Great advice guys. It's a very comprehensive look at commissioning bespoke. Yes, my heart sinks when the dreaded phrase "I'm going to lose some weight..." is uttered. Refined Elegance is what I always tell clients. However, I do like fun linings. And, yes the most important thing is that it is a relationship and an ongoing conversation. I think the only thing I would add is some clients like to source their own cloth if it is something personal or special to them, but make sure to check with one's tailor that it is suitable for the garment being commissioned. THB is quite rare but it has happened to me in the past with something very unsuitable for tailoring purposes. Loved the video.
At 23:20, Sonya and Hugo will expertly show the difference between a suit that is costly and a suit that's expensive. Costly suits will have a high price, but give you a feeling that will be worth more to you than the value of the suit. Expensive suits are the suits that you did buy, but don't wear. No matter how much you've paid. Don't get expensive suits(/things). Costly suits(/things) are fine. Just try to not get overboard.
Thanks Piet for your thoughtful comment. The main point here is to make a difference between cost and value. A cost is negative. A value is positive. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Sonia and Hugo, Thank you! Great content as well. Asking for your input: I commissioned a bespoke suit with a very well known Savile Row tailor. The jacket looks fantastic… as long as I don’t move! If I lift my arm even for a handshake, the sleeves become very tight and ride up my forearm. The same happens if I were to hug someone or point at something. The back, near the armhole, is also very tight. I feel I would rip the jacket if I bend to tie my shoes. The tailor said he can fix it and that some people just sit and movement is not as important to them. I told him I don’t want a fix, I paid a substantial amount for a jacket done right, not a mended one. And I am not expecting to do gymnastics with the jacket but at a minimum expect to be able to at least shake hands comfortably. What is customary when obvious flaws like this occur? Thank you!
I must admit I followed my tailor for a long time before I was able to actually put my order in. He moved twice and now has his own house which is why I stepped up for the first order. Going for my second this year. The show always is so helpful. Thank you both.
I started my bepoke journey when I moved to Japan with Tailor Caid, he is such a wonderful tailor that when I commissioned my first order he guided me through the enitre process and helped me avoid some of the mistakes mentioned in this video. The only mistake I made was entirely on me, that I went to him too soon just when I was still dealing with the stress of moving to a new country and a getting used to a new career, which I lost a lot of weight during that period, and as he was working on my suit I gradually settled in my new life and went back to my usual weight, so between my first and second fitting I gained like 4 kilos which was not insignificant.
Thank you so much for this great and informative video. I am starting my MTM journey in January 2025. This video helps me to be even better prepared when I meet my tailor the first time. I have chosen my tailoring house in the meantime. I will commission my suit with Redmayne, located on Wigton, UK. You both have won a new subscriber.
Great advice! While I have an extensive bespoke wardrobe I’ve made the mistake you mentioned with respect to my posture. I recently retired and have done a blazer with contacting button holes, which is fun.
I watch your videos from Nigeria and I love them. Supposedly, we in the third world either do not love or know nothing about the sartorial world but it isn’t true 😂. Love ur channel, it’s educating and inspiring.
Hello, I am Andres Magana from Mexico, I discovered your channel two weeks ago. First, as a catholic I want to say that I love your humility, remains me to Christs! Secondly, I want to say thank you MUCHAS GRACIAS for everything that you two are teaching me. I am watching your videos from older to newer. Now I am in 2018 I will watch all your videos I hope that one day I can meet you two and have a sandwich together, and a coffee. By the way I want to start a made to measure business ! Last by not least, you have a House in SAN PEDRO Garza Garcia, Nuevo León and are really welcome here! GRACIAS!!!!
Nice video. I’ve almost exclusively done MTM (US companies for the most part) for twenty years. Just don’t fit well off the rack. I’d seriously love to do bespoke, probably English, but what are the real prices? In 2024 you really can’t ignore cost. The days of if you have to ask you can’t afford it are gone. I can afford it, but it’s competing with other wants in my life. Most, maybe all, of the Saville Row houses more or less invite anyone to walk in off the street, which seems strangely odd. Maybe next time I’m in London I’ll visit a couple just for research. There’s a psychology here as well…
Great points about ordering bit by bit and ESPECIALLY about telling the tailor it's not a rush. I don't see any issue on discussing price, in particular it's important to know how they are pricing different cloths etc to make the best value decision for yourself and in accordance with what you're prepared to spend. Also they are business people it's certainly acceptable to negotiate but of course there is a right and wrong way to do it. Certainly wouldn't expect a discount on normal list price just buying a normal suit.
Recently, I made that very mistake - I told my tailor not to rush, and, well, after waiting quite a long time, I ended up nudging them a little. And I decided never say ‘take your time’ again! 😂 I’ve learnt so much from you. Cheers ❤🍝🍷
I hear you. I did exactly the same on my last commission and in general. In my work I deal with creatives and artists all day long and I think you should never rush a creative process. I gave my tailor a very reasonable deadline (he had 5 months) towards the end of which I also started nudging and it’s normal. I’ll keep telling my tailor to take his time, it’s important he know that I appreciate his art, but with a deadline 😉
@@SARTORIALTALKS I really love your view on the fragile boundary between fun and obsession. As a Asian it took me some time to learn Italian culture. For example, I noticed that they sometimes alter or add details without consulting the customer first, as they believe it’s for the better. However, I gradually started to appreciate this. I feel Italians manage to bring a lot of fun and joy into both work and life, which is why there are so many artisans still passionately active in their fields even into their 80s, and their work is truly beautiful.
@@goggo9 Hello, Goggo, thank you for your suggestion! Setting a reasonable timeline is great. I also noticed that tailors prioritize making clothes for weddings and for influencers or celebrities, which confirms Ms. Sonya’s point.
HAHHAH As a bespoke tailor of men's historical suits [1890 - 1940] you have to be patient if you want a suit from me. But I never take a commission and sit on it. When I take your order I start your suit and its usually about 2 months. But it may be 2 years before I can take your order.
Great video but a little late for me, lol. I'm a first-time client and have commissioned two suits in the last year from two different tailors, one British (Henry Poole) and the other Italian (Eric Jensen of Stefano Bemer). In addition, I commissioned a navy blue blazer from Henry Poole as well. While that might be considered a mistake since I haven't finished the first suit yet, nobody does a blue blazer as well as the British imho, so I feel pretty good about it. Luckily, I avoided all the other mistakes or at least I think I have. Btw Sonya, I'm also a University of Georgia graduate, Class of 1980. I grew up in Athens, and my parents were both on the UGa faculty. My mom was the Journalism 101 professor for many years, so if you were majoring in journalism you had to go through her. This was before your time though, I'm sure. While growing up, whenever I would bump into a reporter or tv journalist, they would say, "Are you related to Dr. Bethune at UGa? She was the coolest teacher I ever had." And I would think, "My Mom? Cool?" lol For all of you who are thinking of going bespoke, I can tell you from my perspective it has been a wonderful experience so far. I tell my tailor what I'm looking for in terms of general color, three piece, and how I anticipate wearing it and pretty much let them decide the rest as we discuss the details. I even told both of them to surprise me with the lining, lol.
Thank you sir for your comment. I will let Sonya answer you directly about UGA. As for Henry Poole, we know them quite well and have a good relationship with Simon Cundey (and we also used to know Alex Cooke who unfortunately passed away in 2023, a great loss for our community). Warmly, Hugo
Wow...perfect timing. I'm in Portugal and an online MTM company called I-Tailor Gold is touring major European cities over the next month giving free 30 minute consulting and measurements appointments with their expert tailor, as well as a review of hundreds of fabrics. My first thought was I would need much more than 30 minutes...even for a relatively inexpensive suit (starting at 600 euro!)
Honestly, it should take more than 30 minutes. You need to be careful with the MTM offerings, their 'tailor' may be some guy that takes measurements. If you can't cut, draw, or sew, can you really call yourself a tailor? When using any MTM service, you will have to be prepared for some 'sacrificial garments', while they figure out your sizes. I would suggest getting a shirt done first, that is usually the body measurement and some immediate changes can be sorted.
Speaking of neapolitan tailoring, I've seen Hugo wear a beautiful pink Saint Gregory suit; is there any review or comments on the suis or this tailor shop? Thanks
I went to a small tailor in Naples and she farmed out a jacket and a suit. The jacket and suit jacket were both noticeably smaller than the first suit jacket she made for me. I will never use her again and I won't refer anyone to her. Before her I used a larger tailoring house in Naples and I never had and still haven't a problem with them and the consistency of their garments.
For myself, the bottom of my chest pocket aligns with my armpit. Whereas I noticed Hugo’s is aligned with the top of his chest pocket. Would mine be considered too high?
Speaking of speaking Italian. I am fluent but do not know even the most basic sartorial terms in Italian, nor can I find them in my dictionary. Do you know where I can find a lexicon of useful sartorial words like peak lapel, jetted pockets, vents, darts, etc. since literal translation does not work well on artisanal, artistic, or technical terms in my experience.
Well, in my humble opinion Suit Supply is superior. By far actually. You should check Enzo Custom, a very good and affordable MTM with which we negotiated a code (hugoj). With the code you can have a good custom suit for less than $400. All our best, Hugo
Such an informative ‘chat’ giving some great advice. If a man is fortunate enough to purchase such a ‘bespoke’ suit and to spend many thousands of pounds you need all the help and the saying ‘quality, quality, quality’ always wins. I refer to King Charles He is always dressed impeccably - especially in Samoa in the last 2 days with that white shirt with a type of cummerbund to connect to Samoa Made by Anderson & Shepard , Bespoke , Old Burlington Street London w1 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🏴👍 👍 ❤️❤️😃😃🤩🤩
We know A&S for many many years. We were good friends with John Hitchcock (one of their iconic master tailors back in the years) and we know Anda Rowland quite well. Great company and good people. Cheers, Hugo
So, if I am happy with the first suit by a specific taylor, then it's fine and totally reasonable to order 3 pairs of trousers, 3 jackets and 3 suits, right? Well, at least I followed some if your advice and already commissioned very seasonal garmets, like a linen suit and thick tweed jackets. My taylor also makes me do a bit of gymnastics to evaluate the fit, which is his defense against sucked in bellies and unnatural posture.
Of course, totally fine! I stray away from commissioning too much at once though because taste always changes a bit and wearing more bespoke tailoring always gives me ideas on what to change on my next commission.
One of my mistakes was for my first bespoke overcoat in 2017. I picked out a lovely 22oz Fox Brothers fabric in navy and just asked for it as a double breasted. I should have been more explicit with the style as it was only when the overcoat was finished that they had cut as a 6x2 with large, peaked lapels (hadn’t noticed or questioned what the lapels will be like at the basted stage). Seven years on, I still love wearing it when dressed formally but that has been the only time I can.
I bet you could wear it more often. Nothing wrong--and a lot right--with being the best dressed man in the room. Besides, isn't the overcoat the first thing to come off when you enter the room? It sounds like a lovely overcoat, btw.
Good morning Neil. You mean your lapels were too large? Because if it's actual bespoke, it would have been easy to reduce them. And btw peak lapels are the way to go for DB's. All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Salut Hugo. Thank you for your reply. When I commissioned the overcoat, I think I had an Ulster overcoat in mind - a style that I think can be bridged well between casual and formal. However, excitement probably got the better of me and just asking for a double breasted resulted with them assuming I wanted peak lapels (like you find on a polo overcoat). It’s a full bespoke from my tailor and was my first overcoat. Nonetheless, I wore it for the first time this season last week and my goodness it felt good. In fact, I’ll try combining with high-low dressing (so not restricted with a suit and tie). In fact, talking about this has me looking forward to the cold weather and trying new combinations with it!
There is so much confusion about bespoke. People think it's bespoke just because it's not off the rack. I have about 7 suits and 2 tuxedos... all MTM. I took advantage of the B&D offer and am waiting for the first fitting. Having suits made is a learning experience. My advice to the young men around me is who have asked me... start with MTM.
@18:36, Indian prime minister Narendra Modi was gifted the same kind of suit by someone. He wore it and made it popular. Opposition parties rebuked him and his party by calling it a party of millionaires. Then Narendra Modi auctioned the same suit, it sold for huge amount and Mr.Modi gave it to the charity.
Sucking in the beer belly? I've actually been thinking a bit about the saying about a good tailor being able to take off 10 pounds, and then how much a good surgeon would... But I assume this is good advice. 🙂 And then on having your name in the weave? That actually reminds me of Wooster having his initials woven into the corner of his pocket squares, and then Jeeves referring to them as his novelty pocket squares. 😂
That's a matter of taste and ego. Personally I just use my initials on my shirts because it's a tradition here (that comes from ancient times when it was the only way for the laundry people to know whose shirt was whom as all the shirts used to look exactly the same). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS That is a good point, and I would very much agree with anyone finding Jeeves a bit too strict on this point. I assume my sense of style would not get his approval on many points. Though your name in the weave of an outer garment? Only slightly better than the name of your tailor across your back. :D
Why is it deemed improper to request a discount on a bespoke suit? High-value purchases, such as homes, cars, and businesses, typically involve negotiation. Some believe that asking for a discount offends the artisan tailor, but isn't the same true for architects and builders? Also, suit companies/tailors negotiate with their suppliers as part of their procurement process thus various markups are passed on to the customer. What explains the double standards and taboos surrounding cost negotiation?
When you ask a tailor for a discount, what the tailor hears is that you are asking him or her take a pay cut to make your suit. That "discount" has to come from somewhere, and you can bet the tailor's supplier, landlord or accountant won't be willing to cough up the money so it ends up coming straight out of the tailor's income. Imagine if your boss came to you and asked you to take a pay cut because you are a high-value employee. How would that make you feel? Now, if you're a multi-repeat customer perhaps your tailor would be willing to offer small discounts, like tossing in a freebie ticket pocket, because you have provided him or her with a somewhat steady income over the years. Totally up to the tailor. Let him volunteer. Personally, I would never use the word "discount" with a tailor.
Dear friends, we don't say it's forbidden to negotiate with a tailor (although it's not usual in the bespoke world). We just point out that the tradition is to not speak about money with the tailor during the fitting appointments. You can speak about money with they commercial assistant (if there's one) or their administration manager. The idea is the one of a "gentleman agreement", which never involve hard negotiation unlike the examples you talk about. Anyway, soft speaking and humble behaviour is part of the bespoke culture, if this still means something in 2024. Warmly, Hugo
No worries, I will never have such poor economic sense as to buy bespoke suit. If your body is the same after the 5~6 months it takes them to make it, what are you doing? Overpriced and problematic, this business is for silly beginners imo 😮
Haha, that's not true my friend. A bespoke suit can be almost infinitely altered. As for the "poor economic sense", well it's a matter of priorities. Anyway, have a nice week-end! Cheers, Hugo
@SARTORIALTALKS well, not if you go up in sizes by let's say more than one size. And even losing a lot of weight there comes a point where it does not make a lot of sense to alter it further.
@@SARTORIALTALKS hehe "priorities" is just another word for poor economics to me :) Yes, have a nice weekend, and please do not misunderstand, I am a follower for many years.
Sonia has really good sense of dressing. I am a man but her style and the way she carry her style is evenly inspiring for me
Excellent video, wonderful subject matter and explanations. Thank you for making this video, it has answered many questions that I had.
We are so happy to read it helped you. Yours, Hugo & Sonya
Great advice guys. It's a very comprehensive look at commissioning bespoke. Yes, my heart sinks when the dreaded phrase "I'm going to lose some weight..." is uttered. Refined Elegance is what I always tell clients. However, I do like fun linings. And, yes the most important thing is that it is a relationship and an ongoing conversation. I think the only thing I would add is some clients like to source their own cloth if it is something personal or special to them, but make sure to check with one's tailor that it is suitable for the garment being commissioned. THB is quite rare but it has happened to me in the past with something very unsuitable for tailoring purposes. Loved the video.
Thank you Thom. Your thoughtful remarks are always appreciated here. Warmly, Hugo & Sonya
"I am training and think I will grow" is another one.
At 23:20, Sonya and Hugo will expertly show the difference between a suit that is costly and a suit that's expensive.
Costly suits will have a high price, but give you a feeling that will be worth more to you than the value of the suit.
Expensive suits are the suits that you did buy, but don't wear. No matter how much you've paid.
Don't get expensive suits(/things). Costly suits(/things) are fine. Just try to not get overboard.
Thanks Piet for your thoughtful comment. The main point here is to make a difference between cost and value. A cost is negative. A value is positive. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Sonia and Hugo, Thank you! Great content as well. Asking for your input: I commissioned a bespoke suit with a very well known Savile Row tailor. The jacket looks fantastic… as long as I don’t move! If I lift my arm even for a handshake, the sleeves become very tight and ride up my forearm. The same happens if I were to hug someone or point at something. The back, near the armhole, is also very tight. I feel I would rip the jacket if I bend to tie my shoes. The tailor said he can fix it and that some people just sit and movement is not as important to them. I told him I don’t want a fix, I paid a substantial amount for a jacket done right, not a mended one. And I am not expecting to do gymnastics with the jacket but at a minimum expect to be able to at least shake hands comfortably. What is customary when obvious flaws like this occur? Thank you!
I must admit I followed my tailor for a long time before I was able to actually put my order in. He moved twice and now has his own house which is why I stepped up for the first order. Going for my second this year.
The show always is so helpful. Thank you both.
Thank you Alex. Have a wonderful Sunday! Hugo & Sonya
Your wisdom is much appreciated. Cheers Hugo and Sonya!
Thank you very much Charlie! Hugo & Sonya
I started my bepoke journey when I moved to Japan with Tailor Caid, he is such a wonderful tailor that when I commissioned my first order he guided me through the enitre process and helped me avoid some of the mistakes mentioned in this video. The only mistake I made was entirely on me, that I went to him too soon just when I was still dealing with the stress of moving to a new country and a getting used to a new career, which I lost a lot of weight during that period, and as he was working on my suit I gradually settled in my new life and went back to my usual weight, so between my first and second fitting I gained like 4 kilos which was not insignificant.
Hello everyone! Thank you Hugo and Sonya for another wonderful video. Always appreciate you
Thank you friend! Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
Thank you so much for this great and informative video. I am starting my MTM journey in January 2025. This video helps me to be even better prepared when I meet my tailor the first time. I have chosen my tailoring house in the meantime. I will commission my suit with Redmayne, located on Wigton, UK.
You both have won a new subscriber.
Great advice! While I have an extensive bespoke wardrobe I’ve made the mistake you mentioned with respect to my posture. I recently retired and have done a blazer with contacting button holes, which is fun.
The opinion of experienced people is always a treasure, thank you very much)
You're very welcome Philip! Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
I watch your videos from Nigeria and I love them. Supposedly, we in the third world either do not love or know nothing about the sartorial world but it isn’t true 😂. Love ur channel, it’s educating and inspiring.
Hello, I am Andres Magana from Mexico, I discovered your channel two weeks ago. First, as a catholic I want to say that I love your humility, remains me to Christs! Secondly, I want to say thank you MUCHAS GRACIAS for everything that you two are teaching me. I am watching your videos from older to newer. Now I am in 2018 I will watch all your videos I hope that one day I can meet you two and have a sandwich together, and a coffee. By the way I want to start a made to measure business ! Last by not least, you have a House in SAN PEDRO Garza Garcia, Nuevo León and are really welcome here! GRACIAS!!!!
Saludos Andres que puedas complir tu sueño compadre. Necesitamos más tailors que conoscan de Sartorial..
Nice video. I’ve almost exclusively done MTM (US companies for the most part) for twenty years. Just don’t fit well off the rack. I’d seriously love to do bespoke, probably English, but what are the real prices? In 2024 you really can’t ignore cost. The days of if you have to ask you can’t afford it are gone. I can afford it, but it’s competing with other wants in my life. Most, maybe all, of the Saville Row houses more or less invite anyone to walk in off the street, which seems strangely odd. Maybe next time I’m in London I’ll visit a couple just for research. There’s a psychology here as well…
Thanks Mark. You're right, times have changed for sure. All my best, Hugo
Great advice as always. Very nice looking tile.
You mean "tie"? Cheers, Hugo
Great points about ordering bit by bit and ESPECIALLY about telling the tailor it's not a rush.
I don't see any issue on discussing price, in particular it's important to know how they are pricing different cloths etc to make the best value decision for yourself and in accordance with what you're prepared to spend. Also they are business people it's certainly acceptable to negotiate but of course there is a right and wrong way to do it. Certainly wouldn't expect a discount on normal list price just buying a normal suit.
Recently, I made that very mistake - I told my tailor not to rush, and, well, after waiting quite a long time, I ended up nudging them a little. And I decided never say ‘take your time’ again! 😂 I’ve learnt so much from you. Cheers ❤🍝🍷
We can relate to that my friend haha! All our best, Hugo & Sonya
I hear you. I did exactly the same on my last commission and in general. In my work I deal with creatives and artists all day long and I think you should never rush a creative process. I gave my tailor a very reasonable deadline (he had 5 months) towards the end of which I also started nudging and it’s normal. I’ll keep telling my tailor to take his time, it’s important he know that I appreciate his art, but with a deadline 😉
@@SARTORIALTALKS I really love your view on the fragile boundary between fun and obsession.
As a Asian it took me some time to learn Italian culture. For example, I noticed that they sometimes alter or add details without consulting the customer first, as they believe it’s for the better.
However, I gradually started to appreciate this. I feel Italians manage to bring a lot of fun and joy into both work and life, which is why there are so many artisans still passionately active in their fields even into their 80s, and their work is truly beautiful.
@@goggo9 Hello, Goggo, thank you for your suggestion! Setting a reasonable timeline is great. I also noticed that tailors prioritize making clothes for weddings and for influencers or celebrities, which confirms Ms. Sonya’s point.
HAHHAH As a bespoke tailor of men's historical suits [1890 - 1940] you have to be patient if you want a suit from me. But I never take a commission and sit on it. When I take your order I start your suit and its usually about 2 months. But it may be 2 years before I can take your order.
Great video but a little late for me, lol. I'm a first-time client and have commissioned two suits in the last year from two different tailors, one British (Henry Poole) and the other Italian (Eric Jensen of Stefano Bemer). In addition, I commissioned a navy blue blazer from Henry Poole as well. While that might be considered a mistake since I haven't finished the first suit yet, nobody does a blue blazer as well as the British imho, so I feel pretty good about it. Luckily, I avoided all the other mistakes or at least I think I have.
Btw Sonya, I'm also a University of Georgia graduate, Class of 1980. I grew up in Athens, and my parents were both on the UGa faculty. My mom was the Journalism 101 professor for many years, so if you were majoring in journalism you had to go through her. This was before your time though, I'm sure. While growing up, whenever I would bump into a reporter or tv journalist, they would say, "Are you related to Dr. Bethune at UGa? She was the coolest teacher I ever had." And I would think, "My Mom? Cool?" lol
For all of you who are thinking of going bespoke, I can tell you from my perspective it has been a wonderful experience so far. I tell my tailor what I'm looking for in terms of general color, three piece, and how I anticipate wearing it and pretty much let them decide the rest as we discuss the details. I even told both of them to surprise me with the lining, lol.
Thank you sir for your comment. I will let Sonya answer you directly about UGA. As for Henry Poole, we know them quite well and have a good relationship with Simon Cundey (and we also used to know Alex Cooke who unfortunately passed away in 2023, a great loss for our community). Warmly, Hugo
I found my Neapolitan tailor, just waiting for the right time to travel there. Lots of good advice in this video.
Thank you sir! And all our best for your Neapolitan tailoring experience! Hugo & Sonya
Wow...perfect timing. I'm in Portugal and an online MTM company called I-Tailor Gold is touring major European cities over the next month giving free 30 minute consulting and measurements appointments with their expert tailor, as well as a review of hundreds of fabrics. My first thought was I would need much more than 30 minutes...even for a relatively inexpensive suit (starting at 600 euro!)
Honestly, it should take more than 30 minutes.
You need to be careful with the MTM offerings, their 'tailor' may be some guy that takes measurements. If you can't cut, draw, or sew, can you really call yourself a tailor?
When using any MTM service, you will have to be prepared for some 'sacrificial garments', while they figure out your sizes.
I would suggest getting a shirt done first, that is usually the body measurement and some immediate changes can be sorted.
That's a good advice from TheEldarGuy. Cheers, Hugo
Speaking of neapolitan tailoring, I've seen Hugo wear a beautiful pink Saint Gregory suit; is there any review or comments on the suis or this tailor shop? Thanks
Great topic: thats why we send a intake form and list of points to consider.
I love your videos and the music too.
the situation when I "like" a video even before watching one. Merci, Hugo and Sonya!
You live dangerously my friend haha! All my best, Hugo
I went to a small tailor in Naples and she farmed out a jacket and a suit. The jacket and suit jacket were both noticeably smaller than the first suit jacket she made for me. I will never use her again and I won't refer anyone to her. Before her I used a larger tailoring house in Naples and I never had and still haven't a problem with them and the consistency of their garments.
Well, it's rare, but of course it can happen. Sorry for you my friend. All our best, Hugo & Sonya
Hi Sonya, I've always wondered what fabric your denim suit is made from. Any details about it? Excellent video, as always!
It's a bespoke suit by Dalcuore in Napoli. I'm not sure, but I think it comes from Holland&Sherry. All my best, Sonya
For myself, the bottom of my chest pocket aligns with my armpit. Whereas I noticed Hugo’s is aligned with the top of his chest pocket. Would mine be considered too high?
Speaking of speaking Italian. I am fluent but do not know even the most basic sartorial terms in Italian, nor can I find them in my dictionary. Do you know where I can find a lexicon of useful sartorial words like peak lapel, jetted pockets, vents, darts, etc. since literal translation does not work well on artisanal, artistic, or technical terms in my experience.
Very great advice and what is your opinion on JCREW for those who still working with a budget compared to suitsupply in regards to the RTW lines
Well, in my humble opinion Suit Supply is superior. By far actually. You should check Enzo Custom, a very good and affordable MTM with which we negotiated a code (hugoj). With the code you can have a good custom suit for less than $400. All our best, Hugo
Hugo, I’m a Peluso customer and if you need a help with language or just someone to hang out with next time you’re in italy, just let me know.
Pino is a great guy and his English while being "artisanal" is sufficient for mutual understanding. Abbraccio! Hugo
Could you do something about pairing shoes with suits. You have done suits, shoes but putting them together is something I struggle with.
Yes William, we'll do! Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
Thank you! May I ask for your recommendations on MTM tailors in London?
There are many good options in London. Cad & the Dandy, Edward Sexton (MTM offer), Redmayne (excellent reputation) and many others. Cheers, Hugo
The Yatangaki shop is great
Hi there, can you recommend tailors in Southern Spain, please? We live in Cádiz. Thank you!
Thank you for your videos❤
Such an informative ‘chat’ giving some great advice.
If a man is fortunate enough to purchase such a ‘bespoke’ suit and to spend many thousands of pounds you need all the help and the saying ‘quality, quality, quality’ always wins.
I refer to King Charles
He is always dressed impeccably - especially in Samoa in the last 2 days with that white shirt with a type of cummerbund to connect to Samoa
Made by Anderson & Shepard , Bespoke ,
Old Burlington Street
London w1
🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🏴👍 👍 ❤️❤️😃😃🤩🤩
Anderson & Sheppard is probably next on my list of tailors.
We know A&S for many many years. We were good friends with John Hitchcock (one of their iconic master tailors back in the years) and we know Anda Rowland quite well. Great company and good people. Cheers, Hugo
Great advice 👍
Many thanks Anthony! Hugo
So, if I am happy with the first suit by a specific taylor, then it's fine and totally reasonable to order 3 pairs of trousers, 3 jackets and 3 suits, right?
Well, at least I followed some if your advice and already commissioned very seasonal garmets, like a linen suit and thick tweed jackets. My taylor also makes me do a bit of gymnastics to evaluate the fit, which is his defense against sucked in bellies and unnatural posture.
Of course, totally fine! I stray away from commissioning too much at once though because taste always changes a bit and wearing more bespoke tailoring always gives me ideas on what to change on my next commission.
@@teekue Indeed, that has happened to me. Thankfully I had the help of an experienced friend who prevented any disastrous results!
Of course, if you're happy with your first commissions, it's more than advised to continue with the same tailor. Cheers, Hugo
Please make video on best MTM in India
Good morning. In India we had a good experience with PN Rao. Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
Thank you both!
One of my mistakes was for my first bespoke overcoat in 2017. I picked out a lovely 22oz Fox Brothers fabric in navy and just asked for it as a double breasted.
I should have been more explicit with the style as it was only when the overcoat was finished that they had cut as a 6x2 with large, peaked lapels (hadn’t noticed or questioned what the lapels will be like at the basted stage).
Seven years on, I still love wearing it when dressed formally but that has been the only time I can.
I bet you could wear it more often. Nothing wrong--and a lot right--with being the best dressed man in the room. Besides, isn't the overcoat the first thing to come off when you enter the room? It sounds like a lovely overcoat, btw.
Good morning Neil. You mean your lapels were too large? Because if it's actual bespoke, it would have been easy to reduce them. And btw peak lapels are the way to go for DB's. All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Salut Hugo. Thank you for your reply. When I commissioned the overcoat, I think I had an Ulster overcoat in mind - a style that I think can be bridged well between casual and formal. However, excitement probably got the better of me and just asking for a double breasted resulted with them assuming I wanted peak lapels (like you find on a polo overcoat). It’s a full bespoke from my tailor and was my first overcoat.
Nonetheless, I wore it for the first time this season last week and my goodness it felt good. In fact, I’ll try combining with high-low dressing (so not restricted with a suit and tie). In fact, talking about this has me looking forward to the cold weather and trying new combinations with it!
There is so much confusion about bespoke. People think it's bespoke just because it's not off the rack. I have about 7 suits and 2 tuxedos... all MTM. I took advantage of the B&D offer and am waiting for the first fitting. Having suits made is a learning experience. My advice to the young men around me is who have asked me... start with MTM.
Absolutely my friend. MTM is the best first step. Cheers, Hugo
@18:36, Indian prime minister Narendra Modi was gifted the same kind of suit by someone. He wore it and made it popular. Opposition parties rebuked him and his party by calling it a party of millionaires.
Then Narendra Modi auctioned the same suit, it sold for huge amount and Mr.Modi gave it to the charity.
What ever happened to the two pairs of pants with your suit? I have never seen this in any store. Did it ever really happen?
Sucking in the beer belly? I've actually been thinking a bit about the saying about a good tailor being able to take off 10 pounds, and then how much a good surgeon would... But I assume this is good advice. 🙂
And then on having your name in the weave? That actually reminds me of Wooster having his initials woven into the corner of his pocket squares, and then Jeeves referring to them as his novelty pocket squares. 😂
That's a matter of taste and ego. Personally I just use my initials on my shirts because it's a tradition here (that comes from ancient times when it was the only way for the laundry people to know whose shirt was whom as all the shirts used to look exactly the same). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS That is a good point, and I would very much agree with anyone finding Jeeves a bit too strict on this point. I assume my sense of style would not get his approval on many points. Though your name in the weave of an outer garment? Only slightly better than the name of your tailor across your back. :D
My Kiton overcoat that is RTW is already over 17k USD - 14k Euro for a Bespoke coat isn't that crazy. Vicuna coat would cost 40k USD.
Pinstripes of your name? It is very useful Mr Jacomet - without them, what on earth would I do if I were to forget my name? 😂
Hahahaha. You're right my friend! Hugo
Hi Hugo this is charlie I love your videos your cool I am in classic man style
Thanks Charlie! Hugo
Why is it deemed improper to request a discount on a bespoke suit? High-value purchases, such as homes, cars, and businesses, typically involve negotiation. Some believe that asking for a discount offends the artisan tailor, but isn't the same true for architects and builders? Also, suit companies/tailors negotiate with their suppliers as part of their procurement process thus various markups are passed on to the customer. What explains the double standards and taboos surrounding cost negotiation?
Bespoke tailors are not retailers. Do you get the difference?
When you ask a tailor for a discount, what the tailor hears is that you are asking him or her take a pay cut to make your suit. That "discount" has to come from somewhere, and you can bet the tailor's supplier, landlord or accountant won't be willing to cough up the money so it ends up coming straight out of the tailor's income. Imagine if your boss came to you and asked you to take a pay cut because you are a high-value employee. How would that make you feel?
Now, if you're a multi-repeat customer perhaps your tailor would be willing to offer small discounts, like tossing in a freebie ticket pocket, because you have provided him or her with a somewhat steady income over the years. Totally up to the tailor. Let him volunteer.
Personally, I would never use the word "discount" with a tailor.
Dear friends, we don't say it's forbidden to negotiate with a tailor (although it's not usual in the bespoke world). We just point out that the tradition is to not speak about money with the tailor during the fitting appointments. You can speak about money with they commercial assistant (if there's one) or their administration manager. The idea is the one of a "gentleman agreement", which never involve hard negotiation unlike the examples you talk about. Anyway, soft speaking and humble behaviour is part of the bespoke culture, if this still means something in 2024. Warmly, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hugo, thank you for your thoughtful and balanced explanation.
Wow. Do you have any idea how many a week 1200 a year is. OMG.
I like you en your beautiful wife so much. Love listening to you. Thanks for al you wise advice
You didn't condemn skinny fit to hell or even worse! Skinny fit doesn't fit!!!!!!
No worries, I will never have such poor economic sense as to buy bespoke suit. If your body is the same after the 5~6 months it takes them to make it, what are you doing? Overpriced and problematic, this business is for silly beginners imo 😮
Haha, that's not true my friend. A bespoke suit can be almost infinitely altered. As for the "poor economic sense", well it's a matter of priorities. Anyway, have a nice week-end! Cheers, Hugo
@SARTORIALTALKS well, not if you go up in sizes by let's say more than one size. And even losing a lot of weight there comes a point where it does not make a lot of sense to alter it further.
@@SARTORIALTALKS hehe "priorities" is just another word for poor economics to me :) Yes, have a nice weekend, and please do not misunderstand, I am a follower for many years.
@@TheRealFeechLaManna No worries my friend. Cheers!