Pressure Switch Replacement For Air Compressors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2024
- This video explains the different styles and types of Pressure Switches available, what to look for when replacing and what specs you need to know. Click below to purchase a replacement pressure switch for your air compressor unit. www.aircompressorpartsonline.c...
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I love the fact that you don't refer to the switch in the middle. ( the type I have) I also love that you give all the information needed if you just listen.🤓 I know that you saved me at least $100. Knowledge is priceless. Thanks.
Excellent information.
My Harbor Freight air compressor burned out after 13 years of service. I disassembled the switch and found it was melted inside where the contacts are. I replaced it with the red push/pull switch and voila!, it's back in service for a heck of a lot cheaper than another air compressor.
Were is the check valve on my hausfeld compressor?
Good information!
Hi. Very informative video. Thanks
I have a new Quincy QT-54 two stage. I need to re-route the unloader valve to go up to the exit port of the compressor. It’s a 90 deg elbow like you show but it’s a compression fitting for a 1/4” copper tube. My flexible hose that I want to attach is 1/4” NPT and it doesn’t fit the threads on the unloader valve. It looks like your standard 1/8” MPT, but my 1/8 x 1/4 NPT adapter won’t thread on.
Maybe the unloader elbow can be removed and replaced with a NPT fitting?
I’m not sure what my options are.
Can you help?
Thanks,
Paul
I know this was made a long time ago. I have a fairly new AEG silenced 3hp 60l air compressor. The pressure regulator looks live the one with red push pull on/off switch with small hole beside red knob. I am in Australia and disabled so it’s quiet difficult to take it to get fixed. I’m told to small hole with Phillips head screw is for adjusting cutout pressure ( currently at 145psi. Winding that screw anti-clockwise does nothing. Have turned it between 3 and 4 full turns with no effect. Don’t want to go too far and have it fall apart in there. Also no obvious way to pull the cover off. Am quite familiar with square D switches on water pressure pumps, but this has me stumped. Thanks in advance
@Air Compressor Parts Online My pressure switch looks similar to your in the video in the centre with the red circular push down pull up switch and black plastic casing, can that type be adjusted? are some preset
It says on the casing;
PULL SWITCH NE MA (Spa)
20 AMP
380V MAX
You should put a link to your website in the description. Now I gotta go type it in manually;)
You're right...fixed!
I've got a Craftsman 33 gallon 110 volt vertical compressor. My pressure switch failed this morning. The one in the upper right hand corner looks very similar to mine. Did Craftsman use those as well?
We just experienced classic pressure switch failure. Our shop compressor started running up to 150 psi and lowing the relief valve. It is a Craftsman 60 gallon model 919.165600. Do you carry Pressure switches for these compressors?
thinking about buying a 60 gal compressor but dont like plastic part at switch husky and sanborn could it be change out for all metal one?
Good video. I have a compressor with a pressure switch like the "import" version, with the push/pull switch. I haven't had a real good look at it yet, but there may be an issue with the air bleed side of it. The compressor turns off just fine, but when it tries to start, the motor just hums, like it's stalled.
I think it may be that the bleed switch doesn't bleed all the air pressure out, not enabling the compressor motor to start, or that indeed the start capacitor on the motor isn't the correct one, not enabling the start windings of the motor to develop enough torque to start against the pressure.
Also, I'm in New Zealand, where we have 50Hz 240V line voltage.
Would it be possible, with the switch I have, to set the restart pressure lower, so that it actually starts?
It could be the check valve also.
on your most popular Condor pressure switch, how do you disconnect the tube that goes into the 90deg unloader?
You mention that you push it in and it lock, but not how to remove it. Thanks for any hint.
Can these switches be used for controling water steam pressure coming out of boiler at about 5 bar and 120 degree celsius?
4:00 The thing i’m finding very frustrating, is that I can’t find the right size of compression fitting to replace the unloader tube. I have a pretty old compressor and the tube was aluminum and I broke it while I was replacing the pressure switch. Now I am having a devil of a time trying to find the right size tube and compression fitting.
I have an IR compressor with a square d switch in it which is leaking from the underside (unfortunately not the threads but above that on the big connector). After looking the thing over I found a bunch of info stamped/printer under the cover but can't find anything about it on google. Is there a way you can help me decipher what I have and what I need?
Compressor: 240v 5hp ?stages 60 or 80 gal
Power Switch:
class: 9013 ser. B
Type: FXG13 S101
Form: M1X1
on off 125psi
2 pole rating
Volts - amps fl/lr
120-20/120
240-15/90
AceBoy2099:
The SquareD switch you're describing sounds very common. From what I can tell from you description the cut-out pressure is 125 PSI. If this is the case, then the Square D model# W4203 pressure switch would probably work for you. You can find it on our site here: www.aircompressorpartsonline.com/square-pressure-switches-single-port-w4203-pressure-switch-p-15233.html.
Basically, you want to match up the PSI rating (cut-in and cut-out pressures), the type of Unloader Valve, the type of manifold fitting and the amp rating.
The W4203 is a two-pole pressure switch and cuts-in at 95 PSI and cuts out at 125 PSI (typical for a single-stage compressor), has a straight, brass unloader valve with a 1/4" compression fitting coming out from the bottom, and is rated at 15 amps. It has a single 1/4" FPT fitting on the manifold.
It is the same switch as the SquareD 9013FHG12J52M1X model. It will wire for either 120V/240 Volts, single phase or three phase.
Hope this helps!
Air Compressor Parts Online
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I looked up this video to confirm the 1/4 inch tubing would go into the quick connect fitting on the newer style switch. What a shock to hear Harry Dean Morgan doing a video. Does anyone else think he sounds like Negan from the Walking Dead? Anyrate the video confirmed exactly what I thought. Thanks guys.
Thanks for watching and we'll pass that along to Eric! I'm sure he'll get a kick out of that :-)
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline man if he could learn the lines it would be a great party trick. You guys have a great day, cheers from PEI Canada.
Great video! Just purchased a compressor and trying to find out about everything I can :) The manual that came with the compressor doesn't explain the pressure switch part.
Just wondering, should there be a hose connected to the bleeder valve, the compression fitting that you point at @3:42 in the video? It wasn't installed when I got it, brand new, or is that for some extra features perhaps?
Thanks for the watch Chris! Yes, if your pressure switch has a bleeder valve (whether it be a "quick-connect" fitting or a compression fitting) then you should have a bleeder line attached to it. On most units out there you'll find that the bleeder tube routes from valve on the pressure switch to the side of the check valve in the tank. Without a bleeder line attached to the bleeder valve, there's no way for the unit to "unload" the excess air out of the lines when the units shuts off.
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline My old pressure switch had a compression fitting on it and my new one has a quick connect fitting is there an adapter for that?
@@x9cat2 Thanks for the question! There's not an adapter for that that I know of. What we always recommend is to use the quick connect fittings on the new switch and to simply change out the rigid unloader tube with a 1/4" OD flexible Nylon tube, which works with the quick connect fitting. Our part# is NTB14 and we sell it by the foot, although you can obtain this locally as well. It's flexible too so it won't kink. This is the best way to go.
I fitted a max 12bar switch to my compressor that runs at 8bar 115psi. Can you adjust it down on the bolt ? As I have tried but still doesn't work correctly !
Thanks for the comment! MOST pressure switches are adjustable. If you see an adjustment screw under the cover, most likely that's it and if there is only one screw, this will probably adjust the cut-in AND cut-out pressures simultaneously. Turn the screw in a CCW rotation to decrease the pressure setting. You may not be able to adjust the pressure down to 115 PSI, it depends on the switch model. I hope this helps!
Of Course, the one that i have is the one in the middle which had no discussion. Thanks!
OBELIEVER I have the same switch on a steele SP-CE355tm What a peace of JUNK..
I have a Kobalt 26 gallon air compressor and it won't come on. Is there a fuse or reset? or is the switch bad?
what is the correct position of the cable for the installation of this switch? / for installation FBANG swtich compressor . Thanks
unloader valve..... what looking for it. thanks
I need to replace the pressure switch on my older (early '90s) Sears Craftsman compressor.
Compressor: Model 919.152830 30 Gal, 5HP
- Cut-off pressure: 125 PSI
Switch to be replaced: Furnas AC-0197
Sears' website says the part is out of production and no substitute part exists. But it looks just like the switch on the bottom right if this video. You referred to it as an import style 4-port Furnas style. Is that what I need?
Thank you for watching and for the question! First, the OEM switch is indeed obsolete now. However, it was a Furnas brand and a 4-port switch. You can probably use another Furnas (now Hubbell) 4-port switch, yes. The main specs you need to know is the cut-in PSI and cut-out PSI. You can view the various 4-port Hubbell/Furnas switches we have on our website by clicking on the below link:
mastertoolrepair.com/4port-style-pressure-switches-p-287.html
Hope this helps!
I have a ingersol rand model dd2t2 I need a pressure switch and everything that goes on it like the fittings and the gages can you get all that together
We don't offer OEM IR parts as you must purchase them from an authorized IR dealer (and we're not, I'm afraid). But, it's probably a popular pressure switch.
You can take a look at the pressure switches we offer by clicking on the below link. You can match the specs with the specs of your switch to see if one of our pressure switches may be a replacement for your original:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/air-compressor-parts-pressure-switches-c-25_2.html
Hello. This might be an off topic question but is it better to leave the drain plug open when the compressor is not used for a longer period of time such as during winter in order to prevent any possible condensation within the tank?
Thank you for the question! Yes, it's always best to drain the tank of air when you know you won't be using the compressor for a period of time. You don't necessarily need to leave the drain cock open but at least drain all of the air from the tank when you know you won't be using the compressor for awhile; this certainly helps prevent condensation and hence, rust.
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline Thank you for the reply. I haven’t used It for a 4 months or so. I drained the air and I left it slightly the drain cock open and I wanted to make sure If I did it correctly or perhaps wrong for leaving the drain cock slightly open. Best regards
How is the noise level?
Hi, thanks for making this video. Unfortunately, I cannot find replacement parts for my Puma PK5060V anywhere online. It needs a new pressure switch. It's a 60 gallon, upright compressor. Are pressure switches at all universal? Mine has one port, and two leads from each side (wall/motor) going into it. A line from the check valve meets it with a bleeder valve on the side. Can you offer me any guidance on how to replace this switch? Thanks, Adam.
Unfortunately I can't find any info on your particular model, but I do know it was manufactured around '95. If I could see a photo of the switch I bet I could match a replacement up for you. What is the brand of the switch and model? This should be under the plastic cover.
You can also post this to our Repair Forums site and upload a photo of the unit and switch if you'd like, just click on the below link:
forums.mastertoolrepair.com/index.php/forum/index
Air Compressor Parts Online Hi, it is a 1991 model. Puma sent me a parts manual, and it shows the pressure switch # as 056-CD135P4-001. Unfortunately, there is no number on the unit itself. If it can be replaced by a generic/updated unit, that would be fine. It has one port on the bottom and one side bracket for a bleeder valve (I also need the bleeder valve--would this come with a pressure switch?). Thanks, Adam
Thanks for this video. There is one question I have that I cannot find an answer for online. I would like to house my compressor under my woodshop (it has a raised floor) but can i mount my gauges and control valves a few metres away on my wall to change tools and monitor pressure? Is it possible?
Thank you for the question! That is totally possible. You can run flexible or rigid piping from where the outlet comes from the tank. I would then move the regulator and gauges to a wall-mounted regulator assembly. The link below is a large 1/2" unit:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/12-regulatorfilter-combo-unit-u1115-acs-p-3969.html
You can get very involved with it or you can use a simple regulator assy like the above that's mounted to a wall.
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline your site needs work bro
@@chrishayes5755 I'm sure it could use some sprucing up, but we sell air compressor parts so it's not exactly a glamorous business. Thanks for the feedback, though ;-)
great vid. i have a sears craftsman with a furnace type switch. a friend of my fsther in law took it completly apart and lost the screw that runs through the spring. how long should it be, how tight do i tighten it, so i can replace. screw has a allen head look with a pin in the center.pressute switch mfg part number ac-0385-1. hate to have to buy entire switch due to him losing it. and that was not problem, was check valve. lol thank you
Need help here Thanks
Hello. This may be off-topic, but I think you are an expert on air compressors. I have 12 gallon air compressor. Is it okay to depressurize the air tank receiver by using the safety relief valve by pulling the ring? I just tried a little from a distance, and heard a loud sound of air for a second and it kinda scared me. Is it dangerous procedure to pull the ring on the safety relief valve?
Thank you for the question! It's not necessarily dangerous to relieve the tank pressure from the safety valve, but it is very loud and not the best way to relieve the tank pressure. Ideally, you want to drain the tank from the drain cock on the bottom of the tank. For one, it's not as loud. Two, you don't have to hold it open with your hand the whole time. Three, it will also drain any moisture out of the air tank when you do this, so it's much preferred to drain the tank pressure from the drain cock at the bottom of your air receiver.
how do you replace the main copper line going in to the tank without taking everything lose
Thanks for the question Tony. You're referring to the larger discharge tube from the pump to the tank, yes? If so, the discharge tube on most units typically attaches to the pump head and to the tank check valve with a brass compression nut. Of course, this would require just loosening the nut and removing the tube. Some units are are harder to get to so you may have to first remove the shroud (if applicable), but once you do it should be fairly straight forward. If you can reply with your model# I can probably give you more specifics. Thanks!
then I have a real problem I was giving a power system plus aid compressor and the switch was in a zip lock bag the model # is 1125C and the serial number is 2011070239 can you tell me what you sell this for and for can I replace it?
My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong??
I came across a free compressor I’m trying to fix if it’s worth it. The whole pressure switch assembly is missing. What info do I need to know to order one? I also have something missing from another hole. One large hole which I assume is these and I’m not sure what was in the small hole on the other side of the tank.
Thanks for the question! There are certain specs you need to know about your compressor before you can find the correct pressure switch. First, what is the cut-on and cut-off PSI settings of the compressor? You should be able to find this info on the manufacturer's site and if not, try giving them a call to see if they can give you this info. Maybe they can even give you the pressure switch part number or specs. Next, find out if you need an unloader valve on your switch or not. Most units DO use the Unloader Line which connects the tank to the pressure switch Unloader Valve (this is usually a 1/4" OD copper or nylon line). Next, figure out if you need a single "port" or thread on the bottom of your pressure switch (the manifold) or if you need a 4-way manifold.
You can view the various pressure switches we have available on our site at the below link:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/air-compressor-parts-pressure-switches-c-25_2.html
Does the pressure switch found on water pumps can be used for air compressors?
Yes Vishwan, pressure switches found on water pumps can technically be used on air compressors. However, most water pump switches have pre-set pressure settings that are much lower than a typical air compressor will operate at, usually 30 to 50 PSI for a water pump and at least 125 PSI for an air compressor. The switches are identical except for the pressure settings. The switches are adjustable, but cannot usually be adjusted from 30 PSI to 125 PSI. So, it's best to purchase a pressure switch that has the cut-in and cut-out PSI ratings high enough for an air compressor to operate at. I hope this answers your question and thank you for commenting!
I have a Campbell Hausefeld vt91020, what would be a compatible pressure switch?
Thanks for the question! Your original pressure switch has been obsolete for some years now. There is a newer style conversion kit the manufacturer sells now, which is part# CW212600SJ and you can find it on our website by clicking on the below link:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/95125-furn-to-condor-ps-kit-cw212600sj-p-18819.html?osCsid=e1p8776ognlfijmot80tb6boq9&osCsid=e1p8776ognlfijmot80tb6boq9
This includes a newer-style Condor brand switch with the necessary tubing and fittings you would need to convert it. As long as the max PSI of your compressor is 125 PSI, the above kit would install and work for your model as best I can tell, and is the best option at this point.
I have a 60 gallon dewalt compressor and it will not even cut on. I use it all the time. It has power to switch and motor. It's hard wired. But motor will not turn on.. will pressure switch make it not even turn on?
HELP! I have a husky 60 gallon, when I turn it on it runs fine till it reaches around 20-25 psi. Then the motor starts clicking, its a constant click with 1-2 second intervals. Does it for about a minute, the psi stays at 20-25 psi and then shuts off and starts humming. Thats when I usually off the compressor, it never trips the breaker box though. What could it be? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
It sounds as though there could be a couple of possible issues.
1) I would have the motor's Run Capacitor tested. You can do this if you have a voltmeter but it's probably worth taking it into to a place like Batteries+ or having an electrician test the Capacitor. This is a common symptom of a defective Run Cap.
2) Make sure the contacts on the motor Starter Switch are clean and clear of rust or varnish. This is the assembly directly behind the front end bell of the motor. If you remove the screws you will see the copper contacts, and they may just need to be cleaned up.
I would say my money is on the Run Cap being defective, however. As long as the motor Pulley and pump Flywheel are aligned and your belt isn't too tight or loose, that's probably the issue.
Hope this helps!
I have the red push bottom on my pressure switch. And spring is off how do I replace the spring please
If the spring came off, it can be replaced, unfortunately. More specifically, it SHOULD not be attempted. That spring is one of the main pressure sensing components in the switch and even if you could re-install it, it wouldn't operate at the correct pressures. It is certainly recommended to replace the pressure switch in this case. Thanks for the question!
Are all pressure switch universal. Like I got a rockworth compressor 220 v and I replaced the switch but now it's putting to much load on the motor.
Most of the time, yes. Switches can be wired for either 110/120V or 220/230V, but they do have different amp ratings, so confirm the amp rating is high enough for the motor running your compressor. If the above checks out then you may have another electrical problem...it could be the power cord or motor cord, the pressure switch contacts could be damaged, the motor starter switch or the breaker itself.
Good day.. I bought a second hand air compressor on my friend.. But the pressure switch is missing. He do not know where it is. How do i know the right pressure switch to be replace? By the way the air compressor brand is vespa with 1/4hp...thankyou i hope you can help me
I am not too familiar with Vespa air compressors, to be honest. Does it look like one of the units on the Vespa website, below?
www.dragonprimeent.com/product/vespa-taiwan-air-compressor/
You want to make sure you install the correct pressure switch, certainly. The cut-on PSI and cut-out PSI is the most important spec.
Do you have a model number on the Vespa unit?
Yang tarik ser
Ano po Standard PSI Pressure for 12Gallon-Galvanized tank..deepwell at 1hp motorwater-pump?
really have a problem the one I have did not have one at all all I have is a modal number I brought mine use because of the switch it was busted and removed by the the other carrier is there any way I can find out witch switch I need for my air Conpresser so I can fix it?
If you can reply with a model number that will help identify the original switch and if that's not available, maybe a switch that is very similar. Also, any numbers or brand names on the original switch will help identify it.
You can view the various pressure switches we have available on our website at the below link:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/air-compressor-parts-pressure-switches-c-25_2.html
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline I have a Power system Plus Model# 1125C Serial# 2011070239
I have a Porter Cable and just replaced the pressure switch. It was not the original switch. Now my regulator does not keep the pressure down at what it is set at, but allows the pressure higher. I can hear the air hissing out of it. The switch goes up to about 140 psi then turns off. Any ideas what the problem is? It never did this before. Thanks.
I have the same problem with my 26 gallon porter cable
I rebuilt the regulator with a kit I bought online and now it's better. I did see it do the same thing again once or twice but usually not.
will a bad unloader valve cause pressure switch not to turn on compressor?
It's certainly possible, yes. It really depends if the unloader valve is stuck open or closed. If the unloader valve is stuck open, then all of the air from it and the unit will probably never shut off. The unit will still turn on and operate, however, so this is rare.
The more common issue is if the unloader valve is stuck closed. When this happens, the compressor won't be able to bleed off the excess pressure in the lines once it shuts off. If this happens, the unit will try to start against this back pressure, which will probably trip the breaker. This is somewhat common.
The most common problem, however, is when the defective check valve causes tank pressure to backfeed through the lines and out of the unloader. The unloader is not defective in this case, it's just a symptom of the defective check valve, and replacing it will take care of the problem.
Hope this helps!
I’m looking for a FURNAS 69MB109473R switch, where can I find one?
Thank you for the comment David. That Furnas number is a catalog number that I can't cross reference, but we probably do have the switch or a switch very similar available. There is a popular switch that we have available which you can see by clicking on the below link. This is a single-port Furnas-style switch (it's an aftermarket version which is less expensive) with a 1/4" FPT fitting on the bottom. It's rated at 90/125 PSI. It has a manual on/off lever switch on the side as well as your 1/4" brass compression fitting, which your bleeder line attaches to. Just by searching the Furnas part number on Google and looking at the specs for the original, it appears this would be a close replacement:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/090125-psi-generic-furnas-style-pressure-switch-fsps90125-p-1117872.html
I need spare parts for AF compressors. Do you have the possibility to supply? Thanks
I'm not familiar with the "AF" brand, I'm afraid. Is that an abbreviation? If you can give me an example of some model numbers then I'll certainly see if we can supply parts for you!
AF means Ateliers François S.A. . Model is Model -L5A
Is there a different between 110 and 220 pressure switches
There is no difference in functionality, no. These pressure switches can be wired for either 110 or 220 volts. There is a wiring diagram under the cover of the switch. Thank you for the comment!
I have the middle pressure switch. My problem with my Bostitch 25 gal vertical compressor is that when I pull out the red button to turn it on it Dosnt do anything. Does this mean the pressure switch is bad?
Thanks for the question Walt. It could be defective, yes. It could be as simple as a mechanical problem with the red knob where it connects to the copper contacts in the switch body, under the cover. When you pull the red button, there is a lever inside that should allow the copper contacts to press against each other, which turns the unit on. When you push the button, the lever should lift those contacts apart, cutting the unit off. If this isn't happening then it's possible part of the plastic knob or lever is broken, so the contacts aren't engaging. It could also be that the contacts are varnished and need to be polished to get a good connection. Last resort is to replace the switch.
I hope this helps!
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline thank
you for the feedback. It looks
Like the switch is working and the contacts are making contact so I will take it apart and clean them next. See if that helps. If I end up replacing the entire switch is there anything else that should be replaced at same time?
@@waltw918 That's a good plan! I don't think you would need to replace any other parts, honestly (without being there with the compressor myself). Just make sure the tank is holding air and doesn't leak after the unit shuts off. If it does leak then I would replace the in-tank Check Valve. Otherwise, cleaning the Pressure Switch contacts or replacing it should take care of the problem.
Replaced presure switch and it still cuts out well before any presure is built. The reset button always pops.??????
Thanks for the comment Brad. It could be that the pressure switch is defective, but that's not my first guess. If the reset pops before max PSI is achieved, I'm inclined to think the reset is defective itself, or you have a motor problem. The motor could simply be overheating and drawing too many amps. It's probably best to have the motor checked out since you already replaced the pressure switch.
where can i find just the ps cover for part# cac-359 thanks in advance
I'm afraid DeVilbiss (now under the wing of Stanley Black & Decker who manufacturer DeWalt & Porter Cable as well) has made this obsolete, so we don't have it available unfortunately.
You may want to try contacting DeVilbiss to see if they still stock any in their warehouse; their cust service phone number is 800-992-4657.
I believe that switch is made by Furnas, so you could always try getting the long Furnas model# off of the switch (probably on the inside of the cover) and contacting them as well. I believe Furnas is now Hubbell. Hope this helps.
thanks alot
When I turn on my compressor it start out just fine.but halfway the motor starts to slow down then after a minute it starts running great again.Any idea what's going on?
Thanks for the question Garry.
Here are some suggestions:
- The run capacitor is defective (would need to test it with a capacitor tester or have an electrician test it)
- Extension cord (if using) is too long
- Pressure Switch contacts are varnished and need to be polished.
- An obstruction in the head/discharge tube/check valve (just make sure the inlet air filter element in your pump head is in good condition).
- If it is an oil-bath unit, and it is cold, it could be that the oil viscosity is too high.
I hope this helps!
sir...i have a question about switch...air compressor presure switch they are same to water compressor presure switch...both same function....?
Correct, both compressor pressure switches and water compressor switches function in the same way. They both sense the pressure of the air (or water) and turn the unit on and off at specific pressures pre-set at the factory. Let me know if you have any additional questions. Thank you Errol!
tnx sir...ur info...thumb ups
Hi Do you have a replacement pressure valve for a mac 2200?...and if you do how much w/ shipping to 13801...Thanks
+steve Forgacs The original part# for the pressure switch for the MAC2200 is AC0197-2, which is no longer available per Makita.You could use a similar 4-port pressure switch with the same PSI ratings, however. Take a look at the pressure switches on our website at the below link; you should be able to match up the specs on the original switch to one of our replacements:
www.aircompressorpartsonline.com/furnas-pressure-switches-furnas-port-style-furnas-pressure-switch-p-287.html
+Air Compressor Parts Online Great Thanks
+steve Forgacs The link you sent doesnt work
+steve Forgacs Sorry about that! Here you go:
www.aircompressorpartsonline.com/index.php?r=product/view&id=287
steve Forgacs 😘😘
I have a job smart pan cake air compressor 90-120 psi i need new switch do you have one?
There is a good chance we do. Do you have the model number for your air compressor? If so, that'll make it easier. But, you can click on the below link to view our pressure switches and may be able to match yours up with one we list on that page:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/air-compressor-parts-pressure-switches-c-25_2.html
Hi, I need a pressure switch for central pneumatic compressor mod.47065.If you have let me know.5=19-2018
Hi MT Con, we do not sell parts for Central Pneumatic. They will fill your order at 1 800 444 3353.
Or, this one should work. Hope this helps!
mastertoolrepair.com/090-125-psi-wuxihx-style-pressure-switch-de-2396465-p-3829.html
My compressor is 25 years old. I can't find a pressure switch. It's a Craftsman Model # 919-15291-2 and it will not shut off. Inside pressure switch cover says it's a AC 0062 # D-56962-2. Can you help me?
Thanks for the question, Skip. BTW, we have a breakdown of your model compressor available at the below link:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/portable-oilfree-directdrive-electric-air-compressor-parts-919152912-p-802341.html
Your original switch is obsolete so the only option is a third party switch. The manifold on the bottom of your switch has two inlets: one that threads directly onto the stand pipe nipple to your air tank and another where the safety relief valves threads into. The only switch we'd have that's similar is a 4-port manifold switch, so it has three 1/4" female NPT threads in the bottom. You would only need to use two, the other two inlets you would plug.
aircompressorpartsonline.com/095125-psi-generic-furnas-style-pressure-switch-fsps495125-p-1027.html
I'm not entirely sure if the plastic cover would fit over the new switch perfectly, however, as the on/off lever switch on the side might be located in a slightly different position on the switch, so it may not fit through the hole that's cut out in the plastic shroud for it.
I hope this helps!
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline Thank You very much for the reply and suggestion
Also I have a Huskey WL 660900AJ and every time it tries to start it blows circuit breaker in my garage. HELP
Skip, we also have a breakdown of this unit on our site as well:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/portable-oilfree-air-compressor-parts-after-march-of-2005-wl660800-wl660900-p-746926.html
Does the unit hold air in the tank after it cuts off? If so, great...but if air constantly leaks from the tank after it shuts off, you have a bad check valve. A check valve that's stuck (or that has debris inside of it) will cause the unit to trip the breaker when you turn it on, as air cannot get through the check valve into the tank, creating back pressure.
If the above is NOT the case, there is an electrical problem and it may lie with the motor. In this case, I would recommend having an electrician or compressor tech diagnose the unit in this instance.
Hello, my Speedair is fitted with a Furnace: CW-2075-51, catalog no. 69MB108430,. If this guy in obsolete can I order a comparable replacement? Regards
Per Campbell Hausfeld (who made these units under the SpeedAire brand) there is no direct replacement available for this older CW-2075-51. However, there is probably a modern pressure switch you can use as a replacement, yes. The best thing to do is go to the below link on our site to view all Furnas pressure switches:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/furnas-pressure-switches-furnas-port-style-furnas-pressure-switch-p-287.html
You'll need to know:
1) Is it a 1-port or 4-port manifold on the switch?
2) Does it have an unloader valve?
3) What are the cut-on and cut-off pressure settings?
th-cam.com/video/4qP9tCAVzFE/w-d-xo.html
Above is our link to our video on how to choose a pressure switch, which may also help. I'm sure one of the modern Furnas pressure switches we offer will fit on your unit without much modification. The most important specs is the pressure setting and the number of ports (threads) on the manifold.
I bet your regulator is on backwards Check out the arrow..
I just need a new unloader valve it's corroded spring is broken. Looking at prices the valve is $20 I can get entire pressure switch off amazon for $14 and just remove the unloader valve from it throw rest away.
i have a 22 gallon craftsman 919.1762200 and need a switch wich one do i need???
Thank you for the question. The original pressure switch for that model (made by DeVilbiss for Sears) is obsolete, I'm afraid.
www.searspartsdirect.com/model/38mx4wence-000247/craftsman-919176220-air-compressor-parts?page=2
However, as long as you match up the basic specs with your original to one of the pressure switches we offer, you can use an aftermarket switch. You basically need to know the info you'll find at the below link to our website:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/1portstyle-pressure-switches-p-286.html
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline thank you
My 20 gallon husky air compressor runs all the time with no air built up would I need a pressure switch or what?
+Jerry Thompson "What", seem to be the go,
Hey! Mate if the the air is not building up, it is not the pressure switch. The pressure switch controls the motor I/O, not the making of Air Pressure.
It currently has the compressor running like hell waiting for the Air Pressure to build up. Still waiting.
@new Leaf Is the pressure "building Up". If so, what pressure?
@new Leaf OK, then set your pressure switch. There are many utubes how to do it. Is it a new, medium or veteran age machine?
I put a new switch on my husky 60 gal,,,,,and it will bleed down to 90psi after it reaches 135,,,,,what gives?
This is indicative of a bad check valve in the tank causing it to backfeed to the switch. What is your model number?
my switch is the last one you showed bought new at TS,,,,(Tractor supply)
Permission to post Admin. Gentlemen, i need help on this Thanks.
My friend gave me an air compressor Type EY-29 , Cap. 88L , Displacement 215L/min , Motor 1hp , Pressure 8kg , RPM 700 thats all the information my question is what/which pressure switch is compatible with this? And is it ok if i install a 2hp electric motor ? Many Thanks to all
GodBless
Thank you for the question Jose! I did find this air compressor online, you can see it at the below link:
www.kakingstore.com/hardware/compressor/vespa/air-compressor-ey-29-2hp
I'm not very familiar with this compressor but it looks like a 2 HP electric motor [should] push this pump. It looks like a smaller single-stage unit and very similar to units we service. You can really install any pressure switch on this unit, just make sure it has the "cut-in" and "cut-out" pressure that you need. I don't know what this spec is for this unit as I don't see any detailed information for it. I hope this helps.
Many Thanks Sir, sorry i forgot to write down the brand yes Sir this is exactly my air compressor. Well , now, that you've gave me the answer (good one) i can now begin to put together the missing parts without CONFUSIONS
Thanks so much
GodBless Sir....
You're certainly welcome @@jmallari5213 and I'm glad we could help!
Ok
i cant get my Pressure Switch to work with my gas motor Air Compressors how to connect a pressure switch to a gas motor so it goes off and on
I have a 27 gallon Husky compressor with the oiled compressor piston assembly. My question is: at the tank they used a reducer fitting that runs into the pressure switch and then goes to the pressure valve (dial) and then to the tool. I have a 1/2” Ingersoll Rand impact wrench that’s capable of 600 lb reverse torque at 27 FPS but my tank can’t flow that much pressure with the 3/8” high-flow hose and fittings. Is it possible to start at the tank by increasing the size of that reducer fitting and using a larger fitting, going with a larger pressure switch, larger pressure valve (dial) then 3/8” high flow fittings and hose to get an overall higher flow rate? The issue I’m having is that even with 3/8” high flow fittings and hose I still can’t get even close to 600 lbs of reverse torque from that impact wrench even running the hose pressure at 150 psi for short bursts? Sometimes I can’t even crack off a wheel lug nut off with full pressure and that’s definitely not several hundred ft/lbs of torque. I don’t understand how a larger tank would improve the situation since it’s overall volume, but I’m literally talking about short bursts at a maximum pressure of 150 psi, wouldn’t it be the same for a 26 gallon tank and an 80 gallon tank? I seriously believe if all the plumbing was upsized to 3/8” I could achieve enough CFM to increase the overall power of the torque wrench for short bursts to pop off those lug nuts like nothing. What are your thoughts?
Thank you for the question and for the watch! I don't think that installing an adapter with a larger outlet will improve the CFM (volume of air delivery) much, at least not that will make a difference. For your application, the compressor is probably just undersized....I would recommend using a compressor with a higher CFM rating, as your compressor simply doesn't have the CFM output to run the impact wrench (which require a lower PSI but a higher CFM to operate efficiently). Also, make sure to find the CFM requirement of your impact wrench (which will be in the manual) to match it with the CFM output of the compressor you're using.
What if my current setup doesn't have an unloader valve?
It really depends on the compressor. Some compressors don't use an Unloader Valve on the Pressure Switch, and this is the case if the compressor unloads at the pump head. Some units, especially two-stage pumps, have a centrifugal unloader or head unloaders that allow the excess air in the line to be "dumped" or "unloaded", rather than through a pressures witch Unloader. Either way, your compressor needs a way to unload the excess air in the line and pump head, your compressor may just have a different method of doing this.
Thank you, I inherited this Dayton Aire compressor from my dad, it is at least from the 80's. I want a pressure switch with an on/off lever so I can stop turning on and off the breaker when in use. (home garage)
I hear the compressor let out excess air after each cycle, so it sounds like what you described. So if that is the case, is that okay not not connect the unloader to anything?
Exactly, as long as you hear that burst of air after the unit shuts off (a few seconds), the compressor is unloading properly and there is no need to install a pressure switch with an unloader. You can simply install a pressure switch with an on/off switch that doesn't have an unloader, or you can use a pressure switch with an unloader and simply don't connect anything to it.
Thank you so much!!
Hi. I recently bought an air compressor and the pressure switch looks like in the middle at 00:40 i.e. push/pull type. However, when I pull the red button I can’t hear a click indicating the on position, it only clicks when turning off or by pushing it down. Do you know what could be the issue?
It could simply be a mechanical problem. I would first removed the cover (after you turn the power off, of course) to see if you can find out why this is happening and possibly repair it. If not, you may have to replace the pressure switch since I don't know if the cover is available separately or not. Thank you for the comment!
Air Compressor Parts Online 🙈 I’m retarded, I didn’t know I had to twist and pull this button at the same time, not just pull. 😂 Everything’s working good now. By the way, do all new air compressors come pre-filled with oil or just some (excluding the oilless)? Mine it’s pre-filled I noticed.
@@UFOENGINE That's good to hear! Glad you found the problem. Most units actually do not come with the pump pre-filled with oil, no. Typically, you will see residual oil in the crankcase because the manufacturer test runs the compressors prior to putting them on the sale floor, but they then drain the oil after testing. So, you should really only see the residual oil in the crankcase and probably need to fill it.
@@AirCompressorPartsOnlineYou say 'most units', does that mean that some manufacturers do pre-fill the units with oil although is not that common like you say?
@@UFOENGINE I've actually not seen a manufacturer prefill any of their air compressors with oil, no. You would need to add oil to the crankcase before use.
The rocker flip switch stripped, you started off way too complicated....flip switch just wobbles....
h
please simply show the switch, dont' juggle it quickly or spin it in your hands. Slow down
Noted! Thank you for the comment and for the watch.
Worthless information and time......for me
You sound like ed bolian
I need a sweatch for Craftman air compressor mod.# 919.168700 33gal. I think the sweatch modal # is D27228
i recieved my air compressor with a swich that is slightly bent and air is leaking i think can i repair it some how i have the one in middle