Nice video Jafro. I usually connect the wideband in the factory O2 wiring plug. I cut the factory front or rear O2 sensor, then solder the wideband wires in the fatory plug. From then I got the ground, 12v, and ECU signal runing trough the original wiring. In the future if its needed I can just unplug the wideband and plug a new narrowband back againd. Keep the great work. Special thanks from all the brazilians DSMers.
Marcelo Izumi That is definitely one good way to do it. After all, all that stuff is grounded and connected to the same ECU pins. The person whom I seek help from for my tuning did it that way and I strongly considered it. I do like doing things the easy way occasionally, but on this particular install, I'm glad I didn't. I would have fried my brand new wideband sensor that way if I did because the controller box is not internally fused. I'm not criticizing that method because it's something that would have happened *only to me*, while working fine for everyone else, and I documented it in the description. My o2 sensor was broken not because it was a bad sensor, but because my wiring harness failed. While trying to remove my o2 sensor, sparks shot across my garage from several locations in o2 sensor harness, through the insulation. It never did that before. All I had to do was touch it to make that happen. I didn't know that it had been spliced and repaired a dozen times prior to my troubleshooting episode, and that it was made from several poorly insulated lengths of different wires soldered together. It was really bad. If someone was doing this install on a car with a good harness, it would have worked beautifully, but like I said, it would have happened only to me. I'm still chasing down several gremlins with my tuning and suspect the o2 circuit isn't the only one I'm having problems with.
Really appreciate your vids. Just followed this install but on my 95 DSM. Also for perspective I’m grateful I don’t have that buried O2! Yes, the almost instant soldering and heat shrink capabilities of the Power Probe soldering kit are worth every inflated dollar - even in 2022. Thanks again Jafro!
Juan Lopez Just to let you know... this car is driving an intelligent man crazy. It really doesn't want to be fixed and keeps trying to find new ways to tell me that.
Very thorough. I really appreciate the showing of the installation instructions. When my customer dropped his unit off, he managed to forget to put them back in the box.
Heh. Don't worry about wasting 7 seconds. Some of us need the repetition to help pound in the lessons. I'm still at the level of trying to figure out why that "battery" thing isn't getting charged by the, um, "engine" thing in my 1G, but videos like this one inspire me to keep learning. On the bright side, since the battery is charged each night from a wall socket, I'm going to claim that I have a 4G63 + electric hybrid. Thanks for the ongoing inspiration, Jafro.
William Dye Good news for you then... I plan to re-visit the GM alternator install in another video in the near future. It will include everything you need to know about how to fix your particular issue. I'm sorry it's not ready yet. It's centered around the GM alternator, but it will cover the pin-outs of the factory harness and common mistakes made when installing non-factory alternators. Mistakes that are easily avoided. It explains what PLFS and B means. DSMs only have 3 of those. 2 of them are unnecessary on DSMs... but 9 times out of 10 if a good alternator isn't charging, it's a ground problem. ;) Once you add a GM part to the mix, it's usually that as well as a pulley problem. The factory GM pulley is just too dang big. Spins too slow.
I love to see you mess up the shrink tubing. Always made me feel stupid. Glad I am not the only one, although I do wish you never forget in the future! I did this 2x in a row on some copper tubing, lol. Head in the clouds I left off the locking nut twice : (. Worst part was that caused me to need more tubing, which we didn't have and we were at a remote location in Alaska. Great video. I subscribed because it's so helpful!
Thank you Jafro for blessing my Saturday night with another awesome video, by the way ever since you told me about your race with the 8v Volkswagen I've been saving up for goodies for mine! Hopefully I'll post videos of it in a few months! Thank you Jafro!
Jafro I would highly recommend picking up the Innovate heatsink extender bung for the sensor when used in the front o2 location. From my experience with this same setup, I went through a sensor about every 4-6 months or so, the heat kills them. Once I bit the bullet and bought the heatsink I haven't burned up a sensor in 2 years. Great work as always, chooch it!
My motor is in a of tonight. Just praying machine shop did there job well. Follower of all your tips and tricks. I'll let you know how the start up goes. Thanks bro. I need link v3 and wideband after 500 miles so keep them coming. Going to have to look for your v3 and map mod videos.
Jafro i would like to say youve been an inspiration. your wealth of knowledge throughout the rebuild of the Hyundai has been awesome and very very loaded with info. Though my engine i will be rebuilding isnt the same alot of what you have shown is shared knowledge. Also your patience and drive is astounding, its something im really working on but find so hard to have the same patience with difficult parts that you seem to have.
Narrowband sensor When running an LC-1 wideband, you can simply enable narrowband simulation in ECMLink and use nothing but the LC-1's analog output for both wideband data and narrowband closed-loop operation. However, if you have the option of running both a wideband sensor and a narrowband sensor, considering doing so. This is probably more common on a 2G where you can run the narrowband sensor to the factory Front O2 pin while logging the wideband sensor on the factory Rear O2 pin, but there are enough inputs on a 1G to do the same thing. The advantage to running a factory narrowband is that you get a good data point for checking up on the LC-1's calibration. The narrowband sensor is going to switch around stoichiometric. It's really good at that. So as long as you're running in closed loop operation using the factory narrowband sensor, you should see an LC-1 logged value of about stoich as well. It's not a big deal either way, though. So don't go out of your way to make it happen. If it's convenient, great, give it a shot. If it's not, don't worry about it.
Great wiring job. I've been eyeing a butane version since I have a lot of butane gadgets and refill canisters. Those little suckers are awesome. Just helped me decide to go ahead and get one. You can do plastic welding with them too which I plan on making a video on eventually.
Kindda motivated me to install the lc-2 I have laying around here but I was thinking of picking up an aem uego since I like the gauge better. Anyway still loving the update.
5FaLlEn5 If you install your wiring connections the way I did mine... the UEGO will be plug-n-play if you don't like the LC2. An ugly wideband is better than no wideband at all. ; )
I love your new soldering iron. Going to have to pick up one of these. You made short work of the installation and setup. I really would like to know what your RWHP is before and after you start tuning. My curiosity on how much the wideband will help you is overwhelming. I know, dyno time is expensive but it sure would be nice to see the performance differences. Good luck with the tune and thanks again for producing a very comprehensive ECM installation video. I like it. Running E85 on weekends would be cool too! Cheers
Jafro, thanks for all your information.. I was getting incredibly frustrated why my lc1 was calibrating to 7.4 and finally when I saw your free air calibration went to 22.4 I had so much inspiration to go through the wiring and check it out. I fixed the problem, the DB gauge and the controller BOTH need to be on the same voltage or ELSE.. Not sure wire, maybe the voltage just needs to be like that or lc1 is useless.. But now after months of WONDERING why my gauge NEVER worked especially after I recently replaced my sensor .. I got to it due to this video. HOWEVER, when I went into ECMLink and followed your set up, my WB isn't reading on ECMLINK now.. LOL.. Guess there's more hairs to pull out.. Anyway you could help me out with that? God bless you brother, you are truly amazing! WISH YOU HAD A FACEBOOK SO I COULD ADD YOU!
+josh goot This advice is a long-shot, but one that causes the exact same symptoms you described. Gauge works fine now, right? Reads correctly when driving? Wired properly, input pin assignments selected, values added, simulate narrowband o2 selected, still doesn't read properly in ECMlink? Right? If you left your o2 circuit in-tact and just ADDED the wire to the ECU pin like I showed in the video, rather than cut the original o2 circuit out of the equation... then the problem on your o2 circuit might be a short in the original o2 circuit. That was my problem. I found it when I touched the harness with the engine running and sparks shot 6 feet out the engine bay from the o2 harness. Dead giveaway... but if you're installnig the LC in place of a factory o2 circuit that wasn't working right, you don't need the factory o2 circuit in the mix.
I have a LC1 and i haven't had to recalibrate it since i installed it like a year ago. it still reads the same idle and WOT air/fuel ratios. it is on a carbureted 350ci SBC though
Arno Deinum ...on an AWD car, I love that launch control FEEL. ; ) Haven't figured out the FWD launch on this car yet. Last build was at full boost by 2500 RPMs and smoked the tires with or without it. Hopefully the bigger turbo helps with that (lag).
Love your videos. Always give you a thumbs up. do have to say i disagree with the comment about the sponge cleaning method leads to tip failure. As long as the tip is properly tinned, the sponge is just fine. I have used tips over 6months per soldering more everyday than most folks do in a year. the tips always last and are shiny after tinned. If you contaminate the tip and get dark spots on it. it will eat itself eventually. other than that either method is fine for cleaning the tip. Awesome vid. cant wait to see this little beast on the road.
Rhage73 I'm just one of those occasionally-soldering guys who buys nicer soldering irons than he deserves and lets it sit for long intervals between uses. My infrequent-use tip-contaminating ways have killed a few good irons. But oh man, I'm spoiled once I use it. The brass cleaner only idiot-proofs the process for the negligent people like me. ;)
=) just don't contaminate the tip and then clean it in the brass cleaner, then all tips from hence forth will suffer the same fate. Electronics are my living and have been since the early 90's, guess i just had to throw my two cents in there. Not knocking you at all, your videos are outstanding and among the best H2 or DIY on the web, and have more detailed information than the rest of them combined, complete with part numbers, tools needed and video footage of how you get er done. Love it. Someone so meticulous is a rare thing these days.
Welp, thanks for this video. I took a glance as I was throwing the WB in last night and realized I had mine installed wrong for more than 4 years. Lesson learned now let's tune the hyundai and make it rain in those intercooler pipes!
It's okay to splice power, ground, narrowband straight into the ECU pins. In fact, it's probably better to do it that way. Holy cow, did I really just get a comment from the rare and elusive BoostedBeaver?!?
It was the ground that got me. I ran it off a random bolt for years and ran the harness last night to do the same. After skimming through the video and a little reading, I'll be changing where one wire goes today. Thanks again and I'll make it more of a habit to leave comments on these wonderful pieces of entertainment you create. Maybe if the moon's align, the Hyundai can have a re match this year?
ground it off the same circuit you get power from... but if you want to avoid having any voltage offset between the WB controller and the ECU, use the ECU power pin 105 and the ECU ground. ;) I tried to avoid doing that, but ended up doing that later. I wanted to make sure it was bomb proof before sending you logs.
You often hear People ask - "Who would you like to have a one to one with?" Well my answer would be "Jafro" It would be in a Pub with several beers and lots of chatting and listening. :-)
Bevoin1970 You'll get your wish someday. The UK is on my bucket list. I'm unlikely to partake in a stodgy pre-packaged tour. I prefer the hospitality of the locals over anything like that. Watching your videos, I'm starting to feel like I might even be able to find my way around. lol! Thank you for those, BTW...
+Jafromobile. Do you have any experience with Evoscan ? I fitted an lc2 wideband inplace of my factory o2 sensor in the turbo elbow on my evo2 gsr. In your video you can simulate the narrowband with ecmlink which I cannot with evoscan. Do you have any idea how I would do it ? I have the lc2 wired into the ecu lambda pin out for logging purposes. I'm stuck trying to figure out how the ecu will get a signal it recognises as it is used to a narrowband signal. Thanks in advance.
Jafro, I'm trying to log my wideband in ecmlink V3. The previous owner installed it in the rear 02 location. My issue is that in the Wideband drop box, there is no option for rear 02. Also, with the factory sensor in the front location, would this mean that I do not have to simulate my narrowband? Thanks!
Hello I can't get my B sensor to calibrate it has lines showing. I see at 11:03 you connect white and yellow? It doesn't tell you this in the Manuel? I thought the white gets grounded?
Duncan Mac Thank you for your patronage, and if this is something you want, just keep watching and fake it until you make it. When I was 9, I read the first 25 pages of the "Getting Started With Machine Language" that shipped with the first Apple ][+ computer that Henrico County Public Schools ever purchased. I was the lucky kid that got picked out of class for that one. It was WAY over my head! I read those pages 50+ times to the point of confusion and was like, "okay... PAGE 1. START OVER". Today I'm a tier-3 Mac specialist. Things fall into place exactly when they're supposed to, and not a moment to soon. That's why I appreciate you and your comment. I'm no different than you. Thanks again & stay tubed!
Hey Jafro, o2 location intructions say install o2 atleast 18" from turbo housing to avoid heat and incorrect readings. Did you stock instalation of the o2 prove any issues now that you have had it in there a while?
***** No issues for me. If you search around in the forums you'll find dozens of other people insisting that it works better in the factory bung because it's further up the pipe, therefore reacts more quickly to AF changes. People following the instructions included with the WB find that the narrowband simulation is useless when it's so far down the pipe. Link forums have posts insisting no adverse affects whatsoever. One person said it lent itself to shorter sensor life. I know people personally who have been using the same WB sensor for years with no problems. Hopefully I have the same luck.
Jafro, with the 3 remaining wires, do you what they connect to on the Diablo analog cable? I called Diablo, they don't know, I called innovate, they don't know.
I got a Mgasquirt 2 V3 for an older V8. It has turbos. I did get an Innovate wideband O2 sensor along with control box and display. I can't figure out the wiring. Is it OK if I pick your brain? Bill
Boost Nazi Probably so. It's dangerous territory, though. There's already a ton of great info on ECMtuning's website including tuning videos. I never intend to become the ECMtuning oracle because I can't possibly out-do the wealth of knowledge already archived there. There are many different approaches to engine management, and lots of different methods of dialing in the tune. Some people adjust airflow, some adjust timing, and some adjust fuel tables to get an engine to behave. None of those methods are wrong, but since one affects the other two no matter which one you pick, any method I demonstrate will step on 2/3 of everyone's toes. My methods also may not be as easy as the ones others use. It's dangerous territory because it's likely to start a flame war. All I can do is document what worked best for me and how I got there. That's probably going to be as in-depth as it gets. At some point when I'm confident enough with my tune, I'll post a log in the ECMtuning forums for others to play with. ;)
***** Awesome. I'm sure everyone thinks their way is best but I'd like to see your way and explanation of tuning. A basic guide to point us in the right direction to create a safe base tune is all I'd ask of you.
Jafro, thats funny you bring up the wideband in the stock location o2 housing because I always read in the directions and on "forums" that "it must" be installed 3 feet from the turbo. But in the real world, packaging concerns leave us tuners to placing it closer to the turbine housing then directed but I havnt seen any kind of issues that would leave me changing its location. It doesnt matter if its a DSM or not either, aftermarket downpipes for Subaru's have a bung right behind the turbine housing for a wideband. Its not like these things are going to overheat, i mean, they have there own heating circuit. I just thought that was interesting.
Charles Hollow It's okay if the gas is filtered 7x. Vector is twice that. Over time, cheap butane will gum up the nozzle making it hard-start and run colder. Both techs who recommended this to me had engineering degrees and a career repairing high fidelity stereo equipment (for over 30 years between them). I chose not to argue with them and felt it was good advice to pass on.
Hey Jafro, been watching you for a few years. I've learned how to overhaul my motor with your how-to's... couldn't have done it without your help. But, what are your personal thoughts on the ebay 20g turbos.... I've seen you have done old drag passes with one, if that is possible, would just slow everyday driving be sufficient? I dropped one in from CXRacing (I needed it to run as its my daily). Prior to install, I also ported the wastegate flapper hole, as well as my exhaust manifold and O2 housing. My stock BCS is only putting it at 10psi due to my stock fuel system which ill be upgrading next, and everything is fine... no shaft play and doesn't blow oil. Car runs fine, it spools fine, i have no complaints so far. I don't plan on taking it as far as you did, I do plan on dropping in a MHI center section sometime next year for confident reliability. But I figured id give this Tdo5 20g a shot for now just so I'm able to drive it to work, grocery store, and back home.
DSM jUhnky I think for the price of replacement with a bolt-on fit, you did exactly the right thing because like you said... you kept your car on the road. No matter how broke anyone is, I proved that for $224, you have enough turbo to run low-12's. It's a $224 turbo with an extra 2 1/2 seconds worth of extra airflow. Sure they're laggier than a real MHI EVO III, but they flow every bit as much air for 1/4 the price. Think of how few bolt on upgrades provide that cost per horsepower ratio. My ebay 20g has so far proven to be tough. I ran the original engine it was bolted onto at 27 PSI as hard as I could, blew that engine, and the turbo's fine. My 20g is now bolted to the Hyundai and running strong. At stock wastegate pressure (10 PSI) I'm logging a mild 270hp with it. 48% injector duty cycle with 750cc injectors. I am giving neither my fuel system or this turbo a workout, but it's still moving lots of air. Even if it's un-reliable, its cost of replacement won't even make you flinch. But I'm not trying to say it's the ultimate solution or anything... I would encourage anyone to buy a quality rebuildable bigger, quicker-spooling and more expensive turbos than this any day of the week if they can afford it. I really want to bash it because it feels like the popular thing to do... but I just can't. It doesn't cost anywhere near enough for me to be mad if it blew up. Someone else can tell you horror stories about it, but so far, I can't. 10 PSI on the Hyundai. Seriously, very streetable. It's got balls because it has more airflow in the higher RPMs, but it spools slower making it very comfortable. Of course my Hyundai setup is not your average 4g build. It's 2 whole points higher of a compression ratio with a little more lift, and longer duration cams, but that explains the 270 hp number I've logged. That injector duty cycle means I'm using 48% of 750cc capacity, or 360cc worth of fuel. I know that will increase once I've fixed my boost leaks, but that turbo's totally do-able on a stock fuel system at wastegate pressure. Go ahead and drive it! Enjoy your car!
***** Thanks for the input.. all the points you've stated have given me confidence... Again, I couldn't have done my 4g rebuild without your videos, I probably would have been lost, stuck and given up. But with your tutorials, my DSM is alive again, and I did it in my own garage without anyone around to help me... I also had fun doing it. I've learned so much, and now I'm confident I can do it all over again with ease. Much much thanks! You definitely know your stuff, and keep them coming...
I recently upgraded to SD and a WBO2 and can't seem to get my WB to read. My stock narrowband works fine. The only thing I did differently than you was make my WB power supply from an ECU pin rather than a separate fused source like you did. Did I do this wrong? This is the only thing I need to get sorted before my car's inspection so I can get it registered and on the road for the first time since I bought it in October of 2005 #4G63510
No, you didn't do that wrong. In fact, you can wire the power, ground and o2 sensor signal wires to the ECU pins, BUT, make sure the rest of whatever 5V input pin you're using has the circuit clipped and disconnected. DON'T run the engine without the o2 sensor powered and working properly because it will kill the sensor dead, and follow the calibration instructions prior to using the sensor. Make sure the gauge shares the same power and ground as the wideband controller or else it will have a voltage offset that will make it mis-read the controller signal.
I didn't opt for the gauge when I got it, but everything else should be right. I went through the calibration and setup, but I can't get the sensor to work properly in ECMLink. It only shows .80v and doesn't move. It occasionally goes into Closed Loop, but typically doesn't because of this. I have a friend coming this weekend to take a look, but I'm at a loss.
Read threads about "LC1 wideband blink 7.4" Forget that it says .80v. It's reading pig rich, and the behavior of your system is what mine just started doing last week. It's a problem with the sensor. Some people have corrected it by doing a calibration cycle, some have wired it incorrectly, and some people have a dead sensor. It's hard over the internet to tell you which issue you have, but check your installation vs. the instructions on the ECMlink web page, re-calibrate your sensor, or replace your sensor with a known-good one and I'm sure it will fix it.
Hopefully it's not the sensor. The whole system is brand new. I redid my calibration after quickly switching back to the stock O2 sensor just to check and see if things were working. I'll do some more digging and see what turns up.
Is it not ridiculous that the LC2 instruction manual calls for power to the controller to be 12V constant? Or perhaps I misunderstood when reading mine? If I understood correctly, wouldn't this have power constantly going to your o2 sensor, with it being ALWAYS heated up, ruining it as soon as the car is started?
Will Parker But... but mine doesn't? Section 2.2 wiring step 1 states 'Connect *RED* wire to a switched 12V source in your vehicle. A switched 12V source goes ON as soon as "key on" power is active.' That's why mine is plumbed into the relay I installed in Hyundai 9. That one gets switched by the radio circuit, but once switched is a straight shot at battery +.
Funky, I need to double check my instructions, I could've sworn mine stated to power the wideband on all the time. I'll go check. ***** EDIT: upon inspecting my instructions further, I realized it was in my gauge wiring table that listed the purple wire on the 5 pin plug for the gauge to receive constant power. Not the wideband controller as I had first mentioned.
12:00 I doubt that a non-conductive insulation can shield "radio frequency interference", therefore an actual shielding around the wires would be needed :)
I actually have the lc2 set up just like that. it worked great for about a month and now its stuck in warm up mode where it just flashes at 7.4 or something like that. One of these days ill get around to fixing that among the other thousand things I need to get done.
mcstracer1992 Check where you have your power tapped. I noticed (with turbo timer) that if I turned the car off and on a couple of times while the turbo timer continued to keep the car running that it stayed locked at 7.5:1. I did that today. I started commuting to work in this car, that's how much faith I'm putting in it now... I hope to get numbers at 10 PSI soon. Logging 310hp at 10 PSI. It's probably wrong. I don't believe it anyway...
***** i have it tapped into the radio harness since i was feeling a little lazy when i was installing. Its about 16 inches away from the exhaust port so hopefully i didn't overheat it and kill the heating circuit. I feel you on the daily thing. My race car is also my daily. Im not too sure how it is calculating the hp/tq numbers but i think it may just use the inputs and outputs of the engine to determine how much your putting out.
mcstracer1992 The radio circuit is where you're going wrong. The instructions actually have warnings about this, and I'm not dropping bombs or picking. Why would I? ...when I have the exact 2 videos that will help you fix it. This one, and Hyundai 9. If you gave the gauge and the controller box their own fused, dedicated, ignition-switched connection to the battery, grounded it to the ECU ground, and bypassed the factory o2 circuit entirely, then the controller's voltage and the ECU voltage will be inline, stable, and consistent enough to produce a clean signal. You may be like me, your factory o2 sensor harness may be damaged and shorting to ground, power, and both. Mine was a catastrophe, I had to cut it free from my o2 pin. Don't do that unless you rewire it like what's in Hyundai 9, and still can't get it to read anything. If the gauge says 7.5, it's flatlining. Mine does that if you interrupt its power supply during its POST routine. Your radio turning on will interrupt its power supply during the POST routine. The fluctuation in voltage from the beat will prevent it from producing a useful signal.
sound logic. I may tap into the factory 02 sensor wire as its not even connected (post cat on a catless car). The original sensor is just sitting in the bottom of my toolbox. Wire the power and ground to where the stock 02 connected and run the signal wire into the controller and the into the gauge. Or should I just create a body ground and just use the power from the 02 connector?
mcstracer1992 There is no better, more consistent, and more stable power supply than Battery +. There is no better ground for an engine sensor than the device calculating all of your other sensors. If you tap power from circuits shared with other components, remember those circuits and fuses connected to them are sized and designed for specific amounts of amperage draw. Adding components increases the burden on those circuits, and some components can cause fluctuations in voltages. Slight voltage differences in your electrical system can cause imbalances in how your sensors are read by the ECU, and that condition is called a voltage offset. If you don't run the controller parallel to the ECU's power and ground, or battery and ground, you're creating a voltage offset. Also, running long wires to the engine bay connection adds resistance. Shorter runs are better for your wideband install. If I were you, I'd buy a fuel pump rewire kit and add one wire to your battery, then make fused connections off of the heavy gauge wire and then you'll have a dedicated circuit for every aftermarket component you ever want to install. The ECU is on the MPI relay circuit. Wiring to battery + will create a stable, parallel circuit that will give you accurate readings. Other components would be on their own fuses, and could be grounded elsewhere. The heavy 8 gauge power wire can carry more than enough current for a 5A fused o2 circuit. There would be plenty of overhead for other stuff. That's why I've got mine on a separate circuit from all 3 autometer gauges. I still have an available fuse for other stuff.
Jafro need your help. Were following your build and buying same as you. Bought eprom ecu,dsmlink v3. I went to buy a innovate wideband with gauge from private seller. Before i pay I went online to double check what i was buying is the same one you bought. You never mention any specific model info. I keep finding 2 kits that look different but are sold with the same name lc2 wideband with gauge. How do i tell them apart, will both kits connect to ecm/dsmlink? Why did innovate use same name on two different kits, with no sub model to tell them apart....grrrrr. no luck on innovate site or google, i keep seeing the word lambada? Help.
Jafro I have a question for you, Water/Methanol injection and E85. Which of the two would you suggest? I finally posted my 8v on TH-cam by the way, YOU GAVE ME FAITH JAFRO! lol
Omer Dautovic I was just explaining this trick to Robert Baxley yesterday. Funny you should mention that. There are also 3-row Honda radiators that would work. :) You've been paying attention.
Can anyone clarify which pins are for a 2g? I looked it up and got 76 for the front o2 and 13 for the ground. I'm really intimidated by this electrical stuff and don't wanna screw my car up haha
Just wanted to update, those are indeed the correct pins to use for a 2g. My car is a 95 so double check if you have a 97-99 I believe the ECUs are different. Other than that, do everything the way jafro does it in this video and you'll be reading much more accurate Air ratios and simulating your useless narrowband in no time
Man, I need your help! I just installed my uego wideband. I also upgraded to v3 full. I dont have a laptop to enable it in the link. Will the car still drive, safely to my tuner about an hour an half away? Love the vids!!! Very good knowledge that's helped me many times. Thank you.
Ok I have been looking for info all over. Mods on my eclipse Walbro 255 fuel pump Fic 955cc fuel injectors 16g tdo5h turbo Freddy cat back exhaust Fuel lab pressure regulator 6 bolt engine forged bottom end and comp cams Chipped eprom ecu Ecm link v3 He also said the ECU is a 1996 Short shifter. I just got this car. The guy I got it from said it misfires after it worms up, witch it does. I get a code of p0300. I have replaced coil pack plugs and leads and I'm weighting for a new upper 02 sensor. It running lean and I'm thinking I'm starting to have a fuel problem. I'm thinking it might be the injectors or the ecm doesn't have the right map in it. What I'm wondering is if the ecmlink would be able to help me figure if it is a ecm problem?
ECMlink is garbage in, garbage out. Not likely an ECM failure at all. 6-bolt in a 2g means you don't have a crank angle sensor. OBD-II wants a crank angle sensor signal. You don't have one. Your swap is probably relying on the cam angle sensor to provide both the crank and cam angle sensor signals. A lot of people have struggled with this from this swap because the cam and crank turn at 2 different speeds. You may or may not have balance shafts, I don't know? If you don't, Kiggly makes a 6-bolt crank trigger kit that I'm using for my 6-bolt swap. The bracketry for it occupies space that the balance shaft belt normally resides in. They can't share space, so take your pick. That's the best solution, but many people have taken different approaches to this problem. Best bet is to search the forums and anything else on the internet that has "1gina2g". That's the quick track to all the old-skool info about putting a 6-bolt in a 2g.
Naulty That was only one of my "red lines". Really it was the launch control that's set to 4250 rpms... just enough to build a little boost and launch the car from a stop. It's one of the ECMlink built-in features. The engine is regulated to the lower rev limit by the ignition system so that I can floor the throttle, fully opening the throttle plate and building boost without the engine being under load. Once the car is moving, that lower rev limit lets go and lets me reach 7500, but when you're stopped it just helps you make cool noises. :)
Yeah I kinda assumed it was some sort of "anti-lag" setup for launching, considering it wasn't past 5k RPMs. But that's pretty sweet setup you've have. Thanks for taking the to reply, I look forward to seeing more videos in the future!
mitsu90 The GVR-4 is at another location, and that location is awaiting the installation of a lift. We've modified the roof for it already, and the garage door is next. Some of the things that car needs fixed right up front to pass inspection need to be done on the rack. ...though... if it takes much longer, I might break down and try to do it on jackstands. I need that car back in service especially now that it's tagged, titled and insured.
wasnt that its not recommended to install wideband sensor in factory location? the requirement in Innovate litrature is to install it down the exhaust away from too much heat to extend the sensors life. If you put in the factory location its going to run very hot.
It works fine. Lots of people do it. Having a turbo in the way and the pressure drop that follows it is apparently good enough. The disadvantage to having it mounted 2 feed past the turbo is that it reacts too slowly to A/F changes to use it for the primary o2. Being further downstream it takes longer for it to reach the sensor. There is also a heat sink adapter available for this o2 sensor if it ever does become a problem, but all the issues I've had with the o2 have been self-created, and not related to this mounting position.
When you don't use a wire. Cut the end off and make sure that the copper strands are not protruding. Then fold the end back on itself and slip a piece of shrink tubing over the folded end. Better than using electrical tape. In fact, shrink tubing is better in 99% of cases. Good vid, though.
how does one proerly change the lc 2 to e85 and properly get the afr to read actual afr...seems like no mater what i tell the lm programmer it wont work :( hmm
AllFourSpinDsm Go back 2 videos and I show the whole process start-to-finish! It works great! :) ECMtuning has supported Mac OS X since 2007. I've been doing it since 2006. Really, it's a good video. You should check it out!
Hey jafro, im going nuts here trying to figure this out. Ive got an Evo 7 ECU in my 95 GSR Lancer, now has the proper 399 MAF, and a brand new 4 wire o2 sensor. My problem is that the car leans itself out then stalls. There are no vacuum leaks that I can find. tried spraying start ya bastard around couplers, made no difference. o2 sensor is definitely working. when its in open loop it's fine, full boost flying down the track and it has no issues. But in closed loop when youre cruising on the freeway or idling, the AFR's slowly climb and climb and climb til they hit about 20, then the engine sputters and dies, or you kick the throttle and it dumps fuel in and comes back down to about 15AFR, where it idles for a while. Driving me nuts trying to figure this out, any ideas? anyone?
Olivier Thériault the stft's arent horrid, havent got any ltft yet. No vacuum leaks, exhaust is a DIY Stainless system, no cats or anything. GSR doesnt have a post cat sensor, the pre car sensor is in the Turbo dump, i replaced it with a brand new 4 wire sensor. But, looks like it's bad. Comparing my o2 readings to jafros, his fluctuates between 0.2 and 0.8. Mine is basically flat, so the car sees a rich or lean state, adds or takes fuel, sees no difference, and repeats itself, then eventually stalls. Going to run my PLX widebands simulated narrowband to the ECU tomorrow to see how it goes.
Problemo solved. Brand new o2 sensor I bought is dead. Running the simulated narrowband to the ECU from my PLX wideband and it's fine now. Now trying to figure out how to log that widdeband to my Evo 7 ECU, think I can simply run the 0-5V output to my rear o2 input though :)
First i want to say thank you for your Skill and Passion for DSM Jafromobile !! Question though , Im a Disabled Veteran" i live in Maryland " and i would love for you to look at my car ? is there any way i could pay you ? ill bring it to you or ship it, but i cannot figure out the issues with my car and i know that in under a Hr you could have it running. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU CAN HELP, Thanks Ryan Wasilewski SEMPER FI
Adam Clark I am literally going insane making it. Some cars just don't want to be fixed. I have stopped with the mechanical approach and have been forced to move on to the psychological one. Trying to convince it that it has a reason to live.
Adam Clark It's sort of like being the last of a species. It knows it will never be able to find a mate and reproduce. Going from prey to predator is something few creatures ever accomplish, and it doesn't know how to use its newfound abilities. Worse than an addict, it keeps blaming me for its lack of will to try.
Tyler Ruthenbeck It will be tomorrow morning. I'm almost done with a 2 week vacation meaning the past 2 weeks I've done nothing else other than fix [stuff] and shoot video. I was only expecting it to take a couple of days. I had road trips, fishing trips, track days and relaxation time planned but it has fought me every step of the way... to the point where I missed all of it. For a while I thought it was haunted. It did not want to be fixed. Its last bug was just found and squashed a couple of days ago and the nature of it forced me to start the whole tuning process over from scratch (in 100° temperatures). It forced me to miss my track day and the next one is 2 weeks out. The tune was finalized tonight but it's raining right now so I can't do a test hit. I can tell you it's already logged more power than my GSX ever did on a dyno at only 15 PSI... but the quantity of video I have to voiceover now as a result of all this troubleshooting is daunting. The editing is finished, but the voiceover... :facepalm:
Damn Jafro you are like a celebrity to me, I can't believe you responded I'm starstruck right now! I can't wait to see the video sir, we all appreciate your attention to detail and the best car vids on the tube. One more word is all I have to say, COLT!
Tyler Ruthenbeck Hahah. Thanks man! I'm just a regular guy (just like every celebrity or bum that isn't female) doing my thing. We're all created equally and develop according to our ability. I'm just documenting my experience so those of you driven enough to learn from others can get where you're going a little bit faster. I ordered more Colt parts just last Thursday. I can't promise it's next, but I'm still working on it.
Hey I know you have projects out the wazoo all I'm saying is the colt has been waiting patiently for years, it deserves some love man! With that being said I'll watch whatever video you decide to make, and I'll enjoy the heck out of it! I don't even own a dsm nor do I ever intend to but I don't see your videos as a dsm thing, rather a general awesome car thing. Keep up the good work Jafro and give rojodelchocolate my best! One more thing man, in the colt Playlist why is "Making the Right one jealous" private? I need too see it!
Tyler Ruthenbeck Are you in the USA? Because it's not actually private. It just has a DJ food song in the audio track and it's supposed to be restricted in some countries, but I can watch it in the U.S. on other people's computers. Not mobile devices, but computers.
old ecu? 18:23 sounds like no cold start/cold idle/no choke them cold mornings when you have to manually keep it alive by treating it like a carby and pumping the gas pedal lol 19:50 that idle haha you soo need a link G4 ecu www.linkecu.com/
And then 2 Days Later your sensor dies and then you buy a new one and then three weeks later it dies again and then innovate tells you there's no issue with it
anyone have a 8 ft sensor cable and want to trade foe the 3 ft I have the stupid innovative put a 3 ft cable on my 3844 and it's label as 3844 not 3845 who comes with 3 ft 😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠 I need help not Goin to pay 50.00 plus shipping for something should be correct with my 3844
and I just open it after 3 months I bought it from wholesale performance on ebay I sent few messages about this and the crap wholesale performance don't reply what a shity company
Scott D I'm sorry. Jafro has overdosed on Jafro. Jafro needs Jafro rehab. I'm sorry I hogged all the Jafro and used him up. Jafro has created 16 flippin' hours of video, which I have managed to squish down to only 34 minutes, and it takes an hour a minute to make the audio track. After that, there's usually 2-3 hours of overlays, and a full day of exporting. Jafro is either filming or editing, but he can't do both at once. : \ Google doesn't pay enough for me to hire somebody who can do either one. : / : \ : | :C
***** jafro i know you are a busy man i watched your behind the scenes video. so i have an idea of how long it takes you to make these amazing videos. just there are 2 shows i want to see on the ol YT you and roadkill and my good sir you take the cake your high quality takes time so i will have to scratch for now. now send jafro to rehad and leave some jafro crack for the rest of the fiends!!!
Innovate LC-2. - Гавно! Мое личное мнение. За период эксплуатации Требовала постоянной калибровки. Два раза замены сенсора. Замены провода. И в итоге ошибка 3 . Которую не получилось победить. 220$ - лямда. Сенсор - 80$ Сенсор - 40$ (Китай) Провод - 30$ И все в пи…Ду ! @ Kharkiv Oblast
s0nnyburnett You should get one and be the first. If you can get a first gen sCoupe, the engine, chassis and electrical components are exactly the same as the J1 Elantra.
s0nnyburnett I found 3 in Jersey. They pop up occasionally on Craigslist. I'd have one if my county wasn't already threatening me with thousands of dollars of fines for the cars I already own.
***** Thus your comment to register the Hyundai as soon as possible. I'm sorry your county is on you. They should check out your TH-cam channel. It would endear most people to you even if they didn't get cars like enthusiasts do.
Nice video Jafro. I usually connect the wideband in the factory O2 wiring plug. I cut the factory front or rear O2 sensor, then solder the wideband wires in the fatory plug. From then I got the ground, 12v, and ECU signal runing trough the original wiring. In the future if its needed I can just unplug the wideband and plug a new narrowband back againd. Keep the great work. Special thanks from all the brazilians DSMers.
Marcelo Izumi That is definitely one good way to do it. After all, all that stuff is grounded and connected to the same ECU pins. The person whom I seek help from for my tuning did it that way and I strongly considered it. I do like doing things the easy way occasionally, but on this particular install, I'm glad I didn't. I would have fried my brand new wideband sensor that way if I did because the controller box is not internally fused. I'm not criticizing that method because it's something that would have happened *only to me*, while working fine for everyone else, and I documented it in the description. My o2 sensor was broken not because it was a bad sensor, but because my wiring harness failed. While trying to remove my o2 sensor, sparks shot across my garage from several locations in o2 sensor harness, through the insulation. It never did that before. All I had to do was touch it to make that happen. I didn't know that it had been spliced and repaired a dozen times prior to my troubleshooting episode, and that it was made from several poorly insulated lengths of different wires soldered together. It was really bad. If someone was doing this install on a car with a good harness, it would have worked beautifully, but like I said, it would have happened only to me. I'm still chasing down several gremlins with my tuning and suspect the o2 circuit isn't the only one I'm having problems with.
Really appreciate your vids. Just followed this install but on my 95 DSM. Also for perspective I’m grateful I don’t have that buried O2!
Yes, the almost instant soldering and heat shrink capabilities of the Power Probe soldering kit are worth every inflated dollar - even in 2022. Thanks again Jafro!
Jafro you are an intelligent man. This car would drive me crazy by now. Keep up the great work
Juan Lopez Just to let you know... this car is driving an intelligent man crazy. It really doesn't want to be fixed and keeps trying to find new ways to tell me that.
***** 2 words. (Colt. Project.)
***** I love you way to keep reaffirming that "no" is not an option to that car. Keep it up man. You're very inspirational.
Very thorough. I really appreciate the showing of the installation instructions. When my customer dropped his unit off, he managed to forget to put them back in the box.
I've watched most every video you've put out at least once. Keep these videos coming we love them
InstaBlaster
Heh. Don't worry about wasting 7 seconds. Some of us need the repetition to help pound in the lessons. I'm still at the level of trying to figure out why that "battery" thing isn't getting charged by the, um, "engine" thing in my 1G, but videos like this one inspire me to keep learning. On the bright side, since the battery is charged each night from a wall socket, I'm going to claim that I have a 4G63 + electric hybrid. Thanks for the ongoing inspiration, Jafro.
William Dye Good news for you then... I plan to re-visit the GM alternator install in another video in the near future. It will include everything you need to know about how to fix your particular issue. I'm sorry it's not ready yet. It's centered around the GM alternator, but it will cover the pin-outs of the factory harness and common mistakes made when installing non-factory alternators. Mistakes that are easily avoided. It explains what PLFS and B means. DSMs only have 3 of those. 2 of them are unnecessary on DSMs... but 9 times out of 10 if a good alternator isn't charging, it's a ground problem. ;) Once you add a GM part to the mix, it's usually that as well as a pulley problem. The factory GM pulley is just too dang big. Spins too slow.
I love to see you mess up the shrink tubing. Always made me feel stupid. Glad I am not the only one, although I do wish you never forget in the future!
I did this 2x in a row on some copper tubing, lol. Head in the clouds I left off the locking nut twice : (. Worst part was that caused me to need more tubing, which we didn't have and we were at a remote location in Alaska.
Great video. I subscribed because it's so helpful!
That moment when the "tubing stretcher" joke is funny not funny.
Thank you Jafro for blessing my Saturday night with another awesome video, by the way ever since you told me about your race with the 8v Volkswagen I've been saving up for goodies for mine! Hopefully I'll post videos of it in a few months! Thank you Jafro!
Jafro I would highly recommend picking up the Innovate heatsink extender bung for the sensor when used in the front o2 location. From my experience with this same setup, I went through a sensor about every 4-6 months or so, the heat kills them. Once I bit the bullet and bought the heatsink I haven't burned up a sensor in 2 years. Great work as always, chooch it!
I think I just killed my first one. And then we cheeched.
You bessent!
Yeah he did!
Johnson!
I must ask what year is your car?
EVERYTHING IS MORE FUN WHEN YOU HAVE STRIPPERS!
Nice work. I had the same soldering kit, works great after years of tip oxidation, tip filing, tinning the tip again, getting burned,....
That power probe butane soldering iron is amazing I have 2. 1 stays in my garage and one stays in my box at work. Best 35 bucks i have ever spent
My motor is in a of tonight. Just praying machine shop did there job well. Follower of all your tips and tricks. I'll let you know how the start up goes. Thanks bro. I need link v3 and wideband after 500 miles so keep them coming. Going to have to look for your v3 and map mod videos.
I see wiki link. Will Check that out as well.
Jafro i would like to say youve been an inspiration. your wealth of knowledge throughout the rebuild of the Hyundai has been awesome and very very loaded with info. Though my engine i will be rebuilding isnt the same alot of what you have shown is shared knowledge.
Also your patience and drive is astounding, its something im really working on but find so hard to have the same patience with difficult parts that you seem to have.
Narrowband sensor
When running an LC-1 wideband, you can simply enable narrowband simulation in ECMLink and use nothing but the LC-1's analog output for both wideband data and narrowband closed-loop operation.
However, if you have the option of running both a wideband sensor and a narrowband sensor, considering doing so. This is probably more common on a 2G where you can run the narrowband sensor to the factory Front O2 pin while logging the wideband sensor on the factory Rear O2 pin, but there are enough inputs on a 1G to do the same thing.
The advantage to running a factory narrowband is that you get a good data point for checking up on the LC-1's calibration. The narrowband sensor is going to switch around stoichiometric. It's really good at that. So as long as you're running in closed loop operation using the factory narrowband sensor, you should see an LC-1 logged value of about stoich as well.
It's not a big deal either way, though. So don't go out of your way to make it happen. If it's convenient, great, give it a shot. If it's not, don't worry about it.
Great wiring job. I've been eyeing a butane version since I have a lot of butane gadgets and refill canisters. Those little suckers are awesome. Just helped me decide to go ahead and get one. You can do plastic welding with them too which I plan on making a video on eventually.
Kindda motivated me to install the lc-2 I have laying around here but I was thinking of picking up an aem uego since I like the gauge better. Anyway still loving the update.
5FaLlEn5 If you install your wiring connections the way I did mine... the UEGO will be plug-n-play if you don't like the LC2. An ugly wideband is better than no wideband at all. ; )
I love your new soldering iron. Going to have to pick up one of these. You made short work of the installation and setup.
I really would like to know what your RWHP is before and after you start tuning. My curiosity on how much the wideband will help you is overwhelming.
I know, dyno time is expensive but it sure would be nice to see the performance differences.
Good luck with the tune and thanks again for producing a very comprehensive ECM installation video. I like it.
Running E85 on weekends would be cool too!
Cheers
Jafro, thanks for all your information.. I was getting incredibly frustrated why my lc1 was calibrating to 7.4 and finally when I saw your free air calibration went to 22.4 I had so much inspiration to go through the wiring and check it out. I fixed the problem, the DB gauge and the controller BOTH need to be on the same voltage or ELSE.. Not sure wire, maybe the voltage just needs to be like that or lc1 is useless.. But now after months of WONDERING why my gauge NEVER worked especially after I recently replaced my sensor .. I got to it due to this video. HOWEVER, when I went into ECMLink and followed your set up, my WB isn't reading on ECMLINK now.. LOL.. Guess there's more hairs to pull out.. Anyway you could help me out with that? God bless you brother, you are truly amazing! WISH YOU HAD A FACEBOOK SO I COULD ADD YOU!
+josh goot This advice is a long-shot, but one that causes the exact same symptoms you described. Gauge works fine now, right? Reads correctly when driving? Wired properly, input pin assignments selected, values added, simulate narrowband o2 selected, still doesn't read properly in ECMlink? Right?
If you left your o2 circuit in-tact and just ADDED the wire to the ECU pin like I showed in the video, rather than cut the original o2 circuit out of the equation... then the problem on your o2 circuit might be a short in the original o2 circuit. That was my problem. I found it when I touched the harness with the engine running and sparks shot 6 feet out the engine bay from the o2 harness. Dead giveaway... but if you're installnig the LC in place of a factory o2 circuit that wasn't working right, you don't need the factory o2 circuit in the mix.
+Jafromobile when I calibrated mine, it was at 7.8 in the open air. I cannot figure out what's wrong, or if this is right?!?
gauge power and controller power on different circuits?
I have a LC1 and i haven't had to recalibrate it since i installed it like a year ago.
it still reads the same idle and WOT air/fuel ratios.
it is on a carbureted 350ci SBC though
love that launch control sound
Arno Deinum ...on an AWD car, I love that launch control FEEL. ; )
Haven't figured out the FWD launch on this car yet. Last build was at full boost by 2500 RPMs and smoked the tires with or without it. Hopefully the bigger turbo helps with that (lag).
love it cant wait
***** opendiff? i had a fwd pulsar with a sr20det open diff and traction was horrible.
Love your videos. Always give you a thumbs up. do have to say i disagree with the comment about the sponge cleaning method leads to tip failure. As long as the tip is properly tinned, the sponge is just fine. I have used tips over 6months per soldering more everyday than most folks do in a year. the tips always last and are shiny after tinned. If you contaminate the tip and get dark spots on it. it will eat itself eventually. other than that either method is fine for cleaning the tip. Awesome vid. cant wait to see this little beast on the road.
Rhage73 I'm just one of those occasionally-soldering guys who buys nicer soldering irons than he deserves and lets it sit for long intervals between uses. My infrequent-use tip-contaminating ways have killed a few good irons. But oh man, I'm spoiled once I use it. The brass cleaner only idiot-proofs the process for the negligent people like me. ;)
=) just don't contaminate the tip and then clean it in the brass cleaner, then all tips from hence forth will suffer the same fate. Electronics are my living and have been since the early 90's, guess i just had to throw my two cents in there. Not knocking you at all, your videos are outstanding and among the best H2 or DIY on the web, and have more detailed information than the rest of them combined, complete with part numbers, tools needed and video footage of how you get er done. Love it. Someone so meticulous is a rare thing these days.
Welp, thanks for this video. I took a glance as I was throwing the WB in last night and realized I had mine installed wrong for more than 4 years. Lesson learned now let's tune the hyundai and make it rain in those intercooler pipes!
It's okay to splice power, ground, narrowband straight into the ECU pins. In fact, it's probably better to do it that way. Holy cow, did I really just get a comment from the rare and elusive BoostedBeaver?!?
It was the ground that got me. I ran it off a random bolt for years and ran the harness last night to do the same. After skimming through the video and a little reading, I'll be changing where one wire goes today. Thanks again and I'll make it more of a habit to leave comments on these wonderful pieces of entertainment you create. Maybe if the moon's align, the Hyundai can have a re match this year?
ground it off the same circuit you get power from... but if you want to avoid having any voltage offset between the WB controller and the ECU, use the ECU power pin 105 and the ECU ground. ;) I tried to avoid doing that, but ended up doing that later. I wanted to make sure it was bomb proof before sending you logs.
Nice! I just picked up a link for my 2g build(p/o was a megasquirt lover). I'll be doing exactly this. Thanks jafro.
You often hear People ask - "Who would you like to have a one to one with?"
Well my answer would be "Jafro"
It would be in a Pub with several beers and lots of chatting and listening. :-)
Bevoin1970 You'll get your wish someday. The UK is on my bucket list. I'm unlikely to partake in a stodgy pre-packaged tour. I prefer the hospitality of the locals over anything like that. Watching your videos, I'm starting to feel like I might even be able to find my way around. lol! Thank you for those, BTW...
Aw sick! A new jafro vid right before bedtime
+Jafromobile. Do you have any experience with Evoscan ? I fitted an lc2 wideband inplace of my factory o2 sensor in the turbo elbow on my evo2 gsr. In your video you can simulate the narrowband with ecmlink which I cannot with evoscan. Do you have any idea how I would do it ? I have the lc2 wired into the ecu lambda pin out for logging purposes. I'm stuck trying to figure out how the ecu will get a signal it recognises as it is used to a narrowband signal. Thanks in advance.
so in the end what is the voltage switch point supposed to be for an LC2? Link auto filled mine to 2.49V
That's what I need to know and all your vdo are great man thanks for your sharing
Jafro, I'm trying to log my wideband in ecmlink V3. The previous owner installed it in the rear 02 location. My issue is that in the Wideband drop box, there is no option for rear 02.
Also, with the factory sensor in the front location, would this mean that I do not have to simulate my narrowband?
Thanks!
Hello I can't get my B sensor to calibrate it has lines showing. I see at 11:03 you connect white and yellow? It doesn't tell you this in the Manuel? I thought the white gets grounded?
Look on forums
Love your videos, thanks for sharing, although I don't understand any of it, they're still fun to watch.
Duncan Mac Thank you for your patronage, and if this is something you want, just keep watching and fake it until you make it. When I was 9, I read the first 25 pages of the "Getting Started With Machine Language" that shipped with the first Apple ][+ computer that Henrico County Public Schools ever purchased. I was the lucky kid that got picked out of class for that one. It was WAY over my head! I read those pages 50+ times to the point of confusion and was like, "okay... PAGE 1. START OVER". Today I'm a tier-3 Mac specialist. Things fall into place exactly when they're supposed to, and not a moment to soon. That's why I appreciate you and your comment. I'm no different than you. Thanks again & stay tubed!
Hey Jafro, o2 location intructions say install o2 atleast 18" from turbo housing to avoid heat and incorrect readings. Did you stock instalation of the o2 prove any issues now that you have had it in there a while?
***** No issues for me. If you search around in the forums you'll find dozens of other people insisting that it works better in the factory bung because it's further up the pipe, therefore reacts more quickly to AF changes. People following the instructions included with the WB find that the narrowband simulation is useless when it's so far down the pipe. Link forums have posts insisting no adverse affects whatsoever. One person said it lent itself to shorter sensor life. I know people personally who have been using the same WB sensor for years with no problems. Hopefully I have the same luck.
Nice. L C2 and dsm link going in this weekend. Sitting on my desk staring at me. Going to catch up to you. What's next on your list?
Jafro, with the 3 remaining wires, do you what they connect to on the Diablo analog cable? I called Diablo, they don't know, I called innovate, they don't know.
I got a Mgasquirt 2 V3 for an older V8. It has turbos. I did get an Innovate wideband O2 sensor along with control box and display. I can't figure out the wiring. Is it OK if I pick your brain? Bill
Powerprobe!! That's me! Thanks for the shout out Jafro
Will you do an in depth ecmlink tuning video in the future?
Boost Nazi Probably so. It's dangerous territory, though. There's already a ton of great info on ECMtuning's website including tuning videos. I never intend to become the ECMtuning oracle because I can't possibly out-do the wealth of knowledge already archived there. There are many different approaches to engine management, and lots of different methods of dialing in the tune. Some people adjust airflow, some adjust timing, and some adjust fuel tables to get an engine to behave. None of those methods are wrong, but since one affects the other two no matter which one you pick, any method I demonstrate will step on 2/3 of everyone's toes. My methods also may not be as easy as the ones others use. It's dangerous territory because it's likely to start a flame war. All I can do is document what worked best for me and how I got there. That's probably going to be as in-depth as it gets. At some point when I'm confident enough with my tune, I'll post a log in the ECMtuning forums for others to play with. ;)
***** Awesome. I'm sure everyone thinks their way is best but I'd like to see your way and explanation of tuning. A basic guide to point us in the right direction to create a safe base tune is all I'd ask of you.
Jafro, thats funny you bring up the wideband in the stock location o2 housing because I always read in the directions and on "forums" that "it must" be installed 3 feet from the turbo.
But in the real world, packaging concerns leave us tuners to placing it closer to the turbine housing then directed but I havnt seen any kind of issues that would leave me changing its location. It doesnt matter if its a DSM or not either, aftermarket downpipes for Subaru's have a bung right behind the turbine housing for a wideband. Its not like these things are going to overheat, i mean, they have there own heating circuit. I just thought that was interesting.
i have the same torque wrench and soldering iron as you...subbed.
Sorry about asking but when is there more video"s? :) Cant wait.. need my jafro fix!
Why do you have to use vector gas for the powerprobe? I filled mine with Ronson ultra butane, and it seems fine so far.
Charles Hollow It's okay if the gas is filtered 7x. Vector is twice that. Over time, cheap butane will gum up the nozzle making it hard-start and run colder. Both techs who recommended this to me had engineering degrees and a career repairing high fidelity stereo equipment (for over 30 years between them). I chose not to argue with them and felt it was good advice to pass on.
Fair enough. Thanks for the explanation!
Hey Jafro, been watching you for a few years. I've learned how to overhaul my motor with your how-to's... couldn't have done it without your help. But, what are your personal thoughts on the ebay 20g turbos.... I've seen you have done old drag passes with one, if that is possible, would just slow everyday driving be sufficient? I dropped one in from CXRacing (I needed it to run as its my daily). Prior to install, I also ported the wastegate flapper hole, as well as my exhaust manifold and O2 housing. My stock BCS is only putting it at 10psi due to my stock fuel system which ill be upgrading next, and everything is fine... no shaft play and doesn't blow oil. Car runs fine, it spools fine, i have no complaints so far. I don't plan on taking it as far as you did, I do plan on dropping in a MHI center section sometime next year for confident reliability. But I figured id give this Tdo5 20g a shot for now just so I'm able to drive it to work, grocery store, and back home.
DSM jUhnky I think for the price of replacement with a bolt-on fit, you did exactly the right thing because like you said... you kept your car on the road. No matter how broke anyone is, I proved that for $224, you have enough turbo to run low-12's. It's a $224 turbo with an extra 2 1/2 seconds worth of extra airflow. Sure they're laggier than a real MHI EVO III, but they flow every bit as much air for 1/4 the price. Think of how few bolt on upgrades provide that cost per horsepower ratio. My ebay 20g has so far proven to be tough. I ran the original engine it was bolted onto at 27 PSI as hard as I could, blew that engine, and the turbo's fine. My 20g is now bolted to the Hyundai and running strong. At stock wastegate pressure (10 PSI) I'm logging a mild 270hp with it. 48% injector duty cycle with 750cc injectors. I am giving neither my fuel system or this turbo a workout, but it's still moving lots of air. Even if it's un-reliable, its cost of replacement won't even make you flinch.
But I'm not trying to say it's the ultimate solution or anything... I would encourage anyone to buy a quality rebuildable bigger, quicker-spooling and more expensive turbos than this any day of the week if they can afford it. I really want to bash it because it feels like the popular thing to do... but I just can't. It doesn't cost anywhere near enough for me to be mad if it blew up. Someone else can tell you horror stories about it, but so far, I can't.
10 PSI on the Hyundai. Seriously, very streetable. It's got balls because it has more airflow in the higher RPMs, but it spools slower making it very comfortable. Of course my Hyundai setup is not your average 4g build. It's 2 whole points higher of a compression ratio with a little more lift, and longer duration cams, but that explains the 270 hp number I've logged. That injector duty cycle means I'm using 48% of 750cc capacity, or 360cc worth of fuel. I know that will increase once I've fixed my boost leaks, but that turbo's totally do-able on a stock fuel system at wastegate pressure. Go ahead and drive it! Enjoy your car!
***** Thanks for the input.. all the points you've stated have given me confidence... Again, I couldn't have done my 4g rebuild without your videos, I probably would have been lost, stuck and given up. But with your tutorials, my DSM is alive again, and I did it in my own garage without anyone around to help me... I also had fun doing it. I've learned so much, and now I'm confident I can do it all over again with ease. Much much thanks! You definitely know your stuff, and keep them coming...
I recently upgraded to SD and a WBO2 and can't seem to get my WB to read. My stock narrowband works fine. The only thing I did differently than you was make my WB power supply from an ECU pin rather than a separate fused source like you did. Did I do this wrong? This is the only thing I need to get sorted before my car's inspection so I can get it registered and on the road for the first time since I bought it in October of 2005 #4G63510
No, you didn't do that wrong. In fact, you can wire the power, ground and o2 sensor signal wires to the ECU pins, BUT, make sure the rest of whatever 5V input pin you're using has the circuit clipped and disconnected. DON'T run the engine without the o2 sensor powered and working properly because it will kill the sensor dead, and follow the calibration instructions prior to using the sensor. Make sure the gauge shares the same power and ground as the wideband controller or else it will have a voltage offset that will make it mis-read the controller signal.
I didn't opt for the gauge when I got it, but everything else should be right. I went through the calibration and setup, but I can't get the sensor to work properly in ECMLink. It only shows .80v and doesn't move. It occasionally goes into Closed Loop, but typically doesn't because of this. I have a friend coming this weekend to take a look, but I'm at a loss.
Read threads about "LC1 wideband blink 7.4" Forget that it says .80v. It's reading pig rich, and the behavior of your system is what mine just started doing last week. It's a problem with the sensor. Some people have corrected it by doing a calibration cycle, some have wired it incorrectly, and some people have a dead sensor. It's hard over the internet to tell you which issue you have, but check your installation vs. the instructions on the ECMlink web page, re-calibrate your sensor, or replace your sensor with a known-good one and I'm sure it will fix it.
Hopefully it's not the sensor. The whole system is brand new. I redid my calibration after quickly switching back to the stock O2 sensor just to check and see if things were working. I'll do some more digging and see what turns up.
Is it not ridiculous that the LC2 instruction manual calls for power to the controller to be 12V constant? Or perhaps I misunderstood when reading mine? If I understood correctly, wouldn't this have power constantly going to your o2 sensor, with it being ALWAYS heated up, ruining it as soon as the car is started?
Will Parker But... but mine doesn't? Section 2.2 wiring step 1 states 'Connect *RED* wire to a switched 12V source in your vehicle. A switched 12V source goes ON as soon as "key on" power is active.'
That's why mine is plumbed into the relay I installed in Hyundai 9. That one gets switched by the radio circuit, but once switched is a straight shot at battery +.
Funky, I need to double check my instructions, I could've sworn mine stated to power the wideband on all the time. I'll go check. *****
EDIT: upon inspecting my instructions further, I realized it was in my gauge wiring table that listed the purple wire on the 5 pin plug for the gauge to receive constant power. Not the wideband controller as I had first mentioned.
12:00 I doubt that a non-conductive insulation can shield "radio frequency interference", therefore an actual shielding around the wires would be needed :)
I actually have the lc2 set up just like that. it worked great for about a month and now its stuck in warm up mode where it just flashes at 7.4 or something like that. One of these days ill get around to fixing that among the other thousand things I need to get done.
mcstracer1992 Check where you have your power tapped. I noticed (with turbo timer) that if I turned the car off and on a couple of times while the turbo timer continued to keep the car running that it stayed locked at 7.5:1. I did that today. I started commuting to work in this car, that's how much faith I'm putting in it now... I hope to get numbers at 10 PSI soon. Logging 310hp at 10 PSI. It's probably wrong. I don't believe it anyway...
***** i have it tapped into the radio harness since i was feeling a little lazy when i was installing. Its about 16 inches away from the exhaust port so hopefully i didn't overheat it and kill the heating circuit. I feel you on the daily thing. My race car is also my daily. Im not too sure how it is calculating the hp/tq numbers but i think it may just use the inputs and outputs of the engine to determine how much your putting out.
mcstracer1992 The radio circuit is where you're going wrong. The instructions actually have warnings about this, and I'm not dropping bombs or picking. Why would I? ...when I have the exact 2 videos that will help you fix it. This one, and Hyundai 9. If you gave the gauge and the controller box their own fused, dedicated, ignition-switched connection to the battery, grounded it to the ECU ground, and bypassed the factory o2 circuit entirely, then the controller's voltage and the ECU voltage will be inline, stable, and consistent enough to produce a clean signal. You may be like me, your factory o2 sensor harness may be damaged and shorting to ground, power, and both. Mine was a catastrophe, I had to cut it free from my o2 pin. Don't do that unless you rewire it like what's in Hyundai 9, and still can't get it to read anything. If the gauge says 7.5, it's flatlining. Mine does that if you interrupt its power supply during its POST routine. Your radio turning on will interrupt its power supply during the POST routine. The fluctuation in voltage from the beat will prevent it from producing a useful signal.
sound logic. I may tap into the factory 02 sensor wire as its not even connected (post cat on a catless car). The original sensor is just sitting in the bottom of my toolbox. Wire the power and ground to where the stock 02 connected and run the signal wire into the controller and the into the gauge. Or should I just create a body ground and just use the power from the 02 connector?
mcstracer1992 There is no better, more consistent, and more stable power supply than Battery +. There is no better ground for an engine sensor than the device calculating all of your other sensors. If you tap power from circuits shared with other components, remember those circuits and fuses connected to them are sized and designed for specific amounts of amperage draw. Adding components increases the burden on those circuits, and some components can cause fluctuations in voltages. Slight voltage differences in your electrical system can cause imbalances in how your sensors are read by the ECU, and that condition is called a voltage offset. If you don't run the controller parallel to the ECU's power and ground, or battery and ground, you're creating a voltage offset. Also, running long wires to the engine bay connection adds resistance. Shorter runs are better for your wideband install.
If I were you, I'd buy a fuel pump rewire kit and add one wire to your battery, then make fused connections off of the heavy gauge wire and then you'll have a dedicated circuit for every aftermarket component you ever want to install. The ECU is on the MPI relay circuit. Wiring to battery + will create a stable, parallel circuit that will give you accurate readings. Other components would be on their own fuses, and could be grounded elsewhere. The heavy 8 gauge power wire can carry more than enough current for a 5A fused o2 circuit. There would be plenty of overhead for other stuff. That's why I've got mine on a separate circuit from all 3 autometer gauges. I still have an available fuse for other stuff.
Jafro need your help. Were following your build and buying same as you. Bought eprom ecu,dsmlink v3. I went to buy a innovate wideband with gauge from private seller. Before i pay I went online to double check what i was buying is the same one you bought. You never mention any specific model info. I keep finding 2 kits that look different but are sold with the same name lc2 wideband with gauge. How do i tell them apart, will both kits connect to ecm/dsmlink? Why did innovate use same name on two different kits, with no sub model to tell them apart....grrrrr. no luck on innovate site or google, i keep seeing the word lambada? Help.
***** www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc2.php VS www.ecmtuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=60
jafro you are the best i didn't know that there were pin tools like that got some on order haha
Jafro I have a question for you, Water/Methanol injection and E85. Which of the two would you suggest? I finally posted my 8v on TH-cam by the way, YOU GAVE ME FAITH JAFRO! lol
How do you find the right wire to hook in the ecu?
Do you have a link for the soldering iron?
Maybe you can use a scirocco radiator to help clear up some space between the radiator support and front of the engine.
Omer Dautovic I was just explaining this trick to Robert Baxley yesterday. Funny you should mention that. There are also 3-row Honda radiators that would work. :) You've been paying attention.
Can anyone clarify which pins are for a 2g? I looked it up and got 76 for the front o2 and 13 for the ground. I'm really intimidated by this electrical stuff and don't wanna screw my car up haha
Just wanted to update, those are indeed the correct pins to use for a 2g. My car is a 95 so double check if you have a 97-99 I believe the ECUs are different. Other than that, do everything the way jafro does it in this video and you'll be reading much more accurate Air ratios and simulating your useless narrowband in no time
Man, I need your help! I just installed my uego wideband. I also upgraded to v3 full. I dont have a laptop to enable it in the link. Will the car still drive, safely to my tuner about an hour an half away? Love the vids!!! Very good knowledge that's helped me many times. Thank you.
jafro get a b series civic so i can follow you around on my build too... i love these videos
can't wait for new videos!!!
Ok I have been looking for info all over. Mods on my eclipse
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Fic 955cc fuel injectors
16g tdo5h turbo
Freddy cat back exhaust
Fuel lab pressure regulator
6 bolt engine forged bottom end and comp cams
Chipped eprom ecu
Ecm link v3
He also said the ECU is a 1996
Short shifter. I just got this car. The guy I got it from said it misfires after it worms up, witch it does. I get a code of p0300. I have replaced coil pack plugs and leads and I'm weighting for a new upper 02 sensor. It running lean and I'm thinking I'm starting to have a fuel problem. I'm thinking it might be the injectors or the ecm doesn't have the right map in it. What I'm wondering is if the ecmlink would be able to help me figure if it is a ecm problem?
ECMlink is garbage in, garbage out. Not likely an ECM failure at all. 6-bolt in a 2g means you don't have a crank angle sensor. OBD-II wants a crank angle sensor signal. You don't have one. Your swap is probably relying on the cam angle sensor to provide both the crank and cam angle sensor signals. A lot of people have struggled with this from this swap because the cam and crank turn at 2 different speeds. You may or may not have balance shafts, I don't know? If you don't, Kiggly makes a 6-bolt crank trigger kit that I'm using for my 6-bolt swap. The bracketry for it occupies space that the balance shaft belt normally resides in. They can't share space, so take your pick. That's the best solution, but many people have taken different approaches to this problem. Best bet is to search the forums and anything else on the internet that has "1gina2g". That's the quick track to all the old-skool info about putting a 6-bolt in a 2g.
Balanced shaft he just said it's got a forged crank. If it's this kit your talking about is there info on dsmtunner?
Jafro can has redline? 20:40 rules..
Naulty That was only one of my "red lines". Really it was the launch control that's set to 4250 rpms... just enough to build a little boost and launch the car from a stop. It's one of the ECMlink built-in features. The engine is regulated to the lower rev limit by the ignition system so that I can floor the throttle, fully opening the throttle plate and building boost without the engine being under load. Once the car is moving, that lower rev limit lets go and lets me reach 7500, but when you're stopped it just helps you make cool noises. :)
Yeah I kinda assumed it was some sort of "anti-lag" setup for launching, considering it wasn't past 5k RPMs. But that's pretty sweet setup you've have. Thanks for taking the to reply, I look forward to seeing more videos in the future!
Any plans for future gvr4 videos?
mitsu90 The GVR-4 is at another location, and that location is awaiting the installation of a lift. We've modified the roof for it already, and the garage door is next. Some of the things that car needs fixed right up front to pass inspection need to be done on the rack. ...though... if it takes much longer, I might break down and try to do it on jackstands. I need that car back in service especially now that it's tagged, titled and insured.
Can't wait. As a gvr4 owner I love seeing galant videos.
***** nice i'd love to see more of the GR4 also:), I know your have time/money constraints just like the rest of us tho.
wasnt that its not recommended to install wideband sensor in factory location? the requirement in Innovate litrature is to install it down the exhaust away from too much heat to extend the sensors life. If you put in the factory location its going to run very hot.
It works fine. Lots of people do it. Having a turbo in the way and the pressure drop that follows it is apparently good enough. The disadvantage to having it mounted 2 feed past the turbo is that it reacts too slowly to A/F changes to use it for the primary o2. Being further downstream it takes longer for it to reach the sensor. There is also a heat sink adapter available for this o2 sensor if it ever does become a problem, but all the issues I've had with the o2 have been self-created, and not related to this mounting position.
jafro thanks for the video im always learn somthing even single tips thanks men #1 fan here
When you don't use a wire. Cut the end off and make sure that the copper strands are not protruding. Then fold the end back on itself and slip a piece of shrink tubing over the folded end. Better than using electrical tape. In fact, shrink tubing is better in 99% of cases. Good vid, though.
how does one proerly change the lc 2 to e85 and properly get the afr to read actual afr...seems like no mater what i tell the lm programmer it wont work :( hmm
You and me both, buddy. Mine reads lean compared to my midpipe (precat) wideband.
How in the dickens did you get your Mac to work with Link!???!?!!!?
AllFourSpinDsm Go back 2 videos and I show the whole process start-to-finish! It works great! :) ECMtuning has supported Mac OS X since 2007. I've been doing it since 2006. Really, it's a good video. You should check it out!
Great Video Jafromobile!!!!!
Will you please do a video on tuning speed density :)
Jafrooooo.. When are you going to dyno this beauty?.. It's been a month already ;) no rush haha
Awsome work jafro !!!!!
cant wait for the next video :)
vid was a major help thx
You need to rename this so it can be found as part of the series
Hey jafro, im going nuts here trying to figure this out.
Ive got an Evo 7 ECU in my 95 GSR Lancer, now has the proper 399 MAF, and a brand new 4 wire o2 sensor.
My problem is that the car leans itself out then stalls.
There are no vacuum leaks that I can find. tried spraying start ya bastard around couplers, made no difference. o2 sensor is definitely working. when its in open loop it's fine, full boost flying down the track and it has no issues. But in closed loop when youre cruising on the freeway or idling, the AFR's slowly climb and climb and climb til they hit about 20, then the engine sputters and dies, or you kick the throttle and it dumps fuel in and comes back down to about 15AFR, where it idles for a while.
Driving me nuts trying to figure this out, any ideas? anyone?
How does the ltft and the stft look when it lean himself? Kinda look like a vacuum leak, or a clogged cat(post or pre cat o2 sensor you changed?)
Olivier Thériault the stft's arent horrid, havent got any ltft yet. No vacuum leaks, exhaust is a DIY Stainless system, no cats or anything. GSR doesnt have a post cat sensor, the pre car sensor is in the Turbo dump, i replaced it with a brand new 4 wire sensor. But, looks like it's bad. Comparing my o2 readings to jafros, his fluctuates between 0.2 and 0.8. Mine is basically flat, so the car sees a rich or lean state, adds or takes fuel, sees no difference, and repeats itself, then eventually stalls.
Going to run my PLX widebands simulated narrowband to the ECU tomorrow to see how it goes.
Try adding propane in the throttlebody and see if it will go rich. Stft should compensate when the o2 is either lean or rich, does it?
Problemo solved. Brand new o2 sensor I bought is dead. Running the simulated narrowband to the ECU from my PLX wideband and it's fine now.
Now trying to figure out how to log that widdeband to my Evo 7 ECU, think I can simply run the 0-5V output to my rear o2 input though :)
jafro, you're the man
Holy shit how you working so fast
What if you don’t have an ecu?
Get a ecu....
@@Ryan_1997 ecu’s and radiators are over rated
Any new videos coming anytime soon my dude 👌🏽😎
Glad you did it and not me,
g8 vid man more ecmlink vids please
Jafro are you still alive ???? Jajajaj waiting to more videos ..... Have fun!!
First i want to say thank you for your Skill and Passion for DSM Jafromobile !! Question though , Im a Disabled Veteran" i live in Maryland " and i would love for you to look at my car ? is there any way i could pay you ? ill bring it to you or ship it, but i cannot figure out the issues with my car and i know that in under a Hr you could have it running. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU CAN HELP,
Thanks Ryan Wasilewski
SEMPER FI
great content!
solid update
I'm going crazy waiting on the next upload. Lol
Adam Clark I am literally going insane making it. Some cars just don't want to be fixed. I have stopped with the mechanical approach and have been forced to move on to the psychological one. Trying to convince it that it has a reason to live.
Adam Clark It's sort of like being the last of a species. It knows it will never be able to find a mate and reproduce. Going from prey to predator is something few creatures ever accomplish, and it doesn't know how to use its newfound abilities. Worse than an addict, it keeps blaming me for its lack of will to try.
***** well best of luck my friend. Hoping to see a update soon.
Adam Clark ...only 13 minutes of voiceover left... Happy Father's Day Adam!
***** Thank you sir.. I'll be waiting to see it..
wow great vid
Jafro is Hyundai done yet man?
Tyler Ruthenbeck It will be tomorrow morning. I'm almost done with a 2 week vacation meaning the past 2 weeks I've done nothing else other than fix [stuff] and shoot video. I was only expecting it to take a couple of days. I had road trips, fishing trips, track days and relaxation time planned but it has fought me every step of the way... to the point where I missed all of it. For a while I thought it was haunted. It did not want to be fixed. Its last bug was just found and squashed a couple of days ago and the nature of it forced me to start the whole tuning process over from scratch (in 100° temperatures). It forced me to miss my track day and the next one is 2 weeks out. The tune was finalized tonight but it's raining right now so I can't do a test hit. I can tell you it's already logged more power than my GSX ever did on a dyno at only 15 PSI... but the quantity of video I have to voiceover now as a result of all this troubleshooting is daunting. The editing is finished, but the voiceover... :facepalm:
Damn Jafro you are like a celebrity to me, I can't believe you responded I'm starstruck right now! I can't wait to see the video sir, we all appreciate your attention to detail and the best car vids on the tube. One more word is all I have to say, COLT!
Tyler Ruthenbeck Hahah. Thanks man! I'm just a regular guy (just like every celebrity or bum that isn't female) doing my thing. We're all created equally and develop according to our ability. I'm just documenting my experience so those of you driven enough to learn from others can get where you're going a little bit faster. I ordered more Colt parts just last Thursday. I can't promise it's next, but I'm still working on it.
Hey I know you have projects out the wazoo all I'm saying is the colt has been waiting patiently for years, it deserves some love man! With that being said I'll watch whatever video you decide to make, and I'll enjoy the heck out of it! I don't even own a dsm nor do I ever intend to but I don't see your videos as a dsm thing, rather a general awesome car thing. Keep up the good work Jafro and give rojodelchocolate my best! One more thing man, in the colt Playlist why is "Making the Right one jealous" private? I need too see it!
Tyler Ruthenbeck Are you in the USA? Because it's not actually private. It just has a DJ food song in the audio track and it's supposed to be restricted in some countries, but I can watch it in the U.S. on other people's computers. Not mobile devices, but computers.
Чем отличается innovate lc-1?
I think I have seen your car before. Have you ever gone to a car show on Saturday nights at a burger king?
John Smith Nope. I haven't. But I'm not against it. I would totally support such activities.
cmon jafro, where my fix man?!?!?
old ecu? 18:23 sounds like no cold start/cold idle/no choke
them cold mornings when you have to manually keep it alive by treating it like a carby and pumping the gas pedal lol
19:50 that idle haha
you soo need a link G4 ecu
www.linkecu.com/
And then 2 Days Later your sensor dies and then you buy a new one and then three weeks later it dies again and then innovate tells you there's no issue with it
anyone have a 8 ft sensor cable and want to trade foe the 3 ft I have the stupid innovative put a 3 ft cable on my 3844 and it's label as 3844 not 3845 who comes with 3 ft 😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠 I need help not Goin to pay 50.00 plus shipping for something should be correct with my 3844
and I just open it after 3 months I bought it from wholesale performance on ebay I sent few messages about this and the crap wholesale performance don't reply what a shity company
+EL DIESTRO DIY Buy it on Amazon, when it gets there, tell them they sent the wrong one and trade... lol
+punk3rz lol good idea
i think i can speak for everyone we are going through jafro withdrawal!
Scott D I'm sorry. Jafro has overdosed on Jafro. Jafro needs Jafro rehab. I'm sorry I hogged all the Jafro and used him up.
Jafro has created 16 flippin' hours of video, which I have managed to squish down to only 34 minutes, and it takes an hour a minute to make the audio track. After that, there's usually 2-3 hours of overlays, and a full day of exporting.
Jafro is either filming or editing, but he can't do both at once. : \
Google doesn't pay enough for me to hire somebody who can do either one. : / : \ : | :C
***** jafro i know you are a busy man i watched your behind the scenes video. so i have an idea of how long it takes you to make these amazing videos. just there are 2 shows i want to see on the ol YT you and roadkill and my good sir you take the cake your high quality takes time so i will have to scratch for now. now send jafro to rehad and leave some jafro crack for the rest of the fiends!!!
1 whole HorsePower. xD
go go gadget driving videos? ;P
Man, ECMLink is badass! Can't see any reason to NOT use it in all but the raciest racecars.
WAYYYYY too much work... Its SO much easier just to drill a new hole
tfK dk
Innovate LC-2. - Гавно!
Мое личное мнение.
За период эксплуатации
Требовала постоянной калибровки.
Два раза замены сенсора.
Замены провода.
И в итоге ошибка 3 .
Которую не получилось победить.
220$ - лямда.
Сенсор - 80$
Сенсор - 40$ (Китай)
Провод - 30$
И все в пи…Ду ! @ Kharkiv Oblast
I wonder if any of the old shitty looking Hyundai's and Kia's in my town are anywhere near this level of modified.
Definitely not. Lol
s0nnyburnett You should get one and be the first. If you can get a first gen sCoupe, the engine, chassis and electrical components are exactly the same as the J1 Elantra.
*****
Neither of these exist up here anymore sadly. Not even in the junkyards.
s0nnyburnett I found 3 in Jersey. They pop up occasionally on Craigslist. I'd have one if my county wasn't already threatening me with thousands of dollars of fines for the cars I already own.
***** Thus your comment to register the Hyundai as soon as possible.
I'm sorry your county is on you. They should check out your TH-cam channel. It would endear most people to you even if they didn't get cars like enthusiasts do.