Thank you for continuing to share your sartorial journey. I love that this channel is “Sartorial Talks” and not “Sartorial Lists” It would be fun to have a similar series for Sonia’s suits
I'd like to thank you Hugo and Sonya on helping me on my satorial journey. Not a long time ago i started to dress more classical and elegant, and I absolutely love it. Much love!
Hats off for you sir! I am a young person just finishing high school and i am highly intrigued by your sartorial journey and style! I think we've complimented everything about you except your glasses! Please would you mind making a video about those as well? I think glasses equally add some style which could be a game changer!
Dear Eddie, I advise you look at this video: th-cam.com/video/94wj9n_26g8/w-d-xo.html Maison Bonnet in Paris (and London) is my spectacles bespoke maker. Cheers, Hugo
My new Pino Peluso’s suit will be delivered in the next days and I can’t wait to try it on. Good to hear that you’re also one of his clients, wonderful collection.
I just received a navy chalk stripe suit very similar to your “Chicago gangster” one from Ruby Slevin at Banshee Saville Row. I love the drama and sturdiness! If you and Sonya ever make it to London, I recommend them very much.
Hugo I really enjoyed your newest additions to your wardrobe. Especially your Harris tweed jacket very nice and your cashmere jacket. It just goes to show sometimes you can take that chance to step out of your comfort zone and expand your style. i’ve been following your channel for a couple years now and I’m learning to take those risks and step out of my comfort zone and your channel has helped me do that as well thank you so much to you and Sonia 😊
17:13 This video of him modeling is perfect, my usual complaint is that the suit he is talking about gets shown in a Pic. for 2 seconds (x2 speed). Can you do a video on Hugo's tan riding boots? I saw them mentioned in a pic for 2 seconds...
Whilst it’s always a pleasure to hear your talks Hugo, I found this one particularly inspiring. The reason? Safari jackets! I’ve been looking for something that sits between the elegant and the practical - but every idea I had just didn’t sit well, for one reason or another. Thank you for your continued insight.
Your channel is the epitome of quality over quantity! Thank you for another insight into your journey. I have recently taken your advice regarding pocket squares: I purchased two! A white one and the famous “rust” pocket square that you like so much. The rust one has a paisley pattern, to add some panache! I find it really elevates my outfit when I wear a jacket. Many thanks for your advice and guidance.
Merci François. Brave we'll stay (even if Stanford University now advise not to use this word for "diversity sensitivity" reasons... This world is becoming mad). Cheers, Hugo
Effortlessly cool as always, and really appreciate the honesty of this series by explaining the humble start, and not being afraid to go M2M whilst highlighting the benefits this can bring. I'm saving up for my first bespoke summer suit, which will be a linen one, but I had an awesome blue suit made for me by Kashket while instructing at Sandhurst. This was my first experience of multiple fits, and they also produced my Mess Dress. Now I have 2 more suits from New & Lingwood, which I bought second hand & have been adjusted. I also found a vintage 100% cashmere overcoat, which I adore! Thank you for highlighting the multiple ways & routes we can all enjoy these fantastic clothes!
Another amazing episode as normal Hugo, Sonya. You can definitely see that you are really playing with colour, style, and fabric, with these eight suits/jackets. The yellow suit story and being bold at is exactly how I want to be, to play with colour and being brave with colour. Will you be doing something similar with Sonya's latest selection?
Dear Alexander, being bold with colours is one of our last freedoms in this over-controlled world! Maybe we'll do something about Sonya's wardrobe one day or another. Her taste is just incredible. Best, Hugo
Hugo, I could live the same in Buenos Aires, Argentina the last winter with My red overcoat. All the people were looking me and some of them ask me where I come from. My answer left them with a big surprise. Cheers, Roman!!!
Hugo what a fantastic video. As a fellow European in my case Ireland I love the content. Harris Tweed and Cashmere jackets are wonderful. Getting my first MTM suit soon. Will certainly take some ideas from you, Sonya and Kirby. Edit: 100% will consider The Owners in Prague for future needs.
Good afternoon Hugo and Sonya, I hope that this finds you both well, once again a fantastic video and insight into your own personal life and commissions, some truly amazing pieces and again your help and advice really is great help sartorially, and secondly your final words is so I am trying everyday to implement into my life, so thank you so much once again , your friend Ryan.
I love the pinstripe suits, Hugo! And I completely agree about having a seasonal wardrobe. One really needs to have some lighter weight suits to wear on a hot summer day and some good, thick, heavy ones to keep you warm in winter. People just don't seem to understand this anymore.
Dear Hugo, dear Sonya! Could you PLEASE dedicate an episode to how to protect these precious garnments in general an from clothes moths in particular? This would be much appreciated! Thank you in advance and all the best!
Suggesting an alternative name for the very interesting `Japanese Jacket´: the `Jockey Jacket´. It looks inspired by horse riding. Did Lorenzo do a single vent on this? It is a very juvenil design too. Did you try it with a turtle or mock neck?
I didn't but I may try. I never though about the juvenile aspect (probably created by the tiny lapels). Anyway I like this jacket even if it's not that easy to pull off. All my best, Hugo
I love your videos. If I have an old jacket from my grandfather that is falling apart, but I want to have made a new one with it as inspiration, but with a different fabric, where is it best to go?
I think a yellow suit especially works depending on the fabric. Because I think many people relate a yellow-suit with artificial fabrics and then it looks cheap. But with good fabric, I think yellow could look very good. I saw a yellow sport jacket and so many ideas started coming into my mind. Wear the yellow jacket with black pants and shirt. Yellow jacket with white/black/brown/blue pants. And the different shoes.... Extremely flexible color. But starting out, yes, it would probably be #12 or so.... Love the bold green window pane and the 3 piece is extremely elegant. You can tell the fabric on the tuxedo is fantastic. It drapes and moves extremely well. I had a bespoke white double-breasted jacket I wore to a black and white ball several decades ago. When my date got cold and lended her my jacket, she didn't want to take it off at the end of the night! Thank you for including MTM. While I would love to go bespoke. My priority is a nicer place to live before spending the money on a bespoke suit. The fabric and fit with good MTM can be so superior than OTR and cheaper options. Thanks for the video!
Dear Giannis, I don't remember (as my tailor picked this fabric by himself). Send Dormeuil an email (or a DM on Instagram) with a screenshot of my suit, and they will answer you for sure. Cheers, Hugo
i am a month too late to this video, great lineup as always Hugo. Would it be possible to make a video of what Hugo and Sonya wear as causal wear when you are not wearing tailored suits.
Lovely pieces. Speaking of films: you've probably already seen it, but in the off chance you haven't - the Phantom Thread is worth a watch. It's a beautiful film set in the 1950s about a troubled dressmaker; I believe Anderson and Sheppard were commissioned to provide the men's tailoring for the film. It's a good 'un!
Hello Hugo and Sonya! I'm a great fan of your work! Enjoying every video and recently every letter of 'The Italian gentlemen'. Now I've perhaps a silly question, but considering my second suit to be grey, my first is a single breasted dark blue birds eye, 120's fabric, patch pockets, pleated and cuffed trousers, would you recommend a grey flannel or grey fresco (I live in Netherlands) looking for highest level of versatility? I work in the IT industry, so full-suit is very,very rare, and look to wear the jacket and trouser separate more frequent. Hope you could give some guidance and share your thought! Thank you in advance! Keep up the great work of inspiration. Yours sincerely, Luuk
Dear Luuk, as we lived in Amsterdam between 2012 and 2014, we know the climate there very well. Thus I think flannel (with a reasonable weight) would be more adapted to the Netherlands. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you so much for taking the time to respond! I heard you mention living in Amsterdam before, so nice! I hope you liked our country, although we may have less sartorial history compared to France, Italy or England. I appreciate the advice on the grey suit! My girlfriend and I will visit Paris in a couple of weeks. I'm looking very much forward to my first Scavini visit, and make sure to view their flannels! Thanks again Hugo!
What I want to know is what are the proper dimensions for a coat? How long should the sleeves be and how low should a jacket hang? Does he have any videos to answer these questions? I'm starting this journey getting a suit and need to know what to look for in a tailor as well.
Your videos are very informative and inspired! Living in Athens, Greece, having seasonal suits used to be a must a few decades ago, before all the cheap polyester off-the-rack chains invaded the market. Summers are scorching at 35-43°C, so one can only stand wearing cotton or linen, but winters can be a chilly 0-10°C, so wool is the best option. My father always tells me of having seasonal suits made by his tailor in the 70's and 80's, and he is appalled when people want a year-round suit 🙂 It's sad that the traditional craftsmanship of tailors here is getting lost, as they age and retire. In the 90's I remember an area where all the reputable tailors were located, but now they are almost gone ☹️
Please, if you guys have the time… I would love for you and Sonya to do an episode on the “Les Compagnons du Devoir”. You mentioned them some while back and they sound like an interesting organisation. That would make an interesting video :-) ❤
We actually have one show planned on the subject with a young "compagnon" who just crafted a pair of bespoke shoes for me (as part of his apprenticeship). All my best to you! Hugo
Mr Jacomet. I enjoy your videos a lot. Also I recently bought your book The Italian Gentleman. Amazing journey! I am just wondering. Because I want to make a bespoke suit. But I am also a bit hesitant because of the issue of weight. When we reach a certain age unfortunately it can be hard to have a stable weight. I am afraid of paying a lot for a bespoke suit and maybe not be able to fit it after a few years. How to solve this issue? I am in the beginning of my journey and I only have a few MTM suits. Thanks for your time.
Hugo, as always great video! I live in a country where we don't have great bespoke suit tailors. They always place the buttons very close on a double breasted suit jacket as a result of which it ruins the look. Could you explain in one of your videos how far the buttons should be placed on a 4 button or 6 button double breasted suit jacket? Would really appreciate it.
Dear friend, it's just a matter of visual "common sense" and taste and not a matter of mathematics. A good tailor should know what to do in order to make a jacket look good. If not, move to another one. All my best, Hugo
Very nice. As always you are giving me some great ideas for my own sartorial journey. I'm interested in your thoughts, for I tried something new. I had a shirt made for me using bamboo fabric. For me, it feels great. Have you tried wearing bamboo? What are your thoughts?
A little bit off topic, i have to admit, sorry for that: I am going to get my first semi bespoke suit. It will be a seersucker stripe suit. What kind of shoes will match to this suit???
Loved this video and the new garments! I particularly like the odd jackets you showcase here, Hugo, because we're so used to seeing you in a suit that having odd jackets is something positively different. To give my 2 cents on the black tie points you made - the idea is that, in my experience, black tie events in this day and age vary a lot depending on the particular event. You may have a very conservative black tie occasion - maybe some professional organization you're part of is organizing, or maybe you're wearing black tie at the opera or something like that - and in these instances I would probably stick to traditional black tie and keep the rule-breaking to a minimum. But if you're going to a party where most people know each other, or is in a more relaxed atmosphere, maybe at someone's personal residence, or in a resort - i.e. a black tie event that is eiher more casual by the nature of the occasion or location, or more intimate in setting or in terms of your relationship to the other attendees - than you can break a lot of rules and just have a bit of fun. It's one of the few occasions where, I feel, you can actually dress purely to enjoy yourself and to experiment. Various dinner jacket fabrics and colors, different accessories and even odd vests might work. Belgian loafers can work too I think. I've done this personally and really enjoyed it, but I admit, it is on very rare occasions that I got the opportunity to do it. Cheers!
Ciao Hugo, is there a good mtm house in Napoli to have fun clothes made (where you don’t want to pay for bespoke). Also, I saw you write about sartoria cuomo, who would you choose between sartoria cuomo & pirozzi?
Hello Hugo, I was wondering if you have any advice on sartorial vintage shopping in Paris. Kirby Allison has recommended Hornets in London but I haven’t been able to find anything similar online in Paris. Thank you in advance!
Paris is not a sartorial vintage paradise but you have a few nice places for connoisseurs like, for example, chez Ammar (instagram.com/chez_ammar/). Hope it helps, Hugo
Thank you Hugo, I’m looking forward to commissioning a MTM suit in the near future because of your influence. I’m between Lanieri and Enzo custom, two firms you have covered. Between these two do you have a preference, I know of course you have an Enzo custom suit you are happy with. Thank you for your help!
Another enjoyable update on your sartorial story Hugo. Thank you Sonya for filming this latest episode. Love the red jacket you are wearing. I am not sure I could get away with the yellow jacket though ! Lovely story of the 50 tourists led by the flag waving guide dazzled by the man in yellow. Fantastic that you are sourcing clothing from new up and coming tailors as well as the “greats”.
Dear Alan, this red suit is a bespoke suit by the excellent Detlev Diehm (bespoke tailor in Munich Germany) with a great flannel from the bunch "Queen's Awardby Fox Brothers (unfortunately discontinued if I'm right). Thanks for your kind words of encouragement, Hugo
hi hugo, apa kabar ?! greetings from indonesia ! please advise us which fabric perform the best for a shirt with a very hot and humid climate ? its like 37 - 40°C and always above 90% of humidity here in indonesia, and cotton didn't perfom well during the day, thanks a lot for keep making educating content !
Indeed, I have been obsessed for some time with having a zafari jacket made. My last doubts about the design would be: 1.- Linen or cotton? 2.- 3 or 4 buttons? 3.- Khaki or grey? Can you suggest me something? Of course: without lining and without structure, I live in a hot climate, Mexico, that's why I hope that the guacamole is worth the pain suffered XD Buen provecho!
Dear Oscar, go for quality linen (cotton is way too thick and non breathable) and 4 buttons. The colour can be anything, depending on your taste. I hope it helps, Hugo
I have many made to measure suits. unfortunately the current trend is slim fit trousers. mine are straight leg, think 18 inch bottoms. which look fine but look v wide compared to slim fit any suggestions. thank u
@@SARTORIALTALKS hugo really you are like John trovolta.... One day or one I will gift you fully bespoke suits from India to you (France)... We have genius tailor in Delhi... Don't forget my name.... Shukra❤❤❤
I really laughed when you told the story about your yellow suit in Prague :-) Thanks for the tip about the film 'The Outfit' too...I'll be checking (ahem) that out. Merci Hugo. Tony p.s I'm planning to holiday near Naples this summer....I might have to take a trip to the city to look (probably look only) at the Neapolitan suit style.
You were in India!? I so wish I could meet you and take you to the roads and towns less travelled. I am an Indian of course!! PS - The wearing of suits is much less common in India except a few specific echelons. Did you wear suits everywhere here!?
@@SARTORIALTALKS thanks a lot. Was it warm or cool!!? And now that you visited India Do you suggest wearing suits in the summer and should it be a certain kind of fabric, if any!!? Much love, dearest Hugo!
@@parthivchakraborty8253 It was a good climate (around 20/25 Celsius) in Bengaluru. Of course you can wear suits or sport jackets in the summer with summer fabrics: tropical wool (around 200gr), blends of wool, silk, cotton but of course also the king of summer fabrics, which is linen. Cheers, Hugo
If I recall correctly, 400g+ for a suiting fabric in England was a norm back then (50s/60s). It’s quite interesting how the same weight is now considered a winter fabric 😬
I don't have mannequins...but I bought a vintage chair and use it as a valet stand. I bought it in a small shop a few blocks from my apartment and walked down the street with people watching me carry this old fashioned chair down the sidewalk for several blocks
@@SARTORIALTALKS thanks for letting me know! I know there are slight differences in fit and style even between the Neapolitan tailors. While the old school Neapolitan tailors cuts slightly longer and roomier jackets (ciardi, Pirozzi) and the newer tailors tend to cut slimmer and shorter ones (solito), where would you say Peluso tends to prefer?
Bonjour Hugo et Sonya! My apologies in advance for the long comment, but as you say - you are French and we are exchanging ideas! I always enjoy your episodes, but in particular the segment about your white dinner jacket as an homage to Monsieur Bogart in Casablanca struck a chord with me. The finished jacket is sublime. I must agree that indeed our opportunities to attend formal events seem few and far between these days, even for us living in NYC. As you well know outside of the few sartorialists (which is hopefully growing), formal dress is seen as a chore rather than an occasion to celebrate in and of itself. Despite that prevalent sentiment, I decided a couple years back that I would wear black tie to any and all civilized events after 6pm. This certainly includes a ballet or an opera, but also simply dinner for two or an evening of jazz and cocktails. I find that it elevates any evening out and after all isn't that the point? My experience has been nothing but positive; we almost always get a prime table or a round of champagne just for our efforts and we often get questions along the lines of "what event are you coming from or going to?", to which I reply "This is it my friend!". With the inspiration from your channel and the community at-large, my hope is that one fine evening in the near future when we venture out for martinis, we will be met with a sea of dinner-jackets and gowns as if were the golden age again. One can dream, and I'm doing my best! Santé!
Indeed, indeed! We are in the same boat, friend. I, too wear black tie for elegant dinners out, ballroom dance events, and certain performing arts events. One caveat: I break out white tie for the opera and ballet, formal dances, and special galas or balls. I agree that my experience has been almost nothing but positive - I've even had patrons at restaurants cover my checks purely for my dress. Also, when going to formal afternoon tea, matinee operas and ballets, and on certain holidays like Easter, I wear full formal morning dress. I have three morning dress ensembles: a charcoal coat with striped trousers, a morning suit (minus the matching waistcoat), and a stroller. For the significant majority of other events, it's a suit and tie, or at least seperates and cravat.
That's a beautiful dream which may (one day) come true my friend. The sartorial movement is still discreet (euphemism) but is on the other hand, very well alive and growing everywhere. Santé mon ami ! Hugo
@@themoderndandy713 You are our hero my friend. On another subject, Sonya and I are always traveling in suits and ties, and we can't count the number of priority lines we were offered (even when flying economy on short hauls), the number of smiles, kindness and free champagne we receive on board (without talking about upgrades). Cheers, Hugo
I wish I could get my wife to want a suit. We have a local (made to measure) tailor that does suits for women but my wife thinks she's unworthy or something (I can't even claim it's a cultural thing as she's from Georgia like Sonya and she's definitely rocking those suits)
The light gray Cifonelli is superbe on you. Maybe one day you do a color analysis hopefully with Sonya. spring, summer, autumn, winter and different intensities. Not sure if Hugo is a Winter or a Summer???
@@SARTORIALTALKS Sorry Hugo for bothering you. It's the thing where you determine your skin undertone and then go for cool or warm colors to perfect your outfits. If you're cool and low contrast that's called a summer type. Just mentioned it because the light gray Dormeuil looks especially flattering on you.
@@chepibe2011 Ok I understand. It's a little bit too long here to explain all this. Do you have the book "Dressing the Man" by Alan Flusser? If yes all is explained in details in this book. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo, good afternoon - I wanted to recommend a bespoke suit tailor here in suburban New Jersey, whom you may wish to visit if you are ever back on the East Coast. His name is Pasquale and he works out of Shaffer’s Tailors in Lawrenceville, New Jersey. I would link his website, but it seems to upset the bots and my comments get deleted. I hope you will look him up.
Dear Brian, we have to moderate the links on this thread otherwise it will become a mess with many people trying to advertise themselves at our expense. I will look them up of course. Cheers, Hugo
The video we've all been waiting for.
I hope Sonya does a video series like this about her suits.
Why not my friend. Cheers, Hugo
I love the preamble. Praise the Lord. M.
@@rovercoupe7104 Praise God. Have a wonderful Sunday my friend!
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you. You too. M.
I was going to say the same thing :)
Thank you for continuing to share your sartorial journey. I love that this channel is “Sartorial Talks” and not “Sartorial Lists”
It would be fun to have a similar series for Sonia’s suits
Many thanks Hassan for your kind words. Hugo
I'd like to thank you Hugo and Sonya on helping me on my satorial journey. Not a long time ago i started to dress more classical and elegant, and I absolutely love it. Much love!
Congratulations! Hugo
Hats off for you sir! I am a young person just finishing high school and i am highly intrigued by your sartorial journey and style!
I think we've complimented everything about you except your glasses! Please would you mind making a video about those as well?
I think glasses equally add some style which could be a game changer!
Dear Eddie, I advise you look at this video: th-cam.com/video/94wj9n_26g8/w-d-xo.html
Maison Bonnet in Paris (and London) is my spectacles bespoke maker. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you so much !😊
My new Pino Peluso’s suit will be delivered in the next days and I can’t wait to try it on. Good to hear that you’re also one of his clients, wonderful collection.
I saw, I clicked!
Thanks David for your support! Cheers, Hugo
Same here brother....
I just received a navy chalk stripe suit very similar to your “Chicago gangster” one from Ruby Slevin at Banshee Saville Row. I love the drama and sturdiness! If you and Sonya ever make it to London, I recommend them very much.
Thanks Kat! Well noted! Hugo
Hugo I really enjoyed your newest additions to your wardrobe. Especially your Harris tweed jacket very nice and your cashmere jacket. It just goes to show sometimes you can take that chance to step out of your comfort zone and expand your style. i’ve been following your channel for a couple years now and I’m learning to take those risks and step out of my comfort zone and your channel has helped me do that as well thank you so much to you and Sonia 😊
Thank you very much Patrick for your kind and uplifting words. Best wishes, Hugo & Sonya
I wish to build a suit like that. Little by little I am building my wardrobe.
Blessings to you and Sonya!
Many thanks Kevin! God bless, Hugo
The way you present your wardrobe is unique and makes it something special. It's like two people talking to each other who know each other very wel
17:13 This video of him modeling is perfect, my usual complaint is that the suit he is talking about gets shown in a Pic. for 2 seconds (x2 speed). Can you do a video on Hugo's tan riding boots? I saw them mentioned in a pic for 2 seconds...
Dear Roger, thanks for your feed back. Of course if you use 2X the illustrations go 2 times faster !! Best, Hugo
Such beautiful colours and styles. You have given me some great ideas. Thank you for sharing with us.
You are very welcome 😁! Hugo
Dear JACOMET
Thank's for your advice. Im preparing a green flannel single breasted suit with a local tailor. You alwys inspired me.
Sincerly
Congratulations Yassine! All my best, Hugo
Whilst it’s always a pleasure to hear your talks Hugo, I found this one particularly inspiring. The reason? Safari jackets!
I’ve been looking for something that sits between the elegant and the practical - but every idea I had just didn’t sit well, for one reason or another. Thank you for your continued insight.
A Safari jacket is indeed a "must-have" (it took me so long to understand it!!). Cheers, Hugo
Thank you so much, we appreciate all your content.
Excellent episode as always and very wise words to end it off! Well done my friend!
Many thanks Nick for your loyalty and your support! Hugo
The Outfit was wonderful! Felt more like a play than a movie, and beautiful attention to the sartorial aspects.
I agree dear Koji. All the action takes place in the tailor's shop. Very well done. Cheers, Hugo
Your channel is the epitome of quality over quantity! Thank you for another insight into your journey.
I have recently taken your advice regarding pocket squares: I purchased two! A white one and the famous “rust” pocket square that you like so much. The rust one has a paisley pattern, to add some panache! I find it really elevates my outfit when I wear a jacket.
Many thanks for your advice and guidance.
Thanks for your kind words of encouragement my friend. And you're right, "rust never sleeps"! Cheers, Hugo
Each episod is a source of culture, history and good vibe ! Thx Hugo, keep being brave and above all Take Care of yourself.
Merci François. Brave we'll stay (even if Stanford University now advise not to use this word for "diversity sensitivity" reasons... This world is becoming mad). Cheers, Hugo
Thanks for this vocabulary update. Hopefully, it remains some "liberty" zone :)
Effortlessly cool as always, and really appreciate the honesty of this series by explaining the humble start, and not being afraid to go M2M whilst highlighting the benefits this can bring. I'm saving up for my first bespoke summer suit, which will be a linen one, but I had an awesome blue suit made for me by Kashket while instructing at Sandhurst. This was my first experience of multiple fits, and they also produced my Mess Dress. Now I have 2 more suits from New & Lingwood, which I bought second hand & have been adjusted. I also found a vintage 100% cashmere overcoat, which I adore! Thank you for highlighting the multiple ways & routes we can all enjoy these fantastic clothes!
Another amazing episode as normal Hugo, Sonya.
You can definitely see that you are really playing with colour, style, and fabric, with these eight suits/jackets. The yellow suit story and being bold at is exactly how I want to be, to play with colour and being brave with colour.
Will you be doing something similar with Sonya's latest selection?
Dear Alexander, being bold with colours is one of our last freedoms in this over-controlled world! Maybe we'll do something about Sonya's wardrobe one day or another. Her taste is just incredible. Best, Hugo
Thank u Maestro. Your knowledge is extremely valuable.
That's very kind of you. Thank you, Hugo
Way to go my friend. I love these series of videos. Keep up the good job. We learn a lot from you. Regards from Brazil.
Thanks Hugo (!), you're very kind! Cheers, Hugo
Fantastic, and very interesting to see Neapolitan Mediterranean style fused with Harris-tweed!
Much appreciation for all your knowledge
Thanks Jason for your kind words of encouragement. Hugo
Hugo, I could live the same in Buenos Aires, Argentina the last winter with My red overcoat. All the people were looking me and some of them ask me where I come from. My answer left them with a big surprise. Cheers, Roman!!!
😂 I can relate to that Ramiro! All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you so much Sir!!!
As usual the best men's fashion content 😊
That's very kind of you. Thank you! Hugo
Hugo what a fantastic video. As a fellow European in my case Ireland I love the content. Harris Tweed and Cashmere jackets are wonderful. Getting my first MTM suit soon. Will certainly take some ideas from you, Sonya and Kirby.
Edit: 100% will consider The Owners in Prague for future needs.
The Owners is a great option for sure. Very passionate people. Cheers, Hugo
Good afternoon Hugo and Sonya, I hope that this finds you both well, once again a fantastic video and insight into your own personal life and commissions, some truly amazing pieces and again your help and advice really is great help sartorially, and secondly your final words is so I am trying everyday to implement into my life, so thank you so much once again , your friend Ryan.
Thank you Ryan for your kindness and your loyalty. All our best to you and your family, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS my pleasure 😇
I'm so glad I found this channel. I am learning so much! I am busy saving for my first item in my sartorial journey :) - Black leather Oxford shoes!
I can always listen to Hugo.
I love the pinstripe suits, Hugo!
And I completely agree about having a seasonal wardrobe. One really needs to have some lighter weight suits to wear on a hot summer day and some good, thick, heavy ones to keep you warm in winter. People just don't seem to understand this anymore.
Dear Mike, fortunately more and more people seem to regain interest (even if little) in classic style. Best wishes, Hugo
Hello Hugo great content I’m just getting started and watching you makes it easy much love from Michigan 🥶
Great to read this! Thanks for your encouraging message. Hugo
Thank you! I look forward to all your content. 🙂🙂🙂
Thank you very much. Very kind. Hugo
Dear Hugo, dear Sonya! Could you PLEASE dedicate an episode to how to protect these precious garnments in general an from clothes moths in particular? This would be much appreciated! Thank you in advance and all the best!
Suggesting an alternative name for the very interesting `Japanese Jacket´: the `Jockey Jacket´. It looks inspired by horse riding. Did Lorenzo do a single vent on this? It is a very juvenil design too. Did you try it with a turtle or mock neck?
I didn't but I may try. I never though about the juvenile aspect (probably created by the tiny lapels). Anyway I like this jacket even if it's not that easy to pull off. All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS That jacket is beautiful. It really makes you younger . But what about the vents? Is is it one ore two?
I love your videos. If I have an old jacket from my grandfather that is falling apart, but I want to have made a new one with it as inspiration, but with a different fabric, where is it best to go?
I think a yellow suit especially works depending on the fabric. Because I think many people relate a yellow-suit with artificial fabrics and then it looks cheap. But with good fabric, I think yellow could look very good.
I saw a yellow sport jacket and so many ideas started coming into my mind. Wear the yellow jacket with black pants and shirt. Yellow jacket with white/black/brown/blue pants. And the different shoes.... Extremely flexible color. But starting out, yes, it would probably be #12 or so....
Love the bold green window pane and the 3 piece is extremely elegant.
You can tell the fabric on the tuxedo is fantastic. It drapes and moves extremely well. I had a bespoke white double-breasted jacket I wore to a black and white ball several decades ago. When my date got cold and lended her my jacket, she didn't want to take it off at the end of the night!
Thank you for including MTM. While I would love to go bespoke. My priority is a nicer place to live before spending the money on a bespoke suit. The fabric and fit with good MTM can be so superior than OTR and cheaper options.
Thanks for the video!
This channel is an oasis amongst the desert that is TH-cam
Thank you Marcus for your kind words of encouragement. All my best, Hugo
Another great episode, Hugo!
Can you recommend a brand for extra long ties? I'm quite tall and struggle with standard ties.
Take a look at the work of Ties your Ties in Florence. Cheers, Hugo
Good evening Hugo.great video as always.do you know from which bouncy is the dormeuil fabric?thank you
Dear Giannis, I don't remember (as my tailor picked this fabric by himself). Send Dormeuil an email (or a DM on Instagram) with a screenshot of my suit, and they will answer you for sure. Cheers, Hugo
Do you suggest that we store suits in some kind of garment bag (cloth or plastic)? Or just on a hanger?
I personally only use quality hangers (and treat my closet with anti-moth products like cedar pods). Best, Hugo
With that mission on MTM
tailoring I'd like to ask you to visit Pelikamo in Zurich, Basel, Bern if you ever visit Switzerland!
As always great content, glad to be subscribed for years now:)
Many thanks Seva! Hugo
i am a month too late to this video, great lineup as always Hugo. Would it be possible to make a video of what Hugo and Sonya wear as causal wear when you are not wearing tailored suits.
Lovely pieces. Speaking of films: you've probably already seen it, but in the off chance you haven't - the Phantom Thread is worth a watch. It's a beautiful film set in the 1950s about a troubled dressmaker; I believe Anderson and Sheppard were commissioned to provide the men's tailoring for the film. It's a good 'un!
Hello Hugo and Sonya! I'm a great fan of your work! Enjoying every video and recently every letter of 'The Italian gentlemen'. Now I've perhaps a silly question, but considering my second suit to be grey, my first is a single breasted dark blue birds eye, 120's fabric, patch pockets, pleated and cuffed trousers, would you recommend a grey flannel or grey fresco (I live in Netherlands) looking for highest level of versatility? I work in the IT industry, so full-suit is very,very rare, and look to wear the jacket and trouser separate more frequent. Hope you could give some guidance and share your thought! Thank you in advance! Keep up the great work of inspiration. Yours sincerely, Luuk
Dear Luuk, as we lived in Amsterdam between 2012 and 2014, we know the climate there very well. Thus I think flannel (with a reasonable weight) would be more adapted to the Netherlands. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you so much for taking the time to respond! I heard you mention living in Amsterdam before, so nice! I hope you liked our country, although we may have less sartorial history compared to France, Italy or England. I appreciate the advice on the grey suit! My girlfriend and I will visit Paris in a couple of weeks. I'm looking very much forward to my first Scavini visit, and make sure to view their flannels! Thanks again Hugo!
Sir which designer tie are you wearing in Germany …it’s fabulous
What I want to know is what are the proper dimensions for a coat? How long should the sleeves be and how low should a jacket hang? Does he have any videos to answer these questions? I'm starting this journey getting a suit and need to know what to look for in a tailor as well.
Your videos are very informative and inspired! Living in Athens, Greece, having seasonal suits used to be a must a few decades ago, before all the cheap polyester off-the-rack chains invaded the market. Summers are scorching at 35-43°C, so one can only stand wearing cotton or linen, but winters can be a chilly 0-10°C, so wool is the best option. My father always tells me of having seasonal suits made by his tailor in the 70's and 80's, and he is appalled when people want a year-round suit 🙂 It's sad that the traditional craftsmanship of tailors here is getting lost, as they age and retire. In the 90's I remember an area where all the reputable tailors were located, but now they are almost gone ☹️
when do you go to Singapore, Bangkok, Hanoi etc. for another extension of your wardrobe?
Dear Peter, it's not on our planning for 2023 (so far...) but we'll explore this part of the world one day or another for sure. Cheers, Hugo
Please, if you guys have the time…
I would love for you and Sonya to do an episode on the “Les Compagnons du Devoir”.
You mentioned them some while back and they sound like an interesting organisation.
That would make an interesting video :-)
❤
We actually have one show planned on the subject with a young "compagnon" who just crafted a pair of bespoke shoes for me (as part of his apprenticeship). All my best to you! Hugo
Thoroughly enjoyed!
I'm so glad to read this Henry! All my best, Hugo
Mr Jacomet. I enjoy your videos a lot. Also I recently bought your book The Italian Gentleman. Amazing journey!
I am just wondering. Because I want to make a bespoke suit. But I am also a bit hesitant because of the issue of weight. When we reach a certain age unfortunately it can be hard to have a stable weight. I am afraid of paying a lot for a bespoke suit and maybe not be able to fit it after a few years. How to solve this issue? I am in the beginning of my journey and I only have a few MTM suits.
Thanks for your time.
Great video, and great ideas :).
Thanks Gauthier! Best, Hugo
Hugo, as always great video!
I live in a country where we don't have great bespoke suit tailors. They always place the buttons very close on a double breasted suit jacket as a result of which it ruins the look. Could you explain in one of your videos how far the buttons should be placed on a 4 button or 6 button double breasted suit jacket? Would really appreciate it.
Dear friend, it's just a matter of visual "common sense" and taste and not a matter of mathematics. A good tailor should know what to do in order to make a jacket look good. If not, move to another one. All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thanks for the reply Hugo!
@@khanskingdom8275 Pleasure
On the movie”Outfit”,actor was train by Campbell Carey,cut-tailor from Huntsman.Huntsman even sell pocket square inspired by the movie.Cheers;)
Thanks Maciej! Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo, dear Sonya, have you heard of or tried the Made-to-Measure Atelier "Cove & Co.", e.g. in Berlin or Munich?
Good morning Ram! No we didn't hear about them. Cheers, Hugo
18:42 now THATS a nice suit! seeing it only on the mannequine does not do it justice. 😱
Very nice. As always you are giving me some great ideas for my own sartorial journey. I'm interested in your thoughts, for I tried something new. I had a shirt made for me using bamboo fabric. For me, it feels great. Have you tried wearing bamboo? What are your thoughts?
No I never tried it. Maybe one day! Cheers, Hugo
A little bit off topic, i have to admit, sorry for that:
I am going to get my first semi bespoke suit. It will be a seersucker stripe suit.
What kind of shoes will match to this suit???
Subscribed, love your content.
Thank you very much Anthony! Welcome in our little (but growing) community. Warmly, Hugo
Thank you Hugo.
You are very welcome Arent. Hugo
What do you think of those safari jacket variants that have a fabric belt?
The version with a belt is even more dramatic! I like it a lot too. Cheers, Hugo
At some point it would be good to see your tie collection - or at least your favorites.
Also, do you ever wear ascots?
Loved this video and the new garments! I particularly like the odd jackets you showcase here, Hugo, because we're so used to seeing you in a suit that having odd jackets is something positively different.
To give my 2 cents on the black tie points you made - the idea is that, in my experience, black tie events in this day and age vary a lot depending on the particular event. You may have a very conservative black tie occasion - maybe some professional organization you're part of is organizing, or maybe you're wearing black tie at the opera or something like that - and in these instances I would probably stick to traditional black tie and keep the rule-breaking to a minimum.
But if you're going to a party where most people know each other, or is in a more relaxed atmosphere, maybe at someone's personal residence, or in a resort - i.e. a black tie event that is eiher more casual by the nature of the occasion or location, or more intimate in setting or in terms of your relationship to the other attendees - than you can break a lot of rules and just have a bit of fun. It's one of the few occasions where, I feel, you can actually dress purely to enjoy yourself and to experiment. Various dinner jacket fabrics and colors, different accessories and even odd vests might work. Belgian loafers can work too I think. I've done this personally and really enjoyed it, but I admit, it is on very rare occasions that I got the opportunity to do it.
Cheers!
Love the japanese & yellow suit
Thank you very much! Hugo
I'm glad this video is very inspiring..
Thank you so much! Best, Hugo
Ciao Hugo, is there a good mtm house in Napoli to have fun clothes made (where you don’t want to pay for bespoke). Also, I saw you write about sartoria cuomo, who would you choose between sartoria cuomo & pirozzi?
Hello Hugo, I was wondering if you have any advice on sartorial vintage shopping in Paris. Kirby Allison has recommended Hornets in London but I haven’t been able to find anything similar online in Paris. Thank you in advance!
Paris is not a sartorial vintage paradise but you have a few nice places for connoisseurs like, for example, chez Ammar (instagram.com/chez_ammar/). Hope it helps, Hugo
Thank you Hugo, I’m looking forward to commissioning a MTM suit in the near future because of your influence. I’m between Lanieri and Enzo custom, two firms you have covered. Between these two do you have a preference, I know of course you have an Enzo custom suit you are happy with. Thank you for your help!
@@renatograndmont6077 Where do you live Renato?
I am just a poor museum worker i can't afford suits nor wear them to work. So i Live my sartorial life through these videos.
Another enjoyable update on your sartorial story Hugo. Thank you Sonya for filming this latest episode. Love the red jacket you are wearing. I am not sure I could get away with the yellow jacket though ! Lovely story of the 50 tourists led by the flag waving guide dazzled by the man in yellow. Fantastic that you are sourcing clothing from new up and coming tailors as well as the “greats”.
Dear Alan, this red suit is a bespoke suit by the excellent Detlev Diehm (bespoke tailor in Munich Germany) with a great flannel from the bunch "Queen's Awardby Fox Brothers (unfortunately discontinued if I'm right). Thanks for your kind words of encouragement, Hugo
hi hugo, apa kabar ?! greetings from indonesia ! please advise us which fabric perform the best for a shirt with a very hot and humid climate ? its like 37 - 40°C and always above 90% of humidity here in indonesia, and cotton didn't perfom well during the day, thanks a lot for keep making educating content !
Fun fact Hugo, many of the costumes seen in The Outfit were done Huntsman Savile Row. Definitely why they were on point 😉
Indeed, I have been obsessed for some time with having a zafari jacket made.
My last doubts about the design would be:
1.- Linen or cotton?
2.- 3 or 4 buttons?
3.- Khaki or grey?
Can you suggest me something?
Of course: without lining and without structure, I live in a hot climate, Mexico, that's why I hope that the guacamole is worth the pain suffered XD
Buen provecho!
Dear Oscar, go for quality linen (cotton is way too thick and non breathable) and 4 buttons. The colour can be anything, depending on your taste. I hope it helps, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you very much Hugo
@@oscargustavoarcosruiz8793 You are very welcome
I have many made to measure suits. unfortunately the current trend is slim fit trousers. mine are straight leg, think 18 inch bottoms. which look fine but look v wide compared to slim fit any suggestions. thank u
My suggestion is: do what you like my friend. That's what MTM is all about! Cheers, Hugo
Wow, that’s was in response to my question “ when would part 6 come out?”
It is! Have a beautiful and blessed Sunday my friend, Hugo
Awesome content👍🏾
Hi hugo.... This from India with love to French🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷...
Do u have savile row suit....
Thank you very much Shukra! We loved visiting India and we have a lot of projects going on there. Stay tuned! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS hugo really you are like John trovolta....
One day or one I will gift you fully bespoke suits from India to you (France)...
We have genius tailor in Delhi...
Don't forget my name.... Shukra❤❤❤
you help me so much thank you !!
With great pleasure my friend! Hugo
The yellow suit is legendary has taken on a life of its own :) I like everything I've seen today thank you.
Thanks my friend! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I want to wear a pink linen suit in the summer, but not in Prague : )
@@fashionwiseguy 😂
What is that shirt you are wear Mr. Hugo?
Dear Abraham, it's a bespoke shirt by D'Avino Napoli (instagram.com/davinoshirtnapoli/). Cheers, Hugo
I really laughed when you told the story about your yellow suit in Prague :-) Thanks for the tip about the film 'The Outfit' too...I'll be checking (ahem) that out. Merci Hugo.
Tony
p.s I'm planning to holiday near Naples this summer....I might have to take a trip to the city to look (probably look only) at the Neapolitan suit style.
With pleasure Tony, The Outfit is a good film. Cheers, Hugo
Cool stuff, I'd really like a suit that is made to measure...
You were in India!? I so wish I could meet you and take you to the roads and towns less travelled. I am an Indian of course!!
PS - The wearing of suits is much less common in India except a few specific echelons. Did you wear suits everywhere here!?
Dear Parthiv, I did wear suits yes (and jackets) but I also tried (and fell in love) with the local formal/ceremony style. Very inspiring! Best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thanks a lot.
Was it warm or cool!!? And now that you visited India
Do you suggest wearing suits in the summer and should it be a certain kind of fabric, if any!!?
Much love, dearest Hugo!
@@parthivchakraborty8253 It was a good climate (around 20/25 Celsius) in Bengaluru. Of course you can wear suits or sport jackets in the summer with summer fabrics: tropical wool (around 200gr), blends of wool, silk, cotton but of course also the king of summer fabrics, which is linen. Cheers, Hugo
If I recall correctly, 400g+ for a suiting fabric in England was a norm back then (50s/60s). It’s quite interesting how the same weight is now considered a winter fabric 😬
Modern central heating and insulation, I guess. But I hear that the English are still lacking in that regard.
A Nehru jacket, we have truly entered the twilight zone. Hugo is wearing suits with no lapels at all!
hahaha 🤣 you're right 🤪! Cheers, Hugo
Try a vicuna jacket Hugo, it feels much better than cashmere.
Not exactly the same price dear James. All my best, Hugo
I don't have mannequins...but I bought a vintage chair and use it as a valet stand. I bought it in a small shop a few blocks from my apartment and walked down the street with people watching me carry this old fashioned chair down the sidewalk for several blocks
You have recently visited India... I am from India too. I would love to know about your experience in India... Please post a video.
It's in the works dear Charandeep! Best regards, Hugo
Wish Pirozzi and Ettore visited the states :(
That's a great idea indeed! Cheers, Hugo (Pinon Peluso travels to NYC 3 or 4 times a year by the way).
@@SARTORIALTALKS thanks for letting me know! I know there are slight differences in fit and style even between the Neapolitan tailors. While the old school Neapolitan tailors cuts slightly longer and roomier jackets (ciardi, Pirozzi) and the newer tailors tend to cut slimmer and shorter ones (solito), where would you say Peluso tends to prefer?
Bonjour Hugo et Sonya! My apologies in advance for the long comment, but as you say - you are French and we are exchanging ideas! I always enjoy your episodes, but in particular the segment about your white dinner jacket as an homage to Monsieur Bogart in Casablanca struck a chord with me. The finished jacket is sublime. I must agree that indeed our opportunities to attend formal events seem few and far between these days, even for us living in NYC. As you well know outside of the few sartorialists (which is hopefully growing), formal dress is seen as a chore rather than an occasion to celebrate in and of itself. Despite that prevalent sentiment, I decided a couple years back that I would wear black tie to any and all civilized events after 6pm. This certainly includes a ballet or an opera, but also simply dinner for two or an evening of jazz and cocktails. I find that it elevates any evening out and after all isn't that the point? My experience has been nothing but positive; we almost always get a prime table or a round of champagne just for our efforts and we often get questions along the lines of "what event are you coming from or going to?", to which I reply "This is it my friend!". With the inspiration from your channel and the community at-large, my hope is that one fine evening in the near future when we venture out for martinis, we will be met with a sea of dinner-jackets and gowns as if were the golden age again. One can dream, and I'm doing my best! Santé!
Indeed, indeed! We are in the same boat, friend. I, too wear black tie for elegant dinners out, ballroom dance events, and certain performing arts events. One caveat: I break out white tie for the opera and ballet, formal dances, and special galas or balls. I agree that my experience has been almost nothing but positive - I've even had patrons at restaurants cover my checks purely for my dress. Also, when going to formal afternoon tea, matinee operas and ballets, and on certain holidays like Easter, I wear full formal morning dress. I have three morning dress ensembles: a charcoal coat with striped trousers, a morning suit (minus the matching waistcoat), and a stroller. For the significant majority of other events, it's a suit and tie, or at least seperates and cravat.
That's a beautiful dream which may (one day) come true my friend. The sartorial movement is still discreet (euphemism) but is on the other hand, very well alive and growing everywhere. Santé mon ami ! Hugo
@@themoderndandy713 You are our hero my friend. On another subject, Sonya and I are always traveling in suits and ties, and we can't count the number of priority lines we were offered (even when flying economy on short hauls), the number of smiles, kindness and free champagne we receive on board (without talking about upgrades). Cheers, Hugo
I wish I could get my wife to want a suit. We have a local (made to measure) tailor that does suits for women but my wife thinks she's unworthy or something (I can't even claim it's a cultural thing as she's from Georgia like Sonya and she's definitely rocking those suits)
I think you should insist a little bit my friend, because it's such a joy to take this road of classic style as a couple. I wish you the best, Hugo
The light gray Cifonelli is superbe on you. Maybe one day you do a color analysis hopefully with Sonya. spring, summer, autumn, winter and different intensities. Not sure if Hugo is a Winter or a Summer???
Not sure I understand your last question my friend. Please clarify. Best! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Sorry Hugo for bothering you. It's the thing where you determine your skin undertone and then go for cool or warm colors to perfect your outfits. If you're cool and low contrast that's called a summer type. Just mentioned it because the light gray Dormeuil looks especially flattering on you.
@@chepibe2011 Ok I understand. It's a little bit too long here to explain all this. Do you have the book "Dressing the Man" by Alan Flusser? If yes all is explained in details in this book. Cheers, Hugo
2:43 So French!
42 minutes of pure talking with only one camera, one angle, and with 134k Subscribers and 11k views - that's incredible!
HAPPY INTERNATIONAL WOMEN'S DAY..CELEBRATE AND ENJOY!!! PEACE
Dear Hugo, good afternoon - I wanted to recommend a bespoke suit tailor here in suburban New Jersey, whom you may wish to visit if you are ever back on the East Coast. His name is Pasquale and he works out of Shaffer’s Tailors in Lawrenceville, New Jersey. I would link his website, but it seems to upset the bots and my comments get deleted. I hope you will look him up.
Dear Brian, we have to moderate the links on this thread otherwise it will become a mess with many people trying to advertise themselves at our expense. I will look them up of course. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I hadn’t really considered that it certainly makes sense. Thanks for your kind reply -
Vini, Vidi, oui oui
Pas vici ?
@@SARTORIALTALKS oui - pas vice. Oui oui seul
Get well soon.