ALREADY REMOVING THE GFB DV+ FROM MY AUDI RS3 8P!? IS IT BAD?? (STOCK VS AFTERMARKET)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2021
- I wish I didn’t have to remove the diverter valve, but I’ll only need to in the future no matter what.
It does what it says on the tin but unfortunately I faced some issues within a couple of days.
This on top of the comments from other owners really put me off keeping it in the car.
I hope this info helps a lot of you decide whether you should get this for your own vehicle.
Don’t forget, this is 1 persons experience, you may love it!
Enjoy.
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Really interesting video and conclusion. Good to see GFB interacting with you too. I've literally just ordered one to go on my TTS. Will see how it goes , will try first with piston spring and then if it doesnt feel right without . Also great to see someone from down here in Cornwall
Yes, totally agreed, same happened on my MB B200 too, it was good when installed at the 1st place with engine oil on it, but after use for 10 or 11 months and feel the gear changing not smoothly and laggy. When I remove it can see it’s dry out and with limitation of movement, so I put back my original parts in and running as normal. I did asking GFB support and they said don’t need to reapply the engine oil. But I don’t think so…..!?
Mate you just saved me from buying one of these 👍🏻👏 been researching and reading all sorts, good and bad but your review was bang on and just what I needed, sticking with just a oem replacement thank you.
Thanks a lot mate, I’m glad this video helped make the decision!! Save your money 😎
@@AutoBay Me too! luckily i saw your review video before i make my purchase. 🤩
Appreciate it mate I've had one for over 5 years on my bmw n55 never had an issue running cutom tune and fbo last week i completely lost boost and everthing came back after a stop start ???
The issue I have on a Focus is that the standard valve has given up and the seal face has cracked. The early Ecoboost engines had a vacuum actuated valve and no spares are out there (only Pierburg electric valves for later turbos).
GFB looks like the only one out there if you’re stuck and need a replacement.
BTW you need revision G DV diaphram will hold boost better. The D plastic is also known to leak. AKS, Rtech ect will tell you the same.
Thank you for this video. I haven't installed mine yet, but now I will first read more about it. I have the RS3 8V though, not sure if that'll make much of a difference. Don't know if we have the exact same divertervalve since you have 8P.
Hi thanks your video I put one of these on my car.after 3 days the valve started to stick. By watching pressure on turbo it would stick and not drop down to what car wS asking .
Always good seeing your videos mate, proper interesting stuff. Is it a similar issue with recirc valves on the ST or are they good to your knowledge? Was thinking about getting one eventually! keep up the good work man!
Thanks a lot mate! I had a turbosmart recirc valve on my ST and I couldn’t fault it at all! I loved it. I went for the plumbback shortie
@@AutoBay Nice one man, I'll look into it! keep bossing the videos mate!
@@scottjordan5179 you won’t regret it mate, if you’ve got an open cone filter you’ll get some lovely chatter noises 😜 really appreciate that mate I will do 😎🔥
I put a dvx gfb one on my st and I have a boost leak when I put the stock one on it was worse(could’ve just been a mistake I made) but now the gfb one is back on and the leak isn’t noticeable but it’s still there and my engine code is for wastegate solenoid I’m not sure what to do at this point
I had the same issue on my s3 8p (apr stage 2+) after installing the t9351. Car lost it's nerve and felt very laggy, especially after changing gear and flooring it. Removed it, installed the stock rev.d and everything felt normal again! I installed it with both springs as mentioned in the instructions.
Interesting to hear mate! How was it after your stage 1? Fine I assume? Mine felt odd after a couple days to be honest. I just knew something wasn’t quite right. Glad you got it back to normal mate, thanks for the comment 🙏🏼🔥
@@AutoBay With the stock rev.d felt fine again and of course there aren't any boost leaks according to various vcds logs I have. The car is designed from factory with an on/off dv and if you alter dv's operation to progressive opening/closing it will cause issues imho. Just use the latest factory dv (I prefer rev.d over rev.g because the plastic piston will last forever) and you will be fine.
On my b5 i used red grease on my forge. Maybe thats an option? I’ve got a GFB on my b7 and I feel like it causes compressor surge and the same symptoms you mentioned . I’m probably going to revert as well.
I just bought one for my R56 Mini Cooper 1.6T N14 engine. I did not have any check engine light before the install and after the install I got a P28AA code. I put my stock one back on and no more check engine light. What I wanted to inform people is that I did some digging around and watched other people's install and it appears that the skinny spring that I got in my kit is wayyy shorter than any of the springs I have seen on other people's video. I contacted the retailer and they said they will contact GFB and send me a new spring. I think what is going on is quality control is out of control. How the hell does a short spring get into my kit? The machining maybe going overseas (China) and the piston and or housing may be out of spec and that is why some may have the piston sticking. The tolerance is extremely tight and any variance could make the piston stick. Just wanted to give my two cents here.
do you think this is the same with those dumb dv spacers for the cool sound. I want one but Iver herd yes and no, would i lose boost when i dont want too and faster with it and make the car run worse?
After install the gfb dv+ your first gear is weaker? Or bevore the install?
Hey AutoBay, I came across this video and I was hoping you can try something for me? I would suggest re-installing the DV+ without the main spring behind the piston. I suspect what you're seeing is the ECU making corrections because it can detect the presence of the DV+ based on the different way it operates (which is how it is intended to improve throttle response). Without the main piston spring, the DV+ will operate like the stock diverter (i.e. fully open or closed - it will not open or close progressively), which should make it "invisible" to the ECU. If the issue does not return, it will indicate that the DV+ is not sticking or leaking, and that the original issue was caused by the ECU making corrections for the unexpected throttle response improvement.
Really appreciate you commenting on the video! What you’ve said makes a lot of sense and could be well infact what my car was doing, with the ECU etc.
Unfortunately I have sold the product, however I’d be certainly willing to try again in the future. I’d make a follow up video when the time comes in hopes that this solves the issue. Thanks very much 👌🏼🔥
@gfb are you talking about the long silver Spring included with the DV+ ?
@@gfbvideos I will try this also and report back.
@@AutoBay Cheers mate, I'd be happy to help troubleshoot in future - I'm sure from the comments there are a lot of other owners out there who would be interested to know the outcome. I'll touch base with you via socials and see what we can work out.
@@enhanceduk4642 not the long silver one, I'm referring to the short fat one that goes behind the brass piston. Without that spring installed, the piston will operate like the factory diverter - fully open when the ECU turns the solenoid on, and fully closed when the ECU turns the solenoid off - nothing in between.
I have just had one fitted and a week later taken it off. It was giving codes showing diverter valve clamp closed. Didn’t give boost after each gear change fast at all of anything held it back. This is on m135i using pure turbo, the tuner could see something wasn’t right and to take it off. Now it’s fine. Wasted money and lots of tuning time taking off and on.
It just goes to show they don’t always work as good as everyone says mate. I’ve got mates with them on their VAG cars and they’re brilliant. Heavily everyone I’ve spoken to with an rs3 8p has taken theirs off. Seems like they’re a bit inconsistent on certain cars, incorrect installation may be the reasoning for some people, but on mine it certainly wasn’t up to scratch with a good install... pain in the ass 🤣
Man Im glad I came across this video. After my install, my car felt weaker, the noises were quiet and the engine just feels like its struggling to rev up the rpm range. I even contacted GFB and explained to them that my car feels worst than before and they told me I must have installed it wrong. I did everything by the book but in the end, the stock diverter valve was WAY better and felt like it held boost enough to launch the car. With the GFB, my car felt like it gradually rev up the RPM range and compared to my stock Valve which felt like a punch once turbo kicks in. Not worth $130 or the pain in the ass to install
Seems like they’re a hit and miss product mate! I’ve had so many day they’ve had issues too, but many have said theirs is fine. Just like you said, I noticed such a difference when putting my stock valve back on! It was like I’d put an aftermarket part on 🤣👌🏼
question when you showed us the diverter valve you could pull that brass piston out. its not supposed to do that. you are supposed to secure it with the supplied screw which keeps a certain amount of preload on it. this is why you had a leak as you say
I would've used some high-temp red grease to lube the piston.
Anyone tried the forge diverter where it replaces the whole system ?
I have no problems at all, but after 2 years of usage I got P2261 and than now I have boost leak, bad fuel trim and P0171 code. I would go back to the stock one.
I have a 2011 A4 Quattro 6 speed. When I bought the car it came with a blow off valve which was the VTA GFB and my car has been misfiring ever since!!! I’m going to try and change it now and lyk!
What about the turbosmart TS-0223-1063 and TS-0223-1263???
Can it be bad for the turbo if i put that on my 1.4tsi (caxa). I'm looking for small mods that would make it a bit more powerful like turbo inlet pipe, diverter valve etc.
It definitely shouldn’t cause any problems with the car mate, if anything it’ll be better at releasing turbo pressure more efficiently
The factory dv is made to handle around 550-600bhp anyway, so if its not broke don't replace it and if it's broke then no point going aftermarket if your under 500 bhp.
Nice video 👍👍
Great job 👍💪
Thanks very much mate 🔥🔥
Installed DV+ on my 2017 Mercedes C300 (2.0ltr) about 8mths ago. I sprayed WD40 on it instead of oil.
No Earth shattering improvement in performance, but definitely makes a difference. No issues with it at all, so far.
Your comment is over 4 months old. How is the valve holding up with wd40?
@larrygill2223 No issues yet. Have noticed drops of oil on the engine mount on the right side. I'm thinking it's blow-by oil being sprayed out when the valve opens... 🤔
R tech tuning, 2.0 litre tsfi tuners will remove these and replace it a stock item before remapping an engine.
Thanks for sharing
No problem 👍🏼
Sounds to me like the divereter IS holding boost well and recovering quicker because tou notice a faster throttle response....but it seems that is you didn't adjust your waste gate to "hold" more boost before bleeding drive pressure off the turbine.....hmmm sounds like you need to update your waste gate blow off pressure
I used this and I have now after 1 years code p0299 and Low pressure in acceleration But I replaced the electrical part with a new one, but the same problem, weak acceleration in my benz c250
Very interesting to hear a bad report on this used on a Mercedes mate. Appreciate the comment 👌🏼
I have also boost leak with gfb dv+..i bought new oem n249 thought it was bad..still was leaking..my boost gauge goes up and down lost boost in idle and when acceration..so i took off gfb dv+ and put back oem dv on..my car runs great now..i do not recommend gfb dv+..in long term you will lose boost
Real shame mate, really surprising to see how many people have commented with different cars entirely, yet all having the same issues! GFB need to have a rethink.
Interesting video, so far so good with my S3 as well. Maybe more pointless on RS models than S or something.
Makes sense mate, like I said on the video about my mates S3 too... his is mint. Must be an RS thing 🙈
@@AutoBay Cool, looking forward to tuning time! :D
I have on on my a3 8p, heavily tuned. about 22psi on a k04 and e85 and the moment i installed this i got an underboost code that shows up every time i hit 4500+
Sorry to hear this mate, have you put it back to stock again? How is it now?
@@AutoBay took it off and it'd doin a lot better, sellin for an n55 335i tho lmao
I’ve had the same issue on my cupra the piston just sticks does not even move oil drys up after a day pointless.
Seems like everyone’s had the same issues 🤣🙈
oo thanks i was gonna get this, but dont think i will now.
Hopefully this has given you some interesting info mate 👍🏼
I have one in my a3 1.8t its mapped and has the gbf lol come on the car its leaking from the spacer im gonna get the rev g diverter valve as they a known not to leak
So why did you change the mirrors…..I’m a bit confused, was it just to freshen them up?
I’m not sure if you saw the clip where I held them up next to each other, the drives side is covered in rust and scratches. The left one not so bad but thought I’d replace it too 👌🏼
Oh yeah I did, fresh look is always good man.👍🏻
Too right mate 😎🔥
I installed one on my R56 mini today, and just puts my car into limp mode. Took it off, checked it, lubed it, reinstalled, cleared the codes, then took for another drive. Went straight to limp mode again. Taking off and going back to stock, waste of my time and money!
I’m sorry to hear this mate, seems like a proper hit or miss product...
where to find recaro seat cover?
I got this in eBay 👌🏼
How can it dry up, there is always some oil in there!
Correct mate, but not always enough to keep it as lubricated as it needs to be.
Love mine. Been on my 8p1 3years. Still haven't taken mine off. You sure you know you're doing
That’s class to hear mate 😎👌🏼 I’m going to possibly try the turbo smart valve
@@AutoBay haven't heard anything good about them on our cars
I’d use thermal grease not engine oil.. lasts a lot longer
Maybe you should put on a lubrication with a different purpose instead of engine oil.
Looking at the symptoms you've described:
1. First gear felt weaker.
2. Doesn't feel like it's holding boost at all.
3. Throttle response is increased.
4. On boost quicker after changing gears.
5. After 4,000 RPM car doesn't feel as powerful.
6. Feels like it isn't holding up boost.
7. More boost after changing gear.
#2 and #6 are inconsistent with #4 and #7. This list points to it opening and closing correctly, but not holding pressure.
That issue seems unlikely to be detectable by an operator, based on the volume of air flowing to a 2.5L engine at 4,000 RPM versus the size of the transfer hole in the GFB piston. The piston not sealing at higher pressure seems unlikely if it is sealing at lower pressure since the piston is designed with a large back area to use the air pressure to increase the sealing force, in addition to the spring pressure helping to keep it shut.
Obviously it is too late to do any useful diagnostics with the part to help clear up the discrepancies with the subjective impressions.
Your points make a lot of sense, I’m just giving my raw feed back. I don’t have time for diagnosis, this video was simply explaining why I chose not to keep it, it seems 80% of the comments have had the same issues too 👍🏼
Well good video bro very interesting to see your opinion on the part
Thanks very much mate! I needed to get this update video out there 🔥
Ok ,ok. Thats a bit of bs. Had one fitted on my Cupra 2.0 stage2+ never had issues , had one on my 515hp RS3 8P and never had issues , now im taking on for the S3 8V and ill update for sure.
As far as I’ve been told, they’re mint on so many cars but don’t perform so great on the rs3 8p. There’s so many in the rs3 pages on fb who’ve had issues too, my mates s3 8v is running a GFB dv+ and it’s spot on 👌🏼.
It’s been shown to me many times however that they can prevent achieving good fugues on the dyno and the pierburg valve does it’s job better (not in all cases of course)
I think using engine oil could have been a mistake. Using a dry lube seems like the best option for a part like this
Possibly mate, however the instructions provided say to use engine oil
@AutoBay I just got one of these in the mail. Hopefully it doesn't suck 😅😅
@@TwiceCrispyhow is it ?
@nene2734 it's decent. Nothing game changing though. Had this installed for maybe 5 months now? I did go with the dry lube which seems to be working well. Definitely notice a lot less boost loss when coming off the throttle then right back on it
@@TwiceCrispy good to know I drive a Volkswagen. How’s the turbo flutter if any that’s what I’m hoping for
Lol never used after markets DVs on my tune cars or my customers for this very reasons, gives all sorts of issues....
I can only agree with this based on my experiences now mate, yet I’ve got friends who have them and they’ve performed perfectly for years!
Works better without the main spring in my 2017 Regal Turbo 👍
I respect and understand the decision, but - "stick with the original diverter". It is the original, it's just a stronger valve. It's a performance part, so of course it will require a bit of maintenance with re-oiling and such. "Playing"as far as installing performance parts does certainly require a bit of work. Performance isn't just "set and forget". HOWEVER, with this being a year old, what are you running currently for mods? AND - I think you deserve more subs, quality videos. I was surprised to see only 2.8-9k subs. Keep up the good work!
Thanks a lot for the comment mate! Literally as we speak I’m on route to The Turbo Unit to collect the RS3, it’s been there for 4 weeks due to ECU issues, due to poor tuning. While it’s been up there I’ve had the forge High capacity elbow (dump valve) fitted as my stock DV wasn’t holding boost at red line! I’ll be making a big update video soon mate explaining everything that’s happened. 🙏🏼🔥
@@AutoBay Oof man, no fun. I'm sorry it's been sitting :'( I look forward to the video though!
Had one on my rs3 8p 450 bhp for 5k no issues at all
That’s why it didn’t make power 👀
Wow mate! Just goes to show they can be a good modification for some, do you think it limited your tuning potential however?
@@AutoBay no mate never had any issues at all with when I had it from stock with that gfb then stage 2 pluss made good figures too
@@bennyboy21100 that’s great to hear mate! I’ve looked into the forge high capacity piston valve as an alternative. Have you had any experience with this?
No I haven’t but know people that have use it with bad issues I would just stay with stock bro
I haven't decided to take your video as advice for a couple of reasons. Firstly, you didn't advise against it as I saw. Secondly, I'm aware that some unscrupulous people will buy the counterfeit version and sell it as the authentic DV+. Because of this and because my stock DV has failed, I will be going through the manufacturer's website to find an authorized dealer and will video record the unboxing at the post office so that, if it is a counterfeit, I can report the authorized dealer to the manufacturer. I may end up going with the Forge atmospheric diverter if this is less than satisfying. I most assuredly will not be making a video to tell people that the counterfeit that I bought performed poorly and induced a need to shed the PoS from my beloved car.
I purchased mine from a well known performance parts dealer.
When I went stage 2 I used the forge system as you’ve mentioned, it worked amazingly
So, basically only 1 shop says its shit? Maybe something to consider that this shop, doesnt like gfb because they propably, support other products with kickbacks.... also its possible those who have had bad experiences have the knock off valves.
All I’ll say is read the comments bro, wayyy more negative experiences than positive.
Why would i waste £100 of my own money and make up a false review, I really wanted this product. If it worked the way I wanted it would still be in my car today.
It’s very poor on the RS3 8P platform, my review is based on my make and model. Not every other brand.
As mentioned, one of my best mates has one on his s3 8V and works wonders. It’s brilliant. In my case it under performs.
@@AutoBay i didnt suggest you made a false review.
I suggested that the shop, could possibly have negative intentions. I also suggested that the negatove reviews you have read have possibly been tainted by all tbose who have bought knock offs without even realizing they have done so.
It also can be suggested that from time to time manufacturing defects do happen, we dont know for sure what the quality process is.... example every 100 units could be tested, but all others in between are not...
Its also a safe bet, to suggest that if gfb was a failed product then reaching out to the company is also a good idea for feed back. As installation of product could also be a failure point, due to not being torqued to spec or wrong spring for application etc etc. I personally had the dvx on my genesis coupe. Never had an issue with it.
Thats all im saying.
I've had this exact valve on my Mercedes GLA 250. Same issue.
Luckily, I did a turbo upgrade and was able to use the old turbo housing to do back to back tests of the OEM valve, and this valve.
Just as was said, initial impressions give you better throttle response. but long term use, you get inconsistent boost, inconsistent boost holding, inconsistent boost after a gear change, etc.
I too put on the factory valve and saw an immediate performance restoration.
I also tested a few different factory style valves and found one performed similarly to the GFB unit but had unlimited boost holding.
I have videos somewhere, maybe when I find them I will upload.
Long and short of it is.
GFB valve WILL leak......
First off the claim of faster performance is total hogwash. A giant heavy brass piston is hard to move quickly, compared to super light plastic pieces. Plastic is not always a bad thing boys! its light and can be made strong and light and cheap.
The claim that the GFB valve is boost referenced on either sides is true, but they neglect to tell you that the OEM valve works the same way.
The reason why the GFB unit leaks is exactly as stated with the oiling, the OEM valve relies on a diaphragm, unless that is torn it cannot leak.
The GFB unit relies on motor oil to seal the piston, and so if that oil is gone than its going to have a leak around the perimeter of the piston, and as the engine and the valve gets hotter this leak gets worse. Why? Aluminum expands 34% more than brass due to thermal expansion. hotter she gets the more she leaks, the less boost she will hold. more leak = more air pushing that precious oil away that was supposed to be helping.
Once that oil goes away the valve gets sticky.
I have no idea why all BOV makers choose brass for pistons as it sucks for a valve material in this regard, heavy, poor thermal expansion compared to aluminum, etc. if you want brass, make the whole thing out of brass.
Aluminum pistons would need a anti-friction coating to prevent galling but they are already anodized so this seems like a moot point. hard anodize both and you are done.
Anyways. Stick with the latest OEM version and you should be ok.
OR if upgrading, use a diaphragm design. dont believe me? go look at what borg warner offers on their aftermarket turbos. millions of dollars research on that to give you a plastic diaphragm manifold referenced BOV.
It wil not leak lmao, just because yours and some others had the issue doesn't mean all people have this issue
Do you have comparison data somewhere that shows the performance differences between the GFB and factory valve?
@@Supremepikachu That's like saying just because your sphere is round doesn't mean all people's spheres are round.
Seriously, everyone buys the same valve and they are all engineered and built the same. They will all suffer the same flaws.
@@mygolfmk7209 Unfortunately no, this was all done years ago in 2019 in a hurry to figure out an issue on my own car. I knew after that and gave up then on the GFB valve.
Yes, I realize to others everything I will be saying is opinion or anecdotal, but unfortunately thats the case.
Use it if you like, or do some research on your own, many forums have found the best OEM valve to use.
All my statements are true however.
A light diaphragm is WAY faster reacting than a heavy brass piston.
Diaphragm is not subject to thermal expansion issues, unlike the brass/aluminum GFB setup.
The heavy brass piston will bounce when closing, leading to inconsistent boost return during gear changes, with or without the stupid spring.
Diaphragm has way less inertia and better damping so it won't bounce.
Diaphragm also has 2-3x the surface area for boost pressure to CLOSE the valve vs the GFB piston.
@@shmuck66 Well idc i sold the car that had it anyways.
Ye had 3 every single one rubbish. Last one sent me in limp mode after 3 days.
Jeez mate that’s really unfortunate 🤯. I’ve just seen your other comment about the revised version. Something I could consider! Thanks for that mate
You're not supposed to put oil on it, never did on mine and still works fine
Specifies in the instructions to oil the piston, reduces friction and risk of drying out and seizing. You’ve clearly not read it 👍🏼
@@AutoBay Sure hell i did, mine still works on my M3 while yours gave up after a short time lmao.
@@Supremepikachu clearly a differently designed valve of the instructions didn’t state to oil it mate 👍🏼
@@AutoBay Same valve, didn't oil it and still works after a year or 2.
@@Supremepikachu will definitely be a different valve for an m3, they’re a twin turbo set up. Or of course N/A if it’s an E92 M3
Okay you lost me when you said you need to put oil on the diverter valve... You understand that oil gets on it anyway it's called blow by...
Sorry to burst your bubble mate, but the instructions are what say to oil the piston. And GFB themselves said re oiling the piston is something you’ll have to encounter at times as it dries out due to friction & heat. 👍🏼
I have a 2.0tfsi, stage 2, A4 Quattro B8.5 @ 300+ bhp. I have the GFB DV+ blow off. It's been on for ages, not had what I would call noticeable issues. The wife moans about it.. people looking when it goes blololololoooo lol. I was curious about changing the sound/spring but after watching this I'm curious to put the original back in to see how it feels etc.. I remember reading the OEM fails over time. I dunno. Who's telling the truth about all this shit. Peer pressures everywhere lol.
Let’s just say 95% of the RS3 8P community all hate them, never work for us (for most of us anyway).
Mine was crap, however my good mates S3 8V performs great with it
You got any clips on the sound it makes with the valve? I want to put it on my A5 b8.5
Absolute hogwash pal. These units works so much better than the stock versions. I see you have the revised version of stock DV which aren’t prone to break as much as the previous versions. The DV+ works for the mere purpose of piston action vs a membrane action. These units in fact will hold boost better than stock Diverter valves.
With the lubrication story that is absolutely a lie too, if you didnt then or by now know already, the purpose of a diverted valve is push all unused boost into the exhaust, by this any oil vapour coming from the pcv system will be effective enough for the piston to always remain lubricated.
Your tuner is misleading you and i would suggest you find another.
Cheers pal
I’m sorry mate I but I’m going to have to disagree with you, might I ask what car you have too? Everyone I’ve contacted in the RS3 8P forums who have had this fitted have also removed it, the stock valve works better for this generation RS3.
Like I said in the video, other friends of mine with a different vehicle have had this fitted and it’s great. What makes you think I’d lie about what I’m saying, and spend £100 on a product to fit on my car and have I remove again, if it worked great it would still be on my car. I then sold it for less a week later 🤣 my experience wasn’t good mate, it seems they don’t perform well on the 8P RS3 set up. I’m more than happy to hear you opinion, that’s why TH-cam is all about, but don’t go saying I’m lying about my own experiences bud, I’m always going to do my research and hear other peoples experiences before making it public.
I also hate to say it bud but the tuner mentioned in the video is well known for RS cars in particular, not to blow smoke up his ass, but he tuned and has built/tuned some of the fastest Audi RS cars in the UK. His RS6 being 1000+ BUP. He’s a wizard when it comes to these cars mate so certainly took his advice. Put “bevo tuning” into TH-cam and see for yourself 👍🏼
Cheers mate
@@AutoBay fair enough but how on earth can a plastic component designed for a certain rating out perform a a machined product with a copper piston? I have from personal experience and on many other builds seen before and after boost logs and on all log sheets the DV+ has shown to hold boost so much greater than the OEM diverter valves plastic head.
Previous versions of the DV had a orange rubber membrane and those were guaranteed to break once more boost has been requested over stock levels.
Volkswagen went and made up to 4 or 5 revised version until they came to the one you have now. Thats how problematic they were. GFB was already on top of things before they released the final revision and even so GFB product still out performs the OEM one.
I personally owned a 2012 A3 125hp and by the time i sold it it was making a healthy 210whp. Ive been part of the 8P group in my country for years, with a mixture from the 1.4T all the way to the 2.5T. Ive seen the data and know these things work without fail.
Stock turbo and fully maxed hybrid setups these DV+ units are the go to mod when making high boost numbers.
In my experience, the 1.4T comes out with a td02 Mitsubishi turbo. They boost stock 0.9bar from factory. I had a mild hybrid done to my turbo with internals from a td04 Mitsubishi turbo found in your typical Subaru WRX models. After doing supporting mods such as fueling, intake, downpipe and software i had my car dyno’d and logs taken. Boost peak was 1.6bar but would taper down to 1.4bar and hold.
We request 1.8bar i hope to hold 1.6bar but then the DV would blow, not the solenoid but the actual plastic head that the DV+ replaces. I ended up buying the DV+ and running on the same map requesting 1.8bar and low and behold it peaked 1.8bar and held it there only to drop gradually throughout the rev range. That was abit to spicey of a tune for the turbo so we returned to the 1.6bar file. Ran another log and that car would drop by most 0.5bar from peak boost to 5250.
Now many would say its because i had a 1.4T but lets be honest, its the same mechanics at the end of the day, whether it applies the 1395cc or 2498cc engine.
Apologies on the straight forward accusations of you being a lier 😭🤣 but its very frustrating when i hear people downside such proved product.
Either way, nice car. If you are perhaps looking for an alternative then look into the Forge BOV 👍🏼
Cheers
@@Audi8pOfSouthAfrica it’s very nice to see someone who clearly knows their stuff mate, you know what’s what. No problem at all 🤣 unfortunately the forge units are very pricey for the rs3 8p. It’s a “high capacity piston valve” with a BOV, they’re really known to leak, baldy! My last option is turbo smart, but they’ve caused many turbos to blow due to over boosting, once again going back to the rs3 8p... from lots of research and hearing of peoples experiences, the pierburg BOV is the one to stick with 👍🏼 (stock)
@@AutoBay yeah i like the Forge BOV but was way to pricey even for the A3 models. The 1.4 1.8 and 2.0 models used the same part number but the 2.5 is on a league of its own. Havent heard of turbo smart amongst my circles. Will look into that.
Just here after opening the box and looking at my DV+ and thinking that brass piston's going to stick. Fitting it to a K03 BWA GTi going stage 2. I'm a VW tech so know how shite the stock piston DV holds boost and how long the diaphragm ones last. Will graph the boost before and after and polish the shit out of that piston and see how it goes😂
U probably got a fake
It was from haz motorsport mate was 100% legitimate product 👌🏼
Oh boy missinformation abound
I think you’re confusing the terms miscommunication and my own experiences mate 🤣 I’d accept you saying it’s miscommunication if I said all units are the same and perform poorly. however I’ve made it clear throughout the video that these work great on many different cars.
@@AutoBay it wasn't you I was referring to but rather the tuning shop you mentioned
@@bigboom4684 ahh I see mate, sorry bud it wasn’t clear at all hahaha. I was thinking.. here we go again 🤣🤣
I wish to copulate with you