank you for that . I think a bit more could be done to inform your watchers as to the type of TOOLS needed to remove the convoluted array of fastener types . I tried fillips, torques and the Allen wrenches I had available , to no avail . A hack saw finally did it LOL
Thanks Sheldon. There on sale for $99 and I can't see not just getting a new one by now. I did get over 10 years from the last one that broke so I'm good.
@@thomasblawn5397 Gotta be one of three options. The new switch is bad, the switch not installed correctly, or the pressure switch releasing early. Insure you are getting to 150 PSI on your tank pressure gauge. If not it is the release valve.
@@jamesvanriper6334 Replaced pressure shut off valve as per video. Also replaced pressure relief valve just in case. Still won’t shut off at 150 and blows relief valve. Any suggestions??
great video. I replaced the bad switch. Put in a new one. No problem. Turned on compressor. Still does not turn off at 150 psi. Other than a bad replacement part, any ideas what else could be wrong?
changed too pressure switches did not fix problem. Found some green gunk the feeder pipe from the manifold to the rubber hose connecting to the pressure switch. Cleaned out the green gunk with a large paper clip. Unit now turns off properly again! Air pressure was not getting to the switch because of the gunk. Should have checked this first. But I just did not think that anything could be in the pipe that could hold off the 150psi that was being supplied. the green gunk had the consistency of wax and was really jammed in there.
Thanks for this tutorial. It was helpful and I think I followed it to a T. However when I went to test it it did not shut off at pressure and forced the air bleed to open to reduce pressure. Could it be a bad switch? It's a genuine Porter part. Maybe something with the connections inside got missed? Any suggestions? I did notice that I did not squeeze the clamp tight enough and some air is leaking out but this is fixable. Thanks
Same exact instructions for the Bostitch pancake compressor. Looks like the same motor. different plastic and different tank is all. This oil less compressor puts my oiled compressor to shame when it’s cold 🥶 outside.
Exelente vídeo y felicitaciones me sirve mucho el vídeo ya que tengo un compresor igualito y quiero aprender mucho de él ya que me salió muy buena máquina .
great job. This was really informative. I have to replace manifold (plastic disk inside OEM cracked) but got one that is too small though it was supposed to fit. Can you help. Porter Cable 2.6
My portercable runs without cutting off. It will not even bump the intake dial to move at all. Won’t fill enough to even move the needle. This air compressor is quite old. I would say it is at least 15 years old. Is it worth fixing or is a new one the best route?
Mine is doing something strange. When it pressures up and turns off it leaks air from what seems like the head. But if I cycle it on and off several times it will hold pressure. I have replaced both head gaskets the tube seal and the drain valve. Is this a pressure switch problem?
No luck for me, changed the pressure switch as described in this video and it still won't automatically cut off. It gets to 150 psi and stays on and at that point I hear air start coming out of what I guess is some type of safety valve. Anyone have any ideas?
could you tell me if there is a filter on the incoming air side or if they're supposed to be one or should I add one. also my compressor seems like it's starving for electricity when it runs running very sluggish I get 126 when I test the receptacle it has blown breaker a couple times on different receptacles different breakers. this compressor is damn near brand new don't even use a few times. Porter cables on my shit list. any information would help thanks
This is great, but I have a problem. The part is 30 bucks, The compressor is 99 bucks at lowes. Do you know where i can find the part for at most 10 bucks? If not, I'm just buying a new compressor. I mean, WOW a third of the price for the part doesn't seem right to me. Also can the switch it self be repaired or cleaned?
Hi Ryan, unfortunately I have not seen this type of OEM pressure switch for less money anywhere. The price of the N003307SV Pressure Switch is set by the manufacturer, and that is what we have to offer it to our customers for.
Mine was working fine ,aired up a bike tire than quit in the middle of airing up second tire, just quit,its at least 15 years old, porter cable 135psi 6 gallons?? any help appreciated.
The compressor should shut off when 150 lbs is reached on the tank gage (the one on the left). If it goes above 150 lbs the pressure relief valve will go off and release the air. If the pressure relief valve goes off before it reaches 150 lbs, then the pressure relief valve is no good. If the pressure relief valve goes off when it goes above 150 lbs, then the pressure shut off switch needs to be replaced.
I have a slight leak where the hose from the pressure switch meets the manifold. Can I just change tighten the clamp by the manifold or is there a bigger problem existing? If so what would I need to replace? I have a Porter Cable C2002 Type 8. Thanks
The pressure switch on these models connects to the manifold with a rubber hose. It could be the clamp has come loose letting air escape. I would try either tightening the clamp a bit more or maybe replace the clamp.
I have a 6gl. Craftsman compressor very similar to the one on the video. The problem I have the compressor continues to run until the safety valve opens, i have replaced the safety valve still same issue. I took it a part and tested the pressure switch with a volt meter and did a continuity test and it showed zero. Would that indicate the switch is good or can it be defective, would like your opinion before i order from the eparts store, thank you.
The pressure switch is typically the first thing to check when this problem occurs. Double check your model number before ordering. The common part number for this type of compressor, both Porter Cable and Craftsman is N003307SV www.ereplacementparts.com/pressure-switch-p-225922.html
Pressure Switch (1 Hose Clamp Included) [N003307SV] for ... www.ereplacementparts.com Buy a Pressure Switch (1 Hose Clamp Included) [N003307SV] for your Power Tool - Genuine OEM replacement part, this item is sold individually.A Pressure Swit...
As of new we have 24 of these in stock and can quickly get the part shipped to you.
I recently picked up a kobalt compressor and it wasn’t shutting off so I bought a new pressure switch and it is still not shutting off. Can anyone give me a clue of what to look at next. I honestly thought that would be the fix. It just has two white wires so I tried switching them and still no change. The switch I took off was a 120/150 the switch I put on is a 110/145. HELP!!!
In this case I would look to the condition of the cylinder and piston. Determine what the compressors shut off pressure should be. On most compressors this will be advertised right on the tank. 125 psi, 150 psi, etc. Now watch the tank pressure gauge as the compressor is running. Does it ever reach the specified tank pressure? If not the piston and cylinder have likely worn to the point that the pump no longer has the compression to fill the tank to the specified pressure. The piston and cylinder will need to be serviced. -Mark
Hi Emily, thank you for your question! Not all compressors use oil. If you send us the model number for your compressor, we can determine if it needs oil. If it does need oil, the first step would be to run the compressor for a few minutes in order to heat it up. This will allow the oil to drain more easily. Then, remove the fill cap to allow air to flow into the pump, and this will allow the oil to drain more easily as well. Then, with some sort of receptacle placed below the drain cap, unscrew the cap and allow the oil to flow out. After the oil has drained, you can replace the drain cap, and fill your oil tank back up. Be sure to consult your owner's manual to determine how much oil your compressor needs. Some compressors will have a dip stick that allows you to determine how much oil as well. Replace the fill cap, and your oil is changed! I hope this helps, and good luck with your repair!
Your demonstration and instructions were awesome. I never did anything like this before and you made it very clear. It took me longer than your 8 and half minutes but its done. Keep posting. I may need you again someday for something else. Soooo clear and a very calm and welcoming voice.
Excellent walkthrough. A couple of notes for others taking on this project:
1) It's going to take a long T20 to get to the screws through the long shaft. You may have to buy a special extension, or a long T20 bit.
2) You may have bought a pressure switch kit that does not include a new hose and new clamps. You can reuse the old hose, but make sure you've got replacement hose clamps before you start, because the old ones will be cut off and can't be reused.
Excellent video, a big improvement on the instructions which came with the switch. It does gloss over the special tools you will need: in addition to a #2 or #3 Phillips, you'll need a T10 Torx to remove the manifold cover, and a T20 for several screws. The T20 needs to be long - at least 4-1/4" clear from the tip to the handle or socket, and the T10 needs to be 1-1/4" minimum. I tried to use a short Torx bit with a bit extender, but the access tunnels to the screws are very small, and my bit extender would not fit into them. The end nipper mentioned is also essential if you use the typical crimp-type hose clamp. Thank you!
Thanks for adding the details about the special tools used in the video. I was wondering about those.
Excellent addition of details. Thanks, brother.
This video was an excellent guide for someone unfamiliar with the inner workings of a compressor. It was comprehensive and easy to follow. Well done!
I wish all DIY videos were produced like this
Great job, You saved me time and money! The screw for the regulator cover is a torx 10, the others are T-20 and your going to need a loooong one get one of them out.
Just finished replacing the pressure switch on my compressor, great instructions, you need a T20 and a T10 screwdriver Torx, The T20 need to reach deep for one of the screws and the T10 is for the manifold cover.
Thanks for that info. I was wondering and preparing myself for "trial and error" until I figured it out.
I had to grind handle off of my screwdriver to reach one of them. Poor design :(
The video should have explained what special tools you need, FAIL.
THANK YOU ! I could not have done this from the directions that were included with the pressure switch. Your video made this an easy job!
Thanks for making such a clear, concise step by step video!
Excellent video. I managed to reach the deep set screw by putting my T20 screwdriver in a vice and tapping the handle as if I were removing it. At a point just before the handle came off I stopped tapping it. It lengthened the T20 just enough to reach the screw. The instructions that came with the part are worthless IMHO. The video got me thru it. Fast shipping too!! Happy camper here…
My Porter Cable C2002 was blowing the pressure relief valve at 150psi before it was shutting off. I thought it was the pressure relief valve so I bought a new one (Amazon) and replaced it following this video. Well... that didn't fix the issue. I did a little more digging and found out that the relief valve isn't supposed to blow until 167 psi (spec etched into the valve). I removed the valve, cleaned with solvent, oiled it up good, and reinstalled. That was it. So anyone who has this model compressor and the PRV is blowing before it shuts off, check for a faulty PRV before just going out and buying a new pressure switch.
Amazon)
This worked! And it didn't take me much longer than it took in the video. i did have to run up to Harbor Freight to get a Torx 20 long enough for the recessed housing screw. This saved my Porter Cable from the land fill!
Perfect. Mine just started doing this (running until the release value would blow). So happy I can fix it because I really like that compressor! Thank you!
Hello. I have a question: there are two clocks on this compressor, what clock should I check when the pressure switch doesn't work? At what level should I turn it off?
I bought a 2-pack of these pressure switches on Amazon this week for $13.90. Just search Amazon for "Air Pressure Switch 150 PSI Pressure Switch 120 PSI Pressure Switch Air Compressor" and it will come up. Can't beat that price; It leaves me with a spare switch in case it fails again, and 2-day shipping was free with Amazon Prime. These two switches don't come with an air hose, so reuse your existing hose. It is not necessary to remove your hose from the manifold at all. You can remove the hose from the old pressure switch by working within the confines of the housing. Slide the housing all the way back to the manifold to get as much working room as possible. I used a couple of small flat blade screwdrivers to spread the hoky hose clamp open. That way you don't damage the hose end by bending the hose clamp back and forth. Then i replaced the clamp with a real screw hose clamp. Easy job, took about an hour and 20 minutes. Thank you for the instructions, they were easy to follow!
Great video thanks for the help. This fixed mine. My only criticism would be maybe you could’ve mentioned the different size torx tools needed. I had to buy them once I got into it but otherwise great explanation on everything.
Excellent instructional video. It would be extremely helpful to state the type and size of fastener heads in the video. IE, remove the manifold cover by loosening the screw with a 1/16th inch hex key.
Mine were T20s for anyone reading this.
My t10 is also ten inches deep?!?
Por eso me encanta el internet, no sabía cómo cambiar esa pieza, gracias infinitas!!!
Really good and clear instructions, nicely delivered. Thank you.
Now, if I could only find the appropriate kit...
Very helpful. Two observations...
1) You can determine if you need to cut the hose as well as the length to cut by simply comparing the new hose to the old hose prior to reassembly.
2) Every time I need to replace a part on something, the part that I need to replace is the thing that came down the assembly line first and the rest of the G-D product was built around it. While this isn't a complex repair (once you see how it's done), it does follow that rule. If I had to replace the handle I guarantee that I would have had to remove the frick'n pressure switch to get to it.
Great video! Easy to understand, made the job of replacing the pressure switch Easy. Thank You.
Great video! Back to a quiet-ish workshop!
Excellent instructions, worked like a charm !
Greatly appreciate the information. Detailed but easy to follow instructions. I'm ordering the pressure switch now from Amazon. I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks.
Thanks for the vIdeo. Helped me fix my air compressor. You did a great job explaining the process step by step. Great video!
Thank you very much. I just followed step by step and hurrey, issue is resolved.
I took mine apart about a year ago and finally ordered the part and forgot how it went back in wires ect.... It worked like a champ after install with this video. Thank you.
Where do u order it?
Ordered the part. Worked like a charm!!!
Fantastic, Sandy! That's great to hear!
Thank you for this. I followed the video for the whole process and changed the pressure switch with no problem. Works great. Really appreciate this thorough video!
Excellent video. I followed the video and it now works normally again. Much appreciated. Would help if they mentioned you need Torx and mini-torx for the screws except for two large Phillips and one flathead screw. Also, if you order just a pressure switch, mine did not have the tube attached and I had to use very small hose clamps on the tubing. Pretty easy fix.
Good tutorial! Exactly what I needed to make the repair. Thanks.
Would be nice to know what size torx bit would be needed......
Is the tool you used a Torx #20? This works for my P&C compressor, unfortunately the driver is not long enough for one of the screws so now I'm stuck. Need to go to Lowe's or Home Depot to buy one like yours I guess.
This was a very well done video. Thank you.
This is a great fix-it video. I would add 2 things:
o Many of the screws take a Torx T-20 bit with a long (6") shaft or extension because they're deeply recessed.
o There are 8 anti vibration rubber "bumpers" - 4 at the stand-off feet (rectangular) + 4 inside the pump housing (square). Make sure all of these are in place as you reassemble, not lying around on your workbench table, or you'll do this job twice, as I did :{
I had to cut the bottom part of the handle on my Torx screwdriver off in order to get the shaft long enough to reach. I hadn't ever used it before so it wasn't a great sacrifice.
My handle screws are flush so I don't need the long torx shaft. I have a Model C2002 Type 8. I'm glad because I was about to go out and buy a new set (now I'll have to find a different excuse!)
Excellent "How to" video. Thanks!
Muy buen video. Gracias!! Realmente me guió paso a paso.
Note the regulator cover is T10 and the rest are T20 screws. Once the screws are removed you slide the case to the right and off the brackets. The final 3 screws are all T20 but that bottom Right screw is about 10 inches deep, so a regular screw driver wont reach it.
Gonna cost around $50 to get the tools and parts to fix a $99 tool that has an expiration date printed on it for the tank. Probably better to buy a new unit.
unless you have all of those tools already....
It worked! Thanks for the great video. Like someone mentioned earlier you can get a set of long T-handle Torx at Harbor Freight for only $13.
There is a “7SV” and a “6SV” version of this part. Be sure you find the parts-list for your particular model and verify.
I got same problem like the video. I follow the instructions and i fix mys thanks. Easy and clear to understand
Nice job, thank-you. Saved me possibly hours...
Thank you for that . I think a bit more could be done to inform your watchers as to the type of TOOLS needed to remove the convoluted array of fastener types . I tried fillips, torques and the Allen wrenches I had available , to no avail . A hack saw finally did it LOL
Great video! It made the job easy to do. My compressor works properly once more. Thanks.
Thanks Sheldon. There on sale for $99 and I can't see not just getting a new one by now. I did get over 10 years from the last one that broke so I'm good.
Thank you soooo much sir....you save me a lot of pennies
My compressor keeps turning on and off . is that an issue due to the pressure sensor?
I ordered the part from you after watching the video. But the compressor still won't cut off. It goes up and up still. Any suggestions?
What type of screw is the manifold cover?
thank you for you video help me to fix my problem
Great tutorial I replaced my pressure valve but my compressor still won’t turn off
Hey Ismael. Same thing happened to me. Did you ever find out what was wrong?
@@thomasblawn5397 Gotta be one of three options. The new switch is bad, the switch not installed correctly, or the pressure switch releasing early. Insure you are getting to 150 PSI on your tank pressure gauge. If not it is the release valve.
@@jamesvanriper6334 Replaced pressure shut off valve as per video. Also replaced pressure relief valve just in case. Still won’t shut off at 150 and blows relief valve. Any suggestions??
@@handydoc2531 Sounds like another bad switch or the wire connection is bad.
The screws he is talking about are not visible...are they Phillips head, star, what? What tool does he use? Beats me.
nice porter cable compresssor pressure
Is there a video that goes through all the steps to troubleshoot a compressor that just won't build pressure? Thanks.
it looks a little complicated for me. I hate to go buy a new compressor but i cant find a shop to fix this one
great video. I replaced the bad switch. Put in a new one. No problem. Turned on compressor. Still does not turn off at 150 psi. Other than a bad replacement part, any ideas what else could be wrong?
What kind of pliers did you use to remove the hose? They curved at the end.
Thank you very much. The repair was perfect.
Installed NEW pressure regulator and regulator switch, compressor goes up to 150 psi and will NOT shut off, any idea what I missed or what is wrong?
You have replace the pressure switch and that should do it
changed too pressure switches did not fix problem. Found some green gunk the feeder pipe from the manifold to the rubber hose connecting to the pressure switch. Cleaned out the green gunk with a large paper clip. Unit now turns off properly again! Air pressure was not getting to the switch because of the gunk. Should have checked this first. But I just did not think that anything could be in the pipe that could hold off the 150psi that was being supplied. the green gunk had the consistency of wax and was really jammed in there.
Thanks for the confidence. 😉
Any videos on how to replace the plastic motor cooling fan? I was able to remove a broken one, but still have to press on the new one.....
Thanks for this tutorial. It was helpful and I think I followed it to a T. However when I went to test it it did not shut off at pressure and forced the air bleed to open to reduce pressure. Could it be a bad switch? It's a genuine Porter part. Maybe something with the connections inside got missed? Any suggestions? I did notice that I did not squeeze the clamp tight enough and some air is leaking out but this is fixable. Thanks
Never mind. It's fine. Just tightened up the clamp around the sensor and it's working fine. Thank you again for posting this.
NIce job on the video.
Same exact instructions for the Bostitch pancake compressor. Looks like the same motor. different plastic and different tank is all. This oil less compressor puts my oiled compressor to shame when it’s cold 🥶 outside.
Exelente vídeo y felicitaciones me sirve mucho el vídeo ya que tengo un compresor igualito y quiero aprender mucho de él ya que me salió muy buena máquina .
great job. This was really informative. I have to replace manifold (plastic disk inside OEM cracked) but got one that is too small though it was supposed to fit. Can you help. Porter Cable 2.6
Beautiful detail. Thank you.
"Great Job!"
Thank you very much for this video. It was greatly appreciated!!!!
My portercable runs without cutting off. It will not even bump the intake dial to move at all. Won’t fill enough to even move the needle. This air compressor is quite old. I would say it is at least 15 years old. Is it worth fixing or is a new one the best route?
perfect, thank you
How much is the part and is this a good or bad compressor? Right now it's 60 dollars brand new at my local Tractor Supply down from 99 dollars.
Excellent!
Mine is doing something strange. When it pressures up and turns off it leaks air from what seems like the head. But if I cycle it on and off several times it will hold pressure. I have replaced both head gaskets the tube seal and the drain valve. Is this a pressure switch problem?
can i use to inflate 16.9-28 tyre (JCB backhoe loader rear tyre)?
No luck for me, changed the pressure switch as described in this video and it still won't automatically cut off. It gets to 150 psi and stays on and at that point I hear air start coming out of what I guess is some type of safety valve. Anyone have any ideas?
what size bit fits bottom r hole on housing
When cutting the hose, remember that the pump has to slide sideways to be reattached, so a little extra is a good idea. I almost cut mine too short 🙄
could you tell me if there is a filter on the incoming air side or if they're supposed to be one or should I add one. also my compressor seems like it's starving for electricity when it runs running very sluggish I get 126 when I test the receptacle it has blown breaker a couple times on different receptacles different breakers. this compressor is damn near brand new don't even use a few times. Porter cables on my shit list. any information would help thanks
This is great, but I have a problem. The part is 30 bucks, The compressor is 99 bucks at lowes. Do you know where i can find the part for at most 10 bucks? If not, I'm just buying a new compressor. I mean, WOW a third of the price for the part doesn't seem right to me. Also can the switch it self be repaired or cleaned?
Hi Ryan, unfortunately I have not seen this type of OEM pressure switch for less money anywhere. The price of the N003307SV Pressure Switch is set by the manufacturer, and that is what we have to offer it to our customers for.
Mine was working fine ,aired up a bike tire than quit in the middle of airing up second tire, just quit,its at least 15 years old, porter cable 135psi 6 gallons?? any help appreciated.
how to i replace the air in the tank that you drained in the begining
Anyone else notice that the yellow wire is going over the motor at 2:30 and under at 6:41?
Yea, I noticed that too. Don't think it matters much as long as the wire doesn't interfere with the motor.
My friend I need some advice my compressor only going to les than 20 psi can you help me out this issue thanks
Have you tried turning the black knob clockwise? It's the one at 0.48 that I am referring to.
Why can't Porter Cable just put decent parts in when the are manufactured?
I get that, but mine lasted fifteen years. I'm just glad it's only $15 to repair.
Where can I buy this part?
what causes the safety valve to go off as the tank is filling
The compressor should shut off when 150 lbs is reached on the tank gage (the one on the left). If it goes above 150 lbs the pressure relief valve will go off and release the air. If the pressure relief valve goes off before it reaches 150 lbs, then the pressure relief valve is no good. If the pressure relief valve goes off when it goes above 150 lbs, then the pressure shut off switch needs to be replaced.
I have a slight leak where the hose from the pressure switch meets the manifold. Can I just change tighten the clamp by the manifold or is there a bigger problem existing? If so what would I need to replace? I have a Porter Cable C2002 Type 8. Thanks
The pressure switch on these models connects to the manifold with a rubber hose. It could be the clamp has come loose letting air escape. I would try either tightening the clamp a bit more or maybe replace the clamp.
Smart flower
I have one and it runs fine- it builds up pressure just fine and turns its self off but nothing comes out- what’s up with that ?
I have the same exact problem
That’s great
I have a 6gl. Craftsman compressor very similar to the one on the video. The problem I have the compressor continues to run until the safety valve opens, i have replaced the safety valve still same issue. I took it a part and tested the pressure switch with a volt meter and did a continuity test and it showed zero. Would that indicate the switch is good or can it be defective, would like your opinion before i order from the eparts store, thank you.
The pressure switch is typically the first thing to check when this problem occurs. Double check your model number before ordering. The common part number for this type of compressor, both Porter Cable and Craftsman is N003307SV www.ereplacementparts.com/pressure-switch-p-225922.html
Pressure
Switch (1 Hose Clamp Included) [N003307SV] for ...
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Fix.com how much is the pressure switch please
Pay attention and do exactly what he says.
Make sure it's not plugged in.
Would have been good to mention what tools you’re using to do this. Why don’t they just make it so you can use a regular screwdriver? Guess why!
I recently picked up a kobalt compressor and it wasn’t shutting off so I bought a new pressure switch and it is still not shutting off. Can anyone give me a clue of what to look at next. I honestly thought that would be the fix. It just has two white wires so I tried switching them and still no change. The switch I took off was a 120/150 the switch I put on is a 110/145. HELP!!!
In this case I would look to the condition of the cylinder and piston. Determine what the compressors shut off pressure should be. On most compressors this will be advertised right on the tank. 125 psi, 150 psi, etc. Now watch the tank pressure gauge as the compressor is running. Does it ever reach the specified tank pressure? If not the piston and cylinder have likely worn to the point that the pump no longer has the compression to fill the tank to the specified pressure. The piston and cylinder will need to be serviced. -Mark
where do you order the parts?
You can order parts online www.ereplacementparts.com/ or call customer service at 1-877-346-4814 and we can place your online order for you.
I just did an Amazon search. Probably find it on Ebay too.
which size bit are the screws?
The screws that are in the housing and handle are Torx head screws. T-20.
And how can you change you're oil
Hi Emily, thank you for your question! Not all compressors use oil. If you send us the model number for your compressor, we can determine if it needs oil. If it does need oil, the first step would be to run the compressor for a few minutes in order to heat it up. This will allow the oil to drain more easily. Then, remove the fill cap to allow air to flow into the pump, and this will allow the oil to drain more easily as well. Then, with some sort of receptacle placed below the drain cap, unscrew the cap and allow the oil to flow out. After the oil has drained, you can replace the drain cap, and fill your oil tank back up. Be sure to consult your owner's manual to determine how much oil your compressor needs. Some compressors will have a dip stick that allows you to determine how much oil as well. Replace the fill cap, and your oil is changed! I hope this helps, and good luck with your repair!
my air compresor dont stop work...
This guy sounds just like the caller from the Mr. Obvious show....for any Bob & Tom fans.
Does it need oil
Emily Martinez oil para q o q
Screw all that I’ll buy a new one.