2002-2010 Ford Explorer Front Lower Ball Joint Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ม.ค. 2018
- Today we show you how easy it can be to replace the lower ball joint in your Ford Explorer.
These are the Tools and Parts I recommend-
Lower Ball Joint-
amzn.to/2Bn8AQg
Hub Puller-
amzn.to/2G53DyX
Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2DZt4RY
Medium Strength Loctite-
amzn.to/2n2nSV8
Ball Joint Press Kit (covers most Fords)-
amzn.to/2DC6S2w
Ball Joint Remover-
amzn.to/2rt9dYJ
Caliper Hooks-
amzn.to/2BlIRr5
Snap Ring Pliers-
amzn.to/2Bkurb1
Torque Specs:
Upper Ball Joint Nut:
2002-2005- 41ft lbs
2006-2010- 41ft lbs
Lower Ball Joint Nut:
2002-2005- 129ft lbs
2006-2010- 111ft lbs
Tie Rod End Nut:
2002-2005- 52ft lbs
2006-2010- 76ft lbs
Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts:
2002-2005- 85ft lbs
2006-2010- 122ft lbs
CV Axle Nut:
2002-2005- 184ft lbs
2006-2010- 184ft lbs
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
Website:
www.bsgautomotive.com
Facebook:
/ bsgautomotive
Catch up with us on-
Facebook: / fordtechmakuloco
Twitter: / fordtechmak
Instagram: / fordtechmakuloco
My company TH-cam Channel- BSG Automotive providing repair advice on makes and models other than Ford: / bsgautomotive1
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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These are the Tools and Parts I recommend-
Lower Ball Joint-
amzn.to/2Bn8AQg
Hub Puller-
amzn.to/2G53DyX
Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2DZt4RY
Medium Strength Loctite-
amzn.to/2n2nSV8
Ball Joint Press Kit (covers most Fords)-
amzn.to/2DC6S2w
Ball Joint Remover-
amzn.to/2rt9dYJ
Caliper Hooks-
amzn.to/2BlIRr5
Snap Ring Pliers-
amzn.to/2Bkurb1 Torque Specs:
Upper Ball Joint Nut:
2002-2005- 41ft lbs
2006-2010- 41ft lbs
Lower Ball Joint Nut:
2002-2005- 129ft lbs
2006-2010- 111ft lbs
Tie Rod End Nut:
2002-2005- 52ft lbs
2006-2010- 76ft lbs
Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts:
2002-2005- 85ft lbs
2006-2010- 122ft lbs
CV Axle Nut:
2002-2005- 184ft lbs
2006-2010- 184ft lbs
FordTechMakuloco : for tightening/torquing the axel nut, is it acceptable to tighten the axel nut loosely, reinstall the remaining hardware, tire & rim (with out the center cap), lower the vehicle then torque the nut using the weight of the vehicle to hold the axel in place?
My 2 vehicles my 08 Explorer and my 88 as soon as any things is wrong with my 08 I go to you first for the fix , your the man
Where did you find that ball joint remover that you use in the video. I rented this one you recommended from Amazon but the do not fit in
The Ball Joint remover you linked does not work, doesn't even look like the one you used in the video. Can you find a better link for the remover you used in this project?
Thanks for this vid. The biggest issue is separating the low ball joint from the knuckle and your linked separator won’t work. Can you recommend another?
Dude,,, I owe you a huge apology. I watched one of your videos awhile back. I saw many mistakes in it. Come to find out I was wrong.
After watching you and other mechanics here on TH-cam, you are among The Top 3 best Mechanics I've seen so far. You have taught me so much. I can't say Thank you enough. You are awesome.
You are great at these videos. Concise, understandable narration, helpful tips. Nice job! Now if only this all goes as smooth for me as your video did! 😄
Just got an explorer 2004, and these videos are by far the BEST explanatory and easy to understand. Thank you for the info and time. I hope I can do it myself now.
Great production. Clear knowledgeable narration. Nice editing. Quick 27 min. Thanks.
Great tip using the sledge to pound out the ball joint. I bent a C frame press trying to remove a seized ball joint, so sometimes the "correct" tool is not the best way. When installing cotter pins, my preferred method is to bend one leg (as you did) over the stud but the other leg down through the notch in the castellated nut. This provides a more secure retention should the nut back off and is generally how they are installed on aircraft.
Best everything in this video, Camera angle, quality and even explanation of it. You earned a new fan and a follow
Nice work. Had to replace the knuckle on my 04 Mountaineer, it was a simple 3 beer job. 😁
Thanks for the video, it really helped me with my 2002 Ranger! There are a lot of hack job how-to's out there, but you do a good job. Thanks!
Love when new explorer videos come out. Especially 2006-2010
You make this a very interesting teaching experience, I wanna thank you very much well well done.
GREAT VIDEO ! VERY CLEAR AND CONCISE WITH GREAT CAMERA ANGLES.
Thanks for the video, and the torque information all in 1 place! I thought I had to rewatch the video again, but you thought of that too!
nice to see you back at work
O I have been working non stop no time for editing but I am getting back into the swing of things and getting these old videos out.
Always enjoy you sharing your wealth and knowledge 👍on Ford vehicles.
These ball joints have kept me busy over the years. Done hundreds haha.
Just picked up a used 2008 Sport trac that had some creaking & squeaking in the drivers side front wheel area. Definitely suspension related. I watched this video thinking it was likely worn parts because the truck has 190k miles & was so confident I could fix it I torn it all apart & just waiting on parts! Thanks for the video!
I actually like doing explorer lower ball joints. I like any job that I get to hit something with a hammer, my usual caveman/german style. Great video, always a pleasure.
Yeah these are cake.
that sweeeet antique BJ remover you have is far beefier than anything available new now. I kept pausing the video to try and read the numbers. Semper Fi brother
Nice job, very informative!
Good job. I like doing ball other than Volvos.
Thanks for the video.
Great educational vid as always. Thanks
Great job This is probably the very best clear and concise video I have seen on this subject .Very good camera work also.I really like that you give all the torque specs, So very many others do not. This video is like a one stop shopping for all you needs.
You are a great teacher.
Great Video Bro’ Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great video 👍👍
Very very informative...thank you...good video!!!
Awesome video that will definitely help me replace some components on my Explorer. I do have a question, isn't the upper bottom sway bar bushing installed upside down? The part with the washer should be facing down and not up towards the sway bar.
Great instructional video
You made this look easy. I liked the stout ball joint removal press. The one you list--sure it can pop it out of the aluminum bore ok? Great video--keep 'em coming
Well done Brian. Always plenty of great tips and tricks.
Excellent video
I noticed this only because I recently changed my sway bar end links, but it looks like the bushing on top of the sleeve is oriented in the wrong direction? These look like the Moog problem solver end links if I'm correct.
Good work brother God bles you.thank you
Thank you so much for the content it’s help me out so much thanks bro
I have to do this on my daughters 02 4x4. I have been debating on whether the bushings for the A-arm etc need replaced too.
Great video! What about when the lower ball joint stud starts spinning with the nut??? Removal tips?
Awesome help!
Eres chingon your the best brother congratulations nice video
Thanks very professional and helpfull
What a good strut replacement
Do you have any videos on some of the newer focuses? If run across one do a video please. I love my new 2017 focus!
Always thorough and informative. Great job!
Good job 👍🔨🔧👍🔧
Would love to see or even just hear about ford rangers, 4.0L motors maintenance and issues.
Great tutorial thanks. I just did that on my 2005 4x4. Have the driveshaft pulled driver's side. Do I have to remove the sway bar link to replace the driveshaft? Too wide to pull through.
Tnks for your videos they are helping me a lot since 2017.....One Question.....thats are new Shocks and how good are they???? I install 4 cheap ones and I feel every path holl on the road.....so I want it to change it but don't want spend again on trash......can u tell me if they are very smooth or dont feel the hills on the road.....whats the price around it.?
Great video. I could watch you work all day! Haha. I appreciate the passing along the little tidbits like how to install a cotter pin and using the taper to hold the upper ball joint in place. I recommend you to lots of diy mechanics for your complete and easy to follow videos. Thank you.
Great vids, Sir!
Hey! I follow every video you post regardless of subject... They are really great videos and I learn alot of things I don't need to learn really! :) Just one question what camera and software do you use for making these videos? Or recommend? I have Apple Imac
Excellent explanations of all the steps. Great communication skills as well as the suggestions to deal with the tasks at hand. Thank you very much for sharing this video with us.
Thank you for a great instructional video. Its alwaysa pleasure to watch your professional presentations, learn a lot from you! How is your business going?
nooooooooooo
Your tutorials are the best and include the torque specs! Thank you for posting these videos.
Good job buddy looks like they're rebuilding that old thing one piece at a time lol
great vidio
Question, I was watching one of your older videos on throttle body cleaning and the idle reset process. I recently had my alternator changed to a internally regulated version that doesn't use the PCM in my Ford Five Hundred. Now my car runs fine in neutral, park, and going down the road but before the swap when I would come to a stop it would drop to say 1000 rpm then down to 600. Now from 30 mph and down off throttle it's dropping down to like 400 till I stop then it lightly surges up to 600 rpm from there. Also, sometimes it will stall if I'm say pulling into a parking spot and I have the wheel cranked. Does the PCM require the voltage reading from the alternator to set it self correctly or does it sound like I just need to clean the throttle body and MAF and do the relearn? Any help would be fantastic and thanks ahead of time!
ok i got an 08 with rear wheel drive....would it be possible doing this to simply loosen the lower ball joint nut, free up the tie rod end and pry the ball joint free of the knuckle without removing it from the upper ball joint. i need to do this and would like to avoid removing the knuckle as a shortcut if i can.
Thank you man I love your videos they are truly informative I learn things that I thought I knew but now I can do better with the right tools. Still haven't done that timing job on my son's 5-4-3 valve. He bought a second vehicle and we have it parked but thank you for all your videos that you put up I feel truly confident nothing tackle that job when the time comes.
hey Makuloco, I cant find Moog brand ball joints for my 05 Explorer Sport Trac....what do u soggest?
Excellent video as always thanks for the production
Not related to this video however it appears that one of the new stabilizer link bushings is upside down?
Congrats on the new shop!
Sure is good catch!
Great video as Always. Sir I have a question can the ball joints be pressed out on a 2009 Ford Mustang v6 base models or any of the models as far as that goes?? I need to replace mine and after doing a little research I’m reading that they are not and that they are?? So who else to come to besides the Ford man him self!! Thank you sir!!👍💯
Great video, but I am struggling to move the driveshaft aside. It is between the shock and the swaybar link, and I can't push it far enough to clear. Do I need to remove the sway bar link? Thanks
My 2008 Explorer Sport Trac has 153k miles and after recently replacing the front bearing hubs I've decided to replace tie rod ends, ball joints and upper control arms. I've got the parts and am reviewing videos in prep for the work. Question: Do you have a preference for sequencing the three jobs? I'm thinking tie rod ends, ball joints, upper control arms in that order. Would like to know your thoughts. Thanks.
"Like so" Great job
I bought new upper balls joints for my 02 explorer. Would you say it's possible to just replace those and not the lower ball joints? The uppers look the worst, plus don't want to have to do an alignment.
Good video, but is that a two wheel drive with a four wheel hub, or is something missing?
I have searched your channel for the timing chain replacement on 4.0. U have gobs of great info on the V-8’s. Am I missing the videos on the 4.0?
No they are not out yet.
Great video..... why are some of nuts SAE and not all metric?
Are the lincoln ls front and rear upper ball joints replaceable without buying the entire control arm? Just trying to get an honest answer before ordering parts. Thanks in advance.
Greetings sir, you forgot to link that impact wrench you used. The way it performed I can say its a beast..May I know where to order that sir? thank You and more power to you and your channel. Liked and Subscribed...
The press used to separate the lower ball off the spindle, where can I get, or the size like a 34mm. Will that work.? Thanks Man.
Great video on the lowers. What's your recommendation for uppers? Replace ball joints or the whole upper arms with ball joints installed?
I would save the time and just get whole arm. It’s super easy. Other than finding a 18 mm.
Need HELP Please. I own a 2006 6.0 had it since it was new. 124,000 miles on it and it has been well maintained. the other day I had to get on it and it did fine but after I backed out of it it started dropping rpms and bucking like a gas engine about to run out of gas. white smoke with a puff of black now and then. then it went back to normal. a few days later I got on it and it did the same thing this time with the check engine light on?? light went out 2 days later. now it did it without getting on it??? What do you think would cause this. Thank You.... Clyde
Can I do one at a time such as, do the bottom by leaving the top still in and dangle the whole spindle and pop the bottom ball joint out and reinstall new, then do the opposite?
Brian. Thank u for all your great videos!! I have an 02 4.0 Explorer. Would u pull the trans to get to the right rear timing chain cassette? It seems a lot easier than pulling the engine. How would u do it? Sorry to keep bugging u about no videos from u on that subject.
Easier? Maybe but when you are timing the engine you are going to wish it was out on a stand.
Should you grease this thing after install or is good for a while?
Another Great Video!! Thx!! That's a nice looking Air Hammer. That booger got some power. I'm betting you can't wait for the lift to get installed. What size was the Spindle to upper Ball Joint nut -- 15/16's?
Oh the lift is installed and running this is just an old video. The upper nut was an 18mm
help me out but i got stuck because the tool used to separator the ball joint is different tool you recommend from video
Thank you
sway bar link bushing is installed incorrectly
Those moog problem solvers are awesome. Ive had numerous other balljoints with boots so big they tear after a a few hundred miles and the balljoint just goes bad again
Awesome video I just watched to get an idea of the ford ball joint setup. I'm doing all 4 ball joints on my 05 ford Explorer tom on new Years. Good info! I would have wacked the SH@T out of the knuckles til it came loose. Good to know not to do that on the Alum! Cheers
When your hammering on the nuts of the tie rod and upper ball joint is there a chance you are damaging the threads enough to create a significant additional run down torque on assembly that would ultimately effect the design load required on the taper fit to the spindle?
No you flush out the nut so the strike is even, it only takes a few taps. Suspension parts are very strong, think about all the stresses they go through daily. A few taps of the hammer is like a love tap.
I just did mine today , I had to make another piece for the ball joints tool, when I finally heard the popping sound when tightening the clamp ,I look at it and saw the snap ring groove and thought alright it's in, put everything back together and tourqed everything, I looked underneath and noticed it had a small gap , not quite seated all the way, I'm gonna leave it ,the snap ring is in . Long story short, look underneath and see if it is seated is good advice
I guess we in Texas take the salt-free roads for granted, cause that under carrige looks SCARY! 🤤
I guess thats what the "blue wrench" is for. 😏
That one looks great, you should see underneath my Canadian exploder 😬
@@michaelchristopher8266 Right? Cant tell where the rust begins and ends. Neighbour just dropped his off and it left 10 lbs of rust on the ground
Joe thankfully Ford put those plastic panels to cover up all the rust, I didn’t even notice it all when I bought it. At one point a 6x6inch piece of body rust was hanging from under mine, eventually that fell off. I luckily just got rid of my explorer though so I don’t need to worry about that rust bucket no more.
You should see our bed sides :D
I have found that freezing the ball joint and taking a Propane torch and heating the control arm, JUST a little bit, the ball joint slips right in, then I put the grease fitting on then slap some ice on it control arm.
I have a small deep that that I use for freezing parts.
Nah I would rather press it in properly.
Should I preload the suspension before I tourqe down.
Thanks. Just did all the ball joints on my 04 explorer that just hit 200k. For being in new england for a 14 year old truck, these explorers have very minimal rust. Cant believe it. Chevys up north just rust so fast. That's the hard truth you chevy people.
What is the model number of your ball joint separator tool
on a 02 mercury mountaineer awd does the sway bar links need to be removed in order to replace both lower or upper ball joints... also Im seeing where you can buy the upper ball joints separate without the arm
my question with the upper ball joint separate is normally most upper ball joints are not pressable
Great job!
What brand is that ball joint remover? The one list on Amazon doesn't match.
Cheers
lol. Yeah the stupid silver one doesnt work. At all. I borrowed it from Autozone - it didnt fit. I cut off the bottom part of the ball joint bolt and it still didnt fit well enough.
thanks
hey man, how do you like those new mac impacts? stubby
I actually like it allot, it's very zippy almost 1k rpm higher than the aircat I have.
Great video. What was the brand name of the tool used to separate the ball joints. thanks
Miller
+FordTechMakuloco Thank you, could you please let me know where I could purchase this tool.
Thank you for posting this. Just finished installing my ball joints by following your instructions. Worked like a charm. Do I need to do an alignment? I only did the upper and lower ball joints.
What is the name or manufacturer or even item number if you have it of the tool you used to press the ball joint stud from the housing around 11 minutes. Please I’ve looked everywhere! I’d owe you big time lol!
I love having a lift lol so nice definitely gotta decide if it was worth 12 months of $200 payments
Is it usually unnecessary to replace the upper ball joint?
That MAC gun looks just like the mini Proto I have been lusting after.
Anyways... Even though I prefer Japanese cars, I still like wacthing you work. Wish all techs could be that honest about thier work.
Love the new shop too!
Edit.. Looks like the MAC is a rebrand from Proto? 445ft lbs from a 3/8 isnt too shabby. 🤔
I've tried just about every 3/8" stubby there is and the Astro Pneumatic Onyx is the best one I've tried. I've been using it for awhile now and love it. It's pretty tough to beat at 450 ft/lb for under a hundred bucks.